Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => 'Roll of Honour' - Best Ride Reports => Topic started by: Metaljockey on September 23, 2007, 09:59:46 am

Title: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 23, 2007, 09:59:46 am
(Hierdie report is geskryf met internasionale lesers in gedagte. So as dinge hier en daar 'n bietjie vanselfsprekend lyk, relax, dis nie dat ek dink jy is dom nie.)

Entire Report in PDF Format Can be Downloaded Here - Click Here (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/pdfreports/angola_metaljockey.pdf)




This trip was going to be different.

I for one, have never updated my will before any other trip. And I wasn't alone. Out of the five of us that were going, three updated their wills and/or life insurance policies in the weeks before we left.

Where were we going?

Angola

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198694437-L.jpg)


Ok, so it may have been a bit of an over reaction, but I had a couple of concerns about this trip. Most of these concerns turned out to be baseless. Some turned out to be valid.

I'll get back to these as the trip unfolds.



For those who are unfamiliar with Angola, a short intro:

Angola was under Portuguese colonial rule since the 1500's. Around 1961 a violent uprising of the indigenous people signalled the start of a civil war that finally ended in 2002. Yes, only 5 years ago.

In 1975 when the Portuguese granted Angola independence, three new factions called the MPLA, FNLA and Unita, received military backing from Cuba (Soviet puppet) and South Africa (American puppet) respectively. All combatants planted landmines, some with maps, some without and many individual mines that did not form part of a mine field.

In 1994, during a lull in the fighting, studies were conducted on the landmine situation and estimates of between 1 and 2 million mines were mentioned. That is 1-2 mines per person in the country! Since then there has been an extensive ongoing clearing operation run by many different groups. The clearing of mines is clearly having a positive impact. In 2003 there were 270 reported new mine casualties, in 2004 191 and 2005 only 96.

Today the country is trying to stand up from the ashes. Fourty years of war leaves a lot of ashes.

So much for the history lesson, back to the trip.



The merry band of adventurers;

Michnus

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198522071-M-1.jpg)


Hennie

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198544438-M.jpg)


Nardus

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198743836-M.jpg)


Fred

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198544534-M.jpg)


and finally me

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/199141061-M.jpg)





Not much to say about the 3500km trip to Ruacana in Namibia except that we did manage to get some shuteye.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198514661-L.jpg)



Against all expectation we find that Ruacana boasts a very nice new lodge with accomodating staff that are quite happy to let us leave the bus & trailer in their grounds for 2 weeks.

We load up and finally throttles get twisted and the trip starts.

First up is the border post. And for the first time (for me), at a Namibian border post, all the engine and chassis numbers are checked. Minutely and in detail. Which then also teaches Nardus that his 950's chassis number differs from his registration papers with one digit. Almost stops his trip right there. But sanity prevails and we finally mosey on over to the Angolan Customs and Immigration.

Now here's an interesting bit. You can only visit Angola by invitation. In order to get a 30 day visa you have to have a written invitation from a resident who will be responsible for you while you are there. So they are not really big on tourism.

Also stories abound about the border guards making travellers unpack all they carry down to the last tin, unless you offer a bribe. We had none of that. Although we know no Portuguese and they cannot speak English and all the forms are in Portuguese only, we had no trouble at all and found the customs and immigration people very friendly and helpful.

With high spirits we hit the road for all of about 60m before we get sidetracked for a beer break. Excellent, I like this country already.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198548201-L.jpg)


In short thrift we are joined by the border police guy and the customs guy from the Namibian side? None of this officious officialdom shit over here. I like it.


Ruacana is a minor border post and it shows. When we hit the road again it's off into the bush on an enjoyable track. One rest stop later and we pull into Chitado. Chitado is one of those towns that were shot to shit and not yet rebuilt.

Some images of the town.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198485756-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198500975-L.jpg)


We manage to find the local pub. Check out the stock.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198549073-L.jpg)



The first day of our trip and Fred is already missing his family.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198548625-L.jpg)



An old timer getting comfortable. It was bloody hot, even the walls of the building was hot to the touch.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198548864-L.jpg)



A not-so-old-timer getting comfortable. Notice the red ochre and fat mix that is rubbed into the skin. This is the Himba tribe. They are nomads that live in Northern Namibia (Kaokoland) and South Western Angola.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198548388-L.jpg)



We socialize here for quite some time and the locals enjoy having their pictures taken. The digital camera again shows it's myriad of benefits. This woman belongs to the Herero. They share a language and distribution area with the Himba, but the two tribes do not inter-marry.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198561902-L.jpg)



We reluctantly take our leave and the road turns into a lovely fast red strip with bouncies.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198563023-L.jpg)


This lasts until we leave the main road and turn west. Almost immediately the twin track gets sandy and twisty and Fred gets his first opportunity to lie down with his bike. This was to turn into a common theme. A little later in the afternoon Nardus got his chance, Hennie early the next morning and myself shortly thereafter. Michnus made it to day three before he had his first lie down. All of us continued to get regular opportunities on a daily basis.

A short rest stop amongst some Baobabs.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198563869-L.jpg)



As I mentioned, it's nice and hot and a bit of shade is welcome.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198501416-L.jpg)



We start hitting river beds and Nardus gets some excercise.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198549843-L.jpg)



Michnus on the throttle.
(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198564363-L.jpg)



Nardus piloting his leisure liner.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198516373-L.jpg)



We decide to make camp under a huge tree in the river bed and it's good to get the kit off. Still hot as hell though. It only cooled down just before dawn the next morning.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198501717-L.jpg)



Sunset on day one and no body or bike is broken. Yeah baby, life is good and it's gonna get better.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198501911-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Scribble on September 23, 2007, 10:09:33 am
wow looks so good wheres the rest????
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on September 23, 2007, 10:19:51 am
WOW!  Gooi MJ, Gooi! 
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on September 23, 2007, 10:40:12 am
Jis jy het a paar blilliant shots hier ... dankie dat jy dit met ons deel.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on September 23, 2007, 10:58:55 am
Phew... how stunning!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: surf on September 23, 2007, 11:03:43 am
Shite, what a stunning trip :o

eendag as ek groot is, wil ek ook da ga ry... ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Malice on September 23, 2007, 01:01:37 pm
Well written MJ! You guys rock, hats off to everyone! It would be great if you could give us a bit of info regarding the logistics of a trip like this. How long you had planned it etc.


One day.........one day. ::)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: letsgofishing on September 23, 2007, 01:10:41 pm
Looks absolutely stunning!!! More pics please!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Extreme Velcro on September 23, 2007, 02:15:41 pm
Brilliant stuff thank you - as someone who can never go too far because of my wonderful commitments, reports like these make my heart sing..........
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Geoff on September 23, 2007, 02:30:29 pm
More  ! More ! Pretty pleease .

Michnus why you on the wife's bike ,Did yours have a flat wheel ?  ;D ;D ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JourneyMan on September 23, 2007, 02:34:25 pm
Great! Great!

More!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 23, 2007, 05:07:36 pm
Jis jy het a paar blilliant shots hier ... dankie dat jy dit met ons deel.

Al 5 van ons het foto's geneem. Dit word nog beter vorentoe.
Well written MJ! You guys rock, hats off to everyone! It would be great if you could give us a bit of info regarding the logistics of a trip like this. How long you had planned it etc.


One day.........one day. ::)

The planning was quite difficult because of the lack of information. The next post will give more detail on the logistics.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 23, 2007, 05:12:27 pm
The next day were' up and at it early. It only starts feeling like a trip to me if the day starts with me waking up on the ground somewhere next to my bike.

The day starts out with no plan to reach any place in particular. Let me explain. The route we are planning on following is the source of most of my concerns. It goes through a wilderness area where we need to be self sufficient in all respects. 

Depending on terrain, we expect it to take 4 - 6 days to reach civilisation again. This presents 4 problems.

1 - Fuel. We would have to carry a full tank plus an extra 30l each. That's a shitload of weight and space. One solution would be to take a backup vehicle. None of us were keen on that idea though. It is after all a BIKE trip.

2 - Food. We would have to carry enough food for a week. This is not too difficult. Generally one can survive comfortably on a tin of canned food a day. So each rider just have to carry 6 or so tins of bully beef or chilli sardines (for the gourmets) or whatever tickles your fancy.

3 - Water. This is a bigger problem. Riding would require you to have at least 4-5 litres of water per person per day. There's just no way you can carry that on top of the fuel load. And fuel gets preference.                And when you are short of water things can turn very unpleasant.
What we do is each rider carries 5l of water. That's enough for one day or maybe even two if the riding is easy. Our route will take us to the mouth of the Kunene river where we can stock up on river water. We figure we could reach the river mouth (Foz do Cunene) at the end of day two. (We were wrong of course, it took us 4 days.)

4 - Medical emergency. There is always a possibility of getting hurt on any trip. Here however,  help was going to be far far away. We were able to obtain a couple of ampules of Pethadine for that crushed-pelvis-with-bones-protruding situation. We also hoped to be able to secure a satelite phone, this however didn't happen. So if you were not able to ride out, you were going to have to wait at least 5 days for someone to come get you.
I don't deal well with pain.

So that's why we aren't going anywhere in particular. With all the beer drinking yesterday we know we have no chance of reaching Foz do Cunene by nightfall. So we are just going to ride to where we get to.

The morning ride is excellent, varying from splendid sightseeing to some more challenging stuff.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198488903-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198517249-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198566134-L.jpg)



We meet some locals along the way.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198487503-L.jpg)


They have good looking cattle.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198566745-L.jpg)



But the people are even better looking. This girl is bringing the cattle to drink.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198566249-L.jpg)



We take a break here and try the water but our stomachs would never make it.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198567069-L.jpg)



We have some lively discussion regarding where we are going to sleep. There is a road (I use the term loosely) heading down to the Kunene river. There is also a track leading from the river which intersects the road we are on some ways further. It would be good to sleep at the river and it wouldn't hurt filling up our water supplies.
On the other hand, the track leading from the river has this warning on it.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/199215453-L.jpg)


If we can follow this track we won't have a problem. If we can't and have to backtrack, we may run out of fuel before we get to Tombwa (civilisation).

Why do we believe that we may be able to follow this track?

Next installment will explain all.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: tok-tokkie on September 23, 2007, 05:49:47 pm
I really admire what you guys do.
I also really like reading your reports MJ - you write bloody well.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on September 23, 2007, 05:50:43 pm
Excellent!

You make our mouths water for more!  Brilliant pics.  I like the one with girl and ox.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 23, 2007, 05:58:10 pm
I really admire what you guys do.
I also really like reading your reports MJ - you write bloody well.

It took the total time of 30sec for us all to vote MJ as the report writer for the trip :D

Uil there's many great pics, it's very difficult to pic the really good ones, maybe at the end we can post some pics that did not make the cut ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Raider on September 23, 2007, 06:00:05 pm
Great report and pictures!

Thanks for sharing.

:hello2:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: shark_za on September 23, 2007, 06:16:12 pm
wowaweewaa !

I cant wait for the next bit!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: DaCat on September 23, 2007, 08:43:37 pm
Wow, amazing trip. I look forward to reading the rest...

Great pics!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on September 23, 2007, 09:01:34 pm
Jeeez... just checked out all the pics via ADVrider.... excellent ... love the rest of the pics.... what a great trip!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: keithk on September 23, 2007, 10:03:14 pm
Now this is the kind of adventure I would love to do, absolutely fantastic please finish report , had a look at the rest of the pics on advrider really amazing. Great Stuff. ^-^
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 23, 2007, 11:30:59 pm
Uil there's many great pics, it's very difficult to pic the really good ones, maybe at the end we can post some pics that did not make the cut ;)

Michnus, feel free to post pics relating to the days covered allready. Or if you feel the need to add what I left out.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on September 24, 2007, 08:47:03 am
Awesome stuff, this is real adventure....

Keep it coming

 O0
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grunt on September 24, 2007, 09:28:38 am
you guys set an awesome standard for adv riding, photography, and story telling on this forum.

Stunning stuff.

Well done

M-J did you take your gs on this trip?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 24, 2007, 10:09:29 am
On that the trip was done with 3 Dakars MJ with his 640 and Nardus on the Cruise liner

MJ starts the next generation early, very sad but she could'nt get a long range tank so we had to leave her this time.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199165660-M.jpg)

The three Dakars was on the trailer, the KTM's hide in the bus.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195944025-M.jpg)

Preperation morning, you can't believe the amount of stuff you still need to leave just to make sure you don't overload. In the end we really travelled lean, nothing went with that was'nt used.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199168296-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199168538-M.jpg)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on September 24, 2007, 10:19:14 am
How did Nardus' newly improved suspension perform? ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 24, 2007, 10:30:41 am
How did Nardus' newly improved suspension perform? ;)

HAHAHAA like MJ said the cruise liner ran like a limo, you will see on the stuff we did Nardus was in heaven because of his new suspension,.................and had some hell at some stage :D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on September 24, 2007, 10:42:05 am
How did Nardus' newly improved suspension perform? ;)

HAHAHAA like MJ said the cruise liner ran like a limo, you will see on the stuff we did Nardus was in heaven because of his new suspension,.................and had some hell at some stage :D

Happiness!  Hope the hell he had wasn't from the suspension?

Julle moet nou stop om ons so uit te honger vir nog, kom nou MJ, post boet, post!

Nardus het in George my al so lus gemaak vir hierdie trip!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Groenie on September 24, 2007, 11:19:52 am
Kom nou ouens, die res van die storie asseblief!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 24, 2007, 03:04:36 pm
All right, while MJ work on the next chapter of the adventure, here's some pics and some info on the first day going into the Angola.

The Angolan border post, small and proficient, and they write everything out, no computers, I felt really embarrassed, they got this fancy script way of writing, I can barely read my own handwriting, it took them quite sometime to get the invoice finalised.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199750397-M.jpg)

 Chitado.........will be remembered for cold beers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199170862-M.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195944944-M.jpg)

For the city people that might not understand the dynamics in small places. :D

Behind the mall on your left, the cluster home complex. It might not look like that but there's a school in Chitado, and for the rest it's all cattle farmers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195945244-M.jpg)

We can start a seperate thread focusing solely on the people in Angola, friendly, always helpfull.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199174261-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199174557-M.jpg)

Waiting for Nardus and Hennie with the GPS's to tell us where to go. And it's bloody hot, I mean bloody hot, and bone dry!!

It's a intersection, if you don't believe me go look for yourself.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199176898-M.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199170805-M.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199173181-M.jpg)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: sidetrack on September 24, 2007, 07:13:06 pm
What a great trip ! Some awesome tracks.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on September 24, 2007, 09:47:35 pm
Michnus... lekker tannie wat aan jou been vat of hoe?  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bmad on September 25, 2007, 07:49:33 am
Very nice as always, we wait in anticipation for the next installments  O0
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on September 25, 2007, 09:09:16 am
mudder farker....waht an awesome report...keep it coming.. working today is gonna be difficult i see...

more... need more...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KiLRoy on September 25, 2007, 10:15:08 am
As always, a MJ classic - awesome MJ and friends


H
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on September 25, 2007, 10:44:29 am
 :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ballies on September 25, 2007, 10:58:09 am
one trip on my list !! Awesome photos  ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on September 25, 2007, 11:01:22 am
Thanks for sharing your adventure, please keep it coming :hello2: :hello2: :hello2:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 25, 2007, 11:13:08 am
The maps we use are Tracks for Africa http://www.tracks4africa.com (http://"http://www.tracks4africa.com")

The maps are continually being updated and we had the newest version which shows a track skirting the dead end.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/200119465-M.jpg)

Nardus was also able to confirm that someone had driven that route 2 months ago. We agree that if we can see any tracks left by a vehicle we will follow this route.
The 'not recommended' and 'dangerous road' warnings of course makes it irresistable.


We are delighted to find a borehole and our water problems are solved for another day.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198488166-L.jpg)



We are heading for the Kunene and there it is. That green strip. The mountains behind is in Namibia.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198517985-L.jpg)



When we get close to the river we find a police post and a settlement. We have been told many stories of corrupt police. That you have to report to the police in every town. That they ask for copies of all passports and other papers. People even take documents with with lists of the travellers and their passport no's, explaining the purpose of their trip in portuguese etc.

As we stop in front of the police post, Hennie's approach is to make the universal down-the-hatch sign and shout "CERVEJA" at the approaching policeman. Less than a minute later and we are downing beers under a tree with the police.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198567510-L.jpg)


Before long we are joined by more policemen including the commanding officer or 'Sergeante Primero'. More people join and things get festive. We learn that the settlement is called Monte Negro.

This could well become the favourite pic that I have of my bike.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198567960-L.jpg)



Nardus takes on one of the policemen in an arm wrestling competition. For the first time since I've known him he loses. I don't think the policeman was even aware that Nardus was hanging on his arm, he was just posing for the camera.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198550796-L.jpg)



We are later shown the gym that produces such unbridled power.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198568796-L.jpg)


We have such a good time that we decide to stay over with the good people of Monte Negro. They are delighted and shows us a prime spot under a tree on the beach. We only did 60 km for the day but wtf, you gotta go with what feels good.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198550978-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198551479-L.jpg)



As soon as we get to the river we go for a swim.
The Kunene has crocodiles. Plenty crocodiles.
Have a look at the thorns packed on the bank in the foreground. That is to discourage crocs from using this beach as a hang out. As soon as the locals see that we are going to swim regardless of their warnings, they join us. Their instructions appear to be: swim close to the bank and swim as noisily as possible. The water is just fantastic.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198489910-L.jpg)



For most of the day my bike has been acting up. Now this is an issue for me. I have never done a trip such as this, where the bike's reliability is paramount, with any bike but BMWs. This would be my first on the 640. I have built my confidence in the bike by logging 11 000 problem free kms on it on other trips where recovery was not an issue. In fact, beforehand I was more concerned about Hennie's Dakar which is 'well used' to put it mildly. His response was that he was still going to tow a KTM in Angola.

Now my bike is bogging and stalling all over and blowing big black clouds of smoke. Bastard. So as soon as we are cooled down I start stripping the bike. The smell of the smoke tells me it is not rings but more likely just a too rich mixture. It turns out to be exactly right. The choke cable enters the carb in a metal bend which had pulled out of it's housing and is keeping the choke open.

It's always a good feeling to fix an ailing bike on the fly. Happy happy.
I also put some efffort into resurrecting my faith in my bike and we are partners again.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198502881-L.jpg)



The good people of Monte Negro even do room service and we get some refreshments. We are also offered a goat, but myself, Hennie and Nardus have some residual issues with goat meat from a previous trip.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198503148-L.jpg)



We are joined by the community and this unplanned stop in Monte Negro turns into the highlight of the trip.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198490412-L.jpg)



Because Monte Negro  lies at the end of a dead end 4x4 track, visitors must be scarce and the locals are even more interested in us than we are in them. We spend the afternoon having the best time with them.

This will probably be Hennie's favourite pic of his bike.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198519506-L.jpg)



Michnus turns out to be extraordinarily popular. The women can't keep their eyes of him.
Lovely family portrait. The little one has Michnus's mouth, don't you think?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198698678-L.jpg)



The men don't do the fat and ochre thing that the women do. Also where everything the women wear is hand made, the men accessorise with western clothes. Still very decorative.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198526260-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198524279-L.jpg)



Mike, Sergeante Primero.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198519183-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198567771-L.jpg)



Simone; Nardus and I joined him and friends that night in his hut for a party. They very kindly played us the only tape they had with Western music. The radio runs off batteries that are charged by a solar panel. We actually found the Herero songs quite a bit better than 'our' tape.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198525908-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198520310-L.jpg)



You just cannot take a bad picture of this girl.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198567853-L.jpg)



Have a close look at the hand made decoration/jewellery. Carved lead and a variety of other utility parts. The shell is a prized possession. It has to be fetched from the ocean which means crossing the Namib desert. Later on we will cross it and you will see that it is a big deal.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198523318-L.jpg)



Any idea how heavy that neck ornament is?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198525697-L.jpg)



Later the afternoon the goats come down to drink and is chased away with rocks. On enquiry it appears that they cannot drink here because of the crocodile threat! But swimming is OK?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198526071-L.jpg)



The beers do their job and I take a local for a spin up the riverbed and almost have my nipples torn off.
Surprisingly, when we return there are no more takers.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198504322-L.jpg)



My good friend Casul on the right. Must be a monkey in the tree.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198519003-L.jpg)



Yep, it is.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198518827-L.jpg)



Here's something that intrigues me. Speaking for myself, I would have thought that after decades of war one would sort of have had enough. Yet, everywhere we saw camouflage and military apparel being used as fashion items. I think about that often still.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/200159615-L.jpg)



The locals assure us there is fish. Hennie conclusively proves them wrong.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198527003-L.jpg)



And to end a perfect day, a perfect sunset on the river.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198526590-L.jpg)



Oh yes, check out our fridge.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198527180-L.jpg)



Monte Negro blew our minds. Fantastically friendly people, we made many friends. What makes it so exceptional is that we had no way to communicate as we did not understand a word of Portuguese (except 'cerveja') or Herero. They did not understand a word of English or Afrikaans. Yet we spent hours and hours being thoroughly entertained. This trend was to repeat itself every where we stopped.

Monte Negro will always be special to me though.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on September 25, 2007, 11:24:48 am
Bliksim.. if our police looked like that.. i am sure crime would be minimal...

this report just keeps getting better.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on September 25, 2007, 11:39:35 am
Awesome stuff, keep it coming.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: topbox on September 25, 2007, 12:46:24 pm
really hanging me out to dry !
then you post and i remember why i keep checking for an update.



For those that havent read the goat story.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134368
chosen as the favorite ride report by many
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: growweblaar on September 25, 2007, 12:49:51 pm
An epic trip!

I see a few additions to the Wild Dog banner pics coming up...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Watty on September 25, 2007, 01:04:15 pm
(http://www.greatsmileys.com/image/cyan%5E_%5Everdana%5E_%5E0%5E_%5E0%5E_%5EBedonnerd%5E_%5E.gif)
(http://www.greatsmileys.com/image/grey%5E_%5Everdana%5E_%5E3%5E_%5E2%5E_%5EVery+nice+report%21%5E_%5E.gif)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bmad on September 25, 2007, 02:24:15 pm
MJ, as usual you do not dissappoint with your ride reports.

Excellent, thus far!  :D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Biesie on September 25, 2007, 02:46:16 pm
"Please sir, can I have some more?"  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Nardus on September 25, 2007, 02:49:52 pm
Great stuff MJ !!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just for the record, the family photo's at Monte Negra contineous ..................


(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/Nardus950/Angola/91a.jpg)



(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/Nardus950/Angola/103a.jpg)



OOOOhhhhh - Lekker kry ek nou !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Doggone on September 25, 2007, 03:17:20 pm
Amazing adventure ;D  Respect!!! ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Captain Zef on September 25, 2007, 03:28:52 pm
Lekker een ouens ek hoop daar kom nog.  :P
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 25, 2007, 04:27:05 pm
Just for the record, the family photo's at Monte Negra contineous ..................


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198520124-M.jpg)



Hey, heeey!  I still wanted to photoshop that stomach away.


Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 25, 2007, 04:40:35 pm
HAHAHA lewe is lekker tussen al daai bokvet en bier, wat meer wil n mens he?

Pa help bietjie uit daar!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195951949-M.jpg)



Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: somewhere-els on September 25, 2007, 04:46:17 pm
Posted by:Metaljockey
Quote
Hey, heeey!  I still wanted to photoshop that stomach away.

 :laughing7: :laughing9: :laughing7:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: popipants on September 25, 2007, 05:27:02 pm
WOW
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GIDEON on September 25, 2007, 06:07:28 pm
Julle dit is een van die beste in n lang tyd, tweede was die namib een die Angolo een is tops.
BAIE BAIE nice julle, sal moet meer kry as net die.
Lekker fotos' maar lyk meer of julle perf en drink as ry  >:D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 25, 2007, 08:08:37 pm
Gideon, it was hot and it's lots of sand to ride to get to the Kunene ;D >:D

A few pics on our way to the Kunene outdoor lodge ;)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199207040-M.jpg)

These guy's ride sand and rocks with ease, and the bikes last. Cost them around 4 cows to buy a bike.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195946801-M.jpg)

Crossing dry river beds great fun.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199205519-M.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199205771-M.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199206293-M.jpg)

Angolan build KTM950, just showing how's it suppose to be riden. Much lighter on fuel than the 950's sold in the rest of the world. It's tough animals, water is not freely avaialble it's really bone dry there.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199208281-M.jpg)

Scared?  Come lets race!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199208849-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195947552-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on September 25, 2007, 10:33:56 pm
Great report! Where's the rest? ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Whethefakawe on September 26, 2007, 12:29:50 am
Now THAT'S an adventure ride!!   Africa is not for sissies china. :nono:

Can you please post a map of your route? Did you get info somewhere regarding old minefields, and was it ever a consideration on your trip? I have severe paranoia about bikes and mines!

Brilliant photos and report. :salut: :occasion14:





Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uncle Bob on September 26, 2007, 01:27:49 pm
really hanging me out to dry !
then you post and i remember why i keep checking for an update.



For those that havent read the goat story.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134368chosen as the favorite ride report by many

This thread is AWESOME but the one highlighted above on ADVRider is just mind blowing.

Nice rides MJ.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: X Banana Boy on September 26, 2007, 05:49:01 pm
Excellent keep it coming
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 26, 2007, 06:00:00 pm
Now THAT'S an adventure ride!!   Africa is not for sissies china. :nono:

Can you please post a map of your route? Did you get info somewhere regarding old minefields, and was it ever a consideration on your trip? I have severe paranoia about bikes and mines!

Brilliant photos and report. :salut: :occasion14:



I'll post a map as soon as I get one. We did not get minefield maps. I was under the impression that there wasn't much action here in the far South Western corner. I was wrong.
It's not something that was going to stop us from going but neither were we going to be stupid about it. Mostly the idea was not to stray from existing used tracks. When we left Monte Negro we asked the police about mines and they confirmed that it had allready been removed.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 26, 2007, 06:05:03 pm
Yesterday was such a lovely day of excesses and decadence. Today will be the day we pay for those. And I'm not talking money here. I'm talking 'sweat of your brow' kind of shit. Today we tackle the 'landmine track' referred to before.

Less than a km and I get dumped on my face.     
Good!     
You deserved that you lazy bastard.
Pay attention. Today wer'e gonna ride.

We do a riverbed and an extreme river rock section within the first 5km which wakes us up nicely and gets the beer converted into sweat in no-time. Sorry, no pics, everybody was a bit shell shocked.

As we turn away from the river we quickly realise that the word "track" is a bit optimistic. (me)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198569675-L.jpg)



It's rocks, rocks, rocks, rocks and some more rocks. The bikes are handling like crap. I referred before to the 30 litres of petrol each was carrying in addition to his full tank. Let me put that in perspective for you:

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/200616426-L.jpg)

That's the fuel only.

The packing priorities was clear to everyone. First fuel. Then water. Then tools. Then the optional stuff such as bedding, mattress, tent, clothing and all the stuff one would normally pack.

The massive weight of the fuel and water makes your bike a stranger. I was riding a pogo stick front connected to a drunk hippopotamus at the rear. Not lekker at all.

And still it is rocks, rocks, rocks. First gear, second gear stuff. We take so many forced rest breaks I doubt we will ever make it to Foz do Cunene.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198552676-L.jpg)



The 950 comes into it's own however. The weight of the bike allows it to track straight and ignore all but the ugliest rocks. (Nardus)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198508854-L.jpg)



Because the rocks determine your line, the thorn bushes are just plain having their way with you. My gloves gets ripped to shreds.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/200664127-M.jpg)



I'm pretty impressed with the new pants I'm trying out. No tearing even though the thorns are drawing blood.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198532687-L.jpg)



And still more rocks. (Nardus)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198529207-L.jpg)



Sometimes it just gets plain silly.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198528911-L.jpg)



What is worse is that you cannot afford to go down. If you are going to try and save the bike you will break something. If you abandon the bike, it will get damaged.

We are not in a place where you can depend on help.
Best case scenario - someone rides out to get help. That's one day if all goes well.
To get to a place where an evacuation vehicle can be sourced, another day. 
For a vehicle to get to where wer'e at, three days minimum.
To get back to the border, two days.
That's 6-7 days before you get to Ruacana and then you still need to get airlifted to the hospital of your choice in South Africa.

It's risky riding and it takes everything you have. All of your skill and all of your concentration.


And did I mention rocks? (Hennie)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198508708-L.jpg)



Let's talk about Fred for a moment. This is him.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198508323-L.jpg)

I have done many trips with Hennie, Nardus and Michnus. This is my first full trip with Fred. It will be Fred's first serious trip. His dual sport experience is limited to the 3000km he has put on his new Dakar. Ordinarily we would not take someone like that on a trip such as this.

But Fred is not ordinary. He is by far the fittest of the group. He's like a Sportsmans Illustrated poster boy. He ran the Comrades marathon (5 times). He rowed the Duzi Canoe Marathon. One week before this trip he completed a 230km day/night mountain bike race. This is what clinched it for me. If he is a mountain bike racer, how difficult can the transition to a motorcycle be?
Fred was the unfortunate donner who was going to find out.

We ride out of sight of each other due to the dust. The second last oke stops periodically and check that the last oke is still coming. Fred comes out of a drift and loses it, going down heavily. His body twists around but not his right leg, this is trapped under the bike. He lies in the sun with fuel dripping on his leg. After lying there in pain for a while he realises that the next oke isn't coming.

The next oke is supposed to be me. As fate would have it I get a rock that punches through my tyre (specially bought Michelin Desert) and through the bottom and top of my tube, just as Fred goes down. So I am a km or two down the road fixing a flat in the same sun that Fred is lying in. Blissfully unaware.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198530686-L.jpg)



It takes Fred the better part of 15 minutes to extricate himself. The bike is heavily loaded with all that extra fuel. Have a look at the marks where he thrashed about the dust.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198492636-L.jpg)



I was confounded by the helmet under the bike until he explained that he would lift the bike and wedge the helmet, rest, then do it again until he got out.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199213860-L.jpg)



He had an opportunity to do a lie down every day so far but this is the first one that hurt. His ankle and knee got twisted and his chest also took a knock.

But, we have to ride and so on to more ...... rocks.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198492433-L.jpg)



Fred starts taking pictures of rocks?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198491747-L.jpg)



And stil more...

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198505518-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198506212-L.jpg)



Ok, I have a hundred more of these but I'm sure you get my point. There were a lot of rocks.

And of course there is also riverbeds just to test the spread of skills.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198529456-L.jpg)



Michnus fails the test spectacularly. That dust cloud out front is him connecting a large rock.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198529690-L.jpg)



Another rest stop.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198570469-L.jpg)



We see some strange plant life.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198530067-L.jpg)



As the sun sets we pull into a riverbed to make camp.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198507054-L.jpg)



And there we find something to put our easy,  privileged lives back into perspective.

This morning a donkey threw this boy off and stepped on his arm causing it to fracture and the bone to stick out the bottom of his arm.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198507184-L.jpg)

They are on their way to Namibia for medical help. To walk to the nearest Angolan town would take weeks. They have been walking all day. They have a further 3 day's walk to get to Namibia. We set the arm and give them some pain pills.

I suddenly think a little differently about the idyllic lives these free nomads lead.

As we lie in the riverbed we take stock of the situation. Everybody started with 5 litres of water this morning. No-one has more than 500 ml left. We are nowhere near Foz do Cunene. If tomorrow is going to be like today we are going to have a serious problem. We pin our hopes on Iona. The National Park takes it's name and we know there is a Police post so it should at least have a shop. Hopefully we can also stock up on some tins of food.

Everybody is hurting after the day's riding but I notice that Fred is very quiet. His knee isn't giving him any joy.

We have a look at the GPS stats and I almost laugh out loud. Moving average for the day: 26 km/h. That's at the top of first gear for fuck's sake. I sure as hell hope that tomorrow isn't more of the same.


Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: chrisB on September 26, 2007, 06:18:40 pm
Wow this is awesome, you guy's are lucky!  :notworthy:  Here I am at work.....  :'(
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Red on September 26, 2007, 07:20:48 pm
Wow this is awesome, you guy's are lucky!  :notworthy: 

+100

Hats off to you.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Adventurer on September 26, 2007, 09:40:31 pm
You guys did some serious afkark there.....RESPECT.  8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: tok-tokkie on September 26, 2007, 10:12:24 pm
You only get one shot at life.  Use it.

Bloody hell your kids are going to hear some boring stories.

Awesome!  In the true meaning of the word.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Leo on September 26, 2007, 10:16:18 pm
and finally me

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/199141061-M.jpg)


Hey MJ - you lowering your standards.  ???

First picture of you EVER, without a beer in hand  ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on September 26, 2007, 10:54:25 pm
and finally me

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/199141061-M.jpg)


Hey MJ - you lowering your standards.  ???

First picture of you EVER, without a beer in hand  ;D ;D ;D

But Leo, you can't see his hands! ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on September 26, 2007, 11:06:00 pm
Awesome guys, respect that looks like some of the shit the boys play in at DeWildt on weekends....

I can't wait for the next episode...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Plothond on September 27, 2007, 12:04:37 am
Really enjoying this MJ

I log on everywhile - just to check for your next installment
This is what we can only dream about

RESPECT !!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ratel on September 27, 2007, 12:16:47 am
Hectic ride :o

Keep those pictures coming ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JourneyMan on September 27, 2007, 06:37:08 am
Eish! Serious riding there. :eek:

Keep it coming.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Captain Zef on September 27, 2007, 07:16:32 am
Really nice report...

Guys where did you carry all that fuel... i don't see any on the bikes..  ::)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 27, 2007, 08:46:00 am
We knew from the start weigh was going to be an issue. And we would have to pack light.
We had :
 30L Fuel
5L water
Tripper 1.5Lwater
Food for 4days each, only canned food one tin p/p per day.
Some tools we shared
Mattress/ Sleeping bag and tent
One set of clothes.

Panniers was out of the question, too heavy, can break and we can't fix it, and it severely impairs your riding on rough terrain. So we worked on soft panniers. We bought Topbox's soft panniers and made light weight brackets for the bikes.

Cost me in total with powder coating R250 steel included. Weigh around a kilo in total.

(http://i22.photobucket.com/albums/b349/michnus/Dakar/DSCN1900.jpg)


10L on the back and 10L each in the side panniers. rest on the back. I had to move the bulk of the stuff to my pillion seat to get the bike to ride like something I know. It is incredible how difficult the bike ride with all that weight and then you must try and ride 90km rocks and sand.
It's like the thing is drunk and it's head is running all over the place.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199177087-M.jpg)

The soft panniers have done their job excellently, we had to support them with tie-downs because of the weight but they held up and will be used on our next trips. The thorn bushes gave them a fright, but they still look good
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195979640-M.jpg)

PS will tell you later about MJ's fuel strategy. ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on September 27, 2007, 08:52:17 am
I can never even imagine doing a trip like this ... you guys have what it takes.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on September 27, 2007, 09:59:41 am
keep it coming... this is just getting better and better...

good stuff helping that kid out !!!! Who has the fisrt aid training?  did you have a stiching kit to sort out the wound?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: shark_za on September 27, 2007, 10:13:05 am
Awesome guys.
Sure we play in that shit on weekends, but with a loaded bike it must be difficult.


Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Scribble on September 27, 2007, 10:33:39 am
show us the dents in the tanks from your big titanium testicles
you okes rock awesome report
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Die Rooi Baron on September 27, 2007, 10:56:00 am
show us the dents in the tanks from your big titanium testicles
you okes rock awesome report


 :headbang:  +1000000...

Maximum Respect!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: popipants on September 27, 2007, 11:09:19 am
Awesome guys.
Sure we play in that shit on weekends, but with a loaded bike it must be difficult.




true, but if you break yourself or your bike in de Wildt; You phone your wife to come and fetch you !!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Maverick on September 27, 2007, 02:47:31 pm
Absolutely awesome, this is a great report  8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: SMD on September 27, 2007, 02:59:23 pm
FAAAARKKEEN A.... Thats a REAL storie
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KTM BIGGER on September 27, 2007, 03:06:19 pm
Brilliant stuff!!!!

Bring on the rest.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on September 27, 2007, 03:33:18 pm
All them rocks, I heard there was only a few BIG rocks before the Gunners went up there, now there are lots of smaller rocks  ::) ::) ::)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GIDEON on September 27, 2007, 09:18:39 pm
Baie nice BAIE nice.
Makes you wonder about LONG trips with big bikes in remote country's

Better not tell the Legen about the rocks in Angola other wise she will never go
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 27, 2007, 10:25:16 pm

good stuff helping that kid out !!!! Who has the fisrt aid training?  did you have a stiching kit to sort out the wound?


No-one has any training. We didn't want to close the wound either for fear of infection.


As far as my fuel "strategy" goes:

I decided to go this way.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198514832-L.jpg)



My reasoning was that we were going to need to carry the extra fuel for the first 2-3 days. The route we wanted to take would also require us to carry extra fuel on the last two days. I wasn't keen on carting around 30 litre containers for the whole trip. With these wine bags it would not be a problem as they can fold up small and be packed away until needed again.

I couldn't find any reference to some-one else having tried this. So what I did was to do a test by filling one with fuel and leaving it for two weeks. There appeared to be no deterioration in the bag and the fuel was still clear. I also had my daughter jump up and down on one to test the strength, no problem there either. All I needed to do was to make sure that they are packed properly so that they don't chafe.

This is where the Kappa soft panniers came in. This would also be the first trip that I would do with panniers.

Each side carried 3 x 5 litre bags even though the manufacturer specifies only 5kg carrying capacity per bag. To assist the bags I put a strap around them as can be seen in this pic. (Also notice how it brings the weight low and in front of the rear axle)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198530904-L.jpg)



Well, as it turns out it was a bad idea. The bags expand from the excessive heat and the foil part cannot contain the pressure. Luckily the plastic inner lining can expand so I never lost any fuel.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198531077-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198516470-L.jpg)



At least I learned something new. If anyone should come up with such a hare brained scheme again, I will be able to crap all over them.

As for the Kappa bags, I'm a convert now. Gets the weight exactly where you want it and it laughs in the face of adversity. I washed them two days ago and they look like new.


Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Leo on September 27, 2007, 10:38:16 pm
Hey MJ, Isn't it a moerse job to get the fuel through that little small hole when filling.  ???

BTW why aren't you out celebrating your biffday?? Happy happy  ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 27, 2007, 10:53:44 pm
Hey MJ, Isn't it a moerse job to get the fuel through that little small hole when filling.  ???

BTW why aren't you out celebrating your biffday?? Happy happy  ;)


No, flat screwdriver and the whole tap comes off.

Thanks, don't know why I'm not out. Must be getting old.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 27, 2007, 10:58:22 pm
GS to add what MJ said, we were planning on taking a satellite phone, but that got to nothing days before we left. We had an emergency kit but you can't do open heart surgery with it.
Looking back, even if we had a satellite phone it will take days before people will reach you. I doubt a 4x4 can drive faster than 15-20km/h on those roads. In the end it's all part of the experience, the best we can do is recommend a headache pill, more than that, well bite on a piece of wood. 8)


Some more pics of the route to Iona.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199219768-M.jpg)

These rocks are still young and light brown, if you look closely you can see them grow.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199220349-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199221137-M.jpg)

I really like this picture

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195954054-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Lootch67 on September 27, 2007, 11:03:57 pm
With apologies to the movie of almost the same name: "The dogs must be crazy!" Awesome stuff!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 28, 2007, 01:19:42 am
The next morning the coffee gets made early because that's the last of the water. We are wanting to use the cool morning to get to Iona.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198507605-L.jpg)



Deja vu.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198508854-L.jpg)



Luckily it turns out to be only a scare. Once we hit the main road to Iona things improve markedly.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198571044-L.jpg)


So much so that we start seeing the beauty in nature again.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198570629-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198533060-L.jpg)



And it's always enjoyable to breathe the morning air from the seat of a bike.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198492881-L.jpg)



Here and there a bit of a climb, but it is just entertainment.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198531986-L.jpg)



We even get to use third gear! What a joy.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198553805-L.jpg)



We run into a frenchman doing Africa solo. He's done over 300 000km in this Land Rover. All in Africa. Talk about hardcore!

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198570807-L.jpg)

This was to be the only vehicle we saw in 6 days of riding. It was in fact the longest I have ever ridden without coming across any other vehicles.




We get to Iona and find that we seriously overestimated the place. It is one school building.
Nothing else.
No shop to buy food, no nothing. Not even a hut. Just veldt, and this school. Unbelievably, the school is operating.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198571613-L.jpg)

What you see here is a common theme through-out Africa. It still gets to me everytime though.




We now get to another of my concerns, mentioned at the start of this report. We are now in the middle of Parque Nacional do Iona. National Parks as a rule do not allow motorcycles. We had long discussions on this aspect when planning the trip. The consensus was that the odds that we would run into a patrol is remote enough for us to risk it.

Hennie and Nardus have been jailed in Botswana specifically for this reason. Angola is the very last place on my list of preferred places to be jailed.

The police post in Iona is a couple of kms up a dead end road into the mountains. We can very easily bypass them.

But, we need water. When you need it, you NEED it. So we pull into the police post. Once again, we find friendly, helpful folk that let us get water from their containers. I suck down a quick litre and fill again. Man I like this country.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198553997-L.jpg)



And things just gets better, Iona is the last of the mountains and we ride into the soft velvet plains.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198554130-L.jpg)



It is just fantastic to open up. Damn! It's the first opportunity on this whole trip.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198533609-L.jpg)



I have no words to tell you how sweet it is.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198508986-L.jpg)



Look Ma, no rocks!

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198533966-L.jpg)



And it's pretty.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198534479-L.jpg)



We start seeing Welwitchias, in fact lots of Welwitchias. This means that we are entering the Namib desert.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198554341-L.jpg)



The sign says it all. We should be fine.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198534717-L.jpg)



As the desert starts to unfold we hit a horribly corrugated section. But we cannot let the tyres down as it is interspersed with embedded rocks. So we we just rattle on.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198534883-L.jpg)



We cover a lot of distance.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198535053-L.jpg)



And some more. Strange how the nothingness of a desert can be so beautiful.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198572138-L.jpg)



We make up a lot of time lost over the previous days.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198509423-L.jpg)



We make a detour to go and see what the Kunene looks like as it cuts through the desert.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198535431-L.jpg)



Cooling off time. This trip has everything. We are very fortunate.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198535931-L.jpg)



Ok, that's it for now. I need to get some sleep.








Here's a teaser for the next installment.



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198510610-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KTM BIGGER on September 28, 2007, 02:05:27 am
Excellent report, Damn this is interesting. please keep it coming.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on September 28, 2007, 07:30:34 am
Excellent report, Damn this is interesting. please keep it coming.

+100 !!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Watty on September 28, 2007, 07:50:13 am
Hond se kierie .... dit is 'n lekker verslag hierdie!(http://www.freesmileys.org/emo/happy112.gif)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on September 28, 2007, 08:49:11 am
(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198510610-L.jpg)

you killed darth vader???????????????  :o :o :o :o :o

looking forward to it...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: SMD on September 28, 2007, 08:52:03 am
Ok here's the thing..... I'm not getting any FARKING WORK DONE HERE !!!! This story is just a tad riveting. Keep it coming MJ 
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Dusty on September 28, 2007, 09:47:34 am
You have me glued to the PC, thanks for sharing and taking us there.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on September 28, 2007, 09:57:57 am
Stunning Guys stunning.......please keep it comming
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 28, 2007, 10:58:11 am
I must share this story, like MJ's intro said, "Angola, it's not like they said" whatever you think, it will be something other that you made yourself to believe.

We slept 20 to 30km from Iona in the river bed, the reason? Well Hennie and Nardus was concerned that Iona would be a "hool" with too many people and noisy drunks. Well again we got rudely reminded that what we perceived to be the norm, here in Angola, it is just a small school mud and stick building.

Even on the maps it show Iona as a town, well as MJ showed this was the town, the outside of the school!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195957053-M.jpg)

The only sign around, telling of your arrival in Iona.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195957188-M.jpg)

A ghost town before you enter the park.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195957571-M.jpg)

The route down to the Kunene is sand, proper desert sand, I had a whale of time getting myself stuck, and working like dog trying to get the bike out again. >:D

See the hard pack red sand? Well I didn't, moer!! And that basted 640 have no respect for sand. >:(

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/196185200-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195958953-M.jpg)

But it's also great fun riding there, this road in particular looks smooth, it's not, the thing was badly corrugated, and I honestly though that one of the bikes are going to be badly damage by this road, your hands go numb from the vibrations.
You have to stand, otherwise your filling will donner out.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/196193443-M.jpg)

The only tree we could find. I don't have the vocabulary to describe the stunning beauty of Angola, I have tried to come up with descriptive words, as we rode, but I can only think of this!


DIS EENVOUDIG BEEEFOK!!

Gettit?

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195958184-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195957933-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199229371-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195958515-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199229383-M.jpg)




Just for the techno junkies, the guy with the landy travel without a GPS, only maps.

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on September 28, 2007, 11:03:20 am
Ok Michnus calmed me down a bit but I was just about to post:


sonofa.. can't believe you're making us wait like this!
That's just cruel man.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: IDR on September 28, 2007, 11:04:49 am
LEGEN.....DARY!!!!  Edge of the seat stuff (waiting for the next instalment that is).

Thanks for sharing :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on September 28, 2007, 11:37:39 am
Well guys ... it is a hell of a trip and I must say you have some stunning photographs. I can appreciate the effort you have put in to document the trip on camera. So many times we rush through and take no shots and then afterwards you are really upset with yourself. You guys did a fantastic job of the photos.

Thank you very much for sharing.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GRIM on September 28, 2007, 12:14:30 pm
Awesome report, just gives me the jitters seeing guys taking random paths and roads up there...

Some pics from my old stomping grounds.....

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: skillie on September 28, 2007, 03:14:23 pm
This is a FANTASTIC report guys. Thank you very much for your efforts. Can not wait for the next episode !!!!

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Zonkelnut on September 28, 2007, 03:29:52 pm
I owe U one michnus, for not inviting me and Zonkmobile with!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: B.V. on September 28, 2007, 04:50:01 pm
I owe U one michnus, for not inviting me and Zonkmobile with!!!!

Ja die twatwaffle!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: wino on September 28, 2007, 07:00:26 pm
i have now been through the report a couple of times, enjoying it more each time i read it. this is a befokte trip and report!! well done on both, waiting in anticipation for the rest!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on September 29, 2007, 02:33:02 am
I owe U one michnus, for not inviting me and Zonkmobile with!!!!

Ja die twatwaffle!!

Sorry Zonk :-[ ;)

B.V. ...............Jou moer man!  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GIDEON on September 29, 2007, 09:52:20 am
 ;D
Well next time just inform us via PM's then you'll be forgiven BLIKSEM  >:D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GIDEON on September 29, 2007, 11:37:02 am
Net n plesiertjie
BTW hoe moeilik was die papier werk?
Is dit iets wat mens maklik kan beplan.
Het al gewonder om eendag die VanZyl pas te try maar net dit aangesien dit so moeilik is net soontoe oor en terug  ::) :o
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uncle Bob on September 29, 2007, 08:28:32 pm
ag nee my fok.

went away for two days, all the way back i reassure myself that finally i get to read the rest of this report, i get back and nothings happened.

Where's the rest of this AMZING report - can't wait to hear what happened to Darth Vader.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on September 29, 2007, 10:46:40 pm
ag nee my fok.

went away for two days, all the way back i reassure myself that finally i get to read the rest of this report, i get back and nothings happened.

Where's the rest of this AMZING report - can't wait to hear what happened to Darth Vader.

+10000000

I am starving!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on September 30, 2007, 11:11:59 am


Suitably cooled down and having rinsed some clothes we leave the river behind again.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198554618-L.jpg)




Not too shabby for someone with no sand riding experience.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198536066-L.jpg)




Another smoke break. Before this trip only Nardus smoked. He quickly converted another two ex-smokers.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198554783-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198554922-L.jpg)




As I hit the starter at the next stop I hear 'poof' and my bike is dead. Dead. No dash lights, no nothing.

I so wanted this bike to be reliable. I so wanted to trust it.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198510248-L.jpg)




It certainly chose the worst place to shaft me like this. A scenic spot officially known as Fucking Nowhere.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/202042281-L.jpg)




If the problem is the battery, I can still believe in the bike.

We spend some time trying to figure out what the problem is. It's clearly electrical. It could be the battery, the CDI (God forbid), the starter, fuses, ignition switch, starter relay or any wire pinched somewhere.

Intermittently the dashlights would come on. The headlight would also work fine. So we figure it's not the battery. When you hit the starter however everything dissapears again, only to come back after some time and ignition switching.

It could be a connection though, so I sand the contacts on the battery wires. I strip the earth wire from the frame and sand that too.

It makes no difference.

We can hear the starter relay kick in, so it is not that either. Unless it engages but the main contacts are burnt. It's sealed thoug so we'll have to ignore that possibility for the time being.

We strip out the ignition. I have previously come across reports of the ignition wires coming loose. It's not that either. We strip the ignition to the contacts and clean them. We fit it again but there is no change.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198510942-L.jpg)




Getting comfortable, we may have to spend the night.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198536700-L.jpg)




We isolate the entire ignition by pulling the plug and shorting the contacts with a paper clip.

This appears to have one benefit, the dash lights comes on everytime. The lights don't work though and neither does the starter.

We try to kickstart it while the dash lights are working. This bike does not start easily with a kick starter. But after a while it fires up. Halleluja!

I'm not gonna tempt fate so we decide that I will ride as fast as I can and only stop when I reach Foz. Hennie is to accompany me as he has a GPS and if we do get seperated at least we'll still be two groups of 2 and 3.

It does'nt work out exactly that way because less than 500m from where we were Fred and Hennie hits the deck coming down a dune. Fred takes the impact on his hip which buckles his spine and takes a while to recover. I've always said that a chiropractor will be very handy on these trips. By the time Hennie gets going again I've already dissapeared into the desert and he decides to stay with the group.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198511048-L.jpg)




And so we race the setting sun.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198536762-L.jpg)




Just as a quick aside, remember the shell worn by the Himba women? This is why I said it's a big deal. Imagine crossing this on foot.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198555067-L.jpg)




Being on my own and riding at pace this turns into the most enjoyable riding of the trip.

Just me, the desert, the bike and poetry.

Dammit, this bike is just sublime when you use the suspension properly. This afternoons ride will stay with me for a long time.

I finally get to Foz do Cunene and pull up at the Police post. Hell of a friendly chaps and I spend some time with them while waiting for the others. Much laughter ensues when Michnus drops in with the rest in tow.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198555188-L.jpg)

The ruins you see above is the whole of Foz do Cunene.



Fred with the Angolan flag. It's been a longish day. We left at daybreak.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198555277-L.jpg)



We are in time to catch the setting sun though.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198511244-L.jpg)




When I try to start my bike it is not interested at all and we have to push it down to the river. Good thing I kept it going while it was going.
We camp by the old pump house to try and get some shelter from the cold coastal wind.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198572765-L.jpg)




My lodgings.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198536896-L.jpg)




One last thing on these policemen at Foz do Cunene. They must have the worst post in the force. I'm sure you get sent here for punishment.

Here's a map. Foz do Cunene (Kunene Mouth) is in the far bottom-left corner.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/200942083-L.jpg)

There is nothing anywhere close to it. Well, the 'metropolis' of Iona is closest.
They drink river water. They eat only fish that they catch in the sea several kms away.
There is no beer, no shop, they don't have their wives staying there, there are no women, no goats, nothing except sand, sun and wind and 7 guys. Oh, and one book into which they copy names and passport numbers.

They have no electricity, so I assume they have no communications. They have no vehicle. They must be dropped here and left untill it is time to fetch them again.

They borrowed our English/Portuguese phrase book for entertainment. Now they know how to politely enquire if room service is available and what to say when they tip the porter.

Those okes at Monte Negro don't know how good they have it.







Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on September 30, 2007, 11:21:47 am
Wow. This is a dream trip. When is the next chapter due?  ::) ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JourneyMan on September 30, 2007, 11:29:36 am
Ja Michnus. Resting is important. :biggrin:

Good thinking there to keep going MJ.

I once did a solo without switching the bike off once. Smoke breaks, pictures, resting and re-fueling because of a suspect battery.

Man. That scenery is mind bogling. I can only imagine what it must be up close and personal! :razz:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GIDEON on September 30, 2007, 11:33:57 am
WOW AWSOME
What I would give to have that day you had MJ you the desert and the bike. What we dream off doing.
Looks aswome and really really HOT.
Mybe the send the cops they dont like there  >:D
Or the once there having affiars with there wifes with  >:D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bushclown on September 30, 2007, 05:19:04 pm

WOW what a ride looks hell up there  :thumright:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KTM BIGGER on September 30, 2007, 06:54:17 pm
doesn't matter what trip I do in future, I will look like a sissie compare to you guys
again  RESPECT

+1
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kev on September 30, 2007, 08:08:20 pm
Truly awesome! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: buzzlightyear on September 30, 2007, 09:55:10 pm
:o This is hardcore stuff

Well done guys. :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LuckyStriker on October 01, 2007, 02:55:59 pm
I am a lowly maggot
I am but a worm

Trips like these are what I can only hope to aspire to
Great writing
excellent pics

Write a book!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on October 01, 2007, 06:36:20 pm
+1
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: PARAMED on October 01, 2007, 07:42:52 pm
So when you guys going again...
I bags Shotgun......!!! 8) 8)

Awesome stuff!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: peter stuyvesant on October 01, 2007, 09:17:05 pm
Awesome stuff!
You okes have BIG kahoonas.I take my hat off to all of you.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Nardus on October 02, 2007, 09:08:16 am
I have one correction to make to MJ's report - something that has been bothering me a lot since he has started this report. At the beginning of the report he posted pictures of the 5 comrades that did the trip, however, he opted to post a picture of himself without a beer and he had the nerve to post a picture of himself of about 20 years ago where he was still looking well, sort of, human-like.

Just to keep the record straight - please find a more appropriate picture of MJ that should rather have been used. Although he does not hold a beer in his hand, this picture was taken after lots and lots of alcohol, dust, sun and exitement ................


(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/Nardus950/Angola/404.jpg)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LuckyStriker on October 02, 2007, 09:25:25 am
It must have been hot in that jersey MJ
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: topbox on October 02, 2007, 01:07:13 pm
really hanging me out to dry !
then you post and i remember why i keep checking for an update.


For those that havent read the goat story.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134368
chosen as the favorite ride report by many
While waiting for the next installment and i know it's going to turn into something very special,

again i can really recomend MJ's previous report if you havent read it
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ektoknbike on October 02, 2007, 05:11:21 pm

In die GROOT BOEK staan geskryf dat 'n mens nie mag begeur nie, maar daar staan niks oor dat jy nie mag wyl nie.

Net jammer die ouens se gatte moet blink gelek word om aan te hou skryf. Hulle skryf langer as die trip. ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: >Herman< on October 02, 2007, 05:19:11 pm
C'mon boys!! Where's the next chapter??
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: tok-tokkie on October 02, 2007, 07:10:17 pm
I have one correction to make to MJ's report - something that has been bothering me a lot since he has started this report. At the beginning of the report he posted pictures of the 5 comrades that did the trip, however, he opted to post a picture of himself without a beer and he had the nerve to post a picture of himself of about 20 years ago where he was still looking well, sort of, human-like.

Just to keep the record straight - please find a more appropriate picture of MJ that should rather have been used. Although he does not hold a beer in his hand, this picture was taken after lots and lots of alcohol, dust, sun and exitement ................


(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/Nardus950/Angola/404.jpg)


Just look at those bright shiny eyes!
Black Label is a killer.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Raider on October 02, 2007, 08:54:52 pm
Brilliant stuff!

Keep it going.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 03, 2007, 03:15:18 pm
Fantastic trip. Epic journey. Makes the rest of us look phoney with our round the block trips.

Respect guys....please hurry up and finish this report. ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Leo on October 03, 2007, 07:29:03 pm
(http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa266/Nardus950/Angola/404.jpg)

Faarkit MJ, looks like you picked up some or other STD  ;D ;D ;D

Definately not your greatest moment  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Groenie on October 03, 2007, 09:36:05 pm
En???

 Waar's die res?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 03, 2007, 10:23:10 pm
I am a lowly maggot
I am but a worm


Shoe, jy's darem 'n vlyer jong.

Just look at those bright shiny eyes!
Black Label is a killer.

Nee, nee. Black Label is like water to me. This was something different, we'll get there.



Sorry oor die delay. Volgende installment due right now.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Scribble on October 03, 2007, 10:27:54 pm
I am a lowly maggot
I am but a worm


Shoe, jy's darem 'n vlyer jong.

Just look at those bright shiny eyes!
Black Label is a killer.

Nee, nee. Black Label is like water to me. This was something different, we'll get there.



Sorry oor die delay. Volgende installment due right now.
aaaaand?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 03, 2007, 10:28:13 pm
Today is the day all of us have been looking forward to. Today we reach the coast and the next leg of our trip starts. About 200km of deserted beach and dunes. Woohoo!

We are ready for some of this.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198511916-L.jpg)




Surprisingly my bike starts without too much kicking and we head out to find the river mouth.

And this is what it looks like where the Kunene enters the sea.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198537055-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198537227-L.jpg)



We cannot contain our joy. We made it. We feel a lovely sense of accomplishment.Now our beach holiday starts.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198537362-L.jpg)



We celebrate with a breakfast of biltong and Stroh rum.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198572903-L.jpg)



Hennie goes of to go catch something for the pot.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198537518-L.jpg)

We are in angler's Mecca. By all reports, this place is swarming with fish. You can throw almost anything at the sea and pull fish out. A bite per cast they say.

Well, they don't know Hennie.

On the way through Namibia we had to stop in Keetmanshoop and Mariental. We spent what felt like hours in the heat waiting for Hennie and Fred who was looking for rods and tackle. I started having my doubts when Hennie asked what a swivel was at the one shop. The idea is that we spend a couple of days living off the sea here. Hmmmmm.



One of the policemen is fishing with a handline. Hennie uses the same bait and casts right next to him. The policeman pulls out four cob. Hennie pulls out the bait he cast in.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198512047-L.jpg)



Don't know what happened here but it looks like it was funny.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198512208-L.jpg)



Nardus taking the ATGATT thing a tad too far.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198512332-L.jpg)



The river provides plenty driftwood.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198555896-L.jpg)



While Hennie is out proving that angling needs skill, Fred sorts out a slow puncture. I also strip the 640 again and start isolating parts and testing. I'm slowly starting to suspect the battery again.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198512497-L.jpg)



Hennie returns with great fanfare. He successfully bought these fish off the policeman for R50. We applaud him for setting a record as the only person ever to come to Angola and catch buggerall.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198493927-L.jpg)



My carrier rack becomes an imprompto cutting board.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198538052-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198513029-L.jpg)



Fresh fish tastes much better than shop fish. No doubt about that.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198513208-L.jpg)



The wind picks up and starts sweeping the beach.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198555724-L.jpg)



On these wastelands there's nothing to stop it. If you need shelter, you'd better make a shelter.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198573017-L.jpg)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198555620-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198513264-L.jpg)



Behind the shelter sand continuously sifts down on us. Fred's ear is starting it's own beach.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198538258-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198538430-L.jpg)



Later in the afternoon we can't take it anymore and decide to head out.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198538532-L.jpg)



We move inland to join a marked track.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198513550-L.jpg)




We find it.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198538664-L.jpg)




It quickly dissapears under the sand though and it turns into a guessing game.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198538819-L.jpg)




So we move down to the beach again.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198539112-L.jpg)



We would have liked so much to play on the dunes but we cannot. Our fuel situation is bordering on serious. We are either just going to make it or just not going to make it.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198727660-L.jpg)



The riding on the beach is lovely though.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198513804-L.jpg)




Nardus looks over his shoulder to see if the next rider is coming and the 950 promptly shakes him off. KTMs are like that. They like for you to pay attention to them. They want you to be committed. A lot like women actually.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198573179-L.jpg)



Some places the dunes move away from the sea but you have to stick with them. Usually there are lagoons and if you stay on the shoreline you have to backtrack tens of kms to get around them.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198513949-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198514247-L.jpg)



We find a spot to overnight.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198556159-L.jpg)



Sunset over the sea. We live on the other side of the continent. We are used to a sunrise over the sea.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198727820-L.jpg)



Fresh mussels for dinner. Very tasty.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198728222-L.jpg)



Yeah, life is good in Africa.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198573575-L.jpg)



The day's riding had been easier than we expected. I know that Fred especially had been worried, because every time we have hit sand so far, he had had a hard time. Knowing that we had 200km of beach and dunes on the way must have weighed a bit on his mind.

After today though, we are all relaxed and full of confidence.


Little did we know what we were in for the following day. Another teaser.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/203684524-L.jpg)

PS. I'll get to the next installment soon. One day max.




Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Scribble on October 03, 2007, 10:36:55 pm
i didnt think it could but this just gets better absolutely brilliant
im must try and sleep now
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KTM BIGGER on October 04, 2007, 12:44:04 am
Brilliant stuff this is. :D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: X Banana Boy on October 04, 2007, 04:10:15 am
Excellent stuff.  The masses wait.....
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Operator on October 04, 2007, 07:29:42 am
Great report guys .............Keep it coming!!

This makes for very good reading.

 :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 04, 2007, 07:49:54 am
Bikes make a excellent wind barrier.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195965325-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/203892964-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/203893172-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 04, 2007, 08:23:03 am
It's these ride reports that inspire me to work, so that I can get the money to go ride.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Plothond on October 04, 2007, 08:30:32 am
Ai jai jai

I can just see LostDog - with a glint in his eye

Man, that looks lekker !!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 04, 2007, 08:30:38 am
There are no good stories about pleasant journeys.
It's the job of the travel writer to have an awful time.
PJ O'Rourke (and it seems you guys are experts at this)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: David van Breda on October 04, 2007, 08:56:40 am
Absolutely bl@@dy brilliant!

But not for sissies I guess . . .
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LostDOG on October 04, 2007, 09:14:20 am
Ai jai jai

I can just see LostDog - with a glint in his eye

Man, that looks lekker !!!!

Plottie - these guys are hard-core!
My mates have said I better tone things down a bit, else nobody will want to ride with me again. Thinking of taking their advice for a while.

THIS REPORT IS THE SHIT!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 04, 2007, 10:57:40 am

First of all, hats of to you guys for doing what I have been dreaming about, can't wait for the next installment, funny when I was thinking of doing this exact trip I had the impression that the part along the coast was going to be more difficult than the part along the Kunene River.

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 04, 2007, 10:59:03 am
Ai jai jai

I can just see LostDog - with a glint in his eye

Man, that looks lekker !!!!

Plottie - these guys are hard-core!
My mates have said I better tone things down a bit, else nobody will want to ride with me again. Thinking of taking their advice for a while.

THIS REPORT IS THE SHIT!


HI-Jack, Lost Dog and Plottie I'm in  ;)

My Mates ICM and Co. are not interested. :(
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Leo on October 04, 2007, 05:46:19 pm
Bef@k
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 04, 2007, 06:28:21 pm
Here's the thing.

There's a section today renowned for taking vehicles.  The reason is that the waves break straight onto a dune face. There is no beach to ride on. It's about 80km long with here and there a place where there is a break in the dune. About 40 km of it though, has no break. Just waves and dune. It is referred to as the "doodsakker". I don't know what the translation is but it is a term used when you are lying in ambush. It refers to the area where the enemy has to be before you open fire.

You cannot go around. As the waves break straight onto the dune, the only way to get through is to use the intertidal area at low tide. It is sloped, soft and not very wide. You have to be quick or get caught. Have a look.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540135-L.jpg)




T4A has this to say:
  "Do not drive on this beach track between Baia DosTigres and Tombua, not even with 'experienced' tour guides. It is extremely dangerous and you stand a good chance of being trapped by the tide."

We have always taken "very dangerous" and "not recommended" as indicators of where some good riding was to be had.
This would be the first time we were wrong and 'they' were right.

So you learn.




It's still dark as we break camp. We need to be ready as soon as dawn breaks. It will be low tide then.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198539333-L.jpg)




My bike is not co-operating.  When you kick it over, the dash lights dim and sometimes dissapears. It's getting worse. I kick with the left foot until I can no more. Then I get off and kick with the right foot until the leg gives out.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198556540-L.jpg)




Then it's Hennie's turn, then Michnus (no patience, that boy), then Nardus.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198728345-L.jpg)




Waiting for the KTM.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198728480-L.jpg)




Eventually the flippin bike fires up. I now know that I have to keep it running until we stop for the night. Fuck'n excellent way to start a morning, sweating like a pig and some mental shit to carry with you all day.

We camped right at the start of this dune section. Immediately the riding is a lot more challenging. The sand is soft and the bikes labour. Some riders labour too. A 950 showing off the kak side of gravity.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198556979-L.jpg)




I remember a TV ad for a Subaru where the car is driven through the shallows on a beach with water being sprayed all over the bonnet. I used to have a conniption every time I saw it. We quickly find that there is no place for squeamishness about the bikes getting salt water all over them. You have to ride in the wet left by receding waves to get traction.

Have a look at the last two bikes; they are less than 2 metres apart, yet one has traction and one is digging.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198539748-L.jpg)




The sea mist is also fouling your goggles, every 200m you have to let go of the bars and wipe them.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198539439-L.jpg)




There are lots of seals and seal carcasses. Also jackal that feed off them, but they don't pose for pictures.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198729047-L.jpg)




A 'before and after' picture, or a warning to the naive bikers?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198728902-L.jpg)




The riding progressively gets worse and worse. The soft sand is un-ridable. In places your front wheel throws up a bow wave that you can see flying past you. The bikes are just sucking, sucking fuel. Even before we enter the doodsakker, I am forced to leave the others behind. I cannot afford the rest stops because it wastes fuel. I feel like shit because I'm useless to the others.

This gives you an idea of where the tide goes to.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198556847-L.jpg)




Fourty kilometres can be as long as life itself. When you think you've had enough you look back to the horizon and see this.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540382-L.jpg)




You look forward to the horizon and see this.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540253-L.jpg)




The immense drag on your front wheel, and the fact that you cannot back off the throttle, makes the back wheel step out and try to overtake you now and then. I ride out two successfully, but the third ends in a mini-highside. I land on my back but my left hand still has the clutch lever in a deathgrip. So the engine doesn't stall and I am saved.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540491-L.jpg)




The longer we ride the more intense it gets. The sand is so thick and waterlogged it's hard to believe. At one point the drag pulls me down until I'm in 1st gear with the throttle wound to the stop. The motor don't rev out though. It sits in the fat part of the torque curve. The bike bellows like a wounded animal and it kills me.

It just kills me.

No motor should be abused like this. It goes on for a good hundred metres. And there's nothing you can do. I'm on the pegs, murdering the bike and moving at just above walking pace. If I tap off for just a second I'll be stuck, with no way to get going again. And if I get stuck I get fucked. It turns into a refrain in my head that I can't control: "If you get stuck here, you get fucked here".

It get's worse and worse. No pics were taken when things got wild but this will give you an idea.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540683-L.jpg)




We are forced to power down into the wave area after a receding wave in the hope that we'll reach traction before the next wave chases us up into the soft sand again. You have no choice. You plow down into the wet, get traction, pick up speed, and then try and outrun the next wave. If you don't get traction before the next wave hits, you are history. The waves down at the bottom is breaking about a metre and a half high. And in my head it's going: "if you get stuck here you get fucked here" on and on and on and on!

There's no way to avoid it. When you're racing the waves, sometimes you are going to lose. You get surf that just rushes in at a speed greater than the limits of grip in turning. So you crash through it. And everytime that you hit that wave at speed you know you're fucking with chance, or fate, call it what you will. And everytime you make it, it's not even a relief, because it's gonna happen again, and how lucky can 5 guys expect to be? Wer'e working like our lives depend on it. Which it does.

When you get traction you gun it. You're gonna need the speed soon. I'll be flying at 75 km/h and feel the sand make a grab at my front wheel. Immediately I'll bang down on the seat and lock my arms straight. The next soft patch is bound to be worse and you have no way of visually identifying it, or with what tenacity it's going to grip your front wheel. Flying over the front wheel is staring you in the face (like that ugly stranger you see in the mirror when taking a piss some very late, very drunk night at some dive that you never thought you'll be caught dead in). Yeah, like that.

Whatever mistake you make has the potential to be really serious. Whether you fall, stall, get stuck, misjudge, whatever. I have never ridden like this. It scares me shitless.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540791-L.jpg)




And in the end it's fear. Naked fear, but no choice. I'm riding at a risk level that's totally unacceptable. And I try to be liberal about that kind of thing.

But if you stop, you are fucked. So you keep riding, racing, shouting obscenities at fate, knowing you're gonna get the short end of the stick. Turning like the worm being trod upon. Let no-one ever tell you that the worm does't turn. He turns........ he knows.

There are limits. Always and to everything. And behind me the limits are being reached. There's a limit to how long our luck was going to hold out.

There's a limit as to how deep water a Dakar can crash into and hope to punch through.

Fred is the unlucky one that draws the short stick. As he hits the wave, the bike starts it's cartwheel. Fred does not get thrown clear. His soft bags wrap around his foot and he becomes an active participant in this unnatural, ugly, vertical carousel.

Like I said, there are limits to everything, and swinging a grown man around by his foot is going to reach some limit. His ankle accordingly fractures. As Fred and his android bike finally comes to rest, he has the presence of mind to hit the kill switch befire the first wave breaks over his head. Respect!

There's no-one on the scene yet. The second wave breaks over his head. He realises that this may be some serious shit. His fucked-up leg is wrapped up under the bike and he can't fix this. The third wave does not break over his head but fills his helmet. He rips off his goggles gasping for air. Yes, this is serious.

In the mean time Nardus comes upon this scene. Firstly he has his own demons to deal with. He's got a fat pig that's not happy in sand. He knows that if he gets stuck, he cannot fix it. What he sees when he arrives on the scene is a Dakar lying in the surf ..... and the rider too. This is serious shit. If you ain't dead, your'e supposed to stand up. Nardus have known Fred and his family intimately for many years. He invited Fred on this trip. This is not the kind of news he should be expected to break to the family. He gets a bit of a loose bowel feeling until he sees Fred raise his head. Relief! And anger! He cannot stop here, wtf man, why me? He'll be stuck. So he shouts something useless at Fred and rides past to some place where he can stop.

Hennie in the mean time is not absolved from demons. He stopped to help Nardus where he got stuck. As soon as Nardus got traction he just wrung that throttle. He was rattled. "You get stuck here, you get fucked here". Hennie takes some time to extricate his own bike and races off after Nardus. He is last in line and no-one is going to assist him. He has been on reserve for some time already. And like everybody else , he still has to chase the receding waves. If he runs out of fuel while down below, he is fucked.  Fucked! He races at over 100km/h where-ever he gets grip. Either he catches up or he donates his bike to Poseidon.

When he catches up, it's where Nardus is trying to get Fred disentangled from his bike. Hennie doesn't help. He doesn't take a picture (very, very unlike Hennie), he rips the fuel from Nardus's bike and starts filling his tank.

It's new to me, I haven't ever seen the both of them lose it like this.

Out front (and none the wiser) I reach the end of the doodsakker. I'm fucking dilly. The first jackal that doesn't dissapear but just stands there watching me go by, has me waving at him like he's a friendly local. I have to shout at myself in my helmet to get real.

I pull up at the first place where I can get above the high water mark.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198541155-L.jpg)



 Not too long and Michnus joins me. We seriously underestimated the doodsakker. He sucks on his tripper like his life depends on it.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198540882-L.jpg)



 I'm a bit in shock. On every trip you have one or two moments when you overcook things and miss a turn or race into a flock of sheep at breakneck speed; this was like that, except that it continued for for 3 hours with no let up.

Nobody else arrives. My God, how did we fuck this up so badly?




Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JourneyMan on October 04, 2007, 06:44:08 pm
Bliksem! :eek:

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JonW on October 04, 2007, 06:49:18 pm
MJ I have said it before, your reports are mindblowing!

Well done you guys.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Plothond on October 04, 2007, 06:55:24 pm
Liewe donner
This is just getting better and better

What did you have for breakfast - titanium pills ???
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 04, 2007, 06:57:58 pm
I have some stuff to attend to. Back on Monday.

And if the previous post makes me sound like a pussy. I don't care. That was the way I experienced it.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 04, 2007, 07:27:32 pm
If you are worried about sounding like a pussy, you must hear me wimpering just reading about this adventure of yours........REPECT to you all.  :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 04, 2007, 07:33:28 pm
If you are worried about sounding like a pussy, you must hear me wimpering just reading about this adventure of yours........REPECT to you all.  :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:

I do not have words to comment. :tongue9: :tongue9: :tongue1: :tongue7:

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 04, 2007, 07:35:03 pm
I have some stuff to attend to. Back on Monday.

And if the previous post makes me sound like a pussy. I don't care. That was the way I experienced it.

Eish Mate only respect. don't stay to long.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 04, 2007, 07:39:24 pm
I have one question MJ, excuss my ignorence but I think its called neap tide when it goes out further and comes up higher, well for the question, was this the tide at the time that you guys where there?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: topbox on October 04, 2007, 07:43:36 pm
now i understand why it takes so long to update. it's not just a slide show.
i appreciate the effort gone into telling the story such that you convey the tension and anxiety.

thank you !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on October 04, 2007, 08:29:19 pm
Liewe dooie donner!  Julle het gutts!

Thank you, dankie, we admire, we appreciate, we are riveted!

Utmost respect, write a book!

 :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Big-G on October 04, 2007, 08:44:33 pm
Mj i dont think pussy and your name can be used in the same sentence!!!!
I am absolutely blown away by your report,i used to think i was pretty hardcore on my plastic but now I know better...


C'MON MONDAY ALREADY ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: PARAMED on October 04, 2007, 09:36:44 pm
Unf@ck'n Believable.....

This has got me riveted to my seat,sweat gleaming on my brow,a slow,restless angry growl prowling deep within my soul,watching waiting... Just awesome,really.....!!!!!!


Thanks MJ 8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: SGB on October 04, 2007, 09:39:46 pm
Man, what a story.....  It still feels a very long away from "And they lived happily ever after".  How do we get through this weekend?  Can't wait!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Scribble on October 04, 2007, 10:00:59 pm
If you are worried about sounding like a pussy, you must hear me wimpering just reading about this adventure of yours........REPECT to you all.  :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
+1 my ass is puckering just reading this safely at home  :o
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: fire-ant on October 04, 2007, 10:14:41 pm
I am in awe, and humbled. I can relate to some of those experiences - whether in the pics or in writing. I am inspired.

I THANK ALL OF YOU for sharing these moments which is almost too intimate/personal, and emotional, to be put down in words.

 :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 04, 2007, 10:38:26 pm
Wow
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 04, 2007, 11:12:35 pm
I have one question MJ, excuss my ignorence but I think its called neap tide when it goes out further and comes up higher, well for the question, was this the tide at the time that you guys where there?

Don't wanna give it away, MJ will tell you in the next episode of......................Days of our lives. :D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: growweblaar on October 04, 2007, 11:39:50 pm
This is better than movies, books or TV...

:o Charlie Boorman, eat your heart out!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 05, 2007, 07:16:15 am
Moer...

Michnus, MJ, next time I come down to EL for work...I want to check out yoiur ghoenas.... ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: husky on October 05, 2007, 07:41:15 am
I've read one or two 4x4 reports (4x4 overland forum) about that "doodsakker" section and they made my blood run cold.  In them the writers made no bones about being very scared.  I planned to go to Angola and mentally noted that I would never do that section.

I thought it might be easier by bike except for the logistics etc.  You guys have shown that it's like a day in the Dakar but without support.

So I'm hugely impressed and respectful of your courage and daring. Tough men.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 05, 2007, 08:14:21 am
censored....
 :o

i realised afterwards, that my initial response was a bit harsh for the family forum..but it's just such an amazing piece of writing... im still not over it 4 hours later...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: surf on October 05, 2007, 08:19:09 am
I think Trailrider somes it up well with one word :o


WOW :o

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 05, 2007, 08:22:57 am
Freaken GOOSEBUMP stuff man!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LuckyStriker on October 05, 2007, 08:31:18 am
Shivers

I can't wait til Monday
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: tok-tokkie on October 05, 2007, 09:03:08 am
I have one question MJ, excuss my ignorence but I think its called neap tide when it goes out further and comes up higher, well for the question, was this the tide at the time that you guys where there?
Spring tide is what you describe.
Neap tide is the opposite; when there is the least difference between high & low tide.
2 spring (& neap) tides each month - more or less.

MJ: I repeat what I wrote before: you write bloody well.  Brilliant.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: popipants on October 05, 2007, 09:15:41 am
You guys better hope that your wifes does not read this report....otherwise you are going to be in the same boat as Plothond!!

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Wolf on October 05, 2007, 09:54:12 am
Ok that is some awsome shit, the story and the adventure, you okes have some major sized gonads
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: africanSky on October 05, 2007, 10:11:42 am
It's going to be a loooong weekend!Unbelievable report!I vote you become a professional rider / report writer to lighten our dull existences!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on October 05, 2007, 10:48:13 am
Simply awesome. MJ you should write a book I for one would buy it.

Yes I think the only way to descirbe this report is WOW

Thanks again for all the effort in sharing your experience with us.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kev on October 05, 2007, 01:10:35 pm
Damn! :o  :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: logie on October 05, 2007, 01:20:04 pm
A ride like this makes newbies like me so chuffed to have gotten involved in this sport! Thank you for inspiring us to one day have similar adventures, though admittedly I doubt they will be THIS awesome! Fanbloodytastic.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: shark_za on October 05, 2007, 01:48:20 pm
Caught between the sea and a kak place.

Wow! , speechless.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: DaCat on October 05, 2007, 06:25:09 pm
 8) Incredible adventure... I can't wait for the rest of it... excellent writing too  8)

Awesome stuff guys!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: jab2 on October 05, 2007, 07:58:32 pm
Outstanding and well illustrated trip report.

Thanks for taking us mere mortals were we would never go.

 :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: pierrer on October 05, 2007, 09:39:30 pm
I did this route back in 2003 but in the opposite direction in a Landrover and have to admit that the "doods akker" was scary sh!t.  All I can say is RESPECT - as us, I don't know if you guys knew what to expect but looking back now it was an awsome part of the trip.

Having done most of Southern Africa by 4x4 I still rate Angola as my best trip ever. 
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Adventure MX on October 06, 2007, 01:35:53 pm
This is better then a Book! You get pictures to open the portal back into time.

Absolutely riveting!

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 08, 2007, 07:57:49 am
It's Monday...

Jeez, if that guy hasn't drowned by now...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ektoknbike on October 08, 2007, 08:19:10 am
It's Monday...

Jeez, if that guy hasn't drowned by now...

Nee man, hule kan nie nou al gaan staan en versuip nie, wat van die Ride Report. Ek sal my polse sny as die storie nie 'n einde het nie. :angry1: :crybaby2: :crybaby2: :crybaby2: :crybaby2:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: IceCreamMan on October 08, 2007, 10:47:44 am
Ai jai jai

I can just see LostDog - with a glint in his eye

Man, that looks lekker !!!!

Plottie - these guys are hard-core!
My mates have said I better tone things down a bit, else nobody will want to ride with me again. Thinking of taking their advice for a while.

THIS REPORT IS THE SHIT!


HI-Jack, Lost Dog and Plottie I'm in  ;)

My Mates ICM and Co. are not interested. :(

Kark man ... but a strom aint going to survive a trip like this ....would need a DR650 or similar plus time off work .... 
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uncle Bob on October 08, 2007, 11:46:15 am
MJ you'd better hurry up with that report or i'm going to go outside and toy-toy with the rest of the ddose here at UJ.

We want more

We want more

We want more

helelelelelelelelelele

(he shouts as he sets another pile of tyres alight!!)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bmad on October 08, 2007, 12:58:08 pm
This may be the best report, on all forums, of all time.

I vote that no-one posts another comment until we get more >:D >:D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LostDOG on October 08, 2007, 01:07:38 pm
This may be the best report, on all forums, of all time.

I vote that no-one posts another comment until we get more >:D >:D

I second that - now one post anymore!  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: shark_za on October 08, 2007, 01:18:44 pm
Is now a good time to lock down the forum and start charging admission  ;)


Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Groenie on October 08, 2007, 02:30:07 pm
Everytime I check the Ride Reports and see there's a new message posted, I get all excited only to find it was just another pleb that commented......

It's late Monday already, and the world is waiting........
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 08, 2007, 02:32:48 pm
Is now a good time to lock down the forum and start charging admission  ;)

I can see someone wants to get lynched........... >:D ;D or have thier KLR parked sideways up their butt... ;) >:D >:D

signing out ever to post until MJ does
The PLEB ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 08, 2007, 02:35:05 pm
would you plebs stop commenting in this thread!!!!

 ;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uncle Bob on October 08, 2007, 02:46:38 pm
NO!!!

i say we PM metaljockey untill his inbox explodes!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 08, 2007, 02:57:39 pm
He he. Every time someone posts there is a bunch of guys online on this thread.

MJ don't do this to us!!!


 :angry9: :blob10: :evil5:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: toucan on October 08, 2007, 03:46:06 pm
no one has posted in almost an hour. quite impressive.
 8) 8) 8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: surf on October 08, 2007, 03:57:54 pm
no one has posted in almost an hour. quite impressive.
 8) 8) 8)


 :director: stop dit nou...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 08, 2007, 04:40:56 pm
Fokkit manne. I'll leave the replies for later, let me get the next installment primed, stand by.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LuckyStriker on October 08, 2007, 04:43:41 pm
maak gou
dis amper uitvaltyd vir my
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 08, 2007, 04:43:51 pm
Ek check your priorities!
First ADVR and then WildDogs.
Shocking!
 :D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 08, 2007, 04:44:08 pm
Michnus and myself have no idea what's happened behind us. All we know is it can't be good.

When we ride in remote areas such as  this, we always try to be at least three riders. This allows one to stay with an injured rider while the third goes for help. Behind us are three riders but not one of them made it out of the doodsakker. I would expect at least one to come through with an update.

With no-one forthcoming, I can only think of two explanations.
 I was in front and I don't have the GPS. Maybe the route veered away from the beach through an unseen gap in the dune. I very seriously doubt it though. I've been hugging that dune like I hugged Leonie Van Der Walt when she pulled me into her ample bosom the first time at a school dance.
If there was a gap, I would have seen it.
The other reason could be that someone is dead. I cannot think of any other reason that all three bikes will stay away.

We cannot go back. We had hoped that we could all leave Foz do Cunene with a full tank of fuel. This did not happen. Except for one bike, everybody had already started using their last tank in the desert. Fuel moved from being the main priority to being the only priority. On this, both Michnus and myself agree. There's no way we are going to be riding in any direction, but to Tombua.

We can make camp here and wait until tomorrow, but what if they still don't turn up? Then we've wasted a day and we're still in the same position. And it's not like we're overstocked on food either.

Michnus says he still saw Fred's headlight behind him not too far back. Maybe one or two kilometres. So we decide to walk back.

The walking turns out to be little different from the riding. It's more slogging than walking. Every step sinks in. In the beginning we still take a picture or two when we come across something interesting.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198729480-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198729629-L.jpg)




This one is my favourite:
Jackall spoor.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198729808-L.jpg)




After about an hour's walk I climb onto the dune to see if I can get a better view. Surprisingly it's easier to walk on the dune. So we move upstairs.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198557147-L.jpg)




We also get to see what the interior looks like. Damn!

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198574404-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198573441-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198730608-L.jpg)




And we walk and we walk.

Two and a half hours walking brings us upon this scene.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198573861-L.jpg)




We learn of what happened. At this stage we don't know his ankle is broken. Fred isn't willing to take off his boot for fear of not being able to get it back on. Good call. We are over here:

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/203864463-L.jpg)

It's not like we can summon an ambulance. He's gonna need that boot to get out of here.



The twenty minutes or so it took to get Fred and his bike recovered from the sea, had shut the door on the doodsakker. So they decided to ram the bikes as far up the dune as they can and wait out the tide. It would have been plain stupid to try and send one rider through to us.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198557059-L.jpg)








(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198494433-L.jpg)




We are very lucky that the sea is relatively calm. The waves make us nervous but it does not reach the bikes.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198557443-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198730206-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198557680-L.jpg)




I had always reasoned that, worst case scenario, we can always drag the bikes up the dune. Being here it's clear that that was never gonna happen.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198574129-L.jpg)




Fred's bike amazes everyone. The only damage from the cartwheel is a bent handlebar, a throttle that is now manual and some broken indicators. By the time Fred was sorted, the bike had been lying in the waves for probably 15 minutes. Yet it fired into life like nothing untoward had happened. Score! Two problems solved; we do not need to recover a broken bike and Fred has transport.


It's too bad that it had to be Fred. It could have been any of us. Every day so far he had to work three times as hard as the rest of us. Every day so far he had an off. Twice he got hurt. The ankle that now broke is the same one that took the punishment two days before (remember the helmet wedge pic?). Every night he would be pleased at how he exceeded his own abilities that day.

He has a lot to digest whilst lying against this dune. Taking a tumble like that messes with your head quite a bit. By this afternoon when the tide goes out again, he needs to be ready to get back on the bike and once again attack the sand monster. This time with one leg he can't use, bent handlebars and a sticky throttle.

I really feel for him, I feel even worse for not being able to offer any help. He is on his own in this.




We agree that they will try to ride out on the afternoons low tide. If it comes too late they'll catch the next morning's. Me and Michnus should return to our bikes and wait.

We rest for an hour or so and then start the walk back. As we leave we see a grey mass come in from the south. It's a cold wind racing over the Benguela current.

Neither Michnus nor myself can be called fitness freaks. This time it takes longer than two and a half hours. We are so knackered that we stop to rest three times with our bikes already in view. They are filthy dirty. There will have to be a total strip down.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198541053-L.jpg)




This foul wind is icy cold and we pitch tents to get out of it.




The poor bastards against the dune don't have that luxury.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198574571-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198574742-L.jpg)




Beach holiday my ass.




Late that afternoon we hear the bikes over the wind. They made it. While we pull our tents down Nardus is doing his 'Tough Biker' impression.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198541568-L.jpg)




While the rest of us kick the shit out of my bike, Hennie and Fred gets going. While he can, he must ride. They'll wait for us where the route veers back into the interior.
When we finally get going the riding is suddenly easy. We still ride the wet stuff but there is grip in most places and we can get the speed up nicely. There's also a wide beach to run to when the waves come in.

As the afternoon slows into  a sunset, one after the other the bikes start hitting reserve. We are still carrying about 7 litres in containers. Everybody knows how far his bike can go on reserve and we only stop for fuel when empty is imminent. We start sharing out the fuel at about a litre a time. We know we might not make it but now we are close enough to Tombua to walk out in one or two days max. It may be unpleasant, but it is do-able.




Along the beach the scenery is spectacular. It is really enjoyable riding. In our country all beach riding is banned. We are getting our fill now.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198557819-L.jpg)




At the final wreck Hennie and Fred is waiting.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198494560-L.jpg)




When we get there, the day is gone.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198541734-L.jpg)




 It is here that we turn inland. With the wind, camping does'nt look like such a peachy idea. We decide to keep going.

As Fred tries to clear the shelf dropping onto the beach he goes down. He goes down on the sore leg. I feel it. This would not to be the last time. If you cannot use your leg to steady the bike, then that's the side you will fall onto more often.

It gets dark. My bike has no lights and neither does Hennie's. We are riding in the desert again on a reasonable track with the odd sandy stretch. It's not that pleasant without lights. But it is possible for us to get to Tombua tonight still. It's been three days since we've seen a beer.

We suddenly hit a tall dune and Fred just plain flies up it. Both me and Hennie have to take more than one run at it. Looks like Fred wants to get to Tombua without any fannying about.

I find that riding sand blind is actually easier as I do not see the sandy bits coming. I only feel it and respond. Who would've guessed.

In the mean time, our reserve fuel is no more. The next bike that runs out, runs out. It's just incredible that we can cut it this close after 6 days of riding over all kinds of terrain.

Five guys caress their throttles in the most sensitive manner. We roll into Tombua on fumes and millilitres. We pull straight into the filling station. Relief! Shit, we made it. We're back in civilisation. People all over!

We are filthy and fucking tired. Tombua is a fishing port. I know that there is no accomodation, not even a camp site. But once again the good people of Angola humble us. We ask a car at the fuel station where we could sleep. He takes us to a mate of his called Ze. Ze speaks English, he has a factory that we can sleep at. He directs us first to a restaurant, promising to fetch us when we are finished eating.

We chuck down beers like oysters. We eat food prepared by someone. Meat. Man, it's difficult to describe what one feels. When Ze fetches us and takes us to his factory grounds, I feel like I have a father again, looking out for me. Showering will have to wait till the next day when the factory generator is started. We pitch our tents and pass out.




Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 08, 2007, 04:55:08 pm
HOLY SHIT
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 08, 2007, 04:58:16 pm
Wow. :o

Next? ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Joyride on October 08, 2007, 04:58:53 pm
F#kkit, this is awesome stuff. All that afk@k and suddenly it gets better, but it could get worse again at any moment.

Isn't this what adventure is all about?

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Biesie on October 08, 2007, 05:02:04 pm
I'm sitting here with tears in my eyes ...what an unf**kin' believeable journey ... MJ & co. BBBBBBBBBEEEEEEEEEEGGGGGGGGGGG RESCECT  :notworthy: :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on October 08, 2007, 05:03:34 pm
Unbelievable ... I salute you guys.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kaboef on October 08, 2007, 05:08:34 pm
You getting satisfaction from this Metaljockey? :-\
Us panting like little puppies around your feet for more. :D

Damn, what a ride.
Farking huge respect. 8) 8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Operator on October 08, 2007, 05:21:58 pm
This thread is like a soap opera.........

"Like sand through the hourglass, so are the days of our lives"


 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

I'm not complaining, keep it coming, keep it coming..................


Very enjoyable reading!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Eisbein on October 08, 2007, 05:23:16 pm
Wow.

Speechless.

Just farking wow...

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: David van Breda on October 08, 2007, 05:30:04 pm
Ja-nee,

Long Way Round my ass!  This is just amazing . . .
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Operator on October 08, 2007, 05:43:26 pm
Ja-nee,

Long Way Round my ass!  This is just amazing . . .

Long Way Round.................Never heard about them........
Should I know them ?       ...... cause they sure as hell can't have better pics than this?
 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 08, 2007, 05:52:15 pm
Balls, must be Elephant balls. Fred must be one hell of a tough man, respect.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: topbox on October 08, 2007, 06:04:10 pm

This one is my favourite:
Jackall spoor.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198729808-L.jpg)


Sure you could make a T-shirt or wallpaper/tiles out of this print
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: popipants on October 08, 2007, 06:16:03 pm
Were NOT worthy!!!
 :o :o :o :o :o
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: IceCreamMan on October 08, 2007, 06:27:21 pm
MJ , a previous ride report of yours which i read at ADVrider i rated as the best i had ever read ...an until this one that was the case ...this one surpasses that by a long way.

All respect to you okes and i look forward sometime in the future to reading a RR from you that surpasses this one...

now hurry up with the next installment  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Toni on October 08, 2007, 06:48:33 pm
Wow manne, heck we are busy with planning for an Angola trip in April. If it is anything remotely as hectic as your trip mj, well then I am FU@KED as I have only started riding in Jan = 10 months exp.

Utmost respect for what you guys did, but I am too lazy,old, not exp to attempt anything like that, but Angola here we come in April 2008(all be it with fingers crossed and praying everyday) 

Hijack on
p.s. we mght still have one or 2 places due to cancelations, anyone interested contact me.

Hijack off
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 08, 2007, 07:08:47 pm
There was a lot of LWD support when it was going on, some of us just stayed quiet, this report just swallows the LWD and spits it out in tiny little marketing pieces.

Welsh  8) 8) 8)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Andy660 on October 08, 2007, 10:28:52 pm
Awsome pics and written so well,I am glued to the pc.Hope all is well with fred !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 08, 2007, 11:12:21 pm

I just have to add these few pictures to Metaljockey's report.

Fred stopped me, there was something wrong with his bike, just the ABS acting up from all the sand. Well, we didnâ??t ride with the ABS off, just was too much of a hassle to put it off every time we started again.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199242166-L.jpg)

Seawater is not your friend.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195966538-L.jpg)

Now, this is the thing, I don't believe in walking if you can ride, that's why humankind evolved and invented the wheel. But seeing our predicament, I will do what have to be done and take a stroll with Metaljockey back to where I last seen Fred behind me.

I honestly thought it was only a mile or two from where we were, huuuge mistake, all the adrenalin and tension buggers around with your mind. It ended up being a return journey of 9 miles (14km). Well for the most that's nothing, but we are really tired from the ride, our energy levels are low and ploughing through the sand with biking boots is not fun.

It is a eerie feeling leaving your bike, with all your supplies and walk along a desert and a coast that has no mercy for anything, even with MJ there, you know you are bloody alone, it's really a very weird uncomfortable feeling.

Never had I felt scared and absolutely happy at the same time, it's a privilege to experience the beauty and loneliness thatâ??s there, day after day, and civilisation can't encroach there, they can't destroy it, it's ruthless, it's one place mankind can't live, can't build malls.

 
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195940307-L.jpg)

Metaljockey's bike is standing closest to the sea, before we left we moved his bike up to where mine is standing, just in case, because high tide was still coming in.

When we came back the water had just missed our bikes, if we left his bike standing there, it would have been buried in the sand.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195940457-L.jpg)

On our way back and we are really tired and hungry. I lost my hat a few days before and the sun screws with me big time.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195967731-L.jpg)

Back at our bikes, we have some comfort, our friends are alive and well.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199252704-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ektoknbike on October 09, 2007, 05:51:41 am

Respect :notworthy:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 09, 2007, 06:55:07 am
Bitter goeie report......the best do far....awesome trip.  ;)

Just a dumb question. Would riding over/on the dunes and not next to the sucking/holding on/wet seasand...would that not been easier? Meaning just behind the big dunes that line the doodsakker paralel with the sea?

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: surf on October 09, 2007, 09:16:43 am
Ouens, unfarkinbelievable. :o

I'm reading this to some of my colleagues, they are sitting around me like a couple of 4 year olds, listening to the teacher reading a fairytale.
More-more, one shouts...

Respect guys, respect...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 09, 2007, 09:31:48 am
well... this just keeps getting better and better.

Im with welsh on this one. THe stuff you see on tv is just marketing...supposed reality...they have no farking idea...backup van medical support all that shit...

You are the adventurers , we are all wannabe's.

Respect. It's amazing what one can do when there is no comfy way out..Fred has some real big gonads for riding that bike with a broken ankle. Good call on keeping the boot on.

Cant wait for more...

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grunt on October 09, 2007, 09:44:33 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/199252704-L.jpg)

Nice 'holiday-by-the-sea' snap this. Like you haven't got a care in the world.

Surreal

Hey, but this trip is nothing like that. The drama just goes on and on. It really is fantastic stuff.

Well done to all of you.








Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: David van Breda on October 09, 2007, 09:50:44 am
The amazing thing about this report is the high quality pictures!  If I am in such a farked-up state (believe me I would have been if i had to do this ;D!!), I would probably not have bothered with pictures!

I'd love to attend a lekker B&B slideshow with all the guys on this trip and listen to them relating the story . . . !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 09, 2007, 08:48:38 pm
Bitter goeie report......the best do far....awesome trip.  ;)

Just a dumb question. Would riding over/on the dunes and not next to the sucking/holding on/wet seasand...would that not been easier? Meaning just behind the big dunes that line the doodsakker paralel with the sea?



On top of the dunes some stretches are fairly compact, but the back side are just soft desert sand, with huge dunes and huge drop offs.
At least close to the water edge it's hard pack and easy to ride.  The problem was the tide we underestimated and the time you need to complete the section.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: fire-ant on October 09, 2007, 09:12:15 pm
Bitter goeie report......the best do far....awesome trip.  ;)

Just a dumb question. Would riding over/on the dunes and not next to the sucking/holding on/wet seasand...would that not been easier? Meaning just behind the big dunes that line the doodsakker paralel with the sea?



On top of the dunes some stretches are fairly compact, but the back side are just soft desert sand, with huge dunes and huge drop offs.
At least close to the water edge it's hard pack and easy to ride.  The problem was the tide we underestimated and the time you need to complete the section.

+1,

and they are extremely dangerous with unexpected massive blind drops (both barkhan and longitudinal dunes), resulting in being paralized or death when "flying blind over the edge".
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on October 09, 2007, 10:35:20 pm
MJ thanks for the update, I am sitting in a wet and dreary England and your report is just the thing to make me long to go back home and ride.

Awesome stuff guys, no question as to this being the best report I have ever read. Thanks again for all the effort in sharing and yes please keep it coming....
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 10, 2007, 06:36:07 am



The next morning we have a look at Fred's ankle. It's an unpretty thing that balloons out both sides, but he is able to wriggle his toes and to move his foot up and down ever so slightly.
So our combined 'expert' opinion is that it's only the ligaments that went. It may be a bad sprain but a sprain none the less. And if it's a sprain there's no purpose in seeking medical help, they'll just tape it up and that we can do ourselves.

Our accomodation in Ze's factory.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198542161-L.jpg)




We also do a post mortem on the ride and hindsight shows us where we went wrong. The reason the riding was so much easier in the afternoon, is that we started riding on the ebb. In other words it was not yet low tide, this gives us a better quality of sand to ride and gives us extra time. It took us three hours to do the run against the dune. We started just after low tide and we were racing the incoming tide, which just squeezed the breath out of us.

What we should have done is to schedule the whole trip around this section so that we could utilize Spring Low Tide. If we then departed on the ebb, it would have been a lot safer, time wise. As it happenend, we were there 2 or 3 days after Neap Tide. We couldn't leave earlier as it was still dark. Even before we left that morning, we were already doomed. Our planning let us down.



We get to rinse the bikes with fresh water. And they need it badly. This is the back side of the 950's radiator.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198574863-L.jpg)




Hennie and myself construct a jumper cable that plugs into his power outlet. My bike gets it connected and carried externally so we don't have to take the seat off every time we need to use it. It does'nt work, as it overheats, but we learn a very important thing. The starter goes 'tchigdrrrrrrrrrrrrrr'. That's the sound of a flat battery. So it's not the starter, solenoid, relay, ignition, or any of a myriad other possibilities. All the other options have now been eliminated. I feel massively better. It's not the bike. It's the battery. And so I learn that a battery can have the headlights shining strongly, yet still be unservicable and short out once a bigger load is put on it.

Ze takes me to an outdoor market and there between the bras, panties, pots and pangas we find three motorcycle batteries. Two tiny 2.5As and one, still not that big, 6A one. My bike needs an 8A battery but this will have to do. I fill it and put it in my bag to charge up properly. I'll fit it in Namibe, the next town.

Some local biker brothers.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198731038-L.jpg)




Tombua is the first sizable town we get to and we learn a couple of things.
We learn that people are happy to go out of their way to help. Ze had taken a good portion out of his evening to take us around, he had let us sleep in his factory, he let us wash our bikes, he arranged for hot showers, he took Nardus around to change Dollars to Kwanza, he took me around to find a battery. This is a man with a factory to run and a family etc. We owe him. He intends to start a tourism business soon. Tombua is ripe for it.
We learn that if you want to run a business, you must generate your own power. The Municipal power is on for perhaps 3 or 4 hours during the day, on a good day. This turned out to be so, not only in Tombua, but throughout the country.
On the issue of changing money; in Angola it is illegal to import Kwanza. In other words you are not allowed to obtain their currency outside the country and bring it with you through the border. Consequently you have to obtain your Kwanza once you are in the country. The problem is that their banking system is not linked to any foreign banks. So even though the bigger towns may have ATMs, we will not be able to draw money from them. The solution is to carry your whole budget in US Dollars, it is accepted most places and the conversion rate is easy to calculate; 10 Kwanza to the Rand and 7 Rand to the Dollar.
We also learn that the people here are of a different calibre than back home. The town centre consists mostly of abandoned buildings and potholes. There is no lighting as there is no electricity. When we were at the restaurant the previous night, our bikes was parked in the dark outside, with all our gear on, surrounded by twenty or so youngsters. When we mentioned our concern for theft, it provoked surpised laughter. Nothing was touched, we still got up now and again to have a look, but here we were the freaks for being so suspicious.



We leave Tombua and head to Namibe on a tarred road.

Normally I detest tar when on the 640, but it is novel and I enjoy sitting back and just letting the bike get on with it. Angolans drive on the 'wrong' side of the road however, so everytime I see a vehicle approach my stomache gives a slight turn.

Namibe turns out to be a major town. As we pull in, we stop to get something to eat and we have the most fantastic pastries. We notice a lot of Portuguese come in and drink what looks like cappucino and whisky as a combination. We also have guys pose next to our bikes for photo's. they appear to be well-off and drive new 4x4s and wear Ferrari branded clothing. This is clearly a more affluent town and it shows. The roads are better, we see a traffic cop and the place has many bars, pubs and discos.

We head to the beach front to find accomodation and we find a restaurant where we grind to a halt.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198575029-L.jpg)




The service is excellent and having the prettiest waitresses in town does'nt hurt either.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198575441-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198731150-L.jpg)




The beach.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198575208-L.jpg)




We spend the whole day on this veranda spending a large part of our budget. Money well spent I say.

We are entertained by this guy doing all sorts of tricks at breakneck speed.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198558066-L.jpg)

My favourite is when he comes past with his legs over the handlebars, his hands behind his head as if he's sitting on a sofa, keeping the throttle open with his calf. We stop taking pictures though because we can just see that this lot is going to end badly if we keep on encouraging him.


We just loved the local bicycle gang. All with impressive skills.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198495155-L.jpg)



That is another thing we notice. It looks like children here have the time and space to play. We see unsupervised groups of 8yr olds swimming at the beach and playing games. Where I stay that would be out of the question.

We find camping for R50 a person ($7). We are the only people there.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198731529-L.jpg)




Fred's ankle appears to be worse than the previous day and he is clearly in a lot of pain. As soon as we've eaten, he heads off to take a lie down.

We have high expectations from Namibe. It's Africa, it's Portuguese, it's by the seaside, and we know there will be many clubs and young people partying. And the locals we have seen so far are sensational. What we forget is that we are not that young anymore. A long story short - we wander the streets looking for a good time from 19:00 to 23:00 by which time we are so tired we go to bed. The night life in Namibe starts at midnight. I kid you not. At midnight people only start going out. Then they party untill 6 or 7 in the morning.

So, to my utter embarrassment, we fade and have nothing to show of Namibe.

I apologise.




Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: PARAMED on October 10, 2007, 06:56:29 am
MJ another great update buddy, Great to see the hospitality of these people that have nothing,we can all learn something from their example!
Must have been a relief to be in a town with most ammenities,a treat I am sure...

Great to see that tourism potential is being harvested,it could only benifit the local economy!

Well done again to you and the crew,glad Fred is Mobile,sort of,anyway! ;D

Cheers B
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on October 10, 2007, 07:05:37 am
Thank you for the update.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: shark_za on October 10, 2007, 07:22:44 am
Lekka, looks a lot like Moz.
Colonization has that effect.
 
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 10, 2007, 07:30:14 am
Keep it coming!  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Plothond on October 10, 2007, 07:30:49 am
aaah, Thankyou !!!

Now I can go to the Rallye Raid in peace   ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on October 10, 2007, 07:58:45 am
This one is the BEST!!! I've also been reading the post on ADVrider... and can honestly agree with one of the US blokes comment - "MJ must be published"!!! It's GOOD!!  8) 8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 10, 2007, 08:10:22 am
Great reading as always!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Wolf on October 10, 2007, 09:44:18 am
More More More please
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 10, 2007, 10:18:41 am
Lekka, looks a lot like Moz.
Colonization has that effect.
 

Shark beleive me Angola as far as people go is nothing like Moz, they are so much freindlier in Angola, that is one of the things that amazed me the most when I first visited especially knowing about the war that they had to go through , the only similarity might be the buildings.

Thanks for the info on the Tides MJ.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Operator on October 10, 2007, 10:33:25 am
Lekka, looks a lot like Moz.
Colonization has that effect.
 

It does look alot like Moz !!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: IceCreamMan on October 12, 2007, 09:53:12 am
Ahem ....next installment please
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 12, 2007, 09:54:55 am
Mj said only on monday (on ADV rider)

another long weekend.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KwaggA on October 12, 2007, 10:09:10 am
Eish...

I am not lus to work...so i need the story to read and keep me out of work for a while.....
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Whethefakawe on October 12, 2007, 08:52:33 pm
I'll say again: now THAT'S an adventure ride! :occasion14:

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: IceCreamMan on October 13, 2007, 12:03:30 am
Lekka, looks a lot like Moz.
Colonization has that effect.
 

ke???
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ned_da_biker on October 13, 2007, 03:18:56 pm
The Absolute Best Report Ever!

Moerse Bedonderd!  :wav: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :headbang:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: B.V. on October 13, 2007, 04:13:01 pm
Mj said only on monday (on ADV rider)

another long weekend.

Now this is useless. How long is it going to take to finish this ride report??????
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 13, 2007, 04:25:52 pm
Mich, just for interest and not takin da piss. Did you guys lose weight / body mass whatever on the trip?

Welsh  8) 8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 13, 2007, 04:42:07 pm
HAHAHA  ;D I had lots to loose and got rid of a bit of weight, we had more problems with dehydration than food. Beer and water can keep you going for a good while :D

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 13, 2007, 05:07:03 pm
HAHAHA  ;D I had lots to loose and got rid of a bit of weight, we had more problems with dehydration than food. Beer and water can keep you going for a good while :D



As I said I acually did mean it as a serious question not a piss take, so yes dehydration the bigger issue.

Welsh  ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bobnob on October 13, 2007, 05:08:34 pm
great stuff guys!!!

 ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

one of these days. one of these days.  :o
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Python on October 14, 2007, 08:15:28 pm
Wow what a trip you guys ...... nice to hear you get friendlies further north........ that beach ride sounded frightning - well done :black_knight_standing: you conquered it.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Wolf on October 15, 2007, 01:41:18 pm
Ok so it is now Monday afternoon and still no update,,, don't keep us in suspense like this
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on October 15, 2007, 05:03:56 pm
Yeah - c'mon... seems u looking after the ADVriders first..?  >:D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Adventurer on October 15, 2007, 05:48:55 pm
Yeah - c'mon... seems u looking after the ADVriders first..?  >:D

Then let me the first to say....FARK THE YANKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Zonkelnut on October 15, 2007, 06:01:57 pm
OK. I did not want to check this ride report. I knew that I would be so pissed at not doing it. I told Michnus that this is that illusive ride that I just never could do. You oaks know me as one that would take this ride on my own any day. But with all hats off and with huge respect and gratitude to those 5, well done.

I will never ever forgive you for what you have done. I will never ever read a ride report from michnus or Metal ever in my life again. If you understand the spirit between michnus, Metal and me, you will understand.

Sorry boys, but this is wrong. For the last month I tried not to read this report. But I did and what I expected same true. You beat me to the punch.

I do not know the rest but always wanted to ride with Sharkie, I did. The last to be Metal and michnus. And I did not.  OK, out of sour grapes, Michnus and MetalJ, this report roads and sh1te are for sissies!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

You bastards!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Just because my wife found the way to control me, I might never do this. But one day â?¦ one dayâ?¦ Ag hell, WELL DONE OAKS!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Dirt Dog on October 15, 2007, 06:34:54 pm
Awesome thread, borders on lunacy. :o
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 16, 2007, 07:43:47 am

The one thing I love about these trips is that you learn new stuff all the time. Yesterday I learned that battery acid stains my pants white when rinsed with water, and black when rinsed with Angolan beer. This kind of stuff can come in handy some day.

So the new battery is fitted, the starter swings over and an angel choir breaks out in song. My inner thighs says a quiet thank you, they have'nt been looking forward to this mornings kicking session. To atone for my sinfull thoughts towards the bike, I wash the airfilter and coat it with some very expensive synthetic oil. Nothing like starting the day with the smell of petrol on your hands.

Fred's day starts with a trip around town looking for a pair of crutches. If he stops hobbling around on that foot, maybe the 'sprain' will be less painfull. Again there is a local that goes out of his way to take them around to the hospital and Fred returns with a very expensive pair of WWII steel crutches. Apparently the hospital was a less than pleasant experience and he tells us of several malaria cases being brought in while they were there and of one that was tied to a bed etc.

There's another thing I forgot to mention, the restaurant that we were at, had a guard standing around outside. When it became dark he appeared with an AK47 over his shoulder. So did the caretaker at the camp grounds. Also, when we were roaming the town, every so often we would find someone stationed on a corner with a chair and an assault rifle. Whether it was police or some civil guarding system I don't know. It appears they take safety and security seriously here. For us however it is strange to see, in our country it is only government forces that are allowed to possess fully automatic rifles. And AK47's are only ever seen in the hands of criminals. We felt very safe though.

After breakfast we reluctantly take our leave from Namibe, none more so than Nardus. Just like Monte Negro, he campaigns valiantly to stay another day.

Once again we have good tarrred road under our wheels and we watch the scenery change from yellow desert to scraggy brush to proper bushveld with Baobabs etc. In Namibe it was cold, but as the scenery changes so too does the temperature and we are forced to stop and get rid of some clothing.

Our plan for the day is to reach Lubango and sleep in the bush somewhere on the other side of it. As we start the bikes mine is dead.       Dead.
The new battery is of as much use as a rock. Son of a beige! Now it could be the bike again. Maybe the alternator charges the batteries to a frazzle. This one only lasted a couple of hundred km's. It's very possible because over the past 12 mnths I fitted 3 new batteries to this piece of shit bike.

This time kicking is futile. It's hot. Hennie takes a meditative approach to the kicking.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198731645-L.jpg)



Finally we decide to run-start seeing as there is a tarred surface. The compression is too much to run it in 1st or 2nd and the wheel just locks up. In 3rd the engine turns over too slowly to get the thing to run.

The trick is to get a good run (with your mates pushing), then hook it into second (with your mates still pushing), then drop the clutch in 2nd whilst still holding the decompression lever in (with your mates giving their all), let it turn over a couple of times like that (with your mates hating your guts but still pushing), and then drop the decompression lever whilst jumping on the pegs to get traction. Surprisingly tricky to get your left hand to follow the sequence.

That's the way to go if you want to piss your mates off. Have them push your bike around, in the sun, with you on the seat, and periodically fuck up the sequence between the in gear/out of gear, clutch and decomp, with the lovely expectation that this may be the situation for the rest of the trip.

We get the bike started though, but it is clearly not a happy chappie. It is not keen to start, not keen to idle and only seem to be OK when given a handfull.

At least we are going to Lubango. It's the second largest city in Angola. Mechanics and bike batteries ought to abound.

Next to the road we notice that the locals are wearing a different traditional dress than before. The woman are still going topless but generally have small breasts which are tied down with cloth or string. I really should do a little research beforehand, the experience is always enhanced by knowing the local customs and colour.

Between us and Lubango stands an escarpment rising 2km from the plains. Up it winds Leba pass. It's fantastic. Go see it.

We did not get good pictures as we were there in the heat if the day but here are some.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198731777-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198495682-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198495909-L.jpg)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198558619-L.jpg)



When we get to Lubango we head straight to Cristo Rei. I think it translates to 'Christ the Redeemer'. It is a copy of the statue on Corcovado Mountain in Rio De Janeiro. I'm told it's one of three, the other being in Lisbon. This one is also situated on a mountain overlooking the city.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198576621-L.jpg)



It is however unique, it is the only one to be riddled with bullet holes. Using Jesus for target practice... only in Africa.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198496022-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198542731-L.jpg)



On top of the same hill there are still some remnants of the city's defences. We used to call this a Stalin Organ (like the musical instrument, not the penis).

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198496197-L.jpg)



Down below we can see the city sprawling and it is fascinating to hear it grumble. It's like a living animal.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198543082-L.jpg)


I hate cities. To me they are just large containers for the desperate. Out in the rural areas one can be poor, but still live with integrity and self respect. I normally avoid cities like the plague when on a bike trip. Today I need what it offers though and so we descend.



Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uiltjie on October 16, 2007, 08:05:55 am
Thanx again MJ, you made us wait.....but thanx!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Extreme Velcro on October 16, 2007, 08:08:17 am
That's a ROAD!!!!!!!!!  OOOOOOO liewe aarde - its one I would take at 10 kays an hour - I'm feeling ill just looking at it !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 16, 2007, 08:13:06 am

I hate cities. To me they are just large containers for the desperate. Out in the rural areas one can be poor, but still live with integrity and self respect.

+1
Well said, a stunning discription

Thanks for sharing this experience with us meer mortals  :)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: BigEd on October 16, 2007, 08:24:56 am
Been rivited from day 1 - this report is bad for produtivity but GREAT for me >:D

Thanks MJ. Are the mags/rags banging down the door to publish you? I would. The pics tell a story of their own, but your words really make this..."containers for the desparate". Wow! What a phrase! You are a poet.

We are not worthy... :'(
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: growweblaar on October 16, 2007, 09:29:21 am
Thanks, MJ. I read the ADVRider version yesterday just for the comments from the rest of the world!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Biesie on October 16, 2007, 09:39:48 am
Man ...I want to cash in my retirement fund and hit the road .... MJ this is my daily fix !! I just can't get enough !!!! Brilliant !!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Wolf on October 16, 2007, 09:45:59 am
MJ Thanks for the continuation, I have been waiting eagerly
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Groenie on October 16, 2007, 12:39:31 pm
Aag nee f0k man.... skryf nou jou storie klaar. ASSEBLIEF!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 16, 2007, 12:56:35 pm
Thanks, MJ. I read the ADVRider version yesterday just for the comments from the rest of the world!

Also did that.
Turned out to be a bad idea as it took me most of the morning.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: surf on October 16, 2007, 11:28:10 pm
Great stuff, lekke, lying in bed reading the best ride report ever, on my cell. I love technology ;) ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: DaCat on October 17, 2007, 04:16:02 am
... looking at that piece of twisty road just gave me a hard-on  :-[ ;D ... I would've gone up and down a few times to make sure it was okay  ;D

As for "Christo Rei", the direct translation would be "Christ King"  ;)

Shout if you need any other Porra translations  ;)

... I can't wait for the rest of this report  8)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 18, 2007, 07:55:10 am




Like so much else on this trip, Lubango turns out to be a surprise highlight.

We intended to stop for fuel, a battery and some fresh vegetables and be on our way. In the heat and slow riding my bike starts acting up big time however. I have to rev the thing above 4000 in order to keep it going. When it stalls it takes a many attempts at run-starting to get it going.

Where we were of the opinion that it's not too difficult to ride on the 'wrong' side of the road, we now find it very confusing. With heavy traffic, one-ways and roundabouts things look a lot different. Also, most of the crossings do not have stop signs, some have signs that indicate whether you are on the bigger or smaller of the intersecting roads.

We don't find a battery and I'm getting increasingly steamed up. In the afternoon the bike becomes so bad that Hennie has to pull me with a tow rope up and down a sidestreet. This is very funny (hopefully someday) because before we came on this trip, everyone was concerned about Hennie's bike, which was well used already. His response was that he was still going to be towing a KTM out of Angola. Imagine my pleasure at being towed by Hennie's bike in Angola.

While all this is going on Nardus gets on with socializing.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732020-L.jpg)



When the bike finally starts I just want to get out of the city. Luckily my mates have cooler heads and they decide to find a place to sleep so that my bike can be dealt with properly the next day.

We book in at Casper Lodge to camp. Not the most atmospheric place.

When the rest go out to hit the town, I just go to bed, this bike is burning my ring.




The next morning we start with repairs. Fred is still riding with a bent handlebar and a manual throttle. This gets sorted out with some teamwork.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198543497-L.jpg)




I wonder why the throttle was sticking?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732140-L.jpg)




I start stripping the bike with the intention of getting the carb out and re-setting the float level and cleaning jets out.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198559533-L.jpg)



As soon as the tank is off though, I find the problem. It's that choke elbow again. This time I cable tie it in place and I set the adjuster on the choke as loose as it will go. Why the hell the adjuster is located under the tank, I don't know. So I start another day with petrol hands but a light heart because the bike is back to normal, idling away and pulling strongly from closed throttle like it should.

Amazing what a little bit of attention can do to a bike.

Hennie and myself goes off to find a multimeter so that we can trace the battery problem. This turns out to be one hell of a job involving all kinds, including using an incorrectly calibrated multimeter and getting lost around town with a helmetless mechanic perched on top of my luggage behind me and finally tracking down a working multimeter at a backyard mechanic's place in a shanty town. All this being made excruciatingly difficult by not being able to speak portuguese.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198559661-L.jpg)




But to my utter and uninhibited joy, we can finally rule out the bike as the problem. The alternator pushes a beautiful clean 13.4V. Even now I feel the joy of that moment. And again I have to apologise to the bike.

Next stop, to find a battery. This turns out to be a problem. We decide that I will wait with the bike and Hennie will scour town for the necessary. As I wait I learn new things again. That in the middle of the city, the old and new continue to live side by side.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732360-L.jpg)



I learn again that Angolan people are different than where I come from. My bike is left unattended with al my gear in a busy street and no-one touches it.
Several people approach me and offer their help, giving me directions and phone numbers of people they think may be able to assist (still with the language problem).

As I wait a Varadero pulls up. It turns out to be José. José turns out to be able to speak reasonable English! José is the president of the local bike club!!
What? Angola! A bike club?!!
One would think that this is as good as it gets. But it gets better. They have a clubhouse with bar and accomodation!!!

We go to their spot and have a cold beer foisted upon us. Here's what to look for.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198543917-L.jpg)



Yes, the club is called the Falcons.

The other 3 have been patiently waiting at a bar on the road out of town for about 4 hours already. When we sms them about the biker bar they arrive within what felt like seconds. It's like coming home. Within minutes our plans to leave town as soon as a battery is found, is scuppered. We want to stay.

José takes me to various places to look for a battery. There is no shop that sells big bike batteries so we do the rounds to the local quad riders (apparently quite active over there) to see if any one has a spare battery. They don't but I do break one of my personal rules - never to ride on the back of a bike (it's a long story). And I break it in style, being paraded around Lubango without a helmet looking like Tom Cruise's floozy. This is José.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732710-L.jpg)



In the end José cuts open his battery holder to take the oversize battery he once personally fetched from Namibia, and I get the Vara's battery. It's a huge frikken thing and won't fit under my seat so we modify some cables and it gets carried in the saddle bag. Instead of 8A it is 20A. If this thing does'nt make this motor spin like a sewing machine nothing will.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198560295-L.jpg)



José impressed me no end. One hell of a nice guy. I owe him. He tells us of his history. He never fled the country in 1976 when Portugal withdrew. Some bad things happened to the whites that stayed then. He stayed and later served in the army and is now a Major.

This gets us to the final one of my concerns. Like I said, the war finally came to an end only 5 years ago. Even though our country withdrew in 1989, we do not know what kind of residual feelings there are towards South Africans. Keep in mind that we invaded them, and spent 13 years operating on their turf, fighting a variety of factions, the most relevant of which the current ruling party. The government.

Four of the five of us had done military service in Angola at some or other stage. Now we are here to holiday. It may be a problem for some.

That does not include José though. He sees us as bikers, friends. He clearly has put some work into putting things in perspective.










I don't really know how to explain all this and I don't even know if it should be dwelt on here. I will say only this.

José was wounded by a battallion I served in.

He showed me the Imperial Hotel in town.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198544101-L.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198544310-L.jpg)

Those holes was made by our planes.

We do a lot of talking that afternoon. We learn a lot of things we didn't know. The main thing I learn is that there are several emotions that have not yet been named. I'll leave it at that.










The bar is open to the public but the under cover parking right in front is reserved for bikes only.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198733172-L.jpg)



By the way, José now imports trucks. You pay per meter deck space. So this is how you save on shipping costs.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732824-L.jpg)



They are very proud of this '69 Honda. At night it's lights are switched on.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198496347-L.jpg)



We spend the entire afternoon seated and quaffing 'Ngola's.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732589-L.jpg)




Beers and entertainment, this guy can make that saw sing. Anything.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198577058-L.jpg)




On the left, playing the saw is another José. Let's call him Jo. He fought alongside José for most of the war. They are inseperable. Jo is a helluva lekker ou. He makes a point of enjoying every moment to the full. Focussed on having a good time. My kinda guy.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198560115-L.jpg)




He is one hell of a singer too. Think Axl Rose crossed with Louis Armstrong.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198577145-L.jpg)

This afternoon was just getting surreal man.



Fred's ankle getting some medical attention. Vinegar to get the swelling down. Just for the record - not very effective.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198559895-L.jpg)




The bar also has a braai area and a resident cook. We feel like some chicken and it is duly delivered.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198496446-L.jpg)




They are left to wander around the dinner tables until later in the afternoon when they are knocked out with a kierie in amongst the guests. Another first for me. Having your dish killed in between the tables at a restaurant.

One of our waitresses and a niece of José's.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198577583-L.jpg)




Another of José's nieces.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198496569-L.jpg)




And our chicken dinner.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198497116-L.jpg)




The later it gets, the better it gets, the Falcons is not only a bike club but also a band.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198732952-L.jpg)



At some stage a drunk Hennie gets onto the stage with his Dakar (after having fallen over in the parking lot) and proceed to ramp off it, which he does successfully, but fails to hit the brakes and hits a wall instead. Funny as all hell, they must've heard us laugh up at Cristo Rei.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198496701-L.jpg)



It was a hell of a night.

Later on things became a bit strange.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198577221-L.jpg)



We sleep right there amongst the tables after everyone had gone.

Lubango. Who would have thought.

Angola, it's not like they said.





Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 18, 2007, 08:08:04 am


Ok, I can't let this shit go.




Allow me to introduce the band.

On drums - Jo, took eleven bullets in the leg, some of them tracers, twelve years now and the leg still weeps puss every so often.

On vocals and lead guitar, José, shot by my people.

On backup guitar - (can't recall his name), spent three days in an upside down, shot out tank with the bodies of seven of his crew and his leg broken in seven places.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198733059-L.jpg)



These are the people we were supposed to kill.

What a fucking waste it would have been.

How wrong it would have been.






Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Extreme Velcro on October 18, 2007, 08:10:49 am
I am so glad you are still here to tell this tale..... ;D :'( ;D and to be able to become friends.

Ag man, I'm getting all emosioneel !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 18, 2007, 08:14:34 am
Jeeez MJ.. it's not the kinda thing you think to walk into... talking with your hosts, about the shit our cuntry did to them.

there's still some shit to be said...

"He clearly has put some work into putting things in perspective. "

i know a couple of individuals who will not be able to do the same.

maybe there is hope still for mankind (sounds like a cheesy american movie line)

awesome report..
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 18, 2007, 08:15:31 am
Freakin amazing story
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bmad on October 18, 2007, 08:21:06 am
Dude.....




... words cannot express my thoughts.

This must be the best ride report of all time and i am pretty sure it will stay as the best for years to come.
You seriously should consider publishing of some sort. This is writing with passion, i feel like i was part of your group, struggling and enjoying every moment of it.

Awesome  :thumright:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LostDOG on October 18, 2007, 08:22:36 am
A man amoungst men - again, thanks for taking the time to share.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 18, 2007, 08:22:55 am
Awesome, bloody Awesome.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on October 18, 2007, 08:24:45 am
MJ - you've hit the nail on the head... we are all humans ... all the same, yet bullshitted into killing others... both sides.

My feelings now... let the politicians donner each other... I will never vote for any idiots ever again  :-[ and am in fact ashamed of what we were "told" to do those years....

Thanks for this amazing story, which not only shows the adventurous spirit of humankind, but also their kindness and fragility.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on October 18, 2007, 08:25:25 am
Dude

Your latest post brought out some emotions in me that I didn't think were still there regarding time spent in Angola.... but I will leave that discussion for another time.

Thanks for all the effort in sharing most amazing report I have ever read.

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Joyride on October 18, 2007, 08:38:27 am
Eers was dit Boetie gaan border toe, nou word Boetman de bliksem in.....but isn't it amazing what the sharing of same interests can achieve, like in 1995 the Rugby World Cup for SA and in this case biking between two former allies.

Amazing how bridges are build....thats the beauty of live.

Awesome stuff guys, I can associate myself with this.

Hope there are some more to come!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 18, 2007, 09:08:54 am
I am speechless :-X

MJ...now please write the book
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JonW on October 18, 2007, 09:20:18 am
MJ this report just gets better and better.

You have a talent.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Sláinte Mhaith on October 18, 2007, 09:21:53 am
.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: BigEd on October 18, 2007, 09:27:10 am
MJ - once again thank you for the wondeful report. I have to agree on the political stance - like Goose said, let the politicians donner each other and leave the rest of us alone... I hate those M@#%$%@F$#%@@$%S - we bleed for their kak. Listen to Piet Botha (the other Jack Hammer). He mentions it in "Goeienag Generaal"...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KiLRoy on October 18, 2007, 09:47:32 am
Quote
Your latest post brought out some emotions in me that I didn't think were still there regarding time spent in Angola.... but I will leave that discussion for another time.

ditto

Maybe a bike trip to Angola will do all us ex-warmongers good?

deep man deep....

H
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: growweblaar on October 18, 2007, 10:48:57 am
Awesome.

What's it with Nardus and the girls...?  ::)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 18, 2007, 11:19:25 am
Growweblaar, Nardus is the Camelman look-a-like, the rest of us are ugly donners.

He's just got a way with them, I guess, but in Monte Negro, he came second ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 18, 2007, 11:30:52 am
Quote
Your latest post brought out some emotions in me that I didn't think were still there regarding time spent in Angola.... but I will leave that discussion for another time.

ditto

Maybe a bike trip to Angola will do all us ex-warmongers good?

deep man deep....

H

This makes me think........Lets pool resourches and go and do a good deed there. Donate medical supplies, fix a shot up school or cresh. something like that.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Extreme Velcro on October 18, 2007, 11:32:59 am
I can help - have some contacts.  We help supply some people who look after animals in Zimbabwe (medicines and money), so have and idea of how to go about this.....
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LostDOG on October 18, 2007, 11:34:48 am
Quote
Your latest post brought out some emotions in me that I didn't think were still there regarding time spent in Angola.... but I will leave that discussion for another time.

ditto

Maybe a bike trip to Angola will do all us ex-warmongers good?

deep man deep....

H

This makes me think........Lets pool resourches and go and do a good deed there. Donate medical supplies, fix a shot up school or cresh. something like that.

Good idea / intention. Yes, we caused alot of pain there and I feel as shi'te about it as it seems the rest of you do, but right now our own country needs our efforts - IMO.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: >Herman< on October 18, 2007, 11:40:24 am
He's just got a way with them, I guess, but in Monte Negro, he came second ;D ;D

 :o  :o  :o Must have been one lucky woman then  >:D  >:D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Jacko on October 18, 2007, 12:35:58 pm
MJ - once again thank you for the wondeful report. I have to agree on the political stance - like Goose said, let the politicians donner each other and leave the rest of us alone... I hate those M@#%$%@F$#%@@$%S - we bleed for their kak. Listen to Piet Botha (the other Jack Hammer). He mentions it in "Goeienag Generaal"...

Wow. What a report. Fokkit ouens, wat kan ek se?

Sal self weer my stomping grounds in suid-Angola wil gaan uitcheck. NIe dat ek enige issues oorgehou het nie.

BigEd: Ek dink ook dis 'n cool liejie, maar dis vir my so 'n bietjie ironies dat Piet eers LAAAAANK na die oorlog met die liedjie vorendag gekom het. Dit het nie dalk iets uit te waai met die feit dat sy pa die wereld se langsdiende minister van buitelandse sake was nie?

Persoonlik kry ek 'n pyn in my anus as mense nou kwaai standpunt inneem teen apartheid of die bosoorlog of wat ook al. Dis ancient history.

Wat my REGTIG worry is hoe min mense nou hulle nekke wil uitsteek om die huidige, er, probleempies te kritiseer. Ja, om die braaivleisvuur miskien, maar wie het die guts om op 'n openbare forum te se dat sekere dinge nie kosher is nie?

Use it, don't use it.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 18, 2007, 08:36:24 pm
Some pics of our time in Lubango. Waiting for MJ trying to sort the 640

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195971930-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195972162-L.jpg)


We really felt sorry for Fred, and he looked battered that morning in Lubango.
The left corner of Fred's Dakar headlight has embedded into it forever Doodsakker sand, he will have to keep the light when he eventually sell the bike. How de hell it got in there is a complete mystery, it's embedded into the 2 layers of glass.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195970703-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195972413-L.jpg)

While sitting waiting for MJ and Hennie to fix the 640 we had some time to spend staring at the locals going their way in this busy city.

Africa!!!!!!! and they want their cars to look like a rapper, porn-star, drug dealer pimp mobile.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195972524-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195972871-L.jpg)

New Mitsubishi's pulling in, they have a weird personalised sticker scheme

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/209856537-L.jpg)

I can do a trip on a bike like that.....I think ;D

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195973226-L.jpg)

There's plenty of these taxi's around.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/209855058-L.jpg)

Only big ass birds need apply, this scarecrow don't take shit

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/209855148-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Extreme Velcro on October 18, 2007, 09:26:17 pm
I love these pics - the scarecrow is impressive....
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Stofstreep on October 19, 2007, 07:17:16 am
I left this report till now, thinking I'll be able to read the whole report in one sitting ::)
Boy were I surprised :D
First, can't do it in one sitting, Second it's not finished yet :o

But it is a awsome report MJ and everyone involved. Good on you.

PS. MJ that pic of the church in the last report, you must put it in the Interesting Architechture topic.
Very cool building.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 22, 2007, 03:20:13 pm
bump

Jeeeezzzzz MJ......roer jou gat asb man ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Raider on October 22, 2007, 07:09:51 pm
You have heard it before-I am repeating it.

A brilliant report! :salut: :salut: :salut: :salut:

Thanks for sharing.

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: shark_za on October 22, 2007, 07:27:16 pm
Scarecrow = rusted G3.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ektoknbike on October 23, 2007, 11:24:38 am

Dis moer goed. Van die beste wat ek nog tot sover gelees het. MAAR

Jy is een van die gewetenlooste, gevoellose skrywers wat ek nou al tee gekom het. Dis jou tipe waarmee ma's hulle kinders saans bangmaak as hulle nie wil huistoe kom nie.

EK smeek jou, WAAR IS DIE RES ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ??? ???
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Python on October 23, 2007, 03:15:42 pm
Ok you have had us on the edge of our seats for long enough now .... you wand us to BEG.... you want us to pleaed....Pleeaaaase continue the report.  ;D ;D ;D

Look farward to reading more....

Great report
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Groenie on October 23, 2007, 03:58:27 pm
I see your 6 beers and raise you 6!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 23, 2007, 04:00:55 pm
it seems the natives are becoming restless...

come on mj...there's not enuf space in the corner for a riot... (too crowded)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ektoknbike on October 23, 2007, 04:33:59 pm

MJ finish the report before November fund:

1. Booswig  6 beers
2. Groenie  6 beers
3. Ektoknbike  6 beers
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Python on October 23, 2007, 05:52:28 pm
I'll drink to that...
                     
                   six more beers!!! :occasion14:

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 23, 2007, 06:51:14 pm
Baaasted stop offering him beers, the way it's going now he is going to wait another few days hoping he can get this up to an inter-link truck.  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 23, 2007, 07:10:12 pm
Baaasted stop offering him beers, the way it's going now he is going to wait another few days hoping he can get this up to an inter-link truck.  ;D

The Marquis de Saad had nought on Nardus......
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 24, 2007, 08:29:54 am




The next morning the last chicken, that succesfully evaded the executioner the previous day, gets turned into marinaded-chicken-in-a-bag. I take a picture of where Hennie hit the wall the previous night.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198543717-L.jpg)




Jo also takes us to see Tundavala.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198560743-L.jpg)




It's a lookout point where the escarpment towers 2km above the plains. Looks like this.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198497236-L.jpg)

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198560410-L.jpg)



Apparently Unita threw a lot of people off the cliffs here.

On the way we also pass the Tundavala dam. It's water is used to make N'gola beer. Read the label.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198731397-L.jpg)

On the way to the dam we also pass the N'gola brewery. So it must be true.



We say goodbye to our hosts, or rather friends, and hit the main road out of town.

We stop at the black market first. It is a sprawling open air market with one short street absolutely clogged with taxis and people. The rest of the market consists of narrow corridors that only allows foot traffic. It is huge, so much so that I could not get any idea of it's size. It must be a couple of hectares at least. It is called the black market because the goods that are sold here come in from Namibia overland and no import duties are paid. You can find anything here. I mean it, anything.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198560918-L.jpg)




Things are nicely organised too, all matresses and beds are grouped together, all TV's Hifi and electronic goods in one place etc.

In this mauling soup of humanity I wait with the bikes. And all I get is friendly curiosity of where we are going, how long we've travelled, how much the bikes cost and so on.
Unlike South Africa, here, the races were never legislated apart. The difference is marked.

We road we take is tarred. But as the populated areas thin out, so does the road. It becomes potholed to an extent that we wish for no road. It would have been easier to ride. I have heard many people complain about how bad it is, and now I understand why.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198733920-L.jpg)



The thing that boggles the mind is that this is the main road to Namibia. All overland freight must pass this way. We watched some trucks bumping and grinding their way in and out of these potholes and I can assure you that one trip only will necessitate repairs at the other end. No wonder that most imports come by way of sea transport.

It was our intention to leave this road as early as possible and veer South at Chibia, but we had no idea how difficult the terrain would be. The odds were in favour of difficult, and it would have been unfair to Fred to go into two days of sand and rock again, when on this road he could at least keep the rubber side down. Bouncing through this Swiss Cheese of tar and gravel, I'm sure Fred's ass got a pounding, he doesn't have the luxury of standing on the pegs like the rest of us.

Where we cross rivers, it's wash day like everyday.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198733421-L.jpg)



We take a break under a most impressive tree.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198497601-L.jpg)



It is here that we learn that the empty beer bottles must be returned. Note the absence of empties lying around. We are not allowed to leave with our bottles. Friendly folk once again. This country is just different man.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198733826-L.jpg)

The shirt that Nardus is wearing has the Angolan flag on it. It's very popular  here.



Close to sunset we reach Cahama and pull up to the nearest bar.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198577803-L.jpg)



I don't think that Coke is gonna fit in that body.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/212281669-L.jpg)



Local dance team practising. Work now, fame later.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198734029-L.jpg)



We have such a good time that we only leave when it's dark already. Cahama is where we leave the main road and we get into some spirited gravel road shenanigens. Michnus manages to do a 180 in a sandy turn without falling. We pull up under some Baobabs and  start a fire. Marinaded chicken awaits.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198734126-L.jpg)




Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: >Herman< on October 24, 2007, 08:43:30 am
 :happy1: :headbang: This report rocks!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on October 24, 2007, 08:53:27 am
Thanks for the update :)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on October 24, 2007, 11:44:46 am
Awesome, thanks for the update
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 24, 2007, 02:11:48 pm



Dawn, and what a dawn. Damn it's good to be alive.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198734373-L.jpg)



Our camping spot turns out to be quite scenic, although my matress gets punctured. 

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198498027-L.jpg)



Day 7 since Fred fractured his ankle. It is also our final day, tonight we sleep in Namibia. Fred must be looking forward to getting the hell off that bike and putting his feet up.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198734254-L.jpg)



We get going again and it's going to be good, only gravel today. It doesn't feel like the end of the trip though, we haven't had enough yet. Premature.

The first village we get to is Otjindjao. It turns out to be a lekker spot. We find the local shop. This is the display window.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198734712-L.jpg)

If it's displayed here, you can buy it inside. If it's not displayed here, you need to leave town and hope the next town stocks it.


The locals have a dress sense that never dissapoints. Remember Miami Vice, Don Johnson and those colourful suits?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198734951-L.jpg)



Fred, ever the gentleman.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735069-L.jpg)




Around back we see an opportunity for breakfast.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198736178-L.jpg)




And so it is. Goat meat for breakfast being prepared.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735199-L-1.jpg)

Regardless of my reservations regarding goat meat, it turns out to be quite palatable. Marinade chicken last night, meat this morning, wer'e living the high life.



There isn't a wall anywhere that isn't pocked with bullet holes.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735321-L-1.jpg)




The special guests even get chairs.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735460-L.jpg)




You'll never find Michnus not smiling. It makes him a lot of friends.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735585-L.jpg)




The shop keeper.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735708-L.jpg)




A lot of the vehicles, cars included, have the owners name on them. This bike belongs to Mr Kalukiti.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735825-L.jpg)




Check out the pump and panga.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/195981934-L.jpg)




You will not find a single male here that does not carry a panga.

This is what a panga does when mixed with too much beer.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198736764-L.jpg)




This chap took some convincing before he would let me take a picture. He's got that Yul Brynner - Westworld thing going.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198735949-L.jpg)




Even down to the glowing eyes.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198736526-L-1.jpg)




How is it that a face can tell you so much?

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198736051-L.jpg)




Not quite a microwave oven.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198736415-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198737149-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198498456-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198736908-L.jpg)




When we leave Otjindjao we are very strong. They sell a good quality beer there. Hennie very correctly points out that there is a landing strip at Otjindjao, so being airlifted is possible. That gives us license to ride like we need to.

And this is what the road looks like, perfect for some serious steeking.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198737302-L.jpg)




(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198737440-L.jpg)



With all humility I have to say, I'm fcking quick when I'm drunk. Some unholy racing ensues.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198499110-L.jpg)




We race like crazy untill the beer wears off and Hennie drops back. Shortly thereafter I hit a donga so hard it kills the motor. It's that piece of shit Mikuni BT40 they fit to these bikes, it should be used in scooters, not racing bikes. Anyway, it brings me to a halt and Hennie and I wait for the rest to arrive.

As we left the shop at Otjindjao I bought three bottles of McKenzie Blended Whiskey. It looked odd because it is bottled in beer bottles, and it uses the word 'blended'. So I figured it's something like Klippies & Coke, a whiskey mix. While we wait we take these out. By the time Hennie is swallowing down his third mouthfull he realises there's no mix. It's just whiskey. He does well and keeps it down.

The rest we mix with warm water though.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198498973-L.jpg)



Me, I drink beer. When there is no beer, I drink water. On the odd celebratory occasion I'll drink Stroh Rum. But for the rest I cannot differentiate between whiskey, brandy or any hard liquer for that matter. It all tastes like crap to me.

Hence the face.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198737779-L.jpg)




Effective stuff though, mediocre jokes turn into roaring hilarities.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198738064-L.jpg)




Those first three mouthfulls catches up to Hennie and he tries to walk it off.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198738204-L.jpg)




When we pull away there the octane is back and we give it horns. The road turns into twin track though and takes a lot of speed off. It crosses over rocky hills and through dense trees, some  rocky riverbeds and some nice deep red sand. Good stuff. Good riding. Finally we reach another village. We pull straight in to where the bar is and order some Black Labels. We must be close to Namibia again.

To the surprise of the locals Hennie goes straight to bed.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198739544-L.jpg)



Supremely comfortable these Angolan matresses.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198739285-L.jpg)




Again the locals turn out to be the participatory type.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198739425-L.jpg)



Always ready to have some fun.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/212326578-L.jpg)



Just as we stopped at the Village Michnus pulled in also. He mustv'e been flogging that Dakar (his wife's bike). The other two take a long time before they arrive.

Nardus waited for Fred on top of a hill while having a cigarette. When the cigarette was finished and Fred had not yet arrived, he turned back to look for him. The last day and Fred was still not finished with his grass roots inspection of Angola.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198499309-L.jpg)


That pic is not the whole story though, Fred was joking around. I have to give it to him. He never bitched or moaned, he always had another joke. The only way we knew how much pain he was in at any time was to watch the colour of his face.




This pic tells more of the story. The reason Nardus's bike is lying down with the ignition on is that when he arrived on the scene, Fred was lying where that red arrow is. Nardus got another scare. Fred flew in between these two trees without touching them.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/212352702-L.jpg)



That's the thing with sand. When I came past here I was doing around  a 100 km/h, at that speed the sand is a hard surface. Even the animal tracks in the sand could be felt on the handle bars. Fred, worried about his leg was going much slower, thereby increasing the difficulty level manyfold.

Between here and the village where we were waiting Fred took another tumble. Luckily (?) it is Freds' other leg that takes the punishment today. He did a good job of it. The leg is blue from top to bottom, only interrupted by a red and bloody knee.



When they arrive Nardus's dust cloud draws admirers.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198739926-L.jpg)



We have another enjoyable stay and are entertained by the locals.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198738341-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198739033-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198545942-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198738485-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198738786-L.jpg)



(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198738909-L.jpg)




Like I said, Michnus makes friends everywhere.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198546156-L.jpg)



This is our second village stop for the day but we need to make the border before closing time, and we still have to make a social stop in Chitado. So we bid them goodbye and hit the road again.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198546314-L.jpg)




On the way to Chitado I try to catch Hennie and Nardus and get 40km of swallowing dust for my trouble.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198741488-L.jpg)




At Chitado we pull up to the same place we did the first day of the trip. Fred - fat foot and ciggies. More or less sums up his trip.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198740292-L.jpg)




This lady reminds me of Christina Ricci for some reason.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198740430-M.jpg)


(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198740551-M.jpg)




Our last picture of the lovely women of Angola.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198740666-L-1.jpg)



The friendly KTM engineers put a big hole in the side of the tank to direct the radiator heat onto your inner thigh. Thank you. I just love riding with my legs wide open like an invitation to all passersby.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198741635-L.jpg)




One of the local variety bikes. Them Chinese, you just have to smile.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198741336-L.jpg)



We reluctantly take our leave of Chitado. Borders don't wait.

The last couple of km's on Angolan soil. Across the dam lies Namibia. It is over. It is done. It was good.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/198547339-L.jpg)





(PS - I'll do one final post as soon as I get a picture problem sorted out, thanks for staying with it.)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 24, 2007, 02:29:29 pm
FCKING AWESOME!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Reg on October 24, 2007, 02:40:05 pm
Respect.

Truly an awesome ride, it has kept me captivated for weeks now.

Thanks for sharing your journey with us all, the photo's are excellent, I will buy the book.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Operator on October 24, 2007, 03:21:53 pm


(PS - I'll do one final post as soon as I get a picture problem sorted out, thanks for staying with it.)




You're thanking us    ??? ??? ???   ..............................NO NO NO NO !!!!!!!!!!!!

We thank YOU ........for your effort and work to publish this report  !!!!

Great report !!!       ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: X Banana Boy on October 24, 2007, 03:44:38 pm
All Hail to the chiefs  :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :wav:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Doggone on October 24, 2007, 06:19:59 pm
Absolutely captivating report MJ. There should be a dvd delivery to McGregor and Boorman to show them how an unsupported trip is done through Africa
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Python on October 24, 2007, 06:56:48 pm
Wow what an amazing report thanks for sharing your travels with us well done ....wish I could get away for a trip like that...

Well Done all of you.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: buzzlightyear on October 24, 2007, 09:05:45 pm
It is still great, looking forward to the last one. 8)

Something I just noticed, not one of the bikes appear to have had a ZA sticker on, is it not required?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: tok-tokkie on October 24, 2007, 09:34:31 pm
That has been a great read.  You are a group of humanists (I think that means people who care about others & respects them - that's what I mean anyway).
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Groenie on October 24, 2007, 10:04:41 pm
Aag no man. Now we have nothing to look forward to anymore. I have been glued to the pc everyday for the last month, waiting for the next installment and now that it's over, I believe it was one of the best stories I've ever read. Suspense, drama, adventure...it had everything.

Bedonnerde trip, befokte report.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on October 24, 2007, 11:19:36 pm
even if you don't write a book (which you should) would you consider making a mamoerse pdf with even more pictures that we can download?

Thanks a million for sharing your experience with us

I agree with the above and am offering to host the PDF for download if you do decide to create something like this.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 25, 2007, 07:33:55 am


Angola, it's not like they said.

We had certain expectations when we planned this trip. The trip unfolded completely different though.

What we learned while doing our homework beforehand, just wasn't the case when we lived it.

They said that the border guards would be corrupt and that if they are not bribed, the crossing could take several hours.
We found the border guards to be wonderfully friendly and accomodating. Even though they spoke no English. Where I normally like to put a bit of distance between myself and the border post as soon as I'm cleared, here we spent time drinking beer with the Border Control people.

They said that Yelow Fever inocculation certificates would be checked. All of us had them, but two had been issued too recently to be effective.
We found that no-one even asked for it.

They said that the Police in every town will hassle us.
They said you need to have an explanation of your intent and an itinirary written in Portuguese to show the authorities in every town.
They said you needed many copies of passports and vehicle documentation to hand out.
Around this same time a well known adventurer, Kingsley Holgate, did much of our route. According to a magazine article they were arrested three times in Angolan towns.
We found none of that. In most towns we never interacted with the Police. Where we did it was more like striking up a friendship than anything official. We found them all to be very pleasant people.

Even our own expectations were totally wrong.
On my map, Monte Negro is not indicated. Yet we found a village with the bestest people ever.
We believed the Himba to be a reserved people who would find touching invasive. No such thing. They enjoyed the novelty no end. They are friendly, fun, and just people like you and me.
We expected to find a country still filled with ex combatants not yet integrated into society. The ones we found were people of the highest calibre, mature, responsible and people I now count as friends.
I saw Lubango as a city to be avoided, yet found diamonds there.
We certainly never expected to find a biker club.

In the end, every one of us felt the same way, we came to experience wild Africa, and what we found was people. Every one a pleasure to meet, every one welcoming us with open arms, every one with a smile, all willing to go out of their way to make our lives easier.

For us this trip was about the people.

(http://metaljockey.smugmug.com/photos/212669706-XL.jpg)


Angola, expect the unexpected.




Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Red on October 25, 2007, 07:58:41 am
MJ,

Please write a book about this trip.  It will be a shame if something of this calibre is not shared with a wide audience.  This is seriously good stuff.  If you were American the agents would probably be beating your door down.

Gongrats.  This is the best report on the forum.

Well done to all involved.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: bmad on October 25, 2007, 08:00:00 am
WOW  :thumright:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Colyn on October 25, 2007, 08:00:30 am
Thank you very much.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MrBig on October 25, 2007, 08:14:52 am
Incredible!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on October 25, 2007, 08:17:28 am
Wow MJ. What can we say? GREAT report! Thanks!

Where are you going next?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 25, 2007, 08:21:56 am
Yep thanks MJ, Mich et al.

Welsh
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grootseun on October 25, 2007, 08:37:27 am
awwww maaaannnn... it's over...

Mj et al...inspiring stuff...thank you for sharing.

looking forward to your next adventure...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Dirt Dog on October 25, 2007, 08:40:09 am
Must be the best report yet. Can't wait for the book. :)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: VooDoo on October 25, 2007, 08:49:19 am
Thanks for sharing your trip guys, it almost feels like I've been on a trip of a lifetime just reading it, and then the long wait for spares.... erm updates  ;D

I get the feeling this report is gonna have a big effect on the dual sport bike sales in the nearby future! If or when I meet you guys, the beers are on me!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: SGB on October 25, 2007, 09:18:56 am
MJ and team, thanks for sharing this incredible story and part of your hearts with us.  It has been fun to read and shows that your own attitude has a lot to do with how you will be treated on someone else's patch. 

It is sad that we now have to go back to the normal "BM/KTM" and "Bad service from......" and "who makes money from........" type threads.  You confirmed my attitude in life that the most important things cannot be bought or sold: Friendship, Health, Relationships, Memories, etc.

I hope your next trip has been planned already and that you are leaving soon.  DANKIE!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Uncle Bob on October 25, 2007, 09:27:50 am
Wow guys, what an absolutely awesome experience you had, thank you very much for sharing it with us.

I laughed, cried, cringed, flinched and sat absolutely dumbstruck through it.

You guys ROCK!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KiLRoy on October 25, 2007, 10:29:37 am
Well done and thanx for a great story MJ and friends.  Thanx for showing us what adventure riding really is about - road less traveled, hidden secrets, but mostly about attitude when touring - you are fine ambassadors for this sport!!!!

I suggest you forward this report to the Angolan consulate too.

Again well done and thanx for sharing - you lifted the bar......

Hein

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: wino on October 25, 2007, 10:46:56 am
mj & co, i'm in awe, dumbstruck. to have done the trip and to write it in that fashion - sharing - is just beautiful! bugger the 'pokeability' thread!! thank you.
ps you guys would probably not be required to bring your own drinks to the bash ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JourneyMan on October 25, 2007, 10:50:23 am
You certainly lifted the bar as Kilroy said. Well done to all of you! :cool:

One thing that have contributed to the success of this epic ride, must have been the group of people themselves.

It is one thing to go ride a day or overnighter with fellow riders but a completely different challenge when doing a trip like this.

The real mettle behind a person normally gets to the fore on trips like this.

Group dynamics must have been spot on because of the challenges and difficulties encountered.

I take my hat of to you guys!  :hello2: :hello2:

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on October 25, 2007, 10:59:26 am
Well done and thanx for a great story MJ and friends.  Thanx for showing us what adventure riding really is about - road less traveled, hidden secrets, but mostly about attitude when touring - you are fine ambassadors for this sport!!!!

I suggest you forward this report to the Angolan consulate too.

Again well done and thanx for sharing - you lifted the bar......

Hein

I have the Consul's business card somewhere, met him nice guy (but limited English) if you want to forward it.

Welsh 8) 8)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 25, 2007, 08:40:44 pm
Thank you for one of the most enjoyable reads I have had in a long time. I would gladly put your book ( if you wrote one) with some of my other favourites on the bookshelve.

The four of you have inspiered riders not just hear on WD's, but all around the world as well.

ADV rider, 279188 views, 757 replies and still counting.

Amassadors of DS riding in Southern Africa.

Thank You All.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Scribble on October 25, 2007, 09:19:49 pm
sjoe...  looking forward all the more to meeting you guys at the bash some beers on me thanks for an amazing story
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Lootch67 on October 26, 2007, 12:01:43 am
That's it - I'm not doing a ride report of our Kaoko trip. The bar has been set WAAAYYY too high! Thank you very much for a amazing report!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grondpad ™ on October 26, 2007, 07:44:36 am
MJ en Co,  Wow wow wow wow. thanks for sharing, big respect!!  O0
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: SGB on October 26, 2007, 08:09:26 am
That's it - I'm not doing a ride report of our Kaoko trip. The bar has been set WAAAYYY too high! Thank you very much for a amazing report!

No, that is the easy way out!  Skryf please!  ???
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Dusty on October 26, 2007, 08:16:12 am
Thank you for sharing your amazing adventure, but I think that you could write a ride report on going to the shop for bread and milk and it would be just as entertaining.  ;D ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: briv on October 26, 2007, 09:32:58 am
Riveting..riveting  ;D ;D I'l save the skaapfillets for you guy's at the bash  ;)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kev on October 27, 2007, 05:57:43 pm
Guys, I was truly moved by this report... on so many levels. I do not have the right words that can descirbe that. So all I will say is, "Thank You".
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Plothond on October 27, 2007, 08:07:03 pm
I cannot say more than the others and have not commented much on this thread

Yet, I can assure you that I followed each installment in awe and all the comments with great interest

Thanks for great reading and a wonderful report.

... and how we elevate people, and in this case the writers and participants in this trip, yet, you are all ordinary people, just like the rest of us.
What an inspiration to us all, that this type of adventure is achievable by anyone with the fantastic resolve and committment you displayed.

Well done  :)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Goose on October 27, 2007, 08:49:48 pm
I cannot say more than the others and have not commented much on this thread

Yet, I can assure you that I followed each installment in awe and all the comments with great interest

Thanks for great reading and a wonderful report.

... and how we elevate people, and in this case the writers and participants in this trip, yet, you are all ordinary people, just like the rest of us.
What an inspiration to us all, that this type of adventure is achievable by anyone with the fantastic resolve and committment you displayed.

Well done  :)

I can only agree with above statement!!!

BUT please... oh please send a copy of your RR to Charlie & Ewan.... firstly to show them what a real adventure is all about... and secondly to inspire them for their new "LWU" ride!  8)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 29, 2007, 05:17:31 am
Amazing report.

How did Fred get that swollen foot back into his boot every day?  What boots did you use for this trip?


He used BMW Santiago boots. They open nice and wide but he obviously couldn't fasten the one. After a couple of days it had worn his skin through in places.

Finally, 14 days after he broke the ankle, and back in South Africa, he was operated on and the lot gets screwed back together.

He is still on crutches but the cast should come off this week. His left knee that was injured on the last day is still giving him grief, but the x-rays don't show any obvious problem, so it will probably just need some time to settle down.

He is not discouraged though and have done short rides already. He will be fine.




As for the bikes, all were more or less modified to take luggage only . Otherwise they were all standard and all of them made the trip without any major damage. All of them had to be stripped down totally though, due to the sea riding thing. Almost all had some sand or water still captured in the suspension bearings and or wheel bearings.

I have been very critical towards the 640 in the report. That was how things were at the time though. It is thoroughly unpleasant to ride something like the doodsakker on a bike that cannot be allowed to stall. In the end I only had a fully functional bike the final two days of the trip.

The fact of the matter is that there were only two issues. One, the choke; I don't rate this as a problem, it can be sorted out easily on the road. Two, the battery; this has nothing to do with the bike. It was a battery problem only. The reason the new battery that I bought in Tombua died within the first 250km, is that it was not the sealed type and the battery box in the 640 lies at an angle. So the overflow allows the corners of the lead plates to protrude above the acid line. That's my stupidity. I should have foreseen that.

And let's not forget, the 640 is the only bike that had a kickstart. If any of the other bikes had been in the same situation, we would have had real problems.

My problems with the 640 did have one good result. From now on a multimeter will be standard in my toolkit on long trips. If we had just been able to diagnose the problem the first time it broke down in the desert, it would have removed all the mental stress for the balance of the trip.




As far as the all the kind comments  posted goes, I would like to say thank you. Thank you to all. I do not write these reports with the intention to receive flattering comments, but I know the comments are posted for me and my buddies' benefit. It really means a lot to us when we see you enjoy the trip as much as we did.



... and how we elevate people, and in this case the writers and participants in this trip, yet, you are all ordinary people, just like the rest of us.

Well said, none of us are exceptionally skilled riders (excepting  when I'm drunk, then I'm fcking quick). We are just a couple of guys that have the opportunity to ride in exceptional places and meet exceptional people. And make no mistake, we are very aware of how fortunate we are to be able to do so.

Like someone's signature line says: "carpe the living shit out of the diem"


That's it - I'm not doing a ride report of our Kaoko trip. The bar has been set WAAAYYY too high! Thank you very much for a amazing report!

Like hell you won't. I've been looking forward to that report for too long.

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 29, 2007, 05:24:39 am
even if you don't write a book (which you should) would you consider making a mamoerse pdf with even more pictures that we can download?

Thanks a million for sharing your experience with us



An ADVrider have already done so. Here's the link http://www.4shared.com/file/27666139/f93973b7/Angola_Trip_-_updated.html (http://www.4shared.com/file/27666139/f93973b7/Angola_Trip_-_updated.html).

I don't know how long it will be hosted so use it now if you want.

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on October 29, 2007, 08:17:27 am
even if you don't write a book (which you should) would you consider making a mamoerse pdf with even more pictures that we can download?

Thanks a million for sharing your experience with us



An ADVrider have already done so. Here's the link http://www.4shared.com/file/27666139/f93973b7/Angola_Trip_-_updated.html (http://www.4shared.com/file/27666139/f93973b7/Angola_Trip_-_updated.html).

I don't know how long it will be hosted so use it now if you want.



Funacide said he is prepared to host it on his site.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 29, 2007, 08:38:12 am
Down loaded and saved, too be read anytime in need inspiration.

Once again Thanks for the report guys.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on October 29, 2007, 10:24:33 am
I have uploaded the file. Enjoy the read guys. File is 18Mb in size. Here is the location:

Click Here for Angola Trip in PDF Format
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: killboy on November 02, 2007, 03:29:38 pm
Absolutely awesome guys!!! You are legends!

Hope all will heal well!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ratel on November 02, 2007, 04:08:28 pm
Only one question remains: Where to next ;D
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Nardus on November 02, 2007, 04:32:44 pm
Only one question remains: Where to next ;D

Now that is a good question .......... !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Clockwork Orange on November 07, 2007, 04:39:08 pm
MJ, Michnus Nardus en Hennie.....! Dit was nou a lekker trippie ne. Brilliant stuff all of you and fantastically written report. Looking forward to hearing more of this over a couple of beers next time I am in EL
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: malgat (RIP) on January 29, 2008, 02:23:30 pm
wow,,,,,i only got to read this report today and im gratefull i did,,,whenever im somewhere  struggling on my bike i will think about this report and draw strength from your courage and endurance,,,,well done
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mike B on January 30, 2008, 01:07:14 pm
I have just finished reading this report, its been 3 days, but it has left my soul refreshed and lifted my spirit which has been hammered of late. With a tear in my eye and choking sense of awe I read the last passages. I feel humbled and privileged to have experienced your odyssey with a sense of passion and feeling that has left me inspired.

I have had the privilege to have traveled Africa, I agree that the conflict was not what we thought it was and the people certainly not what they where made out to be.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mogas on February 19, 2008, 11:08:05 pm
It's all been said. I have nothing further to add (read speachless) except a big thankyou for the story.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: I&horse on April 28, 2008, 06:32:07 pm
This story was promoted word of mouth!!!!!! Man what an absolutely epic adventure!! Makes me proud to be a WD.

MJ, publish my man!! At least speak to Jacko and get it into Topbike.

WOW guys and especially Fred, tough as nails, riding with a broken ankle, you guys SERIAAAASLY ROCK!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Jacko on April 30, 2008, 04:57:07 pm
This story was promoted word of mouth!!!!!! Man what an absolutely epic adventure!! Makes me proud to be a WD.

MJ, publish my man!! At least speak to Jacko and get it into Topbike.

WOW guys and especially Fred, tough as nails, riding with a broken ankle, you guys SERIAAAASLY ROCK!!!!!!!!

I've repeatedly asked him and he said: "No, I've promised it to Enduro World."

End of story. From my side, at least.

Ek lek nie 'n man se gat nie.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: GIDEON on May 01, 2008, 02:44:22 pm
Still a great read
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Midnight Special on May 05, 2008, 12:23:45 pm
Hats off to you all, this is the best report I have ever read, better than all of Charlie and Ewans programes as this is the real deal, no back up and having to depend upon yourselves, you have my greatest respect.

As has been said by all who have read this, it must be published.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Beltzer on May 08, 2008, 03:39:17 pm
really awesome!!!!!!!! (halfway through i almost had a heart attack as the pictures didnt want to show anymore, luckly did not last long)
Is there a place where we can download this report, my brother doen not have internet and he'll be very interested to read this?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: IDR on May 08, 2008, 04:04:06 pm
some dude compiled it into a PDF... check the ADVRider thread... should be available for download there.  Otherwise I have it, you can PM me your e-mail address and I'll mail it to you, but that's a last resort as it's quite big, close on 19 MB.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Beltzer on May 09, 2008, 08:15:58 am
some dude compiled it into a PDF... check the ADVRider thread... should be available for download there.  Otherwise I have it, you can PM me your e-mail address and I'll mail it to you, but that's a last resort as it's quite big, close on 19 MB.

thanks ill look there, my mailbox wount exept such large files
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Etienne2T on June 16, 2008, 09:24:20 pm
WOW there should be an award for the best trip ever.
This sounds awesome Michnus I have found HUGE respect for you and the others of this trip, amazing.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: lonerider on June 16, 2008, 09:55:00 pm
From the advrider thread http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=5576677&highlight=download#post5576677

the pdf can be downloaded from http://www.4shared.com/file/27666139/f93973b7/Angola_Trip_-_updated.html

HTH
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Copernicus on October 03, 2008, 09:41:12 am
Great report.  You guys are the real manne.

Quote: "...becomes an active participant in this unnatural, ugly, vertical carousel."

Metaljocky, you give new meaning to the term "poetry in motion".
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Crossed-up on October 04, 2008, 05:11:22 pm
Absolutely epic RR.  Your ride was amazing, brave, crazy and lucky.  It reads like a Boy's Own.  Each episode leaves the reader hanging, calling for more.  Fantastic!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Smithey on November 11, 2008, 09:26:39 pm
Only seen this now, a link from the best RR thread.

This site amazes me from day to day. The hidden wonders than we some times miss.

To the gentlemen that participated in this epic journey there is no words that can explain the joy and exhilaration that you have provided me the last 7 hours of my life.

a TRUE adventure you have endured.

Well done.

An epic journey that will be hard to follow. Raised the bar in my thought of adventure riding and for this i thank you.

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Gee S on November 12, 2008, 07:37:12 am
Thanks for an awsome report. Wild Dogs on a wild ride.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Tonteldoos on November 24, 2008, 09:41:20 pm
Only read it now, take me a full 3 evenings to work through all the pages. Best RR eva!!

Thanks for sharing
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on November 25, 2008, 05:36:08 am
Only read it now, take me a full 3 evenings to work through all the pages. Best RR eva!!

Thanks for sharing

When it was first written and posted piece by piece on ADV Rider, the Adv rider boys who have some epic ride reports were crying out for more, definitely a great one 8) And a great writing style.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: roxenz on December 10, 2008, 06:57:37 pm
Only got round to this today.  I laughed and I cried.  Several times.

Thanks MJ and friends.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Rieks on March 20, 2009, 09:27:46 pm
Awesome stuff - almost 2 years later that i got to read this stunning report ... please write an adventure book about this trip! Well done!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: XRV-Boy on March 31, 2009, 09:03:03 pm
This is just beautiful, you make me want to pack up my things and ride!! love it :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Bakkie on June 18, 2009, 12:14:17 am
piele  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: BoJangels on June 20, 2009, 01:04:49 pm
absolutely awesum....riveting stuff ... :thumleft: :thumleft:
time to make a movie guys...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: TornadoF5 on June 28, 2009, 06:14:37 pm
Emotionally stirring makes me want to sell up and leave....
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Klomper (RIP) on August 07, 2009, 02:37:37 pm
Fukn awesome!!!
If this doesn't get you lus, nothing will!!!!

Thank you so much MJ & co!!! 
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JustBiking on September 04, 2009, 11:12:38 pm
Almost 2 years ago I was was one of those waiting in anticipation for each of MJ's posts, sometimes a days apart..... It was brilliant then and defined some of the things I wanted to experience on a bike trip.

Sitting at the BFN airport today on my way home and without internet access I came across the PDF version that someone put together of this trip and I enjoyed just as much as the first time.

All I can say is farking brilliant !!!! :thumleft:  Brilliant trip, brilliant report, a brilliant time.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Berm_Rooster on December 31, 2009, 10:08:38 am
I only read this now after being alerted to it by TrailRider. This is my last day in the office for 2009, and I can truly say it was well spent. Magic stuff.

Words that spring to mind: Awesome; Inspiring; Heart-warming; Mettle; Soulful; Spirit... one can carry on forever.

Now MJ...

Did you ever write the book?

None of the PDFs are hosted anymore, does anyone have it & would be willing to mail it to me?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Would I? on December 31, 2009, 10:17:14 am
I only read this now after being alerted to it by TrailRider. This is my last day in the office for 2009, and I can truly say it was well spent. Magic stuff.

Words that spring to mind: Awesome; Inspiring; Heart-warming; Mettle; Soulful; Spirit... one can carry on forever.

Now MJ...

Did you ever write the book?

None of the PDFs are hosted anymore, does anyone have it & would be willing to mail it to me?

I would alsolike the PDF's if they are availible. Thanks
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Trailrider on December 31, 2009, 06:24:29 pm
PM Eisbein

I think he has one.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Roger dlH on January 01, 2010, 01:48:18 pm
Sheeeeyit! I laughed, cried and was amazed. And them embarrassed! Why? I have just read the RR I did on our trip to Himeville. And now I'm more embarrassed!  :redface:

Bloody well done guys!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KTM Jagermeister on January 04, 2010, 08:29:11 am
You make Rambo and the A-Team look like real sissies!  Well done!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mogas on January 04, 2010, 05:13:16 pm
Just read it, again.
What a great story.
Thank you
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kaptein Bos on January 08, 2010, 10:46:26 am
Really learned a lot from this report...  one thinks one knows what adventure riding is about...  LEGENDARY :laughing4:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: JoeDirt on January 12, 2010, 11:57:49 am
WOW this sounds like it was an AWESOME trip, would love to have been there!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 05, 2010, 11:17:33 am
Ok, I'm a bit bored at work and after searching for some interesting reading material, I stumbled upon this RR again, decided it is such an well written article and farking good/amazing pictures to read the whole thing (again), so good bay to all my bandwidth back home.  :lamer:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Tubeless on March 14, 2010, 05:28:29 pm
Always worth reading a second and third time  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: McSpafter on March 25, 2010, 02:02:06 pm
Seeing that I have plenty of time at the office these days, I only read this thread today... for the first time!

Absolutely awesome stuff guys!

Where can I get the PDF... please someone share it somewhere that it can be downloaded from!

Cheers

McS
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 25, 2010, 02:22:04 pm

Where can I get the PDF... please someone share it somewhere that it can be downloaded from!


I would also like a PDF version if possible
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Berm_Rooster on March 25, 2010, 02:22:38 pm
I can mail it to yous, but its HUGE!!!

Have yous GMail?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 25, 2010, 02:47:10 pm
How big is it? The biggest mail I got in my mailbox is 21MB, shall we give it a try?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Berm_Rooster on March 25, 2010, 03:03:33 pm
It are 19MegaBlobs. You want?

Dont blame me if your server does a Hic-burp-Up.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 25, 2010, 03:07:03 pm
It are 19MegaBlobs. You want?

Dont blame me if your server does a Hic-burp-Up.

Lets not Hic-burp-up the company server, I do have a yahoo mail account you can try sending it to. Address is minora_drom@yahoo.com

Thanks BR
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Berm_Rooster on March 25, 2010, 03:08:53 pm
Cool, I'm only gonna do this once. Next time someone wants it you can forward...and so on down the line, capish?
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 25, 2010, 03:18:37 pm
Cool, I'm only gonna do this once. Next time someone wants it you can forward...and so on down the line, capish?

Thank you

Yes sir, understood
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: McSpafter on March 26, 2010, 06:40:56 am
Please sir, may I have some .... too?

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 26, 2010, 08:21:36 am
Cool, I'm only gonna do this once. Next time someone wants it you can forward...and so on down the line, capish?

McSpafter, I can send it to you, shoot with a mail address

Berm_Rooster, thank you for the PDF, downloaded it this morning
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Berm_Rooster on March 26, 2010, 08:43:39 am
Shot dude, I already sent the Spaff one too.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on March 26, 2010, 08:51:39 am
Thought you only gonna do it once. .  :mwink:

Much appreciated  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Berm_Rooster on March 26, 2010, 08:57:34 am
I'm a nice guy...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: McSpafter on March 26, 2010, 06:07:19 pm
You sure are...  :thumleft:

I read it for a second time today... really got me motivated for when we get work again!


McS
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Just Blip It! on April 06, 2010, 09:36:14 pm
Absolutely enjoyed this RR, awe inspiring. Thanks!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Baches on May 01, 2010, 08:20:20 am
Die beste RR wat ek nog gelees het. DIS wat ek 'n bike trip noem. In die boendoes in en die haan moet oop bly. Hoe de hel gaan jy met jou gewone lewe aan na so 'n trip ????
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: darkhelmet on May 01, 2010, 12:28:00 pm
why not use rapidshare.com or www.megaupload.com?

Makes it available for others and wont clog up mailservers and mailboxes...
I can put it online aswell, but havent got the PDF yet.  ::)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: jshump on May 01, 2010, 12:32:07 pm
What an inspiring rr!! The gut knots up, the feet start to twitch and an overwhelming desire to hop on and RIDE, ride ride takes over.

thanks for sharing

BM can you mail the pdf to me as well asb?

jshump@me.com
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on May 02, 2010, 01:40:56 pm
I can mail it to you guys, Darkhelmet then you can upload it onto a hosting site, deal?

jshump & darkhelmet, please PM me your email address's and I'll send it to you tomorrow (Much faster connection at work than at home)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Pote on May 02, 2010, 03:31:42 pm
awesome report guys
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on May 03, 2010, 10:15:44 am
I can mail it to you guys, Darkhelmet then you can upload it onto a hosting site, deal?

jshump & darkhelmet, please PM me your email address's and I'll send it to you tomorrow (Much faster connection at work than at home)



Pdf sent  O0
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: SGB on May 03, 2010, 03:36:16 pm
The pdf is here:

http://reports.overland.co.za/MetalJockey/Angola_Trip.pdf
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: darkhelmet on May 04, 2010, 03:23:11 pm
I can mail it to you guys, Darkhelmet then you can upload it onto a hosting site, deal?

jshump & darkhelmet, please PM me your email address's and I'll send it to you tomorrow (Much faster connection at work than at home)



Pdf sent  O0
sorry, missed your post. But seems its already made available by SGB.

Cheers SGB!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: FarScape on May 05, 2010, 10:17:40 am
Thanks SGB.

Downloaded it but it seems that its not the complete RR. The part from the biker bar till they reached the border is missing.

Does anyone have a pdf file for the last bit.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Would I? on May 05, 2010, 03:57:13 pm
Thanks SGB.

Downloaded it but it seems that its not the complete RR. The part from the biker bar till they reached the border is missing.

Does anyone have a pdf file for the last bit.

Yes ...... me too only up to page 150. Thanks for this part though SGB it was great.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: michnus on May 05, 2010, 04:04:28 pm
I've got the pdf file if you want me to email it to anyone, it's 18mg file. Can also upload it to some place to keep, just don't know where to if anyone got a suggestion.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: darkhelmet on May 06, 2010, 10:53:12 am
The easiest is to use www.megaupload.com  or www.2shared.com.

Upload the file and post the link here. Then people can download and perhaps place it in a webserver for a better and more permanent solution
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on May 06, 2010, 01:00:10 pm
I've got the pdf file if you want me to email it to anyone, it's 18mg file. Can also upload it to some place to keep, just don't know where to if anyone got a suggestion.

M

Send it to me and I will upload to the server and add a link to the first post...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Carlos on May 06, 2010, 04:13:28 pm
Can't believe I missed this...awesome!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: funacide on May 06, 2010, 09:08:17 pm
Ok Guys

There is a link on the first post, but here it is as well...

Entire Report in PDF Format can be Downloaded Here - Click Here (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/pdfreports/angola_metaljockey.pdf)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Minora on May 07, 2010, 08:19:46 am
Thanks SGB.

Downloaded it but it seems that its not the complete RR. The part from the biker bar till they reached the border is missing.

Does anyone have a pdf file for the last bit.

HennieF

PM me you email and I can mail it to you

Note (22Mb Big)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: LeonDude on May 14, 2010, 11:34:08 pm
Absolutely amazing trip and report. Really motivates me to get out there again! Thanks for all the great writing and taking the trouble to post!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Cane Rat on May 15, 2010, 02:40:24 pm
I have been trying to read this RR for a very long time, but got extremely frustrated as my connection here is very slow and most of the time, it would not download all the pictures. Whilst the RR is not only about pictures, you need them to complete the story. :drif:

Today, the cyber gods smiled upon me and allowed me to read thru the whole report. Absolutely amazing. Muito Respeito (Much respect) to you guys and to MJ for a absolutely stunning report.  :thumleft:

I've been in Angola for 2 years now, but has never had the opportunity to go to tha south altough I've seen quite a few places north of Lobito. There are some truly amazing places in this country. It is quickly busy picking itself up from the ashes of the longest civil war in history, but it will take a while. Problem is, there are only a few that benifits by the riches. The poor, are dirt poor.

This has now put me in a very melancholy mood. Shucks, I miss my bike.  :BangHead: :BangHead::'( :'( :'(

Once again, GREAT STUFF, MUCH RESPECT AND WELL DONE :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Husky Boy on June 08, 2010, 12:05:14 am
What a beautifully illuminating report! What do you do for a living...ride bikes? Can i send my CV?  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Horsepower on December 16, 2010, 11:47:21 pm
great stuff!!! :ricky:

For those that dont know, this rr reached over a million reads on a internasional forum, congrats guys!!!

(http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/tt249/hennielowe/metaljockey.jpg)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Mzee on January 06, 2011, 01:49:02 pm
Great ride report: Couple of observations:

1-"In the end, every one of us felt the same way, we came to experience wild Africa, and what we found was people. Every one a pleasure to meet, every one welcoming us with open arms, every one with a smile, all willing to go out of their way to make our lives easier".   Africa in the north (rural Africa) is a great place; I think it is the only place on the planet where huminity still reigns.  When I rode solo this was my experience: http://mzee-jaki.blogspot.com/2009/10/everyone-has-dream.html

2- When you are a team with different skills, you can attempt such a trip.  You are not worried that you will get stuck in the middle of nowhere and thus the ride is doomed.  Team work allows for the craziest things imaginable.

3-Folks this was awesome.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Heddles on August 19, 2011, 07:07:30 am
Awesome RR.... You guys made the effort to actually capture the moment, the culture, the people... Without these and a few other elements, there is just no point... Absolutely awesome report...
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kerritz on August 19, 2011, 03:48:39 pm
Ja nee....agteros kom ook in die kraal. Laaste paar dae gelees aan die. Stuff that legends are made off!! RESPECT......en dankie....dit sit sekerlik die benchmark op enige trip!!  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Metaljockey on August 20, 2011, 11:19:28 pm
Thanks guys, good to know that this report is still bringing joy to new readers.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: eikeboom on August 20, 2011, 11:43:24 pm
Thanks guys, good to know that this report is still bringing joy to new readers.

And to existing readers. I've read it a few times, as well as your other ones.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Sasha on December 19, 2011, 01:12:09 pm
Just dowloaded on my iPad. PDF is the best. Thanks for that.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Pietcoke on December 19, 2011, 06:52:01 pm
Nou ja, ek het ook nou eers die RR raakgelees.

Dit is eenvoudig 'n AWSOME RR en trip gewees.

MJ en "partners" julle het 'n great job gedoen.

Baie geluk.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Damaraland on January 05, 2012, 02:12:03 pm
Legends, every single one of you!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: MOGGIE on January 10, 2012, 03:16:00 pm
I have read the report some time ago. Now I have started reading again as I have no work. My gat jeuk and I would like to ride again. This time in Northern Mozambique. I would like to ride in two months time. Any takers to join. The Unimog will be the suport vehicle.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ndlovu on January 13, 2012, 11:48:41 am
Still being read and still awesome!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: KevinLab on January 26, 2012, 07:15:02 pm
Oh my word  :o now that's a trip.

rather late than never, amazing reading  :drif:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Just_Plain_Dan on February 24, 2012, 10:10:27 am
Ja ek kan nie glo ek lees hierdie nou eers nie!

Dis spectacular!

Ek kan mar net droom om eendag so trip te doen! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: wolfman on March 18, 2012, 10:49:57 pm
MJ & Co

Well done!

I think I've read this one now for the 3rd time (as your other reports). You should really consider publishing all of your various adventures together in book [or ebook] format - you are way to humble... This is hardcore man. I rate it on par if not better than Long Way Round and Long Way Down

Best of luck to you and your mates with your future en devours and thank you for sharing

 :wav:







Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Wooly Bugger on August 01, 2012, 03:34:20 pm
awesome!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: jorust on August 01, 2012, 09:27:11 pm
Awesome report!!  :thumleft:  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Hoorn on August 01, 2012, 10:15:51 pm
Thanks for an excellent RR! I love the way you interact with the people of Angola. The "doodsakker" stretch was gripping.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Funtana on August 03, 2012, 02:24:33 pm
Dankie vir die lekker lees materiaal.  Fred  extra respek vir jou . Jy het hoë pyn drumpel. Om bike tery met gekraakte enkel onder die omstandighede. Jy is Yster ou Mater !
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Noneking on August 20, 2012, 09:15:46 am
Fantastic read!

Sent the 15MB pdf file to my buddies to read! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Offshore on October 05, 2012, 04:37:09 pm
Great stuff. I felt as if I was part of the Team. Respect :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Gene on October 05, 2012, 05:39:43 pm
Now this is real riding - awesome... :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Offshore on October 06, 2012, 08:52:11 am
There is a Message in this RR. A smile on one's Face and a Positive Attitude can transform any situation and Life in general. It is very difficult for a normal Human Being to not engage with a person who has  a smile on his face and Humanity in his Heart. It is a hard fact that us Saffers should take to Heart, not only on our Travels but also within our own Country.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: vigilant on October 12, 2012, 08:26:57 am
There's so much in here ... i'm awed  :thumleft:

Will have to read it again ... and again just to be sure  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Vance on November 29, 2012, 11:58:54 am
Started reading late last and eventually finished at 2pm this morning.
GREAT report, awesome adventure ... wish I was there!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Daizy on August 30, 2013, 09:41:03 pm
Nice
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on September 17, 2013, 12:43:51 am
Just finished reading this one again ... and still as humbled by the achievements you guys reached as i was the first time. It's still a stunningly well compiled RR.

Thanks for sharing.

 8)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: ALLEN I on September 18, 2013, 12:56:41 am
No words to describe perfection.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: A/T on October 23, 2013, 09:38:08 am
Ek kon my nie keer om WEER hierdie RR te lees nie,best RR ever!! :)
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Barbelas on October 23, 2013, 01:02:40 pm
Totally wild man ,keep on writing .
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Baches on February 13, 2017, 06:48:21 pm
Ons ry die week dieselle roete as wat julle gery het. Ongelukkig met die bakkies maar dit gaan nog steeds lekker wees om te sien waar julle was ens.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: katana on April 09, 2017, 10:03:57 pm
I know my missus is peeved with me for reading the entire thread this evening.  It was worth it.  A mortal dreaming.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Kortbroek on April 10, 2017, 09:34:26 am
I know my missus is peeved with me for reading the entire thread this evening.  It was worth it.  A mortal dreaming.

No need to feel guilty. I was in the office at 05h30 today already, having a lot of work to get done this week. 2h20 ago I stumbled onto this thread when I glanced at WD and I just could not stop reading. Now I'm going to have to work 2 hours later tonight to make up for it, but was worth every minute.
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: 1ougat on April 10, 2017, 09:39:36 am
 :thumleft: :sip:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Welsh on April 10, 2017, 06:29:18 pm
I know my missus is peeved with me for reading the entire thread this evening.  It was worth it.  A mortal dreaming.

No need to feel guilty. I was in the office at 05h30 today already, having a lot of work to get done this week. 2h20 ago I stumbled onto this thread when I glanced at WD and I just could not stop reading. Now I'm going to have to work 2 hours later tonight to make up for it, but was worth every minute.

On the original posting, it was also posted on ADV Rider, those snow bound cabin fevered Septics were salivating for the next post.... :biggrin: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: sackett on December 26, 2018, 06:36:34 pm
Just read this after following a link from another post - couple of comments:
1. FAAAAARRRRK!!!!! true adventurers - Livingstone se ma - that'll show 'the long way' what true grit is actually about!
2. Hats off to all these guys but especially Fred - imagine doing all that for so long with a broken (not strained or torn) ankle!!!!
3. Africa will always surprise you
4.  Fornicate all Politicians - they turn their own inadequacies into a 'mine is bigger than yours' competition everytime - a few Black Labels would have prevented all that unfriendliness.
Great read guys!!!
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Damaraland on April 25, 2019, 09:04:30 am
This post is not a highjack, just wanted to give everyone a update on Jose a decade later, seeing as he is such a central figure in this RR.  Not sure if MJ and co still follow this thread, but if you do then this is for you - he remembers you guys well.

Anyway - this report was my initial inspiration for doing an unsupported trip through Angola - have now done it multiple times and am a much richer person for it.  Unfortunately Jose's Biker Bar has closed down (partner did him in) but Jose is still doing great and the Falcons still tear it up playing band in Lubango. 

We ran into him at the foot Leba pass, turns out the Lubango bikers club had their Sunday outride that day.  It started coming down big time and these guys made a convoy, with us in the middle, being on 500's with knobbies we obviously couldn't go fast in the rain and they shielded us from traffic, and Jose put us up for the night.

Some pics of him:

They bought us lunch at the stalls at the foot:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/Laagk6a4Im9II1NptcUo5_kClpaImVd7jl2QuLWg3x42Y1_-ZOijTT3rg-DKhBTJuVTQelvYvSYdlHcl_cQkzj7hsRu-o--5BF5Ax_YYnkvM5R6WB3ZrU3jJYlVbVwNSEuv-9M7CACnbL4S2QquOMLHIWQVZusces5rtZllttgZe0Vs9O-3jOkJI4FLK7VZSA3hodCAeaAHsw5VWNTPD5fqDyOd9xDW0aGm0RniOqU7_hN927V-3tKhF82lFIcz73jxpSnUICKbs5EQLMl1uF9dl7a1MdBd1k7-LR0pQCYAhdy8UPT5csyENncQKvptShsQQdH2p6rwAP3jYyMK13FeGLOKsrU8L7V1hhou_pD0mIBCe_NWpGj5nRPtJOEtPz0xLaRVsmjGTyU9Oi68SG0pvx2TaXjOguxiNo7opK04aipI2ncYragUagJe8yS6UJ75jeoUutfj2jhaXiuUvi0MBPmMCzUOfr44KCvmt_XFgg4W4ibk_II1bHzxzWzW0wgLgJEfp96vJd0HR_I9hVhd7CLiLWWxJk6CIpVGlOmc70IeC4zT3PluJJySjxMF4VkeBgrPqkcEhTqeD5-MIMksrfhrhEpj-v-prPwBDm6Up8Vk4rE3-l5fzlKqXqS0gFnW_JfKNeFzyT-fM7MeJBXOyEoXtWkLB3pkMEpacvUgCnL0gd-1iZwtAoXk4wbkqAgqMCGiqVO5HtPFB0V-C2zBV=w1249-h938-no)

On top of the pass:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/A4yhOLnFrGBMt1joj958EsknphZ_ogmMnwW7EfnJZmet3TstW1rRy8oe68LOP_netkfTjP_FnxXTw8a-dpVP7Va9wIK_zh3rMBCgNVF9nrEkgzN0emF6qoQ6EveHpPnwIbnvwDHbF8lXSIoTTRAvsIgMrEULwxH0nLxYY8273BPZlDeLrOEaSnyHE88K1mA-mRQlJw1-TbHN0Okqo-DRPPZxGJWp4eCX2eIlvITX1OPmb1Qb69_x4tf3Dsr30F_UDcJzKZxggXRx-cbo9Uy2wWRdukglSig1ttKup2Z9WjuwTeaQ7xP0ORN3mOk2gunP2d_Bt1iMLZi4orZiz7PSvGeoUf0o8o3erGZP_hDSm3y3Xdaj-SMYXdP-LZBQ6eIj27MuGi602BAGGcJIun0Nz_aOvyp_ODPUfMW5DDiyhnqbwyEygrbW4FKLE22yNtXjsdAkcLWypDZmrYLeHVZgZrTD5c9xtaoUY6vmT_EuNXb84vQBdK9vUOwHqC-LG8WlQwuzvQqSFWAXNqXA9YdnCH1jr0qfCxnl3QjOVwezpSWpchtiNmWIj1nyjhPUmL_JcYkAcBjZhmK8AMxVT0q7lHz9O2vSuviqGPFOetGp8lSXsEAItaEJIiRWB9qf8cJymc_WdZsQM8MSzkIIQN0sXpvCKNpt4tLHWgpcnEBwz4Za9CUIYiPe4K5IVtcHu5JUyw8o7ucoyPGcLzqYZXJARJdq=w1250-h938-no)

Jose helping a crazy Brit plan a route:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/TyPvZTbOMARNAosaifnTx3t-UslbtGJB3b0rRKyXBsG1kgRy2bRnWjGNUUP67E7OGvLjERv2OwT-_JCJ8mqJyApFcfktkhxZr1XPLfPN6R10JCHPO1fVjScSTVD2l37T-1okqMVHiqHbWLxCa9hdohNFtEHWtbIR-voNU0LI1zYdnjAY1djpbGRaUhHRtqaAtQtaMQri3wtFePAA8_I4Net7hzRpRKzl-KxHqmGNRK0sw1cjWakS1FLT-hKKz-Ry0AUFRO4DlWmfUk6z5_Ur5njCyvDGU3U6xE3BX-R8N2X43W354Jv21k89CjypQHDyl9n6Xek-kRJM-KBxr7N358tEcdLgHPgZKZfvfOVaRjciodqvPoaPNTKzrwt_PMiTEBKSvB_1Y5hFbhjBOlg7p4UjMDIO4v_gfPF9y9DFzQTgtRInBsZ4LiGt4UDNFLiwbTqGXqQVL-KcebnABlsVxyWJ1w1ETH7BLK0YJwh4jQl3gc75DrnmZGsGGBdTjJJ85UdkO_BUlYEqsMGf3KWUu8tz70KGqDJuN9yegbOTaV2xUh43CsQsCzmcwGJBkDVj9WsCj-CIU90gv-6N92M3rsX0linvADtqVvUJh8UrtEKvCsDwwR_AWZAMzeFvGWDNUdtdkLxXC1yQKwSORbfC_4tZ7-IdeVjMF6E0Svr9Ys3DOo5OIQWOOcGZRm37cJjiwd0ozIFhLYVNVWgXHhGOfTDJ=w1250-h938-no)

Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Grunder on April 26, 2019, 09:27:38 am
This is a RR that keeps on giving.

Spend last couple of hours reading it.  What an amazing trip.

I would NEVER have the balls to go through the Doodsakker. 

Hats of gentlemen  :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: weskus on April 26, 2019, 10:09:55 am
Still the best trip I've done to date. Jose also treated us like kings, glad to see he's still doing so..
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: punisher on April 26, 2019, 10:13:58 am
 O0
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: ClimbingTurtle on April 26, 2019, 10:18:45 am
Angola is right at the top of my wish-list, DoodsAkker moreso......

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, it's not like they said.
Post by: Noneking on April 26, 2019, 10:20:07 am
Always a lekker read!