Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => Topic started by: shanti on September 28, 2016, 10:12:44 pm

Title: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 28, 2016, 10:12:44 pm
Mozambique , Zimbabwe , Zambia and Malawi - a little trip to see the wizard ...
Just finished my brewery building and before I tackle the bar , water system and theme I thought to take a little trip up north to see how other people have done their bars .
As always there was some time spent preparing and looking at routes . I chose to leave at the end of June and be away for 6 weeks or so , just enough time for a mind and soul refresh and hopefully come back with some creative ideas on how to go further with the brewery .
My bike of choice - an African Twin DCT model , initially I was a bit nervous of taking such a big heavy bike on this journey and had spent time preparing my CRF250L for my ride .  Looking back there was some moments that the CRF250L would have been a better option but saying that I would have needed another month at least to enjoy the more relaxed style of long distance riding that for me small bikes bring on . I will go into more detail with my packing at the end of this ride report for now let's just jump right in .
Riding day 1 - Harkerville to Chintsa ( Buccaneers backpackers )  
Left on a cold morning - quite allot going through my mind , took the coastal route via Port Alfred to taste some Kowie craft beer. Met Jacque along the way on his XT660Z - he would ride with me in Southern Mozambique.
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P100.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P100.jpg.html)
 Loving the AT on the long tar roads even though my bike was feeling strange with all the baggage. Easy ride up to Chinsta - Buccaneers backpackers is my go to place in that part of the world , firstly because of their clean rooms and great bar and secondly an old friend from student days runs and owns the place , if you are in the area check it out  , it's a good stop over .
https://secure.staah.com/common-cgi/properties/b2c/Booknow.pl?action=showpage&MotelId=1207&Ln= (https://secure.staah.com/common-cgi/properties/b2c/Booknow.pl?action=showpage&MotelId=1207&Ln=)

Riding Day 2 - Chintsa to Port Shepstone ( Spot backpackers )
The Transkei roads are amazing to do on a bike - great twisty roads in very good condition. Stopped for a break looking out to Mandelas birthplace. Jacque and I had at this point decided on 70km stretches between breaks and that suited me fine - we were eating up the miles.
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000214.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000214.jpg.html)
 Got to Port Shepstone in good time to make a braai and to enjoy the marked increase in temperature . The camping at Spot backpackers was reasonable and the crowd there very lively with quite a few long stay residents from Durban working on a contract there fixing some machinery at a mine .
http://www.spotbackpackers.com/ (http://www.spotbackpackers.com/)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000216.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000216.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000218.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000218.jpg.html)

Riding Day 3 - Port Shepstone to Ballitto
Woke up to an amazing sunrise over the sea , my first of many as we would be following the sea up to Vilankulos for this part of the journey . The weather was getting better and again the riding was easy . Arrived in Balitto for lunch time and after some trouble got ourselves in the gated village where Jacques sister has a house . I never quite got the gated communities - for all the ' security ' it seems that a huge amount of personal freedom is lost , the amount of rules was staggering - a huge amount of money is spent on such a clinical experience , I guess coming from my farm and being here made the differences so much more obvious and I didn't fit in or feel comfortable there . We all choose our path so each to their own I guess. Stephan our third riding partner arrived from Cullinan on his KTM990 Adventure .
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000220.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000220.jpg.html)


Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 28, 2016, 10:21:12 pm
Riding day 4 - Balllitto to Kosi Bay (Utshwayelo Lodge )
Jacque and Stephan had some last minute things to do in Durban for the day so where going to hang for a further night in Balittoo , myself I didn't want to shop or hang around the gated community so I decided too path find for us and head to Kosi bay .
Again great roads met me heading North and suddenly at Hluhluwe for the first time I felt I was on an African adventure with my first sight of a baobab tree , woohooo here we come.
 Got to Kosi Bay by lunch time and after getting supplies for my food for the next few days - I intended to stay in Kosi Bay for a few nights as I had never been there I went out searching for somewhere to stay . My first place to go to was Kosi Bay Lodge and here was my first experience of deep sand with the AT .
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000223.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000223.jpg.html)
I was a bit overwhelmed at first and was paddling along until I worked up the courage and came to the conclusion that this style of riding wouldn't do for the miles of sand I had ahead , it took a few hundred meters of effort to get the hang of the bikes handling in the sand and I was very pleasantly surprised with the ease at which the bike tracks true in the sand and the ease of riding the deep sand with the DCT gearbox .
Got to Kosi Bay lodge to find out they don't allow camping and their prices were way too steep for me - returned on the road with much more ease  and made my way to Utshwayelo Lodge . Wow ! what a beautiful place , right on the edge of the Kosi Bay nature reserve by the mouth  . I was blown away by Kosi Bay - man we live in a beautiful country and Kosi Bay mouth area is one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever been to - everything you need - big sea to swim in , relaxed river to float around in and amazing landscape especially with the fishing methods of the Tsonga people .
The road down to the beach ......
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000228.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000228.jpg.html)
Little bridge on the road
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000230.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000230.jpg.html)

Jacque and Stephan arrived the next afternoon and we settled in for a bit of R&R on the beach . My being was becoming more relaxed and the groove was settling in nicely - early to bed and early rising - being apparent to the sunrise everyday has an amazing effect on the soul and being outside camping increases this feeling .
A few photos to give a feel for the place..
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000231.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000231.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000267.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000267.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000287.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000287.jpg.html)
Just chillin ..
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000262.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000262.jpg.html)
The Tsonga people have amazing fishing methods ..
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000285.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000285.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000296.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000296.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000300.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000300.jpg.html)
We spent time exploring the area , no bullshit , just relaxing , ok a little bullshit
 (http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000299.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000299.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000309.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000309.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000316.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000316.jpg.html)

I could have stayed there much longer but Mozambique was calling ..
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: DUSTRIDERS on September 28, 2016, 10:44:23 pm
Sub :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 28, 2016, 10:53:28 pm
Riding day 5 Kosi Bay to Catembe

Our host at the campsite had told us it was an easy road from Kosi Bay to Catembe with a 'little ' bit of sand in the beginning part but not to stress , just don't take the wrong road from the border post and all will be fine - keep left .....
With this is mind we headed out early the next morning to the border post .. The Kosi Bay border post is a very small affair and it went very quickly and suddenly Mozambique here we are , damn that was easy , off we rode oblivious to the fact that our opportunity to going left had passed - it didn't take us long to hit deep sand with no easy way to turn the bikes around
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000323.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000323.jpg.html)
- signs for Ponta appeared and we realized we were on the wrong road ..... anyone who has ridden these roads will know the various paths/roads that criss cross randomly heading in the general direction of Ponta - we kept left way to late but decided to carry on through the soft sand .....
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000326.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000326.jpg.html)
smiles at first but the going got harder
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000327.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000327.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000324.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000324.jpg.html)
hello sand - it would be our constant companion for the next 50km
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000321.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000321.jpg.html)
eventually we found the 'right ' road and the going got easier
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000322.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000322.jpg.html)
The AT was a pleasure to ride in the sand , even though the bike is heavy the torque is low down in the revs and it didn't mind chugging along on top of the sand - there was no way we could go fast as the road twisted and turned and in many places tracks went right over the road .
All good things must come to an end and we eventually hit a highway of sorts and we could now eat up the miles towards Catembe . Soon the entire road will be tarred as the Chinese are building roads in this part of Mozambique - lots of Chinese operators on the machines
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000332.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000332.jpg.html)
Finally my first 2M while waiting for Jacque and Stephan to catch up
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000335.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000335.jpg.html)
My aftermarket pegs got bent out of shape when I accidentally dropped the bike while pushing it backwards leaving my 2M rest stop - the metal is a bit flimsy on such a heavy bike
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000337.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000337.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000338.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000338.jpg.html)
Anyways lots of metalworkers in Africa - we pushed on to Catembe and stayed the night at Catembe Beach Resort
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000341.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000341.jpg.html)
Its the cheapest option for Catembe but doesn't come well recommended - loud music all night and some creatures where inhabiting the mattresses although it was beautiful to watch the lights of Maputo over the bay

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 28, 2016, 11:15:36 pm
Riding Day 6 Catembe to Nascar del Sol

Early start and headed for the ferry to cross into Maputo - little advice for the ferry - care of the touts who want to 'assist' you to pay - ignore them and just pay at the ticket counter , they act like officials and are helpful but they really just adding 'value' to your ticket
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000344.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000344.jpg.html)
I love ferrys and the trip was very relaxing
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000347.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000347.jpg.html)

We met a South African on the ferry and he inquired about our destination - we had planned for Xai Xai but he told us of a friend of his who owned a place a little north of that called Nascar Del Sol so we decided to head for there . The ride up was great and the roads well tarred . It took us a while too get used to the constantly changing speeds on the roads that are well enforced by the police - we found the best method was to follow the fastest taxi as they knew where the police where hiding and generally the cops stopped them first allowing us to slip past . 
And yes I found a few oasis along the way - some closer to home than I expected
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000348.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000348.jpg.html)
The road down to Nascar was a bit sandy but nothing like the Ponta roads - the place is beautiful and being out of season we managed to organize a house for us at a very cheap price , beautiful place albeit quite tame .
 (http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000353.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000353.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000375.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000375.jpg.html)
we chilled here for a few daze .....
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 28, 2016, 11:32:53 pm
Riding Day 7 Nascar Del Sol to Tofu

Beautiful leaving Nascar - nothing like a sand road when you are fresh and not tired

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000379.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000379.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000382.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000382.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000383.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000383.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000387.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000387.jpg.html)

Along the way I stopped off at a local metalworker to sort my peg out ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000389.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000389.jpg.html)

a bit of gas and some leverage and sorted ... kinda .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000390.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000390.jpg.html)

Mozambican roadside repair shop - you see these often so don't stress if you bend or break something metal - just keep a good eye on the proceedings ;)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000392.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000392.jpg.html)

We arrived after an easy ride at Fatimas in Tofu and camped there . We would stay here for a few days to sort out cell phones , wake up late and spend our days swimming and nights searching for bars that had the grande 2M at cheap prices - lots of fun , lots of relaxing and loots of piri piri
Fatimas campsite
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000395.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000395.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000397.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000397.jpg.html)

Not too bad a view ....

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000398.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000398.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000399.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000399.jpg.html)

The bar at Fatimas

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000404.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000404.jpg.html)



Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 12:00:48 am
Riding Day 8 Tofu to Vilankulos

Another easy day riding with the usual speed up slow down dodging of the traffic cops , we had a small fuel issue with the KTM but made the petrol station with some sips to spare - In retrospect you should never have any issues with fuel in Mozambique - every little town has a guy with container fuel but we were still fresh into our journey and didn't know to look .

The view from a bar heading north - I love having a cold beer and staring at bikes , oh and the scenery

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000407.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000407.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000410.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000410.jpg.html)

Kids off to school

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000408.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000408.jpg.html)

We crossed the tropic of Capricorn - was great to cross it in another country , this would be my third country to cross the tropic , only Botswana left but thats for another ride ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000411.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000411.jpg.html)

Vilankulos is another beautiful place and we chose to stay at Baobab beach backpackers which is a great choice - a good restaurant , friendly staff , good vibe with the other travelers and great bar .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000419.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000419.jpg.html)

Doing what we do best .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000422_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000422_1.jpg.html)

One of the main attractions in Vilankulos has to be a boat ride and snorkeling ( diving would be better if you can afford it) in the Bazaruto Islands - photos cant do it justice - amazing place , one of my most surreal moments was seeing the pink flamingos off the islands - my camera battery had died at this point but it remains clear in my mind ...

heading out

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000430.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000430.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000441.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000441.jpg.html)

Bazaroto Island where we would have a fish braai

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000440.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000440.jpg.html)

mucking around in the beautiful clear water

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000451.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000451.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000454.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000454.jpg.html)

and some fish - wow , so many fish

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000465.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000465.jpg.html)

we  would spend some time here in Vilankulos - these beach bars are hard to leave and the stories from the north were getting ominous - armoured convoys and shootings on the north south road to Chimoio





Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on September 29, 2016, 02:54:43 am
Wow, this looks like a great trip you had, nice bike too!

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: edgy on September 29, 2016, 03:39:24 am
Awesome trip so far! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Oubones on September 29, 2016, 04:39:02 am
Nice RR!
No hassles getting the bike through the control at kosi mouth?
It is interesting to see that tree is still there!
I took a photo when I was there and a lady asked for it in order for her to paint it!
Lekker cold beers at the top when you come out!
Keep it up!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Fudge on September 29, 2016, 07:21:32 am
 :ricky:  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Kykdaar on September 29, 2016, 08:21:55 am
Sub.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: FrancoisTz on September 29, 2016, 09:11:55 am
Nice report. That Ponta sand is so deep and soft, must have been quite a struggle, well done.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 09:33:38 am
Riding day 8 Vilankulos to Chimoio

After trying to get as much information as possible about the armoured column we left early for the Save River to Mexungue leg .
The backpackers had told us there was 2 per day , one early and one in the afternoon , we were under the impression that this meant 2 heading north per day so we woke up early and tried to reach the Save river bridge by 9am when we thought the convoy was leaving . After Vilankulos the road starts to get bad with giant potholes appearing on the road .
We were making good time when Stephan hit a pothhole with only 10km to go to reach the start of the convoy -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000476.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000476.jpg.html)

Try as we could there was no way we would make the time we thought the first convoy would leave , not 5km further and the tyre was down again forcing us to slow everything down and accept that we would not make it

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000480.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000480.jpg.html)

We reached Save just after 9am only to find out some facts about the convoys - yes there is two convoys per day but only one each way - the Save convoy going north leaves at 1pm heading north , it was the south bound one that leaves early in the morning .
Save bridge town was a weird place , on the edge of the new civil war there was a nervous energy about the place  , trucks and buses were arriving all the time to get ready for the afternoon convoy , photography was not allowed and there was a huge police/military presence .

 a view towards Save bridge

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000482.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000482.jpg.html)

some of the interesting buses that were starting to arrive to wait on the convoy - good packing hey

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000483.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000483.jpg.html)

At 1pm we crossed the bridge only to be assembled by the police about a km after the bridge in some sort of convoy , and there we waited ......

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000485.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000485.jpg.html)

Eventually at 3pm we left for Mexungue - it was chaos led by a Russian APC - the road on this stretch had degenerated into a pothole filled obstacle course with burnt vehicles lining the side of the road every now and then - I counted 23 burnt vehicles on this 100km stretch of road , the Mozambican government is trying to keep this stretch out of the press and trying to get a photo was very difficult

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010877.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010877.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000493.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000493.jpg.html)

We arrived in Mexungue at sunset and the town was wild with drunken people in the streets and trucks flying through the town pushing for Inchope were they would spend the night waiting on the next leg north . My GPS did not indicate a place to stay in the town and asking around just put us in the limelight of the drinking chaos which was getting a bit heated so we decided to push on .

Riding at night in Africa is bad , added to this was a pothole filled road with trucks heading north as fast as possible without a care for road conditions made this stretch of road a living nightmare .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010888.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010888.jpg.html)

Somewhere along the road while overtaking a truck I hit a huge pothole - the results were disastrous :( -- both front and back wheels badly damaged , I was lucky to stay upright ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/IMG-20160804-WA0001.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/IMG-20160804-WA0001.jpg.html)

We made Chimoio by 10pm exhausted from the concentration and me worried about my wheels and thinking that if I couldn't find somewhere to fix my rims my journey would be over .

 


Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: edgy on September 29, 2016, 09:38:23 am
Fortunately you didnt have tubeless!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 09:46:27 am
Fortunately you didnt have tubeless!! :thumleft:

Honda had some wisdom here , the hit my wheels took was huge and I think had I had tubeless I would have punctured both tyres and been stuck at the side of the road having to put tubes in anyway - as it was I bumped through Africa for the next 7000km or so on my damaged rims - most times couldn't tell if it was the road surface or my wheels that was bumping at low speed :) trying get a rim fixed north of our border proved difficult
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 09:50:44 am
Big thanks to Operator who was looking after my insurance - I now have two new shiny wheels on my bike - Operator I cannot thank you enough for your service and if anyone is looking for great insurance go no further than Operator on this forum - Dewald you are a true operator when it comes to bike insurance in Africa .
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: jeff on September 29, 2016, 10:22:30 am
Subscribed ;D ;D
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 10:35:04 am
Riding Day 9 Chimoio to Nyanga National Park

My decision was made - to carry on with my journey and take it as it comes with regards to my rims . I pumped the tyres up to 2.8 ( i would ride with this pressure for the rest of my journey ) and carried on .
Having had enough of the convoys I decided to avoid the Vanduzi to Tete convoy - riding a 300km stretch in a convoy that doesn't stop on a bike was not what me nor my arse wanted - and head in Zimbabwe .

The border crossing was again easy the only problem proved to be the lack of dollars in small denominations to pay the various road taxes and import duties , I took a bit of a hit with the exchange rates through the money touts and lost a couple of hundred rands in my exchange for $200 that would see me through the rest of Zimbabwe and beyond . It was at the border post that I said goodbye to Jacque and Stephan as their time was up and they headed south for the Zim ruins - I love solo riding on bikes and even with the niggling thoughts about my rims I was happy to be carrying on alone

Cheers guys it was great riding with you

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000499.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000499.jpg.html)

I headed into Mutare for some lunch and to try find someone with knowledge of fixing bike rims - this proved unsuccessful and I headed out towards the Nyanga National Park . The road conditions are great in this part of Zim and my ride was uneventful - I was enjoying the signage now being in english and the countryside is very beautiful .  

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000500.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000500.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000508.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000508.jpg.html)

I reached Nyanga national park by nightfall and settled down in a deserted campsite

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000505.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000505.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000512.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000512.jpg.html)

It is quite cold up there in the mountains and I was very happy with the hot water and the fire under the donkey - the stars were amazing and them and a bottle of whiskey kept me good company for the night  - there is something amazing about being with oneself out in nature under a carpet of stars , the chatter dies down and the soul is at ease .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000515.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000515.jpg.html)

The next morning I had an attempt at trying too fix my wheels - I had bought a rubber mallet in Mutare and thought I could gently convince my rim to return to its original configuration - no chance and further acceptance that I would just have to live with what had been given to me .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000517.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000517.jpg.html)

I did stuff some tape into the gaps to try stop sand getting to my tube and wearing it through - this was my best solution for carrying on and surprisingly the tape stayed in .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000519.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000519.jpg.html)

The campsite there was deserted and after a morning fiddling I rode around the park seeing the different sights

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000520.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000520.jpg.html)

That evening I had an incredible meal at the Rhodes Hotel which is in the park , a slice of colonial heaven with great food and a decent bar with a fire .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000523.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000523.jpg.html)

Did I mention it was cold - that night the temps dropped to below 0C and I knew it was time to head on ..






Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: edgy on September 29, 2016, 10:45:25 am
What knobblie tyre is that up front and how did you find it?
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Gryshond on September 29, 2016, 10:51:17 am
sub
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 10:52:57 am
What knobblie tyre is that up front and how did you find it?

TKC 80 - what a great tyre - lasted my whole 12 000km journey with mixed roads - would recommend this tyre to anyone doing an Africa trip - not one puncture - maybe that had something to do with the bent rim and pressure up to 2.8 ;) found it in Knysna at Battery and Tyre . Would also recommend the Mitas E07 rear combination - it also lasted my whole trip and gave good grip in the sand , rocks and good wear on the tar .
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: JonW on September 29, 2016, 10:56:11 am
Awesome report Shanti

I'm loving this  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Almero on September 29, 2016, 11:16:18 am
Awesome!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 11:22:02 am
Riding Day 10 Nyanga National Park to Tete

Woke up very cold , packed an icy tent and headed off wearing practically all the clothes I had packed .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000527.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000527.jpg.html)

The campsite was an icy wonder and a stiff whiskey got me going - goooood morning !

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000528.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000528.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000530.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000530.jpg.html)

The scenery north of Nyanga is very beautiful up in the mountains but I was glad to be heading north in the plains of Tete

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000532.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000532.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000534.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000534.jpg.html)

Approaching Elim Mission where the tar ends NE Zimbabwe

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000542_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000542_1.jpg.html)

The beginning of the dirt heading along the border to Nyampanda border post

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000545.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000545.jpg.html)

Its a beautiful road and very deserted

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000549.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000549.jpg.html)

Riding on marbles for some distance was fun and my tyres did well

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000555.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000555.jpg.html)

even with a bit of a bump I was having fun

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000556.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000556.jpg.html)

Typical houses in the area

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000561.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000561.jpg.html)

Now I was told that there was a possibility of washed away bridges but I thought it would be a few drifts that were sanded over - I didnt expect this ...

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000564.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000564.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000565.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000565.jpg.html)

Oh well nothing ventured , nothing gained - it was a bit of a bridge for me in many ways - I crossed my fears and the river which was quite deep in some places with trenches that had been worn out by the water - other than goats and a small kid around I couldn't see anyone around to help so I had to bite the bullet , walk the river too check for a route and go for it - man it felt good getting to the other side ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000567.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000567.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000569.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000569.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000571.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000571.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000577.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000577.jpg.html)

My fuel was getting a bit low as I hadn't been able to find any around the Nyanga national park - I got a couple of liters at a small village - enough I thought to get me to the border post .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000582.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000582.jpg.html)

And off into the bush I headed ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000586.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000586.jpg.html)

At this point I seemed to be in Mozambique - the roads go as they please and international borders here are vague

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000596.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000596.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000598.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000598.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000601.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000601.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000604.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000604.jpg.html)

Finally made it to the border post - I had done 409km since my last fuel in Mozambique and I had a bit to spare after adding those couple of litres - the AT is quite frugal especially if you are not caning it and she goes far on her 18.8 litre tank .

The road to Tete is lined with Baobabs and in very good condition

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000606.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000606.jpg.html)

Bike security on the Tete road

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000609.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000609.jpg.html)

Got to Tete by nightfall - what a glorious riding day , challenged some fears on my own , rode amazing dirt tracks and blasted through the Tete at high speed - I do love my bike - she can do many things and as a long distance tourer I don't think you can get better
 



 









Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: jeff on September 29, 2016, 11:34:08 am
Very brave..... :o
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 29, 2016, 12:38:03 pm
Riding Day 11 Tete to Blantyre

After spending the night at Motel Tete I was a bit of a grumpy man , turns out that the place is Muslim owned and does not have any beer of any kind and I was really looking forward to my dose of 2M now that I was back in Moz , anyways nothing that riding cant fix and i was up early to head for Blantyre - I saw on the internet there was a Honda dealer there so was thinking about my rims again .

Leaving Tete - shit hole central for the mining execs and other well heeled travelers

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000611_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000611_1.jpg.html)

The road to Malawi is again good and the distance passed quickly

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000615_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000615_1.jpg.html)

The border post was quick and painless - again avoid the 'agents' posing as officials - they just want to extract added value to everything and if you wander around it becomes quite apparent where everything is quite quickly . As to exchanging money - be patient and dont be rushed  , check the rates up on your phone the night before or just when you are about to cross and dont accept anything less , count ALL the bills , establish for yourself how much you want to change and have that exact money in your wallet - no more and don't take out your money until you have finished counting theirs and are happy . The black market guys work in the margins of buying and selling so somewhere there you want to be if that makes any sense ..

After my dry time in Tete I found the first bar I could after the border post and started to sample Malawi's beers which seem to be all made bv Carlsberg - the bars in Malawi are easy with none of the wild element found in Mozambique just dont stay too long or people will get wind of the Mzungu at the bar and try get you too buy them some beer - I preferred the craziness of the Moz bars

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000617.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000617.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000619.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000619.jpg.html)

I got to Bantyre and stayed at Doogles which was empty and without people was characterless and expensive.
I found out that the 'Honda' dealer didn't actually exist and was told to head for Stanford Motors which has the biggest bike repair shop in Malawi

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000620.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000620.jpg.html)

No luck here and when the apprentice mechanics took out a huge steel hammer to fix my rims I decided that this place wasn't the solution , It was at this point I decided to forget about the rims and hassling about them and just carry on - it was kind of a relief to get to this realization , I had done everything I can .....







Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Rooi Wolf on September 29, 2016, 01:39:13 pm
Lekker trip bra..!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: cruizaman on September 29, 2016, 01:40:53 pm
Nice report, I'm enjoying every minute with you!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Slim Jim on September 29, 2016, 03:02:20 pm
 :sip: Koodows bud . I'm in !
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: bud500 on September 29, 2016, 03:44:23 pm
Ja man!
This is awesome.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: skydiver on September 29, 2016, 08:29:35 pm
Awesome trip  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Minxy on September 29, 2016, 08:30:55 pm
Enjoying this report so much, what an adventure! :sip:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Draadwerk on September 29, 2016, 09:19:11 pm
Very very nice. Keep it coming please...😃
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Bwana on September 30, 2016, 08:19:47 am
Hi Derek
Keep it coming this is great. You are taking me home.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Operator on September 30, 2016, 08:49:31 am
 :sip:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: vsousa on September 30, 2016, 11:27:06 am
Subscribed, nice RR
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: MellowJo on September 30, 2016, 11:49:27 am
That icy camp site was radical .....  :eek7:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Cota on September 30, 2016, 12:11:50 pm
Very Nice!! :3some:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Crossed-up on September 30, 2016, 01:51:03 pm
Great stuff - proper adventure riding! Look forward to the next installment.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: dirtyXT on September 30, 2016, 02:35:49 pm
 :sip: enjoying this!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: MiniDan on September 30, 2016, 04:15:10 pm
 :sip: - Sub

  :thumleft: - Looks amazing

 :ricky: - En lekker ry
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 05:11:33 pm
Thanks guys and gals - on we go

Riding Day 12 Blantyre to Cape Maclear

I left Doogles good an early thinking I should be at Fat Monkeys nice and early in time for a sun downer beer and my first swim in Lake Malawi ... Again the road conditions in the first section up to Zomba are good and the scenery beautiful with the Zomba mountains (?) appearing .

The Malawi cops are very well mannered and other than inquiring about your health and your day with a big smile don't much bother you , I guess smiling back and being polite helps too ,

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000624.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000624.jpg.html)

Pitstop for a few laughs and a cold drink - there are lots of small towns in this are of Malawi and always if you approach people with a smile - huge ones are returned

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000626.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000626.jpg.html)

My daily sustenance while traveling consisted mostly of fruit with the occasional fried cassava thrown in - traveling alone I always loved the brief company of the vege/fruit sellers and the bike always had them talking and trying to photograph themselves near it , yip even in dirt poor Malawi the guys still wanted a selfie with a bike for their FB profile

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000628.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000628.jpg.html)

I struggled initially with the kids - they immediately said 'give me ' whenever I stopped - its a poor country and I resolved to always buy extra fruit to hand out ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000631.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000631.jpg.html)

As in Mozambique cell phone towers announced towns in the distance

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000633.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000633.jpg.html)

Approaching Mangochi I was quite mesmerized with the tree lined roads

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000638.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000638.jpg.html)

I had spent too much time with the kids and fruit sellers along the way and sunset was coming , its my best time for biking , the colours always get amazing and there is something about the lengthening shadows of me on the bike that always gives me such a free feeling - its also a dangerous time to phaff around as night is approaching and well riding at night in Africa .....

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000644.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000644.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000647.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000647.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000649.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000649.jpg.html)

How can you not stop and take this in .... Africa you beauty

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000650.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000650.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000655.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000655.jpg.html)

Anyways needless to say I did the Mangochi to Cape Maclear road in the night - its a bit of a complex dirt road with corrugations and lots of ups and downs and way after sunset I arrived at Fat Monkeys - I got my beer but not my swim ......
Waking up too this wasn't too shabby either

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000656.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000656.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000657.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000657.jpg.html)

Some things came up in my being in the course of the morning , I had this sense of a massive separation between me and the local people , Fat Monkeys campsite keeps the lights on all night and is fenced off from the beach , I guess this is for safety but it does make for a surreal camping experience . The camping solution at Fat monkeys felt removed from the world and the experience diluted by the fencing , the bar was playing American action flicks at high volume - not my scene really ..... anyways I wander in words here - back to Cape Maclear ..

Its a fishing community and the people work hard to extract what few fish must be left at this side of the lake

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000664.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000664.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000667.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000667.jpg.html)

On moonless nights the boats are out in their hundreds with lighting attracting the fish

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000668.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000668.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000671.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000671.jpg.html)




 

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 05:25:16 pm
Riding Day 13 Cape Maclear to Senga Bay

I didn't quite get the vibe at Fat Monkeys so decided to head out early the next day . North was calling with the promise of cob ..

Bye Fat Monkeys - maybe with a big crowd it might have been better

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000677.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000677.jpg.html)

Heading north on the corrugated dirt road I have tackled a few nights previous

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000679.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000679.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000683.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000683.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000686.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000686.jpg.html)

Riding the dirt roads of Malawi is always interesting and nothing like being on a bike to get rid of introspective blues

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000692.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000692.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000695.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000695.jpg.html)

The road again turned to tar but the scenery was as beautiful as always

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000697.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000697.jpg.html)

I got to Cool Runnings in good time and settled in again in a fenced off garden . Even with this divide there was an immediate change - the owner of cool runnings a South African woman called Sam who I remembered from Cool Runnings in CPT is doing amazing work with the local community and spending time chatting to the volunteers from all over the world who gravitate to her place was a breath of fresh air and very inspiring to see - yes one person can make a difference .


Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 05:41:01 pm
Riding Day 14 Senga Bay - Lilongwe airport - Senga Bay

Helene my love had decided that my journey of bar research wasn't going to be a singular thing so had booked a flight up to Lilongwe to accompany me for the next few weeks and I headed out to pick her up .
Again the roads are good from Senga bay to the airport . I had given strict instructions on her packing and she did remarkably well and fitting her and her luggage onto the bike at Cool Runnings when we got back proved very easy - yay my maaitjie was with me ....

She did get a bit of a wild arrival into the Malawi pub scene - we found a rasta bar in Salima and she eventually had to drag me away - so much for making a good impression for day one .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000725.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000725.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000730.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000730.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000732.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000732.jpg.html)

Kuche Kuche ahoy ....   

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: arrowfeather on September 30, 2016, 05:46:43 pm
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 07:45:25 pm
Riding Day 15 Senga Bay to Makuzi Beach Lodge ( Chintheche )

We had heard of a place called Makuzi Beach Lodge while in Senga Bay and we decided to head up there . Having an over the shoulder camera holder now on the bike meant we could get some interesting images of some of the chaos on the way up

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000733.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000733.jpg.html)

The road north to Chintheche is fairly uninteresting , it being in good condition and the scenery flat . The only thing to look out for is the old bailey bridges that span some of the little sand rivers , they have sharp edges and could wreak havoc with your tyres if you arnt paying attention

Some brick making on route - this is quite a common sight in Malawi

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000735.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000735.jpg.html)

Biking is not really Helene's thing and we had to stop quite often to rest , as the journey progressed she would love it more and more and is now even suggesting bike rides for the two of us

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000738.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000738.jpg.html)

North of Nkhotakota the road gets more interesting and some of the views of the lake are spectacular . Eventually we reached the turn off for Makuzi Beach Lodge , touring the lake of Malawi you are always faced with a sand road at the end of the day , some short , some long and in this case a 4km sandy road winding its way through a village and down to the bay . Helene and I were still coming to grips with 2 up sand riding and we took a few slow speed tumbles - we would get better but for now Helene elected to walk some of the deeper sections .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000745.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000745.jpg.html)

Makuzi Beach Lodge is AMAZING !!!! and for any of you heading up to that part of the world I don't think you can get better beach camping in Malawi - waking up here with my love was icing on a beautiful cake

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000756.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000756.jpg.html)

and the bike got to enjoy a few joys of womanly company too ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000759.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000759.jpg.html)

A view of the bay , bar and campsite from the water

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000782.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000782.jpg.html)

Sunrise over Lake Malawi - heaven ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000831.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000831.jpg.html)

ET phone home .. we were having lots of fun and spent quite a few daze here

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000838.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000838.jpg.html)

Helene being more spiritual about the whole thing

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000840.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000840.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 07:52:23 pm
Still here at Makuzi and the artist in me got to have some fun too ...

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000852.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000852.jpg.html)

I took to snorkeling like a fish in water and my skin almost turned permanently wrinkled - time to move on before we grew fins

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000884.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000884.jpg.html)

Bye Makuzi Beach Lodge - can't say enough about this place - the hosts Lara and Brett are two of the nicest people that I have ever met - they eventually let us stay in one of their beautiful beach houses for a very good price - they have yoga there to if you are that way inclined

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000913.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000913.jpg.html)
 
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 08:17:11 pm
Riding Day 16 Makuzi Beach to Sangilo Sanctuary Lodge ( Chilumba )

Brett had recommended that if we are going further north and were still into the beach lifestyle we should head for Sangilo which was made famous by the long way down crew and described by Ewan Mcgregor as the perfect beach hang out . The road north is Fantastic - after Nkhata Bay you head into the rubber plantations 

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000915.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000915.jpg.html)

Here we purchased a rubber ball - yip one of the most appropriate things to have on a two up bike journey -- was it the cob ?

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000920.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000920.jpg.html)

funny how people sometimes take on the spirit of their job , this guy was turning into a rubber ball - damn that cob !

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000921.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000921.jpg.html)

Any journey through Malawi is not complete without the obligatory Sobo cherry plum , sweet joy in a bottle

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000928.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000928.jpg.html)

Shopping for supplies on the Nkhata bay to Mzuzu stretch - its a beautiful windy stretch going through mountains

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000934.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000934.jpg.html)

Riding along in a blissful state can sometimes lead to fuel miscalculations - you pay a little over normal price for these fuel stops but the guys are doing brisk business and the fuel is good and clean 

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000942.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000942.jpg.html)

To add to our growing collection of rubber balls and other silliness Helene now had decided that cloth shopping was on the cards - this is as far from my adventurous sand riding from previous weeks as I could get - just grin a bear it , the view is better anyway

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000944.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000944.jpg.html)

I found other fascinations in the hand painted police signs

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000946.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000946.jpg.html)

Sangilo was close so we were not rushed , a great day of riding with plenty of laughs
Sangilo was a great place , the host Mark a very keen biker and he kept us entertained with his stories about the long way down crowd and the road up to Livingstone , the death of many large adventure bikes - pics to follow ... running out of page





Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 08:23:10 pm
Sangilo's bar at sunrise

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000954.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000954.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000956.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000956.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000965.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000965.jpg.html)

again the early morning artist was set loose

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000962.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000962.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000977.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000977.jpg.html)

One of the craziest things I have ever seen - Lake flies - huge swarms of these fuckers that look like clouds over the lake - I say fuckers to quote Mark as when they hit the shore they wreck beach bars like shit hitting a fan - their bodies get stuck in the fridges , in every nook and cranny and they don't smell too pleasant once they start dying - oh and the Malawians eat them too

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000978.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000978.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000979.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000979.jpg.html)

We spent a few days here but soon it was time to try the notorious road to Livingstonia , straight up a mountain here we come

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 08:47:40 pm
Riding Day 17 Sangilo to Mushroom Permaculture Farm ( Livingstonia )

I had tried the Livingstonia road when we had arrived in the area , it was late in the afternoon and I was a bit tired , I had gotten about a km up the road and had turned around and we headed for Sangilo- this is not a road you want to do at the end of the day , it is a sometimes near vertical rock strewn gully infested mountain pass and definitely not to be attempted in the rain - well for the sane anyway .
Starting up the pass fresh in the morning it didnt seem so bad ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000982.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000982.jpg.html)

on a few of the more hectic sections Helene decided to walk the short cuts meeting me when I had gone the long way around - its difficult with two up and the front wheel bouncing off rocks in thhe road while trying to turn an almost 180 degrees switch back - needless to say the concentration needed is evident by the lack of photos

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000992.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000992.jpg.html)

A well earned cob break at the top of the mountain in our A-frame at mushroom farm

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010004.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010004.jpg.html)

The views from the top are amazing with Lake Malawi way down below

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010015.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010015.jpg.html)

The Mushroom farm is a permaculture based backpackers , the gardens are impressive and due to permaculture being a huge interest of mine and the way in which we farm on our farm was very interesting swapping tips and stories RIP Bill Molison - you were a genius and your gift to hummanity will be long felt - enjoy your swales in the sky .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010017.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010017.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010018.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010018.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010020.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010020.jpg.html)

Moonlight over lake Malawi - no words

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010030.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010030.jpg.html)


Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 09:07:00 pm
A couple more pics of the less hectic parts of the pass

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000991.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000991.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000997.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1000997.jpg.html)

Thankfully further up the switch backs have concrete over them which made the going much easier

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010001.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010001.jpg.html)

Discussing permaculture practice - swales , guilds and water harvesting , they have just planted a whole lot of coffee trees/bushes ? so if you head out there in the next few years you should be able to enjoy some home farmed beans .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010041.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010041.jpg.html)

Talking of cob , we booked the cob house for a night - it has a shower that must rate up there as one of the best in the world - right on the edge of a cliff overlooking Lake Malawi - just wow

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010049.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010049.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010046.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010046.jpg.html)

and the great thing about staying in a permaculture farm - the salads , yoh the salads were huge , fresh and the variation massive - blessed are the farmers , I love you guys and girls .
We did the touristy thing a took a look around Livingstonia but to be honest I was more interested in the chilled laid back beats and giant salads at the mushroom farm
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010061.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010061.jpg.html)
VS
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010078.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010078.jpg.html)

Composting toilet and shower area

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010067.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010067.jpg.html)

A great place to recharge for the road on .....
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 09:35:38 pm
Riding Day 18 Livingstonia to Luwawa Forest Lodge ( Viphya Complex Forest Reserve )

A big day for us - our search for Oscars Mum had begun - Oscar is a Malawian who works with me on the farm , his children are in Malawi with his mother - he tried having his son around here in SA but struggled with schooling as he is very young - we are still trying to convince him too bring his son back to SA where we can help him with schooling , anyways , we promised to look in on him - we had vague directions to head for Edingeni Mission station and there apparently everyone knew Oscar and would direct us further . Today we would head for Luwawa Forest Lodge which is about 80km or so from Edingeni .

We took the back road out of Livingstonia via Rhumpi - this road is amazing but again with the amount of clay I would not recommend this in rainy season

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010081.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010081.jpg.html)

Old military bridges still doing their thing

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010090.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010090.jpg.html)

Road conditions

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010092.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010092.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010102.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010102.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010105.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010105.jpg.html)

The ride from Rhumpi to the turn off for the forest lodge is very good and after Mzuzu its speed bike territory with beautiful twisties carrying for miles and miles

Entering the Viphya Forest area suddenly we came across a strange sand - finer than talcum powder and hiding all sorts of erosion underneath - suddenly the wheel would wander on a hidden rut - it made for quite nervous riding

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010107.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010107.jpg.html)

Riding through the forest

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010110.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010110.jpg.html)

into the deep forest

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010114.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010114.jpg.html)

At the Lodge we came across the only other bikers I/we were to meet on our whole journey . A woman called Helen Lloyd ( a travel writer ) and her Scottish partner who were traveling Africa on 2 small Yamaha's - they had time on their hands and the perfect bikes to do it on - they had already done Nam and Zambia ( 8 months ) and were slowly snaking it north

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010115.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010115.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010116.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010116.jpg.html)

I did look at their bikes with envy and had some fond thoughts of my 250 that I had left at home , my next journey will be on a smaller bike which I will abandon at my furthest north point - I hate turning around - ha ha damn it wasnt I just talking about twistie heaven a few paragraphs up ........ 250 vs 1000 hmmm - man can never be satisfied , isnt that what keeps us coming up with new experiences , thanks be to that





Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 10:05:36 pm
Riding Day 19 Luwawa Forest Lodge - Edingeni Mission - Makuzi Beach Lodge ( because its so beautiful )

Up good an early on our mission , hit the talc before my coffee had said hello - amazing the difference in a road late evening to early morning - I guess being tired after a long day riding has this effect

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010119.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010119.jpg.html)

After about 100km we had the impression we where getting close - when we showed Oscar this photo he immediately burst out laughing , yes he had gotten drunk there 

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010127.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010127.jpg.html)

We head further into the unknown

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010125.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010125.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010138.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010138.jpg.html)

A long story short , no-one knew who Oscar was at the mission and only by luck did we find a kind soul who recognized the surname and directed us further into the bush - now we were almost by Zambia in the poorest communities I have ever seen , dirt poor as the expression is is so true , its amazing that Oscar had gotten himself out of here and a testament to his courage .
Oscars mum and his children - they even laid the table for us :)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010140.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010140.jpg.html)

The rubber ball finally found a home :)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010142.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010142.jpg.html)

enjoying some morning beer paid for by yours truly and so very happy to contribute

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010148.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010148.jpg.html)

We thought we would be quick in and out but they had other ideas  , Helene was roped in to make the pap and they proceeded to make us a huge feast , it must have cost them all their savings , we were very touched , in fact almost to tears , the warm warm heart of Africa

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010153.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010153.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010155.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010155.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010159.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010159.jpg.html)

Such kindness and generosity of spirit , bye guys

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010161.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010161.jpg.html)

We headed out a little late for our proposed destination ( Helene wanted to spend her last few nights at Makuzi , just her and I in a beautiful place )

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010164.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010164.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on September 30, 2016, 10:28:52 pm
The road from here to Mzuzu is amazing , here is a pic of the twisties and scenery I was mentioning earlier

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010173.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010173.jpg.html)

After a long ride in the dark - yep me again riding in the dark we got back to Makuzi and there to spend a few days in bliss

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010188.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010188.jpg.html)

Riding Day 20 Makuzi to Senga

Back down the coast to spend a night at Cool Runnings and then its back to the airport with Helene .
Was magic traveling with you

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010252.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010252.jpg.html)

Riding Day 21 Senga - Lilongwe airport - Chipata

Last Sobo before the flight

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010279.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010279.jpg.html)

Woke up early to get to the airport in time to drop Helene and carried on to Zambia with a heavy heart and a much lighter bike - Dust storms before the border post .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010299.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010299.jpg.html)

Got my first speeding fine - was not thinking and going flat out - suddenly two cops were ahead waving me down --- ooh dear sir this is beeg trouble - me grinning - are you sure ? Come with us , I get into their fancy car and they show me the radar reading - ooops ! are you really sure that machine is not broken ? grin . Then comes the rub - 10 000 kwatcha , now I had just spent all my kwatcha filling up with petrol and I took out my wallet and showed them my last Sobo money - about 300 kwatcha , silence in the car ........ dollars ? do you have dollars ? no sir only my capitec card , maybe we could drive around and look for a capitec machine - I think I saw one in Blantyre - silence ok buy us all a drink then - sure would 300 kwatcha get you all a drink ?  yes ----  patience and smiles , they are a good people the Malawians and they mean no harm , this wasnt to be my first time with Malawian officials and uncomfortable amounts of money .

Entering Zambia was a bit of a shock , very clean , the scenery very burnt and perfect roads . I headed to Mama Rula's and got hit by culture shock yet again - South African farmers , rugby flags and SA beers - I could have been anywhere in SA .
It was in this campsite I met a very interesting couple , Jules and Myrtle , they are quite famous as the dagga couple and needless to say we got along famously - they had a huge influence in my next travel itinerary but I will get to that in the next time ..... Destination THE WIZARD !

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Morne 1200gs on October 01, 2016, 06:11:51 am
Damm this is good, want more please.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Kobus Myburgh on October 01, 2016, 06:58:17 am
Hel, hoe lekker lees ek nou!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: landieman on October 01, 2016, 08:21:53 am
Brillianr  :thumleft: more please
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Slim Jim on October 01, 2016, 10:06:52 am
WOW!!!!!! :thumleft: :sip:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 01, 2016, 11:33:06 am
Riding Day 22 Chipata to Tete - a u-turn

Zambia had been giving me travel problems , I couldn't find places on route home that moved my being , I am probably radically wrong here  but the way home via Vic Falls and Botswana seemed to consist of long open roads in reasonable condition , hot weather and South African familiarity . I agonized about headed up to one of the parks and spending my last money on game drives , bikes arn't allowed in the parks according to people that I had spoken to. Zambia is all about big game parks , me on my bike I could just skirt the edges and pay big money to pop in on other peoples transport - nah not where I wanted to be , and after spending a night around the fire with Jules and Myrtle and seeing their pics of Vic Falls which was very empty it was with a heavy heart that I headed West to Bridge Camp , my first stop on the Zambian slog home  .

The road out of Chipata west into Zambia

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010303_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010303_1.jpg.html)

Fuck it .. I couldn't do it ... now during the course of the night Jules had mentioned that they where heading to Pembe for an eclipse party - on the first of September the direct line of the solar eclipse was going to be above the Pembe area ( Northern Mozambique )- a bunch off my kind of people were heading there - what a perfect reason for a U turn - Malawi and Mozambique were not finished with me and when I saw a turn for coming into Tete from the North I didn't hesitate , I got off those perfect roods with the biggest grin on my face and headed South to Tete

That's much better ........ wooohooooo let the adventure continue

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010304.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010304.jpg.html)

The road south from Zambia to Tete is a great road with sufficient potholes and small villages to keep it interesting , Zambia - maybe another time ...

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010310.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010310.jpg.html)

Padkos along the way - my leather bags on the front where my daily scavenging bags - its great to have 'free' bags when motorbike traveling and they were used to store water , food for the road and sometimes additional petrol .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010316.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010316.jpg.html)

Maybe it wasn't the party calling , maybe it was as simple as the traveling way in Mozambique not being finished with me , dodgy bars 2M and not a care in the world

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010329.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010329.jpg.html)

Made it to Tete in good time and camped on the great green Zambezi with a flying spirit

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010337.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010337.jpg.html)



Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: dirtyXT on October 01, 2016, 12:00:03 pm
wow amazing story! very good of you to go visit Oscars family! he sounds like character. good on you both!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 01, 2016, 12:24:00 pm
Riding Day 23 Tete to Tara and Daves ( Namizumu Forest retreat )

Riding with no expectations and no real destination I set off from Tete - I had a vague notion to head as far as I can and try get to the Mangochi area in Malawi so I can chase the sun and reach Northern Mozambique in time for the eclipse . Had a great day with people along the way and connected with so many beings on this way east - an affirming experience in a good space , the soul of adventure riding .

Entering Malawi again and at my many Sobo stops my bike as always gathered a crowd

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010350.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010350.jpg.html)

The Malawians even though in abject poverty are all trying to make a plan to get by - problems with your phone ?

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010354.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010354.jpg.html)

Getting the hang of taking photos while riding occupied my time

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010358.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010358.jpg.html)

Sadly there is not much space for the wildlife in Malawi - grinding poverty means even the smallest of birds have a space in some-ones stomach and a few kwatcha in anothers

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010359.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010359.jpg.html)

My resolution to always carry fruit around meant I wasn't ever long without a crowd of kids sharing my nutrients

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010365.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010365.jpg.html)

My side bags doing there thing in providing meals on wheels and provisions for me in the evenings

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010367.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010367.jpg.html)

Getting pretty good fuel economy on the slow roads of Southern Malawi - through the dust that's 24.2km/L

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010372.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010372.jpg.html)

Heading to a party meant looking good - now nothing like a shaved head when you don't have to do it yourself

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010373.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010373.jpg.html)

Make me look like Bruce Willis and don't hold back on the good looks , well , he tried  :lol8:

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010374.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010374.jpg.html)

Heading over the bridge at Mangochi towards the mountains where my GPS said there was somewhere to stay ( I was travelling with an old GPS and an old copy of Tracks For Africa 2009 , things were not as they seem as I would find out )

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010381.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010381.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010382.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010382.jpg.html)

My love for sunset riding was getting the better of me and my dalling around was in full swing

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010389.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010389.jpg.html)

Finally I reached an un-signposted road going straight up a mountain , my GPS had indicted that it should have been a km further back but on asking about the forest lodge I was told to head up this path

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010396.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010396.jpg.html)

Photo's never do justice to steep hills and the going got quite complicated for me and my loaded bike

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010398.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010398.jpg.html)

It had to happen , end of the day , tired and a very unusual angle for the bike to find itself in . This was a difficult pick up and it took pretty much all of my remaining energy to get the bike rubber side down again . I was very tired and still had a further few km's to go up this mountain

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010399.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010399.jpg.html)

When I finally made it to the top I was met by a couple having their supper , this was not a lodge as such and was their private house which they share on invitation with writers , artists , scholars and intellectuals ..... I was broken and there was no way I was heading down that mountain ......... they both looked at me and smiled , welcome traveler , have you eaten ?  

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010430.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010430.jpg.html)




Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 01, 2016, 12:26:36 pm
wow amazing story! very good of you to go visit Oscars family! he sounds like character. good on you both!

Thank you - it meant the world to him and our bond has strengthened , I am just amazed how he could have extracted himself from that grinding poverty with no education and money and somehow with a farm boys outlook managed to get himself south over two borders and find his way to the garden route to look for work . I have heightened respect for the migrant workers and their courage   
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: dirtyXT on October 01, 2016, 12:56:13 pm
absolutley! utmost respect. glad to see someone going a little deeper into the plight of immigrants and seeing beyond the cheap labour aspect. ive always found that the people with very little will gladly share you the most or all they have with a smile... carry on!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Fudge on October 01, 2016, 01:50:03 pm
 :thumleft: This has so been worth the wait!

Now get on with it! Curious to meet this Wizard of yours...  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 01, 2016, 03:02:40 pm
Namizuma Forest Lodge was an amazing experience in many ways . Dave and I immediately connected on many levels , one of the biggest being our discussions on water . Water and the energies present in water have always been a huge interest of mine and now with starting our brewery this interest has become quite important as the secret to good beer is in the water .
To find an individual up a mountain who has this kind of literature in his book collection is a very rare thing

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010412.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010412.jpg.html)

Our conversations ranged from Wilkes , Schauberger , Steiner to Fuller - my heroes of old and sadly not pursued enough - a lesson for me to go back to school . The potential for energizing the water of our brewery is vast , I am greatly thankful to this experience in knowledge and was thankful for my universe being in sync with my needs .
"bio magnetically surcharged concentrate of qualigen as produced by planetary forms of motion . When infused with drinking water it greedily binds excessive agglomerations of oxygen and purges the body ' - I will just leave that there ...

Namizuma Forest retreat is amazing and in return for fixing Dave's bikes I got too stay there for as long as I needed

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010484.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010484.jpg.html)

The whole place is off-grid and hhas some interesting showers hidden in the surrounding hills

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010415.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010415.jpg.html)

I was given a little hut up on the mountain too call my own and left to my own devices

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010413.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010413.jpg.html)

It was me and the baboons and the most incredible sunsets - a magical place and that combined with great conversation and a top class library made it very difficult to leave
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010453.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010453.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010462.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010462.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010464.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010464.jpg.html)

A natural pool and outside bath completed the picture

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010481.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010481.jpg.html)

Tara and Daves house - taking nothing from the world

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010483.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010483.jpg.html)

Quite a few days later I woke up and realized I can't overstay my welcome , knowing that these good people would keep gifting me I needed to say my good-byes . The ride down the hill was easy , a good metaphor for this place , hard to reach but with huge gain to be had if you are prepared to listen - easy too leave ..
check it out on the internet - http://www.namizimu.com/ (http://www.namizimu.com/)





Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 01, 2016, 03:42:20 pm
Riding Day 24 Namizimu Forest Retreat to Cuamba

Off the mountain and I headed to the Chiponde border post , its down an alley off the main street and I literally rode straight past it .
There is a bustling border town vibe here with all the usual cross border trade

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010486_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010486_1.jpg.html)

It was here I encountered my second run in with officialdom . When I had gone through the border from Mozambique to Malawi on the Tete side I had thought I would only need a few days to cross Malawi and they gave me a three day TIP , getting stuck on the mountain meant I had exceeded this allotted time and it was quickly realized by a sharp official . I was taken into the border post captains office and he explained that there is a 200 000 Kwacha fine ( R 3800 ) - he typed my TIP number into the computer and there it was - expired and the fine amount . I had this kind of money available but it would have meant me heading south from this point and not going any further north . I then told him a story that I didn't realize they only gave a few days to cross Malawi and informed him that I was given a 30 day visa so just assumed the TIP was for the same period . He was quite adamant that this fine should be paid or my bike will be impounded until I can come up with the money . I asked if there was a way to reduce the fine and he subtly implied that it would be up to me - at this point under the table I was putting 4 crisp R200 notes into my passport - I handed him my passport and asked him to check my visa to confirm my 30 days - he checked my passport and handed it back - seems if I could come up with a good reason for my delay he could type that into the TIP form and I could pass on - my dented rims proved a good enough reason and I was allowed to pass through the border .. Hello Mozambique for the fourth time on my journey ..

The road to Cuamba from the border post was the worst pot hole filled , corrugated road I encountered on my journey - bone jarring , hot , dusty and filled with huge transport trucks heading into land-locked Malawi

The tar or should I say ex tar didn't last long and for the first time the little islands of tar were the obstacles that could wreck your tyres - dodging tar became the game

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010489.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010489.jpg.html)

Children and cell phone towers on this terrible stretch of road

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010493.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010493.jpg.html)

Mozambicans are very colourful and doing my supply shopping always proved to be a riot of colour

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010496.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010496.jpg.html)

The road was relentless in the heat

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010497.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010497.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010499.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010499.jpg.html)

But by sundown I was approaching Cuamba

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010506.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010506.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010507.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010507.jpg.html)

I stayed at Hotel 2000 Vision something or the other - the bar downstairs was a hookers hang-out who were servicing the many truckers that were stopping over to give themselves time to do the Chiponde road in the day - a seedy affair and on the edge of being quite rough , fending off the prostitutes I had a very early night .













Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 01, 2016, 04:08:04 pm
Riding Day 25 Cuamba to Nampula

Leaving at sun up I was welcomed to the start of amazing scenery - there was strange mountains in the distance and I was heading for them

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010508.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010508.jpg.html)

The road was still an obstacle course but nothing like the day before

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010510.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010510.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010511_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010511_1.jpg.html)

Some serious rocks in the road made for slow riding , I had already learnt my lesson with denting rims and didn't want to repeat any past accidents

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010514.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010514.jpg.html)

The scenery just gets better and better

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010516.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010516.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010517.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010517.jpg.html)

the corrugations continued ....

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010528.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010528.jpg.html)

And then suddenly - the Chinese are coming - new new roads in the middle of nowhere - hey suddenly having that 1000cc under me meant warp speed , not a cop in sight , not a line on the road - just twist and fly

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010531.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010531.jpg.html)

even when they tried to make an attempt to stop traffic on their new road it made no difference - bikes they can go everywhere 

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010533.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010533.jpg.html)

the tar came to an end but if you want to enjoy the granite filled mountains of the Nampula region on a dirt road I would suggest you go there soon - the Chinese are hard at work making roads so they can extract the last of the wealth from Northern Mozambique

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010540.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010540.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010542.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010542.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010547.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010547.jpg.html)

2M because its hot and beautiful stop

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010551.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010551.jpg.html)

This is the most popular form of transport - the Mozambicans are very keen on their bikes and use them alot , I wonder why our poorer people have never seen the advantage of being independently mobile

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010552.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010552.jpg.html)

along the way I entered the town of Malema - maybe there is a good home for one of our politicians

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010555.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010555.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010556.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010556.jpg.html)

If I didn't mange to hunter/gather fresh fruit and bread I ate in the local eateries - chicken and rice can be found all over and is very cheap if the menu is not in English 

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010557_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010557_1.jpg.html)

Leaving Malema and back into the granite mountains

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010560.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010560.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010566.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010566.jpg.html)

ha ha because it just gets hotter .....

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010573.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010573.jpg.html)

termite mounds and granite mounds

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010580.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010580.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010583.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010583.jpg.html)

I eventually arrived in Nampula and had found a Portuguese run farm that provided accommodation and camping - pretty place and they were busy upgrading the place ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010585.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010585.jpg.html)

I was a bit disturbed by the signs - oh well good thing I don't read Portuguese --- something about wearing crocs around the pool I guess

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010511.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010511.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010512.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010512.jpg.html)
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010513.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010513.jpg.html)

I pitched my tent and tucked in for the evening

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010589.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010589.jpg.html)








 





Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Leo on October 01, 2016, 06:07:45 pm
Love your RR.

Why did you not go to Nkata Bay?
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Slim Jim on October 02, 2016, 07:32:58 am
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 02, 2016, 08:10:04 am
Love your RR.

Why did you not go to Nkata Bay?

After Cape Maclear and Senga Bay I wanted too find a more ' deserted ' beach especially with Helene with me . Swimming in or near the big fishing villages the water tends to be a little polluted and the locals like to stare at woman swimming . Also its difficult to go for a romantic walk without being hassled to buy art works and various versions of home grown produce - I guess we just wanted the quiet together . 
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 02, 2016, 08:34:25 am
Riding Day 25 Nampula to Pembe

Nampula is a very busy town , its an industrial hub for the area and I had to brave its traffic early in the morning as the farm I had stayed at was on the Cuamba Road side of town .
Leaving Nampula the road is tar and the giant granite rock formations start to get less . The road up to Pembe is in good condition apart from a 40km stretch of potholes , it was being repaired at the time of me riding through so this will change in the next few months/years . The scenery further north is a scrub land of small trees and charcoal sellers , the big trees are gone - I assume to China , Pembe has a the conveniences of a holiday town with a few big supermarkets , restaurants and banks - its a holiday hub and caters for the big game fisherman who want to go fishing in the area - the locals speak of large Chinese factory ships with their attendant trawlers in the area so this too might be at an end .
A few photos of the ride north .... I love my bike

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010602_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010602_1.jpg.html)

I tried too find the locall equivalent of the great tasting Cherry Plum Sobo from Malawi , I didn't had any luck and would have to resort too 2M for my breaks

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010612.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010612.jpg.html)

The beginning of the bad section on the northern road

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010615.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010615.jpg.html)

A typical small town on the northern road - unlike the south of Mozambique the police dont have radar traps but rather just stop you and check all your documents - mostly they were just wanting to look at the bike and ask how fast it can go - the speed limit of course !

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010617.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010617.jpg.html)

I stayed at Nzuwa beach lodge as this was the meeting point for the eclipse hunters and as always a sand road at the end of thhhe day makes for an interesting end of the day ride

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010619.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010619.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010620.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010620.jpg.html)


 
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 02, 2016, 09:17:04 am
Riding Day 26 Pemba to Tandanhangue ( Quirimbas Archipelago ferry )

At Nzuwa Lodge I found out that the gathering was in the Quirimbas Islands as this is where the epicenter of the eclipse would be - on the island of Quirimba . I was told to avoid the coastal route due to deep sand and washed away bridges so I did the 300km or so loop up the northern road . The kind folks at Nzuwa lodge agreed to look after a lot oof my kit and with a stripped down beach camping bag ( goggles , snorkel , tent , kikoi and minimal clothhing ) , whiskey , a huge bag of oranges , some basic food and 12 litres of water I headed north .

The northern road was initially good with tree lined roads

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010625.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010625.jpg.html)

Then the devastation .......... this whole region is being cut down for the Chinese woood demands , that that is left is cut down and made into charcoal - its a heart breaking sight to see and there is smoke rising from the bush everywhere from the charcoal pits

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010631.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010631.jpg.html)

The road became dirt and the enjoyment of the ride increased

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010633.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010633.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010637.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010637.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010638_1.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010638_1.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010639.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010639.jpg.html)

I reached Quissanga with good time , my window of the tide was getting shorter and I didn't hang around and headed the sandy stretch for Tandanhangue

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010645.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010645.jpg.html)

The road winds between houses and small villages

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010648.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010648.jpg.html)

Over the salt flats

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010651.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010651.jpg.html)

Until it reaches Tandanhangue which is just a tree and a place to leave your transportation to catch the ferry which operates on a very small tidal window

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/14364895_10153673132011652_785418855149601655_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/14364895_10153673132011652_785418855149601655_n.jpg.html)

I left my bike under a tree and headed out to the islands

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010715.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010715.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010714_2.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010714_2.jpg.html)





 
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: slicknick on October 02, 2016, 09:42:05 am
awesome stuff :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Morne 1200gs on October 02, 2016, 10:19:10 am
Very good indeed  :thumleft: :sip:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 02, 2016, 10:33:00 am
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/13055015_10156955398680372_5736454288155424844_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/13055015_10156955398680372_5736454288155424844_o.jpg.html)

Words dont do this part any justice - As the moon and the sun prepared to align, 30 people from 17 countries were gathering on a small island to witness the spectacular show. Its a remote place, everyone made a huge effort and travelled a long way to get there. Old and new friends worked hard to build the most efficient, comfortable and funky camp ever. We then sat back and watched the sky - the Moon cruising in front of the Sun. We had an absolute, unforgettable blast.
The energy was so high, it was unreal, it was magic.
Everything that is an escalation of awesomeness for the brave and wild hearts who decided to keep roaming Africa in a very unique way .

The following images have been taken by a very creative crew of people amongst them - Alice Bensi - https://www.facebook.com/AliceBensiThroughTheLookingGlass/ (https://www.facebook.com/AliceBensiThroughTheLookingGlass/) , Julian Graham - https://www.facebook.com/Aumega.photography/ (https://www.facebook.com/Aumega.photography/) , Jules and Myrtle

The reason -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/12705264_10153494985478095_1746402760054444036_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/12705264_10153494985478095_1746402760054444036_n.jpg.html)

The Place - far away on an island in the sun

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010691.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010691.jpg.html)

The scenery -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468465_566027326932449_6971957438172692510_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468465_566027326932449_6971957438172692510_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468204_566027450265770_7418222492067654468_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468204_566027450265770_7418222492067654468_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14435305_566017183600130_7661401017375944067_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14435305_566017183600130_7661401017375944067_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14457454_566027663599082_6616009609371123702_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14457454_566027663599082_6616009609371123702_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14434845_1331267580235031_2860067384507330970_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14434845_1331267580235031_2860067384507330970_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010694.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010694.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14567600_566427303559118_2611504554672053436_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14567600_566427303559118_2611504554672053436_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010696.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010696.jpg.html)

The food -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14480525_566515200216995_7299092501434070915_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14480525_566515200216995_7299092501434070915_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14324573_1872691309621524_646245996317694784_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14324573_1872691309621524_646245996317694784_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14390861_10153689900556652_8830986694325695610_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14390861_10153689900556652_8830986694325695610_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14203357_10153723535975614_4098012545039588495_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14203357_10153723535975614_4098012545039588495_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14567553_566515253550323_4050944481574868082_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14567553_566515253550323_4050944481574868082_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14141589_10153723537790614_6460305635102423226_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14141589_10153723537790614_6460305635102423226_n.jpg.html)

some of the people -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14485071_566429206892261_5578133242612183264_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14485071_566429206892261_5578133242612183264_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468727_566034063598442_5483396257528503812_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468727_566034063598442_5483396257528503812_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468681_566034430265072_3309679452651514777_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468681_566034430265072_3309679452651514777_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468610_566024926932689_5144936283539625802_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468610_566024926932689_5144936283539625802_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14446199_566034836931698_1715962844034051755_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14446199_566034836931698_1715962844034051755_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14440909_566034636931718_4262395966058860303_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14440909_566034636931718_4262395966058860303_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14524452_566488423553006_1864539329036333731_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14524452_566488423553006_1864539329036333731_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14542354_566036950264820_558838423406423530_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14542354_566036950264820_558838423406423530_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14525074_566037460264769_5690226746929666998_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14525074_566037460264769_5690226746929666998_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14525074_566019436933238_191292860474950865_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14525074_566019436933238_191292860474950865_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14519665_566514910217024_4780284960900865567_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14519665_566514910217024_4780284960900865567_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14517626_566015980266917_3158264178576653796_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14517626_566015980266917_3158264178576653796_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468597_566016893600159_1929332919794056466_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468597_566016893600159_1929332919794056466_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14542571_566033150265200_4273264836228282000_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14542571_566033150265200_4273264836228282000_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14543832_566037003598148_3563528338437335430_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14543832_566037003598148_3563528338437335430_o.jpg.html)

Yours truely :)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500696_566032970265218_9034715899299681098_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500696_566032970265218_9034715899299681098_o.jpg.html)

The eclipse -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500219_566036263598222_4268307859362735210_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500219_566036263598222_4268307859362735210_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14481732_566036386931543_6108676144634062476_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14481732_566036386931543_6108676144634062476_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14481928_566038023598046_4877387446152068552_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14481928_566038023598046_4877387446152068552_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14470614_566037283598120_971317903261942194_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14470614_566037283598120_971317903261942194_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500451_566037756931406_4909735478543429183_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500451_566037756931406_4909735478543429183_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14463258_566036760264839_4471321695899597930_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14463258_566036760264839_4471321695899597930_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14445146_566037880264727_2354265294544911190_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14445146_566037880264727_2354265294544911190_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468304_566034446931737_2588600996886811526_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14468304_566034446931737_2588600996886811526_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14440982_566032206931961_7183631177972609099_n.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14440982_566032206931961_7183631177972609099_n.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010693.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010693.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14543823_566027953599053_2043415070563335416_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14543823_566027953599053_2043415070563335416_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010692.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/P1010692.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14525011_566037913598057_7335861921353910348_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14525011_566037913598057_7335861921353910348_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14543828_566036333598215_761115401008513563_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14543828_566036333598215_761115401008513563_o.jpg.html)

eclipse shadows -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14542454_566034373598411_9219653025826252401_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14542454_566034373598411_9219653025826252401_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14324549_566037236931458_8307411890741953350_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14324549_566037236931458_8307411890741953350_o.jpg.html)

Some fun around the islands

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14480667_566489446886237_8295895030769062478_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14480667_566489446886237_8295895030769062478_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14305378_1872690272954961_7773138106659498295_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14305378_1872690272954961_7773138106659498295_o.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14435229_566037993598049_8960882438030035413_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14435229_566037993598049_8960882438030035413_o.jpg.html)

The wizard - hats off to this kind , loving , powerful , peaceful , gentle soul - Reza from Malawi for organizing this journey ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500515_566034726931709_1153343266844008556_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500515_566034726931709_1153343266844008556_o.jpg.html)

and after a plenty few daze it was time to leave - my heart is happy that there are such beautiful people in this world keeping freedom alive living with a huge generosity and bigger smile

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500299_566490090219506_4988048925224687243_o.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/triping%20Africa/14500299_566490090219506_4988048925224687243_o.jpg.html)













Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Fudge on October 02, 2016, 11:02:32 am
 :notworthy: "The feeling of awed wonder"
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Goingnowherekwickly on October 02, 2016, 10:40:38 pm
My word!!!
You have just lived my biking dream, so lekker to see like minded people, enjoying what we do..
I travelled some of these spots in 2009, brings memories fr
eshly up again..
well done, you have taken this journey with the right spirit, & been justly rewarded!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 10:01:13 am
Riding Day 27 Tandanhangue to Pembe - the short route

Leaving the islands is quite difficult with the short windows that the ferry's operate in - the area is hugely affected by the tides . I had to catch a 4am ferry and the only one I could find was to Quissanga . At Quissanga I managed to find a small motorbike taxi to take me to my bike . My fuel was a little low and I couldn't find any container fuel this early in the morning so I elected to take the 4x4 route back to Pembe . This would cut my journey down by a third and I could make it back with my fuel .

After all the warnings not to take this road it proved easy and is do-able on any bike with no worries

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010716.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010716.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010717.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010717.jpg.html)

approaching Pembe

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010719.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010719.jpg.html)

I decided to stay at Russels Place in Pembe and enjoyed a good evening at their bar with good company

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010720.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010720.jpg.html)



Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 10:25:58 am
Riding Day 28 Pembe to Ilha de Mocambique

I don't like turning around on bike journeys and now I found myself at the end of Mozambique with a long ride home . Its a difficult space for me and one where I had to work very hard to not make my return the destination and singular objective . I decided to head for Ilha de Mocambique - a world heritage site off the coast of Mozambique .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010728.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010728.jpg.html)

Aside from the potholes that I had previously encountered the journey was uneventful and I was much in my head most of the time to properly take in the sights ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010731.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010731.jpg.html)

washing day at the many rivers on the ride south

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010732.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010732.jpg.html)

Ilha is reached by a 4km causeway with small double sections too allow cars to pass coming in and going out .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010773.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010773.jpg.html)

Its an amazing place that has been left behind by time and a perfect break on the north south road of Mozambique

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010743.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010743.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010766.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010766.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010768.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010768.jpg.html)

I spent my time walking the old streets and drinking very good coffee at the various foreign run eateries in town . My bike was secure in the foyer of the place I was staying at it was good to be on foot .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010757.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010757.jpg.html)

With the un-official war happening further south it was strange to see Renamo buildings

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010761.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010761.jpg.html)









Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: edgy on October 03, 2016, 10:44:42 am
Wow i`m impressed! :drif:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: FrancoisTz on October 03, 2016, 10:52:49 am
Dankie dat ons met jou kan deel, wonderlike ervaring. Slegs ter inligting, Renamo is 'n erkende Politieke Party in Mosambiek dus sal jy hulle geboue sien, hulle is die amptelike oposisie en dus ook verteenwoordig in die Parlement, hulle is nie almal by die "oorlog" betrokke nie. Die Parlement is ook gereeld in sitting en dit is 'n voldag gedoente, nie so 'n afgeskeepte spul soos in SA nie. Ook baie dankbaar dat jy deurentyd veilig is, oor hoor so van tyd tot tyd van die aanvalle maar darem nie elke dag nie.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 11:03:50 am
Riding Day 29 Ilha de Mocambique to Nampula

Sometime around lunch time on my third day on the island I decided to get going and made my way to Nampula , my money was running out , my tyres were getting worn and I was missing my farm ..... apart from my usual road side breaks the journey was uneventful as the roads were good ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010781.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010781.jpg.html)

Riding Day 30 Nampula to Caia

Time to motor south - what a pleasure having a decent sized engine sitting on a comfortable seat makes and I made good time heading south - the road is again good but watch out for some of the steel bridges , the lip will tear your tyre apart if you are not paying attention

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010793.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010793.jpg.html)

I had an interesting 30km or so slipping and sliding in an oil spill left behind by a truck - I eventually caught up with the trucker and pointed out his pollution , the poor guy must have wasted hundreds of litres of crude oil along the way - I am sure his bosses were none to amused

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010799.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010799.jpg.html)

I could tell I was heading towards the convoys and the war zone as from Nicoadala onwards the Caia the road started to get bad again - must be pretty difficult maintaining the roads with the prospect of shooting around . Sundown and I was riding on a golden road on my golden rims - both feeling the effects of some bashes and attempted repairs - too beautiful

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010805.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010805.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010819.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010819.jpg.html)

Kids along the way

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010824.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010824.jpg.html)

Dodgems .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010828.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010828.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010830.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010830.jpg.html)

This whole region was burning , out of control bush fires everywhere , the sky was heavy with smoke and it made for an ominous feeling approaching the Caia armoured convoy assemble area

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010835.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010835.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010836.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010836.jpg.html)

The road also bore the effects of the civil war approaching - maybe this is one of the bones of contention of the local people - the complete lack of funding in infrastructure compared to the south of Mozambique - I'm no politician so can only hazard a guess but the area did feel ignored and the people un-happy .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010837.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010837.jpg.html)

I made Caia well after sundown and the town was wild ..... truckers dealing with their fear for riding the next days convoy - drunk as lords and the whole town has a frontier town feel to it - on the edge of violence and morbid drunkenness . I spent my evening talking to a trucker who was heading south and he explained to me that a danger pay system was in place for the truckers . He was nervous and it started to effect me too -  time to hit the sack and prepare for tomorrow






Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 11:11:41 am
Dankie dat ons met jou kan deel, wonderlike ervaring. Slegs ter inligting, Renamo is 'n erkende Politieke Party in Mosambiek dus sal jy hulle geboue sien, hulle is die amptelike oposisie en dus ook verteenwoordig in die Parlement, hulle is nie almal by die "oorlog" betrokke nie. Die Parlement is ook gereeld in sitting en dit is 'n voldag gedoente, nie so 'n afgeskeepte spul soos in SA nie. Ook baie dankbaar dat jy deurentyd veilig is, oor hoor so van tyd tot tyd van die aanvalle maar darem nie elke dag nie.

Speaking to locals through Mozambique from north to south its amazing the different opinions people have re the current crisis - the northern people feel neglected , the southern people advise not to head north , people in the middle ( Piet Van Zyl ) who runs the amazing Gorongosa Adventures also have their take on the matter . I dont get involved in politics that I am not familiar with and so wont hazard a strong opinion but there is a lot being hidden from the press re the situation , I counted plenty burnt out vehicles in the two convoys I rode with , from the truckers perspective they were all kak scared running these gauntlets and the fact that alot of them were receiving danger pay says allot to the conditions of these convoys - safe travels for all who go on them is all I wish ..
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 11:41:41 am
Day 31 Caia to Gorongosa

Woke up early and went to grab some breakfast - the truckers were still drinking and we had a long wait for the 3pm convoy leaving Caia south .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010846.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010846.jpg.html)

The convoy started to assemble at 1pm just outside Caia

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010866.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010866.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010865.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010865.jpg.html)

The soldiers/policemen all wanted cold drinks or to bum cigarettes

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/convoy.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/convoy.jpg.html)

Just before 3pm the lead cars occupants started to gear up , checking their ammo and putting on bullet proof vests

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010867.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010867.jpg.html)

Due to me being on a bike they insisted that I ride with them at the front , I was none too happy being so near the front target but its difficult to argue with a bakkie load of guys armed to the teeth . Photography is banned and strictly enforced , I did manage this photo with the lead car ahead

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/ridng%20just%20behhind%20the%20police.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/ridng%20just%20behhind%20the%20police.jpg.html)

The convoy was uneventful aside from the guys letting off a whole lot of rounds at what looked like grouse in the bushes , it did scare the shit out of me and the vehicles behind as they all scattered into the bushes  , I just stopped my bike and hit the deck . They military guys were all laughs and we carried on . The convoy reached its end by sunset and I still had another 160km or so to reach Gorongosa ...woohoooo night rides on the roller coaster between fear and elation

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010884.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010884.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010881.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010881.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010879.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/convoy/P1010879.jpg.html)

I reached Gorongosa Adventure park way after 10pm and was given a very friendly welcome by Piet Van Zyl and his family - if you are ever in the area his place is an absolute gem and he is a real gentleman and infinity helpful about the comings and goings of politics in the area .. 
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 02:12:22 pm
Gorongosa adventures is run by Piet and his son Sakkie , its a beautiful place and given that bikes arn't allowed to enter the Gorongosa Park proper a good place for a biker to stop in the area . I did spend a few days exploring the area and even managed to get my bike stuck down a rocky slippery slope . http://gorongosa-adventures.blogspot.co.za/ (http://gorongosa-adventures.blogspot.co.za/)

Gorongosa campsite sadly deserted with all the trouble in the area

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010890.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010890.jpg.html)

Its a beautiful area and well worth exploring

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010913.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010913.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010934.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010934.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010936.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010936.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010939.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010939.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010941.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010941.jpg.html)

a real cowboys supper

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010951.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010951.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: SchalkL on October 03, 2016, 02:27:40 pm
Such a fantastic ride report  :thumleft: Tx for sharing.

(Would be nice if you can post us a gps route if you have  ;) )
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 02:36:13 pm
Riding Day 32 Gorongosa to Nyanyadzi Hot Springs

I left on the typical central Mozambican roads , by this point I am really enjoying these conditions , makes for fun riding and keeps you on your toes

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010955.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010955.jpg.html)
 
(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010956.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010956.jpg.html)

From Inchope to the border post of Zimbabwe at Mutare the road gets much better and with lots of road works you can expect a very good road in the not too distant future .

After the border Zimbabwe brings its own unique form of road hazard -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010958.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010958.jpg.html)

Riding along this road I got stopped by a group of policemen - Your one light is not working , do you know in Zimbabwe that means a fine . No sir it is working , its the bright light . The AT has two lights and only when the brights are on do they both come on . The policeman was looking for pocket money and called all his friends over to explain my ' broken ' light . I tried as much as I could to explain that this is the way the bike was made and that it would be dangerous to other motorists me having my brights on the whole time . Master plan - told the cop to look into the ' broken' light - he bent down too stare and I brighted him - all his mates burst out laughing - yip its the bright light .. after looking at me sheepish he allowed me to pass - I did in the future when I saw a road block put my brights on ( I had adjusted my lights to shine almost straight down as they could ) I didn't want anymore excuses for harassment .

A good place for a beer and a leg of long pig

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010959.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010959.jpg.html)

Finally reached  Nyanyadzi Hot Springs - what a beautiful place again with no tourists around .

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010969.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010969.jpg.html)

There was no place to eat and the staff at the hot springs were concerned with me going into the little town for something to eat ,Nyanyadzi had apparently turned a little dangerous at night due to the discovery of diamonds in the area - I offered to make a braai for everyone and sent one of the guys out with $12 to see if he can get meat and beers ...

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010994.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010994.jpg.html)

It ended up a big party - my $12 went far and eventually 8 of us were full and getting pretty drunk

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010997.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1010997.jpg.html)

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Xpat on October 03, 2016, 03:18:13 pm
Looks like a good ride and cool party-time  O0.

But one thing I don't miss is that EN1 slab. That is just pure pain in the butt with all the potholes, convoys and checkpoints. That is part of the beauty of riding off the main roads in the bush - doing the side tracks up to Vilanculos, in three weeks I almost didn't see a policeman in Moz last December, while all 4x4ers were complaining about the hassle.

Didn't you want to go originally all the way up to Rwanda, or am I getting confused? Why did you turn back so soon?

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: 0012 on October 03, 2016, 03:54:49 pm
what a ride!!!

awesome  :ricky:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 03, 2016, 04:48:29 pm
Looks like a good ride and cool party-time  O0.

But one thing I don't miss is that EN1 slab. That is just pure pain in the butt with all the potholes, convoys and checkpoints. That is part of the beauty of riding off the main roads in the bush - doing the side tracks up to Vilanculos, in three weeks I almost didn't see a policeman in Moz last December, while all 4x4ers were complaining about the hassle.

Didn't you want to go originally all the way up to Rwanda, or am I getting confused? Why did you turn back so soon?



My original intention was to take a smaller bike and ride up Lake Tanganyika towards Rwanda too visit a mate of mine , and then cut down via Tanzania and hit Mozambique at the unity bridge . Got caught up in the whole buying of the AT thing and then realized that there was no way my route would have accommodated me going solo on such a big heavy bike . Looking at next year the same time doing this route on a small bike - anyways worked out well , got to travel a bit with the missus which on a small bike wouldn't have allowed - all good - the EN1 isnt so bad on a big bike - doing it on an off-road dedicated bike I can imagine being pure hell .
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: jimjim on October 03, 2016, 05:00:57 pm
Fantastic trip. The pics of those trees in the water are stunning.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 04, 2016, 08:58:51 am
Riding Day 33 Nyanyadzi Hot Springs to Great Zimbabwe Ruins

Easy ride through the baobabs south to the Zim ruins

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020003.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020003.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020021.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020021.jpg.html)

Not a problem with this bike - what a great traveling machine

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020022.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020022.jpg.html)

Zimbabwe's roads are a patchwork of repairs 

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020024.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020024.jpg.html)

I had bought extra fuel in Mozambique , an extra 15 litres , it was time to fill up and carry on my journey ..

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020029.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020029.jpg.html)

The Zim ruins were empty and I had the place to myself -

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020066.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020066.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020079.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020079.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020097.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020097.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020102.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020102.jpg.html)

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020129.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020129.jpg.html)

Riding Day 34 Zimbabwe Ruins to Gauteng

Another easy ride , the border post at Beit bridge was a breeze - 30 mins and through , suddenly on our good roads I was approaching home .

Riding Day 35 Gauteng to Colesburg

Left late in the afternoon after picking my bike up from its 12 000km service and headed out . Got to Colesburg and had a great sleep at Jean's place - Nimmo on this forum ( Sunset Villas ) , he waited up for me . A good place to break your journey north/south if you are slabbing it .

Riding Day 36 Colesburg to Harkerville

Home

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020148.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020148.jpg.html)

And that's that , hope you enjoyed my little journey , keep safe and ride responsibly - cheers for now Derek

(http://i1137.photobucket.com/albums/n506/shantijourney/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020141.jpg) (http://s1137.photobucket.com/user/shantijourney/media/Bike%20trip%202016/P1020141.jpg.html)
 

Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: bud500 on October 04, 2016, 10:17:56 am
Love it!

What was your total kilometers travelled and total days away from home?
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Duster on October 04, 2016, 10:24:30 am
Epic journey and thanks for sharing.  After that distance covered, I am always thankful for bikers to be home safe.  Respect!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Cota on October 04, 2016, 10:42:39 am
Brilliant trip!!!  :ricky:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Slim Jim on October 04, 2016, 11:24:03 am
In awww ,well done budd
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Bwana on October 04, 2016, 11:35:03 am
Well done Derek great report. Can we have a bike report. KMs per liter expenses likes dislikes etc.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: XRRX on October 06, 2016, 06:15:40 pm
Fantastic ride and report!!!
Well done Derek!!!  :thumleft: :thumleft:

Saluting the AT too - I belief it has earned its name - yet again!!!    :thumbsup:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: I&horse on October 06, 2016, 09:01:23 pm
Jeeeeeez D thats how you do it bru!!!!!!!!

That eclipse party looks amazing :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: windswept on October 07, 2016, 10:46:48 pm
What a lekker trip china. That jol on the island looked like a trippy pozzie with the colours in your photos and trees and the laid back vibe.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: landieman on October 08, 2016, 09:09:04 am
Fantastic!!!must have been an awesome jol on the island for the eclipse
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 08, 2016, 09:40:24 am
Thank you for all the positive comments - It was a great ride up and down .

A little bit about the bike - a 2016 DCT Africa twin

I liked.......

The DCT gearbox - it made for a very pleasurable ride and helped alot with constant riding on un-familiar terrain .
Without having to think of what gear I was in made for a very relaxed ride . I could focus on the terrain around me more especially at the end of the day with fatigue had set in .
The DCT gearbox and sand - wow - due to the low revving nature of the engine and the gearbox doing alot of the intuitive thinking I could pilot my heavily laden bike with ease through deep sand , I did have to 'correct' gearing a few times approaching sand hills as the gearbox only responds to these obstacles when the hill sensor actively 'knows' you are on an incline - the corrections were simple and fun - just a press of your thumb and no jerk in the gear changing that could affect your line in the sand .
Piloting the bike up rocky / sandy hills the bike did ' hunt ' a little and I changed the set up to manual allowing me to keep in a low gear longer by choice - one could change the set up to sports mode 3 and achieve the same result but I guess time will allow that level of trust .
Given my style of riding and that I was in a very relaxed head space while travelling I seldom went out of D mode and found it perfect for overland travelling .
There is something amazing about twisting the handle hard to accelerate and overtake and the bike just jumps forward changing down seamlessly - just hang on ..
The DCT gearbox was great for the few heavily congested towns that I encountered , I live in the garden route so they were my first experience of heavy traffic and it made for a very easy experience again allowing me to concentrate on the traffic and dodging obstacles .
Riding on pothole infested roads again the DCT gearbox was a pleasure doing all the constant gear changes that are necessary for this slow down go style of riding .
To be honest I never really felt the difference using the G button but it gave an added level of confidence somehow when getting to a tricky dirt section to press in the G button - kind of a ' lets do it ' button .
I believe the DCT gearbox also extended my tyre range as there was no sudden jerks in my gear changes that could cause wear but I think also the traction control also had its part to play here .
Two up my wife loved the DCT gearbox as the gear changes are smooth and we seldom bashed helmets .
Over all bloody brilliant and only time will tell the reliability of this gear box , I had no issues ...

The traction control I enjoyed the different settings and there is a marked difference between them . I found traction control 1 was best for deep sand as the bike didn't 'dig' in and rose to the top of the sand easy with out getting stuck . I had to turn the traction control off when going over long stretches of corrugations as there was a jerky-ness with it on .

The ABS brakes turn off the rear when descending difficult off road terrain . Not being able to turn off the front didn't affect me or make any difference - for me I enjoyed not locking up the front in ALL conditions - at very low speeds - sub 20kmph ( not sure the threshold ) the front does lock up .

The adjustable head lights This was a bit of a surprise and I only found out about it when riding two up on a dark road for the first time . It was so easy to reach your hand down behind the light cowl and use the big turn dial to adjust up and down to suit . When I needed maximum lighting on a busy pot-holed filled road instead of constantly turning my brights on and off for oncoming traffic I just turned the lights to look more down and rode with my brights on allowing me to see more of the road and the oncoming traffic didn't bright me for blinding them - a very good feature . Otherwise on normal setting for brights and normal lights the strength of the lights was great and I never felt the need for additional lighting even on moonless nights with bad road conditions .

The fuel consumption and range of the bike The bike is very good and frugal if you ride it conservatively - this is especially easy to do on the roads of Zimbabwe Malawi and Mozambique with strictly enforced traffic speeds - I was getting between 23.5km/l and 19km/l pretty consistently . I started to think seriously about fuel round the 300km mark as the distances between fuel stops can be far though never further than 100km apart on average . My range was +/- 390km when riding conservatively . The bike accepts container fuel and mixed fuels ( biofuel ) and performance doesn't seem to be effected . I did carry my own pre-filter for pouring fuel through and I would advise the same as my filter showed some dirt from the containers

The engine   Well its a new bike so it was faultless . The low revving engine was great for sand , rough terrain and the overall fuel consumption . It has lots of poke if needed and can quickly get you up to very fast speeds when required . The bike started easy in the cold and the engine is very confidence inspiring with no noises , misfiring and changes in idle with different fuels - again its a new bike so one would not expect any different . The bikes engine never got hot and only a few times  in deep sand and going up Livingstonia pass did the fan come on , the temps stayed in the middle for my whole journey .

The dash I enjoyed the various functions and information that I could get from the dash and flicking between the two trip meters , checking fuel consumption real time , average fuel consumption , temperatures etc - I liked the km or litre count down on the reserve . I did have the dash turned up to max lighting and didn't feel that I couldn't read the dash at anytime even when covered with dust . I loved the lighting at night and it has a real spaceship feel to it . Coming from a KLR all these functions were a pleasure so I am not the one to compare really with other bikes - just having a fuel gauge was amazing ;)

The suspension Out of the box perfect for me but I am no Dakar racer - even two up on the rocks and whoops I didn't bottom out . They handled the corrugations with ease and I didnt feel that my teeth were rattling out . I did make some adjustments to the rear when two up and it was easy to do so on the side of the road - bring your little book with you if you are unfamiliar with what adjusts what .

The rockfox lower and upper front crashbars Very sturdy design without feeling you have a trellis work of thick piping attached to the bike . The few times they were needed they performed as they should and I received no damage to my bike on my few low speed falls . Good product . They also formed a good attachment to my two leather bags that a friend made -

Leatherwise leather front pannier bags Beautifully made bespoke leather bags . I wanted bags that would be robust and be able to fit exactly a 5 litre container inside to extend my range if needs be . I found these two bags my most handy accessory and were used to store food that I found , beer , water , fuel , jacket linings and other various items on my journey . Its a pain to have to open soft rear bags that are strapped down to get some needed item while on the road  , I would anticipate my requirements for the day - eg air-pump when doing mixed terrain and I would pack it in the front bags for ease of access . Shopping was made easy with these bags and having 'free' space was great . They also performed well alongside the rockfox crashbars to be a cushion to land the bike on ..

The DCT parking brake The few times I did tip over it was great to lock the rear wheel which made picking the bike up easier on irregular/ hilly terrain . Its also handy for leaving the bike unattended as I don't think anyone could figure out why the rear is not moving ( just a theory )

Barkbusters hand-guards they speak for themselves and are a great product - sturdy

Tyres TKC80 front and Mitas E07 rear - a great combination for mixed road riding for me , they lasted the distance 12500km and I didn't get any punctures - a plus in any bikers book . I also had UHD tubes which may have helped the puncture reality .

ATG rear saddle bags a really good product and robust - I liked the additional waterproof bags that fit inside , I could separate things that I didn't want to mix up in my bags like I could keep my clothing and sleeping bag in the water proof bag and keep my petrol stove and pot in the outer bag without stinking up my clothing . They wear well and mine still look new . The attachment method is great especially the wide velcro  for loading in the morning , my wife did complain a little about having to sit on this bit but fair due I cant think of another way . The additional straps for pulling up the bags once the velcro is attached are really good and that combined with a strap to hold the bags onto the rack made for a very secure and strong attachment

was ok .....

The seat was reasonably comfortable and I didn't have much to complain about , again not knowing the various planks and couches out there other than the KLR , DR , XT500 and a few other border-line planks I don't have much to go by . My wife loved the seat but some days for me I was riding on one butt cheek at a time - distance will do that .

The bad

Aftermarket pegs I got some after market pegs that proved to be very wide , it made paddling and moving the bike around in tight areas very difficult - my shins kept bashing into them . The AT is very wide at the bottom and the cast peg holders further make it wider . The pegs bent right out of shape when my bike toppled over while being pushed backwards out of a tricky area - I had to get them ' fixed ' along the way and when my wife flew out to meet me in Lilongwe she brought me the originals - I am very happy with the originals and currently wouldn't change them .  My personal opinion on any after market if you really feel you need them is to look for ones that are possibly wider but not longer than the originals and make sure that they are either cast or thick stock steel .

Fuel consumption and range mentioned as part of my good and now mentioned as part of my bad - riding with a big grin can drastically effect your fuel consumption and blasting through the Tete I made on average 13.5km/L and this wasn't with my hand at end stop - oh well fun costs ..

The plastics Although I didn't do them any damage I did find them flimsy and I gave up getting too the inline fuse for the power outlet - kept waiting for a rest/non activity day to deconstruct the front - never did .. The rear grab handles have paint that is gone from my soft rear tog bag rubbing and any used AT will bear the same results - this bike will age quickly on the aesthetic front for those that want a concourse machine - for the rest of us its just stories to tell .

The OEM dash power outlet This thing is useless for anything more than charging electronic items - I blew the fuse with my air-compressor early in my journey and didn't have the energy to dig amongst the plastics to find the fuse - please Honda change the fuse size or make the fuse accessible under the seat . Luckily I had another cigarette charger point on the bike that I had installed so I just used that instead

The weight No marketing can hide the fact that this bike is heavy .. Yes it does carry its weight down low and unloaded has a wide tipping point but when it reaches that point there is no stopping it going down , loaded this gets worse . I am a fit 45 year old - by no means a body builder and at 72kg reasonably strong with a chosen vocation of a blacksmith .. On a perfect tip over in perfect terrain - flat , good grip in the surface and balmy weather conditions the bike is relatively easy to pick up and I  achieved this easily on my field with the bike loaded up ( I had to do this for ease of mind ) - mix into this real world situations - inclines , slippery surfaces and the reality gets a whole lot worse . I ride solo and returned home so yes it can be done but doing it at the end of a day while tired takes will power and the tedium of having to unload your baggage each time - trick is not to fall I guess which as stated above the DCT gearbox helps . I had the opportunity of riding in the Reserva do Gili in Mozambique but had to turn it down due to many river crossings and the possibility due to riding solo of getting compromised seriously .. But that's another kind of traveling or adventuring and I guess if you were doing a long journey or a RTW trip on this bike you wouldn't be seeking

will write a bit more on my various camping navigation and travelling things  if anyone is interested ...
As to GPS routes - my old gps had a daily function but didnt save my entire route - next time I willl try better :)


 








Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: SchalkL on October 08, 2016, 10:07:07 am
WOW, what a great write-up to end this ride. I wish (myself included) will give a summary at the end of the ride.
Your info on the AT in a real life "Africa" trip with real people (not Chris Birch) is invaluable. [Calling bike mags ! - you should publish this trip  ;) ]
Tx again and looking forward to your next post as mentioned.........
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: DUSTRIDERS on October 08, 2016, 11:08:25 am
Everyone with a DS bike should have the time and money for such a trip. :deal:
I am still dreaming.
Thanks for the time taking posting Shanti. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Skolla on October 08, 2016, 11:16:06 am
That was a very nice read with very good technical information,mooi man,lekker gelees
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Nimmo on October 09, 2016, 06:24:21 pm
What an epic RR - great to meet you  :thumleft:  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Morne 1200gs on October 09, 2016, 08:19:19 pm
Baie mooi RR :thumleft:

Baie geniet, proe soos nog....
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on October 11, 2016, 10:14:37 am
Great report, and the first real time RR on an AT, very interesting info indeed. Thanks for sharing this epic trip of yours!

Roll on tomorra!

 8)
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Archangel on October 14, 2016, 02:48:41 pm
Lekker man, nou's ek jaloers!!!

Ek verlang terug na Mozambique...  :-\
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Bernt on October 15, 2016, 09:15:34 am
Stunning report, thanks for taking the time to put it together.
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Clockwork Orange on October 18, 2016, 08:58:20 am
Fantastic trip and report.  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on October 26, 2016, 07:05:33 am
Thank you for all the positive comments ...
Safe biking and have fun
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Flash on October 28, 2016, 08:23:01 am
Great report, it stirs my soul to the point that I just want to leave my job and get out there to the bush again. there is nothing better for the soul than raw Africa, despite all its short Cummings.
Enjoyed the read over the last 3 days
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Oubones on October 29, 2016, 04:16:03 am
It is reports like these that make me get naughty thoughts of just going!
Thanks for a good read even if I cannot see a trip like that in my foreseeable future!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: RrP on October 29, 2016, 08:53:57 am
Well that report hit the spot thank you for sharing. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: BlueBull2007 on November 02, 2016, 12:40:57 pm
Shanti you write really well and your photos are also very good. Thank you for a great read. Top ride report. :thumleft:

So were you able to convince Oscar's son (?) to make the long journey south?
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on March 16, 2017, 10:28:13 am
Shanti you write really well and your photos are also very good. Thank you for a great read. Top ride report. :thumleft:

So were you able to convince Oscar's son (?) to make the long journey south?

Hi BlueBull - geez sorry the very late reply - got caught up in other ventures annd only re-reading my report to build up the momentum for another through Africa bike ride - answer to your question - no - sadly his father cannot see a way to bring his boy back here to SA - he feels it is safer for him in Malawi especially with the violence in the townships here . He will grow up barefooted in the middle of no-where with not much opportunity for schooling - he stays far away from the nearest mission station where a chance of an education can be had .  On a bright side he is with a very happy smiley family 
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: big oil on April 05, 2017, 06:45:22 pm
Excellent RR and pictures, Shanti.  I can't imagine being in a country where an armed convoy is necessary, what was your mindset when you learned of these convoys, or is that something you've dealt with on prior trips?
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on April 06, 2017, 07:21:58 pm
Excellent RR and pictures, Shanti.  I can't imagine being in a country where an armed convoy is necessary, what was your mindset when you learned of these convoys, or is that something you've dealt with on prior trips?

Thanks big oil and welcome to wilddogs :) , I had heard that there would be a possibility of the armed convoys prior to leaving . I guess i just accepted it as part of the journey initially - as I got closer to the first convoy there was lots of conflicting stories coming from the guest houses I stayed in etc - I took all the stories and tried to make an informed picture to base my decision on - one was backtracking a good 1000km ( back to SA and up through Zim ) or going forward - I guess I chose the experience over the wisdom somewhat but that's adventure riding   - it was a bit of a nerve wracking day but having done the convoy it made the beer late that night so much sweeter - I have dealt with corrupt policeman on the take , non existent roads , sparse fuel , reckless drivers etc but never before having to ride in an armed convoy - I guess its just another African experience - didn't detract from the fact that Africa is an amazing country to ride in  .
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: big oil on April 10, 2017, 06:59:17 am
Excellent RR and pictures, Shanti.  I can't imagine being in a country where an armed convoy is necessary, what was your mindset when you learned of these convoys, or is that something you've dealt with on prior trips?

Thanks big oil and welcome to wilddogs :) , I had heard that there would be a possibility of the armed convoys prior to leaving . I guess i just accepted it as part of the journey initially - as I got closer to the first convoy there was lots of conflicting stories coming from the guest houses I stayed in etc - I took all the stories and tried to make an informed picture to base my decision on - one was backtracking a good 1000km ( back to SA and up through Zim ) or going forward - I guess I chose the experience over the wisdom somewhat but that's adventure riding   - it was a bit of a nerve wracking day but having done the convoy it made the beer late that night so much sweeter - I have dealt with corrupt policeman on the take , non existent roads , sparse fuel , reckless drivers etc but never before having to ride in an armed convoy - I guess its just another African experience - didn't detract from the fact that Africa is an amazing country to ride in  .

Thanks for the welcome and reply.  Much respect for you, those must have been some very long, hot days at slow speed.  Love the bike as well :thumleft:
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Goingnowherekwickly on April 10, 2017, 10:34:19 pm
Thanks Shanti!!

Wow, just read it all AGAIN...
Roll of honour stuff... 
You do travel the best way...
Aaah, too lekker!!
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on July 10, 2017, 07:50:35 am
Damn it - all the pictures have been ransomed by photobucket - does this mean I have to find another solution to get them back onto this ride report ?? - the grabbing hands grab all they can - F##kers
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on January 25, 2018, 08:16:26 am
Damn it - all the pictures have been ransomed by photobucket - does this mean I have to find another solution to get them back onto this ride report ?? - the grabbing hands grab all they can - F##kers

Fixed - wow thought I had to do this all over again - https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/photobucket-embedded-fix/
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Suzukli DL on January 25, 2018, 09:03:00 am
Fixed till day six. Do you have to do it for each post ?
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: shanti on January 25, 2018, 12:00:02 pm
Fixed till day six. Do you have to do it for each post ?

Thanks for pointing this out - fark I give up , oh well time for another RR - better time spent than fixing this one
Title: Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
Post by: Suzukli DL on January 25, 2018, 12:36:19 pm
Fixed till day six. Do you have to do it for each post ?

Thanks for pointing this out - fark I give up , oh well time for another RR - better time spent than fixing this one

 :thumleft: I like your thinking.

PS this was a brilliant RR