Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => Topic started by: Three Dawg on July 09, 2015, 11:50:15 pm

Title: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 09, 2015, 11:50:15 pm
Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's fifth trip to southern Africa may take a little time to put up here as there are quite a few pictures to sort and upload but I will at least make a start  now.

As a taster, here are a few pics and a rough map of the planned ten week route.

The route:  First, ride bike from Scotland to London and put bike on plane to sunny Cape Town, one of my very favourite places.  Then from SA head north to Namibia, Zambia and Tanzania.  Then south to Malawi, Zimbabwe and back to SA.  Luvverly!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/samap.jpg)

The aged adventurers:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230110.jpg)

The aged bike (a 1997 1100GS owned for the last six or seven years):

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220086.jpg)

Camping (at their age?):

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220092.jpg)

Glamping!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5180370.jpg)

Agony:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5070300.jpg)

Ecstacy:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030205.jpg)

People:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030146.jpg)

Animals:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030058.jpg)

And stuff...

Now all I need is some time and a decent broadband connection, both of which are conspicuous by their absence.  Bear with... :biggrin:



Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on July 10, 2015, 02:21:02 am
Ooh, this is going to be good!

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: edgy on July 10, 2015, 03:14:15 am
I'm in......
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: 4 Kays on July 10, 2015, 05:39:42 am
In on this one  :sip:

With an intro like this you have my attention  :spitcoffee:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: VaalBaas on July 10, 2015, 05:56:16 am
Nice one.  You left little space on the bike though, but I am on.  :thumleft:


Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Kenzogs on July 10, 2015, 05:59:01 am
 :happy1: :coffee2:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Duster on July 10, 2015, 06:14:32 am
Ek kuier en ry saam..... :coffee2:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Mev Vis Arend on July 10, 2015, 07:01:24 am
 :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: edgy on July 10, 2015, 07:21:20 am
Ek kuier en ry saam..... :coffee2:

That will make plenty sense to our British visitors! :lol8:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: 0012 on July 10, 2015, 07:37:06 am
 :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: corne.l on July 10, 2015, 07:50:13 am
 :happy1:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Judge Dredd on July 10, 2015, 07:54:45 am
 :happy1:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Morph on July 10, 2015, 07:55:01 am
I'm  :ricky: with!!
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Rooikoos on July 10, 2015, 09:17:42 am
 :happy1: :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Man from Nam on July 10, 2015, 10:19:00 am
Can't wait, this is going to be a good rr :happy1:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Bretto on July 10, 2015, 10:52:13 am
Long for the ride too ;D
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: JonW on July 10, 2015, 11:49:47 am
Awesome taster  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 10, 2015, 01:01:44 pm
OK, so we'll just rewind to the start then.  As I mentioned this is our fifth visit to Africa, the past four being much shorter trips on rental bikes- on one trip we got as far as the Caprivi and northern Botswana.   We always wanted to go further north though, and to not have the stress of looking after someone else's expensive motorcycle.  So after selling our business in October we were happily able to commit to shipping the GS to Cape Town in April to do just that.

The bike was pretty much ready to go- she's a reliable old bus- so after a problem free shakedown run down to Spain in October there was little to do other than get the rear shock serviced (I've got Wilbers both ends) and have a heavier spring fitted and of course give the bike a full service.

Motofreight near London Heathrow took care of crating the bike up and organising putting the bike on a plane, they even washed the thing for me.  I just left it and the carnet with them and the next time I saw the bike (about ten days later) it was at Econo Trans in Paarden Eiland.  Easier than renting, and if you're away for more than about four weeks, cheaper!

She'll never be this clean again.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P3210009small.jpg)

Crating at Mototrans (highly recommended BTW.)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4030219.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4030224.jpg)

And that's it, ready to go.  We flew BA, the bike went with Virgin.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4030231.jpg)

All we had to do when we picked the bike up (Econo Trans had already uncrated it) was put the rack and a mirror back on, sign a form, collect our carnet and that was it.  So easy.  Again, the service we recieved was superb- talk to Adrian Schultz at Econo Trans if you need to ship something.

A little light spanner work...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020498.jpg)

And we're good to go.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020502.jpg)

As a shakedown we did a run down to Chapman's Peak, as featured in half the car commercials ever made.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020521v2.jpg)

I'd already planned to head up to Namibia via the Cederberg, but when I spotted Sweetie Pie's invitation to the spitbraai at the Cederberg Oasis we decided that we had to go.  And we are really glad we did!


Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: woody1 on July 10, 2015, 01:19:08 pm
 :ricky:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Noneking on July 10, 2015, 03:03:26 pm
Why are we waiting?? :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: popipants on July 10, 2015, 03:06:59 pm
that is the cleanest 1100 I've ever seen.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: BFG on July 10, 2015, 03:09:17 pm
Looking forward to this one :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: ERJ on July 10, 2015, 03:33:21 pm
 :happy1: :happy1:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Casting from Turd on July 10, 2015, 06:23:03 pm
Yep. I am going to follow this one
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 10, 2015, 06:44:46 pm
Cape Town to the Cederberg Oasis.  Tracks4Africa GPS mapping.  Outstanding.  Most on here will be using it I'm sure, but if anyone outside Africa is contemplating a similar trip and is reading this, buy it for your Garmin.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/CPTtoOasis.jpg)

"A spitbraai?" said Mrs 3D, "What's that going to be like?"  Well, I answered, I guess it's a rally with added meat.  "A rally?  You mean a bunch of old farts sitting around, drinking beer and talking about bikes"  Yes.  er...NO!  There will be ladies present, and eventually most of the blokes will get bored of talking bikes and we'll get on to less interesting things current affairs, business matters and relationships.  (this is a lie, of course, but I wasn't about to let on)  And we'll have our first two nights in a tent surrounded by like minded souls.  

So that was Mrs 3D on board for the spitbraai.  And didn't she have a great time?  I barely saw her in the evenings as she was yapping to all the lovely people we met and telling anyone who'd listen that I was the greatest GS pilot in history.  OK, I'm making that last bit up... :biggrin:

The Gydo pass outside Ceres

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020527.jpg)

Happy campers

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020556.jpg)

Gerritt (sp?) cooking up a storm.  Well he did, even if the meat is out of shot...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020554.jpg)

We went up to the Tankwa Padstal via the Katbakkies pass.  Great ride, although our trip was nearly ended by an errant Triumph overshooting a corner.  Fortunately we both dived right and no harm was done.  We did hear of an Italian couple who ended up in a didch and were injured on their way to the spitbraai.  Hope it wasn't too serious.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180039_1.jpg)

Marieta, Morne and Jakobus (I think, apologies I have a terrible memory for important stuff) at the padstal.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020541.jpg)

Gotta love an Africa Twin, and here were two!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180042_1.jpg)

Two KLRs waiting patiently in the hot sun...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180037.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180045.jpg)

On the road back to the Oasis

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180050.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180033.jpg)



Happy days.  It was great to be made to feel so welcome.  And even the jokes told in Africaans seemed funny after enough beer had been drunk. :biggrin:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020563.jpg)

The stars were absolutely amazing at the Oasis- there was no moon.   Unfortunately I didn't manage to capture anything like their brilliance.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4180057.jpg)

Altus and Simone and their zebrafied 1150.  You guys rock!  See you in 2017 I hope.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020566.jpg)

Thanks to Gerritt and Chantal for a great bash and everyone we met, it was a great way to kick off the trip.



Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: gwild on July 11, 2015, 07:26:36 am
Dont keep us in suspense we want more  :peepwall:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Judge Dredd on July 11, 2015, 08:05:47 am
 :blob9:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: lj111 on July 11, 2015, 08:10:29 am
 :sip:
 
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 11, 2015, 05:32:06 pm
After leaving the Oasis on Sunday we headed north through Algeria to Clanwilliam heading to our overnight in Springbok.  Nice run through the hills and then along the Olifants river on the opposite side to the N7.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/oasistospring.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020570.jpg)

Gassed up at Clanwilliam for the long haul up the N7.  Damn near didn't make it to Springbok- fuel pump was whining as we pulled in to town running on fumes.  The town was suffering a power cut which was much more than the usual load shedding nonsense, it had been out for 24 hours or more.  We dined by candle light.  How romantic.

The next day we crossed the border at Vioolsdrift.  Very quiet and straightforward.  Chatted to a couple on a 1200 travelling fast and light.  140kmh on sand standing on the pegs two up?  Respect!

Just a short run to our first stop in Namibia, Norotshama River Resort, which has nice chalets and camping on the Orange/Gariep River.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4200062.jpg)

The next day promised much, a ride through the Richtersveld National Park then north to Helmeringhausen.  It was great to be riding in Namibia again, the gravel there is fun without being too much for a heavily laden GS and the scenery is just stunning.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/norottohelmer.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020582.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4210077.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020587.jpg)

Fuel in Aus

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020601.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020602.jpg)

Not all gravel sadly.  I think this was a road built for the trucks going to the mine at Rosh Pinah.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020599_1.jpg)

When we got to the hotel in Helmenringhausen we ran into a bunch of photography enthusiasts from New Zealand.  It didn't take long to find a connection between one of the group and someone we knew in NZ (Mrs 3D is a Kiwi)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020609.jpg)

Dinner was very fresh

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020611.jpg)











Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: GRAVELTRAVEL on July 11, 2015, 10:30:38 pm
If you do get to Walvisbay let me know. I have accommodation of required.

Let me know! Would like to meet you

Martin

martin@dormac.net or +264811412390
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on July 11, 2015, 10:41:42 pm
Classic stuff, thanks.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 12, 2015, 07:51:02 am
Quote
If you do get to Walvisbay let me know. I have accommodation of required.

Hi Martin

Home now unfortunately.  But I'll be back! :ricky:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 12, 2015, 10:58:19 pm
Uuurg, bloody dinged my tank refuelling in Helmeringhausen.  This doesn't often happen to GSs of course because they mostly land on their cylinder heads, but I missed my footing next to a gas pump which was mounted on a plinth.  Ho hum.  These nice guys helped get the thing off my leg...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020615_1.jpg)

Anyway, off to Solitaire.  We saw a lot of wildlife on the way, including some impressive gemsbok.  There seems to be more fencing in Namibia since I was last there, and the animals are forced to run alongside or in front of you until there is a gap.  Unless you are the one who ran straight into the fence flat out, did a summersault and landed flat on his back on the other side.  Made me laugh, and the beast seemed OK.

Damn, those horns look sharp! :o

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020620.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/gemsbok.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220086_1.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220088.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220092.jpg)

Good campsite at Solitaire Guest Farm.  Separate ablution block a luxury, and an amazing view.  These donkey boilers work amazingly well.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230098_1.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220096.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4220095_1.jpg)

Went up the Spreetshoogte pass.  Some of it surprisingly was paved, but still a stoating ride.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230101.jpg)

This was taken by the German ambassador to Zambia.  He invited us to stay at the 'German Residence' in Lusaka.  Good job I packed my dinner jacket...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230110.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230112.jpg)

Solitaire apple pie.  Nice, but where's the custard???

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230115.jpg)

Pie Girl gets hers.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4230116.jpg)









Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 13, 2015, 07:35:53 pm
Off next to Swakopmund.  Kinda wished we hadn't decided on three nights there, but it was OK.  Mrs 3D got some time in the saddle riding a quad on the dunes.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4240121.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4240125_1.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4240122.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4240127.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4250134.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4260137.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4260145.jpg)

The gold is buried here somewhere...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4260153.jpg)

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Judge Dredd on July 13, 2015, 08:24:02 pm
Awesome!
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Jondu on July 13, 2015, 08:45:27 pm
sub
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: BradT on July 16, 2015, 03:08:36 pm
Brilliant thanks for sharing.  I look forward to the updates.  :happy1:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 16, 2015, 07:41:12 pm
Right, topped up the coffee and sugar supplies in Swak, now heading north.  Or at least we would be IF I'D REMEMBERED TO CHECK THE BLOODY ROOM SAFE  >:(  Yep, 50km up the coast I patted where my money belt should have been and AAAARGH!  And it was freezing, and it was a long way to our overnight in Kalmanjab.  What a berk...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/kalmanjab.jpg)

Anyway, we passed by the ship and shortly afterwards turned inland, the temperature rising with every kilometer we moved away from the coast.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020681.jpg)

The ride was pretty straightforward through a landscape that looked about as hostile to humans as it's possible to get,  people survive but it looked a bit desperate.

If you're up that way, Alpec Bush Camp just outside Kalmanjab is a pretty decent place to stay.  There is a warning on the gate about not taking any responsibility for, well, anything.  So when I fell off at the camp entrance in a sand hole trapping my ankle under the bike at the end of a pretty shitty 2km track I couldn't complain, could I? ::)   Anyway, some brawny lads appeared and lifted the bike up while I tried to regain my composure.  Gotta love Sidi Adventures, reckon they did their job well.  My foot was sore, but nothing broken.  

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020683.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020684.jpg)

They've gone through some Jaegermeister over the last wee while...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020686.jpg)

Mrs 3D couldn't wait for the barman, so helped herself.  Typical.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020691.jpg)

The following day my foot had swelled up nicely, so I had to adjust the straps on my boot, but once done up felt OK.  Heading north through Kaokoland towards the Kunene river it felt as though we were starting to get remote, even by Namibian standards.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020736.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/kunene%20river.jpg)

However, the road was pretty good, even if north of the bustling town of Opuwo we saw virtually no traffic.  Gassing up in Opuwo, we were immediately surrounded by Himba and Herero people trying to sell us stuff, and it was clear that any attempt at un paid for photography was a no-no, so Mrs 3D was reduced to trying to snap pics on the way out of town.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020704.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020715.jpg)

I used my Desert Fox fuel bladder for the first time on this road.  Great piece of kit, carried four or five litres, which with the 350km you can go on a tank gives a range that is good enough for most situations.  When I wasn't using it I folded it up and stuck it in the pannier 'beavertail'

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020720.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5070304.jpg)

Anyway, it was all going along fine, until we reached this:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020726.jpg)

OK, no bridge, tons of sand on the other side and it's stinking hot. What to do?  I had visions of completely unloading the bike and walking it through, but while we were scouting up and down for a better place to ford the river,  some youngsters appeared and told me I could cross about 500m upstream- there were tracks everywhere, so this wasn't obvious.  Anyway, they led us to a spot where we could cross- loads of deep sand but against all the odds I managed to ride it, with a bit of help in the form of some pushing from the larger lads.  They then showed us the way back to the road.  Damn though, it was hot.

Our rescuers/guides

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020728_1.jpg)

I fished around in my pocket and found about eight dollars and pressed it into the hand of the lad lad who had been doing the talking.  He looked at it and mumbled something about twenty being better.  Cheeky little bugger, but I found some more and told hime to share it with the others.  He'll go far, that one. :biggrin:

Once we reached the turnoff to Kunene River Lodge we had to start working hard again- some very steep rocky sections there- or so it seemed on the GS- but I just stayed off the clutch and drove her up and it felt good.  I may be learning how to handle the bike on tough sections!.  When we got to the lodge I had one of the most enjoyable beers in my life.  

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020730.jpg)

Our pitch, right on the river with Angola on the other side.  Angola!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4290164.jpg)





 







 

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: BMBob on July 17, 2015, 06:15:01 am
Enjoying the RR.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Voetpomp on July 17, 2015, 01:49:30 pm
Respect!!

Thx for the share, keep it coming :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: spoedvark on July 17, 2015, 07:39:39 pm
Subscribed!

Enjoying  :ricky: with you!

SPOED  :snorting:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: evansv on July 17, 2015, 08:41:55 pm
 :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 18, 2015, 07:50:43 pm
Ran into some of the 4 x 4 mob we met at Kalmanjab at Kunene.  They dished out a couple of ice cold beers from their onboard fridge to refresh us as we pitched the tent.  Cheers!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020765.jpg)

The sunsets over the river were lovely, and there were a good mix of people, including this bloke....

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030123.jpg)

I'd spotted the KTM logo on the back of his 4x4 rig so naturally asked if he rode.  No, came the answer, but my brother in law competes on them.  Oh yes, and who would your brother in law be then?  Alfie Cox, as it happens. ;D  Hi Kevin!

If you are staying up that way I can recommend doing a rafting trip on the river.  There are some pretty decent rapids and once through them it is very pleasant paddling along.  The start point was 10km upriver along a sandy track.  I tried not to think of doing it on the GS in a couple of days.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/DSC04196.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/DSC04170.jpg)

As most will know, the Himba are the indiginous people in the area and the lodge offered a trip to see a Himba family.  I was a little unsure about this as I kind of feel like we'd be gawping at them in their stone age lives, but the lodge owner told us that they'd been working with this family for thirteen years and it was well worth doing.  OK, we'll give it a go.

There were only six of us, one family from Holland and ourselves, a perfect number, with a guide from the lodge.  The family we visited were very relaxed and we were shown how they live, some of their important posessions and told about their lives.  It was a fantastic experience.  Some of the pictures are a bit blurry, but worth a look anyway, I think.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4300171.jpg) 

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4300172.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020810.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020789.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020811.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020832.jpg)

When we got back we joined the lodge owner for a spot of monkey paintballing. ;D

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P4300200.jpg)

The lodge owners told us of a couple of guys on 1200Gs (Italians, I think) who set off towards Epupa from Kunene River Lodge.  One of them had a bad fall and broke his leg.  The other guy had no chioce and left his mate and both the bikes and walked back to the lodge.  Which took about a day and a half.  By the time rescue could be organised the guy with the broken leg had been on the ground for three days.  Local Himbas brought him water, but it must have been unbelievably uncomfortable.  He was brought back to the lodge in a bakkie, and in the mean time some South Africans arrived who went up to where the bikes had been abandoned and rode them back.  Wonder if the guy with the broken leg ever got back on a bike..?  :o





Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Poena on July 19, 2015, 09:30:56 am
Nice, enjoy reading it
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on July 20, 2015, 01:02:04 am
Great ride you two are having, we really enjoyed the Kunene RL when we were there a year ago.

Thanks for sharing.

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: The Badger on July 20, 2015, 06:00:57 pm
Well done and thanks for a superb RR  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Crossed-up on July 20, 2015, 06:16:49 pm
That poor guy with the broken leg!

Enjoying your report. Thanks.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Hinksding on July 20, 2015, 10:00:36 pm
Go Geezah!
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: adamktm on July 20, 2015, 10:02:41 pm
Sub  :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 21, 2015, 07:41:59 pm
Cheers lads, glad you're enjoying it.  I realise it may be a bit short on derring-do, but I suppose it shows that you can do a tour and the touristy safari stuff on a bike without having to resort ot a 4x4.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/etosha.jpg)

Anyway, we were sorry to leave Kunene, and I was even sorrier that we had to ride the shitbox road out to Ruacana, picturesque though it was.  There was more sand than I am comfortable with, including a nasty section where the road was washed out and we had to cross a small river upstream.  Still, we managed to get through everything, although I suspect it wasn't too pretty to look at sometimes.  That was, until I dumped it in spactacular fashion in the only puddle in northern Namibia.  I saw the damn thing under a tree and though I'd given it enough leeway, but the back wheel slipped down its steep side and over we went, catching my sore ankle again. >:( >:( >:(  I've fallen off various GSs several times and never hurt myself once, but that was twice now I did my ankle in, and I reckon the culprit was the extension plates for the pillion pegs which came with the racks.  I can't be sure, but they're coming off anyway.

The bike was a bit bent this time, with the right hand bar sticking up at a jaunty angle and the cylinder head protector mashed, but a little muscle applied using the plug spanner as a lever got things more or less straight.  Not a trick I'd like to try with an alloy bar, I suspect it would have broken.  The most galling thing was that the road improved hugely immediately after the puddle...

Anyway, that may explain why I didn't take any photos on the way to Etosha, although apart from the huge number of shebeens (The Fly Emirates bar or the BBC Entertainment bar anyone?) there wasn't much to see.  After an overnight stop at Ondangwa (the Airport Lodge, not a bad place to overnight) we reached our next three night stop, Onguma Tamboti Camp at Etosha.

Now this is a great campsite.  Each pitch has it's own kitchen and ablutions and the main building is very pleasant.  They have a small shop and do food.  Best of all there is a stoep where you can sit with a cold one watching the animals at the water hole.  It's about 2km down a track by the C38 Namutoni entrance to the park.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5030218.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5030217.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5030248.jpg)

We did a sundowner, of course.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5030236.jpg)

Etosha is a fine park, and we were lucky enough to be the only people on our drive.

Great to see both black and white rhino in one day.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030058.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030037_1.jpg)

Good few ellies around, this one came pretty close.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5040294.jpg)

This little fella looked quite cuddly...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5040258.jpg)

Not many lions about, but we saw this male.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020913.jpg)

And of course plenty of antelope, giraffes and other stuff.  

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Optimusprime on July 22, 2015, 09:15:27 am
Awesome RR Guys - miss you. Thanks for sharing & see you soon(ish)

 :snorting:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: keithk on July 22, 2015, 11:36:26 am
Thoroughly enjoying this report with the great pics Thank you for sharing, I am hoping to head out in that general direction next month . Keep it rolling I like the route you travelled as well.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 23, 2015, 07:31:06 pm
Going to fast forward a little to get to Zambia.  The run from Etosha to Rundu was pretty dull.  Man, that B8 road is straight, tarmac too.  Bor-ring!  Stayed at Kaisosi River Lodge, which was fine, and ran into Kevin (Alfie C's brother in law) again which was great.  Had a meal that would have defeated even the most dedicated trencherman and drank too much.  Excellent.   Rundu is a hole- security at the gas stations was something I hadn't seen before but we needed to break the journey to the Caprivi.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/divundu.jpg)

Aah, now this is more like it.  Nunda River Lodge near Divundu is a great place to camp.  We stayed there on a previous trip and it was still brilliant.  The last time we fell off on the sandy tweespoor (or twaspoor as my GPS voice has it) leadign to the lodge, but this time no problems.  I must finally be learning something about riding on sand! ;D  We just loafed about here for a couple of nights.  No bad thing given the state of my ankle.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5070306.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5070300.jpg)

Mrs 3D likes sunsets

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5070310.jpg)

On the way out we attracted a crowd while I reinflated the front tyre.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030146.jpg)

Our next stop was Katima Mulilo so that we could tackle the easier of the two borders into Zambia, the other being Kazungula.  Having ridden past the 5km long queue of trucks there I was keen to avoid the ferry crossing.  The Caprivi strip has lots of signs warning of ellies.  Last time we saw none, but this time, hey, what's that on the hoirizon..?

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030148.jpg)

Reckon I counted about 3 dozen.  What a treat!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030161.jpg)

Aha!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030163.jpg)

Another rather odd lodge in Katima.  Had the feeling of a place that had seen better days.  The chalets were a symphony in wood.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5080311.jpg)

The owner warned us that we were heading into 'deepest darkest Africa' where chaos rules and nothing works.  He was, of course, a dickhead.

Tomorrow, Zambia. :thumleft:

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: NoRush on July 23, 2015, 10:47:06 pm
Following with interest.
 :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: subie on July 24, 2015, 07:37:07 am
Pooooost, pics, stoooorrry  . Come on   :lol8:
 :ricky:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Oupa Foe-rie on July 24, 2015, 09:03:00 am
Whow Mr and Mrs 3 D .............. Nice report with story and photos...........  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Vis Arend on July 24, 2015, 09:28:24 am
Pooooost, pics, stoooorrry  . Come on   :lol8:
 :ricky:

+1   :biggrin:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Pilchie on July 24, 2015, 04:10:15 pm
 :lamer:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 24, 2015, 06:12:46 pm
 :thumleft:  Well despite our host's warning, the border at Katima Mulilo was a piece of cake.  Changed some money pretty quickly at a reasonable rate (I think) and completed just about everything in one room- immigration, carnet, insurance, road tax and ebola check.  Thought we'd aced it in an hour when we got stopped at the gate by a friendly soldier who pointed out that we'd missed some bit of paper.  He wasn't too bothered, but warned us that a picky policeman may use it as an excuse for a fine.  One wierd thing was the number of UK registered vehicles in the compound, including a furniture removals van from Sheffield.   ???  

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/Kapishya.jpg)

Next stop: Livingstone.  This was supposed to just be a staging post on the trip as we'd already seen the falls from the Zim side on a previous trip, but it actually provided one of the absolute highlights of the trip, and motorcycles weren't involved at all!

I was expecting the road to be a mess, but it was quiet and mostly in good shape and we made good time to our camp.  We did go out towards the falls and got a couple of pics, but really you need to be on the other side.

Or...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030174.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030178.jpg)

...UP IN A MICROLIGHT!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5100320.jpg)

Mrs 3D was a little unsure about these things, but the look on her face at the end of the flight says it all, I think.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/IMG_0516.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/IMG_0536.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/IMG_0562.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030205.jpg)

Oh yes, more fun than a fast lap of Silverstone on a Panagale.  This really was properly amazing.  The view over the falls was fabulous of course, but we were low enough to see ellies, hippos and crocs on the islands in the Zambezi.  And like a bike, being out in the open made it all so much more real.  Wonder how much one of those things costs? :biggrin:

After Livingstone we headed north for a forgettable night in Lusaka.  THANK YOU Tracks4Africa for getting me through that city...  We went right past the 'German Residence' but didn't have the bottle to call in on our ambassador friend.

Naturally we saw some truck based carnage on the way, but only had to leave the road once to avoid a head on collision. :biggrin:  This one was right in the centre of a small town.  Truck was going for a left turn coming down a hill too fast, with predictable results.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030216.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030215.jpg)

I'd seen in TV a documentary on ballooning (as in hot air) a place called The Africa House at Shiwa Ng'andu, an Italianate manor built around 1920 which I was really keen to visit.  Anyway, nearby is Kapishya Hot Springs, a lodge with a campsite.  Seemed like a good place to break the journey to the Tanzanian border and soak our aching bones.

The road into Kapishya was great after a lot of tarmac, and we saw a full grown male sable, not a beast I'd seen before.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030227.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150363.jpg)

And after 32km, the hot springs and a campsite by another river.  Very nice, but we didn't know what we had camped upon, did we? :o

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5140322.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5140326.jpg)








Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on July 25, 2015, 10:27:01 pm
Great stuff, really like the Microlite flight idea.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 26, 2015, 12:19:48 pm
Groan!  Just lost an entire page.  Oh well...

Anyway, we got on well with the owners of Kapishya, so much so that a bottle of Chivas Regal was produced with predictable results.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030257.jpg)

We staggered off to our tent far too late in the evening to sleep it off.  Until we were woken at about four in the morning by what sounded like insects in the tent.  Couldn't see anything, so tried to settle down again, but the noise was still there.  Mrs 3D lifted up her inflatable mattress to find thousands of red ants underneath!  Where the hell had they come from, and OW! they bite.  We tried, and failed, to get rid of them- you can't even squash 'em, so we had to bail out and sleep on the floor of the lapa that sheltered the kitchen area.

At daybreak we went back to the tent to try and clear it.  We had inadvertantly pitched over a nest and the ants had come up and bored staright through the groundsheet, and were nibbling away at Mrs 3D's mattress.  In Europe we don't have critters like this!  I thought that my biggest problem camping in Africa would be spiders the size of my hand and scorpions in my boots, not commie ants.  The groundsheet looked like someone had shot it with a 12 bore.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030228.jpg)

This was where the corner of the tent was.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030229.jpg)

The ground sheet was in a bad way, but fortunately Mark, the lodge owner (him with the droopy eye in the pic at the top) got someone to patch it up for us. It wasn't pretty, but it would do.

We relocated to a safer spot after a thorough inspection of the pitch.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150364.jpg)

Drama over, we made arrangements to go and see Shiwa Ng'andu.  It's an extrordinary place, especially given its remote location.  Built by Sir Stewart Gore-Brown around 1920 it is still owned by the same family (Mark's brother) who are restoring it after it fell into disrepair after Mark's parents were murdered during a botched robbery in Lusaka.  This is the Wiki entry, it's interesting stuff. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiwa_Ngandu (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shiwa_Ngandu)

We were given a guided tour by Mark's sister in law, Jo.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150334.jpg)

The chapel

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150330.jpg)

Library

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150347.jpg)

Dining room

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150340.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150337.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150358.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5150349.jpg)

Back at Kapishya a group of 4x4 types arrived in a nine vehicle convoy.  Their leader, Alex, parked near us so we got talking.  Turns out he was taking his group to the Serengeti through the Tunduma border post, which was the same one as were were going to use.  So Alex, what's the border like then?  Absolutely terrible, he replied.  Gulp!  But we have a good fixer- ask for MP, or you can tag along with us.  Sounds good, but we're staying at a place about 70km short of the border the night before we cross.  Turns out so were they, and also there was no food at the mission run camp.  But being hospitable people they invited us to join them for dinner.  Sorted, and thank you!

Alex, who was a colonel in the SA forces, cooking up a storm.  Not a bloke given to taking much nonsense from anyone, I suspect.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030265.jpg)

So the next night we joined the happy campers for chicken piri-piri a la Alex, and at 5am the next morning were off to tackle Tunduma.  Up until now I found the roads in Zambia generally in pretty good shape.  This one wasn't.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/p1030269-resized-1024.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030271.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/sumbawanga.jpg)

The Tunduma/Nakonde border was a riot.  It's on the main route from Dar es Salaam to Zambia, so there are loads and loads of trucks trying to get through- a huge number of which are fuel tankers.  We stuck with the group and MP did his stuff.  Getting the carnets done took ages, but in the meantime MP went off to sort our insurance.  It took about 4 hours to get through the whole thing, although part of this was because there were so many carnets to do.  After we finished with the border we said goodbye to Alex and the rest and turned north to the town of Sumbawanga.

One of these people is not dressed for queuing in the sun...

(http://)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030276.jpg)

What I would like to know is, why, when I edit these pics in Photobucket then check 'replace original photo' and save the edits don't save.  It's driving me mental. >:(



Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Noneking on July 26, 2015, 03:55:43 pm
Enjoying this one, thank you!
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 26, 2015, 11:15:31 pm
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/kipili.jpg)

Getting out of Tunduma was a mission, but once clear of the town the road improved dramatically, thanks to the Americans who built (or paid for) the road and put up lots of signs to remind us of their generosity. You could make great progress down this road towards Sumbawanga if it wasn't for the villages every 8kms and their attendant speed humps.  

But it was better than what lay ahead...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030277.jpg)

After an interesting night in Sumbawanga- there was something a bit Hemminway-esque about the bar  at the Forest Way Country Club, at least in my fevered imagination we continued north to Kipili on Lake Tanganyika.

about 4kms out of Sumbawanga the Yank tarmac stops and the roadworks start with the usual shitty diversions.  At least it wasn't wet.   Eventually we turned west towards the lake through delightful countryside, although the road was a pain.  Not technical, just very rocky, so the bike was being shaken to pieces.  This was the second and last time I used my fuel cell.  I love a full tank...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030280.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030282.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030284.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030287.jpg)

After hours of banging down this crap track and a couple of police checkpoints, we reached Kipili on Lake Tanganyika.  It didn't look half bad...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5180370.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5180371.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5180373.jpg)
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 27, 2015, 09:17:34 pm
Kipili is a great place to rest up for a while.  The campsite unfortunately is not right on the water, but it ain't far away.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5190376.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5200014.jpg)

A surprise was this ruined church- built by the White Fathers around 1880.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5200008.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5200009.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5200010.jpg)

The lodge din't have many guests, and most of those were NGO types.  Nice work if you can get it.  The NGOs were doing good work in the DRC across the water, but weren't exactly roughing it during their time off in their luxury rooms.  We loafed around, paddled on the lake in canoes and drank beer.  The lake is lovely, and bilharzia free, a good place to unwind for a while.  I had hoped to see the MV Liemba, but it was being used to ship refugees from some trouble up in Burundi.  There was a dock for the boat just down from the church, but unfortunately no one had checked the draught of the ship and, er, it couldn't pull up close enough to tie up.  TIA eh?  There were also a couple of water ambulances there, tied up and useless because no one knew how to run them and there were no medics anyway.  Someone had nicked the motors too...  What a waste of seventy thousand US.

After three pleasant nights we headed back to Sumbawanga.  I had inflated the front tyre fully because of the rocks and potholes, but the bike handled really badly.  3psi lower and it was much better.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030378.jpg)

The hotel in Sumbawanga (whose name I forget) had a very posh and echo-y marble hall, but normal service was resumed in the rooms. ;D

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5210020.jpg)

Back towards the border the following day we bumped along the speed humps before fighting through the traffic in Tunduma towards Mbeya, our overnight stop before the border into Malawi at Songwe.  It was crazy, but fun.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030418.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030415.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/tund1.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/tund3.jpg)








Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on July 29, 2015, 06:26:26 pm
(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/hakuna.jpg)

W had a night in a rather odd hotel in Mbeya- the room had no windows- where we shared a drink with character who insisted his name was James Bond.  I don't think 007 would do as well with the ladies if he smelled like this bloke though...

Once clear of Mbeya the following morning we climbed up into the mountains which were very lush- this was the first time I'd ever seen a tea plantation.  The road was a real treat, in good shape and not too many animals or people on it.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030419.jpg)

We were heading for the border with Malawi at Songwe.  Pretty quiet, changed some US at a bureau de change and was given a wad of Malawian Kwatcha about an inch thick.  Their biggest denomenation seems to be a 1000 kwatcha note, which at about 460 to the dollar really isn't enough.  Insurance was obtained from an office nearby and we were off.  To the roadblock capital of Africa.

We had about 100km to go to Chitemba and hit 10 police roadblocks.  Most waved us through, but not all, and one even asked for our insurance.  Good job we didn't skip that bit.  The road that runs south along the lake is very pleasant, with mountains to one side and the lake to the other.  But the main thing that strikes you is the vast number of people on the road, about 50% of whom are aged between 7 and 12 years.  You absolutely cannot relax for a second because of the people, goats, pics, cyclists and traffic, so we trundled slowly on staying as near to the middle of the road as possible.

This amused us- I suppose most people have heard of Tesco- it's a huge supermarket chain here in the UK, the biggest player in the market.  Bet their lawyers haven't seen this.  And if they do, LEAVE THEM ALONE, IT'S JUST A BIT OF FUN YOU CORPORATE DORKS!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030437.jpg)

Eventualy we got to our camp at Chitemba.  It was in a lovely spot, but a bit hippyish and run down for my taste.  The guy running it was a lazy arse who just shouted for his local lady cook if anything needed doing.

However, it was right on the beach.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030442.jpg)

After a misunderstanding over breakfast- yes we'd like some- we got away two hours later than planned.  These kids outside the gate were fun.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030475.jpg)

I would have loved to ride up to Livingstonia, but apparently the road was in terrible shape and I really didn't want to crunch my ankle again.  Maybe next time.  





Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: NoRush on July 30, 2015, 09:57:37 pm
Great RR. Thank you.. :ricky:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: MillionMiles on July 31, 2015, 02:59:59 pm
Better late than never. This should be an interesting read.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 01, 2015, 06:23:28 pm
It's funny, I don't have many pictures of Malawi at all.  After being delayed by the pillock who ran the camp at Chitimba and knowing we had a pretty long day ahead I just wanted to keep moving and not stop for photos.  Oh well.

We stayed on the main M1 road south, which wound up into the mountains in the direction of Mzuzu.  This was a real treat with plenty of opportunities to get some wear onto the side of the tyres.  At one point we found ourself on immaculate tarmac threading through a very neatly kept rubber plantation.  There were few people on the road here apart from some youngsters trying to sell big balls of rubber.  Soon though, we were back among the pedestrian traffic,  made worse by the fact that it was Sunday and lots of people were strolling along on their way to church.  

Anyway, it was lovely run and the clouds that looked like rain didn't, and eventually we ended up back down on the coast at Ngala Beach Lodge near Nkhotakota.  The campsite there is very pleasant, situated as it is in a shady area very near the beach.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030506.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5250032.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030511.jpg)

On our second night, one of those big overland trucks showed up.  They kept themselves to themselves pretty much on the first evening, but most made it to the bar on the second.  It was amusing to see the oldsters sitting at the bar (with us, the managers and a hippy dude canoing the lake) getting hammered, while the young 'uns sipped sodas and went to bed early. ::)

The morning after.  Coffee on the beach.  Luvverly.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030502.jpg)

Onwards to Lilongwe.  I think we need to come back to Malawi to do it some justice, it's a beautiful country, and I suspect that there is a lot more to it than the lake.  Needed fuel and pulled in for gas, but none available, apart from some stupendously overpriced stuff from a dude in shades.  It was still cheaper than at home and only five litres.  Don't think the trip would have been complete without buying black market fuel at some stage.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030517.jpg)

Lilongwe.  Meh, just an overnight at some backpackers.  Full of smug kids doing 'good works'.  We did meet a guy from Cape Town who was cycling home from London, and had the beard to prove it.  He was cheerful and happy doing it the hard way.  On the other hand, this thing

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5280047.jpg)

was parked up ready to do battle with Africa.  I cannot imagine a worse way to see Africa than from one of these- the couple who were in it literally looked down on us from their eyrie- and I would reckon generate absolutely the wrong sort of reaction wherever they go.

Mrs 3D got the Lurgi in Lilongwe, bad news as we needed to cross back into Zambia the following day to get to South Luangwa NP.  Oh dear.







Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 04, 2015, 10:00:20 pm
Back into Zambia and  Mrs 3D still feeling well below par, but we have to move on.  The border at Chipata was problem free, with a bonus in that we met another rider (going into Malawi) on a 1200 Adventure.  He was the first we'd seen since Swak, and was making his way north to thank some people who had got him out of a tight spot when he lunched his bike (and himself) in the back of beyond on a previous trip. 

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/sthluangwa.jpg)

Back in Zambia it was very noticable how few people were walking along the road, which was generally excellent tarmac- just what was needed given Mrs 3D's fragile state.  We were heading for The Wildlife Camp just outside South Luangwa NP and apart from 6km of sandy track to get into the camp it was an easy day.

We set up camp on next to the river not far away from a pod of hippos.  To get to the main part of the camp you had to walk along the river bank, something we were told was forbidden after dusk- they come and get you in a vehicle if you need to go to the restaurant.  There is a good reason for this, the camp is crawling with animals....

First morning an ellie wandered through...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5290049.jpg)

We, ahem, tracked it as it went through the camp

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5290054.jpg)

We were near the office using the wifi when I looked up and saw this wandering through:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030546.jpg)

Over the river these two were loafing around on the bank

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030534.jpg)

Small, er , things...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030590.jpg)

And big, just below our tent.  Hippos come up into the camp at night, their footprints were clear to see. :o

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P5290064.jpg)

On the second day a convoy of 4x4s roared in to our part of the camp, clearly hoping to bag spots on the river, but oh dear, all taken.  So they laagered right between us and the ablutions making us feel more than a little crowded out.  Funny how the guy in charge of these things can set the tone.  This one (unlike Alex who was leading the mob we went through the border with) marched up and announced that they would be using our braai (better be careful of the tent then, cautioned Mrs 3D) and then cracked open the first of many beers.  He just didn't stop drinking.  Anyway, they were a bunch of noisy inconsiderate gits who got a tongue lashing from Mrs 3D when they woke us at 5 in the morning to leave.  May a thousand thorns puncture their tyres and baboons shit in their tents. >:(

Unfortunately we were with these clowns on a game drive into the park.  They walked to the main reception to make sure they got the front seats, while we waited (as instructed) for the vehicle to come to us.  Never mind, South Luangwa is a lovely park, and we got our first ever leopard sightings.   :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030634.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030679.jpg)

After South Luangwa we had to make our way back to Lusaka, with an interesting night at a place called Bridge Camp.  Man alive, the people in charge there have problems, mostly due to uncontrolled alcohol consumption.  Which is a shame, as it's in a lovely spot looking out over a river to Mozambique and the accommodation was first class, as was the breakfast.

Back in Lusaka we stayed in Eureka Camp, which was in a pretty handy spot, but a bit run down.  We did however, meet a couple of Brits travelling south.  They'd flown their Katooms into Addis Abbaba and were heading for Capetown via Namibia.  I don't think Mrs 3D would accept the saddle on one of those things, but they looked the business to me.  Anyway, we had a great evening drinking fizzy yellow beer with them.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030700.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030699.jpg)

We had looked into crossing into Mozambique and getting back to SA that way, but the information we had said that visas were no longer available at the border.  No way was I going to spend a day in Lilongwe getting one, so we decided to give Zimbabwe a try.

There are a couple of borders we could have used from Lusaka, but crossing the Kariba dam sounded cool, so that's what we did.  The Zambian border was dead as a doornail, so once a customs official could be found we were through easily enough.  On the Zim side the immigration facilities were housed  (if that's the word) in a M*A*S*H style tent that was about 45 degrees inside.  Man it was hot.  Mrs 3D tried to sneak in under the wire by presenting her NZ passport for a visa (about 20 US cheaper than the one for Brits) but as she'd been stamped out of Zambia on her Brit passport they refused.  Again, the border was very quiet, so after a long chat with a young Tourist policeman we were in, destination Lake Kariba and the very wonderful Karribea Bay hotel.

It's pink!

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030709.jpg)

The holel (80 rooms) was nearly empty, which is a damn shame as it's in a fantastic position overlooking the lake, but that didn't seem to bother the staff who were cheerful and helpful from start to finish.  Withing about an hour just about all the staff had sussed out we were the two mzungus on the bike and were greeting us by name.  Highly recommended. 

Heading south the next day towards Harare you can see what a brilliant job of running the country is being done by the geriatric bonehead in charge.  Farms lie abandoned with their buildings rotting, and nothing much seems to be growing in the fields apart from the odd patch of maize, although in fairness it was, of course, after the harvest.  The state of the country is brought into sharp focus when you compare the vibrant and prosperous capital of Zambia with the bust up gentility of Harare.  Zimbabwe's capital was clearly once a lovely place, but now the rot has set in good and proper.  Naturally there was no power when we rolled in to town, and the whole place looked bust up with shattered pavements, wonky, rusty lamp posts and all the rest, but the tree lined streets spoke of a more gracious past, at least for the wealthier (read white) residents.  Anyway, after a bit of faffing around we managed to find our lodging somewhere out near the race course without getting flattened at any of the junctions with non working traffic lights.  Fortunately they had a whopping great generator to ensure the beer was kept cool.

We were joined for dinner by a Russian oligarch from Siberia and his cameraman who came from Pretoria.  The oligarch was over for a 'safari' (one where they must have been expecting trouble, as he had brought all his guns ::)) and the cameraman was there to film the thing for posterity.  This was a regular job for the cameraman he made no bones about toasting his client during the meal.  Nasdrovia!








Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Optimusprime on August 05, 2015, 05:45:59 pm
Top RR Geeza  :lol8: :snorting: :sip:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 05, 2015, 08:04:47 pm
Ta.  Hey, guess what turned up at my place today?  A clue:  It's big, black and covered in African dust.  Am I gonna wash it?  Not a chance! ;D
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Skim on August 05, 2015, 08:34:21 pm
Really Nice - thanks for sharing !
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Warren Ellwood on August 06, 2015, 02:15:32 pm
Friggin awesome RR.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Optimusprime on August 06, 2015, 09:26:27 pm
Ta.  Hey, guess what turned up at my place today?  A clue:  It's big, black and covered in African dust.  Am I gonna wash it?  Not a chance! ;D

What!? How did you manage to smuggle a house-and groundkeeper in from Zim, hanging unto the wheel of the plane?
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Noneking on August 06, 2015, 10:05:46 pm
Awesome RR :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 06, 2015, 11:35:14 pm
Quote
What!? How did you manage to smuggle a house-and groundkeeper in from Zim, hanging unto the wheel of the plane?

I wouldn't subject any African to the weather we've had this last month.  How does 195% of the normal rain fall in July grab ya? :(
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Casting from Turd on August 07, 2015, 06:54:20 am
Ta.  Hey, guess what turned up at my place today?  A clue:  It's big, black and covered in African dust.  Am I gonna wash it?  Not a chance! ;D

What!? How did you manage to smuggle a house-and groundkeeper in from Zim, hanging unto the wheel of the plane?

 :spitcoffee:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: 2Swerve on August 07, 2015, 03:27:37 pm
Awesome report! Im following it with great interest....and envy. Thks for the effort and sharing with us what we all dream about!
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Optimusprime on August 07, 2015, 06:45:48 pm
Quote
What!? How did you manage to smuggle a house-and groundkeeper in from Zim, hanging unto the wheel of the plane?

I wouldn't subject any African to the weather we've had this last month.  How does 195% of the normal rain fall in July grab ya? :(

I still think back to the Africa2up RR when you came outside and saw the bike has been washed 😁. Pass some of the rain on to us, we're in need of some downpour, since we had very little rain this year and rather top temperatures for 'winter'
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 08, 2015, 02:58:18 pm
Ah, yes, the over helpful gardener.

Next morning I mosey out to the bike which, much to my surprise, sits gleaming on the driveway in a puddle of water.  :o Yep, the gardener had taken into his head to wash off something like 10000km of accumulated (and very cool looking) dust and grime.  Now I look like I just arrived, not what I wanted at all.  Oh well, he was only trying to help, I suppose.

Anyway, next stop Great Zimbabwe.  Some of the traffic lights were actually working in the centre of Harare, and Tracks4Africa took me straight out and put me on the right road without a hitch.

Not far from where we were due to stop near Great Zimbabwe (GZ) we got stopped at a roadblock.  Normally not a problem, but the young copper in charge wanted to see some cross border permit, which I didn't have.  I could tell he sensed an opportunity for a fine and made us park up by the side of the road, although after a rowdy and cheerful exchange between us and a minibus full of local guys he looked as though he knew he was losing the situation.  Anyway, I think he was after some bit of paper which maybe travellers who don't need carnets get, so I produced my carnet and showed him the stamp from Kariba.  That seemed to satisfy him with no loss of face, so off we went.

For about 300m, when we got busted for 'speeding'

Before I'd even killed the motor Mrs 3D had jumped off and begun arguing with the guy with the radar gun.  Not possible to be doing 77km/h (in a 60) so soon after setting off she said.  Are you saying that this large motorcycle is not capable of that?  replied the plod with a smile, fingering his fine book.  (me: thinks, yep perfectly capable, but I don't think I'll join in just now)  Then suddenly something changed and the cop asked where we were from.  Scotland! replied Mrs 3D.  Ah, said the cop, I thought so, I could tell by your accent!  (as I said before, Mrs 3D is from New Zealand and I am English)  Well, we weren't going to correct his take on things and he decided at that point to let us off.  Hooray!  Or should that be Hoots!

Anyway, that encounter was typical and any animosity that Uncle Bob feels towards the UK doesn't seem to have filtered down to the people on the ground- everyone we dealt with was friendly and polite, and I wouldn't hesitate to go back there.

We stayed at a good campsite about 5km from GZ called Norma Jeane's.  The main house is a lovely colonial style homestead which was built by a man of Scottish descent called Murray MacDougal who was involved in the building of the dam nearby.  This place is a little oasis with beautiful gardens and great food.  Oh, and marble tiled ablutions, probably among the best I've ever seen.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050150.jpg)

The Lake- not Scotland...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030758.jpg)

We rode up to GZ and were able to dump our stuff at reception, you do not want to walk around that place in bike boots clutching a lid.  Everything looked tidy and well kept- I suppose they make sure of that given its UNESCO status.  We hired a guide to show us round, a young chap who was on placement from university where he was studying anthropology.  He was very knowledgable and I hope it works out for him.

Our guide using a cave to reflect his voice over the valley.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050124.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050116.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050120.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050132.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030741.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050139.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050141.jpg)

Yep, well worth seeing.  Great Zimbabwe means Great Big Stone House.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6050136.jpg)

  

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Rotten on August 08, 2015, 04:41:42 pm
Awesome trip. Inspiring. Great RR. Can't wait for the next episode.
Many thanks
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Wooly Bugger on August 10, 2015, 09:08:36 am
great RR and awesome pics!
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 11, 2015, 09:47:59 pm
We spent some time at Norma Jeane's with a couple of New Zealand girls who were touring around in a 4x4.  They had come through Beitbridge and had been royally fleeced.  They were nice girls, but perhaps not the most, er, worldly.  Anyway, we were heading down that way, overnighting at the Lion and Elephant.   It was noticable as we got closer to the border how much crap there was everywhere along the road and all the seats and tables in the rest areas were bust up, but I suppose it is a very busy road that takes some hammering.  There were a vast number of massively overloaded bakkies and trailers heading north, and lots of packed busses thundering along.  Blimey, and this lot goes through Beitbridge, no wonder it has a fearsome reputation...

Saddo that I am, I collect pictures of my bike at old petrol stations- this at The Lion and Elephant.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/P6060158.jpg)

In the bar of the L&E we talked to a Zim couple who had been robbed at gunpoint nearby when they were heading south to see family in SA.  They stopped in a layby for a pee, probably a mistake.  Sounded scary, but they seemed pretty relaxed about it.  Funny thing was, they said that as a result there were loads of roadblocks between the L&E and the border, but we saw none.  I can't believe that they were making it up, but...

So in the morning we headed off to Beitbridge, ready for the worst.  Well, bit of an anti climax in a way- no roadblocks, no problems, no nothing.  We got through both sides in under two hours.  Easy peasy, although on the other side it looked a bit mad.  Entering SA was like stepping in an instant from the third to the first world, an amazing difference.  Ran into this Aussie guy (Mark) who had been travelling for some time and was heading to Livingstone to work for a while.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030768.jpg)

At a gas station we ran into a father and daughter on an F800 who knew of a biker friendly place to stay in Polokwane- The Devenish Guest House.  Better still, they were heading down there and would take us right to the door.  Thanks Skul, it was a great recommendation. 

We'd decided to head down to Dullstroom for the next night, and the owner of the Devenish (who had a Goldwing, I think) recommended we headed down through the Verwoerd tunnels which was a great runthrough some beautiful scenery.  I know we were near the Blyde River canyon, but we have ridden that before.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030773.jpg)

I like Dullstroom, it reminds me of a place called Tekapo in New Zealand.  We found a shop with a massive selection of rare malts (I mean epic, and I live in Scotland!) while we were looking for somewhere to stay, but they were so snotty we didn't bother.  Much better was a place off the main street- you'd want to be because of the trucks going through using their engine brakes- which was recommended by a the owner of a nice looking restaurant called the Art of Food.  Anglers Court - super secure parking, quiet and dead central.  Oh, and The Art of Food was very good, although don't go there if you want a kilo of steak and a mountain of fries...

Anyway, by now we'd decided to cut across country rather than go down the coast- pity, as I would have liked to go back to Warner Beach which is near where I used to live in Kingsburgh (sp?)  We stopped again at Little Switzerland, which was a bit quiet compared to last time, and the awesome buffet (7 courses!) was closed which was a damn shame, but the views of the Drakensburg were as magnificent as we remembered.  And the zebras are still there...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6100165.jpg)





Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 14, 2015, 07:04:22 pm
Right, time to wrap this up.  From Little Switzerland we backtracked a little and then headed down through The Golden Gate Park to Zastron.  There was no internet at Little Switzerland so we were relying on finding something along the way using the GPS.  It showed up a place called The Highlands Guest House in Zastron that was quite pleasant and offered up a good steak dinner.  It was really starting to get cold by now, even felt like a little snow was on the way.

Our luggage load was lightened a bit as we zipped in the linings for our jackets that we hadn't needed for the rest of the trip and pushed on to Graaf Rienet where we stayed with a woman who had once been engaged to PW Botha.  She broke it off, but there were newspaper cuttings all over the place with pictures of the happy couple!  I wanted to have one last decent gravel ride and reckoned the Swartberg Pass near Oudshoorn would be just the job.  We stopped in a village called Willowmore at a cafe cum antiques shop.  Great cheesecake there.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030788.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030790.jpg)

Arriving in Oudshoorn we found a decent place near the town centre - Gumtree Lodge- for a couple of nights, and rode the Swartberg Pass the following day.  What a lovely ride that was.  We had lunch in Prince Albert and then looped back round via the Meiringspoort and De Rust.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6130167.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030819.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030827.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030834.jpg)

The owners of the Gumtree recommended that we took the back road to Calitzdorp the next day en route to Montague.  What a lovely road that is.  You go up towards the Swartberg pass and then turn off onto a beautiful gravel road that leads straight to the centre of Calitzdorp.  Sad to be on the last bit of gravel, but a good way to go out, I suppose.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/calitz.jpg)

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030837.jpg)

Naturally we had to make a stop here, although I seem to remember getting a free drink at The Country Pumpkin just down the road last time we passed through...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P6140175.jpg)

Oh Lord, I wish we hadn't stayed in Montague for two nights.  Nothing wrong with the place at all, but when we set off for Cape Town we could see something really nasty in the way of weather coming our way.  Now I've ridden through some shite in my time, but the rain was just biblical and the wind was howling, so everything sprayed up by the trucks went straight at us like insult being added to injury.  It was properly scary, and I wished the Hugenot tunnel went all the way to Camps bay.  If we'd got there a day earlier we could have just sat out the storm in comfort.  Still, nearly 10 weeks without rain I suppose we can't complain- if you manage 10 hours up here in the Highlands you're doing well.

 Ah, Camps Bay.  I love it there, and the manager of the place (who owned a GPZ1100) we stayed upgraded us, so we basically had the entire top floor of the building to ourselves.  For all of fifty quid, which wouldn't buy you anything here in the UK.  It was a great place to swig a bottle of bubbly with Altus and Simone who schlepped all the way from Durbanville to help us celebrate the end of the journey.

50..!  A tank of fuel for a GS is about 25 quid.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030888.jpg)

Slap up meal with Altus and Simone.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030882.jpg)

The next day we picked went down to Paarden Eiland to drop the bike off with Econo Trans.  Had to take a few bits off and drain the tank, but they took care of everything else.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1030902.jpg)

And that was it, next stop Edinburgh and my brother's place in the Scottish Borders.   :(

About 5 weeks later the bike was delivered direct to my door.  An oil and filter change, check the valves (still fine) and the balance of the throttle bodies (ditto) and she's good to go again.  In fact, with very close to 50000 miles on the clock I would say it's running better than ever.  What a machine- at 18 years old it's still utterly reliable and feels like it will run forever.

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P8050232.jpg)

I don't suppose this trip would amount to a hill of beans in some circles, but I think it shows that it is possible to travel around Africa on a bike and still do normal African holiday things like game watching.  The camping (29 days) was great fun- apart from the commie ants- and all the gear, especially the Mosko panniers and the Mitas E-07 tyres which worked a treat.  At no point was anyone less than friendly (although one or two pissed up lodge owners need to take a good look at themselves),  we met loads of great people, including all the Dogs at the Oasis spitbraai, the borders were a laugh and most of the lodges and camp sites were very pleasant indeed.  I have no problems with the driving (although GP drivers in SUVs are a bit of a menace ::)) and I think I may even have learned a thing or two about riding in sand.  I wish we could have done the whole trip we planned- right around Lake Victoria- but maybe that will be our next trip.

Question is, why isn't everyone doing it?  Africa?  It's a bit mad, but it's definitely brilliant. :biggrin:

Total distance (in Africa) 13200km.  Breakdowns: 0.  Spills: 2 minor, 2 that hurt (but no bones broken).  Problems and annoyances: 0.

PS Kevin (Alfie Cox's brother in law) who we met at Kunene has got himself a bike now.  A KTM perhaps? ;)

PPS  Pooratech/KLR alert- very useful (near essential actually)  'accessory' - an ice hockey puck attached to a string loop to put under the side stand.  Stopped the bike trying to flip itself over every time I got off it...

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/Africa%202015/P1020523.jpg)







Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Carnivore on August 14, 2015, 07:57:09 pm
Thanks, Laddie, and lang may yer lum reek.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Optimusprime on August 16, 2015, 10:27:12 am
Awesome read. Thanks for the wonderful memories. See you soon.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on August 16, 2015, 12:28:11 pm
Great RR!! :thumleft:

Why is the heel of your right boot built up?

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: BMBob on August 16, 2015, 01:59:09 pm
Great RR! Thanks for sharing.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 16, 2015, 02:24:49 pm
Quote
Why is the heel of your right boot built up?

Blimey, what sharp eyes you have, Mr Wolf!  It's built up because I lost about 25mm off the length of my already meagre inseam buy crashing my lovely restored Z650 head on into a car. ::)  My thigh bone (along with quite a few others) was pretty mashed.  Apparently I'm lucky still to have a right leg at all, so mustn't grumble, but it means that all my right hand shoes have to be altered.  With my bike boots I just get the heel done (10mm inside and 10mm out) which makes walking in them OK.
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on August 16, 2015, 02:29:09 pm
Quote
Why is the heel of your right boot built up?

Blimey, what sharp eyes you have, Mr Wolf!  It's built up because I lost about 25mm off the length of my already meagre inseam buy crashing my lovely restored Z650 head on into a car. ::)  My thigh bone (along with quite a few others) was pretty mashed.  Apparently I'm lucky still to have a right leg at all, so mustn't grumble, but it means that all my right hand shoes have to be altered.  With my bike boots I just get the heel done (10mm inside and 10mm out) which makes walking in them OK.
Me wife says I see a pimple on her butt before it's even there!! :imaposer:
Well done and lucky dog to still ride with that leg. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 16, 2015, 03:26:04 pm
Quote
Well done and lucky dog to still ride with that leg.

Not riding was never an option.  Once I could get around without crutches I bought a bust up Laverda 180 to restore while I healed.  >:D  I'd always wanted one, and I figured that with the option of a left or right foot gearshift I'd be able to ride it come what may.  Turned out to be a nice bike in the end, but I sold it eventually as it only had two speeds: flat out and stop.  I bought the GS with the proceeds and had enough left over to do things like change the suspension and put silly lights on it.  I couldn't quite give up the Laverda thing though, and eventually scraped together enough to buy an ex South African RGS which I've restored over the last four years.

Good bike for a bloke with a gammy leg... :biggrin:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/LaveBay/ebay017PB.jpg)
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Welsh on August 16, 2015, 04:02:53 pm
Quote
Well done and lucky dog to still ride with that leg.

Not riding was never an option.  Once I could get around without crutches I bought a bust up Laverda 180 to restore while I healed.  >:D  I'd always wanted one, and I figured that with the option of a left or right foot gearshift I'd be able to ride it come what may.  Turned out to be a nice bike in the end, but I sold it eventually as it only had two speeds: flat out and stop.  I bought the GS with the proceeds and had enough left over to do things like change the suspension and put silly lights on it.  I couldn't quite give up the Laverda thing though, and eventually scraped together enough to buy an ex South African RGS which I've restored over the last four years.

Good bike for a bloke with a gammy leg... :biggrin:

(http://i648.photobucket.com/albums/uu209/ThreeDawg/LaveBay/ebay017PB.jpg)

3 Dog I have a need for one of those old 180's it goes back to a day in 1980 on the North Circular on the way to the Transatlantic Trophy at Brands Hatch with my modified GS750B (820 big bore etc), chasing two Jota's through the roundabouts, the howl of those flat crank triples on song still sends shivers up my neck... :biggrin: :biggrin: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on August 16, 2015, 04:24:34 pm
those flat crank
Explain that ol wise one?
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 16, 2015, 05:38:29 pm
Aye, they sure do sound nice on song.  BUT if you want them to sound absolutely right you need chrome steel pipes (these are available new) not stainless.  Wierd, innit?

My one had GSXR1100 wheels and brakes, RGS swingingarm, radial tyres, Brembo 4 pots, shortened forks with Racetech Gold Emulator valves, JE forged pistons, F1 (RGS) cams, Mikuni RS36 flatslides and an IIS ignition.  Made it a whole lot nicer to ride, but I'm still not sure that a wire wheel 3C isn't a better (softer?) overall package.  And you still get that glorious sound... ;D
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Welsh on August 16, 2015, 06:44:18 pm
those flat crank
Explain that ol wise one?

The engine it was based on was the 750S I think, it was a 750cc vertical twin, very pretty, so flat crank (two up) one up on firing stroke one up on exhaust, then some boys (importers) in the UK decided they wanted to race it so "we need a 1000cc" ok add one on so 2 up one down, the crank can still be forged in one plane, not like a 120 degree crank,(120 degree much more engineering), BUT the off tune 180 degree flat cranks make a noise that is totally different... it wails like a banshee  :biggrin: :biggrin:  

http://www.motorstown.com/images/laverda-750-formula-s-01.jpg (http://www.motorstown.com/images/laverda-750-formula-s-01.jpg)
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Three Dawg on August 16, 2015, 07:45:17 pm
Yeah, the first triple was partly based on the existing 750 twins- it had a SOHC and a 120 degree crank- but initial tests were disappointing so they went back to the drawing board and came up with a DOHC engine with a 180 (two up and one down) flat crank.  The flat crank was to get round the problem of the 120 crank's 'rocking couple' which made it shake like a bastard.  The 180 is actually quite smooth considering it's mounted direct in the frame, but the later 120s all have big rubber isloation bobbins to keep the vibes down.

The original 3C was a good bike, but the UK importers (Slater Bros.) immediately started tweaking the engine to give us the faster 3CE (E for England) and when the 3CL (L for leggera as in light [alloy wheels]) came out, a bigger collector box, straight through pipes, high compression pistons and lumpy cams gave us delirious punters the Jota.  They did the same for the 1200 to give us the Mirage, and they also engineered the Montjuic from the 500 twin.

And then Laverda messed it all up with dodgy cylinder heads and crappy cranks, but that is another story...
Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: Gbags on December 10, 2015, 09:14:44 pm
Wow 3D,

Cracking ride and report.

Title: Re: Mr and Mrs Three Dawg's African Adventure
Post by: MOGGIE on December 15, 2015, 04:00:16 pm
My goodness. Just got this RR just today.nice trip.
Unfortunately my wife is a Phisio and I will have to do it alone.
My 1200GSA WIL BE DELIVERED tomorrow, so nog net een slapie.