Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => Topic started by: Hubs640 on January 20, 2013, 11:24:34 am

Title: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on January 20, 2013, 11:24:34 am
An EPIC journey of two friends [myself and Zarin....AKA Roadkill] on KTM's through southern Africa. 9 countries , 13000km over 2 months! Good times , hard times and the best times all to be told.....I am new to the forum and not the brightest when it comes to computers,so as soon as I have figured out how to load pic's properly then I will start the report. Again - it was a trip of a life time!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: trevorwb on January 20, 2013, 12:02:18 pm
Waiting.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: jorust on January 20, 2013, 05:29:03 pm
 :sip: Sub
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: goblin on January 20, 2013, 07:31:08 pm
.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: aka.Goliath on January 21, 2013, 02:03:26 am
 :sip: Sub
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Geotraveller on January 21, 2013, 03:04:01 pm
Is jou voete te rou om te tik? Kom broer ons wag.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Lourens ツ on January 21, 2013, 03:05:26 pm
:sip: Sub
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: bradleys on January 21, 2013, 03:15:29 pm
 :peepwall: :sip:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on January 22, 2013, 09:33:31 pm
Ok-still working on the foto's,but that might take a while,so here goes in the meantime. The whole story started around a fire [like many good idea's]. We were both gatvol of the boring rat race and was in need of some serious adventure. Roadkill has played with the idea of an African trip for a long time and I wanted to go sail the world. A few more brandy's later and I was convinced a trip through Africa was exactly the adventure needed , but there was a problem....I think Roadkill's exact words were 'You don't even have a bike!' Small obstacle,but a necessary item. To be honest I have never owned a bike nor do I have a license! I was never a big BMW fan so for me it boiled down to a KLR or KTM . 2 months later I asked my companion to come have a look at my new baby....2007/640 adventure with only 8000km on the clock and all the extras! Man I was excited! And so the planning could begin. We gave ourselves 1 year to prep and get ready with neither of us having done anything like this. The original plan was to do it over 6 months,but even after threatening to quite our jobs we could only manage 2 months and still retain a job.
At first it seamed very simple - pack a tent,fill the tank and off you go! Man was I wrong...I soon realized it would take allot more planning and paperwork than just that,but with the both of us as exited as a school boy at a sokkie we soon had a list of things to do and would get together once a month and discuss progress.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Geotraveller on January 22, 2013, 09:35:43 pm
 :sip: nou roer dit!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on January 22, 2013, 10:42:01 pm
The route was the least of our problems - we stuck a hugh detailed map of Africa up on the wall and high lighted all the 'must see's' in the Southern hemisphere. We figured we could do 350km a day and every 3rd day a rest day -after all,it was an adventure,not a holiday. We planned on taking rods with and follow the rivers and lakes with the chance of a 'nat lyn' along the way and thus the route sort of formed itself. we would go north up the west coast into Namibia and the hook east and try go as north as K2 and then back down the east coast back to Cape Town.We would take a GPS with Tracks for Africa and some road maps and play it by ear.
But first the bike's - Roadkill has a 2010 / 690 Enduro which he has been riding for a year.He imported the Rally Raid long range tank and fairing kit and pannier racks and installed them himself. He decided to go for the soft luggage system and added some crash bars. I had very little to do on my 640 since it came with allu panniers,crash bars and bash plate and only added some small extras for comfort.
Fiscal fitness was a hugh concern - we grabbed every opportunity we could to do weekend trips away and ride every terrain possible from gravel ,rocky mountains,sand,dunes to even snow. Our sanity was questioned more than once by smaller bikes in the dunes - 35 degrees with full kit on a 180kg bike in Atlantas was no joke,but that's how committed we were.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Kawaki on January 30, 2013, 04:43:55 pm
 :pot:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Philemon on January 30, 2013, 05:07:18 pm
Keep it coming . . . . .    :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Onetime on January 30, 2013, 05:10:55 pm
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: bradleys on January 31, 2013, 12:38:29 pm
 :pot: :ricky: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Pietcoke on January 31, 2013, 01:25:34 pm
 :sip: ::)
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: MURPHY on January 31, 2013, 02:20:14 pm
Come on now - weres the rest , a few of us are planning almost the same trip so very keen to hear your story . pics pics pics......!!!!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: pieman on January 31, 2013, 02:29:18 pm
Hmmmm, slow typer.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Dirt Junkie on January 31, 2013, 03:33:42 pm
Posting your pics and images using an Image Hosting Service
http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=1308.0 (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=1308.0)
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: 1ougat on January 31, 2013, 03:51:21 pm
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Road Hog on January 31, 2013, 06:47:14 pm
 :sip:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Roadkill on January 31, 2013, 07:52:47 pm
mmm sounds like a great story ,,, now keep it coming  :pot:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Bokveld on January 31, 2013, 08:50:32 pm
    Looking forward to this.So,take your time,I can wait.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Mr Zog on January 31, 2013, 08:51:37 pm
Subscribed  :sip:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Casting from Turd on January 31, 2013, 08:58:51 pm
 :sip:  :deal: Waiting
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 05:43:31 am
Sorry for the delay guy's,but money does not fall from the sky...damn i wish it did!
Ok - I am not sure how in depth I should go on the prep of this trip - pretty sure everyone just wants to know the rr , but for all you planning a trip like this - this forum and adv rider was all I needed to answer all my questions regarding Carnet's and Thirdparty Insurance. Bike insurance I got at Wheels [very few insurance companies out there that will insure your bike-apparently too high risk] and bike prep we just used common since. The rest I will explain as we go along
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Kameel on February 09, 2013, 05:53:52 am
:useless:

 :imaposer: please show us some peeeeeeeeeekchas! Pretty pleeeeeeeaaaaassssseeee?
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:04:58 am
GeelKameel-I am freeken trying! How do I get the pics smaller?
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:18:07 am
Ok I think I have it.
The 2 beauties about to be put to the test!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:20:05 am
Dammit-wrong pic. Here goes
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:32:44 am
OK finally!
Day 1 - Paarl to Nieuhoutville [340km -50% gravel]

So with bikes heavily loaded and a quick egg breakfast we left Paarl -the plan was to go as far north as possible doing as much dirt as we could. We both had Michellin Deserts front and rear and wanted to see them last. We rode though Wellington towards Gouda then Citrusdal to Clanwilliam until we finally got to some dirt. We have ridden this before,but the dam stay's a beautifully sight and the road allot of fun. From there we headed for Calvinia though Pakhuis Pass - stunning scenery and fast gravel. Just before Calvinia we hooked a left towards Nieuhoutsville where we would stay the night. There is a toppie that owns the camp site that has helped us before with steak,wood and dop [on a Sunday] which was very helpfull again.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:47:14 am
Day 2 - Nieuhoutville to Pofadder [ 320km , 70% gravel]

First day breaking down camp took longer than we thought,but we made time to go to the bike museum in town before we left. The night was cold so we waited for things to warm up first. From hear we did 60km tar towards Loeriesfontein. From there it was a challenging gravel road with high 'middel mannetjies' and soft sand patches. Very few bakkies on the road was an indication that we ARE on the lesser travel roads already. The lands were barren with miles and miles of nothing - if you saw a tree,you stopped,because the next one could be another 20km....and it was hot. ATGAT....all the gear all the time....that was the motto although we suffered in the sun. We reached Pofadder late afternoon with sore bodies,but high spirits since we were only 50km from the border....some how it felt that the trip only starts once we crossed a border.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:49:09 am
The bike museum on Nieuhoutville
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:51:00 am
Road between Loeriesfontein and Pofadder.....Man it was hot!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:53:13 am
Camp spot in Pofadder. We first went for a dip in the pool at the hotel and then a massive steak on the fire!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: whitedelight on February 09, 2013, 06:54:54 am
Nice,looking forward to the rest
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: BiG DoM on February 09, 2013, 07:28:50 am
sub
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Casting from Turd on February 09, 2013, 09:32:57 am
 :sip:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 12:17:36 pm
Day 3 - Pofadder to Seeheim/Namibia [345km , 60% gravel]

The 50km stretch to the border [Onseepkans post] from Pofadder starts off nice,but then things become REALLY interesting. Soft soft sand with high centers and big trucks driving like maniacs. Funny how you think you know sand till that moment 'close call' that leaves adrenaline rushing though you followed by a sigh and a big smile! At the border the police were very friendly and more interested in the bikes than checking us in. Our papers were in order and we were sent over the bridge to the Nam side where things look like a war has just finished. Buildings under construction and toilets with no doors to them.This 'taking gear off...putting it on' just to do it another 2 km further was already irritating me....little did I know it was only the start. Stories were told of some 'windgat' guy's on bike's that came through there a week before that never made it more that 5km into Nam and had to return to SA after one guy had a bad fall.I soon saw why its possible - the dirt roads on the Nam side are like highway's....you can easily cruise at 120 even with all the weight. Every now and then there is still a patch of loose sand that keeps your ass off the seat. First stop was Karasburg for a siggy and a coke. From there we did a boring tar section to Grunau where we refueled. Then it was another dirt road through Karas to Seeheim - Roadkill had a close encounter with a mining truck...trying to overtake one with a oncoming truck appearing in the dust....be carefull on that road. There is absolutely nothing in Seeheim other than a nice hotel with a pool to cool off in,so we decided to camp there for the night. They helped us with a 'braai pack' and kameeldoring [comodity to us,but like blackwattle to them] and some Tafel to wash everything down.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 12:21:28 pm
I love my country :o
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 12:35:25 pm
Seeheim hotel
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 12:59:45 pm
Day 4 - Seeheim to Zaris [ 430km - 95% gravel]

We met this guy [Johan] at the hotel who has traveled extensively himself and told us how to read an Namibian map properly with the C,D and F roads. We then [staying off the beaten track] tried to connect all the D roads in the direction we wanted to go. This led us through some amazing scenery...high peaks that drop off into deep valley's with wild horses running around and goats doing there thing. Through farms that you cannot help but wonder what exactly they are farming with,because there is so little. We reached Bethanie and came across our first Overlander truck - we were looking forward to these and the females they might bring from over see,but this one only had grumpy Germans in. Fueled up en moved on to Helmeringhausen which only has a fuel pump and a hotel and bumped into the same damn truck.From there to Betta we went through the most amazing scenery of mountains and large open plane's. The road had sneaky 'storm water canals' that would appear only on the last minute...traveling at those speeds you have very little chance of braking and all that is left to do is to hold on and hope for the best....I would ramp of the decline and be spat out the other side wondering if my panniers were still intact. We stopped under the only tree for lunch to admire the beautifully nature. After fueling up at Betta we encountered the red devil....red sand that is!Sand is one thing - this red powder is a whole different storie! We originally aimed for Siesriem,but after taking the wrong turn and with the sun going down we settled for a lodge just outside Zaris called Hammerstein[Hammertime]. At first it looked WAY too expensive for us [Our budget was R80 a day for camping] , but after a long day in the saddle and sore arms even a rock would be comfortable. In the end it was not that expensive - we had brandy at the bar and settle for canned food for the night [ we carried enough food for 4 nights...always].The lodge was nice and had Springbuck walking around freely with some leopards and sable behind fences.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:02:47 pm
Stunning valley's on the D-roads
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:04:16 pm
Some more highway's
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:06:17 pm
Great open spaces
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:08:14 pm
Picnic with a view - nobody for miles
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:10:01 pm
Add for the KTM Sable campaign
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:48:59 pm
Day 5 - Zaris to Swakopmund [410km , 80% gravel]

This was by far one of THE most challenging legs of the trip - fiscally and mentally. We left Hammertime early and by now the confidence level is pretty high,still it takes about 100km in the morning to get there. Our first stop was Solitaire through the Namib Naukluft park - what a beautiful place - this nothingness with its silents is something amazing. From Solitaire the road turned into a daemon...loose gravel with corrugation that will leave dents in your teeth. We later found out that the contracting company to maintain the road has stop doing so and the government does not care. We went through the Gaub and Kuiseb pass,but I failed to see the beauty having such a hard time staying on the road. We met 2 guy's from England that has done the west coast of Africa from the north and now heading south-smoked some siggies together and shared stories while baking in the heat. The corrugation got so hectic that we got separated at a smoke stop - I just wanted to get it over with...bad idea. With the sand being so white it is difficult to see the sand patches and the constant consentration required combined with hanging on to your teeth soon took its toll with a few near oopsies. Then the landscape changed into high dunes and strong winds - this could only mean we were nearing the coast. We road past dune 7 which looked like Kilimountjaro in the distance and then reached Walvisbay.At this point we were both moer-toe....fueled up and did the last stretch to Swakopmund all along the beach. Amazing to see how the dunes rule in this part of the world - it consumes what it wants,period. At Swakop we stopped at the PnP to stock up then found Mile 4 campsite on the far side of town....soon the tents were up and the fire burning and all the wounds licked with a stiff brandy.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:51:29 pm
Namib Park
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:54:00 pm
Lots of dust and open space's
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 01:57:27 pm
Making friends allong the road
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: BiG DoM on February 09, 2013, 02:15:23 pm
Day 5 - Zaris to Swakopmund [410km , 80% gravel]

This was by far one of THE most challenging legs of the trip - fiscally and mentally. We left Hammertime early and by now the confidence level is pretty high,still it takes about 100km in the morning to get there.

I am sure you mean 'physically and mentally '(you also spoke earlier fiscal fitness) = fiscal means butgetry finance. Sorry not to nit pick your english but it raised a question that I think would be great if you also tell us how much this trippie cost and alerts to rip-offs and where one can save bucks. Lekker RR so far guys  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 06:28:20 pm
Day 6 - Swakopmund

Our first off day was spent checking the bikes over and giving them some TLC like needed fresh air filters - these dusty roads really had their toll on them.We both had steal sprockets and golden x-ring chains on which we sprayed every day. We took tools and links with in case it would ever brake[never needed it] and other spares included oil,filters, spark plugs and even wheel bearings with a press Roadkill made that also acts as a jack.
The luggage rack were surprisingly intact and the WP suspension solid.
For the rest of the day we tried to fish [unsuksessfully] , did some washing and through more meat on the braai. Our route was never defined - we would discuss it over a cup of coffee in the morning,have a outs-so-easy and off we went.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:08:26 pm
Mile 4 camp site - apparently full during December. Now it looks like a graveyard
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:10:40 pm
Out fishing
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:25:14 pm
Day 7 - Swakopmund to Outjo [530km , 90% gravel]
 
We headed north towards Hentiesbaai on a road almost as hard as tar and then followed the C35 to Uis where we fueled up again. Its a long boring road,but it felt nice to get out of the desert. From Uis we tried a D road [short cut] to Outjo which led us to a gate...locked with no key and no way around. The landscape has changed to something you would see in Sun City with fun curved roads.We then took a 100km detour which lead us through a game farm to Kalkfeld. We probably open and closed about 20 gates over 40km....damn irritating,but at least there were some wild life. And again both maps were wrong - no fuel at Kalkfeld,so we had to push on.It started getting dark and bodies were sore,so we found a safari camp [Sasa Safari] just 20 km short of Outjo and pulled in there for the night. They were full,but after some flirting with the gay host we even got cold beer!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:27:59 pm
Henties
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:30:23 pm
Another pit stop from the heat
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:39:21 pm
View from Sasa Safari bar
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:52:46 pm
Day 8 - Outjo to Tsumeb [ 270km , 85% gravel]

The day started late due to the sore bodies of the previous day - I saw buck eating but 50 meter from where we camped as we left. In Outjo we stopped for petrol - its a big touristic town,but the people are becoming more friendly the further north we go and Rand is still excepted everywhere,so is Afrikaans. With more greenery along the road comes more bugs and baboons crossing the road as the peaks start rising next the road. The roads were nice and scraped often so we could manage a decent speed. We went through Otavi till we got to the industrial town call Tsumeb. There we found a Dros...amazing,exactly like in SA,but this one had a fancy camp site attached to it with a Olympic size swimming pool! We stayed for the night and I had a chance to give some attention to a slow puncture on the front....first of the trip and it was not even my fault!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:56:33 pm
Ant another story
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 08:58:39 pm
Greenery starts again
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 09, 2013, 09:00:24 pm
Dros in Tsumeb
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Kameel on February 09, 2013, 09:07:04 pm
Wow! Worth the wait. Looked like you guys enjoyed it. Thanks for the RR. One day I will do this. One day...
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 10, 2013, 02:51:46 pm
Day 9 - Tsumeb to Rundu [ 360km , 60% gravel]

We started off early and took the road to Grootfontein for 13km then hooked a left onto a D road towards Abenab. We wanted to go see one of the big tree's - this one being a Boabab. On the way we saw our first elephant crossing the road....it turned out to be a horse and a donkey with luggage on...man we felt stupid! The roads were nice with small bridges to cross and nice corners.The landscape has changed completely and even have palm tree's amongst the forestry. The spot where the tree is,is completely fenced off and you have to walk 100 meter or so to get there,but man what an awesome sight - trees that size demand respect. 60km further we joint the tar road we were trying to miss ,but there are very few confirmed dirt roads going north,so we pumped the tyre's hard and off we went. While taking it easy on the tar to save tread Roadkill noticed a dirt road parallel to us....awesome....and that is where I had my second flat. Again in respect of the Desert it was my 'ducktape quick solution' around the inside of the rim to cover the spokes that came loose because of the heat and has now shaved through the tube and not a puncture through the tyre. Anyway-never fun to fix a wheel on the side of the road in the heat. The last stretch of tar to Rundu is the most boring,strait road I have ever seen! At least the people are friendly and forever waving. There where we stopped,people would come to inspect the bikes and take photo's[thouse we had phones]. We decided on a lodge just outside Rundu called Kaisosi Lodge - definitely worth the visit and budget friendly. The bar has themost amazing wood finishes and the staff really friendly. The workshop helped me to weld my crash bar that has taken too much punishment - due to a fall or just vibration....hmm,who knows. Mozzi's are also a reality here and it was time to start covering up at night.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 10, 2013, 03:03:26 pm
BIG Boabab
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 10, 2013, 03:12:01 pm
Friendly Africans - they have nothing yet they have everything
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: MOGGIE on February 10, 2013, 05:24:30 pm
Nice R&R, keep it up.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: lj111 on February 10, 2013, 08:05:19 pm
 :thumleft: :drif: :sip:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 05:42:21 pm
Camp spot at Rundu ....showers and toilet....a privilege at this point of the trip
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 05:43:41 pm
Helpful workshop staff welding my crash bars
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 05:44:43 pm
Beautiful wood finishes on the bar
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:10:00 pm
Day 10 & 11 - Rundu to Bagani [ 240km , 70% gravel]

With repairs in place and Roadkill back from a successful shopping mission we hit the road again. We stuck to a dirt road between the Okawango river and the tar road leading to Caprivi experiencing Africa in its true form with people and goats in the road and grass huts with small gatherings happening alongside. I am sure we were not the first bikes to come through here,but the stares we got could proof me wrong. The road was badly corrugated and Trekka took a punishment, again - this time the luggage rack,so we were forced to head back to the tar road for the last stretch. We stopped at a few places in the hope to find a welder,but with no luck we took a chance to head strait to the next camp in the hope that somebody there could help. Just before  the turn off we saw the most amazing thing....thousands of hawk's darting through the air catching bugs....and I mean thousands!A challenging road got us to our next stop...Ngepi River Lodge...what an awesome place! Completely natural and self sustainable with solar power and water from the river. Nice grass camp site's and a funny sense of humor. Every toilet and shower has a theme....dump with a view of the river and I was intent to try everyone. There is a steal cage in the river to swim freely from any croc's and a friendly bar to entertain. There were 650 species of birds and hippo's drifting down the river to watch off the sun deck while sipping on a brandy - we loved it so much that we stayed another day. And if your timing is right you could even see the lesser spotted 'wit quagga',but to get her to come to your tent turned out to be too much of a challenge.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:25:00 pm
Fish-eagle bath
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:26:02 pm
Forest showers
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:27:16 pm
Check the lock on 'His'
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:28:40 pm
Part time!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:29:58 pm
Croc-safe-pool
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:31:01 pm
Cheeky stuff
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:32:00 pm
Nice grass camp spots
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:33:19 pm
The sounds of fish eagles are just amazing
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 06:56:23 pm
Day 12 - Bagani to Kongola [ 230km , 80% tar]

After a R600 brandy bill we decided it was time to move on. They were unable to assist me with a weld job due to solar being their only power,but made a plan with trustworthy 'blou draad' till the next spot. But to get there we had to do the 200km tar road through Caprivi Game reserve-we saw a couple of Kudu's and some Warthogs,but no Elephants. In Kongola I found a guy that helped with the weld repair [road-side-job] which Roadkill ended up doing since that guy could hardly tell the difference between the luggage rack and his foot from welding without glasses. At Ngepi we were told of another bush camp outside Kongola [which was right down our alley] and by pure coincidence we bumped into the owner  at the garage who then let us follow him....we would not have found the place otherwise. A sandy jeep-track brought us to Mushi-river Lodge - in the bush with no fencing....nice. We pitched our tents next to the river on the camp spots. The hippo droppings got me a bit nervous,but Doug [the owner] assured us that if you lay completely still in your tent , the hippo's will show no interest when grazing at night.I had no problem sleeping that night,but Roadkill said my snoring cheered the hippo's on  which came right through between our tents...I think he is lying,but the fresh droppings showed some truth. I did however recall hearing loud rawr on the other side of the river . Again the people were friendly and invited us over to share stories around their fire. Mozzi's were everywhere.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 07:00:11 pm
Road side repair
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 07:01:52 pm
Mushi-river bush camp....nobody around for mile's.....NICE
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 07:03:08 pm
Camp spot right by the river - we were the only campers there
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 07:04:13 pm
I don't know why,but that's funny!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 11, 2013, 07:05:00 pm
Dan the owner
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 05:22:59 pm
Day 13 & 14 - Kongola to Katima [300km , 50% gravel]

We decided to take the long [gravel] route to Katima which took us south east at first then north east again. The Chinese are working on the road [and will be for a long time by the looks of it] and left a detour path along side the road,but never thought of allowing for any drainage. At the time there has only been a few showers,but the locals will definitely be stranded when it starts bucketing down. It was also our first encounter of pools and mud terrain and were loving it!I had my first proper laps of talent crossing a big puddle and my front wheel disappeared leaving me swimming.....Roadkill came to the rescue and stepped in the SAME hole which sent him swimming too....the best was that his helmet mount go-pro recorded the whole scenario! After a siggie and some laughs we did the rest of the road to Katima - busy town. By now I have grown fond of the quite wilderness and open spaces and got extremely irritated in busy,chaotic towns,but the only reason we went was to stock up on supplies and managed to do that in record time.We visited a guy call Keith at Caprivi lodge who did a solo trip on a KLR through Zambia to see if we can get some more info on what was laying ahead...old guy set in his way's who criticized our amount of luggage and over kill of safety gear....he did his trip in jeans and vellies. From there we went to Island View river lodge for another attempt to catch the illusive Tiger Fish. It was dark and raining when we got there,but that did not scare us South Africans off from making a fire and braaing chicken just bought in town....ok it did take some 'dutch' courage and petrol,but nothing stops a hungry man.
In the morning we met the owners and the guide who was taking us up river to fish - all were surprised to know that we braaied in the rain. Again a very nice place owned by friendly people - they even offered to put our wet clothes in the dryer whilst we go fishing.the boat trip took about 20 min to get to the main part of the Zambezi- and it was still raining-we both had one shot,my fish came off the hook and Roaddkills line snapped as the fish got along side the boat,but man,what a rush!With the boat charging per hour,our money ran out so it was back to the bar to drown our sorrow's
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 05:29:21 pm
The puddle in the back ground that sent us both swimming
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 05:38:13 pm
Camp site at Island View river lodge. I did not take too many pics since it was raining the whole time we were there
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 05:58:21 pm
Day 15 - Katima to Kasane/Botswana [160km , 90% tar]

Our fishing attempt was a fail and we were eager to get out the rain. The road leading out from the lodge was propper mud with a few evidence tracks of cars that has slipped off the side. It took some concentration,but in no time we were back on the tar without any off's. 60km further we got to the Botswana border post [Ngoma] with the sun shining for the first time in 3 day's. Again with the kit of - kit on - kit off - kit on nonsense and arrogant officials ,but after some 'whoosa' we were through and at the gate of Chobe National park leading to Kasane....the only reason they allow bikes through is because there is no other way and the chance of spotting wild is great. At first we saw some warthog and strange birds,but then elephants,Buffalo,sable,kudu and some other dear. I was still trying to get a good shot of the Buffalo when a troop of elephants crossed the road! A maniac in a bakkie came charging past and head strait through the middle of the heard which lead to the last female charging the both of us! What an awesome experience!In Kansane we got fuel,supplies and money and headed out of town to Sinyate safari camp. A sandy road lead us to this amazing camp - the bar is elevated with a bore hole in front where animals come to drink and there are no fences around and the Zimbabwe side 100 meter into the veld. According to the owner the area allows for 100 000 elephants,but currently there is about 170 000 roaming and you can see all the devastation they leave behind. Also lots of Blister Beatles to watch out for - they squirt their juice onto you and leave you with a nasty blister.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 05:59:43 pm
Ngoma border post in Botswana
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 06:01:01 pm
Elephants maby 30 meter into the bush
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 06:02:32 pm
Just too late to gget a good shot of the crossing - check the idiot bakkie in the distance
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 06:03:48 pm
Sinjate bush camp
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 14, 2013, 06:05:22 pm
The deck from where you can whatch the game that comes to drink at the water hole 20 meter further
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: chickenbadger on February 14, 2013, 06:49:02 pm
Sho! This is epic! Gives me goosebumps, I tell you! My own F800GS is currently getting crated and shipped tomorrow up to Kenya where I am joining it with a mate. We are riding down from Mombassa.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Difflock on February 14, 2013, 09:02:38 pm
Very very nice so far :thumleft: Great adventure.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 15, 2013, 09:57:01 am
Hey Chickenbadger,that sounds awesome! Which route will you be taking down? Are you stopping at Ngorogoro Crater -said to be spectacular. I am so jealous....I should NEVER have come back.....reality sucks....should have just kept going!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: chickenbadger on February 15, 2013, 01:27:36 pm
https://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msid=214572478979329946513.0004d5af95ca80db2d495&msa=0

Thats our route (roughly) on google maps... What do you think? Its still under scrutiny (i have asked the Wild Dogs to comment, but nothing so far).

Yeah im kukking myself to be honest...
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 15, 2013, 02:41:31 pm
Chickenbadger - that looks like an awesome trip! A few pointers if you want
- There is a ferry that runs from the Tanzanian side into Zambia over lake Tanganyika[sure I spelt it wrong] which is said to be awesome - that is the longest lake in the world.
- That top section of Zambia will be extremely muddy now - we did the beginning of the rainy season and only managed 100km a day in some area's...tough going,but good fun.
- Not sure what your time frame is,but allow for plenty along lake Malawi - that lake is beautiful! Cool places to visit is Mushroom Farm near Livingstonia , Majorca Village in Nkata bay and then Cape Mclear in the south - best diving!
- Do you plan to do Vic Falls? The river raft is a must....theyhave specials there...river raft and gorge swing for $80 and its loads of fun
- Check my rr about places in Caprivi strip - that Ngepi is also a must...very cool place

And don't be stressed dude - I only learned how to ride 1 year before I did my trip....a.t.g.a.t. and you will be fine. Oh - Tanzania and Malawi do not have unleaded...they have Super which is like 95,but just worse.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 15, 2013, 02:47:32 pm
Chickenbadger - Oh and an important thing - there was still some civil war going on in DRC when we passed through Zambia with Zambian soldiers patrolling the border for DRC dude's that come over to cause K@k....find out what the status is before you go and do not go too close to their border....your bike will look like a nice year end bonus.
How many of you are going?
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: chickenbadger on February 15, 2013, 03:06:09 pm
Chickenbadger - that looks like an awesome trip! A few pointers if you want
- There is a ferry that runs from the Tanzanian side into Zambia over lake Tanganyika[sure I spelt it wrong] which is said to be awesome - that is the longest lake in the world.
- That top section of Zambia will be extremely muddy now - we did the beginning of the rainy season and only managed 100km a day in some area's...tough going,but good fun.
- Not sure what your time frame is,but allow for plenty along lake Malawi - that lake is beautiful! Cool places to visit is Mushroom Farm near Livingstonia , Majorca Village in Nkata bay and then Cape Mclear in the south - best diving!
- Do you plan to do Vic Falls? The river raft is a must....theyhave specials there...river raft and gorge swing for $80 and its loads of fun
- Check my rr about places in Caprivi strip - that Ngepi is also a must...very cool place

And don't be stressed dude - I only learned how to ride 1 year before I did my trip....a.t.g.a.t. and you will be fine. Oh - Tanzania and Malawi do not have unleaded...they have Super which is like 95,but just worse.

Ah the fuel is a problem...

We are planning on doing that ferry, its gonna be a highlight of the trip! Im going with a friend of mine, we did the train from Zambia to Dar last year and had a blast, so this ferry is kinda like round two of that.

Ah, mud. Apparently its gonna me Pi$$ing down when we go, but I agree, take it slow and make it fun. We have time which is good. When you rush accidents happen.

I took a 1964 Bedford truck  from Nelspruit up to the top of Lake Malawi back in 2008 and had the time of my young life, hence getting back there as soon as I can, I think that is going to be another highlight to ride those roads on the bikes.

Vic falls is definitely on the list, on that Bedford truck mission we hit Vic Falls in a big way, we had such a lakker jol in Livingston.

This fuel thing is something to seriously look at... Thanks for the heads up...

Chickenbadger - Oh and an important thing - there was still some civil war going on in DRC when we passed through Zambia with Zambian soldiers patrolling the border for DRC dude's that come over to cause K@k....find out what the status is before you go and do not go too close to their border....your bike will look like a nice year end bonus.
How many of you are going?

We are getting quite close to the boarder along the lake region (Tanganyika and Lake Victoria). I am also a little nervous about the elections in Kenya in march (when our bike is heading over there). Last time elections happened - only 5 years ago - there was a mass killing.

Thats really good to know about the dudes that cruise over the boarder, maybe we should look at heading further east and coming down through Tanzania into Malawai and then into Zambia.

How did you find the accommodation in those regions? Was it pretty simple to pitch up and find a reasonably safe place to kip for the night?
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 04:23:46 pm
Day 16  - Kasane to Victoria Falls/Zimbabwe [90km , 100% tar]

We woke that morning to animal noises in our camp - it turned out to be Ferret Monkey's that has gotten hold of our oats-so-easy and stolen our sugar...they got it all in the morning. Everything happens for a reason and them waking us up was like a natural alarm to just make the elephant herd that was passing through less that 50 meter from our tents!We packed up camp and challenged the sand road leading out - this time without a fall.....amazing what a fresh set of arms and focus level can do. Roadkill went to town to source a piece of plumbing for his make shift tent holder while I went to source a welder for yet another crash bar repair. If you are ever in the same predicament - look up Ken Webster in Kazangulu...he charges reasonable and does a good job...and he is a biker himself.
After all was sorted we met at the garage and went to Kazangulu border post going into Zimbabwe....same arrogant idiots and this time you pay in US dollars!Nobody has change for notes,so everything is rounded off to the dollar and you end up loosing everytime! After kitting off and on a couple of time's,the kind gentleman at the gate had to proof his authority by making me do it for a 3rd time just for good measure - if only he understood Afrikaans.
30km Further we got to Vic Falls - the ride was boring as hell with no wild life [pretty sure everything is hunted since there is no concrete law agains it...or none that a dollar cannot change] in sight...we were blessed with a quick shower though. The town is unlike anything else in Zim...so touristic that its sickening! You get ripped off everywhere and hawkers trying to sell you anything from old notes to shirts and drugs. We then found a budget place [Shoestring] to set up camp and  got a brandy to relax.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 04:33:52 pm
Camp site at Shoestring
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 04:35:25 pm
The bar became extreamly busy at night...almost moered a rasta[wanna be] for the first time too
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 04:55:10 pm
Day 17 - Victoria Falls

We had an eventfull day planned and got going very early-the hang over was a bit of an annoyance. We were collected from the backpackers at 6-30 and taken to the Zambezi for our briefing....River rafting for breakfast! Man it was awesome....a total of 19 serious rapids will cure any hangover. Just be warned - what goes down,must come up and they don't warn you of the climb out of the gorge after a tiring 7 hour paddle. After that we went to do the Gorge Swing....I have done a bungee jump before,but still screamed like a little girl. Then we went to check out the falls itself...breathtaking! The river was quite low,but the views still amazing - the locals called it the 'Smoke that thunders' and you can see why.After that we were man down....eventually the adrenaline runs out and is replaced with tiredness....we treated ourselves to a pizza and got ready for the next day's leg.....so much for a rest day.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:06:19 pm
The way down into to gorge to get to the river
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:07:36 pm
Roadkill on the lookout for rapids....ha ha...little did we know what was lying ahead!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:08:42 pm
Serious rapids! We flipped twice....once on purpose....
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:10:21 pm
Vic Falls - it is hard to understand the amount of water that comes down there...and this is dry season
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:13:34 pm
This is on the Zambian side - called 'Danger pools'. A guide take you allong the edge of the falls to this spot...stupid if you ask me - look how close they are to the edge!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:29:42 pm
Day 18 - Vic Falls to Chizariza reserve [ 330km , 40% gravel]

We aimed for Kariba,but only managed to get going from Vic Falls past 11 am. We first did 120km of boring tar to Hwage for petrol and then did a narrow,but fun curvy tar section to Deka[which is not really a town]. We passed through many roadblocks,but with no trouble-they just want to know how much your bike costs and how fast it can go.From Deka it was dirt again with some sections that looks like a vehicle has never passed through there.The people look poor and the kids would run into the bush at the sound of the bikes approaching.From Mlibizi to Binga it was tar again with strong winds and some rain - also the most Boabab tree's I have ever seen.From Binga we did another 50 km of dirt until we had to find a place to sleep....the routine was to do as much km's as possible and at 4pm check on Tracks for Africa where the neerest place would be to allow for enough time to get there before the sun goes down.Tracks showed a lodge in Chizarira reserve just 12km further which ended up being a challenge to get too - right on top of a mountain. Loose sand and stone and tired arms caused a few falls and near tree miss'es,but managed to get there just before the sun sets. Once on top we were approached by a guy with torn clothes who claims to be the manager - it turned out the place is deserted and has been for 5 years! Very spooky-everything was left behind-even the furniture.Must have been political by the looks of it.We gave the guy some money and set up camp under the tree's. I was very nervous,because there were talks of man eating lions in the area,so I made a stick weapon to sleep with-like that would do anything....
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:36:51 pm
Village allong the way. Nice dirt roads
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:38:11 pm
The spooky lodge -must have been a nice place when it was still running...check the dried out pool
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 05:39:08 pm
The rooms were just left like that - see the decay in the deck
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 18, 2013, 06:09:55 pm
Day 19 - Chizarira to Kariba [ 460km , 50% heavy gravel]

We decided to stick to the northern part of Zimbabwe with the hope of getting close to the Zambezi again....the next spot would only be Kariba.I had a stressed night and was woken up by drums beating down in the valley - conviced it was cannibals we quickly pack up camp and hit the road. Petrol was a problem and towns that shows on the map end up not being towns at all. We were told to try and get some at Siabuwa,but that it would be after market petrol. The road changed from nice dirt with lots of fun to small loose stones with high centres that costs allot of concentration. The petrol was $15 for 5 litre and dodgy as hell,but we had no choice - Roadkill had sock inserts in his tank and I had an additional in-line fuel filter so we should be ok. At a t-junktion we had to decide between a 100km tar detour or another dodgy dirt section and with the bikes having suffered enough for the day we decided on the tar section to Karoi. There we got petrol out a pump and headed for the last section to Kariba in heavy rain. Very difficult to drive in such stormy conditions with big trucks and bad taxi's on the road. The last 80km of tar to Kariba was fun-the road twists and turns between the mountains until you get to the lake. Once there we had no idea were to go till an old toppie directed us to his local [we must have looked tired and lost] called Warthogs-nice place with allot of SA influence - this must be where all the white people went to when Mugabe chased them. After such a hard day we treated ourselves to steak and a roof over our heads with a fan in the cabin for the mozzi's...NICE
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Mark Hardy on February 18, 2013, 06:17:22 pm
 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

can't wait for the rest
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 01:44:07 pm
Massive Boababs along the way
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 01:45:35 pm
The general store that we managed to get after market petrol from....in the middle of nowhere
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 01:48:08 pm
Lake Kariba is huge and have allot of house boats in some bay's. Tiger fishing is also very popular,but it was outside our budget to try-the charter alone was over R1000
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 01:53:46 pm
Warthogs bar - nice crowd , budget friendly and very nice chow
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 01:54:57 pm
Our cabin - it was so nice to sleep in a bed for a change....with a fan - man its hot there
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 01:59:01 pm
That is us with Burt - a Belgium that has traveled solo all the way on his Transalp. Petrol brackets he made himself and did it on road tyre's with no punctures....almost unbelievable. He too has never ridden a bike before this trip-lucky bastard took 1 year off to do this - I wish him well
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Brandt on February 19, 2013, 02:32:28 pm
Very nice  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 02:47:50 pm
Day 20 - Kariba to Lusaka/Zambia [ 200km , 100% tar]

I woke at 2am due to a tooth ache and found that the power has tripped - on investigation I hear a group of hippo's not further that 20 meters away,grazing!
We had coffee that morning with Burt [the Belgium dude] and exchanged money and sim cards since he was going south and we north. While packing Roadkill nearly bumped heads with a green snake that was chilling in our cabin - not sure if it was there all night. The owners of Warthogs bought their son a PV50 and sprayed it orange and asked our help in hiding it from him-it was his Christmas present. We hid it between ours with a blanket over it - it was so cool to see this laaitie's face! He cruised around on that thing till we left.Kariba [the town] is right on the border and the exit from Zimbabwe went very quick. We then rode over the dam wall to the Zambian side which took MUCH longer to get through.And its expensive -$10 for customs,$20 for road levies and another $10 for road taxes! The scenery to Lusaka is beautiful with green mountains and nice view's,but the road is terrible with massive potholes.[We dubed the road 'Truck Eater' since we must have encountered 8 broken down trucks allong the way]. There is loads of Catholic churches and people selling malasha[charcoal] and petrol along side the road and the closer we came to Lusaka the busier the road got....traffic for the first time in almost 3 weeks!We found a place call Eureka farm just before the city centre and decided to stay there since it was close to where we needed to take our bikes for their scheduled service the next day. Ok place-not really something to write home about
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 05:16:19 pm
Truck-eating road leading to Lusaka
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 05:17:32 pm
Road leading to Eureka Farm - it was on quite a big small holding and there were some game roaming around
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 05:42:07 pm
Day 21 & 22 - Lusaka

You realise you are on holiday [or out the rat race] when you have no idea of what day of the week it is!We booked our service with Ray Wilson [the KTM dealer in Lusaka] months in advance and kept him in the loop of our progress as it was impossible to give him the exact date-we thought it was Friday,but it turned out to be Saturday!Luckily he was open and ready for us when we got there early the morning,but there was a spanner in the works....he sold our tyre's to somebody else and have none for us!!!!!We left the bikes there and headed for town to stock up. Working with so many currencies were becoming very confusing - our shopping came to 560 000 Kwacha's which sounded ridiculous. Back at KTM Ray had no solution to our tyre issue,but did not charge us for labour which was meant to make up for it.....but come on-how can it? Our fronts are still fine,but the rear's are looking like it could only do another 1000km or so.We headed back to camp and started a fire and put the thinking caps on. The only solution was to get tyre's couriered from SA,but with Dakar on,nobody had Michellin Deserts to sell and nobody was willing to help with getting it to us!Roadkill managed to arrange for a friend to collect some Mitas tyres in CT and courier them to Dar es Salam from where they then got taken to Mbya in Tanzania where we could collect,but that was still 3000km away and cost nearly R4000 per tyre! No tyre,no journey,so no choice.We spent the next day[had to wait till the Monday to put the plan into action] doing washing and conversing with our new friend Kano[a true Viking who hunts in Zambia]We took a walk into the bush to see some wild life-zebra's,antilope,diffuse waterbuck,kudu and a small heard of giraffe's who allowed us to come within 30 meters from them! Its was really special. An overlanding truck came by and turned out to be the most grumpy lot of travelers.....oooo...you've been to Africa.... We made an awesome veggie pack on the braai and washed it down with some brandy and got ready for the next day's ride..
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 05:53:10 pm
It was raining all the time and this seemed like the best way to keep everything dry.....it worked!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 05:54:16 pm
KTM Lusaka - neat workshop with all the gadgets,just no tyres
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 05:54:54 pm
Ray and his team
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 06:00:33 pm
Giraffe's in the bush - check the baby....man that was cool and they were so well camouflaged
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 19, 2013, 06:02:27 pm
Roadkill was complaining about all the unnecessary items we are transporting with us...like his ax,so we decided on collecting our own wood in the bush.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: goingnowherequickly on February 19, 2013, 09:54:55 pm
Really enjoying this report...
Keep it up :thumleft:
The axe , well its a hammer too... ;D
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 05:25:15 pm
Day 23 - Lusaka to Mkushi [ 370km , 60% gravel]

We woke up early and had a coffee with one of the overlander guy's before we got onto our serviced,washed,clean bike's to hit the road. It was Monday morning in peak traffic going through centre of the city....crazy-took us about 1 hour. On the way to Kabwe you pass through many small towns and all are selling fruits and veg on the side of the road. Lots of farming also happening-nice to see that the locals are making work of the fertile soil they have.In Kabwe Roadkill sealed the deal of getting the tyre's to Tanzania [after MUCH frustration I must add] and after a pie and a coke we were again reunited with the bush...it was so nice to get out the buzz of city life again. At the Mita river we crossed a pontoon which did not show on the map-after that we had a fun filled road with BIG pools requiring quick decision making and throwing the bike's weight around - awesome fun,but strenuous on the body.Then the paw paw hit the fan - it was starting to get dark,thick clouds of rain in the distance and we still have 60km to do till the next town!Now we joke about it,but that was hectic - it rained so hard that I could not see through my visor and Roadkill could not see at all with his goggles on. So there we were-doing 40km/h in the dark,me following a car in front and Roadkill following me on a badly corrugated road unable to see further than 15 meter. Once at the tar road we decided against our original camping plans and headed for the first motel we could find and what a dump we found....Mariana Hotel-130 000 Kwacha for a dodgy room with no electricity[the storm caused a power failure] and no water. But we were out the rain and it had a bar,so we calmed the nerves with a brandy and settled for canned supper...and we said we will never ride in the dark....never say never.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 05:31:01 pm
Traffic going through Lusaka on a Monday morning
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 05:32:27 pm
Pontoon at Mita river.....yeah,in the bush again!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 05:33:53 pm
Last light before the storm - man that was intense!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 05:35:25 pm
Dodgy Mariana Hotel - even the bike's got to sleep out the rain
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 05:50:58 pm
Day 24 - Mkushi to Kasanka National Park [ 240km , 80% tar]

Our plan was to head north ,stick close to the DRC border and see the lakes along the way. Roadkills side stand finally broke [he bent it on the 2nd day of the trip] and had to go find a welder while I waited for him at the garage - that took 2 hours and we only left after 1pm. Immediately we got heavy showers wet through up to my underpants it was actually cold on the bike....in Africa!It is so dangerous to ride in heavy rain even on tar - when a truck brakes down ,they through broken off branches in the road to warn you of what is further ahead...not the most genius way,but it works. We stopped along side the road to buy the biggest mushroom I have ever seen to cook for supper that night. At Serenje we had to wait for petrol [the truck was filling up the station] and got some supplies to go with the mushrooms while we waited. Then we got to Kasanka park - the biggest congregation of fruit bats in the world is sighted here only on certain times of the year and only if you are lucky. We were not....we were however aloud in with the bikes only to be turned around at the main camp to go camp at the gate again....12km to the camp and 12km back again in which time we missed the bats!It was dark already when we got to camp and experience THE most bugs I have ever seen/felt/tasted! Roadkill outdone himself with the mushrooms and just in time before the rain started again.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:05:35 pm
Check the size of those mushrooms! And the coulds in the background....we were running away from them
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:07:21 pm
This is the lake at Kasanka park where the bats come through at sundown....apparently so many that they block out the sun
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:08:24 pm
Mushrooms,garlic and onion....enough for 2 people for 2 meals!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: aka.Goliath on February 21, 2013, 06:13:26 pm
You guys still OK after those shrooms. :)
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:22:27 pm
Day 25 - Kasanka to Samfya [ 260km , 70% tar]

We waited for things to dry out a bit and had some more mushrooms for breakfast. The worst of wet gear must be putting your boots back on again-the camp cost us $10 and we got a hot shower for that - I shared mine with a lost bat and Roadkill got a spider sharing his...ha ha.Just a bit further down the road we got to the turnoff to Livingstone Memorial which took us on a 35km dirt road leading through some more modern villages built with bricks. Dr. David Livingstone , 1813-1873 ,died here of malaria [or a wound he got fighting a lion day's before he died] afterwhich his 2 companions cut his heart out,planted it under a tree and carried his body 1500km to Tanzania coast from where he was shipped to England....what a legend. We were shown pictures of the hut that was built for him to die in...strangely nothing has changed in 150 years.
The road further north is strait and boring - almost saw my ass when I deliberately rode into a flock of diving falcons to see how close I could get.After another rain cloud we came to Samfya next to Lake Bangweulu-stunning lake with white beach sand.We were told lake fishing is banned,yet we could buy some at the camp...wonder how mush longer there will be fish left in the lake. That night another storm passed over just while we were eating which turned our fish braai into fish soup. We found shelter in a half built building,but quickly returned to our tents when we saw the size spiders that were hiding there.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:26:27 pm
Camp at Kasanka
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:27:11 pm
Livingstone Memorial
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 21, 2013, 06:28:11 pm
Camp spot at Bangweulu - check the white sand....
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:04:02 pm
Day 26 - Samfya to Kawambwa [ 280km , 60% mud]

When we woke it was still raining - the half built building created some shelter for us to pack the bikes out the rain. Roadkill came up with this brilliant idea of taping our boots closed to keep it dry,but 10km further the rain stopped.It took 80km of tar road to get to the next town,Mansa,quite big and even have a Shoprite store. I calculated my fuel consumption for the first time - managed 470km on 1 tank at 26km/l...not bad. We fueled up and did 20km of tar to the edge of town till we got to the dirt road - bad at first with big potholes,but opened up gradually as we went over the mountain and started to become fun again....the mud was a huge challenge at first,but soon got comfortable and could manage to keep up with Roadkill-he had a close call with a goat that came out the bush and I nearly hit a little girl that came from nowhere...at that speed and muddy terrain its difficult to swerve out,so needless to say we calmed down a bit. I also accidentally popped a wheelie going over a bridge too fast only too hit anchors for a stupid goat crossing the road. In Kawambwa we got fuel and Roadkill felt like a steak,but could only manage a piece of cow...no cut,just a lump of meat,nothing wrong with that.We discovered a waterfall [Ntumbachushi] just out side town - it looked deserted,so we decided to camp there....was very nice to fall asleep to the thundering noise made by the falls.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:08:50 pm
The shelter at lake Bangweulu
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:09:39 pm
Muddy road leading to Kawambwa
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:10:37 pm
The butcher in town....very African
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:12:27 pm
Ntumbachushi falls - the spray that came off there was amazing
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:40:18 pm
Day 27 - Kawambwa to Nchelenge [100km , 90% gravel]

We woke to a friendly dude[at first] and had a nice chat with him till he pulled a book out and charged us $15 p/p for the camp! I was furious - the was no toilets,no showers,nothing and he wanted to charge us the most expensive rate we have paid thus far! Anyway,we hiked up the falls and had a refreshing bath in the river and missioned back to get going again-we stopped in town for some supplies and hit the road. Immediately out of town the road turned to a dirt track from hell - just as you get going,you hit a ditch or trench or just a big hole in the ground - I was surprised to see that my baby could take those punches! Roadkill eventually got a puncture in the front wheel[with that road it was bound to happen with one of us] which he managed to fix just as it started pouring down. We had a big crowd of youngsters watching and a group of army troops that came by warning us not to go too close to the DRC border. It is also surprising how many people use bicycle's for transport and how few of them can actually ride them. We hid from the rain for a while,but accepted it and got going in it. A while later after much frustration we got to Nchelenge[it was funny becuase it sounded like challenge which is exactly what it was getting there] to Lake Mweru -the border between DRC and Zambia. We settled for a place called Moira with a double room to try and get some clothes dry and had a few beers and chicken and chips to sooth the aches and pains. Our money ran out,but could exchange dollars on the black market...always good to travel with some dollars.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:44:07 pm
Our camp site at the falls
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:45:30 pm
Up stream where we had a bath....nature style
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 22, 2013, 04:46:14 pm
Puncture time....that is a fake smile if anyone was wondering.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:17:31 pm
Day 28 - Nchelenge to Mporokoso [ 280km , 60% mud....heavy mud]

Was difficult to get going - with the constant rain its difficult to keep a positive attitude and a sore body to go with it. Roadkill's puncture rapair looked a bit dodgy and with cash and supplies running out we needed to get to a sizable town and soon. We decided to take the tar road back to Kawambwa and from there aim for Lake Tanganyika for a well deserved day off,but it was still long to go to the lake.The tar road was just as bad,but it was nice to see all the plantations of vegetables alongside the road. From Kawambwa we took another dirt road past Lumangwe Falls[ the second highest in Africa] toward Mporokoso - the road turned into snot mud and again we were fighting to stay up once more. Its impossible to deflate your tyres for better traction because of the hidden rocks and difficult to get momentum because of the huge pools in the road. First Roadkill put his bike down and soon after it was my turn....and a bit later again!By the second off my panniers was so buckle that they would not close properly. After a few hours we got to Mporokoso...not what we were hoping for-one horse town and its got mad-cow disease.We managed to find some black market fuel,but we were short on cash and with no bank or exchange in town we could only manage 8 liter between the 2 of us. This meant we had no money left till the next town which was another +- 100km further.Just out of town it started to pour down again and the road was even worse than before!At 4pm and 35km out of town we had enough for the day-I saw a village in the bush and decided to ask them if we could pitch our tents there for the night.This was no easy task,but eventually they understood and gave us shelter and some malasha to warm our food.The chief stopped in his fancy car with army in to confront us-we were aloud to spend the night as long as we are gone by the morning and not influence the people. That night we shared our last food with the elder of the village while the rest stood staring - it was awkward,but not once did I feel threatened.Roadkill entertained the youngsters with photo's off his phone till the battery died.After supper[which was one tin of pilchards and noodles] I crashed into my tent...what a day!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:27:45 pm
Lake Mweru at Nchelenge
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:28:53 pm
Vegetable plantations alongside the road
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:29:46 pm
Roaddkills off....that mud was like snot!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:30:48 pm
My off - look at the state of that road,man it was tough!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:32:08 pm
Trucks would be stranded here for months till the rains stop and help could get to them
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:33:18 pm
Where we got black market fuel in Mporokoso...this is where you know you are in Africa
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 12:56:20 pm
Day 29 & 30 - Mporokoso to Mpulungu [ 280km , 50% mud]

I was up at 4-30 and did not close an eye. I was concerned of how vulnerable we are in the bush-completely at the mercy of the villagers.We had a crowd of people watching us breaking down camp well before the sun came up....what an awesome and humble experience that was to camp in a true African village. By 6-30 we were on the road and fighting to stay on once again...at least the muscles had a chance to recover and concentration was back again. At this stage we had no water,no food,very little petrol , no cash and even no siggies!Al we could do was too keep going and hope we make the next town.The road was so bad-we saw 2 trucks and 3 bakkies that would have to wait for the end of the rainy season before they could get help.And there are lots of people-the population almost doubled in the last 10 years - Kano[the Viking] told us of the Zambian government that employed 4000 boere [when the paw paw hit the fan in Zimbabawe] to come and educate the locals on farming and gave them 5 years to do it.....well they did it in 3-go boere!The road started to get easier,but still had technical sections every now and then.At one point[must have been frustration of not being able to get momentum] Roadkill gave gass and hit a chicken crossing the road-it looked like that chicken swallowed a bomb.100km Further we finally came to a tar road....I bent down to kiss it.We inflated the tyres again and head north to Mbala and just made it with petrol and we were lucky...atm,petrol,food,cold coke and siggies....life was good again
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 01:01:27 pm
The village where we took shelter for the night
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 01:02:31 pm
Roadkill posing with the villagers - man what an experience!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 23, 2013, 01:03:31 pm
Dried Buca Buca [fish] sold on the side of the road...very nice
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:04:08 pm
Day 29 & 30 Mporokoso to Mpulungu

Mbala is the last town before entering Tanzania - after fueling and stocking up we did the 40km tar section down into the valley to Mpulungu which is on the coast of lake Tanganyika [longest lake in the world at 630km in lenght and second deapest at 1200 meter]. A guy with a tooth sore showed us to Nkupi Lodge-very hippie with nice lawns to camp on.We got there nice and early and set up camp in the sun for the first time in a while. We set for town to get a few supplies and came back with a bottle brandy to celebrate our halfway point on our trip.The town is mainly a fishermans village with a few markets and one of the entry points of the ferry from Tanzania which only docks every 2nd week. We spent the next day doing allot of relaxing and exploring the place-the bikes got a good wash , panniers received some panel beating and the stomach's good protine. We had Brine [fish] for the first time[which was awesome] and also tried the local Nkupi [English Fish] fish on the fire.The dried Buca Buca was also nice. I enjoyed the buzz of the harbour and markets in the morning and missioned around to find the best deals on vegetables. Also got bitten by an insect on my foot that left eggs under my skin by the second day....following the advise of the locals I cut it open and removed the eggs and covered it with an antiseptic solution...and no,I was not sober when I did it.Cholera and Malaria is a big problem with a few confirmed reports in the past,but the people are friendly and the kids very educated for the most part.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:23:40 pm
Nkupi Lodge
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:24:38 pm
Our baby's being washed under Roadkill's supervision
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:26:09 pm
The forbidden island in the lake - the story goes that boy's swim to that island to become men and no women are aloud
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:27:05 pm
The harbor early in the morning....humming with people selling fish
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:28:25 pm
Small fish gets dried and used in soup-they fish these by the tonn's,not sure how much longer there will be fish for them at this rate
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 26, 2013, 04:30:31 pm
Now that was an awsome supper!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 08:25:29 am
Fishermen returning from the nights fishing
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: ZooDog on February 27, 2013, 09:06:33 am
awesome story
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:04:10 pm
Day 31 - Mpulungu

We still had no conformation that our tyre's have reached Mbya in Tanzania and with my foot still in pain and Roadkill with a stomach bug,we decided to stay for another day. Camp was cheep and we were able to charge everything properly before going into the unknown again.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:08:09 pm
Some more fish pics
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:09:38 pm
The bigger boats would load the smaller boats ontop when coming back into the bay - I would think it to be easy to get lost in such a big lake at night
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:30:34 pm
Day 32 - Mpulungu to Sumbawanga/Tanzania [ 170km , 60% mud]

We waited for a gap in the clouds to pack up camp,greeted new friends and were on our way. We did the same 40km back to Mbala and then another snot mud section of 30km in the rain to the border. The Zambian side was a joke-a gate with fencing 5 meter in either direction and then nothing;a small building with nobody in it. We fetched the customs officer from his house,but the immigrations officer was in town and has no transport. With both doing different duties,the customs guy said we had to go collect the immigrations guy in town to get a stamp to continue...this was not happening,so after some whoosa and lots of pleading he put his signature as an exit stamp in our passports. The Tanzanian side was a complete different story with finger and eye scans and $50 for visa and $25 for road tax,but it was clear that very few people use this post. And clear they do not use that tax money for the roads...pretty much the same as in Zambia,but here the Chinese were busy making a mess of things again. Roadkill swerved out for a chicken[maybe he felt guilty of the previous one he killed] and nearly had a serious accident.With only a sore hand and some bent luggage racks we did the 98km of service road till Sumbawanga. Very busy town and a culture change since Muslim is the main religion. I discovered an ant nest in my freaken helmet that has been cruising with since Mpulungu....I am talking thousands of ants,so we found a lodge for the night and took to town to try the local quizine-Roadkill had goat and chips while I tried their Buca Buca-very nice. Roadkill had some problems adjusting to the Muslim toilets back at the lodge,but laughed it off over a beer across the road.That night it rained really hard and I was glad we were not camping....the next day we would head further north.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:35:53 pm
Tanzanian side of the border at Mbala
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:37:37 pm
Roadkills attempt to safe a chicken nearly cost his own...look,he is standing in the ditch that he would have crashed into if he did not deliberately put the bike down
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 01:39:04 pm
Sumbawanga is a busy town
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 03:38:45 pm
Day 33 - Sumbawanga to Tunduma [ 240km , 80% gravel]

Again we waited for the rain to calm down before heading off to the petrol station - here in Tanzania they only have diesel and leaded petrol[SUPER] at 2300 Ts p/l which is a great problem for our bikes,so instead of doing a loop around Lake Rukwa like we originally planned,we decided to head strait for Mbeya to collect our 'golden' tyre's.So with tanks filled up we left town on a road that shows as tar on the map,but should have known better...again the Chinese is making a mess of things and we were forced to use the service road which diverse from mud to sharp stones,but it was slow going - it takes about 1 hour to do 20km! Somewhere between stops I misplaced my neckbrace and lost the damn thing....Africa took it. There were less animals on the road than in Zambia,but more crazy drivers with trucks having NO problem pushing you off the road. We got to Tunduma at 5 pm and did not anticipate the chaos - its on the border and part of the 'great north' road. Trucks and people everywhere and everyone were looking for a quick buck. I left Roadkill in a stampede of people while I was trying to get a place to stay - luckily we got an escort to Silver Stone Annex Inn which was in the industrial area[well it looked like it,but I suppose the whole of Tunduma was industrial]. We had a few Safari beers and beef with chips for supper,but struggled to sleep with all the commotion going on through the night....man I missed the bush!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 03:51:47 pm
Our baby's tucked away for the night
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 27, 2013, 04:17:01 pm
Day 34 - Tunduma to Karonga/Malawi [ 290km , 90% tar]

Having slept very little due to people with no respect we packed the bikes and were on the road by 7am.Tunduma is on a Plato and you can see into the green green valley's for miles! The road was in good condition and had a few police check points,but none that stopped us.Word of advise-BE CAREFULL ON GREAT NORTH ROAD...people drive like maniacs!Once in Mbeya we contacted the person who had our tyre's for directions and took the opportunity of another busy town to see if we cannot get new front tyre's since they now started to look worn.No luck-we could find 21inch for 'picky-picky's' but none broad enough.Our rears were on a farm just outside of town on the way to the Malawi border which worked out perfect.The road took us up the mountain and being part of the volcanic strip everything is lush green here and very beautiful.I noticed another crack in my luggage rack just as we were about to leave Rob's[the guy who had our tyre's] place and was able to use his factory to fix it,but this took time and we had to get to the border before it closes.Its all tar from Mbeya to the border,but what an awesome drive-nice curves through stunning scenery with the lake[Lake Malawi] in the distance.It was so nice that we did not see the traffic police-got our first speeding fine...95 in a 60 zone will cost you 30 000 Ts and man do they have attitude!We had no money and told him to come to the border[which was 1km further] so we can arrange some at the exchange....well we left him there and rushed through the post...it was going into his pocket anyway.The border itself took long and we were forced to do the last 40km in the dark which is never a good idea-too many people and animals caused a few close calls.8pm that night we got to Karongo-it was a long,hot, tough day with lots of stress and had to settle for pilchards and noodles for supper.It was Friday night and again we would struggle to sleep with all the parties happening around us,but at least we were finally in Malawi-Good times were waiting once again!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:22:12 pm
We stopped at this fruit market in Mbeya for a nice pineapple
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:24:49 pm
Us with Rob at his factory - he received our tyre's and helped me to weld my luggage racks
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:25:45 pm
Malawi border control coming from Tanzania
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:47:19 pm
Day 35 - Karonga to Chitimba [ 110km , 100% tar]

It felt like we were always in a rush,but Malawi has got a very relaxed attitude that rubs off on you...quickly. We took our time in the morning and only hit the road after 12. The people are extremely friendly here and just want to help. We stopped in town to stock up on cash [they even have a Standard bank here], cooled off with a coke and then headed south[which in the back of our minds it felt like the trip is nearing its end]. It was so beautiful to ride along the lake with its stunning bay's and blue water and mountain peaks with green plantation to your right. We rode though more fishing towns which has the same 'rape' attitude when it comes to fishing by the looks of it. We reached Chitimba in no time and decided on Chitimba Lodge for the night...very fancy place,but owned by an arrogant Hollander-we pitched our tents and explored the beach a bit and ended up having a party at the place next door which had a much better vibe. We started meeting allot of travelers again-poeple who took the year off and just backpack through Africa....so jealous yet inspiring.The camp next door was owned by an SA'ner called Willie who talked allot of rubbish and played old old south african music...maybe that's why we had such a good time. We also tested the local green ciggies on the beach with our new friends which really got the apatite going...that night we ate our pre arranged chicken with the boring crowed back at our camp and set for bed just before the storm....it rained so hard [with lightning that I have never experienced] that we would find Roadkills bike on its side the next day.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:50:10 pm
We were greeted by this guy in the morning trying to sell some of his catch of the previous night
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:51:34 pm
Thats Bosco-he runs the place at Karongo and helped us to settle in when we arrived there in the dark...very friendly oke
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:55:42 pm
Chitimba Lodge...very nice,but there are better places to go stay if you do come through here. The owner is a poepol and you have to pay before they serve you anything....even beer
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:56:40 pm
That is Livingstonia up on the mountain in the distance - we would go there...
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: chickenbadger on February 28, 2013, 05:02:46 pm
Us with Rob at his factory - he received our tyre's and helped me to weld my luggage racks

Howsit Hubs640, jas this is getting me lank excited for our trip, the bikes are still stuck in Durban, bastards at the shipping companies!!!

How did those new tires fare? I have put those guys on new before the bikes head off...?
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:17:29 pm
Day 36 - Chitimba to surroundings [ 2km , single track up the mountain]

The thunder and lighting was so hectic that it felt like we would be struck.I woke up early and had a nice stroll along the lake into town to try the local cuisine alongside the road...fried goat and chips...nice. We were asked by a friend back home to go have a look at a place he invested in 5 years ago which was just across the road up into the mountain call Africa Village,so with the bad vibe at camp we decided to pack the bikes and do the 2km waiting...nice and slow. We stopped at a rasta cafe for lunch and the were guided to the single track that leads to the village-intense track especially with all the luggage on and a spare tyre. I struggled up,but once on top we had all the kids up there with us-never has a bike come through there!It is a true village built with the surrounding materials run by a guy called Micheal...what an awesome experience that was-no running water or electricity other than a small solar panel. Micheal knew we were coming and was extremely eager to show us what he has managed with the money sent by the friend back home. We had some more 'relax tobacco' and just enjoyed the view from up there-you could see as far as the mountains on the other side of the lake. That night we enjoyed the thunder and lightning storm in the distance-it was like nature gave us a show.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:22:32 pm
Rasta shop where we had lunch....and yes,that is Roadkill....he just shaved for the first time
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:24:21 pm
African Village-they have 3 bungalows and a lounge area
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:25:16 pm
All the kids wanted was to have their picture taken
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:25:52 pm
The lounge/bar area
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:27:58 pm
Us with the gang-we played hackey with the youngsters and discussed business with the adults,like how he could get more people to go up there....man,what an TRUE African experience
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 05:30:17 pm
To chickenbadger - the tyre's amazed us...we still did the whole lenght of the lake with the rear...maybe 9000km +
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: chickenbadger on February 28, 2013, 05:32:44 pm
To chickenbadger - the tyre's amazed us...we still did the whole lenght of the lake with the rear...maybe 9000km +

 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

Thanks for the info! Keep these posts coming, really enjoying the read!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:36:42 pm
Day 37 - Chitimba to Livingstonia [ 18km , gravel mountain pass]

Lake Malawi is known as 'lake of stars' ,because at night you can see all the fisherman going out with their parafine lamps on the dugout canoe's giving the star impression...spectacular. Its also known as the calender lake...its got 12 main rivers flowing into it;is 365km long and 520 meter wide at its narrowest part-just some interesting facts. In the morning I was taught how to play Bao[a local board game] and  played some hackey with the boy's in the rain while Micheal got our showers ready-this entailed carrying water 2km and filling up the shower bucket-the toilet is a 'longdrop',but watch out for spiders under the seat.Breakfast was in the form of a tomato dish with small fish in it-very salty.Micheals father who owns the land came down to greet us and wish us good luck with the rest of our trip. After it all we said our good bye's and promised to visit again.What an experience with humble friendly people. We went back down the hill and then up the pass towards Livingstonia - very steep with sharp bends,but lots of fun. The view from up there was also amazing!We decided to stay over at Mushroom Farm-an eco system backpackers right on the cliff and was glad to see our french firends form Chitimba has made it there already. The camp is run by 2 very friendly Hollanders[Hannes and Claudia] and things are not as cheep,but I suppose you pay for the view. We would stay here since its Christmas in the morning and would be able to enjoy it with the friend we have made since Karonga...it was like having a family of travelers together. That night we indulged in too much brandy and had allot of laughs...what a special place Mushroom Farm turned out to be....
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:51:48 pm
Our breakfast - he spend all night fishing for that
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:53:18 pm
The view from top of the pass
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:54:34 pm
Turnoff to Mushroom Farm
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:55:13 pm
Our camp spot right on the cliff
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:56:26 pm
The chill out area...you can lay in those hammocks and solve the worlds problems while enjoying that view
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 01, 2013, 01:57:05 pm
The bar with the friendly hosts
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Agriman on March 01, 2013, 08:03:30 pm
Great RR...Keep it coming...
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Mr Zog on March 01, 2013, 08:11:29 pm
Epic RR, keep it coming  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:06:56 pm
Day 38 - Christmas at Mushroom Farm

That morning we woke with a huge hang over-they have Klipdrift brandy at Mushroom farm and we must have finished the bottle. I left Roadkill at the camp and decided to take a walk with the Frenchies to Livingstonia which was 16km further up the mountain. We had a lovely lunch of chicken and soup at Stone House and stopped at a beautiful waterfall on the way back. That night the staff arranged a 3 course meal for us which was really nice.....very relaxed day
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:12:44 pm
School ontop of the mountain
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:13:34 pm
Stone House- I believe Livingstone stayed here for a while
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:14:18 pm
Awesome waterfall on the way back down
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:36:04 pm
Day 39 - Mushroom Farm to Nkata bay [180km , 40% gravel]

After all our good bye's we only left there late in the morning-we decided on the gravel route that goes through Livingstone and down the other side of the mountain and comes out at Rumpi. Awesome road with lots of sharp turns and hectic descents...it was like I had to learn to ride all over again.Once down from the mountain we crossed a few wooden bridges in desperate need of some TLC...but hey,TIA[this is Africa]. Once on the tar road we inflated the tyre's properly and had a quick refreshing splash in the river...Mushroom farm was at 1100 meter above see level,so you don't feel the heat,but back down it felt like we were in an oven again. Just before Mzuzu we got caught speeding for the second time and could not talk our way out of it. These traffic cops were too friendly for my liking that it pissed me off even more....65 in a 50 zone[who drive's 50?] will cost you 5000 MK spot fine. We stopped in Mzuzu for petrol and money [petrol there are bad and my poor Trekka sounded like a tracktor] and continued on the tar road towards Nkata bay which took us through some more hills and lots of greenery. We also passed through the first roadblocks where they actually want to see your documents...also irritating. At the bay we went to Majorca Village...what a beautiful place! It looks like it could be in Greece or somewhere in the Mediterranean.The water is so clear that you could probably see 20 meter and the most colourfull fish between the rocks right on the edge. It is also very touristic which is not entirely my vibe since everybody pretty much keep to themselves. Anyway...really beautiful
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:57:41 pm
The bridge at Rumpi where we cooled off a bit
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 04:59:34 pm
Our camp spot at Majorca Village....its all on different levels along the cliff face
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 05:00:12 pm
Some awesome views of the lake
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 05:01:10 pm
The lounge area-we spoiled ourselves to some pizza that night
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 05, 2013, 05:13:52 pm
Day 40 - Nkata bay to Senga bay [ 340km , 100 % tar]

That night at Majorca Village we experienced an intense storm - some of the roofs of the cabins caved in. Roadkills bike fell over again - this time onto the step-up of a bakkie and caused some damage to the fairing.We wanted to stay for another day,but with bad weather approaching we though it best to be on our way. We struggled to get everything back to where the bikes were parked...too many steps and man it was hot.Once on the road it was fine with beautiful scenery keeping you busy,but a tar road can only be fun for so long and soon we were bored on the long straits. It was getting dark again and we needed to hurry,but still keep a look out for happy hiding traffic cops. We arrived at Senga bay after 6pm and decided on Cool Runnings to stay-the story goes that the owner of Cool Runnings franchise in SA died and his wife then closed all in SA and opened a new one in Senga Bay. Nice campsite with lawns and right on the lake. We met a group of SA'ners that has driven their Putzey's on trailers to the lake and we touring the lake on their bikes...nice idea and nice group too. We also met 2 crazy Zambians[the only to white Zambians I know] and all had a beach party that night...good times!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Mooch on March 05, 2013, 05:15:48 pm
Sub
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Bergie on March 06, 2013, 07:12:42 am
 :happy1:
Brassies!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Minora on March 06, 2013, 03:26:49 pm
[the only to white Zambians I know]

Great Report! Thanks for sharing

There are actually quite a lot of white Zambians still living in Zambia. Up North (Copperbelt-Ndola/Kitwe) there's even a social life amongst the white community
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Orangeswifty on March 07, 2013, 03:08:55 pm
Great RR!
I am really enjoying the trip!
 'Tick' - to do list! :biggrin:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Orangeswifty on March 08, 2013, 09:33:23 am
Waiting...........waiting.................

Tap Tap tap tap.............................................. :patch:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:02:44 pm
We met Bergie [wild dog] at Majorca Village and saw him pull in at Cool Runnings - he was also on a trip from SA,but solo. In total we were 11 bikers camping there.Nice lawn to camp on,but the ants WILL find you
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:03:33 pm
The view of the lake
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:04:22 pm
The bar-obviously lots of SA influence
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:11:23 pm
Day 41 - around Senga Bay [60 km , 90% tar]

Woke up early with a huge babelas from the beach party of the previous night - we had lots of plans for our off day,but the heat was just too hectic.I explored the fishing village for a bit and it the afternoon we went to Red Zebra which is just a bit out of town. They farm with Cilchard's [Malawi's] and export them internationally...well not really farm,they rape the lake and send them off - an average of 6000 a month! Surely that cannot be sustainable for the lake. That evening we had Chambo [local fish] and played some poker.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:17:13 pm
For a small amount a guide will gladly show you around the farm and explain how they sort the fish and check them before sending off.
They first get thrown into these big pools too adjust being taken from the lake
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:18:25 pm
They then get sorted into species into these smaller pools
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:20:58 pm
And finally sexes are separated into these fish tanks. This is quite an operation they have here - as far as I know its the largest in Malawi,just such a shame they don't bother with actually reproducing with these fish,I mean,they have the infrastructure
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:23:00 pm
This little guy does not know it,but tomorrow his on a flight to JHB along with another couple of hundred of his chommies to go and bob in a tank in some fish shop....gone is its freedom
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:40:27 pm
Day 42 - Senga Bay to Cape Mclear [ 180km , 30% gravel]

Our plan was to meet up with some friends in Monkey Bay for new years,but since they were not coming through anymore we decided to join these new friends at Cape Mclear-they have been there and said it was a joll.So in the morning there was a lot of comotion in camp with everybody packing bikes - we would cruise along with the Putzey gang and have the Zambian's follow us in their Cruiser as a 'support' vehicle. But first it took us 2 hours in Salima to get some cash before we could hit the road. It was mainly tar going with a 20km dirt short cut which we convinced the gang to do with us.Was weird being dressed for the Dakar and these guy's are riding in shorts with tekkies on. After the dirt section it was another 60km of tar through the mountains until you get to the bay which is Cape Mclear-there are no vegetation around the lake and lodge after lodge stretching as far as you can see-obviously a hot spot for tourists. We arrived long before the gang at Fat Monkeys,set up camp and went to chill in the bar.Craig [the one Zambian] felt like some adventure and exchanged rides with one of the girls....not sure what happened,but he came off and got hurt pretty bad...that is why I will not ride without gear. At least I got a chance to test my extensive medical kit and soon had him patched up and ready to go again. We had supper and took a stroll down the beach to where the music came from - Gecko...wild place with lots of people. After more tequila's it was time to search for my tent and get ready for the next day's hang over.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:44:05 pm
We stopped to give some spoons to the local kids...was strange to ride with so many people after being in a group of 2 for over a month.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 09, 2013, 01:45:58 pm
This photo does not really do his wound justice,but that foot needed stitches and his shoulder and back was also grazed....couple of painkillers and another tequila and Craig was his old crazy self again.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Kaboef on March 09, 2013, 02:21:32 pm
Great report!!

Thanks very much!!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:10:17 am
Day 43/44/45 - Cape Mclear surroundings. [0km , 100% babelas]

Up until now we were very good and did not really indulge,but man these hangovers were getting hectic! We started the day with an oily breakfast ,arranged 2 catfish to braai that night and took some snorkel gear to the point - Cape Mclear must be the best place to go diving in Lake Malawi. The water is like a bath tub and the visibility probably 30 meter + with all the fish giving you the impression that you are swimming in a tank[thats what it felt like to me,because I used to have a Malawi fishtank]. The rest of the day we spent swimming and drinking some more making friends with all the holiday comers.Us and the Zambians prepared an awesome fish braai that night for the group of 12 who really enjoyed it. The next day we were fresh for a change-we booked a boat scuba dive for 2pm and spent the morning finally changing the rear tyres [those Michellin Deserts have done 9000km+ and still has some tread on,but carrying and extra tyre became a las] and giving the bikes a service. The dive cost $40 and was worth every cent-lots of fish[even a Dolfinfish] and Roadkill even found a crocodile tooth-proof that they are around.After the dive we got ready for the New Years Party at Gecko which turned out to be epic-loads of people,pumping tunes,fires on the beach and a fireworks display over the lake.The next day's hangover was no surprise-we were meant to leave on 1st Jan,but due to an exploding headache and Roadkills b-day being the next day,we decided to just relax [like we have not been doing much of that] for the day and rest. It is still hot everyday and so nice to be able to just dive into the lake when you feel like it. We would take it easy and be fresh the next day-it was time to get onto the bikes again and continue this trip.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:18:21 am
The point where we went snorkeling
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:20:25 am
Changing tyre's with an audience
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:21:39 am
The old Michellin Desert and the new Mitas E07 - check that Michellin still had some tread left
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:23:15 am
Us with the Zambians at the dive shop-man that dive was epic! The boat ride was about 10 min to the island and the spot where we went was called Aquarium
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:26:59 am
This is what I found back at our camp coming back from the new years party....free entertainment...well it did cost a few tequila's,but was forth it.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:28:25 am
Thought I'll just through this nice pic of the lake in there to calm the viewers after the previous pic.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:43:56 am
Day 46 - Cape Mclear to Chikwawa [310km , 90% tar]

We were up early and had the bikes ready to go after a coffee and some breakfast. We had a last 'loop in en maak brand' mission with the Zambians celebrating Roadkill's birthday,said our good buys and were off at about 10am. We headed SE till Mangochi along the lake and then S through Zomba. The scenery turned into mountains again with lush green forests. We stopped in Blantyre [which is a huge city] at the Shoprite to stock up on food [got some nice steaks for the birthday boy] and continued further south.We wanted to get as close to the Mozambican border as possible. Track for Africa showed a lodge called Fishermans Lodge and we were told of big Tigers south of the Shire River,but the lodge ended up being high on the mountain [false advertising] and too expensive for our now already broken budget. So we continued down the steep mountain pass till Chikwawa and found a cheep local lodge with a fan. It is still damn hot and the occasional showers do not really cool you down. We braaied some steak that night and left the bikes packed so we can make the border and more the next day.After taking it so easy in Malawi we suddenly realised we were running out of time [had to be back at work in 13 day's] and had to give Tiger fishing in the Shire River a skip.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 09:49:04 am
Packing up camp at Fat Monkeys - man that was an unforgettable new year experience
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:15:03 am
Day 47 - Chikwawa to Chimuara/Mozambique [ 290km , 80% gravel]

That night it was very hot-the fan did not help and I had a few showers during the night just to cool off.At 10am we were ready to hit the road,but sweating like a pig. 50km further we came to a dirt road that needed some serious attention-after 80km of that we got to Bangula which was connected to Nsanje with a tar road. From there it was a challenging dirt track to Vila Nova-the Mozambican border post. We had to wait for the Immigrations officer who turned up on a bicycle taxi-my stomach was giving me trouble and had to use their long drop facilities.4km further you get to the Mozambican side of the border-its like a whole new world. Besides only Portuguese being spoken[unbelievable what can change in 4km] it looks like the country is still at war-army everywhere and all the buildings look like they were target practise.We got through there without having to pay and were also able to exchange MK for Metica's on the black market-its alway's good to know what the updated current exchange is,because these guy's will not hesitate to take advantage of you.The road further became even more challenging with sections of deep lose sand and deep trenches.We bumped into 2 arrogant Hollanders on Suzuki's heading north-they explained a short cut over a train bridge we could take that would save us 150km. So at Mutarara we found this bridge,but the obstacle was about 20 steps to get ontop-locals offered to help at a ridiculous price,so we decided to test our KTM's and skill...no problem and we left the locals speechless and broke.The bridge is about 3 km long and on the other side we stopped to cool off first-both the rider and bike was overheating.Locals came with buckets of water and gave us a public shower...they saved us. After that it was a pleasant dirt road to Caia to where the tar started again.It is unbelievable the amount of Boababs in the fields here.At Caia we drew money and continued over a fancy bridge to Cua-Cua where we would spend the night.Very fancy place and also very expensive-the campsite was away from the rest of the lodge and again we were attacked by the mass of bugs. We spoiled ourselves to some chicken and chips in the restaurant and called it a night-what a tough day it was.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:23:03 am
The Vila Nova border post-I was not aloud to take a picture of the Mozambican side
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:24:31 am
Even the statues don't like the people in Mozambique - that country looked like it was in serious need of help.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:26:42 am
The steps up to the bridge-we did it with all the luggage still on and surprised the locals[and ourselves] who thought it was pay day...go KTM!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:27:55 am
The locals gathered with buckets of water to cool the riders off....man it was hot!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:29:20 am
The camp site at Cua Cua...we were attacked by bugs that night
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 10:30:20 am
The bar at the restaurant - this place is very expensive and only cater for tourists with money.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Karoo Rider on March 10, 2013, 11:05:59 am
Great report, on the bucket list for sure!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 12:44:36 pm
Day 48 - Chimuara to Rio Save [ 604km , 100% tar]

This was our last chance of fishing for the illusive Tiger fish - from here we would head to the coast. But with time running out and no certainty of where we could go and not get eaten by crocodiles we through the white cloth in and gave up-we would have to come back one day and try again.We still wanted to squeeze in a scuba dive and still had to get back to CT in 11 day's time. So we packed the bikes,filled the waterbottles and headed back over the bridge to get to the EN1 which leads to Inchope. The bikes were still handling great and could easily cruise at 110km/h without pushing them,but the front wheel was starting to look dodgy with absolutely no tread left in some spots-our next chance for tyres would only be Maputo. The tar road to Inchope takes you through some thick forests with villages hidden in them. we made good time and would only stop every 150km for a siggy.From Inchope it was 270km of more tar road that takes you over quite a few dried out rivers-its amazing how the people use what little water there is left to do all their business in. Again our homework turned out to be questionable-it turned out there is no lodge or campsite in Rio Save. We settled for a grass hut at a local bar and were treated like kings-chicken and chips with a Castle Lite to wash it all down and nice to be out from the rain.It was a long day's ride and in bed early.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 12:47:17 pm
The grass huts at the local bar in Rio Save
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 12:48:54 pm
The were fans inside,but no electricity. Also it was very difficult communicating with people understanding nothing other than Portuguese
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 01:06:25 pm
Day 49 - Rio Save to Inhambane [ 420km , 80% tar]

That night must have been the worst storm so far and it was still raining when we woke. We got dressed,covered our boots with plastic and got going in the rain. 70km further we stopped for petrol and there my baby did not want to leave-she would idle,but once you accelerate,then she dies again. So we got out the rain to a nearby grass cover and started eliminating the obvious problems. After maybe 2 hours of struggling with the seat,tank and covers off we were still unable to figure out the problem. Roadkill then phoned KTM in CT and described the problem to Kevin[Chief machanic] who immediately said she had water in the petrol and we needed to drain the carburetor...wow,all that just by and explanation over the phone! It worked although I had to do it twice-so it was on with all the covers and back on the road. That whole story cost some time and only managed Maxixi after 5pm and just missed the pharmacy for an ear infection Roadkill had to sort out. From there it was a short tar section which turned into some soft but fun sand and then REALLY soft sand. It seamed like we would always hit the difficult part at the end of the day when your arms are tired and concentration deplenished. We were heading for Gunjata bay where a friend of our were dive instructor and only arrived there well after dark and after a few off's that had me shouting in my helmet out of frustration. We were guided along the last 3km since the gps could not show us the way and finally we got to our destination-right on the beach in the nature reserve.We had a whole backpackers to ourselves and only paid R130 p/d. Packed off,had a shower and strolled the beach for some supper which came in the shape of and awesome pizza. Again a hard day and the next we would took off to relax.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on March 10, 2013, 01:16:23 pm
Roadside repair....thanks Roadkill and Kevin-you guy's saved me.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Pathfinder on March 10, 2013, 03:24:38 pm
.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Kaboef on March 11, 2013, 10:59:11 am
I love how you remember the details about the meals you had.   :biggrin: :biggrin:

Great writing and a fun report to read!

Go!!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Probie on March 18, 2013, 04:45:54 pm
Sub, really enjoying this RR...........we are waiting  :patch:  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: aka.Goliath on April 17, 2013, 01:17:47 am
What ever happened to the rest of this??
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Spastic Spy on April 17, 2013, 07:11:25 pm
Yes, WTF? Was enjoying that..... 
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: badballie on April 17, 2013, 08:04:04 pm
 :thumleft: Excellent RR
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 03:37:25 pm
Reality is a bitch....why can you not just keep on traveling! Sorry everyone - I was unable to continue due to work circumstances, but now determind to finish this report,so here goes
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 03:59:25 pm
Day 50 and 51 , Guinjata Bay [ 0 km,but much needed chilling]

The bay is beautiful and very relaxing - I woke early and had a nice stroll along the beach. We just missed the peak season and had everything to ourselves. On our to-do list was scuba diving and possibly some offshore fishing and then some more relaxing. A fishing trip would cost over R5000 which was WAY over our budget and Roadkill was suffering from an ear infection and myself from a mild cold,so that ruled diving out too which was a real pity since the have a Manta Reef there which was said to be a cleaning station for Manta's. So we hooked up with our friend Charl and joined them to a braai on the beach. I managed to get some bait from the locals and tried to fish in the surf,but the braai had taken its toll and all I could catch was my own damn bait...it was a waste of 250MK for bait and 450MK for a fishing licence. We scored a Bonito from one of the charters that came back and took the fire back to the main house for another braai...good times with good people. The next day started way too late to make it to Maputo before sunset,so we decided on some other chores - our front tires were becoming an issue now!Roadkill managed to arrange 2 front tires from Mark at KTM in Nelspruit to be taken to Malalane the next day at no charge,but this meant we had a hard day riding waiting,so we relaxed some more.It is insane how hot it was!Just before the rainy season when the earth needs to be cooled down....killer
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:14:38 pm
Our pozzy at Guinjata Bay
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:15:39 pm
The view from the porch...how awesome is that?!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:17:34 pm
Us with our friend Charl - he was a dive master there...what an awefull job   :pot:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:19:51 pm
I tried to capture the sandy road leading to the reserve which saw me come off twice getting there. It must also be said that it was dark and at the end of a hard day and I was screaming in my helmet out of frustration
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:21:49 pm
The guy's who sponsored the Bonito
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:23:23 pm
I tried catching my own Bonito,but the brandy was flowing stronger than the waves and all I could catch was my own bait!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 04:48:59 pm
Day 52 - Guinjata Bay to Malalane / RSA [640km , 90% tar]

This was our longest leg so far and a killer! We were packed and on the road by 7am - the first 20km was soft sand,but with fresh arms it was a breeze. After that it was tar all the way...boring. There are palm tree's everywhere-braught here by the Portuguese and used for everything. A local named 12 different uses for a palmtree,but I will not bore you with them.The houses are neat and the SA influence becomes more visible the further south you travel - roads become better and signs more visible. I had to do an emergency stop for my still upset stomach and soothed it with a Cannabis energy drink. Neering Maputo we followed the gps to only go through the out skirts and not through the main city....damn it was busy with crazy drivers. We stopped at a petrol station and rushed away there due to a gas cylinder that exploded 50 meters from us-hugh bang! Just before the border we were caught speeding again-80km/h in a 60 zone will cost you 2000MK,but we only had 1000 per person,so they quickly changed the 'invoice' and took that....corrupt with a smile.At Komatipoort we stood in a long que in the heat and enjoyed the oh-so-missed attitude of our lovely government officials-at this stage we still wore out body armor,but could not handle a jacket in the heat.Once through it is clear that we are back in SA-roads are beautiful and roadsigns that work.It was a race against time to get to the shop in Malalane before 5pm to pick up our tires,but we made it.We settled for a Wimpy burger and then found a place to stay for the night. What a day and my biggest regret being chasing through Mozambique and not even enjoying any prawns. We were behind schedule and had to be in CT in 6 days
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 05:48:36 pm
Day 53 - Malalane to Sodwana /through Swaziland [500km , 80% tar]

Chill In was a nice place [with air-con] and resulted in an awesome rest. Again up early and had lots to do -with time running out and bosses already wanting to know when we will be back,but we still had lots we wanted to do.So we made use of the nice drive way to change our front tyres...Trekka now had a Mitas E07 on the rear and a Pirelli Ralley Cross 2T on the front which KTM charged us R530 for and free delivery...nice.From there we passed by Quick Fit to have Roadkill's luggage rack welded and off we went. 40km Further we got to Jeppes Reef border post to get into Swaziland - friendly people and only cost R50. It was strange to see that 10km down the road we were in 'Africa' again with animals walking everywhere and people riding without helmets on. The first stretch was lush green-we missed our turn off and took a detour over a mountain pass-it was gravel,so no complaints. We had lots of fun-I musjudged a turn which nearly sent my taking even a shorter rout down and Roadkill used a cow to stop him from skidding into a ditch.Back on the tar we gave it gas again since Sodwana was still some km's away. Further south the mountains are replaced with open plains and hot hot heat.I am talking heat that burns your face while you ride!We stopped at Big Bend for a much needed coke and a break from the oven. Just before the southern border you get Royal Jozini Big 6 which is a hugh reserve where I saw some game from the road. At Lavumisa Border post it was a different story again-arrogant idiots.I phoned ahead to arrange accommodation in Sodwana and a dive for the next day. We only got there after dark at Occi's dive shop who had nice cabins for cheep and chilled out people. We strolled the town for some chow and met very interesting [some hot] hippies and cooled off with a few beers.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 05:52:08 pm
Tyre change at Chill In in Malalane
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 05:53:51 pm
Old and the new - that Michellin Desert did nearly 11 000km !
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 05:54:34 pm
Beautiful mountains in Swaziland
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 05:55:24 pm
Having missed our turn off we came over the mountain on this road....good fun
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:17:49 pm
Day 54 - Sodwana to Cato Ridge [ 400km , 100% tar]

I was a bit nervous about the dive,because I was not sure what to expect.We got picked up at 6-30 and taken down to the reserve and onto the beach. The place was humming with dive schools and personel-it is obvious what makes Sodwana so popular. We were briefed and off to the rubber duck we went -the surf was INTENSE [all launches are from the beach] and the wind blowing 20 knots. Another duck almost flipped,but we were safe with the Amoray crowd.15 minutes ride and we were on our spot-flippers on and down we went...THE BEST DIVING EXPERIENCE EVER!Its like little mermaid came alive-so much see live you don't know where to look.Moray eals,sting ray's,snappers,kingfish,puffer fish,corral fish and even a turtle that aloud us to swim right up and touch it.We went 18 meter deep and the visibility was amazing! We swam through hugh schools of fish and under colourfull reefs-man it was special!With nearly no more pressure in my cylinder we went up for our decompression check and the back onto the boat with everybody smiling. The dive cost us R940 for both and was worth every cent.Back at the lodge Roadkill was nervous about a noise that started on his bike-knowing Alfie Cox has a KTM shop in Durban,we phoned him and asked if he could have a look.At first he gave us shit for expecting a short notice inspection,but then he arranged accommodation for us at a friends place next to his farm right next to the junior motocross track called High Stakes.So we packed the bikes and off we went,but could only do 4000RPM not to do any further damage to the bike.We arrived in Cato Ridge in pouring rain and thunder and was greeted by Jerry[owner] and his wife who knew we were coming and had a plate of hot home cooked food ready for us-I was so greatfull for those nice people. We had a few drinks at the bar and settled for an early night-the next day we would meet the legend and see what we could do to get Roadkill's bike going again
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:21:54 pm
Occi's dive shop and accommodation - nice spot and cheep
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:22:42 pm
That smile say's 'I am going diving today!'
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:23:30 pm
Sodwana beach....very busy so early in the morning
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:25:26 pm
The tracktor would push the duck into the water to get us going....man there were some hot girls driving those tracktors!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:39:30 pm
Day 55 - Cato Ridge to Mzikhulu [ 130km , 100% tar]

In the morning we took the panniers off to be at Alfie Cox'es KTM workshop by 7-30 and it was still raining.When we got there we met the legend himself-what a cool down to earth guy. He had a look and listen to the bike and said we should leave it with him and come back later-we even got to take a pic with him and his 2002 KTM! After a few hours of chilling at the club house we got the bad news-they could not find the problem and if they had to open the engine they would only be able to get parts to us by Wednesday being Saturday and we have to be at work that Monday!!!So we decided to take it easy and see if we could make it to East London where Roadkill had family and could possibly help.We collected the bike,put the panniers back on and aimed for Kokstad as our next stop,but that was not to happen. Over the mountain passes and in the rain [it was freaken FREEZING] we stopped at Mzikhulu for a coffee and there is where we stayed. Roadkill's bike would not start and it was pouring down.Being the only 2 white dudes in the town I decided to get some place to stay for the night while Roadkill try to sort it out. We were pretty kitted with spares and relay's and it looked like a power problem,so I found a place with a sort of garage where he could work and towed his bike there. Man it was frustrating to see how he struggled while [f*cking clueless me] could only stand and watch,so I set off for some beers and KFC. At long last we gave up for the night and would battle it again in the morning - rain still pouring down
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:42:09 pm
The bar at High Stakes
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 19, 2013, 06:43:20 pm
The motorcross track next to the club house...how cool is that!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 22, 2013, 08:38:44 am
Us with the legend...what a cool guy
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 04:31:56 pm
Day 56 - Mzikhulu to East London [ 480km on the back of a bakkie]

The battery had a chance to relax and slowly charge through the night - in the morning we tried to running start it and it worked,but not for long. Now we were convinced it was the battery and would just need to charge it,but there in laid another problem....we were stuck in a one horse town! Finally found a tyre place who could help,but even after charging it for hours,it did not work and all along Roadkill constantly changed relay's around and trying to work things out. In the end the shop closed and we were left on the side of the road-our only hope being to get to East London where Roadkill has family who could probably help. We tried everything - renting a bakkie from Avis to Cape Town would cost more than R10 000! Friends from Durban offered to come and get us,but that was moving in the wrong direction and we had 1 more day before work starts!Locals were looking to take advantage of the two stranded bikers,so we had to make a plan - eventually I asked if someone would like to make a buck and take us to East London with the bike's on a bakkie [500km further]. At first they wanted R7000 - after much debating we got somebody to do it for R3500...deal,we loaded the bike's onto a dodgy Mitchebishi bakkie and left Mzikhulu at 5pm - the driver was an old truck driver which set me at ease a bit and at least we got out that town....not once did I feel threatened in Africa,but in my own country I had strangers walking up to me and warning me of other thieves intentions!It was a long drive - we got to East London at 1:30am the next morning. The road through Mtata was rough and we took shifts in keeping the driver awake...just thankfull nothing bad happened and happy to be amongst familiar faces...what a day!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 04:42:24 pm
The open garage I found at Mzikhulu for Roadkill to work on his bike
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 04:44:10 pm
Outside the battery shop....all the efforts in fixing the bike was in vain,but it was not due to a lack of trying!!!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 04:45:58 pm
And off we went in a dodgy vehicle on a 9 hour drive in the rain with our baby's on the back
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 04:58:52 pm
Day 57 - East London

Here everyone is bike experts and at 10 the morning they had Roadkill's bike running,but it sounded sick. It turned the battery was completely finished,but the noise from the engine was much much worst and would never see the next town!Roadkill's bike has come to the end of its journey - now just to figure out how we could get both bike and rider back to Cape Town. I phoned the boss who was not impressed,but what could I do. In the end Roadkill managed to get a courier company to collect his bike later on the week and he would take a flight,but Trekka was still going and I would drive back the next day. I must admit - it felt kak to end the trip in such a way and I know Roadkill tried everything he could and was also disappointed,but again...what can you do. So with plans put in place we spent the rest of the day with his family and filled our stomach's with good food and beer. I got all my stuff ready for the last leg home so I could leave early in the morning....not really chuffed doing it by myself,but was determind to finish this trip.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 05:05:06 pm
Roadkill's bike would be picked up by a bike courier company later that week and taken to Cape Town for a fraction of the price it would cost us to hire a bakkie...
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 05:06:34 pm
This was the end of the line for these 2 musketeers....shot buddy...it was a life experience that I will never forget!
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 05:14:46 pm
Day 58 - East London to Mosselbaai [ 680km , 100% tar]

I woke at 4 am and got going - Roadkill's uncle ,oom Piet, showed me the way to the highway and sent me on my way. The road was boring and it was sad to be alone on it. I averaged 110km p/h and again would only stop when my ass wanted to smoke. By 2pm I was in Mosselbay and in my moer - This was the longest leg I have done this whole trip and the hectic winds going through PE has taken its toll. I found a back packers and settled for the night....well only after having one too many at the local...crazy people in Mosselbaai. There is not much to talk about on this leg - now it was about getting home,because I have run out of excuses for not being at work....not many people I know get 2 months leave and still maintain there job,so I guess I must be gratefull.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Hubs640 on April 23, 2013, 05:22:15 pm
Day 59 Mosselbay to Paarl [ 300km , 90% tar]

I left early again,but with a moerse babelas. It was raining,but by this time I had no issues with getting wet. Trekka was screaming for some dirt having done dirt for most of the trip,it was now weird chasing time on tar,so I took a little detour after Caledon,took a known dirt road and went over Franshoek pass. It felt strange being back home - I am pretty sure everyone was more keen on seeing us leave,since the return party was unheard of,BUT i did it and it felt amazing!!!Having only been riding for one year before and never owning a bike and now crossed 9 countries over 2 months and doing 13000km was quite the accomplishment...Thanks to....well...thanks to me and my buddy Roadkill! Will give you guy's all the stats in due coarse....
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Spastic Spy on April 23, 2013, 06:09:44 pm
Lekker RR.
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: BjornB on April 23, 2013, 06:32:59 pm
Great RR O0

im not jealous at all  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Bacchus2 on April 24, 2013, 08:13:40 pm
Haven't had a good read like this in a while. Thanks  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Africa Raw Paws
Post by: Would I? on April 26, 2013, 09:20:15 pm
 :thumleft: :thumleft:This was great thanks for sharing