Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Technical Section => Make / Model Specific Discussions => Husqvarna => Topic started by: sidetrack on July 04, 2013, 09:57:21 pm

Title: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on July 04, 2013, 09:57:21 pm
Some may remember my last bike the KTM525 EXC

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=50243.0 (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=50243.0)

Well it was a great ride with gobs full of power, I got it pretty close to what I wanted it to be then sold it. Funny how things work like that. The the itch started again and I looked around, I knew I wanted either a XR650R, XR600 or maybe a later KTM530XCW or EXC. Well XR's are rare and low mileage ones very difficult to find. Looking at XR600's well again finding a well looked after one is near on impossible and they are getting on in age. The 530's are overpriced, costing much more than 450's which is basiclly the same bike. Also getting it through road worthy will take alot of paperwork. Then over a beer Dirtwarp mentioned the TE610, a bike it seems everyone overlooks. My friend HHHusky used to ride one and loved it to bits.

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=6924.0 (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=6924.0)

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/pretoria%20east%20enduro/DSCF7028copy.jpg)

Yes it's got all the boxes ticked, capable, well equiped, well priced and decent power ! Problem to find one there is not many around  :-\
In the mean time I surfed the web and read Big Dogs adventures on his 610.


http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147232 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=147232)

http://www.bigdogadventures.com/TID.htm (http://www.bigdogadventures.com/TID.htm)

Besides building killer ds bikes his stories is also fun to read : "I apologize to Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman of "Long Way Round" and "Long Way Down" fame.............accomplished world travelers.
However as I see it, the only difference between us and the "Long Way Round" guys, is millions of dollars, and good looks."


(http://www.bigdogadventures.com/images/TID/020%20TID.jpg)

(http://www.bigdogadventures.com/images/TID/033%20TID.JPG)

The TE started to look like a good choice ......

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Now I have spoken to a number of guys and all seem to agree it's a very good bike (even Runner  :o). I can only guess that because of Husky dealerships being few and far between and the brands main stream obscurity that no one is really keen on them. Well looking over the bike I can't help but feel that this is the kind of dual sport bike the Japanese brands should have evolved into. I give Husqvarna props for that :salut:

Good suspension, light, good power and well specced equipment. The Italian styling is not too shabby either. Wheeled it into the garage and took some dodgy night time pics.


(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0412.jpg)

For the first time ever buying a second hand bike I actually received an owners manual and the original toolkit ..... awesome !

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0409.jpg)

The bike had original Metzeler Karoo's on, I got new Maxxis tyres with the bike

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0413.jpg)

Mileage

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0424.jpg)

Soon I was busy getting to know the bike .....

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First thing to go was the pillion pegs, no use for that on this bike

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0414.jpg)

Tadaa

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0417.jpg)

Most of the bolts had copper grease on them, the previous owner really looked after this bike

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0416.jpg)

Also removed the original rubber covers for the foot pegs, the stock pegs looks a bit narrow. Hmmm wonder what's avaliable ? Spot the Cagiva Elephant

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0423.jpg)

The bike had one missing bolt on the exhaust shield so I dived into my stainless collection  :biggrin:

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0421.jpg)

The exhaust shield covers most of the pipe

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0422.jpg)

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My only gripe so far .... the airbox. The bolt setup is a poor design, yes many use the bolts set in the plastic for instance on side panels but on a part like the airbox lid that requires alot of taking apart they should have gone for dzus fastners. The seat has one so why not the airbox. And yes turns out mine is stripped so I can't get the airbox lid off. I know the low air intake can also give problems at deeper water crossings.

Some fixes avaliable so I will look into that

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I was thinking :

- Hyde bash / skid plate
- Fatbar
- Cycra hand guards
- Maybe a better headlight from Baja Designs
- Aftermarket footpegs
- IMS tank if needed

Still not sure if I want to mount the rack that came with the bike, I like the sleek look and will mostly likely use a Giant Loop Cayote bag.

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Let me first say I found a minter of a bike, it's been really well cared for

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0430.jpg)

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0433.jpg)

It feels wrong taking it to the dirt

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So after riding it for a while I'm starting to know the Husky. Power initially dissapointing, it pulls real well as the revs rise but then drops off. I'm sure my bored DRZ 400 would have run next to if not beat the 610. The 525 would have destroyed it. BUT it is still stock standard and to be honest the TE is a DS first and foremost while the 525 is a race bike. 5 000 km service intervals vs hours. Not really fair to compare then. After riding a XR650R as well the XR has loads more torque than the TE but feels more old school and has 80 cc more.

I may add a larger rear sprocket, 6th is good but there is not enough power at present. It feels more like an overdrive gear. Suspension is good. Handling very good, the bike feels very light and nimble. I also like the seating position, in a way reminding me of a DRZ. Good quality wheels, excellant instrument cluster. Not only is there a fual warning light but also nice touches like a rev counter and shift light ! Awesome package in such a compact unit.

Styiling beautifull like all things Italian, it won't age quickly. Chain slider is gone at 14 000km and needs replacing. Bit quick I think. The rear disc has lots of play on it, I know it's floating but it feels excessive. Controls laid out well, the rear indicators are toast.. They have pieces rattling around inside. I know Blazes mentioned aftermarket units at Midas. Next I need to check the mounting bolts.

So far I really like the bike  :thumleft:

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After reading some of the advice from fellow 610 owners I decided to give the bike a once over :

The two top mounting bolts were loose, I'm no engineer but I'm sure it's because they use one engine mount instead of two like most bikes. One is more likely to be affected by vibrations and twisting from the motor.

My battery tray is cracked on the one side.

Removing the airbox since I have two stripped nuts on the airbox lid. I noticed the breather from the motor plugs into the airbox. It's a press fit and may allow dirt in. I added some plumbers tape on the breather pipe and grease on the airbox hole. The engine spits some oil onto the air filter which runs down and drips at the bottom. With regular air filter cleaning this should not be a problem.

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If money was no problem ....

IMS tank
Cycra Guards
Fatbar
Baja designs headlight

(http://www.bigdogadventures.com/images/Pics/03%20BigTank.jpg)

Fastway Billet pegs

(http://www.mxsouth.com/fastway/fastway-footpegs-mounts-evolution-ii-series-f5-footpegs_1.jpg)

FMF Q4 pipe

(http://www.enduroarmor.com/product_images/l/586/picture4__37826_zoom.JPG)

Unabiker rad guards

(http://www.unabiker.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/te610full.jpg)

Billet oil cap

(http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/Artwork/motoz/oil_cap_red.jpg)

Hyde skid plate

(http://rickramsey.net/TE310lg/TE310Hyde1.jpg)


(http://kestrelservicesllc.com/images/Alpinas/TE610%203a.jpg)


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Have bought the following, awaiting delivery from overseas :

Aluminium skid plate from Motosportz

http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm (http://www.motosportz.com/HVA-SS/HVA-SS-Home.htm)

(http://rickramsey.net/TE610lg/TEskid1.jpg)

Cycra Pro Bend's

(http://worldofaccessories.co.za/media/catalog/product/cache/2/thumbnail/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/c/y/cycra_pro_bend_bar_pack_yellow.jpg)

PBR sprockets, Italian sprockets for an Italian bike  :biggrin:
Decided on a 15 -46 setup as the 6th gear needed too much revs to keep in the power.



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Skid plate on it's way ;

Your item has been processed at our origin sort facility at 10:23 pm on March 12, 2012 in KENT, WA 98032.

-Dispatched to Sort Facility, March 12, 2012, 6:43 pm, MOUNT VERNON, WA 98273
-Acceptance, March 12, 2012, 3:42 pm, MOUNT VERNON, WA 98273

What how long it will take when the local post office gets hold it :/

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Got it today had to pay R132-00. Delivery took a week from the US so I'm happy and can highly recommend Motosportz. Well I fitted the aluminium skid plate and it's proper, test ride revealed a vibration at higher revs. Can also be the new chain or more likely the skid plate. I will add some rubber between the frame and skid plate and see. Also got a Hyde from Runner so if all else fails I will try the plastic one.

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0555.jpg)

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j220/mordies/IMG_0554.jpg)

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Rattle turned out to be the cam chain, it needs replacing. I checked the tensioner and it's on 10 clicks  :( The bike is now close on 15 000km so I did not last long. FYI my DRZ's chain was changed at 50 000km. Looking at masterlink type cam chains as the process to change the stock one is quite a process.

http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?60551-A-HOW-TO-610-Cam-Chain-Replacement (http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?60551-A-HOW-TO-610-Cam-Chain-Replacement)

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So cam chain replaced, big thanks to Runner who lent me a flywheel puller. You will also need a waterpump gasket. It's also recommended to have spare valve cover gaskets but I was lucky and mine seems fine. The valves were also set to 0.05mm. Removing the tank I ended up breaking off one of the wires that connects to the tap that sends the reserve signal to the speedo. Kaark design, it was only a matter of time. I see most recommend fitting a proper on / reserver fuel tap. Going for a little ride tomorrow to make sure it's running ok   Still dreaming about a IMS tank, smaller mirrors and a led tail light ... oh and some Mitas C02 tyres.

The pipe is now also opened up, thanks to Blazes for the parts to do the conversion. The bike runs MUCH better. The stock unit is so restrictive it's a wonder the gas can get out the back ! The sound is pretty much the same so don't worry about it being too loud. Gave it a quick polish.


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I added the DRC mirrors from the CRF and a Dirt Bike Gear tail bag I bought some time ago.

Want to do this next to get rid of the dust : http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11542859&postcount=27 (http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11542859&postcount=27)


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Got the speedo into pieces, comes apart easily only the small tabs holding the transparent speedo unit to the backplate is very thin so you have to be carefull. Cleaned the display and it looks much better now. I sealed the surface where the plugs boot fits over with some silicone, not sure if it's good enough. The clutch cable is still a pain in the back side. Looks too long but I know the routing is incorrect.


http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=89995.msg2476815#msg2476815 (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=89995.msg2476815#msg2476815)

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What I would really like to change :

LED for the rear light, the stocker always blows a filament or does not make contact
LED indicators
New T63 tyres
Black rims for the hell of it
Different headlight
Fit the Leo Vince X3 pipe

 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok so I decided to change the oil, seems there is a shortage of Actevo so I got some Putoline. The magnetic drain plug was covered with "grease paste" type of metal you often find there. So then decided to remove the screen on the shift lever side  bearing in mind this has problaly never been checked on this bike. There were tiny bits of metal but nothing serious. I cleaned the screen and decided to check the cavity before reinstalling the screen. To my surprise I found a couple or fairly large metal bits lying inside the cavity itself. I fished them out and took a pic, what do you guys reckon ? The biggest one almost looks like part of a washer (clutch cups ?). All the pieces are definetly steel as they all stuck to my screwdrivers magnetic tip  :-\
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: blazes on July 04, 2013, 10:07:09 pm
Yep --- looks like the clutch cup spring retainer washers ---
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 04, 2013, 10:10:14 pm
Thanks, any idea of costs involved ?

Looks like the route I'll be taking
http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=100302.0
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 04, 2013, 10:34:36 pm
I did mine a while ago.

Big Dom ordered the hardend washers from some guy in the states and you can get the rivets from Primrose. Neither was very expensive I think the washers were about R600 including shipping etc from the states and the rivets were R30 bucks each or something. 

Shane at Primrose organised the machining out of the old rivets and insertion of the new washers and rivets at an engineering firm he uses. They did a reasonable job I thought. I think that cost about a grand in total including Shane's time to take the clutch out and put it back in again. I wrote a thread on it here.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 04, 2013, 11:42:10 pm
Normally the washer bits are quite thin before they break up and your pics seem to indicate that the bits are still quite thick? Their shape though does seem right. As Alan said I ordered the thicker and hardened washers from a guy who makes them in USA (he is on ADVRider under the name Indy Unlimited - his real name is Dan and the e-mail I used for PayPal was:  d2eng@comcast.net - so could try that) and  the rivets from Primrose. I pulled the basket etc and had a mate of mine with a clutch and brake business do the riveting as they have a machine. It can be done by hand if you know what you are doing with a ball pein hammer (maybe do not mention the 'hand' word to your 'black sheep' friend  >:D). There is also a brass bushing on the shaft that often is worth replacing at the same time if the bike has some mileage - could also get it from Primrose quite cheaply or mail order from Halls). I am pleased did mine before they started disintegrating and were getting quite thin - nice peace of mind.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: swart skaap on July 05, 2013, 12:39:51 am
(maybe do not mention the 'hand' word to your 'black sheep' friend  >:D). There is also a brass bushing on the shaft that often is worth replacing at the same time if the bike has some mileage - could also get it from Primrose quite cheaply or mail order from Halls). I am pleased did mine before they started disintegrating and were getting quite thin - nice peace of mind.
had a good chuckle.

Maybe send the basket to that "Shane" dude.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 05, 2013, 07:31:20 am
I found the previous thread - http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=100302.0
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 05, 2013, 08:19:50 am
Just a question looking at those pieces a bit more closely:

How thick is that main bit?

I'm worried about that very straight line because the clutch washers don't have any straight lines, the bits would all be circular.

Also my washers wore very thin, if they eventually failed the bits would be quite thin so I would not expect a thick (3-5mm) piece.

Although the most likely thing to end up in your screen like that is a piece of the clutch washer because that's the only thing we know of that eventually falls to pieces inside a healthy 610 engine.

BTW I emailed the guy in the states who makes those washers, when I got mine to ask him what they were made of and what hardening process he used.  Here is his reply:

Quote
Hi Alan,
 
SAE4140 die steel material heated to 1200 degrees F with agitated oil quenching and then tempered at 700 degrees F to yield an approx  44RC hardness.
 
Tempering is necessary for the hammering application we have with the clutch to provide extra toughness
 
We then machine them to the finished dimensions.
 
Remember to use a vise to squeeze half the spring and cups while you slip the clutch hub over. The tap the spring to center it in the space and repeat for all 6 springs.
 
These babies will out last your bike!
 
I got 2 sets with over 50,000 km each on them and no signs of excessive wear.
 
Regards, Dan
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 05, 2013, 08:21:23 am
Well I sent Indy Unlimited a PM so will see. Will be taking the clutch out this weekend to inspect the damage  >:( Seems I'm gonna need plenty of beer. Then it's back to searching for the noisy top end valve clatter. Spannering rules !
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: swart skaap on July 05, 2013, 10:34:53 am
Do those springs serve the same purpose as a cush hub?
Sure looks like it
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 05, 2013, 11:10:00 am
Yip built in cush hub, pretty cool if only the cups were stronger from the start
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 11:15:07 am
Just a question looking at those pieces a bit more closely:

How thick is that main bit?

I'm worried about that very straight line because the clutch washers don't have any straight lines, the bits would all be circular.

Also my washers wore very thin, if they eventually failed the bits would be quite thin so I would not expect a thick (3-5mm) piece.

Although the most likely thing to end up in your screen like that is a piece of the clutch washer because that's the only thing we know of that eventually falls to pieces inside a healthy 610 engine.


Quote


Yes this is also what I noted above?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 11:19:51 am
Do those springs serve the same purpose as a cush hub?
Sure looks like it
 :thumleft:

Essentially yes but not a substitute - unfortunately the 610 does not have a cush which would be nice as well. Cush sprockets are though available in a 45.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 05, 2013, 11:30:40 am
Just a question looking at those pieces a bit more closely:

How thick is that main bit?

I'm worried about that very straight line because the clutch washers don't have any straight lines, the bits would all be circular.

Also my washers wore very thin, if they eventually failed the bits would be quite thin so I would not expect a thick (3-5mm) piece.

Although the most likely thing to end up in your screen like that is a piece of the clutch washer because that's the only thing we know of that eventually falls to pieces inside a healthy 610 engine.


Quote


Yes this is also what I noted above?
:patch:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 11:36:14 am
If the washer broke/cracked through the middle it could have a straight edge I guess  ::)  It is the thickness that Alan and I have noticed that seems an anomaly ... these washers normally wear thin and then fail and disintegrate.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: blazes on July 05, 2013, 11:39:18 am
Yip built in cush hub, pretty cool if only the cups were stronger from the start

Ry jy nou weer n Huskie J  ???


Been off the forum for a while ---M
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: blazes on July 05, 2013, 11:42:52 am
Ive been very fortunate --my One ----610Te --09 has now over 30,000km's on and only changed the cam chain a short while ago ---- Looked at the washers and all is good on them  ;D  Maybe just me --- I don't use the clutch hard --- But will get a set spare  this month --just in case ----
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: swart skaap on July 05, 2013, 11:46:49 am
Blazes, he went and bought his previous 610 back.
Serves as testament to a great bike, seeing as he had such a variety of bikes before.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 05, 2013, 12:35:38 pm
Yip built in cush hub, pretty cool if only the cups were stronger from the start

Ry jy nou weer n Huskie J  ???


Been off the forum for a while ---M

Yes, can't wait to go for a proper ride  :ricky: But have to sort these issues first.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 05, 2013, 12:36:16 pm
Ive been very fortunate --my One ----610Te --09 has now over 30,000km's on and only changed the cam chain a short while ago ---- Looked at the washers and all is good on them  ;D  Maybe just me --- I don't use the clutch hard --- But will get a set spare  this month --just in case ----
I think the 2006 is the one to avoid  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 02:34:01 pm
Ive been very fortunate --my One ----610Te --09 has now over 30,000km's on and only changed the cam chain a short while ago ---- Looked at the washers and all is good on them  ;D  Maybe just me --- I don't use the clutch hard --- But will get a set spare  this month --just in case ----

You should then order with sidetrack from Dan in USA - about $80 for two sets plus postage in small standard box.  :thumleft:

Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 08:21:51 pm
All you need to know re them washers:

Looked again at some of the pics in this thread and does appear the washers can fail when still relatively thick and can wear in quite a straight line where they may crack. Just buy the washers from Dan. Drill out the old rivets with a drill press rather than grind them off.


http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/help-debris-found-in-my-engine-610-630-clutch-issues.16604/
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: buzzlightyear on July 05, 2013, 08:31:18 pm
Ive been very fortunate --my One ----610Te --09 has now over 30,000km's on and only changed the cam chain a short while ago ---- Looked at the washers and all is good on them  ;D  Maybe just me --- I don't use the clutch hard --- But will get a set spare  this month --just in case ----

Isn't that a bit soon for a cam chain to be replaced???
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 08:36:20 pm
Ive been very fortunate --my One ----610Te --09 has now over 30,000km's on and only changed the cam chain a short while ago ---- Looked at the washers and all is good on them  ;D  Maybe just me --- I don't use the clutch hard --- But will get a set spare  this month --just in case ----

Isn't that a bit soon for a cam chain to be replaced???

Not on these scoots - about right.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: buzzlightyear on July 05, 2013, 09:05:26 pm
Wow! How much does one set you back?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 05, 2013, 10:17:59 pm
Wow! How much does one set you back?
If you do it yourself you will pay around R1000 which will include the chain and gaskets. Some also recommend to change the chain guides. On mine the chain started eating away at the reed valve. I checked my tensioner again tonight and it's only on 4 out.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 05, 2013, 10:31:21 pm
Wow! How much does one set you back?
If you do it yourself you will pay around R1000 which will include the chain and gaskets. Some also recommend to change the chain guides. On mine the chain started eating away at the reed valve. I checked my tensioner again tonight and it's only on 4 out.

Did you do it yourself? Parts through Primrose?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 06, 2013, 08:36:22 am
Anyone got the link to the "how to check your cam chain tensioner" post on Cafe Husky?

All this talk about the subject makes me want to check mine, its not making a noise but I prefer pre-empting stuff rather than waiting for trouble.

Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 06, 2013, 10:28:21 am
Not difficult to check but really requires the removal of the exhaust for access. The CCT adjuster is on the left side of the engine down toward the bottom back side of the cylinder. I pull my exhaust when I check mine, but some don't but then really difficult. To check it pull the center bolt first, but be careful there is a spring behind it. Once the spring is out pull the bolts on either side of the adjuster and the the adjuster will slide out. Just count the clicks. Once it gets to 9 or 10 clicks its probably time to change the cam chain - I think there are 15 clicks in total. Reset the adjuster and reverse procedure and spring will reset tension when inserted. Many replace with a manual tensioner as it is surmised that the spring type can over tension the chain causing premature failure (often eating into the read valve  :eek7:). I am though not convinced at this stage.

A search on CH will reveal many threads I am sure. Here is one:

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/cct-11-clicks-out-at-3k-miles.1614/page-2#post-27821



Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: swart skaap on July 06, 2013, 11:13:41 am
follow this great how to: http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?60551-A-HOW-TO-610-Cam-Chain-Replacement&highlight=timing%20chain (http://www.supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?60551-A-HOW-TO-610-Cam-Chain-Replacement&highlight=timing%20chain)

(http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f9/dirtyhucker/DSC05528.jpg)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 06, 2013, 11:33:50 am
I just had my local engineering shop make up the washers for me, using EN8 steel, I asked him to radius the corners and make then twice as thick as the originals. I also got him to make the rivets. I think the whole lot cost me R150.00 or something like that, I even used the same clutch cover gasket. Since then I have had no issues with the clutch. 
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 06, 2013, 10:22:42 pm
I just had my local engineering shop make up the washers for me, using EN8 steel, I asked him to radius the corners and make then twice as thick as the originals. I also got him to make the rivets. I think the whole lot cost me R150.00 or something like that, I even used the same clutch cover gasket. Since then I have had no issues with the clutch. 
I was thinking that too, surely an egineering shop can do it chop chop if they have the measurements  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 07, 2013, 12:12:41 am
I got the cam chain and gasket from Blazes. I did not replace the sliders or check the rockers which I wish I did. My chain is presently on four clicks so it's sharp. It is possible to check the acct with the pipe on, did it last night.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 07, 2013, 12:14:27 am
Clutch hub off, the washers are indeed worn. Some are very thin and have fragments missing.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 07, 2013, 02:50:59 am
I just had my local engineering shop make up the washers for me, using EN8 steel, I asked him to radius the corners and make then twice as thick as the originals. I also got him to make the rivets. I think the whole lot cost me R150.00 or something like that, I even used the same clutch cover gasket. Since then I have had no issues with the clutch. 

While EN8 is through heat treated it remains machinable ... now if you then took it after machining and surface heat treated then we are talking. I believe this is what Dan does in USA.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 07, 2013, 08:28:28 am
If someone with a proper metal working/machining shop could make these washers locally it would probably be a lot cheaper and less of a pain in the butt than ordering from the states.

Although from Dan's reply to my mail I do think he makes a good product.  I liked the fact that it was both hardened (for wear resistance) and then tempered for toughness (so its not brittle).  The steel he uses looks superior to EN8 as well as far as I can tell - some kind of chomemoly vs medium carbon steel (although I'm not a metallurgist).

http://www.tatasteelnz.com/downloads/HighTens_AISI4140.pdf

http://kvsteel.co.uk/steel/EN8.htm
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 07, 2013, 09:23:16 pm
Ok so I'm sure I have found my metal pieces origin. The clutch hub is off thanks to swart skaap's clutch basket tool. One of the cup washers is missing half a piece, and some have bits broken off. The bronze bushing looks fine. Gonna try my luck at a engineering shop tomorrow. I just know that some might not want to do a small job like this. Anyone recommendations for GP ?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 07, 2013, 09:29:09 pm
Personally I would spend the R500 and buy the ones from Indy Unlimited/Dan - will be here within 10 days and will come regular mail.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 07, 2013, 09:31:48 pm
Personally I would spend the R500 and buy the ones from Indy Unlimited/Dan - will be here within 10 days and will come regular mail.
10 days might make it worthwhile !
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 07, 2013, 09:37:32 pm
R750-00 plus could take up to 3 weeks, just got his pm. Would have to be bulk order, gonna try locally first.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 07, 2013, 10:11:57 pm
Hmm  ::)  -  I paid $80 for two sets and I think $25 for express international mail?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 07, 2013, 10:51:12 pm
They only washers, it is not rocket science.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 07, 2013, 10:52:27 pm
They only washers, it is not rocket science.
Did they machine them from scratch, or did you have a stock one in good condition to copy ?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Welsh on July 08, 2013, 06:30:09 am
They only washers, it is not rocket science.
Did they machine them from scratch, or did you have a stock one in good condition to copy ?

Try Grim? 8)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 08, 2013, 07:26:27 am
They only washers, it is not rocket science.

No definately not rocket science - problem is they take alot of stress and ideally should be hardened but one struggles to find someone that will do a small batch.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 08, 2013, 07:45:22 am
No reason why these washers cant be made locally.

But I would insist on them using the right materials and heat treatment process.  Its pointless having the same problem in a few months time just to save a few bucks or some time.

So you need to find an engineering shop that has those capabilities. 

BTW

That clutch basket tool is really neat!   
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 08, 2013, 07:59:31 am
No reason why these washers cant be made locally.

But I would insist on them using the right materials and heat treatment process.  Its pointless having the same problem in a few months time just to save a few bucks or some time.

So you need to find an engineering shop that has those capabilities. 

BTW

That clutch basket tool is really neat!   
Yip and universal, will work on just about any bike
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 08, 2013, 08:23:57 am
Oh the other thing I did while 'in there' was carefully dress the ridges on the clutch baasket tangs with a fine file.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 08, 2013, 09:14:11 am
The motor did a good job of catching those metal bits. Many 610 have had this problem and I have never read of a motor failure. They seem strong. Next time I won't worry too much if a grain of sand falls into the spark plug hole :) Took the basket to Basils engineering. Looks like they will be able to sort me out.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 08, 2013, 09:32:52 am
The only reason the originals break is because they are too thin and the not radiused. Make them thicker and put a radius in and you will have no problems.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 08, 2013, 11:36:43 am
The only reason is the originals break is because they are too thin and the not radiused. Make them thicker and put a radius in and you will have no problems.

I don't completely agree.  The existing washers are very soft and thus wear very fast, the fact that they end up paper thin shows that.  Any radius will soon be worn away so I don't think that would make a big difference.

The key issue is using the right material that can be treated to be wear resistant.

Although you dont want it so hard that the clutch plate wear's instead.  Which is why I like the US option. He reports that he's done 50,000k's without any new issues which is obviously good feedback.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 08, 2013, 01:00:03 pm
The only reason is the originals break is because they are too thin and the not radiused. Make them thicker and put a radius in and you will have no problems.

I don't completely agree.  The existing washers are very soft and thus wear very fast, the fact that they end up paper thin shows that.  Any radius will soon be worn away so I don't think that would make a big difference.

The key issue is using the right material that can be treated to be wear resistant.

Although you dont want it so hard that the clutch plate wear's instead.  Which is why I like the US option. He reports that he's done 50,000k's without any new issues which is obviously good feedback.

I have done about 5,000 ks since i did mine and when I opened the clutch cover the other day to take a look there was not a mark on one of the washers, they looked the same as the day I fitted them.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 08, 2013, 01:44:55 pm
The only reason is the originals break is because they are too thin and the not radiused. Make them thicker and put a radius in and you will have no problems.

I don't completely agree.  The existing washers are very soft and thus wear very fast, the fact that they end up paper thin shows that.  Any radius will soon be worn away so I don't think that would make a big difference.

The key issue is using the right material that can be treated to be wear resistant.

Although you dont want it so hard that the clutch plate wear's instead.  Which is why I like the US option. He reports that he's done 50,000k's without any new issues which is obviously good feedback.

I have done about 5,000 ks since i did mine and when I opened the clutch cover the other day to take a look there was not a mark on one of the washers, they looked the same as the day I fitted them.

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Welsh on July 08, 2013, 01:50:11 pm
Question, how are the originals made? are they just punched out cups, or are they machined? that will give you a good indication of what they are made of / what is suitable to replace them 8)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 08, 2013, 01:52:32 pm
Question, how are the originals made? are they just punched out cups, or are they machined? that will give you a good indication of what they are made of / what is suitable to replace them 8)

They made out of spaghetti like a lot of other parts on Italian built machines   :laughing4:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 08, 2013, 01:58:16 pm
Question, how are the originals made? are they just punched out cups, or are they machined? that will give you a good indication of what they are made of / what is suitable to replace them 8)
I reckon they are pressed or punched ? No way I think they are machined (too thin).
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 11, 2013, 03:33:35 pm
Might have my clutch back by tomorrow, here's hoping  :ricky:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 18, 2013, 01:30:59 pm
Glad to say my TE610 is running again  :ricky: Engineering shop made new washers out of EN8 steel. Will just keep an eye on them, easy to pick up any wear in oil changes.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 18, 2013, 02:27:19 pm
look a bit skraal to me  ::)

The fatties:

Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 18, 2013, 03:01:45 pm
look a bit skraal to me  ::)

Looks good to me  ;)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 18, 2013, 03:02:47 pm
Glad to say my TE610 is running again  :ricky: Engineering shop made new washers out of EN8 steel. Will just keep an eye on them, easy to pick up any wear in oil changes.

Do you mind if I ask what it cost you in the end.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 18, 2013, 03:12:58 pm
R760 for the labour and parts
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 18, 2013, 03:38:28 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 18, 2013, 03:44:32 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: swart skaap on July 18, 2013, 03:46:26 pm
R760 for the labour and parts
Wat vra hulle om die engine te convert na 'n Honda toe?

 :biggrin:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 18, 2013, 03:48:21 pm
R760 for the labour and parts
Wat vra hulle om die engine te convert na 'n Honda toe?

 :biggrin:

One would first need a frontal lobotomy  8)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 18, 2013, 03:51:04 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Welsh on July 18, 2013, 04:05:42 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 18, 2013, 04:10:14 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)

I would also be interested to know, as would a lot of other people especially on Cafe Husky and Adv Rider.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 18, 2013, 04:14:12 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

What you guys all seem to missing is that if the washers are super duppa hard and they break the bits that end up in the gears will smash the gears. The OEM ones, as we have found out, do no damage to the gears when they break.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on July 18, 2013, 04:16:57 pm
R760 for the labour and parts
Wat vra hulle om die engine te convert na 'n Honda toe?

 :biggrin:

What I would not mind is the Honda clutch basket which has the rubber dampers fitted instead of the stupid springs and washers.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 19, 2013, 07:40:44 am
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
I have a whole bag full of sorry looking cup washers !
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Welsh on July 19, 2013, 07:49:29 am
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
I have a whole bag full of sorry looking cup washers !

If you get one to Groenie I will get it from him? 8)
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 19, 2013, 07:50:14 am

What you guys all seem to missing is that if the washers are super duppa hard and they break the bits that end up in the gears will smash the gears. The OEM ones, as we have found out, do no damage to the gears when they break.

Good point!

All of that went through my mind when I originally did the whole job, but what convinced me was the posts on AdvRider and Cafe Husky of guys having no issues at all after long periods of using these parts.

I must admit the idea of metal bits floating around in the oil is not something I find appealing.  My instinct is to avoid that all together.  So I err on the side of using parts that are strong enough and hard enough not to wear or break at all.  That's not impossible.  And seems to have been accomplished.

Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: BiG DoM on July 19, 2013, 09:52:55 am

What you guys all seem to missing is that if the washers are super duppa hard and they break the bits that end up in the gears will smash the gears. The OEM ones, as we have found out, do no damage to the gears when they break.

Good point!

All of that went through my mind when I originally did the whole job, but what convinced me was the posts on AdvRider and Cafe Husky of guys having no issues at all after long periods of using these parts.

I must admit the idea of metal bits floating around in the oil is not something I find appealing.  My instinct is to avoid that all together.  So I err on the side of using parts that are strong enough and hard enough not to wear or break at all.  That's not impossible.  And seems to have been accomplished.



+1000  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 19, 2013, 08:53:52 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
I have a whole bag full of sorry looking cup washers !

If you get one to Groenie I will get it from him? 8)
Will get one of the washers to him
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 20, 2013, 10:56:31 pm
I'm glad to report a thread that started with a mechanical problem is starting to turn into a sweet ride ! Thanks to Alan B's headlight the TE sailed through the roadworthy this morning. Picked up a clutch cable from Blazes and the pull is much better ! Must say they made that cable just the right length, I tried a number of routes and ended up taking the cable underneath the handle bar clamp. Seems to work best on my bike.

Two things I will need doing in the near future : the boot between the carb and airbox has small cracks in it. Not all the way through yet but you can clearly see them, also the steering stem bearings is on the way out. I could feel the handling is not as it should be, if I gently turn the bars I can feel a slight notchiness a the point where the wheel points straight.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on July 20, 2013, 10:58:42 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
Welsh in your opinion would EN8 do the job ?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Welsh on July 21, 2013, 06:11:08 am
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
Welsh in your opinion would EN8 do the job ?

Emergency Number 8 :biggrin: these days 080M30 a carbon steel, hardenable, I cannot actually say it is ok or not as I dont have the mechanical loadings, but it might be fine 8) 
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: BiG DoM on July 21, 2013, 08:00:51 am
It is the word "hardenable" that may be critical. I understand that EN8 is a very hard carbon steel and may well do the job. I am not sure what effect, if any, machining would have on it but presume the two guys who make aftermarket washers and harden them afterwards see it as an added surety of sorts. The one guy, Dan, hardens and tempers the washers - I think Alan posted details of the process.

The other guy Luke states: "My custom washers are already in production. After careful consideration, I have several experts in the field of hardening of the material consulted and further processing. I picked one of the best materials for such loads. Original washers are beeing made of low carbon tool steel material (...Ive picked is DIN 20MnCr5) and then tempered on 30-32 HRC (mesured on super rockwell). Because of such surface loads i will not do tepmering, but cementation (surface hardness and core strenght). If you know the procedure, you know what i mean. Surface hardness will be aboult 65-70 HRC...that is special for wear resistance" I know that the one lot (Dan's) remain looking silver and the latter pitch black.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: alanB on July 21, 2013, 09:41:34 am
I'm glad to report a thread that started with a mechanical problem is starting to turn into a sweet ride ! Thanks to Alan B's headlight the TE sailed through the roadworthy this morning. Picked up a clutch cable from Blazes and the pull is much better ! Must say they made that cable just the right length, I tried a number of routes and ended up taking the cable underneath the handle bar clamp. Seems to work best on my bike.


 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: Rough Rider on July 21, 2013, 11:42:51 am
It is the word "hardenable" that may be critical. I understand that EN8 is a very hard carbon steel and may well do the job. I am not sure what effect, if any, machining would have on it but presume the two guys who make aftermarket washers and harden them afterwards see it as an added surety of sorts. The one guy, Dan, hardens and tempers the washers - I think Alan posted details of the process.

The other guy Luke states: "My custom washers are already in production. After careful consideration, I have several experts in the field of hardening of the material consulted and further processing. I picked one of the best materials for such loads. Original washers are beeing made of low carbon tool steel material (...Ive picked is DIN 20MnCr5) and then tempered on 30-32 HRC (mesured on super rockwell). Because of such surface loads i will not do tepmering, but cementation (surface hardness and core strenght). If you know the procedure, you know what i mean. Surface hardness will be aboult 65-70 HRC...that is special for wear resistance" I know that the one lot (Dan's) remain looking silver and the latter pitch black.

I don't like the fact that there no radius at the transition between the shaft part and mushroom part of the washer. The way the washers in the photographs are machined they have serious stress raiser in this area which is where the cracks initiate which cause the washers to fail. If you look at the broken washers they all break at this transition area.

Can you imagine if the crank-pins on a crankshaft are made with no radius between the pin and the webs? The shaft would break in a very short period. The same with cylinder head valves; there is a serious radius machined between the stem and the mushroom, if it was square, like the washers are then the mushroom would break off the stem in a matter of minutes after starting the engine

You can have the best material in the world but if the design is crap it will still fail. I made very sure that the washers I made had a nice radius in this area.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: swart skaap on July 21, 2013, 12:01:51 pm
An added radius makes a lot of sense.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: alanB on July 21, 2013, 01:31:50 pm
It is the word "hardenable" that may be critical. I understand that EN8 is a very hard carbon steel and may well do the job. I am not sure what effect, if any, machining would have on it but presume the two guys who make aftermarket washers and harden them afterwards see it as an added surety of sorts. The one guy, Dan, hardens and tempers the washers - I think Alan posted details of the process.

The other guy Luke states: "My custom washers are already in production. After careful consideration, I have several experts in the field of hardening of the material consulted and further processing. I picked one of the best materials for such loads. Original washers are beeing made of low carbon tool steel material (...Ive picked is DIN 20MnCr5) and then tempered on 30-32 HRC (mesured on super rockwell). Because of such surface loads i will not do tepmering, but cementation (surface hardness and core strenght). If you know the procedure, you know what i mean. Surface hardness will be aboult 65-70 HRC...that is special for wear resistance" I know that the one lot (Dan's) remain looking silver and the latter pitch black.

I don't like the fact that there no radius at the transition between the shaft part and mushroom part of the washer. The way the washers in the photographs are machined they have serious stress raiser in this area which is where the cracks initiate which cause the washers to fail. If you look at the broken washers they all break at this transition area.

Can you imagine if the crank-pins on a crankshaft are made with no radius between the pin and the webs? The shaft would break in a very short period. The same with cylinder head valves; there is a serious radius machined between the stem and the mushroom, if it was square, like the washers are then the mushroom would break off the stem in a matter of minutes after starting the engine

You can have the best material in the world but if the design is crap it will still fail. I made very sure that the washers I made had a nice radius in this area.

If you think about how the load is carried by these washers in operation, you will see that the force is between the spring and back of the washer, the inside "shaft" bit is just there to locate the washer on the spring.  So none, or very little force runs through that, and hence the stress at the transition between the "shaft" and the rim of the washer is negligible.  So I don't think that has anything to do with why they are failing.

The reason why you see the bits break there is simply because the rim is worn away and becomes too thin.  If you took one of the new washers and just filed away the rim in the same way, whilst hammering on it at the same time, it would eventually break as well, a radius would not help at all IMO.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: sidetrack on July 21, 2013, 07:44:10 pm
One of my old washers, you can clearly see wear by both the spring and clutch hub locating side
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: BiG DoM on July 22, 2013, 08:26:02 am

[/quote]

If you think about how the load is carried by these washers in operation, you will see that the force is between the spring and back of the washer, the inside "shaft" bit is just there to locate the washer on the spring.  So none, or very little force runs through that, and hence the stress at the transition between the "shaft" and the rim of the washer is negligible.  So I don't think that has anything to do with why they are failing.

The reason why you see the bits break there is simply because the rim is worn away and becomes too thin.  If you took one of the new washers and just filed away the rim in the same way, whilst hammering on it at the same time, it would eventually break as well, a radius would not help at all IMO.
[/quote]

I must agree with Alan here - I do not think comparisons with crankshaft pins and valves are appropriate, completely different sets of forces at play. The shaft is merely a locating mechanism and not load bearing in any way - it is the washer part that is taking the hammering. Anyway do not want to get into dick swinging as too whose washers are better, harder, thicker   >:D  So long as they are doing their job.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: Rough Rider on July 22, 2013, 09:56:42 am
One of my old washers, you can clearly see wear by both the spring and clutch hub locating side

Just have a look at where the cracks propagated from on the second photo  :deal:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: BiG DoM on July 22, 2013, 10:45:53 am
One of my old washers, you can clearly see wear by both the spring and clutch hub locating side

Just have a look at where the cracks propagated from on the second photo  :deal:

That proves nothing other than the steel washer part was weak under duress and would obviously fracture from the next strongest point ... whether a radius would have prevented this I think would be a moot point ... maybe prolonged the inevitable as the washer got worn thinner and thinner.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen and fixing other niggly bits
Post by: alanB on July 22, 2013, 08:26:45 pm
One of my old washers, you can clearly see wear by both the spring and clutch hub locating side

Just have a look at where the cracks propagated from on the second photo  :deal:

Ja look ultimately this is an academic argument, but I would predict that a washer with a radius would still crack/break where the radius ends, simply because it wears thin and then breaks off the thicker "shaft".

The key here I think is getting washers that don't wear so fast, but aren't so hard that the clutch plates wear rapidly instead (transferring the problem to the more expensive clutch plates).

That Dan guy in the US quoted a hardness of 44 Rockwell for his washers which isn't fantastically hard, but still quite hard, so again, I think he's got it more or less right - from my simplistic point of view.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue
Post by: sidetrack on August 01, 2013, 09:47:32 pm
Fitted the smaller indicators and after some q's I got hold of a led relay flasher from Offroad Cycles. The new one is round where as the old one is square but it still fits behind the side panel no problem. I made up a small flylead with a spade and pin connector. Almost plug and play. Fitted a H4 globe to the TE250 reflector I got from AlanB, had to cut the stock headlight slightly at the top of the opening then drilled two new mounting holes for the reflector housing.

Old

New

H4
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue
Post by: alanB on August 02, 2013, 10:57:11 am
Nice  :thumleft:

You may want to rig up a metal heatshield in front of the 50W H4 to stop it melting the plastic lens.  If I remember correctly the TE250 fitting was only rated for a 35W bulb.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue
Post by: BiG DoM on August 02, 2013, 12:11:08 pm
Ja all those standard TE fittings were 35w 'candle in the wind' jobs! WTF?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue
Post by: sidetrack on August 02, 2013, 06:52:33 pm
Nice  :thumleft:

You may want to rig up a metal heatshield in front of the 50W H4 to stop it melting the plastic lens.  If I remember correctly the TE250 fitting was only rated for a 35W bulb.
I got hold of a 35W, I reckon it's still better than the stock globe ? Have yet to try the HID kit, too scared after I read it puts out 30 000 V at startup  :biggrin: I will get the stock headlight back to you  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: sidetrack on August 14, 2013, 10:38:02 am
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
Welsh could you decipher the composition of the Italian metal ?
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Rough Rider on August 14, 2013, 10:39:27 am
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
Welsh could you decipher the composition of the Italian metal ?

I bet is is just common run of the mill carbon steel.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue
Post by: Slinte Mhaith on August 14, 2013, 10:50:30 am
 :sip:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue
Post by: sidetrack on August 20, 2013, 07:37:25 pm
At 15-46 the TE's 6th gear still feels like an overdrive, has anyone tried 15-48. Punched it into gearing commander and the numbers still looks good, should be a little torque monster offroad as well.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: BiG DoM on August 20, 2013, 07:40:21 pm
I use a 47 and very happy. Can pull 160kph no worries and perfect for me in the technical stuff.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: alanB on August 21, 2013, 06:12:56 am
I use a 48 back and standard size front sprocket.

Goes nicely  :thumleft:

I can still cruise at 120-130 on the highway and it a lot of fun offroad.

Fuel consumption must be worse though although I havent measured it since I put the sprocket on (a year ago).  The big tank makes measuring fuel consumption a bit trickier bexcause I dont alway remember to re-set the trip meter (when I still had one) and I never fill the tank, unless I going really far.

Also I recently put a T63 on the back, I went for the 120 width because it was really cheap ( :P),  its probably a bit small for the bike.  Consequently the diameter of the tyre is a bit  less than my previous tyre.

The difference in gearing that small change in diameter made was quite noticeable under acceleration, not so much at top end.  I almost got caught out the other day by opening up hard on a long straight of a little nearby MX/quad track and then suddenly realising I might not make the corner which was approaching much faster than usual - had to really brake hard to get round  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: swart skaap on August 21, 2013, 09:38:41 am
(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=128417.0;attach=298487;image)
This is remarkably close to the CRFx with 15-48 gearing. (which I found too tall in 1st gear)
I suspect that your torque-oriented motor might not stall as much as the CRFx in 1st.

Damn that 6th gear is o-so-nice for cruising :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: swart skaap on August 21, 2013, 09:43:43 am
Seeing as you had a CRF recently, you might like to see the gearing of the two compared.
The CRF limited to 7000RPM:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: sidetrack on August 21, 2013, 03:45:16 pm
(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=128417.0;attach=298487;image)
This is remarkably close to the CRFx with 15-48 gearing. (which I found too tall in 1st gear)
I suspect that your torque-oriented motor might not stall as much as the CRFx in 1st.

Damn that 6th gear is o-so-nice for cruising :thumleft:

Agreed
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: BiG DoM on August 21, 2013, 09:34:01 pm
Pity the Kush sprockets are only available in 41, 45 and 50 at present. While not a complete substitute to a cush hub it seems they do help a lot. Guess if I went 16 front and 50 rear would keep it about the same as present.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> gearing
Post by: swart skaap on August 22, 2013, 12:01:47 am
Pity the Kush sprockets are only available in 41, 45 and 50 at present. While not a complete substitute to a cush hub it seems they do help a lot. Guess if I went 16 front and 50 rear would keep it about the same as present.
if a 16 front would fit, it would actually be better than a 15, seeing as there will be more clearance between the chain and slider on the swing arm
 :thumleft:
I would have thought that 48T is a common size  ???
Title: Wah there you little monster !
Post by: sidetrack on September 28, 2013, 01:35:52 pm
Got around to fit the LV pipe today, I swear it's not just the extra music - the front is very light under acceleration  :ricky: I reckon the jetting was a little rich and the new pipe sorted that.
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: Welsh on September 28, 2013, 02:02:27 pm
R760 for the labour and parts

Good deal if it lasts.

Mine one, which is similar, has lasted just fine.

It would be interesting to know the density/hardness of the original washers.

Density will tell you nothing, but get me the bits and can tell you hardness and chemical analysis 8)
Welsh could you decipher the composition of the Italian metal ?

Not yet been busy with other kark have not been to the lab recently :-[
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> exhaust
Post by: swart skaap on September 28, 2013, 04:56:43 pm
lyk mooi
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> exhaust
Post by: sidetrack on October 07, 2013, 09:22:41 am
Fitted the Hyde skid plate yesterday, the Motosportz one is now a man cave decoration. The Hyde fits the bike like a glove and is a lot lighter than the thick aluminium unit. It is also much easier to fit. But I'm still in two minds, on the last trip the aluminium bash plate took some big hits and did it's job quite well.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> exhaust
Post by: BiG DoM on October 07, 2013, 10:21:50 am
Fitted the Hyde skid plate yesterday, the Motosportz one is now a man cave decoration. The Hyde fits the bike like a glove and is a lot lighter than the thick aluminium unit. It is also much easier to fit. But I'm still in two minds, on the last trip the aluminium bash plate took somec big hits and did it's job quite well.

It is superior to any alu bashplate in every respect. It just needs an extra hole drilled underneath on the one side so can drain water on sude stand after washing  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: swart skaap on October 07, 2013, 12:01:19 pm
What mod are you going to do next?

Was wondering if you should wrap the head in noise cancelling foam?
 :pot:

I was worried about that Lister sound emanating from it; In those rural places, cattle personify the sound of a Lister with running water  ;D
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: sidetrack on October 07, 2013, 12:29:08 pm
What mod are you going to do next?

Was wondering if you should wrap the head in noise cancelling foam?
 :pot:

I was worried about that Lister sound emanating from it; In those rural places, cattle personify the sound of a Lister with running water  ;D
Rocker bushes, then it will be as quiet as a Honda !
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: Straatkat on October 08, 2013, 04:35:57 pm
Where did you get the Hyde from? Locally? Price?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: sidetrack on October 08, 2013, 06:23:36 pm
Where did you get the Hyde from? Locally? Price?
Where did you get the Hyde from? Locally? Price?
From Offroad Cycles but he had to order. Was around R600 - R650 if I remember correctly.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: BiG DoM on October 08, 2013, 08:00:49 pm
Might have one for you.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: Straatkat on October 08, 2013, 09:19:45 pm
Let me know what you want for it, thinking of putting it on for everyday riding, my ally one is fine, but heavy for local jaunts.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: sidetrack on October 19, 2013, 08:01:26 pm
One thing that has been bugging me since the new cam chain is the noticable tapping sound from the top end. It drove me nuts and despite some people saying it's normal for a 610 I knew that it was much more quiet when I first got the bike. So today I decided to investigate, after dumping just about all off the coolant on the garage floor I managed to take the waterpump off with the gasket in one piece ! I did not want to order parts before having a good look at the rockers. I read that the rocker shafts and bushes are prone to wear. Cheap fix is to flip the shafts 180 degrees, I reckoned at least that will help me to confirm if they are causing the noise.

Eventually got the rocker box off and marked how they (shafts) were sitting then felt for play, I pushed and pulled and it felt like there was minute play but I could not be sure. My guess was a micro milleter play could certainly translate in rocker noise. I extracted the shafts by using a 6mm bolt that screws in the side on the outside off the shaft. They came out pretty easily, then it was time to inspect.

Straight away I noticed the bushes had some bronze showing on the one side and sure enough the shafts also had a shiny vs dull side clearly showing uneven wear. I was a bit surprised at the shafts because they are made from what looks like steel ! Maybe the same steel the clutch cup washers are made off  >:D I flipped them and re installed and checked the valve clearance again. Started up and tadaa much quieter, almost like a Honda  :biggrin:

So I'll be off to the local Husky shop soon and placing an order. Only thing that bothers me is that the bushes seems to be pressed inside the rocker, although the bushes are listed it may be better just to order a complete rocker assembly and new shaft ? Any how if any 610 owners hears some top end clatter this is worth a look. I have heard that flipping them will excelerate wear so it's definetly only a temporary solution. I still think these bikes suffer from a poorly head. Parts wear just way too fast for a bike with service intervals as stated but hey no bike is perfect and I still rate it as the best ds bike I have owned.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: swart skaap on October 20, 2013, 07:09:29 pm
Doesn't that bike only have 13 000km on the odo?

That's only 130 hours at 100km/h average.  :o
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: sidetrack on October 20, 2013, 07:50:12 pm
Doesn't that bike only have 13 000km on the odo?

That's only 130 hours at 100km/h average.  :o
17 000km
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: HK on October 25, 2013, 09:18:34 pm
Onthou net asb , as jy iets bestel vir die husky laat my weet asb , ek wil ook maar begin stock op bou vir die future . Ek gaan die bike lank ry  :thumleft: 

Gee nie om wat Swartskaap te se" het nie  :lamer:

Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: Rough Rider on October 26, 2013, 09:42:29 am
One thing that has been bugging me since the new cam chain is the noticable tapping sound from the top end. It drove me nuts and despite some people saying it's normal for a 610 I knew that it was much more quiet when I first got the bike. So today I decided to investigate, after dumping just about all off the coolant on the garage floor I managed to take the waterpump off with the gasket in one piece ! I did not want to order parts before having a good look at the rockers. I read that the rocker shafts and bushes are prone to wear. Cheap fix is to flip the shafts 180 degrees, I reckoned at least that will help me to confirm if they are causing the noise.

Eventually got the rocker box off and marked how they (shafts) were sitting then felt for play, I pushed and pulled and it felt like there was minute play but I could not be sure. My guess was a micro milleter play could certainly translate in rocker noise. I extracted the shafts by using a 6mm bolt that screws in the side on the outside off the shaft. They came out pretty easily, then it was time to inspect.

Straight away I noticed the bushes had some bronze showing on the one side and sure enough the shafts also had a shiny vs dull side clearly showing uneven wear. I was a bit surprised at the shafts because they are made from what looks like steel ! Maybe the same steel the clutch cup washers are made off  >:D I flipped them and re installed and checked the valve clearance again. Started up and tadaa much quieter, almost like a Honda  :biggrin:

So I'll be off to the local Husky shop soon and placing an order. Only thing that bothers me is that the bushes seems to be pressed inside the rocker, although the bushes are listed it may be better just to order a complete rocker assembly and new shaft ? Any how if any 610 owners hears some top end clatter this is worth a look. I have heard that flipping them will excelerate wear so it's definetly only a temporary solution. I still think these bikes suffer from a poorly head. Parts wear just way too fast for a bike with service intervals as stated but hey no bike is perfect and I still rate it as the best ds bike I have owned.

There is nothing wrong with those bushes, and shaft does not look too bad either.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> skid plate
Post by: sidetrack on October 26, 2013, 01:22:40 pm
One thing that has been bugging me since the new cam chain is the noticable tapping sound from the top end. It drove me nuts and despite some people saying it's normal for a 610 I knew that it was much more quiet when I first got the bike. So today I decided to investigate, after dumping just about all off the coolant on the garage floor I managed to take the waterpump off with the gasket in one piece ! I did not want to order parts before having a good look at the rockers. I read that the rocker shafts and bushes are prone to wear. Cheap fix is to flip the shafts 180 degrees, I reckoned at least that will help me to confirm if they are causing the noise.

Eventually got the rocker box off and marked how they (shafts) were sitting then felt for play, I pushed and pulled and it felt like there was minute play but I could not be sure. My guess was a micro milleter play could certainly translate in rocker noise. I extracted the shafts by using a 6mm bolt that screws in the side on the outside off the shaft. They came out pretty easily, then it was time to inspect.

Straight away I noticed the bushes had some bronze showing on the one side and sure enough the shafts also had a shiny vs dull side clearly showing uneven wear. I was a bit surprised at the shafts because they are made from what looks like steel ! Maybe the same steel the clutch cup washers are made off  >:D I flipped them and re installed and checked the valve clearance again. Started up and tadaa much quieter, almost like a Honda  :biggrin:

So I'll be off to the local Husky shop soon and placing an order. Only thing that bothers me is that the bushes seems to be pressed inside the rocker, although the bushes are listed it may be better just to order a complete rocker assembly and new shaft ? Any how if any 610 owners hears some top end clatter this is worth a look. I have heard that flipping them will excelerate wear so it's definetly only a temporary solution. I still think these bikes suffer from a poorly head. Parts wear just way too fast for a bike with service intervals as stated but hey no bike is perfect and I still rate it as the best ds bike I have owned.

There is nothing wrong with those bushes, and shaft does not look too bad either.
Looking at them  there seems to be wear, flipping them made the motor quiet ?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: sidetrack on October 31, 2013, 10:51:50 am
Well I did another oil change after the clutch repair and the debris are no gone, very little metal deposit on the magnetic drain plug so all looks fine.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: BiG DoM on October 31, 2013, 11:56:36 am
... I presume you mean now and not no ...  :eek7:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: sidetrack on October 31, 2013, 12:41:00 pm
... I presume you mean now and not no ...  :eek7:
Yip
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 02:37:48 pm
Rocker bushes now fubar top end sounds terrible, factory moving in Italy and no stock locally and ordering online will take just as long. No riding for at least a month I would guess  :(
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: HK on November 13, 2013, 02:44:36 pm
Ag nee sweer , dis bad . Kan jy nie die goed laat maak by daai engineering plek nie ?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: BiG DoM on November 13, 2013, 02:46:02 pm
Rocker bushes now fubar top end sounds terrible, factory moving in Italy and no stock locally and ordering online will take just as long. No riding for at least a month I would guess  :(

Order from Halls or Zipty in USA - USPS Intl = 10 days. Can ship in a padded envelope I am sure.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 03:20:29 pm
Rocker bushes now fubar top end sounds terrible, factory moving in Italy and no stock locally and ordering online will take just as long. No riding for at least a month I would guess  :(

Order from Halls or Zipty in USA - USPS Intl = 10 days. Can ship in a padded envelope I am sure.  :thumleft:
Parts $13, shipping $43  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> ROCKER SHAFTS
Post by: BiG DoM on November 13, 2013, 03:40:21 pm
Rocker bushes now fubar top end sounds terrible, factory moving in Italy and no stock locally and ordering online will take just as long. No riding for at least a month I would guess  :(

Order from Halls or Zipty in USA - USPS Intl = 10 days. Can ship in a padded envelope I am sure.  :thumleft:
Parts $13, shipping $43  :biggrin:

Ja shipping is often the expense. Ask them to check the shipping cost as that sounds expensive on small parts - they often quote a ballpark figure.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 09:07:02 pm
Eish so I go back and strip the rocker box to get to the bushes and shafts, while I'm taking it apart I have a look at the waterpump and to my dismay I find I can take the small nut off the impeller shaft by hand ! On further inspection I see that the impeller which is slotted is totally worn and just spins freely on the shaft. Looks like a pewter piece of shit. Basicly I have been riding who knows how many km's with a impeller that was not spinning, next obvious question did the bike overheat ? I had no warning light, no obvious milky residue in the oil but the coolant did look darker than normal, maybe from becoming too hot. Really don't know how to test for this except taking the head off ? The spark plug looked normal as well. Poured the coolant into a container and apart from the darker colour there was no oil slick on top.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 13, 2013, 09:19:09 pm
 :eek7: :eek7: :eek7:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 09:33:22 pm
:eek7: :eek7: :eek7:
:angry7:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 13, 2013, 09:36:07 pm
Jammer om te hoor Jacques.
Hoop jy kry jou fiets weer vinnig aan die go
 ;)
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 09:37:03 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 13, 2013, 09:42:40 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Coolant has to cycle past/through the sensor in order for the light and fan to register a warm condition.

Where is the pickup of the temperature sensor for the light located?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 09:47:47 pm
More than likely do a compression and radiator leak down test when everything is back together
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: HK on November 13, 2013, 09:48:04 pm
Ag nee shit man  :eek7:  ek vermoed hy moes nog gedraai het anders sou hy beslis  headgasket gepop het.

Was dit nie wetter wat jou engine so laat raas het nie ?

Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 09:48:35 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Coolant has to cycle past/through the sensor in order for the light and fan to register a warm condition.

Where is the pickup for the temperature sensor of the light located?
In one of the hoses but not in the rad
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 13, 2013, 09:53:50 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Coolant has to cycle past/through the sensor in order for the light and fan to register a warm condition.

Where is the pickup for the temperature sensor of the light located?
In one of the hoses but not in the rad
See, if the sensor is not on the head itself, it means f'kall.
My water cooled PC suffered a water pump failure a while back. The CPU was boiling the liquid in the waterblock while the liquid in the pipes and radiator was barely warmer than usual.
Water is a poor conductor by nature.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 10:03:11 pm
Ag nee shit man  :eek7:  ek vermoed hy moes nog gedraai het anders sou hy beslis  headgasket gepop het.

Was dit nie wetter wat jou engine so laat raas het nie ?


Ja maar ek scheme jy sal kan ry met n head gasket wat gepop het. Het gelees dat dit n engine meer raserig maak, jy het hom gehoor. Mens lees te veel op die net dan gaan n mens op hol, shit deel is nou moet ek n maand sit en wonder wat presies daar aangaan tot parte arriveer. Sit alles aanmekaar en dan weer dieselfde stront. Die rockers het defnitief meer play as van te vore so hulle is gaar, impeller kon teen housing geskuur het en ook bedrae to geraas maar die engine was rerig rof en loud veral toe hy warm was. Die volgende dag het ek hom weer gestart en hy was bietjie stiller. As ek geweet het kon ek die coolant level gecheck het maar ek het dit gedrain voor ek van die stront geweet het.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 10:07:42 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Coolant has to cycle past/through the sensor in order for the light and fan to register a warm condition.

Where is the pickup of the temperature sensor for the light located?
In the pipes no. 36
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: HK on November 13, 2013, 10:12:40 pm
Ja dis waar , regtig jammer jy het so shit met die bike . Laat weet asb as ek jou kan help met iets.



Maar nou begin ek ook wonder of my besluit wys was  ???

Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 13, 2013, 10:15:52 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Coolant has to cycle past/through the sensor in order for the light and fan to register a warm condition.

Where is the pickup of the temperature sensor for the light located?
In the pipes no. 36
:-\ Yes as stated, the sensor can not be trusted to determine an overheating condition, being located where it is.
Water will thermosiphon but it will take quite a while.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon)
Only way to tell would be as you said; to open her up
 :-[

MacMac's 450 had a total melt down due to a similar incident.
You were really lucky Jacques
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 13, 2013, 10:18:02 pm
Ja dis waar , regtig jammer jy het so shit met die bike . Laat weet asb as ek jou kan help met iets.



Maar nou begin ek ook wonder of my besluit wys was  ???




If I remember correctly sidetracks scoot is a lot older and appeared to have had quite a rough life before he got it.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 13, 2013, 10:31:45 pm
Not so.
His 610 was a "minter" when he 1st got it at 13K km.
He takes good care of his bikes too; his 440 DRZ is testament to that.

Jacques, the fact that there is no water in the oil is certainly a good sign. It's very likely that all will be OK with new rockers, bushes and an impeller.
See what Conrad thinks too.
 :thumleft:
 
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 11:12:22 pm
Hmm ok lets say the impeller did not spin or spin randomly and slow but coolant present, what would be the chances of a stuffed head gasket ? What say you  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 11:16:29 pm
No temp light and the fan did not come on therefore coolant could not have been too hot but a possible head gasket failure is still possible ? The motor did knock and tick even more than usual.
Coolant has to cycle past/through the sensor in order for the light and fan to register a warm condition.

Where is the pickup of the temperature sensor for the light located?
In the pipes no. 36
:-\ Yes as stated, the sensor can not be trusted to determine an overheating condition, being located where it is.
Water will thermosiphon but it will take quite a while.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thermosiphon)
Only way to tell would be as you said; to open her up
 :-[

MacMac's 450 had a total melt down due to a similar incident.
You were really lucky Jacques
Cool so circulation is possible even without a impellar ? We did not do any technical riding, open medium speed, hope the passing air helped  :P
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: Straatkat on November 13, 2013, 11:20:00 pm
HK, moenie stres nie, 610 Husky's is baie goeie bikes, op forums hoor mens net van al die k#k, en nooit van al die bikes wat soos klokslag loop nie. Hulle is high performance bikes en soos met all dinge meganies, kan mens van tyd tot tyd seker issues verwag. Waar kry jy 'n bike wat net 140kg weeg en 54hp stoot? ;)
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 13, 2013, 11:27:19 pm
Ja dis waar , regtig jammer jy het so shit met die bike . Laat weet asb as ek jou kan help met iets.



Maar nou begin ek ook wonder of my besluit wys was  ???


Nee man hulle is sharp, dink ek het maar net n maandag bike gekry. Ek reken ook die 2006 het meer issues omdat hulle die eerste van die nuwe shape was. Maar hy is nog steeds vinniger  :biggrin: Julle moet maar kom bier drink en raad gee, moet net eers my gras sny  ;D
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: Straatkat on November 13, 2013, 11:30:35 pm
Hmm ok lets say the impeller did not spin or spin randomly and slow but coolant present, what would be the chances of a stuffed head gasket ? What say you  :biggrin:

Logic tells me that hot coolant rises to then highest point which is probably the radiator, and it gets heated in the head, so with some luck you might have had some coolant movement due to convection, and that coupled to a impeller that was probably still turning some, I am putting my money on your head gasket still being OK, But you can check by doing a compression test. Oil in the coolant would be a sign, but that depends where the gasket was compromised. (between oil and coolant passages) Just my 2c
How many km's on your scoot?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 14, 2013, 06:10:58 am
Not so.
His 610 was a "minter" when he 1st got it at 13K km.
He takes good care of his bikes too; his 440 DRZ is testament to that.

Jacques, the fact that there is no water in the oil is certainly a good sign. It's very likely that all will be OK with new rockers, bushes and an impeller.
See what Conrad thinks too.
 :thumleft:
 

Sorry sidetrack - my error.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 07:36:03 am

How many km's on your scoot?
18 000km
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 14, 2013, 07:41:35 am
Hulle is high performance bikes en soos met all dinge meganies, kan mens van tyd tot tyd seker issues verwag. Waar kry jy 'n bike wat net 140kg weeg en 54hp stoot? ;)
Klink of jy die 610 met die 510 verwar. Die 610 is n average performance bike. Daai 54hp is op die crank gemeet: trek 20% af.

Biggest thing in the 610's favour is the fact that there are almost no alternatives to them..especially at their price!
Oh and that awesome 6th gear.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 07:52:15 am
Actually think the motors are pretty tough, mine ran with clutch cup washers floating around in the motor, worn rocker bushes and not a failed waterpump. We did about 120km/h riding back home and besides the noisy motor it still pulled strong.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 14, 2013, 08:07:41 am
Actually think the motors are pretty tough, mine ran with clutch cup washers floating around in the motor, worn rocker bushes and not a failed waterpump. We did about 120km/h riding back home and besides the noisy motor it still pulled strong.
Alternative to water in oil, is leaking compression, resulting in a drop in power.
Sounds like your gasket is still ok.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 08:24:21 am
I'm not the only one ..

http://nateandkirstin.com/images/TE610/impeller.html (http://nateandkirstin.com/images/TE610/impeller.html)
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 08:35:25 am
Impellar part #  8A00 60415, shared with the 450/510 - Primrose got one in stock !
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: Straatkat on November 14, 2013, 09:03:05 am

Klink of jy die 610 met die 510 verwar. Die 610 is n average performance bike. Daai 54hp is op die crank gemeet: trek 20% af.

Biggest thing in the 610's favour is the fact that there are almost no alternatives to them..especially at their price!
Oh and that awesome 6th gear.
[/quote]

Wag net so 'n bietjie, die 54hp was wel op die krukas, maar toe power-up ons die bike, wat 'n GROOT verskil maak, sekerlik ten minste die 20% waarvan jy praat. So dan is ons weer op 54Hp op die agterwiel, maar dis net spekulasie. Het enige iemand al die 610 met P/U op 'n dyno gehad (met 'n gladde band, nie 'n knobbly nie, miskien 'n SM)

There are alternatives, for one the X-Challenge. but having said that I won't easily swop my 610 for another adv bike, it spins its wheel everywhere I go on dirt and goes fast enough on tar to overtake safely.
at the end of the day everything is an trade-off, the 610 hits the balance for me.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 14, 2013, 09:14:27 am
I'm not the only one ..

http://nateandkirstin.com/images/TE610/impeller.html (http://nateandkirstin.com/images/TE610/impeller.html)

Not entirely clear but is this link saying a Cagiva impellar will work - looks like it has larger fins - a good thing I guess but does it clear? I am guessing so?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 09:24:52 am
I'm not the only one ..

http://nateandkirstin.com/images/TE610/impeller.html (http://nateandkirstin.com/images/TE610/impeller.html)

Not entirely clear but is this link saying a Cagiva impellar will work - looks like it has larger fins - a good thing I guess but does it clear? I am guessing so?
No it's just got the Cagiva brand name on it, mine has it too. No aftermarket avaliable as far as I know.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 14, 2013, 09:47:00 am

[/quote]

Not entirely clear but is this link saying a Cagiva impellar will work - looks like it has larger fins - a good thing I guess but does it clear? I am guessing so?
[/quote]No it's just got the Cagiva brand name on it, mine has it too. No aftermarket avaliable as far as I know.
[/quote]

OK - what does Prim want to hit you for a new one?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 14, 2013, 10:10:39 am
Wag net so 'n bietjie, die 54hp was wel op die krukas, maar toe power-up ons die bike, wat 'n GROOT verskil maak, sekerlik ten minste die 20% waarvan jy praat. So dan is ons weer op 54Hp op die agterwiel, maar dis net spekulasie. Het enige iemand al die 610 met P/U op 'n dyno gehad (met 'n gladde band, nie 'n knobbly nie, miskien 'n SM)
Forgive me for the side discussion here Jacques
54hp is 5hp meer as wat 'n 530ktm maak. HK het nou die dag nog beide die 610 en 530 gehad. Hy se self die 610 is heelwat papper as die 530. Soos in 'n ander liga wat krag aanbetref.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 14, 2013, 10:16:26 am
Oh for noting there are high spec/volume impellers available that allow the bike to run cooler. Available from Halls if I recall.

http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/installation-of-oversize-water-pump-2009-txc-450.25153/#post-241437 (http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/installation-of-oversize-water-pump-2009-txc-450.25153/#post-241437)
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 10:18:00 am


Not entirely clear but is this link saying a Cagiva impellar will work - looks like it has larger fins - a good thing I guess but does it clear? I am guessing so?
[/quote]No it's just got the Cagiva brand name on it, mine has it too. No aftermarket avaliable as far as I know.
[/quote]

OK - what does Prim want to hit you for a new one?
[/quote]R341
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: BiG DoM on November 14, 2013, 10:19:16 am


Not entirely clear but is this link saying a Cagiva impellar will work - looks like it has larger fins - a good thing I guess but does it clear? I am guessing so?
No it's just got the Cagiva brand name on it, mine has it too. No aftermarket avaliable as far as I know.
[/quote]

OK - what does Prim want to hit you for a new one?
[/quote]R341

If getting stuff from Halls maybe worth seeing what they want for their high flow impeller?
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: alanB on November 14, 2013, 10:42:17 am
Hell only saw this now!

FWIW if you didnt notice the water boiling (which is difficult to miss due to it spraying out the cap etc), then I dont think you have an issue.

If the water didnt boil then it didnt get that hot.

TK's fan burnt out after a wire got caught in it, he only noticed a few rides later in Dewildt that his fan wasnt working, and we had been on quite a few techical rides before that.  

I think these engines are quite resistant to overheating.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 14, 2013, 10:50:48 am
Hell only saw this now!

FWIW if you didnt notice the water boiling (which is difficult to miss due to it spraying out the cap etc), then I dont think you have an issue.

If the water didnt boil then it didnt get that hot.

TK's fan burnt out after a wire got caught in it, he only noticed a few rides later in Dewildt that his fan wasnt working, and we had been on quite a few techical rides before that.  

I think these engines are quite resistant to overheating.
I think you are missing the point here.
The water in the radiator will be ambient, while the water in the motor is at boiling point.
The continuous flow of air over the same "volume" of water in the radiators will see to that.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: alanB on November 14, 2013, 11:17:13 am
Hell only saw this now!

FWIW if you didnt notice the water boiling (which is difficult to miss due to it spraying out the cap etc), then I dont think you have an issue.

If the water didnt boil then it didnt get that hot.

TK's fan burnt out after a wire got caught in it, he only noticed a few rides later in Dewildt that his fan wasnt working, and we had been on quite a few techical rides before that.  

I think these engines are quite resistant to overheating.
I think you are missing the point here.
The water in the radiator will be ambient, while the water in the motor is at boiling point.
The continuous flow of air over the same "volume" of water in the radiators will see to that.

Ja but the pressure in the system will rise regardless of where the water boils, so it should spray out when it exceeds the radaitor cap spring rating.
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 14, 2013, 11:34:25 am

Ja but the pressure in the system will rise regardless of where the water boils, so it should spray out when it exceeds the radaitor cap spring rating.

Hmm you have a point there.
 ;D
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 01:10:44 pm
The Husky will rise from my garage like a Phoenix, a silly impeller won't get in the way. Wrenching tonight can't wait  :3some:
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on November 14, 2013, 01:15:46 pm

Klink of jy die 610 met die 510 verwar. Die 610 is n average performance bike. Daai 54hp is op die crank gemeet: trek 20% af.

Biggest thing in the 610's favour is the fact that there are almost no alternatives to them..especially at their price!
Oh and that awesome 6th gear.

Quote
Wag net so 'n bietjie, die 54hp was wel op die krukas, maar toe power-up ons die bike, wat 'n GROOT verskil maak, sekerlik ten minste die 20% waarvan jy praat. So dan is ons weer op 54Hp op die agterwiel, maar dis net spekulasie. Het enige iemand al die 610 met P/U op 'n dyno gehad (met 'n gladde band, nie 'n knobbly nie, miskien 'n SM)

There are alternatives, for one the X-Challenge. but having said that I won't easily swop my 610 for another adv bike, it spins its wheel everywhere I go on dirt and goes fast enough on tar to overtake safely.
at the end of the day everything is an trade-off, the 610 hits the balance for me.
Hier is n 610 met Leo Vince op see vlak op agter wiel. Check the extra torque the pipe gives !
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a ...... the mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: HK on November 14, 2013, 01:39:50 pm
Leen my so lank jou Leo vince pyp
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: voorvel on November 14, 2013, 01:58:53 pm
The Husky will rise from my garage like a Phoenix, a silly impeller won't get in the way. Wrenching tonight can't wait  :3some:
hehe good one
 O0
Title: Re: Metal bits in the oil ..... sorted ...... the 610 mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: HK on November 14, 2013, 04:19:58 pm
The Husky will rise from my garage like a Phoenix, a silly impeller won't get in the way. Wrenching tonight can't wait  :3some:



I must say Sidetrack's bike pulls really strong , I believe its better to know every inch of your bike , so what better way of learning it than to spend some wrench time on it   :3some:s

Nee regtig Sidetrack jy het n great fiets  , ons gaan nog great rides doen met die husky's   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ..the mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: Straatkat on November 15, 2013, 11:52:30 am
Sidetrack, dankie vir die dyno resultate, sien hoe lieg die vervaardigers, amper soveel soos 'n Yamaha R6 speedo! :o
Bly jou Husky is weer aan die herstel, alles wat jy regmaak sal nie weer breek nie.
Eks in vir daai ride waarvan julle so spog!
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ..the mods continue -> WATERPUMP !
Post by: sidetrack on December 08, 2013, 07:34:14 pm
Sidetrack, dankie vir die dyno resultate, sien hoe lieg die vervaardigers, amper soveel soos 'n Yamaha R6 speedo! :o
Bly jou Husky is weer aan die herstel, alles wat jy regmaak sal nie weer breek nie.
Eks in vir daai ride waarvan julle so spog!
I have double checked everyhting - loctite on the impeller nut, torqued and loctite on the camshaft sprocket bolts. Bike is sitting at TDC just waiting for new bushes, gonna be fun to ride again  :ricky: Was a learning curve for me doing the cam chain on my own and I made some mistakes first time round, should have changed more parts when I did the camchain just to be sure. I would say anyone installing a new chain should replace the following as well :

- Cam chain guides
- Check impeller
- New waterpump gasket
- Rocker bushes
- Might as well change the cam bearings while you are at it
- Most read valves gets damaged by a stretched chain, not sure if the valve needs replacing as well ?
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived
Post by: sidetrack on December 22, 2013, 11:47:14 am
Pressed the new bushes into the rockers using the vice. Bit fiddly, you can buy the complete unit rockers and bushes for about R1500-00. Bushes only is about R200-00 for four.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: HK on December 22, 2013, 01:58:15 pm
Great man so nou kan jy weer gaan explore !!


Jy raak nou n Husky expert !
Title: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: HK on December 22, 2013, 01:58:16 pm
Is hy darem nou bietjie stiller ?
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: sidetrack on December 22, 2013, 02:26:30 pm
Een aand het ek hom gestart en hy was so stil soos XRL125, so minuut daarna toe begin hy weer tik. Weet nie hoe ek dit reggekry het nie ! Hy is verseker beter en ek vertrou alles is nou reg. Hulle is nogal gevoelig vir valve clearance ook. Ek het myne op 0.05mm. Blazes hardloop 0.04mm op syne so dalk nog iets om te probeer vir later.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: HK on December 22, 2013, 02:41:51 pm
Ek dink hy is nou reg !! Kom bietjie uit die garage uit en gaan ry 😄
Title: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: HK on December 22, 2013, 02:43:17 pm
Doen bietjie daai Zeerust roete ( eendag roete) jy sal dit geniet baie mooi scenery en die husky ry hom lekker
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: sidetrack on December 22, 2013, 02:43:23 pm
Ek dink hy is nou reg !! Kom bietjie uit die garage uit en gaan ry
Want to go to Sabie but no one wants to join  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: HK on December 22, 2013, 02:45:31 pm
Ek sal maar na die 1 ste
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived in time for Xmas
Post by: HK on December 22, 2013, 02:46:59 pm
Kom ons neem wolskaap bietjie op ons tiepe ride !! Laat hy biet twyfel in daai Honds kry 😄
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610
Post by: sidetrack on December 27, 2013, 10:57:12 am
Thinking of spoiling myself with an IMS tank, I have not yet needed the extra range but you never know plus I reckon with time the aftermarket parts for the carb only 2006 and 2007 models may start to become scarce. Should be about R3000-00 landed.

http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php?products_id=304 (http://justgastanks.com/product_info.php?products_id=304)

Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610
Post by: BiG DoM on December 27, 2013, 01:44:15 pm
Think it is going to cost you a bit more than that - tank is about R2500, shipping R600-R700 then PLUS VAT and some handling fees ... this is if you get it right to quote the right customs tariff code so as not to pay import duty. Still not bad all things considered with our present exchange rates. Look on e-Bay as well.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on December 31, 2013, 09:28:01 pm
I have decided to use my iphone as a GPS on the bike. The phone is expensive so it needs to be protected as much as possible. I made an extra bracket that attached to the standard instrument cluster and gets support from the top triple clamp bolts. Not Dakar quality but it will do, plenty sturdy. I have an Otterbox 2600, it is rugged but far too big and bulky. They also make a Armor model which looks promising. Underneath the bracket I will connect a 5VDC convertor with female USB plug to power the phone. Navigation wise I will use either Google Earth or GPS Kit.

https://itunes.apple.com/za/app/gps-kit-offline-gps-tracker/id287909017?mt=8
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on December 31, 2013, 09:30:27 pm
Actual Iphone size
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: BiG DoM on December 31, 2013, 10:32:31 pm
Inventive move! I would be tempted to make a whole new alu plate that still accommodates the speedo and ignition plus i-Phone but moves it up a bit higher and more vertical. One reason is I find the present position hard to read with the cables in the way and the ignition position is a PIA. Thinking of doing this to my scoot anyway.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on December 31, 2013, 10:41:58 pm
Inventive move! I would be tempted to make a whole new alu plate that still accommodates the speedo and ignition plus i-Phone but moves it up a bit higher and more vertical. One reason is I find the present position hard to read with the cables in the way and the ignition position is a PIA. Thinking of doing this to my scoot anyway.
Yes as long as it is supported at the front as well. The stock steel one is fine but bolting an extra 100mm piece to it makes it flimsy. Alanb had a nice setup made for his LED conversion which bolts to the handy threads on the bottom triple clamp (wonder what they are for ?). The angle you mentioned will also aid in removing glare and add contrast in bright sunlight. Just need an app to block work related calls when riding  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: BiG DoM on December 31, 2013, 10:54:15 pm
Inventive move! I would be tempted to make a whole new alu plate that still accommodates the speedo and ignition plus i-Phone but moves it up a bit higher and more vertical. One reason is I find the present position hard to read with the cables in the way and the ignition position is a PIA. Thinking of doing this to my scoot anyway.
Yes as long as it is supported at the front as well. The stock steel one is fine but bolting an extra 100mm piece to it makes it flimsy. Alanb had a nice setup made for his LED conversion which bolts to the handy threads on the bottom triple clamp (wonder what they are for ?). The angle you mentioned will also aid in removing glare and add contrast in bright sunlight. Just need an app to block work related calls when riding  :biggrin:

Ja this makes sense - a kind of triangulation would certainly add support. I also have a Dakar screen that I like attached to a 630 light fairing that could do with some additional bracing ... you got me scheming again ...  ::)
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on January 01, 2014, 01:06:07 am
Alan what would this setup cost ? I will still be using the stock speedometer and headlight but also need the extra space up top as per your setup, the angle is perfect to  :thumleft:

Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: alanB on January 01, 2014, 01:44:30 pm
Alan what would this setup cost ? I will still be using the stock speedometer and headlight but also need the extra space up top as per your setup, the angle is perfect to  :thumleft:



Hi

I'm in Hazyview at the momement posting on a iPhone.

Can't remember the exact price to get those things laser cut but it was about R300-400 in total maybe less.

I have the cad files if you want them. But can only get them to you on e I get back on the 6th.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on January 01, 2014, 09:29:35 pm
Alan what would this setup cost ? I will still be using the stock speedometer and headlight but also need the extra space up top as per your setup, the angle is perfect to  :thumleft:



Hi

I'm in Hazyview at the momement posting on a iPhone.

Can't remember the exact price to get those things laser cut but it was about R300-400 in total maybe less.

I have the cad files if you want them. But can only get them to you on e I get back on the 6th.
Hi, thanks will be in contact when you get back. Would apreciate the cad file, will just need to change the faceplate to accept the stock speedo. Also would like to see how you mounted the headlight mask to the bracket. I ordered a 5vdc step down usb plug from overseas and will take some time to get here.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on January 04, 2014, 02:39:25 pm
Some lekker riding yesterday
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->i Husky<-
Post by: sidetrack on January 04, 2014, 09:29:33 pm
Alan what would this setup cost ? I will still be using the stock speedometer and headlight but also need the extra space up top as per your setup, the angle is perfect to  :thumleft:



Hi

I'm in Hazyview at the momement posting on a iPhone.

Can't remember the exact price to get those things laser cut but it was about R300-400 in total maybe less.

I have the cad files if you want them. But can only get them to you on e I get back on the 6th.
Hi Alan

E-mailed my ideas to you  :thumleft:
Title: Project 110W
Post by: sidetrack on January 11, 2014, 09:39:41 pm
 :patch:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: BiG DoM on January 12, 2014, 06:13:16 am
Someone going for the DIY double Baja light look?! Real overkill IMHO unless you are actually racing at night but maybe with regular headlight globes could be fun but more to break  ::). A genuine Baja Design La Paz 8" double will cost you $1000 in HID ... I have a single on my HP2 (scored it a few years back in USA and did the HID myself) and is awesome  :o



Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 08:53:27 am
Single
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 08:54:12 am
Double
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 08:54:32 am
Triple  :o
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 08:54:52 am
.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 12:33:28 pm
Someone going for the DIY double Baja light look?! Real overkill IMHO unless you are actually racing at night but maybe with regular headlight globes could be fun but more to break  ::). A genuine Baja Design La Paz 8" double will cost you $1000 in HID ... I have a single on my HP2 (scored it a few years back in USA and did the HID myself) and is awesome  :o




Mine cost me R720, had the Hella lights for a while now and made the rest myself from bits I had around. Ag just keeping myself busy, planning to go Alan's route with the alu setup but saw that one round light without a surround would look silly. Decided to give this a go. Setup for the open dirt road for sure. Will run one for dims and the other for brights.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: wolf skaap on January 12, 2014, 01:31:06 pm
Alle bietjies help om die voorwiel op die grond te probeer hou ne?
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 01:53:59 pm
Rough idea. The whole setup weighs 2.5kg, yes you can feel it on the bars  :P
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: BiG DoM on January 12, 2014, 02:45:17 pm
Can call her Springkaan  :lol8:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: HK on January 12, 2014, 03:18:30 pm
Lyk sweet man 👍, well done
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 12, 2014, 05:36:53 pm
Lyk sweet man , well done
Thanks, het gaan ry en die gewig op die bars is nogal opvallend.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: wolf skaap on January 12, 2014, 08:48:37 pm
(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=128417.0;attach=329199;image)
Ek sal nou nie meer voor kan ry nie; daai spots sal my rooi honda pink verbleik.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: alanB on January 13, 2014, 03:27:29 pm
Rough idea. The whole setup weighs 2.5kg, yes you can feel it on the bars  :P

What brackets did you use in the end?

Must admit I'm a minimalist type of person so those big lights look a bit overkill for me, but you wont have trouble seeing at night, that's for sure  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: BiG DoM on January 13, 2014, 09:45:31 pm
A single can make a scoot look gnarly  :ricky:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 14, 2014, 07:25:13 am
Rough idea. The whole setup weighs 2.5kg, yes you can feel it on the bars  :P

What brackets did you use in the end?

Must admit I'm a minimalist type of person so those big lights look a bit overkill for me, but you wont have trouble seeing at night, that's for sure  :thumleft:
Yip the weight was too much so I took them off again, made my own bracket.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: sidetrack on January 14, 2014, 07:25:49 am
A single can make a scoot look gnarly  :ricky:
That 1980's front mudguard looks ugly though  ;D
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: BiG DoM on January 14, 2014, 07:29:57 am
A single can make a scoot look gnarly  :ricky:
That 1980's front mudguard looks ugly though  ;D

Ja but useful in the snow and ice - we have no idea how guys go trail riding in winter there! They fit studded 'screw' tires and go for it properly in proper snow and ice.  :ricky:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: alanB on January 14, 2014, 09:27:07 am
Rough idea. The whole setup weighs 2.5kg, yes you can feel it on the bars  :P

What brackets did you use in the end?

Must admit I'm a minimalist type of person so those big lights look a bit overkill for me, but you wont have trouble seeing at night, that's for sure  :thumleft:
Yip the weight was too much so I took them off again, made my own bracket.

So you didnt use either of the brackets I sent through?

Would like to see what you did in the end.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: chopperpilot on April 29, 2016, 03:27:35 pm
Sub! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Metal bits in oil screen
Post by: chopperpilot on April 29, 2016, 03:38:33 pm
I just had my local engineering shop make up the washers for me, using EN8 steel, I asked him to radius the corners and make then twice as thick as the originals. I also got him to make the rivets. I think the whole lot cost me R150.00 or something like that, I even used the same clutch cover gasket. Since then I have had no issues with the clutch. 
Were the rivets done RR? :thumleft:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: chopperpilot on April 30, 2016, 09:29:27 am
I just had my local engineering shop make up the washers for me, using EN8 steel, I asked him to radius the corners and make then twice as thick as the originals. I also got him to make the rivets. I think the whole lot cost me R150.00 or something like that, I even used the same clutch cover gasket. Since then I have had no issues with the clutch. 
Were the rivets done RR? :thumleft:
Still learning the TE's mechanical, but suppose one has to drill out the rivets, to replace the cup washers, and redo the rivers.👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: Rough Rider on April 30, 2016, 02:53:12 pm
I just had my local engineering shop make up the washers for me, using EN8 steel, I asked him to radius the corners and make then twice as thick as the originals. I also got him to make the rivets. I think the whole lot cost me R150.00 or something like that, I even used the same clutch cover gasket. Since then I have had no issues with the clutch. 
Were the rivets done RR? :thumleft:
Still learning the TE's mechanical, but suppose one has to drill out the rivets, to replace the cup washers, and redo the rivers.👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yip; you drill the original rivets out and replace them with new rivets.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: BiG DoM on May 01, 2016, 12:42:38 am
I got the washers through the guy on CH and OEM rivets. Got a local brake and clutch shop to do the drilling and riveting as they have a pneumatic machine etc. One can also DIY and use a peel hammer on the rivets.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: Straatkat on May 03, 2016, 07:46:40 pm
Are you guys talking about the clutch washers?
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: BiG DoM on May 04, 2016, 05:41:37 am
Are you guys talking about the clutch washers?

Ja  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived
Post by: Alphat on May 04, 2016, 08:37:14 am
Pressed the new bushes into the rockers using the vice. Bit fiddly, you can buy the complete unit rockers and bushes for about R1500-00. Bushes only is about R200-00 for four.

Hey sidetrack, I know it was a while ago now but where did you get the rocker arm bushes? I need to do mine too.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 ->
Post by: Straatkat on May 04, 2016, 09:52:58 am
Are you guys talking about the clutch washers?

Ja  :thumleft:

When you guys replace those washers just be sure to polish the ends of the cut-outs in the gear as those holes are sheared out and the edges are very rough....eating up the OE washers. On my bike some of the edges were smoother than others, and some washers were totally destroyed while others still seemed fine! It is a lottle shoddy on the part of the manufacturer if you ask me.
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived
Post by: sidetrack on May 04, 2016, 06:45:50 pm
Pressed the new bushes into the rockers using the vice. Bit fiddly, you can buy the complete unit rockers and bushes for about R1500-00. Bushes only is about R200-00 for four.

Hey sidetrack, I know it was a while ago now but where did you get the rocker arm bushes? I need to do mine too.
From Primrose if I remember correctly
Title: Re: Sidetracks not so boring life with a TE610 - Parts arrived
Post by: Alphat on May 05, 2016, 01:46:07 pm
Pressed the new bushes into the rockers using the vice. Bit fiddly, you can buy the complete unit rockers and bushes for about R1500-00. Bushes only is about R200-00 for four.

Hey sidetrack, I know it was a while ago now but where did you get the rocker arm bushes? I need to do mine too.
From Primrose if I remember correctly

Thanks sidetrack.
Got hold of Primrose and they unfortunately don't do Husky spares anymore  :( Going through ASAP instead.