Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Technical Section => Make / Model Specific Discussions => Husqvarna => Topic started by: Archangel on August 05, 2016, 03:26:49 pm

Title: Archie's TE610 thread - Now for sale (R45k)
Post by: Archangel on August 05, 2016, 03:26:49 pm
So as you might have gathered, I got my grubby little paws on a '09 TE610.

I just thought it would be a good idea to keep all my mods, upgrades, repairs etc in one thread for easy future references.

This is where it all started...

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=130201.0;attach=479866;image)

From what I could gather, this bike was first owned by Great White and then by Bikoholic.

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=193390.0;attach=479907;image)

I don't know how to get the bike this clean again.  ???

So in the first week, I pick up a couple of things that irritated me...

1. I ran out of fuel twice without the fuel light coming on.
2. The gear lever was very low. I don't know how anybody could fit their foot underneath. Not to mention when wearing an MX boot. :-\
3. The bike was "sweating" oil from what appears to be the rubber through which you do the valve clearances.
4. I can't see anything in the mirrors.
5. Wind protection will be necessary when traveling longer distances... (I'm used to my 950 with touring screen)
6. Fuel consumption and range wasn't what I expected.

This will likely end up as being my "To do list" of things to fix.

Some mods that have already been done on this bike:
1. The front fender/mudguard was replaced. They're originally white.
2. LED spotlights fitted. A must if riding at night, as the headlight is crap.
3. Carbon Fibre covers made for the exhaust.
4. 630 side stand
5. Soft luggage racks (shown in the picture below)
6. Power Up Mod

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=184733.0;attach=452094;image)

Then I had this issue with the hole in my exhaust... (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=195124.0)

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=195124.0;attach=486515;image)

Which I had repaired.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/8b07075525041e38739879b4b97dea04.jpg)

I also fitted a new rear tyre (Metzeler Karoo 3) which I don't like very much. When I commute, I fit a (necessary evil) topbox as shown below...

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=130201.0;attach=480990;image)

I fitted some fold away mirrors which doesn't look particularly great, but at least now I can see behind me.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160803/8e71114debcf03529f653af9d0e62d9f.jpg)

I've made a mod to the gear lever (pics to follow) and I'm busy with the indicators and I've broken two of them while playing in the quarry.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on August 05, 2016, 08:25:41 pm
Congratulations. You are going to have to do the power-up as I see the Lambda ? sensor is still in play. That alone will give you 20+ % power increase, and clean out the exhaust at the same time, a straight through 50mm perforated pipe to replace the catalytic converter that chokes up the engine.
Title: Re:
Post by: Archangel on August 05, 2016, 09:14:14 pm
The Power Up is done, but the lambda is still in the pipe. It's unplugged and coiled up under the seat, but it left the sensor in the pipe due to lack of a better plug.

Looks like whoever did the mod, did the home made resistor setup to trick the bike into the desired mode, but I'm not sure...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on August 06, 2016, 06:58:54 am
Like this Straatkat!😉

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160806/cb557a33d1db1d0b63de6382f2378d9e.jpg)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on August 06, 2016, 06:59:43 am
Any JD Tuner fitted?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on August 07, 2016, 04:17:06 pm
Archie
I actua;lly got a proper plug from the agents for the power up, but a 2,2kOhm resistor does exactly the same, all it has to do is trick the ecu that the heater is still in place (it is 2,2kOhm), then you are in RACE mode, whoop whoop
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 07, 2016, 10:12:38 pm
Archie
I actua;lly got a proper plug from the agents for the power up, but a 2,2kOhm resistor does exactly the same, all it has to do is trick the ecu that the heater is still in place (it is 2,2kOhm), then you are in RACE mode, whoop whoop

Ja, I read about the whole thing somewhere. I'm keen to keep the actual sensor in place for now, as I'm not sure if/when I might need it.

Btw, this is what I'm doing with the indicators...

Before
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160807/11299c6a00fe431257f4a838989622e5.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160807/9ce5b58539dbb6b1d2f3d65fa441bd6b.jpg)

And now...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160807/e6705c0c874686a8640bf64bd5268577.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160807/dcb3292f76f4b538b484a30bb8ccb861.jpg)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on August 08, 2016, 03:23:44 pm
Yeah that makes sense, get them out of the exhaust draft. I have gone through about 4 sets of those stalk type ones...some even break when they are fitted, proper rubbish!
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: TK on August 09, 2016, 03:45:50 pm
Hey Angel. Could you please share as to where you got the indicators. Fed up with the normal ones.
Title: Re:
Post by: Archangel on August 09, 2016, 05:07:11 pm
Indicators were from Flying Brick at R560 a pair. But note that it's not an easy fit where they are situated. Will post some pics later of how I had to make it work...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Crossed-up on August 09, 2016, 05:22:46 pm
Craigs also have cheaper glue-on LEDs. They work very well.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Rough Rider on August 10, 2016, 02:42:34 pm
That number plate hanger is so fragile, the first time the bike tips over it breaks.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 10, 2016, 03:03:18 pm
Craigs also have cheaper glue-on LEDs. They work very well.

I honestly haven't shopped around much. Just popped into Flying Brick as I wanted to support them. Not sure I would've gone for the glue-one type either way.

That number plate hanger is so fragile, the first time the bike tips over it breaks.

Sure, modifying it will be on the agenda, but for now I just need working indicators. Ultimately shortening the plate hangers will do what most "Tail Tidy" kits do. And then they also usually break at the first sign of tip overs, so I'll stick with this one until it fails.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on August 10, 2016, 10:57:39 pm
I had my backlight assembly break, so I shortened it and bolted a small numberplate to some conveyor belting and a s/s plate to give it some rigidity, works very well and has survived 2 Swazi trips, and that says a lot. Will post a pic when I get a chance.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Scrat on August 12, 2016, 08:48:42 am
Here is a pic of my tail light mod....
(http://i63.tinypic.com/vr3lav.jpg)
broke my tail light and opted for the Universal MX LED tail light setup

Got it from Craigs  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Mini-Fender-LED-Enduro-Dirt-Bike-Motocross-MX-Tail-Light-Rec-Reg-/161513197676 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Mini-Fender-LED-Enduro-Dirt-Bike-Motocross-MX-Tail-Light-Rec-Reg-/161513197676)

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 12, 2016, 01:06:02 pm
Here is a pic of my tail light mod....

Got it from Craigs  http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Mini-Fender-LED-Enduro-Dirt-Bike-Motocross-MX-Tail-Light-Rec-Reg-/161513197676 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Universal-Mini-Fender-LED-Enduro-Dirt-Bike-Motocross-MX-Tail-Light-Rec-Reg-/161513197676)


I like it! How much did you pay?

And was it an easy fit or did it require significant modification?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Scrat on August 12, 2016, 01:14:59 pm
Was heel maklik... grootste werk was om die draade te conect. en om die ou plastic mooi af te saag van die fender af  :thumleft:

dink die backlight was R320  ;)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Geel Kat on August 12, 2016, 02:49:37 pm
Eddy2R did a very nice tail tidy to my 701 before they delivered. 
Was included in the price of the new bike and looks like it was just plug and play.

701 with them at the moment so cannot take photos, but maybe give them a call it can't be too expensive.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 12, 2016, 09:14:37 pm
After fitting the soft luggage racks this afternoon, I realised that shortening the tail piece would be pointless, as it fits nicely over the rear cross beam / stiffener of the luggage racks. IF I shorten it, that beam will just look odd hanging in mid air...

I forgot to take pics, but will do so when it's all done.

[EDIT] See 3rd pic from the top for reference of how the luggage racks look.

I fitted the luggage racks for the following reasons:
1. Space to fit luggage on trips. (The obvious reason)
2. To support the rear sub-frame. (The not so obvious reason)

I've found myself sitting quite far back on the seat as a norm and especially if I have any additional form of weight on the rear (fuel, luggage etc), that sub-frame would be under continual stress.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 12, 2016, 09:17:26 pm
Btw, this is the LED indicator and you'll see that the thread part is pretty long. I had to shorten it due to the lack of space behind the outside plastic.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160812/0fc336fb186934bcef976a76663d318d.jpg)

The plastic nut is also very wide. Good thing it's plastic. So onto the grinder it went, to create my own flatter version...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160812/8efb0cca5512196fefa4beab028cf9eb.jpg)

The curve on the plastics results in a little gap between the indicator and plastic. I also got the placing a little out, so I'm contemplating moving it a bit. All in all, I'm not super happy with the fit, but I guess it'll have to do for now.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on August 12, 2016, 11:40:46 pm
That rack does not support the rear subframe! It WILL fail with that pizza box on it (even with nothing in it)! If you are going to put ANYTHING on the rack other than a rain suit you must have that subframe gusseted. I may have mentioned this before? Go look on Cafe Husky.  :3some:
Title: Re:
Post by: Archangel on August 13, 2016, 07:43:13 am
The rack mounts to the frame where the footpegs go and then on the back where the luggage plate is, essentially providing triangular reinforcement and  prevents it from pivoting. Or so I thought...

BiG DoM, do you have experience with a luggage rack like that which failed? Other input welcome!!!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re:
Post by: BiG DoM on August 13, 2016, 08:22:34 am
The rack mounts to the frame where the footpegs go and then on the back where the luggage plate is, essentially providing triangular reinforcement and  prevents it from pivoting. Or so I thought...

BiG DoM, do you have experience with a luggage rack like that which failed? Other input welcome!!!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Many reported failures of alu rear sub frames on these and many other 'plasticy DS bikes'. I had not seen/remembered the photos with the side racks only with them removed and just the rear top box. I am not convinced that the side racks will support the tail rack effectively without transferring vibration that inevitably leads to fracture but then it may work as I have not seen the construction. Some may think the racks also add protection but  could also transfer forces to RSF if dropped Personally I would loose the racks as add extra weight (I use a GL Coyote on mine with no issue) and just gusset the RSF if you want a rear rack. Less is more imo.
Title: Re:
Post by: Archangel on August 13, 2016, 08:32:35 am
I desperately wanted to strengthen the subframe as I had failures on my 450/525  and 950. They are probably less than 4kg and the though of added bike protection did cross my mind.

My gut feeling was that it would transfer some of the weight to the footpeg mountings. I guess the jury is still out on this one...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on August 13, 2016, 11:31:58 am
I guess some weight will get transferred there (the rider foot pegs mountings are already suspect, well the bolts and the mating surfaces) but the cantilever whip effect of the rear carrier is still largely behind where the pannier frames connects  ::) I must say I have always eyed these Moto Billet carriers (and there is a version with sides as well) as they are sexy but not allowed myself to be seduced by them. I fitted a small TT carrier to the mudguard and a small strap on Kriega bag for light stuff. I take this off sometimes to fit a Nomad bum tank if I need extra fuel range. I strengthened the aluminium frame under the rear mudguard with alu angle iron pop-rivetted on. As I say I use a GL bag that rests the weight on the back of the seat and then low down and forward.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on August 14, 2016, 08:32:20 pm
Check the battery tray too, they like to crack as well. I put two large cable ties to help keep the battery in place.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 14, 2016, 08:46:52 pm
Will definitely check the battery tray. Didn't get to work on the bike over the weekend, hence no pics or progress.

This might be a stupid question, but would the clutch lever switch which has to be pulled in order for the starter motor to engage, prevent the bike from being push or run started?

Has anyone had issues with this or bypassed their clutch lever switch?

Another question: Has anyone had issues where if you set the gear lever high enough for your boot to fit in, it pushes against the chain on the upshift?

Or does everyone else have midget feet?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on August 14, 2016, 10:06:03 pm
I have by-passed/bridged the clutch idiot switch  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on August 15, 2016, 09:35:24 am
Will definitely check the battery tray. Didn't get to work on the bike over the weekend, hence no pics or progress.

This might be a stupid question, but would the clutch lever switch which has to be pulled in order for the starter motor to engage, prevent the bike from being push or run started?

Has anyone had issues with this or bypassed their clutch lever switch?

Another question: Has anyone had issues where if you set the gear lever high enough for your boot to fit in, it pushes against the chain on the upshift?

Or does everyone else have midget feet?
I adjusted the lever one spline up for the Tech 7 boots, which don't have a lip.

Only experienced it touching the black plastic chain/sprocket guard, when shifting up.

Sanded that with a flap disc, till it cleared.

Will double check the chain clearance! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 19, 2016, 08:33:09 am
So here's my new rear end...

Our ginger cat doing the final QC inspection.  O0
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 19, 2016, 08:35:09 am
And as for the rear luggage carrier rack.

I think that I'll figure out a way to move the rear beam to where I've indicated to provide extra carrying strength, because at the moment, it doesn't do much...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on August 19, 2016, 08:42:43 am
I've actually filed a couple of mm down on the lever itself, but it still touches the chain on the upshift...  :-\

This is what the LC8 gear lever looks like:

(http://www.cjdesignsllc.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/07/HH-KTM-9-Shift-Lever-2015.jpg)

You'll see that it has a deeper trough to allow clearance. Unfortunately they don't fit on the Husky, as they've got the bolt that screws into the middle as opposed to the clamp type that goes around the shaft. I've had a look at a bunch of other options, but can't find anything of the shelf that'll solve my problem.

Here's what I did to the little plastic cover anyways.
Title: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on August 19, 2016, 10:12:16 pm
I have the Tech 7 boots, which have a molded sole, so no lip to aid in gear changes.

I moved the lever one spline up.

I can easily gear up, but have to lift my boot for the down changes.

There is ample space to the chain, with the lever fully up.

I do have aftermarket footpegs, but comparing them to the OEM, there doesn't seem any difference in the height of the different pegs.

Wont you be able to do gearchanges with the lever in a lower position?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 16, 2016, 09:40:15 am
I have the Tech 7 boots, which have a molded sole, so no lip to aid in gear changes.

I moved the lever one spline up.

I can easily gear up, but have to lift my boot for the down changes.

There is ample space to the chain, with the lever fully up.

I do have aftermarket footpegs, but comparing them to the OEM, there doesn't seem any difference in the height of the different pegs.

Wont you be able to do gearchanges with the lever in a lower position?

Problem is that when I'm riding, my boots often accidentally nudge gear lever either into a false neutral or into a higher gear.

I like to be intentional about gear shifting.  :thumleft:

Anyways, on the maintenance side, some of you might remember this...

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=197844.0;attach=496878;image)

If you don't know the story, click here (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=197844.0) to read the ride report.   :deal:

So it's a coupla phone calls and a number of pop-ins. Luke (from Eddy2Race) said that due to the fact that these models are discontinued, they don't keep stock and lead times should be around 6 weeks. I finally got the right sprocket from TracMac in Bellville, after their system said they didn't have. They had a different one (46T), so I asked if I can see it anyways. Bob's your uncle, it was the correct one which was obviously incorrectly booked into their system.

I decided to stick to the original ratio of 15/45 for now. When I took of the original rear sprocket, I noticed that it is aluminium. The PBR is cast iron (much heavier), so I'm guessing it should last a bit longer?

Side Note: Renz (http://www.renz.co.za) is moving premesis from Montague Gardens to Bellville/Durbanville area, so they have some pretty good specials at the moment. Paid R720 for the EK x-ring chain.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 16, 2016, 10:38:12 am
So here's my new rear end...

Our ginger cat doing the final QC inspection.  O0
Are you going to de-cat the exhaust ?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 16, 2016, 11:07:19 am
So here's my new rear end...

Our ginger cat doing the final QC inspection.  O0
Are you going to de-cat the exhaust ?

I haven't decided yet. Some part of me thinks that loads of R&D goes into the original design, with lambda sensors and fueling etc, so it would be silly to bugger around with that. Same applies to the PowerUp mod.

On the other hand, I've seen noticeable improvements on some of my other (older) bikes when changing silencers and fueling/tuning. At the moment, it's not a big NEED and I'm content with a little quieter bike (had complaints from neighbors about my 950).
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 16, 2016, 05:51:00 pm
Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route. :pot:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 16, 2016, 07:49:05 pm
Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route. :pot:
Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 16, 2016, 08:27:09 pm
Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route. :pot:
Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agreed got a TE610 with the full mods and a Subie XT (not to mention a HP2)  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 16, 2016, 08:35:17 pm
Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route. :pot:
Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agreed got a TE610 with the full mods and a Subie XT (not to mention a HP2)  :imaposer:
Bertie has the 950 SE, and of course his Aprilia trac bike!🙀🙀

Myself...a mint 990R...🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on September 16, 2016, 08:35:57 pm
Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT!

 :drif:

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 16, 2016, 08:45:56 pm
Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route. :pot:
Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agreed got a TE610 with the full mods and a Subie XT (not to mention a HP2)  :imaposer:
Bertie has the 950 SE, and of course his Aprilia trac bike!🙀🙀

Myself...a mint 990R...🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yip I know the feeling, Xpat was also complaining about my 610 keeping up with his 690, I think he said something like: Husky has no business keeping up with 690!
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 16, 2016, 09:30:03 pm
So I've replaced both sprockets. Front one shown below.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/548d50c6b42c6f049d4bfa5148a0aff4.jpg)

You can also see the little cut out I made in the gear lever 3 weeks ago. I guess I should consider beefing up the bottom to strengthen it a bit.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/193d9498ba9580c0af5594a36f5d5abf.jpg)

I've also removed the tank to see where my oil leak comes from...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160916/c63dd0709c6085336b3fea7ac3f6cb06.jpg)

Looks like I found the culprit... Any idea of where I can get a new tappet cover gasket before next June?

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 16, 2016, 09:57:38 pm
Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route. :pot:
Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Agreed got a TE610 with the full mods and a Subie XT (not to mention a HP2)  :imaposer:
Bertie has the 950 SE, and of course his Aprilia trac bike!🙀🙀

Myself...a mint 990R...🙀🙀🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk


Yip I know the feeling, Xpat was also complaining about my 610 keeping up with his 690, I think he said something like: Husky has no business keeping up with 690!
😆😆😆😆😆😆


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 16, 2016, 10:18:07 pm
The chain that removed was a 520 EK chain and it was still in reasonably good shape, but I thought now that I'm doing both sprockets and since I did a few hundred k's on that chain with a busted rear sprocket that was likely slipping every now and again, it was worth doing it all at once.

Tomorrow (likely from halftime during the Bok game, if they're more than 20 points behind) I plan to do the clutch washers that I've received from Straatie.

BTW, thanks, I collected them from PostNet.  ;D  Forgot to tell you that they have arrived.

Then, when all is closed up again, it's the big cleanup!!!
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 17, 2016, 04:09:35 am
I cut my own replacement tappet cover gaskets - not difficult and not worth waiting who knows how many months!? The problem with these bikes though is not the gaskets but that the oil migrates up the stud threads and leaks out! - you need to seal them with gasket silicone.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 17, 2016, 05:30:17 am
I cut my own replacement tappet cover gaskets - not difficult and not worth waiting who knows how many months!? The problem with these bikes though is not the gaskets but that the oil migrates up the stud threads and leaks out! - you need to seal them with gasket silicone.  :thumleft:
Thanks Dom! I'll have a look once the cover is off. Maybe I can reuse the gasket and just seal the stud holes as mentioned.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 17, 2016, 06:36:53 am
I cut my own replacement tappet cover gaskets - not difficult and not worth waiting who knows how many months!? The problem with these bikes though is not the gaskets but that the oil migrates up the stud threads and leaks out! - you need to seal them with gasket silicone.  :thumleft:
Noted! 👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 17, 2016, 06:46:23 am
I cut my own replacement tappet cover gaskets - not difficult and not worth waiting who knows how many months!? The problem with these bikes though is not the gaskets but that the oil migrates up the stud threads and leaks out! - you need to seal them with gasket silicone.  :thumleft:
Thanks Dom! I'll have a look once the cover is off. Maybe I can reuse the gasket and just seal the stud holes as mentioned.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Yes if careful they can often be reused. Some have also added ribbed copper washers to help seal.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 17, 2016, 11:37:28 am
Arch, excuse me if you mentioned it before, what mileage on your 610?
Title: Re:
Post by: Archangel on September 17, 2016, 01:09:29 pm
Around 17 000 km. Swung a few spanners this morning. Haven't gotten to the clutch washer part yet, but will hopefully get there this afternoon.

Will post some pics later...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 17, 2016, 01:35:02 pm
You'll surely gain a few horses with the new chain and sprockets!😉

Even a slack chain feels like its robbing those ponies!😔

Your old sprockets are really fubar!!🙀


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 17, 2016, 01:53:34 pm
I fitted a Stealth rear sprocket from Chain Tech SA - good service and great product.
Title: Re: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 17, 2016, 05:07:48 pm
I fitted a Stealth rear sprocket from Chain Tech SA - good service and great product.
PBR is made in Italy, so it's a good match...  ;)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 17, 2016, 05:13:04 pm
I fitted a Stealth rear sprocket from Chain Tech SA - good service and great product.

PBR is made in Italy, so it's a good match...  ;)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Is the rear PBR as well as the counter sprocket? Yes meant to be good and in fact this is the other make of sprocket that Chain Tech import.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: 1ougat on September 17, 2016, 05:51:46 pm
 :sip:
Title: Re: Re: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 17, 2016, 05:59:07 pm
I fitted a Stealth rear sprocket from Chain Tech SA - good service and great product.

PBR is made in Italy, so it's a good match...  ;)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Is the rear PBR as well as the counter sprocket? Yes meant to be good and in fact this is the other make of sprocket that Chain Tech import.
Yes, both are PBR. I'm convinced that I could find them in the correct sizes due to the fact that they are both Italian.

Btw, this is what I got up to in the afternoon...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/ba0177bab583533926a43f43b0afcdee.jpg)

Note the gasket maker on the threads of the bolts. They already had copper washers, but it obviously didn't resolve the issue.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/b5749af55c39111bc421a4867a1d15da.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/f081f4923bc9f4e2d0ad471173750a2d.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/db5e769e23889e4f0d52d847a83e0fd6.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160917/beaa0aacfdb9dd8be2079ea72c826cd6.jpg)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 17, 2016, 06:05:45 pm
Did you check the bolts of the top, engine to frame bracket? The two top bolts are generally loose. I actually snapped both, and replaced them when I tightened them!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 17, 2016, 09:44:56 pm
Those bolts....I have almost given up trying to find a way for them to stay tight. Loctite, locknuts, anything I try, next time the tank comes off, they are loose again. Next time I am going with M8! I suppose they take a lot of vibration and just work loose no matter what. One more reason to fix your bike after every hectic ride (ie Swaziland)

Arch, I am going to make a prediction that your washers are properly shot, at 17k I would not expect anything less. Mine was gone at 10k.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 17, 2016, 10:03:51 pm
Those bolts....I have almost given up trying to find a way for them to stay tight. Loctite, locknuts, anything I try, next time the tank comes off, they are loose again. Next time I am going with M8! I suppose they take a lot of vibration and just work loose no matter what. One more reason to fix your bike after every hectic ride (ie Swaziland)

Arch, I am going to make a prediction that your washers are properly shot, at 17k I would not expect anything less. Mine was gone at 10k.

The ones in RED or the ones in YELLOW?

I haven't noticed them being loose, but I'll have a look tomorrow when I do the re-assembly. Thanks for the heads up.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 17, 2016, 10:31:13 pm
The red ones are the ones that are mostly loose. Mine had vibrated so there was black oxide. Nylok nuts or/and Loktite  :thumleft: Check the lower one as well.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 07:38:51 am
I tightened the red ones with a 1/4" drive socket. Both sheared off. I replaced with stainless allen caps and nylocks.

I doubt if this mount is that important. If I engineered it, it would be more beefy or at least thicker bolts!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 07:45:51 am
Regarding the luggage rack. I also wanted to fit racks to brace the RSF. Not doing it for now.

I have a smallish alu luggage rack, bolted through the rear mudguard to a stainless bracket.

Subframe was gusseted.

I had a custom tail pack made, the size of the luggage plate, with 4 seperate pouches attached. The front pouch is for the slightly heavy tools, and actually rests on the mudguard, between the rack and seat.

I'm sticking to this for now. I mostly use the Husky for 3 day Swazi trips, for which I pack lightly.

I'll post pics, which are on the 610 general maintenance thread.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 08:00:57 am
RSF(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/82572f1588d1c7b2b4b86e0f7f8a4b6a.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/a919b9d3dd276345f852678ebaa225c0.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/166b4490a9c9e1814e9a5c1388bfd4b1.jpg)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 08:58:12 am
Tail pack. Tools in the front pouch. Light stuff in the rest!

RSF has survived two 3 day Swazi Hard Core Rides so far. Only had the new tail pack on for the last.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/7e8a38fe7179fe4722202f4c448e0701.jpg)(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/4c05e7e6fbaf1c7f22462a4b9b61368a.jpg)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 09:03:26 am
I've added more padding to the seat. With padded cycling pants my bum now survives 3 days in the saddle. I'm no Meerkat, and sit most of the time!
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/498d9a14a6c85c9ca9e2a31e58d8aa96.jpg)


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 09:07:34 am
The rear of the seat is slightly shorter than original, and has a slight lip, to gain access to the Dzuss fastener. Like I mentioned, the space between the luggage rack and seat is taken up by the tool pouch.

In sand I find my bum against the tool pouch, which is perfect for me.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 18, 2016, 09:26:38 am
I tightened the red ones with a 1/4" drive socket. Both sheared off. I replaced with stainless allen caps and nylocks.

I doubt if this mount is that important. If I engineered it, it would be more beefy or at least thicker bolts!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bike looking good. Ja some of those italian bolts must be made of spaghetti. For noting stainless bolts are weaker than most steel and stainless is also susceptible to vibration fatigue more. Ideally one wants good spec high tensile bolts for engine mountings.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 05:22:54 pm
I tightened the red ones with a 1/4" drive socket. Both sheared off. I replaced with stainless allen caps and nylocks.

I doubt if this mount is that important. If I engineered it, it would be more beefy or at least thicker bolts!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Bike looking good. Ja some of those italian bolts must be made of spaghetti. For noting stainless bolts are weaker than most steel and stainless is also susceptible to vibration fatigue more. Ideally one wants good spec high tensile bolts for engine mountings.
That's all I had at home. Will keep an eye on them. 👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 05:28:04 pm
I requested the gussets up to the ends of the subframe. The fabricator did not do it. At least they strengthen the front bolt holes, which should be the weakest point.

I pack light, and with damping on factory setting, the subframe is hammered less than before.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 08:09:46 pm
I never realised that I'd have to remove the gear from clutch basket by drilling and punching out the rivets. I don't have the tools (or finesse) at home, so off to the workshop I go tomorrow...

I have some significant wear and tear on the washers and you'll see that the one spring was very loose!

http://www.youtube.com/v/-48dZlHfeWc
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 08:13:36 pm
Some more pics...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/5457e22d4621b0959b93a2de25b9fb3c.jpg)

In her current state.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/9c597eb4516b29164d3ebc27340b8953.jpg)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 08:17:31 pm
Chopper, I really like that seat. I'm considering some form of "pull over" as I'm not too keen to modify the actual seat and I don't want to buy a new one.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on September 18, 2016, 08:20:46 pm
Ask Straatkat whether he still have a set if his upgraded washers and pins for sale.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 08:24:15 pm
Chopper, I really like that seat. I'm considering some form of "pull over" as I'm not too keen to modify the actual seat and I don't want to buy a new one.
A pull over is an excellent idea!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 08:25:02 pm
Ask Straatkat whether he still have a set if his upgraded washers and pins for sale.
He mentioned making a new batch!👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 08:25:30 pm
Ask Straatkat whether he still have a set if his upgraded washers and pins for sale.

Already have a pair in my garage.  :thumleft:   This is exactly why I'm busy with the repair. However, I'm not the greatest reader and missed the part about drilling out the rivets and punching them back in.  ::)

I have to be honest, at the moment I don't understand the function of the springs as I cannot see anything that will push against them, allowing them to compress. Can the inside gear that comes out the back turn or is it fixed to the outer gear? I'm sure once they have come apart and the springs are out, I'll have a better understanding.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 08:37:21 pm
Btw, should I be worried about springs that look like this? I mean the actual spring...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160918/2840ca70c3de1af51bc7c0bafa0f782c.jpg)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 09:18:03 pm
Do you have the service limit of the springs? If they are within limits, I wouldn't bother. Condition of the other springs?


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on September 18, 2016, 09:19:00 pm
That spring retainer lip is what would concern me even more.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 09:21:23 pm
Why are they worn? Do they rub somewhere on the outside of the clutch basket? If so, that could be a concern.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 09:26:59 pm
Not sure why they are warn. I just read this post (http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=137781.msg2706123#msg2706123) of Straatkat and decided to have a look.

Here are some of his pics:

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=137781.0;attach=325103;image)

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=137781.0;attach=325104;image)

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=137781.0;attach=325105;image)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 18, 2016, 09:29:10 pm
I wouldn't worry about that spring - when out just dress the edge of the retaining lip with a file.

The easiest way to get the rivets out is to grind them flat with an angle grinder and then punch them out. The new washers can be flattened with a peel hammer but I just took mine to the local clutch and brake guys who had a pneumatic  hammer that did it quick-quick.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 18, 2016, 09:38:33 pm
Yes Arch and mine had only 10000km on. Yours will be much worse unless it was only ridden to church on Sundays by an old lady!
I suggest you change the plate and the springs, they are not expensive, part numbers are on the paper I sent you with the washers. The clutch works hard,  dont take chances.
The spring set up is a cush drive that saves your drivetrain by removing the shock when you let the clutch out. Ever felt a slight pause or delay in power when you pull off? That is the springs loading up and absorbing the shock of you letting the clutch out.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 09:44:21 pm
Yes Arch and mine had only 10000km on. Yours will be much worse unless it was only ridden to church on Sundays by an old lady!
I suggest you change the plate and the springs, they are not expensive, part numbers are on the paper I sent you with the washers. The clutch works hard,  dont take chances.
The spring set up is a cush drive that saves your drivetrain by removing the shock when you let the clutch out. Ever felt a slight pause or delay in power when you pull off? That is the springs loading up and absorbing the shock of you letting the clutch out.

Perhaps if I place my order for the springs and plates now, the parts will be hear in time for the 30 000 km service.  :imaposer:

The springs are obviously too stiff for me to move. Once I've taken them out, I'll re-assemble without the springs to see what moves where. I like to understand these things. I'm already much more comfortable with this bike now than two weeks ago.

Rather the devil you know...  >:D
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 18, 2016, 09:46:11 pm
The plate holds the springs in their place and with those slots worn in them how are they going to do their job? Replace it! And if you have to wait for the part anyway, replace the springs also then your clutch assembly is better than new.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 09:54:38 pm
Achie

If you can find out the pricing for the springs and plate, I might order with you.👍


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 09:55:26 pm
The plate holds the springs in their place and with those slots worn in them how are they going to do their job? Replace it!

Fair comment.

And if you have to wait for the part anyway, replace the springs also then your clutch assembly is better than new.

Well that's just the thing. I'm not planning on waiting for parts and then not have a bike (earliest AFAIK is 6 weeks from placement of order). I'll fix it best I can for now, close everything up and ride the damn bike. In the meantime, I'll place the order for a new set of springs, plate and rivets.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 18, 2016, 10:02:17 pm
Achie

If you can find out the pricing for the springs and plate, I might order with you.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

PM me your number. I'll post prices and lead times on here tomorrow.

Here's the parts fiche, in case anybody else was looking for it...

http://docs.wavenetworks.us/parts//2008%20610%20Parts.pdf (http://docs.wavenetworks.us/parts//2008%20610%20Parts.pdf)

Item 51, part no: 8000 79311 - Plate
Item 52, part no: 8000 79310 - Spring
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 18, 2016, 10:24:56 pm
PM sent. Thank you! 😉


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 19, 2016, 07:23:29 am
I fixed my  plate temporarily by welding up the worn parts and put it back while I waited for the parts, I am back in my shop on wednesday can look if I still have it and maby some less worn springs I can send you as an emergency fix, rhen you can at least ride the wild pony in the meantime.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on September 19, 2016, 07:33:56 am
Some news on the spares front - especially for Dom >:D

Apparantly there was a glitch in the global parts system that affected both KTM and Husqvarna for 3 weeks. Now resolved. A number of parts I was waiting for arrived together.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 19, 2016, 09:42:04 am
OK, had the rivets removed this morning. So this is where we stand...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/0f97e7ac6451dfb9bc5365d6377e0054.jpg)

Some close ups of the plate.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/7e0bd5c3c9cb366ecb81f070c34a4ccf.jpg)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/dc890dbb73a4d48db019314a2a7121db.jpg)

Should I be worried about the wear on the clutch basket?

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160919/68001f3a62fa235e79bfbab7cdef4627.jpg)

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 19, 2016, 09:55:51 am
BTW, luckily all the washers are still there. Some are far more worn than others. One washer has a very flat side and one is almost completely warn through in the middle, while some of the others look like they are brand new.  :scratch:   :dontknow:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 19, 2016, 10:33:48 am
New plates from Eddy2Race are R180 a pop with 2-3 weeks lead time (it might be here sooner though).

I'm placing an order for Chopper and myself.   :thumleft:


[EDIT] Let me know before 3pm if you want to add your name to the list for placing orders atEddy2Race...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 19, 2016, 04:03:56 pm
Phew I must say that that cover plate looks worse than I thought - good move to replace it. What km is on the bike - mine is identical model and year and did not look nearly as shagged!?  ::)  If it had been a SM model I could understand. Honestly I have seen quite a few pics on CF but cannot recall the cover plates being as worn as yours and Streetcat's  ???  The wear on those fingers on the basket is also pretty normal - I had a some and also just dressed it with a file. Seen much worse that have been filed smooth on KDX's etc.  :o  What has the clutch felt like? Grabby?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 19, 2016, 04:16:31 pm
Phew I must say that that cover plate looks worse than I thought - good move to replace it. What km is on the bike - mine is identical model and year and did not look nearly as shagged!?  ::)  If it had been a SM model I could understand. Honestly I have seen quite a few pics on CF but cannot recall the cover plates being as worn as yours and Streetcat's  ???  The wear on those fingers on the basket is also pretty normal - I had a some and also just dressed it with a file. Seen much worse that have been filed smooth on KDX's etc.  :o  What has the clutch felt like? Grabby?

Not sure. I thought the difference was purely due the different nature of the clutch that I'm used to, coming from the 950 which has a relatively smooth hydraulic clutch. I can't specifically recall it being more grabby than my KTM 450 or 525 or XT600.   :-\

I'll let you know if I can tell the difference after replacement.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 19, 2016, 05:22:47 pm
The reason why some washers are compltely gone and others still look OK is the surfaces on the gear where they work. Those oblong holes are sheared out and some are rougher than others, so the washers that were on the smoother surfaces are still fine and the ones on the rough sheared edges are chewed up, that is why you must smoothen the edges in the gear where the washers work. It is very important.
BD the clutch is unaffected by the washers being worn as they only serve as a cush drive. Unless the springs and the plate is so worn that it catches on something....but it would have to be investigated and I assume would have to be much, much more worn for that to happen. Mine showed no change in clutch action when I replaced the washers and plate
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 19, 2016, 08:27:12 pm
Some news on the spares front - especially for Dom >:D

Apparantly there was a glitch in the global parts system that affected both KTM and Husqvarna for 3 weeks. Now resolved. A number of parts I was waiting for arrived together.
:thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 19, 2016, 08:43:47 pm
Thanks for your help with the parts order Archie! :thumleft:

Regarding the operation of the clutch. I would regard mine as normal, and fine for me.

I gave the bike a strip down and major service when I got it. This included dripping WD 40 in the clutch cable till it ran out the bottom of the cable. Cable routing was fine. The clutch lever was worn and loose. The wear was on the opposite side of the plastic washer at the pivot point. De-greased, sanded, Pratley Steel, sanded, greased. I also applied grease to the inner cable at both ends.

There is a huge difference in my and Straatkat's 610's clutch action. I wouldn't even bother with a hydraulic unit! (We have discussed this before.)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 19, 2016, 09:00:38 pm
Thanks for your help with the parts order Archie! :thumleft:

Pleasure.  ;)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on September 19, 2016, 09:30:59 pm
Thanks for your help with the parts order Archie! :thumleft:

Pleasure.  ;)
:thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 19, 2016, 10:24:35 pm
The reason why some washers are compltely gone and others still look OK is the surfaces on the gear where they work. Those oblong holes are sheared out and some are rougher than others, so the washers that were on the smoother surfaces are still fine and the ones on the rough sheared edges are chewed up, that is why you must smoothen the edges in the gear where the washers work. It is very important.
BD the clutch is unaffected by the washers being worn as they only serve as a cush drive. Unless the springs and the plate is so worn that it catches on something....but it would have to be investigated and I assume would have to be much, much more worn for that to happen. Mine showed no change in clutch action when I replaced the washers and plate

I was referring to the wear on the basket fingers not the washers - they often cause judder or grab (although the wear pictured is not unusually bad). I would agree with the observation regarding the spring slots being punched out and not carefully finished in production, as with the washer mating surfaces, thus causing friction and premature and uneven wear. The washers are though also made in a pasta machine.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 20, 2016, 07:39:35 am
Archie have you checked your cam chain wear yet ? They also like to stretch and start to make contact with the inside of the stator housing. You can pull the adjuster to see how many clicks are left.

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Rough Rider on September 20, 2016, 08:21:34 am
Archie have you checked your cam chain wear yet ? They also like to stretch and start to make contact with the inside of the stator housing. You can pull the adjuster to see how many clicks are left.



Actually the camchain rubs against the reed valve when it has streched.

Have you checked the sticky on Cafe Husky regarding the clutch washers?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 20, 2016, 08:37:00 am

Actually the camchain rubs against the reed valve when it has streched.

Haven't had a look. Will do that this afternoon.  :thumleft:

Have you checked the sticky on Cafe Husky regarding the clutch washers?

Ja, I saw that, thanks!
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 20, 2016, 10:02:18 am
Did any of you guys replace the 6 x clutch compression springs (item 43) while doing these mods?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on September 20, 2016, 11:02:50 am
Did any of you guys replace the 6 x clutch compression springs (item 43) while doing these mods?

No, I checked mine against specifications (length) and they were all well within spec.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on September 20, 2016, 10:26:52 pm
Did any of you guys replace the 6 x clutch compression springs (item 43) while doing these mods?

No, I checked mine against specifications (length) and they were all well within spec.

When you put in the new washers they are a bit thicker than the stock ones so you should be OK with the old springs.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 21, 2016, 08:11:36 am
Straatkat, We're talking about the  actual clutch springs, not the the Cush springs...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Scrat on September 21, 2016, 08:20:43 am
Straatkat, We're talking about the  actual clutch springs, not the the Cush springs...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I had an unexplained clutch slip on high speed in 6th gear... for the past 2 years... did 2x Amageza's like that with no issues and tried a few different options to sort this out suggested by different forums... no luck

Then about a month ago...
I replaced my 6x clutch springs and steel plates with new OEM ones ordered from Eddy2Race and......... we have a winner!! all sorted...
i think it was mainly the springs 3 of them measured just below spec  :P
cost was about R780 for everything.

Hope this info helps?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 21, 2016, 08:26:51 am
In other words it might be worth replacing while it's open...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 21, 2016, 09:37:01 am
In other words it might be worth replacing while it's open...


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Dont worry you will be opening it a lot  :pot: Kidding loved mine. All things to check :

Rocker bushes
Cam chain and guides (reed valve wear)
Cush hub spacers like you did
Clutch springs
The bag filters in the motor, they catch all the metal crap that the engine eats up
Battery tray cracks
Sub frame cracks
Foot peg bolts can break / stretch
My ignition wore out so you could remove key after switching it on, could be issue on older models
Check that the wires do not get rubbed through under the battery, happened to my friend on his Fi 610
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 21, 2016, 10:25:36 am
Can add:

Engine mounting bolts
All servicable bearings - wheel, suspension and steering head
Rocker cover - seal bolts and gaskets
Spaghetti side stand (first thing that gave on mine!)
Airbox threaded inserts
 


Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 21, 2016, 10:43:58 am

Airbox threaded inserts


2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 21, 2016, 11:30:39 am

Airbox threaded inserts


2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?
Going to be fiddly to remove cover, how about new inserts ?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 21, 2016, 11:35:06 am

Airbox threaded inserts


2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?
Going to be fiddly to remove cover, how about new inserts ?

Will surely just strip out again? I'm a fan of fixing the design, rather than running into the same issue over and over.

I might try to permanently fit a proper nut into the tube where the inserts went. Not sure how yet.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 21, 2016, 11:57:40 am

Airbox threaded inserts


2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?
Going to be fiddly to remove cover, how about new inserts ?

Will surely just strip out again? I'm a fan of fixing the design, rather than running into the same issue over and over.

I might try to permanently fit a proper nut into the tube where the inserts went. Not sure how yet.

My fix was to remove the entire airbox  :biggrin:  But one can do two things - put mini hose clamps on the back that compress the plastic so the insert does not spin or possibly better drill alongside the insert and Q-bond or epoxy them vas. The problem is once they spin you can struggle to get the screws out - some have had success with a power driver on fast reverse  ::)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 21, 2016, 12:10:10 pm
My fix was to remove the entire airbox  :biggrin:  But one can do two things - put mini hose clamps on the back that compress the plastic so the insert does not spin or possibly better drill alongside the insert and Q-bond or epoxy them vas. The problem is once they spin you can struggle to get the screws out - some have had success with a power driver on fast reverse  ::)

I was wondering about that. Did you fit an aftermarket filter? Pics please!!!

I had something like this in mind...

(http://www.projectsbyzac.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/CX500-Cafe-Racer-rebuilt-carbs-and-cone-air-filter-reinstalled.jpg)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 21, 2016, 12:10:19 pm

Airbox threaded inserts


2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?
Going to be fiddly to remove cover, how about new inserts ?

Will surely just strip out again? I'm a fan of fixing the design, rather than running into the same issue over and over.

I might try to permanently fit a proper nut into the tube where the inserts went. Not sure how yet.
It was suggested to tighten screws only slightly with copper grease on the threads. They should have used those half turn d type screws.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on September 21, 2016, 01:12:48 pm

Airbox threaded inserts


2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?
Going to be fiddly to remove cover, how about new inserts ?

Will surely just strip out again? I'm a fan of fixing the design, rather than running into the same issue over and over.

I might try to permanently fit a proper nut into the tube where the inserts went. Not sure how yet.
It was suggested to tighten screws only slightly with copper grease on the threads. They should have used those half turn d type screws.
DZUS ?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 21, 2016, 01:16:57 pm
DZUS ?

Yes, something like this...

(http://www.sportsbike.com.au/images/dzus-stdline-set.jpg)

(http://kurveygirl.com/shop/images/Dzus%20-%20Panex%20-%20D-ring%20and%20Rivet%20seperate.jpg)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 21, 2016, 01:28:58 pm
Yes that's the one
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on September 21, 2016, 01:58:27 pm

I was wondering about that. Did you fit an aftermarket filter? Pics please!!!

I had something like this in mind...

(http://www.projectsbyzac.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/CX500-Cafe-Racer-rebuilt-carbs-and-cone-air-filter-reinstalled.jpg)
[/quote]

No that would be fine for a SM but not what I wanted due to water crossings etc. I routed a pod filter under seat and made space by using an Ultrabatt.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on September 30, 2016, 03:18:48 pm
DZUS ?

Yes, something like this...

(http://kurveygirl.com/shop/images/Dzus%20-%20Panex%20-%20D-ring%20and%20Rivet%20seperate.jpg)

So I've gotten hold of the distributors in JHB (Astra Fasteners in Boksburg, apparently the only in RSA?) and they informed me that these units are R70 for a set! :o

Apparently because it's aviation grade...  ::)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on September 30, 2016, 11:25:04 pm
DZUS ?

Yes, something like this...

(http://kurveygirl.com/shop/images/Dzus%20-%20Panex%20-%20D-ring%20and%20Rivet%20seperate.jpg)

So I've gotten hold of the distributors in JHB (Astra Fasteners in Boksburg, apparently the only in RSA?) and they informed me that these units are R70 for a set! :o

Apparently because it's aviation grade...  ::)
Still a bargain, can hardly buy a Nando's meal for that price and it's gone in sixty seconds  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on October 01, 2016, 06:46:28 am
Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 01, 2016, 09:29:56 pm
Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

I went on the lookout for them and they have similar ones on specifically the BMW 1200 GS and on Honda XR650L, probably the other models too.

Although this might be the best long term solution, I have fixed the problem for now.

My solution? A Square Peg in a Round Hole  :thumleft:

The flat square nut pulls into the barrel and edges itself into the plastic, preventing itself from turning. There's a convenient little shoulder at the very end of the barrel that prevents it from pulling through.

I'll still have a look at other options, as I'm sure that the quarter turn D-link setup will be a better permanent solution, but this will do for now.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 01, 2016, 09:42:23 pm
Now for the spark plug boffins...

The plug that I removed was an NGK CPR88EIX, which is an Iridium spark plug. The parts manual just prescribes the NGK CPR8E range and I couldn't find the Iridium ones from anybody in the Cape Town area, so I grabbed the CPR8EK.

I'm guessing that it will be close enough to run and even though the Iridium one is supposedly better, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference?

[EDIT] Found this thread on AdvRider (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/are-the-ngk-cr8eix-any-better.440069/) that talks about the differences. Looks like it might be worth serching for those Iridium plugs after all...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 01, 2016, 09:54:57 pm
I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on October 02, 2016, 07:19:17 am
Now for the spark plug boffins...

The plug that I removed was an NGK CPR88EIX, which is an Iridium spark plug. The parts manual just prescribes the NGK CPR8E range and I couldn't find the Iridium ones from anybody in the Cape Town area, so I grabbed the CPR8EK.

I'm guessing that it will be close enough to run and even though the Iridium one is supposedly better, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference?

[EDIT] Found this thread on AdvRider (http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/are-the-ngk-cr8eix-any-better.440069/) that talks about the differences. Looks like it might be worth serching for those Iridium plugs after all...


I do use the iridium plugs most often but a lot of the hype is just that - hype. The main advantage of an iridium plug is really only that it lasts longer due to the material used for the electrode.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on October 02, 2016, 07:19:43 am
Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

I went on the lookout for them and they have similar ones on specifically the BMW 1200 GS and on Honda XR650L, probably the other models too.

Although this might be the best long term solution, I have fixed the problem for now.

My solution? A Square Peg in a Round Hole  :thumleft:

The flat square nut pulls into the barrel and edges itself into the plastic, preventing itself from turning. There's a convenient little shoulder at the very end of the barrel that prevents it from pulling through.

I'll still have a look at other options, as I'm sure that the quarter turn D-link setup will be a better permanent solution, but this will do for now.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on October 02, 2016, 07:23:51 am
I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

Is it just me or is that a crack in the frame?  ::) OK worked it out its just the light effect at the edge of the reinforcement. :biggrin:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on October 02, 2016, 07:24:28 am
Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

I went on the lookout for them and they have similar ones on specifically the BMW 1200 GS and on Honda XR650L, probably the other models too.

Although this might be the best long term solution, I have fixed the problem for now.

My solution? A Square Peg in a Round Hole  :thumleft:

The flat square nut pulls into the barrel and edges itself into the plastic, preventing itself from turning. There's a convenient little shoulder at the very end of the barrel that prevents it from pulling through.

I'll still have a look at other options, as I'm sure that the quarter turn D-link setup will be a better permanent solution, but this will do for now.

Looks like a good fix - I would be tempted add some Q-Bond in the gaps around the square bolt (screw in a sacrificial bolt to ensure one gets in the thread). Nice thing is you can get the powder exactly where you want it before adding the catalyst/superglue. Q-Bond is a must have in any workshop.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on October 02, 2016, 07:26:04 am
I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

Is it just me or is that a crack in the frame?  ::)

It is just you and your ageing eyesight!  :lol8:  That is the edge of the mounting bracket look on the other side and you will see. Yes is a bit of an optical illusion  ;)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on October 02, 2016, 07:43:22 am
I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

Is it just me or is that a crack in the frame?  ::)

It is just you and your ageing eyesight!  :lol8:  That is the edge of the mounting bracket look on the other side and you will see. Yes is a bit of an optical illusion  ;)

Getting old is not for sissies. 3 Weeks since I hit the ground hard, the purple bruise are starting to fade and the collarbone is out of the sling, but us old toppies don't bounce so well any more. Funniest reaction was from one of the works managers, who was quite impressed that I could still ride offroad.... ::) :biggrin: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 02, 2016, 08:38:15 am
I do use the iridium plugs most often but a lot of the hype is just that - hype. The main advantage of an iridium plug is really only that it lasts longer due to the material used for the electrode.

My thoughts exactly.

As for the Q-bond on the airbox cover in the barrels where the square nuts are - that would turn this into a permanent fix and going backwards from there would be near impossible without breaking the plastic, so I'm going to leave this as it stands.

This temporarily solution will be good enough (easy, clean, cheap) until I figure out what I want to do as a permanent solution. I'm still tempted to go the filter route that you proposed, but I might do it a bit different. For now, I just want to get the bike on the road again...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Rough Rider on October 03, 2016, 12:19:56 pm
There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 03, 2016, 12:49:22 pm
There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.

And you think that it's an easier/quicker fix than my square bolt solution? ???
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on October 03, 2016, 03:07:29 pm
I "fixed" mine with Sikadur AP All Purpose Epoxy Adhesive Paste.

I use inverted comas as I haven't tested the end result yet, but it seems very strong
 
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 03, 2016, 03:25:01 pm
Got some feedback from our local Honda dealership in Cape Town. They're also charging R100 ex vat, just for the D-link stud.  ???
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Rough Rider on October 03, 2016, 03:48:21 pm
There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.

And you think that it's an easier/quicker fix than my square bolt solution? ???

All mechanics the world over use the method I descried so of course yours is better... WTF was I thinking? 
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 03, 2016, 04:10:40 pm
There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.

And you think that it's an easier/quicker fix than my square bolt solution? ???

All mechanics the world over use the method I descried so of course yours is better... WTF was I thinking? 

I'm sure that solution that "all the mechanics" use is better, but nobody said anything about being better. You implied "easier" , which I'm not sure is true. ;)

Simple test: How long did your "all the mechanics in the world"s solution take to implement? I bet you it takes longer than pulling the square nut into that round hole...   ;D
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Rough Rider on October 03, 2016, 04:27:24 pm
There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.

And you think that it's an easier/quicker fix than my square bolt solution? ???

All mechanics the world over use the method I descried so of course yours is better... WTF was I thinking? 

I'm sure that solution that "all the mechanics" use is better, but nobody said anything about being better. You implied "easier" , which I'm not sure is true. ;)

Simple test: How long did your "all the mechanics in the world"s solution take to implement? I bet you it takes longer than pulling the square nut into that round hole...   ;D

It is actually quite quick and easy and works really well, especially if you can't get the bolt out in the first place because of a spinning insert. Just be careful when heating the bolt head. 
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 03, 2016, 04:34:08 pm
It is actually quite quick and easy and works really well, especially if you can't get the bolt out in the first place because of a spinning insert. Just be careful when heating the bolt head. 

Thanks for the tip. This is actually looking like a more and more likely final solution, due to the fact that my D-links are becoming less likely. Unfortunately, I don't have a blow torch or even a heat gun, so it'll have to wait for now...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Rough Rider on October 03, 2016, 04:36:25 pm
It is actually quite quick and easy and works really well, especially if you can't get the bolt out in the first place because of a spinning insert. Just be careful when heating the bolt head. 

Thanks for the tip. This is actually looking like a more and more likely final solution, due to the fact that my D-links are becoming less likely. Unfortunately, I don't have a blow torch or even a heat gun, so it'll have to wait for now...

You can use a soldering iron too.

(http://i850.photobucket.com/albums/ab64/Jake_KXF/helicoil-installation-plastic_zpsyxt71sow.jpg) (http://s850.photobucket.com/user/Jake_KXF/media/helicoil-installation-plastic_zpsyxt71sow.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 03, 2016, 04:56:20 pm
It is actually quite quick and easy and works really well, especially if you can't get the bolt out in the first place because of a spinning insert. Just be careful when heating the bolt head. 

Thanks for the tip. This is actually looking like a more and more likely final solution, due to the fact that my D-links are becoming less likely. Unfortunately, I don't have a blow torch or even a heat gun, so it'll have to wait for now...

You can use a soldering iron too.


Now that I do have. Honestly never thought of using it in this scenario though...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 14, 2016, 01:29:47 pm
Thanks for your help with the parts order Archie! :thumleft:

Pleasure.  ;)

Picked up the bulk of the parts from Eddy2Race today. Will see what can be done over the weekend.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on October 14, 2016, 02:31:23 pm
Thanks for your help with the parts order Archie! :thumleft:

Pleasure.  ;)

Picked up the bulk of the parts from Eddy2Race today. Will see what can be done over the weekend.  :thumleft:
Much appreciated! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 16, 2016, 06:38:36 am
So it was quite a mission to get springs and wider washers into the slots! I popped into my Dad's spot, who happens to own every tool known to mankind.

This was our weapon of choice for this particular battle...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/561e7f2414a811831286c8099a89f87b.jpg)

After some springs and washers flying all over the show, together with "kind motivational words" towards the latter, I managed to get them all in place.

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/61c335bc183dcc5ffeb3e1fec44fd7a7.jpg)

Then we fitted the rivets and "tapped lightly" until they were secure...  8)

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/50296b26c2d663e8a964750035820e3c.jpg)

Unfortunately a broken dishwasher meant that this was all I had time for on Saturday... No, not because I had to wash dishes, but because I tried to fix the dishwasher. OK, maybe because I had to wash the dishes too.

Anyways, will see if I can start putting my puzzle back together later today...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on October 16, 2016, 07:37:53 am
Well done Archie! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on October 24, 2016, 10:46:53 am
So between family birthdays and work, finally got to a point where I started re-assembly. Now I just have to figure out where everything goes...  :imaposer:

BTW, I took the time while the tank and covers were off, to properly clean the engine. It's just much nicer to work on a clean bike!!!
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on October 24, 2016, 07:35:24 pm
Well done Archie! :thumleft:

Looks good :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 09, 2016, 11:30:53 am
Apologies for not updating here. I've put the bike back together and initially didn't fit the covers, to see if anything leaks or rattles. After a day or so of riding, all seemed fine, so I fitted the plastics and she's back to her normal awesome self.

Funny Story:
After the initial re-assembly, I couldn't get the freekin bike to start. When I checked the fuel lines, I noticed that I swapped the fuel lines to/from the pump/injectors. When I disconnected the fuel line, there was an burst of fuel all over my face! After about 5 minutes of cleaning my eyes and mouth, I fitted the pipes in the proper arrangement and voila!

Have been riding for about a week now, no problems.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 09, 2016, 11:52:40 am
With one eye open?  ???

 :useless:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on December 09, 2016, 04:59:08 pm
Good to hear and congrats :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on December 09, 2016, 11:02:33 pm
Arch, nice job on the clutch washers. It will last a lifetime now. Enjoy your Husky, they are great bikes.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 12, 2016, 03:01:56 pm
So the love hate relationship continues...

On Friday, I ran out of fuel at the 130km mark?  :patch:  Obviously the fuel light repair (that worked when tested in the garage) didn't do it's thing and I was left stranded. Luckily it was a mere 300 meters from the closest fuel station, but it was 5pm on Friday afternoon in 30 plus degree Cape Town city center traffic!  :dousing:

Anyways, that put aside, this morning on the way to the office, my clutch cable snapped right at the lever! It was about 2km from home and in the middle of town (again) with bumper to bumper traffic and multiple traffic lights, so riding without the clutch was not an option.

I walked home, all the way uphill, to go and collect our makeshift recovery vehicle. We had to fit the bike in sideways, but I was happy that it was easy enough. Luckily I had filled the bike to the brim, just the previous evening, so I would have petrol for the week... Let's just say it might take a while for the petrol smell to remove itself from our car.

Anyhow, all in all, no real damage, but endless frustrations. Not how I wanted to start this week.  :-\
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on December 12, 2016, 03:26:16 pm
Hahaha - the joys of owning an Italian bike.

She will make up for it later :biggrin:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 12, 2016, 03:48:08 pm
Hahaha - the joys of owning an Italian bike.

She will make up for it later :biggrin:

After this, I might be ready to own a Landy or Alfa. Still deciding which... #SuckerForPunishment  :ricky:

In fact, I might get both!
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on December 12, 2016, 03:50:50 pm
If you really want to be up shit creek buy yourself a BMW
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 12, 2016, 03:54:26 pm
If you really want to be up shit creek buy yourself a BMW

Been there, PAID for the T-shirt and some... Had a 650 Funduro, which ended up with a busted sprag clutch and a cracked barrel. Had to rebuild the motor! :angry7: :dontknow:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on December 12, 2016, 04:25:51 pm
Hahaha - the joys of owning an Italian bike.

She will make up for it later :biggrin:
True that  :thumleft: Don't think I ever worked so much on a bike than my 610, but still worth it when I did some lekker trips with it.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 12, 2016, 04:30:34 pm
If you really want to be up shit creek buy yourself a BMW

Been there, PAID for the T-shirt and some... Had a 650 Funduro, which ended up with a busted sprag clutch and a cracked barrel. Had to rebuild the motor! :angry7: :dontknow:

Well fuck me then you are unlucky - or the previous owner naaied it to death. I had a Funduro and they are bulletproof - they put that Rotax engine in microlights for a reason.  :3some: Loved that bike.

Regarding the cable - take it off and take it to Cableman or other cable people. They will duplicate it for a fraction of the cost of an OEM and quickly. They can even uprate it's strength a bit with a better cable. I had two made while about it. When you refit it check the alignment at the knurnled adjusting knob ... it can wear there. One can tweak it to eliminate the friction.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 12, 2016, 04:36:16 pm
Well fuck me then you are unlucky - or the previous owner naaied it to death. I had a Funduro and they are bulletproof - they put that Rotax engine in microlights for a reason.  :3some: Loved that bike.

Regarding the cable - take it off and take it to Cableman or other cable people. They will duplicate it for a fraction of the cost of an OEM and quickly. They can even uprate it's strength a bit with a better cable. I had two made while about it. When you refit it check the alignment at the knurnled adjusting knob ... it can wear there. One can tweak it to eliminate the friction.  :thumleft:

I'll blame it on luck. Or the lack thereof...

As for the new cable, I'll definitely use Cableman. I've used them before and I was very happy with their work. For now, I'm tempted to give the repair a go myself as a temporary solution...
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 12, 2016, 05:10:10 pm
To repair that cable you would need either
1) a cable repair nipple - great to carry with one in a tool roll. Consists of a nipple with a threaded screw to nip the cable and hold it in place) I bought a few from our Cableman but there are commercial sets from MotionPro etc)
2) ability to be able to silver solder or braze a nipple on the end of the cable.

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on December 12, 2016, 05:37:58 pm
Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 12, 2016, 05:39:53 pm
Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610  :thumleft:

There is a conversion like on the 630 but hardly worth it. A well oiled and serviced cable works just fine imho.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on December 12, 2016, 05:44:36 pm
Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610  :thumleft:

There is a conversion like on the 630 but hardly worth it. A well oiled and serviced cable works just fine imho.
But the pull will always be harder and not as responsive as hydraulic unit. I once rode some technical stuff once and my hands were stuffed (same happened on a CRF). But agree it's nit picking and not the everyday terrain you will encounter with the 610.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 12, 2016, 09:10:23 pm
So here's my temporary solution, giving Cableman a few days breathing space...

Step 1: Drill out old nipple, ensuring that it has a small hole in the back and more space on the front side.

Step 2: Fit nipple over existing cable, small side first.

Step 3: Create End Stop and pull into nipple, causing it to jam into place.

Step 4: Solder into place for further strengthening.

Step 5: Re-fit cable. Play loud music or make sure that it's really windy (as in this case) so that the neighbhours can't hear you swear and shout.

Step 6: Get proper cable from trustworthy suppliers ASAP.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 12, 2016, 09:24:26 pm
Or just nip a nipple  >:D
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 12, 2016, 09:38:57 pm
Or just nip a nipple  >:D

Will hopefully be prepared next time.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 13, 2016, 05:01:31 am
Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610  :thumleft:

There is a conversion like on the 630 but hardly worth it. A well oiled and serviced cable works just fine imho.
But the pull will always be harder and not as responsive as hydraulic unit. I once rode some technical stuff once and my hands were stuffed (same happened on a CRF). But agree it's nit picking and not the everyday terrain you will encounter with the 610.

I actually have a 630 hydraulic lever setup bought off e-bay some time back - just need to mod it into place at the casing. A 'to do' project that has got away from me thus far - maybe these holidays?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Scrat on December 13, 2016, 08:01:07 am
Hey there,

Ek het vi jou n clutch cable..
kas bier en hy is joune  ;)

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 13, 2016, 08:28:05 am
Hey there,

Ek het vi jou n clutch cable..
kas bier en hy is joune  ;)

Thanks, sal jou opneem op daai aanbod! Sien later...

BTW, made it to work this morning. I'm thinking that this fix is stronger than I anticipated. However, I'll definitely go for a replacement just for peace of mind.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 13, 2016, 08:46:55 am
Hey there,

Ek het vi jou n clutch cable..
kas bier en hy is joune  ;)

Thanks, sal jou opneem op daai aanbod! Sien later...

BTW, made it to work this morning. I'm thinking that this fix is stronger than I anticipated. However, I'll definitely go for a replacement just for peace of mind.

What you did is a pretty common and acceptable fix - so long as the soldering/brazing is good there is no reason it should not last for some time (so long as the rest of the cable is good and lubed). A cable oiler is a good thang to have  8)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 14, 2016, 01:20:20 pm
Fitted the new (old) cable today and it works fine... (Thanks Scrat!!!)

Only thing I'm worried about is that this nipple is much smaller than the one of the previous cable, resulting in more play which could ultimately lead to quicker failure.

I'm contemplating fitting something around (heat shrink or similar) to remove some of the free movement of the nipple inside the fitting of the lever.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 26, 2016, 09:25:57 am
So the fun continues...

We went to the dunes with some family and I wasn't riding the Husky. When we got back, I noticed that the gear lever was oddly out of position. I though it just turned around the outside of the gear shaft assembly, but after inspection I saw that the lever and the shaft were fully connected. I was worried...  :-[

After ripping open the side cover, this is what I found!!!

https://www.youtube.com/v/rfNEgx-GEHM

Looks like something stomped the gear lever REALLY hard and broke the shaft out of the gear changing mechanism.  :xxbah:


So now I'm waiting for this unit again.

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 26, 2016, 09:36:28 am
Any idea of whether this can be removed and replaced without stripping the motor?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on December 26, 2016, 09:59:22 am
Looks like it could be welded in situ (and may even have been done before?). Needs to be cleaned up and well marked to allow for a quick accurate weld so as not to transfer too much heat and probably cooled down quickly as well. That would be my first try.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on December 26, 2016, 06:53:15 pm
Let's see if it holds...

(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161226/1ad484858702dee6157f50f7ba77828b.jpg)

It's not the best welding job in the world, but it's really hard to get in there!

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on December 26, 2016, 09:11:47 pm
Maybe a bit late now, but you get welding rods for problem materials (read hard-enable steel) that will not crack off when welding dissimilar metals. Maybe worth running a bead of that around there. Normal rods have a nasty habit of cracking when welding metal alloys.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 02, 2017, 10:07:56 am
Let's see if it holds...

So the answer is that it help up for about 3 months before failing at the furthest point I've been away from home during these past months...  :-[

Luckily I could nurse it back home through 400km of Tankwa gravel roads. But now the question again, can I replace without splitting the motor. Perhaps Tito can help, now that Straatkat's motor is out in the open?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: sidetrack on May 02, 2017, 10:11:21 pm
Let's see if it holds...

So the answer is that it help up for about 3 months before failing at the furthest point I've been away from home during these past months...  :-[

Luckily I could nurse it back home through 400km of Tankwa gravel roads. But now the question again, can I replace without splitting the motor. Perhaps Tito can help, now that Straatkat's motor is out in the open?
You can only patch so much before needing to replace the parts. I would not have confidence in the bike if it was just welded like that  :-\
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 04, 2017, 12:54:52 pm
Ordered these parts today.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on May 04, 2017, 01:06:45 pm
Requires engine split?
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on May 04, 2017, 01:26:13 pm
Requires engine split?

Cannot see why it would?  8)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 04, 2017, 01:33:02 pm
Time will tell...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on May 04, 2017, 02:03:31 pm
Time will tell...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Part numbers 1, 5 and 4 are visible in the photograph, so I cannot see why the cases would require to be split.  8)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on May 04, 2017, 02:23:25 pm
Time will tell...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Part numbers 1, 5 and 4 are visible in the photograph, so I cannot see why the cases would require to be split.  8)

Tend to agree - was initially worried about that spring but see it is outboard.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on May 04, 2017, 03:39:27 pm
No engine split required
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on May 04, 2017, 04:10:18 pm
Personally I would still try and get a good weld on there, even TIG, and maybe pull the shaft to do it. I am guessing it was a press fit with a weld anyway.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on May 05, 2017, 06:52:25 pm
Personally I would still try and get a good weld on there, even TIG, and maybe pull the shaft to do it. I am guessing it was a press fit with a weld anyway.
Pull it weld it, heat it to 600 degrees let it cool slowly refit.  8)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 13, 2017, 08:53:03 am
While fixing the gear selector and rear shock, I took off all the additional frames, racks, screen, lights etc, put it in all together and weighed it.

It came up to around 12kg of extra dead weight being lugged around. That's just under 10% of the bike's overall weight.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Straatkat on May 13, 2017, 10:21:17 pm
You need some of that stuff. Cannot ride just wheels and engine. Bet you I can strip my 610 down to around the 120kg mark....but then it would be more of a trials bike.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 23, 2017, 03:40:17 pm
Picked up the gear selector shaft, bushes and springs so will give it a bash tonight and see how it all turns out...   ::)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 24, 2017, 09:25:58 am
OK, so it's all done and looks like she's running fine again.

Some things to note if you ever have to go through this (which I suppose it's highly unlikely):

It's a good idea to drain the oil before you do this, but not absolutely necessary.
You have to remove the entire clutch basket to be able to pull the selector.
You only really need the actual selector. It's a good idea to replace the rubber seal on the other side of the motor. None of the other bushes or springs were needed in this case.
The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/bc953cd227c9e07dca02e69530e3d249.jpg)

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/0651b6cda0185070fc9a588dd7fadfc2.jpg)

It's usually a good idea to replace the oil filler cap before starting the bike.  :dink:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/d2d7113545b8b6309aec64b2a8ba3447.jpg)


The gear shifting does feel a tiny bit tighter at the moment, but I'm sure once the new surfaces have "mated", it will be 100%.

Oh, and I replaced the serviced rear shock too.  :3some:

(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170524/56a58a970dff1f7b2647d176852c4e2c.jpg)
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: M3X3Z3 on May 24, 2017, 11:34:25 am

The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

[

I seem to remember back in +- 2011 there was a factory recall on the gear selector input shaft for the TE630 and SM630 (the 630 having the same bottom end as the 610).
The new replacement part had a slightly longer shaft.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 24, 2017, 11:46:53 am
The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

I seem to remember back in +- 2011 there was a factory recall on the gear selector input shaft for the TE630 and SM630 (the 630 having the same bottom end as the 610).
The new replacement part had a slightly longer shaft.

Thanks for the info! Good to know.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Kykdaar on May 24, 2017, 11:48:31 am
 :thumleft: glad you sorted and had a good laugh regarding the filler cap :biggrin:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 24, 2017, 11:51:03 am
:thumleft: glad you sorted and had a good laugh regarding the filler cap :biggrin:

I filled the oil, replaced the cap, idled for a few minutes to temperature and to make sure that the oil runs through all the parts. Then opened to top up, but was too excited to ride around the block, so completely forgot to replace it after the topup.  ::)

I felt like such an IDIOT, but it's too funny not to share, which is why I took the time go grab a photo...    :3some:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on May 24, 2017, 01:31:54 pm
Ja we all fuckup sometimes - years ago I forgot my oil drain plug on my 1150GS only ever do it once as you do not want to see expensive full synth bleeding profusely from your scoots belly  :eek7:

Which reminds me of the guy who used a screwdriver to lock the gears when doing the torqueing of the counter balancer shaft and broke a tooth it is so tempting but you want a softer metal and the 'penny trick'' works great (as does a breaker bar on the flywheel on the other side to lock it down - may as well check the nuts that side while about it).
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Welsh on May 25, 2017, 08:33:33 am
Ja we all fuckup sometimes - years ago I forgot my oil drain plug on my 1150GS only ever do it once as you do not want to see expensive full synth bleeding profusely from your scoots belly  :eek7:

Yes I think we have all done that one Dom, and disturbed the left hand throttle cable so it only runs on one.  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on May 25, 2017, 09:01:17 am
The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

I seem to remember back in +- 2011 there was a factory recall on the gear selector input shaft for the TE630 and SM630 (the 630 having the same bottom end as the 610).
The new replacement part had a slightly longer shaft.

Thanks for the info! Good to know.  :thumleft:

So I checked the recalls on this bike and according to Husky, there were no recalls for this model. Surely they should've recalled all the models with that same bottom end?

Anyways, the problem is fixed now.
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: BiG DoM on May 25, 2017, 09:15:01 am
The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

I seem to remember back in +- 2011 there was a factory recall on the gear selector input shaft for the TE630 and SM630 (the 630 having the same bottom end as the 610).
The new replacement part had a slightly longer shaft.

Thanks for the info! Good to know.  :thumleft:

So I checked the recalls on this bike and according to Husky, there were no recalls for this model. Surely they should've recalled all the models with that same bottom end?

Anyways, the problem is fixed now.

 :imaposer:  Husky was never like BMW with recalls ... only recalls were to the trattoria for a long lunch.

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on June 21, 2017, 02:29:44 pm
Just a quick update of her current state, riding as an enduro bike. The KTM tankbag makes for a nice tail pack, just big enough for a lunchbox or extra undies for the overnight trip.  :thumleft:

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=200172.0;attach=546659;image)

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=200172.0;attach=546660;image)


Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on June 21, 2017, 02:43:06 pm
:thumleft: glad you sorted and had a good laugh regarding the filler cap :biggrin:
Me too!

Well done Archie!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on June 21, 2017, 08:30:14 pm
Apparently, it's even good for a nappy run when you select "Collect at Warehouse" from TakeAlot.com on a nappy special and the supposed collector had to deal with other baby related issues...

Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: chopperpilot on June 22, 2017, 09:01:32 am
Versatile bike!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Archie's TE610 thread
Post by: Archangel on January 15, 2018, 10:26:29 am
Now unfortunately for sale...   :'(

PM me if you're interested.