Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => Topic started by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 10:41:17 am

Title: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 10:41:17 am
Now sometimes you have success the first time, sometimes like this story the 3rd time, and sometimes- like riding sand, you never get it right, you only get to do it beter.

So twice in  the last 4 years I tried to go back to the Bosveld roads near Marken.  But everytime rain cut the effort short.  The first time I went with the JRAD manne.  When we passed through Warmbad that Friday afternoon, and the caravan floated in front of the 4x4 I knew we were in for it.  We turned around at Marken in heavy rain and extreme mud.

A few weeks later my son and I tried it again.  Again  it rained the whole weekend.  Water crossings and mud was the order of the day.  In 8km in the mud  I was separated from the bike 4 times.  At Snotbult we pushed the bikes up the hill.  We never even reached Marken.
.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 10:54:30 am
The previous muddy attempts- in writing:

With the JRAD manne

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=146975.msg2802723#msg2802723

With my son

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=148605.msg2831016#msg2831016
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 11:03:24 am
(https://s18.postimg.org/6hdea39x5/20170304_063643.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/rr10kxq7p/)windows 7 screenshot (https://postimage.org/app.php)

The trusty old workhorse, the lights are on but not working.  At the staging point at Sterkrivier.  My brothers weekend farmhouse.  Without electricity and occupants.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 11:15:50 am
Basterspad in the old Lebowa, between Potgietersrus and Marken
(https://s22.postimg.org/tu84d625d/20170304_085846.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/d6gmao7dp/)capture (https://postimage.org/app.php)

Coenraad du Buys.  A man of close to 7 foot in height.  A dominating figure in the Northwest Transvaal 1820-1840.  He is said to have fathered more than 300 children with his black wives.  His people used this road to through the mountains to escape their black enemies.

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Heavy sand at places on the Basterspad.  The village and school is also known as Basterspad.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 11:29:12 am
But this time I was determined.  So I left the Friday afternoon from Pretoria, but so wragtig 10km before Warmbad it was yes, raining heavily.  Just past Nylstroom I took the Groenfontein Road and travel until I road becomes tar.  I reached the t-junction towards Maken and after that I took the reached the Grootfontein Road.  It became late and I was alone.  The road were I fell 4 times on one afternoon.  This time the road was heavy sand and at other places deep pools.  At one stage my bike was knee deep in the water.  I spent the night alone at my brother’s farm at  Sterkrivier .
Early morning I check the trusty old KLR and everything was fine, except for the lights.  I struggled for an hour to get the front lights working but without success.  I  decided to push on and try to get on the road before the rain comes- and it would come.
So from Sterkrivier I moved west, past the Tinmyne road, on to the dirt and over the  bridge over the Sterkrivier.  At  the T-junction I turned right and crossed the R518 on to Bakenberg.  This was part of the old Lebowa homeland and donkeys and cows were all over.  The place is absolutely beautifull but do not expect to be greeted by the inhabitants.  The either do not like single white bikers or they hate them.  So I took a stop at Basterspad, one of the small villages. 
In the days before the Voortrekkers a white man, Coenraad du Buys, took his wife and moved to the north.  He had a liking for black women and in traditional African style married them.  It is said that he left 300 children, when he disappeared around 1850.  His descendants lived west of the Soutpansberge.  On one of their flights from their enemies they came across this beautiful place.  It was named after the route they have taken.

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Rural village

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Candyman on March 06, 2017, 11:59:51 am
I know I trip is planed and that by hell over high one should do it . But . Guys look at this app it's free : Get There Dry
It really works well .



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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: skydiver on March 06, 2017, 12:22:18 pm
Ek ry saam Armpie.
Gooi nog fotos  :thumleft:
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 04:16:39 pm
Nou waar was ek laas?  As I was saying!

To the left of the road is the Moepel conservancy.  The most beautiful scenic  Moepel Mountains.  But the road off course ugly.  Sand, sand and potholes.
Then after about 40km there is a road turning west.  The road is running up a kloof.  A magnificent beautiful area.  Unfortunately Eskoms power lines coming from Ellisras is also using the same kloof.  Again sandy and at times rocky.  The road is not used much.  At a few places shallow water crossings is running over the road.  Eventually the road is again running past the village Skurwekloof before it again reaches the R518.  Again ideal adventure bike roads.  Challenging quite roads through a pretty landscape.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 04:25:02 pm
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 04:37:16 pm
Just past the Kunap river I get on the tar road for about 10km to Marken.  When I came to the Bushveld here 45 years ago all was rooi Afrikaner osse.  Gone are the Afrikaners. You mjight see a few Bonsmara’s.   Now it is big game.  And big business.  Big game fences and strange animals.  Goue wildebeeste, blackface rooibokke  and white Blesbok!  But there are also sable antelope- imported from Malawi and Zambia, and buffaloes. 

At Marken I stopped to fill up and have a Russian and chips for breakfis.  And tomatoe sauce, those cheap stuff that turns you hands pink.  But the chips were OK.  Then on to the kooperasie to see if they cannot help with the lights.  But without success.  I took the road west and after about 3km a road turns out towards Overyssel.  This was new ground.  The furthest I have gone in 4 years!.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 04:58:36 pm
The road took me back many years.  One of the leading families in the wild lion invested  Palala Valley was the Lewis  family (pronounced Le-wies) sometimes also spelled as Lewies.  Although a surname of English origins that is where the English connection stopped.  They were Transvaal Boere.  They were pioneers of this area. 
But one man made the Lewis family of the Bushveld  famous.  During the 1912 Olympic games the South African Olympic  team selected a young man by the name of Rudolph Lewis.  He was here from the Waterberg.  He took the train from Nylstroom and arrived in Johannesburg with a small suitcase with a single set of shirt and trousers.  When the team management asked if he knew where they are going he answered “Yes, Stockholm!  It is not very far beyond Springs!  So the team clubbed in and bought him clothes to take to Sweden.
In Sweden the form of race was where every rider started 5minutes after the last rider.  So everybody should be riding alone.  If you are bad luck you draw the first places.  So did Oukie, as Rudolph was now known, drew position number 2.  It was the ride of Olympic proportions.  In stead of other rides catching him over the 180km he rode away from the rest!  He won gold in one of the most decisive rides every on any Olympic Games.  After the war he went to Germany to make his living  from professional cycling.  When WW1 broke out he joined the German Army.  He returned to South Africa in 1920 and died as a young man.  I think 1932.  The war left its mark on this incredible talented young man.

Rudolph "Oukie" Lewis (Lewies) Olympic Gold Medal Winner , Cycling, Stockholm, 1912

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Offshore on March 06, 2017, 06:44:14 pm
Lekker RR Armpie and interesting, gooi nog and thanks for sharing, it is such a beautiful Area.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:08:06 pm
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I frequently visited the Bosveld here around the northern edge of the Waterberg,  from about 1974 to around 1990.  I had family farming  here. 
So the dirt road was running west towards the crossing of the Palala.  Narrow with Sekelbos overhanging in the road.  On vehicle at a time.  With deep sand and at places washed away.  In other places the road was dark red from the mud clay.  It must be 40 kilometers before the turn.
There I was minding my own business on me bike,  when suddenly from nowhere in the grass popped up this vlakvark and piglet.  Narrowly I missed her and the small one swerved back into the grass.  I immediately slammed the brakes and let her come back to the small one.  It was close.


Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:12:01 pm
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:14:13 pm
I crossed the bridge over the Palala and passed an old white building with tall grass around.  Fenced in behind  diamond mesh.  I rode passed it just to realize that is the old store at Overyssel!  Gone are the donkey karts and the black farm workers spending their money inside.  And the white children spending their pocket money on cheap sucker icereams.  Times have changed.  The hub of my childhood Bosveld memories gone.
I continued down the road.  Everything along the southern bank of the river here now belongs to van der Walt Boerdery.  Then I reached the Eskom lines I had to stop.  When I came here the first time there was no electricity here in the Northwestern Bosveld.  The roads were broad.  By 1990 50 tonne cool trucks were transporting 1000’s of cases of tomatoes to the markets of Cape Town and Port Elizabeth. 
When Eskom built these lines they cut across the bush without “favor or fear”.  The days before environmental impact studies.  Here below the line on the banks of the Palala the cut down the 100’s year old Hardkool trees were the buffalo hunters used to camp in the winter.  But that was now long gone. 
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:27:17 pm
At the next turn the road board read “Marken”.  I turned left and on both sides of me was the farm  “George Town”.  The farm I came to first as a child.  The farm of oom Stoffel Lewies and his son Rudolf, who later married my niece Hannelie.  All was  now fenced off with 2.4m high games fences.  On the old land a huge excavator was pushing down tries.  The gate was not locked so I decided to enter to go see if I can find the graves of one of the first white people to settle in this beautiful but tough part of the world.  Josef Stephanus Lewies.  I remember the graves as always neatly camped off here in the veld next to the land.  I found them.  Josef’s grave with a sekelbos growing over it.  His wife, a maiden Horn ( from Horn’s Nek, west of Pretoria) was damaged.  The excavator did not go over the graves but within 500mm.  II doubt it that the graves will still be found in 5 years  time.  I was sad.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:32:50 pm
Here was one of the pioneers of the Bosveld forgotten.  In the Anglo Boer War Josef Lewies went onto Commando with the Watrerberg Commando.  With him was Hans “Purekrans” van Rooyen, the later friend of Eugene Marais.  Both were captured and sent to Bermuda.  On a family photograph, Hans Purekrans and Josef Lewies stands as POW’s next to each over in Bermuda.  Josef’s son Stoffel later took over the farm and Stoffel shot his last lion in the same here he bought his first car.  1939.  The car was later wrecked and layed for many years next to the shop at Overyssel.  The grandson Rudolph sold the farm in the mid 1990’s.  Farming with cattle was not like 100 years earlier.  Times have changed.

Hans Purekrans van Rooyen en Josef Lewies saam in die Waterberg Kommando. Pre- ABO
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:34:01 pm
Any readers?  Or am I the only one with a degree of fun?
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Beebop on March 06, 2017, 07:37:28 pm
enjoying the history immensely.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:43:25 pm
Between fighting a war as a soldier  in Southwest Africa, and the constant droughts of the 1980’s things were not exactly moonshine and roses
So I went off the farm towards the Goudrivier.  The pipes under the lowwater drift were blocked and the water was running over the bridge.  I have never seen it.  I stopped and washed myself in the crystal clear water.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 07:54:22 pm
3rd Generation bushvelder.  Rudolph Lewis.  Forgotten veteran and hero of the Bush war.  From 1978 to 1988, was he in every big cross-border operation.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 08:01:27 pm
Gansekraal, the northern edge of the Waterberg painted by Gert Pietersen, 1992

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 08:07:25 pm
I went another 5km towards the mountain.  Here my uncle Cas farmed with his cousin for many years.  The northern side of the Waterberg is majestic.  I have a painting of the koppe in my house.  I took a picture.  I crossed the drift over the Palala.  The house oom Cas and his family lived in does not exist anymore.  Of the huge tomato fields nothing is left.  The sekelbos have reclaimed their country.  Now the area is farmed with game.  Exotic  stuff, that black and gold and white stuff.  By people that recon they do conservation.
So I returned on the road towards the R518.  Up the long uphill and came out on the Kunap River.
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 08:17:23 pm
So I turned south on the R518 and travelled for 50km towards Potgietersrus.  As I came down the de la Reypass, I decided to have a beer in Mmatlakala township.  I turned left into the village and knew it would not take ages to get to a tavern.  And so it was.  I stopped  in front of a grey building with a red roof.  I am the only whiteman in many kilometers.  I bought my beer for R18 and walked out.  Outside on a 1400 Datsun bakkie sits a man.  Hendrik he is the owner.  “Hierdie vokkon mense, hulle kan vokkon drenk!” he said to me.
So I had my beer, made some new friends and set off for Sterkrivier.

I had a solo trip taking me through some good memories.

Hendrik. "Hierdie vokkon mense hulle kan vokkon drenk!"

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"Jy sien al die witmense hulle kom hier vorby, hulle laaik daai berg baie.  Hulle stop die bakkies en hulle vat die fhoto".  Staan daar dat ek foto van jou met die tavern en die berg neem!
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 08:21:30 pm
With Hanglip to the front I pushed on to Pretoria.  Without lights.  In the rain.  But that is a story for another day.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: McSack on March 06, 2017, 08:49:38 pm
Thanks for sharing and putting in the extra effort of including some  history.

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: katana on March 06, 2017, 09:00:05 pm
Very much enjoyed this.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: windswept on March 06, 2017, 09:01:20 pm
Lekker man. :thumleft:
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Bokveld on March 06, 2017, 09:23:50 pm
     Lekker om n RR te lees wat agtergrond en geskiedenis van die area gee.Ek was nog net eenkeer in daai geweste en vind dit baie interesant.Is Buysplaas(?) in daai area? Moet erken, die ou Buys kerel was nie lui vir spyker nie.Dankie Armpie vir die saamry.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 06, 2017, 09:26:08 pm
Buysdorp is so 200km noord, wes van die Soutpansberg, maar in 'n ylbevolkte deel van die wereld was 200km nie afstand nie
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Bokveld on March 06, 2017, 09:40:57 pm
    Ek neem aan dat Buysdorp na Coenraad du Buys vernoem is en dat die Basters hoofsaaklik sy nasate is.Mooi area.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 07, 2017, 08:13:19 am
Korrek.  Buys dorp is vernoem na die Buys familie en dan ook Coenraad du Buys.  Gedurende die Anglo Boere Oorlog was hulle aan Boerekant
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: DEE 1150 on March 07, 2017, 10:24:19 am
enjoying the history immensely.

+100
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: RobbieJZW on March 07, 2017, 10:59:08 am
Thank you for sharing, so so much more than just a ride report!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 07, 2017, 11:38:05 am
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Slim Jim on March 07, 2017, 01:07:14 pm
thanx for the RR, really enjoyed that
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Rotten on March 07, 2017, 03:19:56 pm
Very interesting. Thank you
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Abre on March 07, 2017, 08:10:35 pm
Thank you for sharing, awesome riding area.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: YamaV on March 07, 2017, 08:24:39 pm
Dankie Armpie, lekker trip en storie!
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: JG on March 07, 2017, 11:35:27 pm
Cool read - enjoyed it!

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Saddle Up on March 08, 2017, 10:47:07 am
Dankie Armpie. Geniet altyd jou rr stories. Ek moet plan maak om ook so entjie duskant die Waterberge te gaan ry. Die wereld lyk mooi na al die reen
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Pilchie on March 08, 2017, 09:16:48 pm
So I turned south on the R518 and travelled for 50km towards Potgietersrus.  As I came down the de la Reypass, I decided to have a beer in Mmatlakala township.  I turned left into the village and knew it would not take ages to get to a tavern.  And so it was.  I stopped  in front of a grey building with a red roof.  I am the only whiteman in many kilometers.  I bought my beer for R18 and walked out.  Outside on a 14oo Datsun bakkie sits a man.  Hendrik he is the owner.  “Hierdie vokkon mense, hulle kan vokkon drenk!”
So I had my beer, made some new friends and set off for Sterkrivier.

I had a solo trip taking me through some good memories.

Hendrik, hierdie vokkon mense hulle kan vokkon drenk

(https://s9.postimg.org/6lfxsbtcf/20170304_131850.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hxsja4217/)image hosting without registration (https://postimage.org/)

Jy sien al die witmense hulle kom hier verby, hulle laaik daai berg.  Hulle stop die bakkies en hulle vat die fhoto.  Staan daar dat ek foto van jou met die tavern en die berg neem!
(https://s1.postimg.org/gj8u9c1xr/20170304_132721.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/80ze4zvez/)upload foto (https://postimage.org/)

Jeepers that's a smart shebeen
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Charel on March 09, 2017, 07:50:18 am
Dankie vir die lekker RR.
Baie mooi deel van die land daai.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Laban on March 09, 2017, 08:08:07 am
...die inspit van die geskiedenis kleur die RR mooi in...dankie Armpie...


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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on March 09, 2017, 09:56:43 am
Is Buysplaas(?) in daai area?

Daar is n Buysplaas tussen Cooper veilingskrale en Herbertsdale. :deal:

Armpie dankie vir die moeite met die RR. Bly om te sien jul wêreld is mooi groen. :thumleft:
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 09, 2017, 10:25:39 am
Buysdorp is so (ek skat) 60km wes van Louis Trichart, naby Vivo.  Op die R522.  President Kruger het in 1888 die Buys gemeenskap so 11 000 hektaar daar teen die westelike Soutpansberg gegee.  Dit klink of Coenraad Buys en sy volgelinge eers  wes van die huidige Naboomspruit  was.  Daar waar Hans van Rooyen se Purekrans, naby die Bokpoort is.  Wie vir die Buys'e se vlug weg na die Soutpansberg verantwoordelik was weet ek nie, maar die eerste Boere plase is so teen 1860 in die Waterberg toegeken.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Klein Torkar on March 10, 2017, 08:26:42 pm
Dankie vir die deel.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Dunnes on March 12, 2017, 12:41:13 pm
Dit was nou wonderlik om te lees. Dankie Armpie.
My ma het vir amper 22 jaar in Mamelodi hospitaal en Eersterust se kliniek gewerk. Sy vertel altyd hoe as sy n pasient sien met blou oë, dan vra sy altyd of jou van Buys is. Hulle antwoord dan amper altyd: "Maar hoe het dokter dit geweet?"

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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 14, 2017, 01:11:19 pm
En die short op die ligte is uitgesort!  Die bright se halogene H7 bulb het agter by die socket gebreek en die 2 pole het aan mekaar geraak.  Die bakoliet was nie te dik daar nie.

Die pad huistoe, voor die reen gekom het.
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Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: 0012 on March 14, 2017, 02:58:59 pm
baie dankie Armpie dit was nou lekker om te lees!
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Armpie on March 24, 2017, 09:27:11 pm
My volgende trip 23-26 April.  In die spore van die Boerepimpernel.  Pretoria na Fouriesburg en dan in die spore van Genl de Wet. Deur die Vrystaat, oor die Vaal tot agter die Magalies.  As jy wil saam laat my weet.
Title: Re: A Ride to yesterday- Agter die Palala, Boere en Basters
Post by: Gee S on March 25, 2017, 05:20:40 pm
Dankie vir n lekker storie Armpie. Alhoewel ek nooit in die area waar jy gery het was nie bring jou storie baie heimwee. N baie goeie vriend het n plaas op die Palala rivier naby Melkrivier gehad wat vir  meer as 15 jaar my privaat jagplek was.

Diit was n erf plaas was na een van die oorloe aan sy pa se oupa of oupagrooitjie toegeken was deur Pres Kruger. My vriend moes jare gelde die plaas (Doornkom)vekoop omrede sy susters hom hel gegeehet en sy vrou wat absoluut geweier het om voet op die plaas te sit nadat hulle op pesioen gegaan het.