Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => Topic started by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 11:34:12 am

Title: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 11:34:12 am
I have spent many many hours reading ride reports on this forum...especially on Namibia and more particularly Kaokoland. Days dreamt away behind the PC screen, FOMO, resentment and envy...yes sometimes reading the exploits of others does not bring out the best in oneself :-[

I missed out on a previous Kaokoland and Angola trip...then hurt my lower back and did not ride for 2 years. On top of that the company I work for has been going through all types of ownership changes etc etc...In a nutshell I was reaching the point of implosion, meltdown call it what you wish...time for a TIME OUT!!

So I went to Namibia...and it was better than any cure, ointment or remedy any doctor, phychiatrist or snake oil salemen could give :thumleft:

I am not one for writing ride reports...too much admin. However during my trip planning I relied heavily on the reports of others to get my planning spot on. Hence I hope my report can serve as the same for someone else one day.

Before we start some thank you's, disclaimer and apologies:

Thank you too:
The missus...for putting up with my shit but also for encouraging me to travel and get out of my comfort zone...and for picking up the pieces when I go too far.
2TDan and Beserker...for info, encouragement and wisdom imparted over many years
Rory...my friend that works for Inmarsat for the satphone and uncapped airtime
Myself...for putting in the work to be able to afford this >:D

Apologies:
To all the readers that are about to be scarred with my inferior writing and random ramblings and the photos. I am really lazy when it comes to documenting anything...hence I just snapped away at anything.
To the missus for the stress a trip like this puts her through.
To my mates for going without you (julle bliksems wil mos kinders he!! >:D)

Disclaimer:
I am writing this so that I can remember the trip and share it with friends and family. Normally I come home and my recollection of a trip is a random rehash of images, jumbled stories (forgetting half of it until much later something reminds me of it) and general sense of stoke.
I will try and include everything in my own words...hence if the language use offends then don't read on >:D. This i will do to try and convey the feel of the trip as I experienced it at the time.

So since most is back at work after the holidays, enjoy burning some gigs at work while slowly settling back into the slavery groove :)

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on July 25, 2017, 11:39:13 am
 :drif: :thumleft:Gooi ons wag. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 11:41:09 am
ChrilL...is jy nie die Enduristan agent nie??

Ek moet praat oor die luggage...anyway jy sal later sien >:D
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 25, 2017, 11:42:52 am
 :sip: You are doing ok so far, that foto looks familiar, where was it?
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on July 25, 2017, 11:43:47 am
ChrilL...is jy nie die Enduristan agent nie??

Ek moet praat oor die luggage...anyway jy sal later sien >:D
Alleen invoerder..........................................................................isik in die moeilikgeid? :eek7: :peepwall:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Vis Arend on July 25, 2017, 11:44:59 am
ek wag ook.     :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: slicknick on July 25, 2017, 11:59:28 am
 :peepwall:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:02:33 pm
Build up and prep:

Mid 2016 and I have finally recovered from my lowerback issues. I was climbing,cycling like a beast and knew it was time to RIDE again.

The bike buying process started in earnest. Now I was hell bent on a 690 with Omega Kit and for once was willing to lay down serious cash to acquire a virtually new bike.

In steps my mate Westlley that works offshore:

"Andre ek weet jy is n KTM man maar gaan ry eers my XT660z, hy staan in die garage sleutes is in die bike gooi net petrol in"

Now how can I refuse an offer like that?! A test ride proper was had...Atantis sand included. I remember coming home and thinking...damn, what a surprise...this bike will be right for 95% of what I intend doing. Needless to say the bike buying search was altered and a few weeks later I was the proud owner of a 2012 XT660z (white...best colour).

Westley then showed me how to weld and left me to my own devices...resulting in me voeeltjie kakking together my first set of luggage racks.

Some trips followed (Hell, Baviaans, Verneukpan and Namaqua Eco 4x4)...after 2TDan and I did the Namaqua Eco 4x4 in mid summer I knew I was ready for Nam. Dan commited provisionally for a Nam trip in Jul/Aug 2017.

Roll on May 2017...Dan had some family setbacks that did not allow him 3 weeks off. Shit...issue for me as the missus insists I am not allowed to go alone.

Next candidate Beserker. Unfortunately Dave also had some family related issues that did not permit him 3 weeks off. Double shit!!

Next candidate...Westly. His wife Lisa (sy is van die Weskus >:D) when approached..." Jy fokken los my nie hier vir 3 weke met die twee kinders alleen nie!!! Jy was nou net 9 weke op see!!!" Tripple shit!!!

Westley suggested I advertise the trip on his biking Wassap group...which I did. I also posted on WD. No takers...Quadruple Olifant Kak :(

I told the missus I am going alone...she said no...I said try and stop me >:(

Booked my leave for 8th July to 31 July. And started once again reading ride reports and staring at maps. However this went on until mid June...without me actually commiting anything to paper. I remember jotting down a countdown in my diary at work...when I hit 18 days to go the panic settled in and I was spurred into action.

Passport, vehicle papers, insurance, satphone, route GPX files, Compressor, Sleeping bag liner, Fuel bladder etc etc...the credit card was used under the motto of "Swipe hom lat die plastic brand!'

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:03:36 pm
ChrisL...nee tegnies nie jy innie kak nie. Maar sakke het gekak :(
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 25, 2017, 12:10:21 pm
 :sip: Good style, " ............dat die plastic brand"  :spitcoffee:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:13:12 pm
Prep: 7 days to departure

With 7 days to go I was granted the gift that the Cape Town winter bestowes on most of us...FLU. Nog n Olifant Kak.

Those that know me know that I can be very stubborn...tipies Afrikaner.

Of to the doc I go: "Doctor ek ry volgende saterday namibia toe en as ek bronchitus kry daar dan is dit jou probleem."

He laughed...I did not. He gave me a look and wrote me a prescription.

By now the missus was on my case as she realized my mind was set...I was going alone and I was going with flu.

Demands were made...I succumbed. An Excel itinary was drawn up with contact details, dates etc. Satphone was tested...she even tested the emergency position report. She was annoying me but I knew that if the proverbial shit hath hitteth the fan...she was the only one that would come running to my aid.

Some pics:

Bike loaded with spare tyre (to be changed at Kunene)
My half arsed attempt at a self issued haircut prior to departure
Battery monitor codes committed to phone (I am paranoid with any bike that does not have a kickstarter)

PS: The flu...I call it the AIDS...was well settled into my chest and I was couching like a newbie at a Rastafarian gathering.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:14:30 pm
Herklaas...Gamkab Eco river trial...on South Easter border of Richterveld park...close to Ausenkher
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 25, 2017, 12:17:50 pm
 :sip: Nie wat ek gedink het nie, maar was al in daai omgewing met 'n "cage" Wil nog Namibia doen met die bike. Sal maar eers tips vang hier by jou.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: THROTTLE JOCKEY on July 25, 2017, 12:18:14 pm
 :sip:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:39:44 pm
Day 1 Saturday

Depart Durbanville 6h30 am...en dis p03s koud en dik mistig. Fok...jy wil mos. The mist was an issue as I had a long day planned slogging it up to the border.

Did I mention it was p03s cold?! I had on all my clothes and winter gloves and I was still kakking off.

Mist meant 75km/h at most...shit this is going to be a looong day. Jy will mos Van Rooyen >:(

By Malmesbury te mist started to lift slightly and I was treated to a beautifull Cape winter morning with everything green and pretty...and getting even pretty colder.
 
Just as I thought I was getting rid of the mist it settled in again and I had to tag a truck to Piketberg. A bit dodgy but I needed to cover some ground.

At Piketberg I stopped for a coffee and a ciggie...I was now properly frozen. I zoned in on the coffee machine like a homing pigeon. The AIDS was not liking the moist cold air and I felt like shit.

A well...at least the mist has cleared so press on we must. High spirits at this stage though. I was on holiday and realizing a dream one kilometer at a time.

As most single cylinder owner would agree with...super slabbing is not the forte of this type of bike. The baby Ten is better than most but with 2 teeth extra at the back for this trip 130km/H GPS speed translated to 5500rpm. So at this lofty RPM I gunned it to the border.

At Klawer I topped up...11l for 160km?!? Fok...bankrot teen Windhoek!?

Chatted to Rassie and Michael. They were from Vredendal out on a day ride. Rassie on hos brand new 1290 Super Adv and Michael (who forgot his gloves at home) on his 990. Nice guys :thumleft:

Brekkie was a cheese griller, biltong and coffee.

Now the missus has this annoying habbit whenever I go away. Once I am all packed and ready to go she shoves a bag of snacks in my hand that I normally do not have space for...this time the bag included about half a kilo of biltong. How the F is that going to go over the border I was thinking?

Got stuck at some roadworks at the new bridge after Clanwilliam...about 20min delay.

Heading past Garies the sun was out in full and I was giving it the beans. Just before departure I finally managed to get my music setup right and I was reaping the rewards now. Dethklock blaring, max RPM...life is good 8)

And 15km later after ripping up the pass past Groenriver the puncture monster notified its presence when I slightly backed of the throttle as I crested the pass. Ag fok tog nie nou nie :dousing:. As far as punctures go this one was actually very convenient as 50m on there was one of those universal roadside stops with some benches and shade. It was cold though so hardly a sweat was broken during the tyre change.

At Springbok another 21.4l for 299km...the credit card was buckling under the onslaught :imaposer:

126km to go to border...life is good.

Getting warm now...Ice cold coke at the Enden and then final push.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:45:20 pm
Border

Got to the border just after 4pm.

SA side 20mins including smoke break...Nam side 30mins due to lots of Zaffers with kids in front of me.

My biltong and steaks made it accross no issue 8)

Stop at the Shell, chat a bit to the new owner Berto, fill up and head to Amanzi River Camp about 10km further on.

As I approach campsite I notice a smoke collumn...I though it is probably someone burning rubbish.

It was hot by now so when I arrived at the camp I klapped an ice cold Tafel and then set up my Camp.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 25, 2017, 12:50:21 pm
 :peepwall:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:51:21 pm
Night 1...a rough start

Remember the smoke I noticed? Well whilst braaing my steak Sharon on Amanzi came past all the campsites making everyone aware of the huge fire burning on the property next door...she seemed quite concerned.

Well after the sun set I could see why...it was proper! And we were only about 400m away and seperated only by the plantation (tomatos under shade netting I think?). It is not like that part of Nam has a fire brigade!!

Luckily the wind was in our favour and I settled in for a cold wind night in my hammock. It was a rough night...puked 4 times. Must have gotten some river water into my system or it was the AIDS. Farksakes.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 12:54:17 pm
Geduldig asseblief...ek tik met twee fingers!!!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: charliepappa on July 25, 2017, 01:03:55 pm
Brilliant!

Sub  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 25, 2017, 01:09:10 pm
Geduldig asseblief...ek tik met twee fingers!!!

 :sip: Soos 'n hoenner wat na een mielie in 'n blik pik.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 01:15:45 pm
Day 2 Sunday

Wake up feeling like shit...and its cold. The plan was an 800km dash to Windhoek...got started late...we will see how far I get.

On a previous visit to Nam with Westley (by car) he showed me the Gamkab...I really wanted to visit by bike so I did. Head out past Aussenkher and then take a right into Gamkab riverbed. Visited the tall cliff and also a little cave Westley showed me before. The cave has lots of animal bones and smells of rotting flesh so must still be in partly regular use by some critter. Found some bike tracks but the rider was nowhere to be seen.

Worked my way on the dirt to the Canyon Roadhouse. Some nice twisties with good views and piss cold. Got to Canyon for lunch at 12...better try and force something down as I skipped breakfast after the previous night's puking.

Lots of 4x4 on the road making dust. Fukkers...although I learned to love them later on in the trip.

Very open country...lots and lots of space.

Sat eating lunch whilst fascinated by the throngs of tour buses. I envied their comfort but once I heard all the accent, especially Yank) the envy waned.

On to Keetmanshoop on tar...what a kak town. Did not like the vibe at all!! Luckily an Oom in a Prado struck up a conversation and suggested Riverside Chalets Campsite in Marienthal as both he and I thought Windhoek was not to be for me that day. Filled up and pressed on to Marienthal. Saw some Gemsbok, Springbok, an eagle thermalling above a dustdevil (this is not normal...crows maybe but eagles not.), 2 x Gringos on 250 busy with RTW.

Chasing the sunset, pressing on...i was not riding in the dark in Nam...too much game around.

Some dodgy truck passes in high winds and then a small bird flashes before me...thud. He hit my boot. Well I met Frikking the low Flying when I arrived in Marienthal. Unfortunately I met him at his burial...which I had to be the master of ceremonies.

Chatted to local farmer whilst eating my burger. He reckoned no worries about lions in Hoanib river which I had planned for later. Ellies also no issue on bike...he reckoned.

Quick Wimpy burger (a kak one) and the campsite. Got done just as sun was setting. Called home and then sleep.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 01:19:09 pm
At this stage I also started taking the Mozzietech tablets...for the malaria that apparently rages further up :biggrin:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: JMOL on July 25, 2017, 01:21:27 pm
Ek ry lekker saam  :sip:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Crossed-up on July 25, 2017, 01:36:50 pm
Enjoying your report. You write lekker.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 01:48:06 pm
Day 3 Monday

Up by 6am to depart by 7h30am...got to reach Kamanjab today to make up for lost time. I have schedule to stick too dammit!!

Friendlie overland lady at campsite next to me offers a morning coffee...this means I dont have to fire up the camping stove so I wander over for a coffee ciggie and a chat.

Her client...a pretty teacher wanders up to interrogate me. Dont know if she was worried about the kids she was in charge of or if she was looking for some "company"...for the benefit of my ego I will choose the latter and leave it at that. "Jammer juffrou...die show moet aan...volgende keer dalk >:D"

Straight tar road ahead...moon on my West and sun on my East....and piss cold. If that juffrou only knew the effect of the cold on my manhood she would not have bothered with the chat. LOL

5500rpm again as soon as daylight is enough. Landscape becoming more "African". I dare say the AIDS is slowly on the decline...I hope.

On my navigation app (OsmAnd) I get an altitude reading....1600m ASL as I approach Windhoek. Surprising as the yourney seems flat...you dont realize you are climbing so high. Reach Windhoek at about 10am. Joe's Beerhouse is closed so I head to Yamaha for a new rear tube (spare) and then stop at one of these universal coffee shops one seems to get nowaday in any big city. Brekkie, coffee and some ciggies.

Check bike over and fill up my Tutoro chain oiler.

Fine tar up to Okahanja...then the road turms to the Warthog Expressway...buggers are everywhere so I slow down to a sedate 100/110km/h. They are quite big and I dont want to have another murder on my hands....after Frikkie the low Flyer the death of Puumba will not be forgiven.

Stop at Otjiwarango...16l for 280km...thats more like it. My credit card utters a sigh of relief.

Whilst munching on some NikNaks and a Coke I check the bike over. WTF?!?! The lid of my Tutoro is gone :'(. Now I went to great lengths to import this specific oiler from the UK and now due to my negligence the lid is gone. Fuck. Fuck you you idiot. I had visions of the sclep involved to order a new lid. Then in a blink...fuckit...its only a lit. Fix and move on you idiot. So an N$8 pack of condoms saved the day (multi colour nogal).

Top up again at Outjo and reach Oppi-Koppie in Kamanjab at 17h30.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 01:49:22 pm
Thanks Crossed-Up...my turn to write for a change ::)

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 01:51:31 pm
Some more
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Roxtar on July 25, 2017, 01:56:35 pm
Luv the horns man............. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Hotwire on July 25, 2017, 01:56:39 pm
Hoe lekker ry ek saam... gooi hom pappie!!!

Sent from my HUAWEI GRA-L09 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 02:01:52 pm
Night 3 Oppi-Fokken-Koppi

My pizza and the some attempts at artsy moonrize over Tenere (failed)

A word on my accommodation for the night...Oppi-Koppie in Kamanjab.

Fokken Pielle :thumleft:

During my Google fueled trip planning Oppi-Koppi Kamanjab literally looked like a bed for the night type of place. How wrong Google was!!!

I arrived and are met by a friendly Afrikaaans game ranger type of chap..."ja enige tyd...ons het plek vir jou" ...Me: "Hoeveel vir kamp vir een aand?" Ranger type dude: "Nee ons cater vir overlanders...dit is verniet".

Slaan my dood met n pap snoek...verniet?! I had a clean safe campspot, hot water and ablutions (clean nd HOT), free Wi-Fi, bar, resturant...fuck man the guys wife was even hot. How does an idiot like me luck into a spot like this?!

Needless to say I felt obliged to drop some N$ at the bar and restuarant. Well even that was more than what I bargained for...the topping on that pizza was almost an inch thick. And those that know me I can pack it in...not this night...three slices was sent back. Also over dinner some dassies and a Gennit Cat (?) by the pool...until the dogs smelled them and gave chase.

If you are looking for a base for Kaokoland...check out Oppi-Koppi :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ROOI on July 25, 2017, 02:30:18 pm
Sub :deal:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 02:33:57 pm
Day 4  Tuesday

Up by 7am and go and drop some more N$ at the restaurant for brekkie. Got my photo taken for their overland book...I will be XT660z #3 on the 2016/2017 red file  8)

Today is the last of the tarmac so I take it easy...some warthog and springbok. Then police checkpoint. Lots of crashed cars at the checkpoint...the result of the cattle farming in that area. They farm with cattle extensively...but no fences! Cattle literally everywhere....take it easy if travelling there. This now the C35 Kamanjab to Ruacana.

Landscape slowly changing...less bush and more rocks.

At my second smoke stop at 200km roughly the following plays itself out:

I am standing there having taken some pics next to the road. Enjoying a ciggie and taking in the morning. I observe a new white BMW X3 approaching from the North at a moer of a spoed. I thought...what fucking gansta idiot is this now?! P03s.

Then after nearly connecting a cow the X3 swerves of the embankbent and comes to a screeching halt right next to my bike...Oh p03s!

Two black dudes jumps out. My first reaction as a crime terrorized Saffer is "O fok...hier kom kak!"
No I ride in MX books so running wasnt an option...and in all the bleddie ATGATT I did not even thing I could throw a decent punch. Fuck.

Then I started actually pay .hang on a minute. Thse guys are dressed well. Casual but expensive. Gangsters? Mafia?

Look again...one with the Ray-Ban Aviators has a Tafel can in hand...what ganster drinks Tafel?!

Then the bubble burst with a barrage of questios:

"Where you from, where you going, why you alone, how long, how fat etc etc etc"

The penny dropped...Van Rooyen you fucking idiot...these guys are busy with a long drive to Windhoek and you are simply something interesting along the way. They were genuinely friendly and interested. We spent about 15mins just chatting and then they were of again at a spoed.

I stood there and felt like a right prick...so far this country has been nothing but kind to me, especially the people. Not one begger, skew look, remark...nothing but kindness. Take your RSA crime paranoia and shove it up ur arse boet. This is Nam :thumleft:

Arrive at Puma garage in Ruacana mid afternoon. Bike back on 20km/l :thumleft:

Fill up with fuel as well as 2 x 2l coke bottles and my Desert Fox bladder. I knew next fuel at Okangwati woud be expensive so rather stock up here.

The garage shop is well stocked. From fishing rods to tubeless repair kit. No bike tubes though.

Then off to Kunene River Lodge about 60km on. I passed the bulldoser clearing the vegetation next to the road once on the gravel...mmmm so it seems the rumours of the Swartbooisdrift road upgrade may be true after all.

Gravel is a bit tricky as the doser had just worked it so although it appeared smooth it was rather loose and uneaven with some holes.

Luckily my OsmAnd directed me to the old track that runs closer to the river. So onto the 2 spoor sandy track it was :biggrin:. I manage to interweave the two and rode as much of the old track to Kunene Lodge as possible.

Booked into Kunene Campsite and had dinner on the deck. Met Volker and hit daughter from Walvisbaai...he gave me some route advise and invited me for coffee. He  showed me some footage he took with his drome of the Marienfluss. He advised that after last years rain the area was exceptionally green and special to view. He recommended the Community Campsite and not my planned Camp Syncro at the top of the Marienfluss.

The lady that runs the lodge said the road is now upgraded all the way through Swartbooisdrift to Opuwo :'(. She reckoned 3 hrs by car. Shit.

My phone did not charge so lekker on the bike so I begged a charge from the lady at reception.

Although my plan was to change the worn out E07 rear at Kunene Lodge and put on the new D606 I decided not too as the tyre was still ok and the road supposedly improved.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 02:39:26 pm
nog

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 02:52:18 pm
Something that made me laugh:

So at Oppi-Koppi with the free Wi-Fi I thought it a good idea at the time to Wassap all the photos I took so far to the missus. Then she can enjoy them so long and also have a copy in case my phone fucks out.

So I just selected all and sent them...checking every now and again while munching my pizza to see how the upload is going.

Well you remember the oiler and condom? This photo was part of a bunch of 75 I sent her.

During that evenings compulsory call home to check in the conversation when something like:

Me: "I Wassap you the pics so long"

SWAMBO: " Yes got them thanks. Why is there a condom on your bike?"

Me: "I lost the lid of the Tutoro, I had to make a lan so put a Johnnie over it"

SWAMBO: " Erm I see...well prepared you are...you even have condoms stashed away on the bike!"

Me: " Erm no honey...I had to buy them. N$8 for 3, multi colour nogal"

SWAMBO: " Ja right!"

I thought to myself...why is it that they (your better half) never seem to miss a thing?! I mean I can show her a picture of the Tutoro oiler and she would not know what she was looking at...but put an FL on it and hide it amongst 745 other pics...shared via Wassap (small pics) and she finds it within seconds.

I just laughed.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: slicknick on July 25, 2017, 03:01:08 pm
 :laughing4:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: JC on July 25, 2017, 03:06:41 pm
 :thumleft: report!

rode that Gamkab piece with Weskus and Nimmo last year and it was the highlight of the trip

 
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 03:34:16 pm
Day 5 Wednesday

Get going by 9h30 am.

OsmAnd keeps pointing me towards the old road...I follow the advice and is rewarded with some (about 20km)  lekker sandy twisty tweespoor.

Some water crossings but all easy. Some dry sandy crossings also easy...the baby Ten was proving its mettle. "I am your little pack mule...I will get you there"

Some cattle, small bokkie...Himba girl with tits straight from the Heffner mansion (nearly dropped the bike when I did a lookback for a second viewing >:D)

Stopped at some palm trees with the spikes to climb them. The Himbas make beer in then as reported in Metal Jockey reports. I did not see any Himba men working the trees though. I surmised that it must not be beer season being winter? Later I learned that the Nam goverment outlawed the practice as the Himba beer making practice kills the trees.

Stopped at the Omuhonga riverbed for a smoke and the change the GPX file I was using for navigation. Google maps have an interuption in the road here so could not route it in one go.

Fair amount of 4x4 holiday makers...some (mostly Saffers) stopped to see if I was OK. Their presence, although annoying with the dust did assure me that should something go wrong there would be someone passing eventually in a 4x4. So I was flying solo but I was not alone :thumleft:

Road became easy like a normal Karoo gravel road. Easy good times 8)

Arrived at Opuwu Falls roughly 12h30 and checked into the Campsite.

Katenga (?) booked me in and immediately asked about the extra tyre. When I explained that it is not a spare but that I will be doing a tyre change he ws delighted when I offered him the old tyre. Apparently they struggle to find non-steelbelt tyres. They make sandals for the Himba cattle herder boys with the tyres. He was stokes with the tyre. Himba herdsmen on Mitas E07 soon boys :thumleft:

Met Thomas (Swiss-German ). He travels the world shooting travelling documentaries. We hit it off well and shared some stories, philosophies and went for dinner at the lodge. He was also travelling solo so also appreciated the company. He rides a GS1200 back home and we could connect on that universal biking way.

Tyre change went smoothly and also fixed loose shift lever. Had a beer at the bar and bought 7l of water.

Later the arvie I went for walkabouts to see the falls and to look for crocs. No crocs but found some piggies having an absolute feast on some roots they dug up.

The Opowu village seemed slow and typical of an African village with too much Western influence and now relying on this Western influence for its survival. I skipped on the Himba tours on offer...seemed "aangeplak"...I will go find my Himba in the wild thank you.

Swim in the pool and Katenga comes to tell me I must rather not as they had to put poison it the pool to clean it. Huh?
I ask him to show me this poison...turns out to be normal HTC Chlorine :laughing4: Poison my arse.

Then Whilst relaxing in my Hammock the local freelance Himba guide "John " approaches me to try and sell me a tour. Ipad in hand and all...no thanks mate! Business must have been slow as we spend the next 30mins shooting the breeze. Interesting topic that came up was the price of cattle. N$4-6k for an Ox. N$2-3k for a cow. Next impoverished Himba herdsman you ride past...count his cattle. These guys are loaded man :thumleft:

Dinner with Swiss Thomas and his guide (local) Owen. Owen turns out to be quite the find. He works as a guide, involved in politics both Kaokoland and Angola and owns a few fuel depots. http://www.kaokolandguides.com/guides/
I will remember him when travelling this part of the world again.

He had alot of good to say about the Portugese influence in Angola and how it taught the locals to work for themselves.

PS: Picture of the dish...no its not a TV dish. Thats VSAT. How the interwebs get to the lodge. I do marine version of this so found it interesting.

 







Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 03:36:32 pm
nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 03:39:25 pm
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 03:42:17 pm
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 03:45:21 pm
nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 03:48:28 pm
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on July 25, 2017, 04:32:33 pm
Epupa Falls is a stunning place. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 04:44:22 pm
At this stage I was settling into the trip nicely. The AIDS was nearly all gone and most of my preconceived apprehension of a solo trip was falling away one by one.

I was planning on a rest day for Day 6 but since the Swartbooisdrift road was a non event I decided to rather press on and get the Van Zyls Pass leg done with. Little did I know I would regret the lack of a rest day...

If the trip was going to come to a grinding halt then this was one of the legs that could possible be the cause of it.

Day 6 Thursday

Owen dropped of 5l of fuel as agreed on the night before at exctly 6h45 am...reliable as a Swiss watch this man :thumleft:

R20p/l for the fuel...steep when fuel in Nam is N$10.90 p/l. But we were about 180km from the nearest fuel station...so cheap really.

Get going by 9h30am SA time (Nam has daylight savings in winter and is 1hr behind us).

Bike is packed heavy. (25l fuel + 6.6l bladder + 2 x 2l Coke Bottles + 6l water)

First leg to Okangwati was very beautifull.

 Good road, green veld and fat cattle. Lots of dust in the air from the 4x4 traffic and no wind so very hard to pass...

Bought 5l of fuel at Okangwati and had some delicious vetkoek. Some of our local boere Tannies can go and take lessons from the Himba on making Vetkoek :pot: Get some bully beef and beens as well for provisions.

As soon as I leave Okangwati the big dirt road disappears and turns to a proper 2 spoor. Mmmmm...this was only supposed to happen closer to Van Zyls Pass. I later learn from Oom Tiempie that this was a proper graded road but that after the heavy rains last year nature just reclaimed it.

Sandy twee spoor, rutted out climbs, loose rocky climbs with big bedrock steps sticking out inbetween. Fuck me Fiddlesticks...what was VZP going to look like?! The going was slow and steady...dont need to buy the farms just yet. Had a close call when I lost the negotiation with a thornbush on lane occupancy around a corner. I was ejected over the middlemannetjie and came to a screeching halt by sticking out my mx boot to prevent a full on connection with aforementioned thornbush' neighbour.

Steady on Van Rooyen...just keep on plodding. You have done much harder than this...Ja jou donner op n ligter plastiek bike fok.

Missed VZP turnoff but luckily my OsmAnd corrected the error of my ways.

Passed Himba settlements and VZP Campsite. Couple of steep staircase like rocky ascents follows...and then some staircase type descents.

I come to a cairn with rocks with names and shit on...I thought:"oh, VZP. Was that it? Not easy but not so bad...what is everyone on about?" Have a ciggie and feel well chuffed with myself ;)

Van Rooyen jou dom twatwaffle...daai cairn was nie die een onder VZP nie! Jou poephol.

I realise this a few kilometers on after some more staircase like climbs. Fuck...this is taking forever. I still want to get to Camp Syncro.

Up one loose rocky climb after a dry stream crossing (you enter it on a turn so cannot view your whole line for the climb unless you walk it first...too much effort) a 40cm vertical step at the end of the climb. Normally not an issue on a plastic bike but on fat arsed Ten? Well as I did not walk the climb first instincs took over and I rode it as I would a plastic. Pielle :thumleft:...I thought as the Ten launched clear of the rock step.

And then we cam down to earth. Touchdown....and stall...and fall over. P03S :dousing:. Dit fokken warm en die kak is nou nie meer snaaks nie. Did I damage my bike? Pick up the beastie...it was lying slightly downhill but I managed...eks kak sterk as ek bedonnerd raak :thumleft:

Start bike and walk it a few meters on to where the road levels enough to use the side stand. Instect....no damage. Thank you Mr Yamaha for building such a "werk-esel" of a motorbike.

Now here follows a bit of hard to believe:

I lit a ciggie. My hands were starting to cramp so I felt I deserved a break. Whilst smoking I walked back the 5m or so to where the bike dropped. Staring at the ground as I walk there. Now dont ask me why I did this...I do not know.

What is it covered in dust there. A plug of sort...pick it up wondering what 4 x 4 bit broke of here.

No wait...I dont believe it. Its the lid of my Tutoro oiler. Fuck me ! What stroke of goodfortune!! How did this lid get stuck on the bike all the way from Windhoek? Only to fall out here? And why did I walk back? Strange...I thanked whatever force was at work here and moved on.

It was so hot my phone dd not want to charge...so I was imited for photos.

Made it to the bottom of VZP without incident. Its steep down there and loose. The actual rock step part is fine...its the general steepness that does not allow you to ride against compression at parts as you would gather too much speed to bring t back n control again on a loaded bike.

Took a few pics and plakked my gat down under a shade tree. Smoked 3 ciggies. It was hot and I was slightly irritated with myself....VZP on a light unloaded trail bike. Fun solo fast no issue...on my overloaded pig in this heat alone...maybe not my brightest idea. Nothng went wrong but I sat there thinking/feeling that I perhaps just dodged a bullet. Or was it the result of my upbringing where one was kept in line by fear of consequences of "incorrect" action? Fuck knows...perhaps my bloodsugar was just low.

I ate a bit, drank a bit and smoked some more.

Some Himba kids were there with their cattle but the language barrier was to much. They only do Himba...no Die Taal or the Queen's English I am afraid.

Some Saffers came up for a day trip from Purros in their 4 x 4's....they flew their drone. I wandered over for a chat.

I was fairly buggered...the 60km to Camp Syncro started to concern me. In this heat how bad will the sand be? I am no Marc Coma but normally I can manage sand just fine...but tired and I was not so sure anymore.

Ah well...fuckit. As ek hier moet neerslet dan moet ek nou maar...lets get it over with then.

Turns out the sand wasnt too deep at all...some tricky sections but then big open corrugated sections that went by at 90km/h. Ostrich, cattle, springbok and 2 herds of big Gemsbok...it was beautiful but most of it was wasted on me as I was 100% focussed on the 2 spoor and pinning it to Syncro before sunset.

Last 10km to Syncro was like a proper corrugated to fuck highway of sand with some rock lurkers inbetween. I was tyred and thirsty....I did not care anymore. Pin it to win it!!! Cold beer awaits at Syncro.

Arrived at 16h30ish and Ryan booked me it. 2 Cokes and an ice cold Windhoek later I started to feel like a human being again. Chatted to Ryan a bit and shared some of my ciggies with him. Once humanized again I walked back to set up my tent etc.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 04:47:55 pm
nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 04:52:34 pm
nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: katana on July 25, 2017, 04:55:00 pm
Daar is ek ook nou by.  Lekker report.  Wens ek het saamgegaan.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 04:55:25 pm
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 04:55:54 pm
Well you were invited >:D
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 05:10:49 pm
Right...no fotos for this post but it was on Night 6 that I learned a few humble lessons:

1. 4 x 4 vehicles. Makes dust and corrugations...very annoying. Although they are loaded with fresh food, water, spares and nice food. They are also loaded with warm hearted and sometimes very knowledgeable people.
2. When alone on your bike in Kaokoland...make friends everywhere you go. You may need them later or they may need you.
3. Reserve your judgement of people...I was forced to reprimand myself a few days later. What a tosser I can be.

Poured 6.6l fuel from Desert Fox bladder into my tank...roughly 20km/l. Not bad.

Saffers camped next to me started chatting to me one by one as they passed me on the way too beer at Ryan's house. Next thing I get invited for dinner :thumleft:

I have nothing to add to the feast except stories. Felt like a right leech :(. It was during this dinner prepared by the boere tannies (got bless their souls) that I got to meet Oom Tiempie. A 25yr Kaokoland veteran. He knows the place like the back of his hnd. He had some interesting stories of strange shit they have seen over the years. Him and his dad planted Groendrom.

Over brekkie the next morning Oom Tiempie took out the map and gave me some good route advice to marble Camp, put a rest to my concerns about Rooidrom pass and gave me some tips to avoid the fesh-fesh coming out of Hoanib close to Sesfontein (which I promptly fucked up later...idiot).

Lovely people. Perhaps the fact that I am Afrikaans helped but they made me feel right at home and I let go of any solo riding concerns I may have still held at that point.

Whilst preparing dinner another bunch of Saffers pulled up. I was lying in my hammock and the one Oom made comments to his mates about how stupid I must be and irresponsible to be riding on my own. This now 10m away from me...does he think I am deaf? Then while we are having dinner this group breaks out in song. Evangelie Lofsange...uit volle bors. WTF?! Now I was raised Nederduids Gereformeerd and have had my fair share of disagreements with the church. This group did not go down well with me and I had the audacity to voice this too Oom Tiempies group over dinner. How I was to learn a few days later what a royal p03s I was for this judgement I so willingly bestowed on people I do not know from a bar of soap.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: 8minmark on July 25, 2017, 05:36:29 pm
What an excellent story. Waiting for more.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 06:11:41 pm
Day 7 Friday

After coffee and maps with Oom Tiempie I go and brush my teeth. One onf the lads of the Oom Tiempie group wanders over and gives me a handfull of Wilson Toffees...the pity people take on the solo motorcyclist :thumleft: I loved it.

Fucking phone battery is almost flat again. I really need to sort out a photo/nav system separate from one another. This was driving me nuts...best riding ever and I cannot take as many pics as i want. Fokken onnosel Van Rooyen.

Get going by 9am

Oom Tiempie's route advise s spot on. I deviates slightly from the GPX file Dave created for me...avoiding an unneccesary rocky hillclimb and large corrugated section.  I eventually reach the spaza shop Oom Tiempie told me about (this is stil 20km up the Fluss from Orupembe). Have a Coke and get annoyed by the local drunk...fuck this irritates me. Alchohol at its worse...people drinking away their meagre future cause of boredom? Dunno but I really dislike it...so I head out after I tell him he can work for his own money after he begs from me.

Sand this morning down the Fluss was amazeballs...110km/h in sections...luvverly.

After some sand 2 spoor chicanes and further lane negotiations with thornbushes I reach Rooidrom. Ciggie and some foties and I am off.

Rooidrom pass came and went without too much issues...the Ten simply tractoring up in 1st gear.

A note on hillclimb technique here...at least what worked for me. I had to adjust my "pin it to win it" approach as with all the loose rock the bike would just get pinged offline...and when not it would start bouncing over all the exposed bedrock. I found a better approach was to copy the 4x4. Just keep enough momentum to keep going, keep traction and avail bouncing and wheelspin. Worked for me and meant my speed was  a fall should theoretically be less of a show stopper.

The going was rocky and loose. It was only 11am and hot as the devil's armpit already. My hands were also not recovered fully from the VZP leg so I just motored on too Marbe Camp.

Stopped at the Marble Mine and took some pics. Fucking phone is still not charging.
Noticed my left rear indicator is gone. Farksakes I just replaced the rear indicators before the trip at the pricely amount of R850 LED nogal. Well Oxford LED indicators from England clearly are not built for Africa.

Arrive at Campsite...basic but nice. No drinks, food or hot water. Check bike oil level (100%   :)) Replace Tutoro cap.

Tyres seems to be lasting. A note on tyre pressures...I cannot be arsed. Front was 3 bar when I left home and the new rear I pumped to 2.5bar. I left them like that for the rest of the trip. The Ten have fairly soft rims and I hate fixing flats so I erred on the side of caution. The 3 bar front may be the cause of my hands taking strain though...

I still have this lingering unease...almost like my subconscious is berating me for VZP. Weird...Oh well...we live we learn. I try and shrug it off.

I spent the latter half of todays ride thinking that a CRF 250 Rally with lightweight kit may be just the ticket for Kaokoland. But them again....overspecialization dammit. Ride the bike you have...its not about the gear but about the journey you fool...I berate myself.

Hopefully the Ten did not hear me. She truly is a do it all mule. Doesnt complain and keeps on ticking.

I arrived at the Marble Camp just after 12 and after being lazy and hydrating I realized I better find a charge solution for the damn phone. I do not want to risk charging it from the bike without the engine running.

I hear cars approaching...oh no. Dis die Evangelie groep wat my by Camp Syncro ge-irriteer het. Great...Lofliedere vir aandete.

And here I was fed humble pie in the biggest way possible.

After some friendly banter over the camp fence all that travels in a 4 x 4 was offered to me:

1. Charged my phone
2. Fed me dinned with desert
3. Prayed for me
4. Shared stories
5. Showed a genuine interest in me and what I was doing here

I felt like such a proes straat pretoria. They were not aware of my judgement at Camp Syncro but I was pissed at myself. Out of guilt I took it upon myself to sort out the main Oom's iphone and Tracks 4 Africa app as he was struggling with it. This involved a 5 min satphone call to the missus to talk me through iOS as I am an Android animal. Got it working though. The main Oom was a quadraplegic...his Cruiser was modified so he could drive it. They also had a  late model VW diesel 4 x 4 Syncro in their group...that bloody van went over Rooidrom Pass without any lowrange or difflock or tow assist. Unbelievable.

Something funny inbetween all the humble pie I was chewing on:

After dinner the compulsory Evangelie Songs were sang. They even handed me a Gesang Boek. Now I refuse to sing in church...always have and always will. So I kept respectfully quiet whilst reading along. What did strike me was how upbeat the whole affair was...very different to my NG Kerk upbringing.

After song and praying I felt I had to say something...it went something like this:

Me: "Ekskuus maar van watter fakulteit kerk is julle"

Tannie: "Jy meer dominasie?"

Ek: "Ja ek meen so"

Dominee (yes they really had a dominee with them :thumleft:): "Andre, wel ons is van die Evangele bla bla bla..." (Sorry I am foggy on the detail)

Ek: "Wel ek is NG Kerk grootgemaak en ek moet net aanmerking maak van hoe veel meer aangenaam julle dominasie voorkom. By ons word jy vir 50 minute gese hoe sleg jy is en hoe jy sondig, dan se ons vir 10 minute jammer vir hoe sleg ons is en dan sit ons die dankie in die kollekte piering!"

The Dominee nearly fell of his chair laughing. I made some friends :) And I will meet them again later on this trip.

They are also heading for Purros along the same route so  was not alone.


 

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 06:14:07 pm
nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 06:17:53 pm
Thank you for the words of encouragement.

Part of the motivation to commit this to writing is so that I can look back at it years from now.

Time tends to wash memories and slightly alter them...and our day to day life in the cities tends to bring out our cynical side (at least mine).

Once jaded and stressed by normal life I hope to look back and be reminded of the gems (people as much as places) that I mined in Namibia :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: MudCakedFace on July 25, 2017, 06:48:07 pm
What a gem of report - love your writing style and photos!

Thanks for sharing, keep it coming  O0
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 07:18:30 pm
Thank you and it is my privilege and pleasure to share.

Sorting out dinner and then Day 8 to follow...on Day 8 we hunt Elephants >:D

With a camera of course :3some:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 08:24:17 pm
Day 8 Saturday

Bid my farewells to the Evangelie Group and wished them all the best. Got going at around 9 am.

GPS confused me a bit with all the tracks running all over the place...a few U-Turns and eventually start making my way to Orupembe.

I notice quite a few little signs handpainted for petrol...I ignore them as I am still good for fuel and am counting on a few litres at Orupembe.

Ja Van Rooyen...jy wil nie leer nie. Never drive past a fuel point in Kaokoland without filling up you bloody idiot!! Especially in peak holiday season poephol.

About 15km from Orupembe I am on a loose rocky twin track. I see an old Hilux Double cab approaching from the opposite direction going very slowly with only one occupant. I pull over to the side. He stops...ZA plates. I ask if he is ok..."Ja fine just lost some luggage"...

Me: "Your wasjing basin and vanity case is about 2km further down the road...just drove past it"

I wish him good luck and carry on.

2km down the road I find his wife trying to gather the scattered remains of the cooler box and its contents.

Me: "You OK?"

She: " Yes fine they just lost some luggage"

Me: "Yes I just passed your washing basin and vanity case and husband"

She laughed and mentioned how much of a beating they were taking on the bad roads. They were from Merweville and was travelling alone with only a shitty paper map. She also mentioned they only had 100km fuel left. I wished her luck and headed for Orupembe.

Needless to say by the time I reached Orupembe my conscience was already berating me...how could you leave them like that you selfish prick? Kak style Van Rooyen :-[

I enquired at the police station about petrol...none.
I kicked the lady from Orupembe Shop 1 out of bed...petrol? None...
Asked some locals...no fooking petrol gringo.

Fuck.

I bought a coke and some cookies from the shop and stood there having a smoke. I had enough fuel to reach Purros...even if I continued my planned sortie down the Khumib and Hoarusib rivers.

But I could not get the elderly couple from Merweville out of my mind...

100km max range maybe in an old petrol Hilux. Paper map that does not even show distances on all legs between towns.

Fuck

Then 2 mins later...fuck it.

I will help them...Pay it Forward and all that.

I wait for them and when I see them up the road I signal for them to pull in by the shop.

I give them the bad news...no fuel. Jammer mense.

Then I gave them my plan: I will give them 5l thata I can spare and then if the follow the main road and drive slowly they will make Purros. Purros had a higher likelyhood for traffic (other Saffers) and possibly fuel depot than Orupembe. I would then buy fuel at Purros or possibly shoot to Sesfontein and back for refill after my riverbed sortie.

They agreed and Hendrik syphoned the 5l from my tank like a pro...I think he has done this before.

He was the Predikant in Merweville and his wife a teacher. On their holidays. Lovely people and they insisted that they pay for the fuel. I told them that their money is no good here and explained the Pay It Forward concept. They were so thankfull. We took a fotie and exchanged numbers.

Now here is another lesson I learned in Kaokoland...

The help you extend to a stranger is repaid exactly 5 fold. As in exactly....calculated mathemtically.

This was proven before the day was done.

Random observation:

Wherever I bought stuff from local spaza shops the most basic adding up of totals and calculating correct change is done with a calculator. It is enviable to see the desire to be accurate and not cheat the proprietor or patron out of cash. However it highlights the lack of basic mathematical education the local people have access too. It was really noticeable and a little sad. Hopefully this improves as I did notice alot of bush classrooms and desire to build more. The Himba is not a lazy race :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 08:30:31 pm
Dear Reader

Another apology is due...in my two fingered typing haste and lack of spellcheck I see my posts are almost unreadable in sections.

Once done with all the report I will backtrack and clean it up a bit :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 08:44:16 pm
Day 8 The riverbed Sortie

After wishing farewell to my new friends I set off down the main road to Opuwu...a few km later one crosses the Khumib Riverbed...and here you drop into the riverbed into Adv Riding Nirvana and head South to Adv Riding Vallhalla.

Not 5km down the riverbed and I nearly run into a long necked spotted horse standing in the riverbed. The surfave was loose gravelly sand with big rocks inbetween...it required most of my attention as I did not feel like falling and picking the bike up. 2n and 3rd gear steady on we go. Until we nearly drove into Mr Long Necked Spotted Horse. I remove the phone from the cradle and charge cable and try and take some foties of the dude blocking my way...I become aware of a presence on my right hand side. On the riverbank his mate is standing watching me..."Hey Gringo...what are you doing?" he tunes me. Me: "Just passing through, no worries". I get the phone back into navigation mode and race these two down the riverbed. Now for those inexperienced with racing Long Necked Horses down riverbeds (as I was) be forewarned...these guys are equipped with the best Baja Racing all terrain suspension setups available and at least a 1000HP under the hood. Between all the rocks and sand I did not stand a chance...it was lots of fun though :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 08:49:27 pm
My descent down Adv Riding heaven continued...

More Giraffe, Bouncy Buck, Gemsbok, Tall necked Chickens and cattle...and a landscape with views and vistas that just went on and on and on.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: plonker on July 25, 2017, 08:56:51 pm
Amazing Boet. You have a wonderful style and at times I was rolling on the floor with laughter , especially you trying to explain the condoms to the Missus. That was special. And the Himba chick with the perky tits. :imaposer: :imaposer:
I think we put this up for Report of the Year award.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 09:15:32 pm
Day 8 Taking care of domestic promises made prior to departure

Whenever the missus or I travel the deal is usually that we must bring the other something cool from afar. She specifically said something local and middle of nowhere for this trip.

"Yes dear, promise my dear" I said whilst thinking...dammit woman...I am on a bike where must a put the rakkie kakkie goeters you want from the middle of bum effing nowhere?!

Well halfway down the Khumib a solution was found in the form of Peet (?) or Piet (?)...not sure the man's name as again the language barrier was insurmountable. Him and his family eek out a living literally in the middle of nowhere...probably 25km down the river bed from the main road. No car or cart...I did not even spot a horse.

Bought some charms and jewelry. Obviously he did not have change for R200 so we swopped a few pieces around to get to a nice round total. He did not mind some pics and after every fotie I showed it to them on my phone much to their amusement. The joys of digital photography...

Needless to say once packed up with phone back in Nav mode his beautiful teenage daughter walks up. Dammit...sorry boys...no fotie.

I move on...its already getting hot. I stop on a koppie as one turns out of the Khumib to cross over to the Hoarasib. I smoke a ciggie and take in my surroundings..I am falling in love with the Kaokoland and with Namibia. I am at peace.


Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 09:17:09 pm
Thank you Plonker, glad you enjoyed it so far.

For those that enjoy British TV...I was merely "an idiot abroad" :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Xpat on July 25, 2017, 09:21:13 pm
Great reporting  :thumleft:

Don't worry about the typos - we all make the all the time and you report reads just fine.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 09:25:37 pm
Thanks Xpat...and thank you for your good reports on riding in this area. I relied heavily on them during my planning for this trip :thumleft:

If you are ever going to do the Namaqua Eco trial again let me know...I will be keen to ride along. I am an admirer of your style dude :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Xpat on July 25, 2017, 09:33:13 pm
Sure, I'll let you know when I'm heading that side - still have to do the sand along the west coast.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 09:39:19 pm
Right...where were we? Between Middel Van Nerens en Heemel Op Aarde if I recall correctly ;D

Day 8 Crossing Khumib to Hoarusib...the desert leg.

As I moved away from the riverbed the terrain got more rocky and the vegetation changed. I see lots of stripey horses and Bouncing bokkies. The landscape is amazing. This is what I came for. A sense of contentment washes over me.

I stop to take some snaps of stripey horses and bouncing bokkies...but alas my phone just doesnt allow decent foties at any range.

I am amazed at how fat and beautiful the zebras are...I only learn later during the trip that they are actually a special Zebra called the Berg Kwagga native to the region....goes to show how little I know about wildlife. In my defence...I am a Capie...only Dassies and Baboons here I am afraid.

I refuse to pay any form of admission to see a wild animal...if it is in a park/zoo/reserve then it surely is not wild anymore?! Here however I get treated to truly free wild running animals. No fences, no fees for admission but ones willingness to get out there. I was loving it.

I pass through the desert leg and slowly start the descent to the Hoarusib Riverbed.  There is a nervous excitement tinging in my left ball...the Elephant part starts in this riverbed. En ek is fokken kak bang vir Olifante!!! :peepwall:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 09:40:22 pm
XPat...Westcoast sand is a treat...done it a few times.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 10:04:11 pm
Day 8 The Hoarusib aka "Die knyp in my onderbroek aka Die Gemoeds Bekakking"

The Hoarusib Riverbed comes into view. I stop and stretch my hands a bit...I may have had a nervous smoke, I probably needed one.

I knew from my trip planning that the likelyhood of elephant encounters are high along this riverbed...and gets higher the closer to Purrus I get.

Honesty section: I was shitting bricks. I had no idea how technical the sand will be or how overgrown the track. So far from what I could see this part of the world was exceptionally green after the big rains of last year. Normally I fear no sand...it is soft enough to fall on and does not damage ones bike...as in its not a trip ender. I did not know however how I was supposed to do a pivot turn in a thickly overgrown riverbed when faced with an angry elephant bull.

Fuck

Fuckit...stalling was freaking me out more than moving. On with it...do or die...or die trying.

My GPS kept me on the Easter side of the riverbed and out of the thickest sand...I was starting to relax.

Then the track dipped down closes to the riverbed into a bushy twisty section. My range of vision was now seriously impaired...would I spot the Ellies early enough for a headstart to out run them. Surely an Ellie is slower than a giraffe and not equipped with Baja winning suspension? Then again an Ellie can just bulldoze through anything....did I mention I was shitting bricks? I lie...the brick has been shat...I was onlly breezeblocks now :o

As I move along I start spotting elephant tracks...and a few kays on some fresh (well it looked fresh OK?!) dung...then a km on some fresh urine stains.

Fuck...they are here somewhere. I proceed with caution. A tale 2TDan told me of a narrow escape he had on a bie with an elephant haunted me...Danie is much better than me on a bike and he reckons he barely made it. What the hell were you thinking Van Rooyen?!?!?!

I proceed...

And then poof...track opens up and the sign for the campsite appears. Phew...i though, made it.

I checked out the campsite. No reception and the local dude claiming to be the camp master struck me as dodgy. He had signs up for petrol but I did not ask. I asked if this was the community campsite...no sir it is private. Sorry...I move on.

Some lekka dik 2 spoor sand lter during which I nearly nearly got spat by my faithfull mule (too fast, front wheel dug in and I anded up headbutting my screen just for the forks to rebound and shoot me back straight...a not so gentle reminder to not get too lax) I stumbe into the next Campsite on the opposite riverbed. Omenje it was called.

In the next post we will be visiting the 5 times payback coefficient on Pay It Forward in Kaokoland....as well as go Walk and Stalk some of those Long Necked Spotted Horses :biggrin:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Bokveld on July 25, 2017, 10:43:19 pm
      By verre die beste RR in n lang tyd!  Thanks for sharing this experience of a lifetime.A solo ride is just special.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 10:46:49 pm
I pull in by Omenje Campsite by Reception. A lady in traditional dress recceives me...Space, yes sir, petrol no sir, food no sir, hot water yes sir. Sorted. Decide to pay her and then first head off to the Purros village to find fuel and then head back to set up camp.

I pay her the N$100...bargain. She points me to a campsite right on the edge of the riverbank. There is some saffers camped in the next campsite 50m up river. The chap recognise me...it was the drone flyers from VZP :). We chat a bit and I explain my fuel concerns. He offers 4-5 liters he had spare in a jerry can. I decline and tell him I will first check the village and if I dont come right get the fuel from him.

As I am about to leave Hendrik and his wife in the old Hilux pulls in...they made it :). I explain the fuel situation and mention that I saw petrol signs at the previous camp. They decide to go check that out.

As I head out my reserve light comes on...quick mental fuelling calcs reveal making Sesfontein may be risky.

I head for Purros...first depot only diesel, they refer me to Manchester United Store...the shebeen. It is just after lunch and the music is pumping...drunk patrons argue, dance and shout. Not my scene at all. I enter and after about 10 minutes finally gets assistance. Sorry sir...no fuel. Try shack over there with green roof. Fuckaround.

Go too green roof shack and there is no one there...I poke around and find an infant under a blanket with drawing crayons scattered over the floor...door ajar...no adult in sight. I get that uneasy feeling that this village is bad news. I poke around the fuel shed but only a little diesel left.

I decided fuckit...back to the campsite...I will grab that 5l and then head directly to Sesfontein for refuel and then come back for another riverbed sortie.

Back at the Campsite I saunter over to the Saffers for the precious 5l of petrol. No payment would be accepted and I even get offered an ice cold beer...I could not say no.

While standing around another oke of their party joins our banter.
He asks "Wat soek jy, soek jy petrol?"

I reply "Ja, jou vriend het klaar 5l gegee maar ek kan doen met nog".

He replies: "Nou hou op sukkel. Ek het 160 liter ekstra...maak vol die fokken bike"

I could not believe my luck. The detour to Sesfontein was averted. And they refused payment for the fuel. And they were heading same way as I was the next day...so again I was not alone. How I lucked into this I cannot explain :)

I can however give the mathematical calculation on the 5 times coefficient return on Pay It Forward in Kaokoland:

I give 5 liters

I get 20 liters plus free beer and back-up...all in the same day.

All I could do was shake my head. You lucky sod.

Lunch was Luncheon Roll... a palatable love child made when Bully Beef and Polony procreates.

Then after a power nap in my hammock I went for a walk around. Some landscape foties and then I spotted some Long Necked Spotted Horses. I wishes to get a close up so some Walk and Stalk ensued. It felt really good walking in the bush with only my phone, smokes and plakkies. No fences or rules...just me and the giraffes.

After the fuel charity I avoided the Saffers as I felt the inevitable dinner invite would come and I felt I have received enough of their charity for one day. Do not use your allotment of luck all in one go Van Rooyen...you may need some more on this trip.

Dinner was Bully Beef and Baked Beans. I heated it up on my MSR stove. It tasted great.

I slept like a baby.

PS: At this stage I was becoming very fond of the little Ten
PPS: That hole in the ground is about 3-4 meters deep and the water source for the campsite

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 10:52:42 pm
Nog van die landscape en Walk and Stalk

En dan is ek eers klaar vir vandag.

Dankie vir al die goeie wense...more gaan ons weer aan vir Olifant jag Dag 2 en Gemoedsbekakking #2...en hierdie keer was daar wel n bekakking. :peepwall:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 10:56:26 pm
Giraffes
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 11:01:37 pm
During a chat with the Saffers during after dinner coffee ( I went to go share Hoanib Fesh-fesh route advise that I got from Oom Tiempie) the Saffers mentioned they flew their drone down Purros Canyon today...lots of water!! We will see how far I get tomorrow.

I spot two jackel after sunset...

I am content

I can get used to this life.

Like my missus' father always tells me (he is Portuguse)..."There is no future in work!"

Damn skippy manual, damn skippy :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: 2StrokeDan on July 25, 2017, 11:02:24 pm
Jirre Andre, F.A. Venter se moer, jy skryf to oulik, en die fouties is ook mooi!

Respek, nie eke mens se koppie tee om alleen in die boendoe rond te ry nie.

Ek se vanmiddag vir Dave, nee ou Andre hardloop seker nog daar duskant Purros voor die leeus uit. Nou lees ek jy's terug. Kom kuier.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 25, 2017, 11:05:07 pm
Dankie Danie...ek is more oggend in Stellies vir n fietsry. Sal draai maak.

Trip was kort geknip...sal maar nie se hoekom nie. Nie nou al nie.

Sien jou more.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Phillip Flap on July 26, 2017, 06:01:37 am
Ingeskryf! Subscribed!
good reading, nice pictures.
Love the style.
good luck!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Amsterdam on July 26, 2017, 08:11:46 am
That is a tough place to ride on your lonesome, even if sand riding doesn't worry you.  Now you can see why I felt the need to do a bit of sand practice in the dunes with you and Malcolm some months ago?
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Rooi Wolf on July 26, 2017, 08:46:42 am
Lekker man, lekker. El solo is baie spesiaal en vat groot ballas in daai wÍreld.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on July 26, 2017, 08:55:37 am
to good , I'm never going to get any work done
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: BikerJan on July 26, 2017, 09:51:03 am
Baie mooi verslag, ek ry heerlik saam. Welgedaan!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Vis Arend on July 26, 2017, 09:59:25 am
Blerrie smart.  Koakoland / Damaraland is my wereld.  Hy het sy eie bekoring met daai niks rondom jou.   :thumleft:

Ek sien Epupa is redelik droog gewees.  Maar hy bly mooi.  As ek nie die rr gelees het sou ek nie geglo het dat daai stuk tussen Swartbooisdrift en Epupa is nou geteer nie.   :eek7:   

Ek haal my hoed af vir jou, wel gedaan sover, hiervandaan behoort dit makliker te gaan.  Hoop jy het die voorreg gehad om die Ellies te sien.  'n Bonus sou natuurlik 'n renoster of twee gewees het en dan die cherrie op die koek sou daai groot katte gewees.   :imaposer:

Kannie wag vir die res. 

PS.  Laaik jou skryf styl kwaai.     :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 26, 2017, 10:43:49 am
 :sip: Dankie tog, jy gee my 'n ruskans, moes nou drie blaaie lees, kan nie die hele dag voor die blerrie rekenaar sit nie.
Die draad raak verslawend.
Tx.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Snafu on July 26, 2017, 10:51:37 am
Hoogtyd vir n ordentlike RR

Lekker StrokeHer!!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Poenabul on July 26, 2017, 11:59:37 am
Baie nice, soos reeds gese is was weer hoogtyd vir n nice RR
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ROOI on July 26, 2017, 02:12:55 pm
 :biggrin: Ek geniet die lees en foto's die een is op my bucket list was al daar in 4x4 maar moet nog die bike soontoe vat   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: slicknick on July 26, 2017, 03:18:06 pm
jis, hierdie is lekker lees en saam ry. Fok werk, ek wag :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: plonker on July 26, 2017, 05:31:35 pm
Toe nou Tjom , ons wag    :ricky:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Dogless on July 26, 2017, 07:51:21 pm
Het myself ook vandag biki van die werk verskoon en die hele verslag  gelees. Lekker gegiggel. Dankie, hy loop soos stroop


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: plonker on July 26, 2017, 07:56:19 pm
Stroke her should write a book be a best seller :imaposer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Buff on July 26, 2017, 09:02:09 pm
I'm loving your RR, this area has been on my bucket list for ages and now it's been moved to position No.2  :thumleft:
Thanks for sharing it so well  :thumleft:  For a Dutchie you write very well in English, you had me laughing out loud at times, especially with that description of the bully beef/polony love child  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Oubones on July 26, 2017, 09:11:13 pm
Ook maar goed ek keer myself al heeldag om hier te begin lees.
Dit is nou lekker lusmaak RR die, ek het reeds die verkoue en die frustrasie wat die kop mal maak!
Hierdie voetspore wil ek nog gaan opsoek.
Dankie vir jou mooi skryf! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Pilchie on July 26, 2017, 09:51:53 pm
 :sip: more please
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 09:00:29 am
Dear Reader

Yet another apology...

Sorry for the delay but yesterday I had to go for a lekker cycle in Jonkershoek (cant spend the rest of my leave in front of a PC you know?!)

Then a family member visited and treated me and the missus for a steak dinner...during dinner said family member dropped a bit of a bomb on me and this had me so rattled that my normally reserved red wine intake was rapidly notched up.

Needless by the time we get home writing anything was just not possible.

But today I am back :thumleft:

RooiWolf:
The size of my ballas has been verified by independant partie(s) and the concensus is they are rather average :(. They do however tend to get quite hard when the situation calls for it >:D

Slim Jim:
Listen to my father in law old Manuel : "There is no future in work!"

Buff:
Although I am a boerseun work has always forced me to get familiar with the Queen's English. Also the missus is Portugese so my daily world tends to get quite muddled when it comes to language. But thank you for the compliment.

To all the rest thank you for reading and all the kind comments (undeserved I feel)...you guys motivate me to carry on typing :thumleft:



Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ROOI on July 27, 2017, 09:27:34 am
Dear Reader

Yet another apology...

Sorry for the delay but yesterday I had to go for a lekker cycle in Jonkershoek (cant spend the rest of my leave in front of a PC you know?!)

Then a family member visited and treated me and the missus for a steak dinner...during dinner said family member dropped a bit of a bomb on me and this had me so rattled that my normally reserved red wine intake was rapidly notched up.

Needless by the time we get home writing anything was just not possible.

But today I am back :thumleft:

RooiWolf:
The size of my ballas has been verified by independant partie(s) and the concensus is they are rather average :(. They do however tend to get quite hard when the situation calls for it >:D

Slim Jim:
Listen to my father in law old Manuel : "There is no future in work!"

Buff:
Although I am a boerseun work has always forced me to get familiar with the Queen's English. Also the missus is Portugese so my daily world tends to get quite muddled when it comes to language. But thank you for the compliment.

To all the rest thank you for reading and all the kind comments (undeserved I feel)...you guys motivate me to carry on typing :thumleft:
Hahahaa  :imaposer: So get on with it ,like old Manuel says there is no future in work so I need something else to occupy my time  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 09:53:55 am
Day 9: Sunday Bloody Sunday
           Olifant jag Dag 2 en Gemoedsbekakking #2


I get moving just as dawn breaks. Today is potentially a long day...I can feel it.

Luggage gets rationalized. My muesli and coffee intake has finally reached desired levels where I could get rid of the bulky plastic pots I was carrying it in. ZipLock for the win!!

I go say my goodbyes to the Saffers and wish then good luck. The breezeblock that I was busy shitting yesterday slowly made its presence known again. I was feeling just a little stressed as there was no signs of ellies passing the campsite last night. That means surely they must be further down river.

Shit a brick. Should I not rather just bail and take the big road to Sesfontein?

Undecided I get going...

The GPS once again confuses me a bit as it tries and auto routes me to the start of the GPX file for the day's riding.

Dis alweer p03s koud.

I ignore the GPS and head for some dirt road on the other side of the campside that I spotted during yesterday's walkabout.

Now you may wonder why this idiot would ignore prime riverbed 2 spoor and trade it for a few km of dirt road?

Well...especially when its a cold morning I like to have a little starter to warm up on. Like having coffee before breakfast.

I forgot to mention the dirt road had a few nice turns in it...with the perfect sprinkle of sandy gravel.

I allowed myself to forget my situation and location for a few km.

Fuck fuel economy, tire life and potential life threatening situation...I let the engine scream and get my drifting on.

Much fun was had and by the time I rerouted back to the Purros canyon via some 4x4 2 spoor my nerves we slightly settled and we downsized from breezeblock back to regular bricks.

Down the canyon I go.

Ma se p03s...kyk net al die water!!

A few km on I run into a big Gemsbok. For some reason Gerrie die Gemsbok does not want to leave the riverbed and runs downstream. I follow him for 2-3 km. Eventually he gets out the riverbed and gives me a vuil kyk. Ja Gerrie jou moer ook.

I was constantly crossing the river through ankle deep water!! Nice firm sandy bottom and no mud. It was awesome!

The baby Ten got a good wash in the process.

For those of you familiar with my chosen steed:
The baby Ten has a known issue on the connector of the regulator. If not sorted and waterproofed properly one can get screwed especially during river crossings.

I bought my Ten second hand and this was the one thing I did not double check as there seem to be some tape over the regulator connector.

This worried me a bit but after a few km of water riding without missing a beat I relaxed about that.

The canyon was green and the canyon was wet. I realized how privileged I was to see it like this.

All the greenery did have me slightly worried though as the track passed through some 2 spoor bushy sections where one gets out of the open and gets forced into the bushy confines on the edge of the main river flow.

Would I spot an ellie in time in this thicket I thought?

Hoe de fok gaan jy die bike omdraai Van Rooyen?!

Bimbo bimbles on...

No ellies...a few km later...still no ellies.

I start relaxing and keep it 2nd and 3rd gear with 2000-2500rpm...basically just bobbing along whilst keeping my noise footprint as low as possible as to not piss the ellies of wherever they are hiding.

I go into a daydream like state...

After the 50th time crossing the main flow I do not even bother checking the depth anymore. The water is crystal clear in any case...

And then a few crossings later....SPLOOOSH. I hit the only deeper pocket in the whole riverbed. Must have been 50cm or so deep. The water went straight over my head and woke me up from my trance. Gee aandag Van Rooyen.

It was getting hot so the splashdown was welcomed.

Desert biking my arse...this was more like waterworld.

At one point I thought it a good idea to park baby Ten in the main flow and stage a Hoarusib WildDog Bike Wash Station fotie.

Bad idea as the minute the bike stood still for more than a couple of seconds the sand started swallowing it. Fok dit...ek grawe nie die fiets hier uit nie.

I reached the narrow Poort section and had a smoke break.

Still no ellies.

Although I wished to see them I was actually relieved....the brick shrank . I calmed down..

Bimbo bimbles on...

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: woody1 on July 27, 2017, 10:01:47 am
Dankie vir die deel .  El ry lekker saam :ricky:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ROOI on July 27, 2017, 10:18:34 am
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 10:24:10 am
Day 9 Leaving the Hoarusib...

My GPS directs me to the left side of the rivver down a piece of bushy tweespoor.

It is proper riverbed sandbank and only the width of the tweespoor...lekker ruig met bosse.

From all the 4 x 4 traffic the tweespoor is deep and the middelmannetjie stands proud like a penis on honeymoon.

I go on and hit a spot of fesh fesh with middelmannetjie about 40cm high. I am in the left lane and slow down crawl...this fesh-fesh bulldust afair can end in tears. Keep it steady Van Rooyen.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 10:26:40 am
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 10:34:30 am
Day 9 Leaving the Hoarusib...Die Bekakking

As I gear down to 1st in the fesh-fesh I take a glance up to check the direction of the track...

Time freezes.

0.5 seconds the later the brick gets supersized back to breezeblock size.

30m ahead of me the elphant's head is sticking out over some bushes....staring right at me with that "wat maak jy boet?" expresssion only the Big 5 seems to be able to muster when their space gets intruded upon.

My guts went into free fall...the freshly supersized breezeblock has now officially been shat.

I could swear I felt the baby Ten's rear suspension dip as the aforementioned hitteth thine seat.

Fuck

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Snafu on July 27, 2017, 10:40:31 am
Nee man, gooi!!!!! ffs :)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Oupa Foe-rie on July 27, 2017, 11:17:38 am
Ouch .......... :eek7: :eek7:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: >Herman< on July 27, 2017, 11:22:11 am
Lekker report

"eks kak sterk as ek bedonnerd raak"
 :laughing4: :laughing4: :laughing4:

Skerp, baie skerp  :deal:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 11:54:36 am
We leave the tale here for now...I have friends over.

Sorry boys :)

Next installment we cover another one on Kaokoland's treasures which is instant upgrade of your riding ability to rally god status.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on July 27, 2017, 12:11:39 pm
Jy is lekker aspris...............................................................hou elke keer op met post by fyndraai!! ;) :lol8:

Ons wag geduldig vir jou goeie skryf talent. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Brink on July 27, 2017, 12:39:42 pm
 :ricky: :patch: :sip:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Snafu on July 27, 2017, 12:43:19 pm
Jy is lekker aspris...............................................................hou elke keer op met post by fyndraai!! ;) :lol8:

Ons wag geduldig vir jou goeie skryf talent. :thumleft:

Ten minste weet ons die fokker is nog met ons :)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Steekvlieg on July 27, 2017, 12:56:06 pm
 :peepwall:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: armpump on July 27, 2017, 01:06:40 pm
We leave the tale here for now...I have friends over.

Sorry boys :)

Next installment we cover another one on Kaokoland's treasures which is instant upgrade of your riding ability to rally god status.

Haha and the winner is ..................... right after this add break  :laughing4:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: bud500 on July 27, 2017, 03:23:37 pm
Lekker report!
What a trip!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 04:07:55 pm
Day 9: Rally god upgrade and The Traffic Jam

As time frose and the proverbial shait shat...I thought to myself:

"Do I dare try and get a fotie?"

My rational side tends to override my inquisitive side at moments like these:

"Fok boetie, vergeet die 'foto or it didnt happen' kak...roer jou gat voor Oupoot jou trap!"

And it was there then when Kaokoland approved my application for Rally God status.

A pivot turn ensued...well in my mind it was a pivot turn...in reality probably more a very wobbly u-turn.

I somehow cleared the substantial and very sandy middelmannetjie with my newfound trials skills. Toni Bou jy kan maar kom vir lesse...

A few meters of slight bundu bashing ensued followed by about 80m of sprint down the tweespoor. Laat ek dit so stel...Marc Coma sou agter geraak het.

I spot a fork ahead that flanks left to the clearing that is the man flow of the river.

Once clear of the vegetation I dare a look back to monitor what in my mind is a seriously livid Elephant bull in full pursuit.

During the look back 'dejavu'...remember the mention of the Himba girl? Alweer slet ek amper neer!

Wobble wobble and my attention is drawn back to the trail ahead. Fok bra as jy hier neerslet dan is dit verby!!!

I dare another quick look back to try and assure my subconscious that was busy generating full on Deffcon 9 level fight of flight response.

And the penny drops...

"Die olifant jaag jou nie jou dom twatwaffle!"

Relieved I go park the bike on a clearing on the bank. I stand around not sure what to do....then decide to carry on downstream.

Not 100m on and my GPS screams at me to turn around. I inspect, pan, zoom etc.

Jammer boet...terug afdraai toe met jou...daai s al plek uit"

I go back to the parking spot and climb up the ridge on the opposite back.

I stand there smoking and looking for an alternative exit from the riverbed that does not involve Erberg level enduro riding.

No nothing...

Ja boet...deur daai ruigte sal jy gaan. Dit al uitweg"

Fok

Fokkit

I sit there on the ridge and give the 'ruigte' a good stare down.

And there I spot the Elephant feeding in the dense bush.

My freshly scarred subconscious release a batch of scattered images of the imaged pursuit. I shudder.

After another smoke and an energy bar I start to calm down. It was hot.

The elephant was feeding steadily but alas, not really moving around much.

Fok....

Maar fokkit dis beautiful.

The elphant is about 120m ahead of my bike on the opposite bank. Stuff this I thought...

I will walk down and go get my fotie dammit. And then I will drive up and hoot/rev at the elie until it moves off.

"Yes, yes...get going boet."

I walk down to my bike and leave my jacket on my seat to enable a better change of escape...should I need to run.

I grab my phone and walk the sandy band to the edge of the vegetation. I start a slight bundu bash but vegetaion is sparce and I quickly make about 60m progress in the direction of the ellie.

No the vegetation gets taller and dense. I soon forgo any hopes I had of running. Mx boots is nie spikes nie jou poephol.

I get a few snaps but not of the photos are really good. I am frustrated as I cannot get closer. I backtrack and try another angle.

Then CRACK I step on a twig...

fokitfokitfokit

The elelphant turns his head and take a shouder forward...

A puff of wind...

Out come the ears.


fokitfokitfokit ekakinmybroek


All those chats from random strangers offering advise on the desert ellies come as one unified voice over my subconscious:

"As die ore uitkom dan pla jy die Olifant. Passop"

Fok dit!

First to Reverse

I slowly retreat as softly as possible to the bike.

I inspect the GPS again..."Nee boet, al pad hierdie"

And stuck.

I realise: "Hier gaan ons staan en wag...geen ander opsie"

Not fuck...no, not fuck at all.





Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 04:31:03 pm
Not fuck, no not fuck at all.

45mins of national Geographic prime time unfolds before me ;D

I sit and stare, quite confidant that my distance and elevated position would be sufficient.

"Assof jy iets weet van jag en sulke kak Van Rooyen"

Just as the nature show was about to get boring...is see another grey shape in the thicket.

"Ha...here we go, so you are not alone!"

And then the penny drops...

That is a baby ellie you moron.

A cold shiver runs down my spine...

That is not an elephant bull...its mother and child. I realize the caliber of bullit that was dodged...Another ciggy to calm the nerves.

Nature allowed me to finish my smoke...almost that she knew my mind has first got to find the right gear for what was to follow.

And then....out steps baby Ellie onto the sand embankement whilst mommy is still so meters behind feeding in the thicket.

Baby Ellie saunters over in the direction of Baby Ten.

At first I though...Ahw Sweet...how adorable. Baby elephants are so ouliks.

Then I notice it. Hang on, Baby Ellie has some houding.

Like a boxer walking into the stadium, theme song blaring, crowds cheering. Bristling with confidence.

Baby Ten locked eyes with Baby Ellie and returned that gaze of steel only a Japanese motorcycle can muster. "Wat kyk jy?!"

Baby Ellie pasues...

Baby Ten: "Im not moving Bambi"

Baby Ellie brings out the ears and raises the trunk a bit...

Baby Ten just continued the stare down...like a seasoned Samurai, unfaltering.

Baby Ellie decides: " Nee fok dit...die ysterperd is nie bang nie." and retreats back to the thicket and Mommy's arms.

Baby Ten dribbles a little puddle of oil in relief.





Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 04:50:43 pm
A while later the two emerges from the thicket a heads downstream.

The nature show draws to a close just as I could hear David Attenborough's voice going hees and the production assistant runs of to fetch him a Strepsil.

Wow...I thought.

I check the time...O Fok. It has been 3 hours since initial contact and I still have to do the desert leg and then the Hoanib up to Sesfontein :-\

I wait for them to be about 100m from my bike. I still haven't seen any more ellies in that thicket...

Fuckit...lets move.

I cautiously make my way through the thicket...my newfound rally god skill nowhere n sight.

Bimble on Bambi...wobble wobble.

As I head into the desert all signs of vegetation disappears. The track ascends onto the plateau via some dry riverbeds...as in you ride up them not across.

The going is very twisty, sandy shale gravel and corrugated.

It requires more attention than what I am able to muster after recent ellie episode and I have a few close ones.

Steady on dude...

Eventually the track hardens up and smooths out. Still twisty with dips though...2nd gear, 3rd gear and I let the arse hang out a bit to re align my shattered nerves.

Eventually I hit a 40km or so section of sandy autobahn...not deep but corrugated to shit. With the sun behind me I also struggled to read the texture of the road. A few headshakes form Baby Ten...like a race horse trying to rid itself of an incompetent jocky.

My hands were taking strain.



Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 05:03:41 pm
Day 9: The Hoanib

The track descends from the plateau on some dry river beds. 2 spoor corrugated...shat fine gravel that is almost sand but not yet. And with the sun from directly behind I was made to work for it.

It was hot...

My hands were now really hurting.

A started to feel my irritability level rise..

I reach the Hoanib. There is proper signage up that gives a map and warns you of No Entry to Skeleton Park or South of Hoanib.

I am too tired, hot and irritated to take pics.

Now what does one do with oneself when irritated alone in the desert? After all...you only have yourself to be angry with.

As I enter the riverbed 2 big giraffe runs off.

A few hundred meters up I get to a big tree with decent shade and good visibility allround.

Time for a break.

I smoke, eat some snacks...rehydrate.

Slowly my mind clears and click back into the correct gear.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Kreef on July 27, 2017, 05:19:37 pm
Lekker writing  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 05:33:15 pm
Cautiously up the riverbed I proceed.

The going is much more sandy than the Khumib...deep sandy 2 spoor. At least its proper white riversand so mostly 3rd gear.

I am relieved to find the terrain alot more open as well with reasonable lines of visibility.

Also no water...mmmm. Is this good for the ellie situation or bad I wondered.

The kilometers flashed by. 15km up the river still no elephant.

Lost of tracks, dung and torn off branches.

Fuck...

Hide and seek again.

I take a few wrong turns where the track forks. My GPS does not have topo maps so at first this messes me around a bit.

Soon enough I figure out that the tracks always rejoins...its simply running both sides of the main riverbed.

I relax and enjoy the ease with which progress is being made. Perhaps so of the Rally God firmware upgrade is sticking afterall? 8)

I come up tou a commercial tour with two vehicles parked in the riverbed...paying customers seated by tables and guests sat at a table with drinks...roughing it in true Victorians Safari style. Plonkers

I stop and switch off the bike. I stroll over to there guides that are standing aside at the rear vehicle. The chat was friendly yet stern. Yes there is ellies but they are further upstream at the standing water.

I get the vague impression that my presence is not really desired with them having paying clients there and all.

Ag maar fok julle ook I thought.

I proceed. About 5km upstream I nearly have another lane negotiation with an ellie but luckily I spotted him at about 50-60m and had enough space for that legenday Pivot Turn I have. Backtrack a bit and up the right hand side of the river.

The river clearly was in flood recently as the emankment makes a clear cliff in sections about 1-1.5m high.

At one stage the 2 spoor is quite deep sand and running parrallel to this eroded sand cliff about 10m to my left.

On the embankment the greenery flash by in my peripheral to my left as I speed past.

Then I pass some grey bushes ...I take a quick sharp look left. Fok...6-7 ellies on the embankment ears out!

I was doing about 50-60km/h so I pass by in a flash.

Phew

Further up I stop under a big shade tree.

Its hot...its getting late.

Another 45km to Warmquelle....probably 15km riverbed still.

Some foties. A ciggy and water.

Press on boet...you dont want to sleep out here tonight.

Get out into a section where the riverbed opens up (Elephant Song or something camp)

And then a gate with a dude demanding permit payment. Huh?

I pay the N$100 permit. No, no receipt.

So much for community uplifttment...more like community member upliftment I suspect.

So dodgy fesh-fesh later (I clearly fucked up Oom Tiempie's route) where I come to a grinding halt halfway into a thorn bush after being spat from a rut I eventually reach the main road.

30mins light left I reckon.

Fuck

I gun it to Sesfontein...the Yammerhammer in a din of RPM and flying gravel.

Arrive in Sesfontein...what a dump

Fuel...yes they have. Fill up at the normal N$10.90 p/l again. Could not be arsed to calculate consumption.

Off to lodge to check for food.

Yes food, yes N$1200 for a room, yes brekkie sir.

"Jammer, baie fokken jammer"  the deep pocketed and short fingered boer in me replied.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 05:49:38 pm
I head down to the spaze shop.

Bully beef and beans, ice cold Coke and Fanta and some cookies.

Smoke a ciggy whilst klapping the Coke and Fanta like I was playing down downs at a Frat party.

The original plan was for a rest day at Ongongo Falls...I did however not route that part beforehand on my GPS as a track. I just noticed the fall was indicated on the map.

I punched it in as a destination and got going. I estimated about 10km.

No those more experience that I at the inner workings of GPS Auto Routing software would have warned me to check the track the software suggest.

I did not.

What ensued was a short liaison stage on the D3710. Corrugated and rocky as hell. Getting dark and then runs past me.

Then Mr GPS directs me down a Westwards 2 spoor...very rocky and loose with a small Van Zyls Pass section. "WTF maak jy?!"

I recall that I did check the tracks on Google and I am supposed to be heading North. I veer off at the next fork and follow my nose a bit.

Eventually a small sign for the Campsite...then another.

I arrive only to be faced by a little stream crossing right in the middle of the campsite. Got through in one piece.

Book in, smoke while chatting to the brothers (Himba) that run the place for the owner. make donation to their classroom project.

Hammock out. Heat up food and eat. Again bully beef and beans...I am knackered and wolf it down.

Call home, shower and sleep. I slept in my hammock...too knackered to bother with the tent.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Snafu on July 27, 2017, 06:02:49 pm
Dit is mooi!!!

(http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=213041.0;attach=552318;image)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 06:11:23 pm
Day 10: Ninja Turtles and Allergies. On to Palwag we go

I wake up and have some cookies and coffee for brekkie.

The reception girl walks over to collect payment. N$150

Ha...moegoe and his boet said N$250 last night. Mmmm...classroom fund donation? I wonder.

I decide against the Rest Day. No food or cooldrinks here.

Palmwag is an easy 80km or so south along the C43.

I wonder over to the pool...water is clear and peacefull.

I walk up past the Falls and inspect the source. Its green and cool.

Recalling the turtles report by Metal Jocky I look for them.

I spot Leonardo in the shallows. Being the Ninja master he is he departs into the shadows of deeper water.

I reflect on yesterday. The big highlight part of the trip is now over...or so I thought. Again within the next Couple of days Nam will prove me wrong.

I mull over yesterday some more...in hindsight it was really not that bad. Was I over cautious with the ellies? I theorize elephant behaviour.

What a pussy you are Van Rooyen. The woodworkers in the Knysna forests all those years ago faced Ou Poot daily with only a voorlaaier as defence. You woosie.

Yesterday the phone struggled again to charge in the heat....I dared to charge it straight from the bike last night.

Pack up.

Turn key...was the phone charge too much for the battery?

Press starter.

The Yammerhammer fires too life...."don't doubt me you nonbeliever...don't you trust me yet. Have I not proven my mettle yet?! You do0s."





Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 06:13:19 pm
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 06:31:49 pm
Get going by 10am Nam time.

C43 is dusty with 4 x 4 traffic.

The road is ridden out...fuctap. I dont bother with a foto.

All I can think of is some RnR at Palmwag.

Closer to Palmwag the road get really bad. Corrugated with high gravel middelmannetjies and loose random rocks. Kak Kak Kak road.

I arrive at Palmwag and after some confusion about the number of nights I require I am booked into my campsite by the friendly staff. Place seems very posh and a bit like a tourist trap. Well you are a tourist you fool.

It was hot and I was at Campsite 12...the second last one and a bit of a walk. Set up camp and relaxed in the hammock a bit. Then off to the pool to get beer at the bar and eat before the bar stops serving food at 6pm or so.

There is an elephant in front of the main deck but as a camper I am not allowed on there? Typical attitude...rules and regs of a commercial institution catering for mainline upmarket tourism. I get a bit revved. They can keep their ellie...plenty of wild ones for me to find.

I am here for the food :)

Go have a beer at the pool. The mixed range of foreign accents fill my ears...this normally give a sense of a cosmopolitan vibe.

Not today...it was irritation me beyond measure. WTF....do I want to be here for a rest day?!

I think I picked up a known Kaokoland allergy: An allergy to people an civilization.

Somesort of schnitzel later I am fed and head back to camp. Some more quality hammock time...

Then off to bar again for early dinner...hamburger trumps schnitzel.

More hammock lounging, tunes, smokes and stargazing. Then a medium cold night.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 06:33:46 pm
Nog
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 06:51:19 pm
Day 11: Day of Rest, Yank behaviour studies and meeting Ou Poot's cousin

I wake up...brekkie at the restuarant is paid for and booked. 6am-9am

I have plenty time so go hammocking again.

I lie there still a bit miffed at my displiking of the place.

A rented 4x4 pulls in to the campsite next door. Yank, his son and sons friend pops out.

Great. Yanks. Dont ask me why but their accent irritates me.

You are here for RnR dammit...calm down Harriette.

I observe them as they set up their roof top tents. A surfboard and wetsuit gets whipped out as well. Uh?? Fokken weird my bru.

As I lie there observing them like some Nazi scientist would a lab rat I become aware of  shadow behind their camp's aftdakkie. Uh??

I wipe the sleep from my eyes.

I wake up. What...its a freaking elephant?!

They notice him too and get their cameras out.

He feeds on the tree right next to their camp.

I dare to get out my hammock to approach for a better angle.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:04:13 pm
I go stand behind my bike next to the dustbin.

Ou Poot's cousin approach. My thoughts were he would follow the road down to the bar...

Erm no...he hangs a left and pass 10m in front of me to feed on the trees on the riverbank bordering my campsite.

It was quite cool to observe how he picks of leaves and small twigs with the dexteriety on a banzai gardener...doing as litte damage to the trees as possible. Almost like he is pruning them...

Adrenaline levels are slightly raised...then he turns and comes closer to feed on the bush adjoining my afdakkie.

Adrenaline level goes up 2 notches.

Then a gust of wind. Hammock inflates with a audible pop.

Have you ever seen an elephant jump?!

Ellie, 2 meter gap, hammock, small tend, bike then me boxed in with nowhere to go.

Kak n baksteen.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:14:20 pm
Ellie gives the disrespectfull hammock a stare down...ears gets raised.

He is literally 5 meters directly ahead of me...I dont dare to move. I have no idea how good their eyesight is.

Eventually he relaxes and carry on feeding.

As he raises his head his eyes are blocked from direct line of sight. I take my chance and execute a hurried but quiet crawls between dustbin and Baby Ten.

Baby Tens smirks as I crawl pass: "Van Rooyen jou banggat."

I go stand by the Yanks. We have a quiet conversation and take some picks.

Ou Poot's cousin eventually move on down the road.

Sufficiently energized I head off to brekkie. Buffet...I make a pig of myself. I dont care. N$135...I am getting my monies worth dammit.

After brekkie more lounging about, hammocking, powernapping and general lazyness ensues.

Mmmm...Palmwag not so bad after all.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:16:26 pm
Blou voeels
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:18:05 pm
Woestyn Eekhoring
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:19:05 pm
Groot Poot

Thats a size 12 Havianna!!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:32:19 pm
After some more hammocking (yes being lazy seems to be the default setting here) I made my way down to the bar for late lunch.

Ordered a burger again...for the win :biggrin:

As I am sitting there sipping my Tafel (beer was cheaper than cooldrink promise honey) a teenage girl walks up.

"Erken oom my nie?"

Now she was too young so dont the lot of you now take this to the gutter... 8)

"Erm, wag so bietjie. Ja!"

Wragtig...Die Evangelie Group.

Hulle het kar probleme met haar oupa se Cruiser (paraplegiese oom I sorted Tracks4Africa out at Marble Camp).

I follow her round to the workshop area. Many smiles and warm hellos.

I offer help.

"nee boet dis reg ons is amper klaar"

The main filter screen that sits on the diesel tank was blocked. Tank drained, removed, filter cleaned and Cruizer was happy again.

I offered refreshment. Th littly girls dad mentioned something about a cold beer.

To action I go and couple of minutes lates that man is suckling on that cold Tafel like a calf on a teet.

They need to push on so I give them my business card and wish them good luck.

Small world.

Return to camp and sort out some bits and bobs for tomorrow's ride.

At this stage my luggage is bursting seams so I spend some time strapping them up a bit and getting rid of any surplus.




Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 07:35:39 pm
Luggage Disclaimer:

I bought a set of Gen 1 Enduristan Monsoon pannier second hand but unused.

They have been great and works really well on the panniers I welded up. Don't move and balance on the bike is good.

ChrisL already checked in on me and assured Gen 2 and 3 the seam issues have been resolved. Good service :thumleft:

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 27, 2017, 09:09:21 pm
 :sip: Nogal braaf met die ellie, maar ook maar bly jy het nie enige Simbas teegekom nie.
Die draad is naais.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 10:03:04 pm
:sip: Nogal braaf met die ellie, maar ook maar bly jy het nie enige Simbas teegekom nie.
Die draad is naais.

She said >:D
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on July 27, 2017, 10:34:54 pm
Kinda ironic the word DEAD is printed on your plakkie?!!! :eek7: :lol8: ;)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 10:52:43 pm
Herklaas...nie braaf met Ellie nie. Fraud I tell you I am.

Whilst settling my account at reception the afternoon I ask the lady if they regularly see the elephant that visited me this morning.

Me: "He has a small hole in his left ear"

She: "Ja hy is meeste dae hier, hy is soos ons huis kat."

Facepalm.

Me trying to hide my embarresment: "Het hy n naam?"

She: "Yes Jimbo, hy is nogal mense gewoond"

Double Facepalm.

Van Rooyen jou poephol.

Day 12: Where The Creator stores all the rocks left over after building the earth...and what hides among these rocks.

I get up early and make a coffee on my stove. Some muesli and then enjoy my last ciggie. Yesterday I contemplated buying ciggies at the bar as they had my brand but decided to rather get from the next shop when I buy food rations for today's leg. My ration of ciggies brought in from ZA has now run dry. You know when you are on a decent trip when you are one carton in :thumleft:

It is cold but need to get going as I have a strange suspicion that today is going to be a very long day.

The planned leg runs down from Palmwag on the C43 then turn right after Bergsig on the C39 to Torra Bay. Then a few kays on one turns south on a 2 spoor that goes through the desert and ends up joining the D2303 at Brandberg West Mine. My planned overnight would be the Rhino Trust Camp in the Ugab river.

Distance about 180km if I recall correctly. Now as most members around here know 180km is not far...but by now Kaokoland has taught me a few things and I tell you a 100km up here is bleddie far.

The reason for my suspicion is twofold:

1. I did not do any particular detailed research on this leg...as in how hard and what type of terrain
2. Dave...aka Mr Beserker. He generated the GPX file for me.

Now Mr Beserker by his own admission have a tendency to get carried away with daily distance when it comes to trip planning. A result I believe of not getting the chance to go on trips enough...hence the "all you can eat" approach when he does. And also if you know Mr Beserker his youthful enthusiasm anything dirtbike and adventure related is hard to contain and can lead to Google Earthing himself (or in this case me) into a Google Epic.

Luckily I have gone tripping with Dave enough to be aware of this enhanced appetite for mileage. I set of as soon as it is light enough.

I pass the Palmwnary checkpoint after topping up the tank. They spray my tires halfheartedly with some type of disinfectant. I give the guy a look...

" As jy n tip soek gaan jy my wiele skooner moet was as daai boet"

I start looking for a spaza shop for smokes and some provisions. Nothing viable at Palmwag.

I make my way to Bergsig. General shop with a drankwinkel attached. Closed.

Rondfok

Asking around I eventually get pointed to a roundish lady in a pink bathrobe standing chatting to her neighbour.

She: "No shops only opens at 10am."

Me: Huh?

She: "Dis die polisie, hulle hou ons dop"

Me: "Double Huh"

Turns out its that alcohol can only be sold from 10am and since the shop is attached to the drankwinkel it needs to keep the same hours.

It was 8am. I was not going to stick around. The road here was shitty and I got stuck behind a truck kicking up huge dustclouds in the still morning air for most of the way to Bergsig. At Bergsig the truck was picking up workers so I decided "Fok dit" and got ahead of it.

At the turnoff to Torra Bay some shacks on the side of the road. One of them has 'shop' spraypainted on its side.

Ask around...no sorry no food available or smokes.

Rondfok

Ah well I have some muesli, coffee and enough fuel and water. I press on.

A few kilometers on the GPS direct me to a nondescript turn-off. I take some foties and notice a Gemsbok scampering off...the baby Ten was standing idling in the cool morning air.

Accross the road I notice a small sign "Wereld Einde" (Worlds End).

Huh...Dave why do you turn me so close to Armageddon?!

As I finish my happy snappy a thought crosses my mind...did Oom Tiempie not say this area contains the largest population of free roaming Black Rhino
in the world? Or did I read it somewhere?

What is the chances man!? You have been spoilt beyond all expectation...stop being greedy!!

Into the desert I go.

Now before the trip 2TDan told me..."Kaokoland...ja jy gaan klippe ry. Klippe of sand...niks tussen in nie"

Well today for this leg was true so so true!

Km on km of rocky track...then sandy...then bigger rocks...then different type of sand...then different colour rocks. On and on it went.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 10:54:46 pm
ChrisL...jy mis niks nie! Ek het nie eens so opgelet nie...
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: katana on July 27, 2017, 11:07:29 pm
Dankie man.  My breaks tussen studeer spandeer ek hier.   :ricky:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 11:14:01 pm
Gemsbok, springbok...I pass many.

The track gets sandy again...but still with lots of loose rock inbetween. Its that gravelly grey sand again similar to my descent to the Hoanib. Tiring. My hands are bruising again.

As I descend down this dry spillway I reach a point where the river/spillway cut a vertical embankment through the sand. Yellow grass just less than knee height all around. No Simbas in sight ;) Not that one would see a lion in that yellow grass.

I notice movement on top of this vertical embankment. It is running away from me...

As I stop to take a better look I thought...surely a lion is more yellow than that.

Then the movement stop and the movement turns around

Movement: "Eks nie fokken geelvel nie jou drol"

Me: "Jammer, sallie weer nie"

Its a fucking hyena....!! 60-70m away from me in broad daylight.

Then as my  nerves settle a bit I noticed its two mates close by.

I thought to myself: "Why aren't these chappies running away? Surely the thunderous roar of my Leo Vince blaf pyp should scare them?"

Movements collectively: "Ons vir jou bang?! Nooit van gehoor nie ou Tjop"

Rev a bit. Braap Braaaap. They move back a few meters then stop.

I finger the hooter.

They just stare at me.

"Fok dit...hierdie brasse is honger. I'm outa here!"

Now truth be told I am more terrified of hyena than of lion. My reasoning is that hyena is a cowardly animal (like baboon) and hunt/gather in packs. They pic on the weak and/or dying. A lion will probably take you out so quickly it would be fairly painless...I reckon Mr Hyena and his mates will slowly tear pieces of you bit by bit like you are some buffet platter of sorts.

As I sped of I kept my eyes out for a fresh carcass and possible lions that may be keeping the hyenas from running of. I see nothing...

Ja Van Rooyen. Moenie al die kak wat jy op National Gegraphic kyk glo nie.

PS: Kyk mooi maar of van die kakkerige foties kan mens Mr Hyena en maaitjies sien

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 11:32:08 pm
About 50km into this desert leg the road got really rocky and all vegetation stopped.

It looked like all the building blocks of Creation that was left over was just scattered here...hectares and hectares of it.

The devils armpit was heating up as well. I was getting a little gatvol as I was being pommeled by the rocky track and could not look around as I could not risk running off the track into all the scattered building material.

Jy wil mos Van Rooyen.

Check GPS, look up check track, look down check RPM, quick glance up at landscape....rinse repeat, rinse repeat hundred times over.

As my gat was just about vol I noticed a bigger boulder in my left vield of view.

Rinse repeat....I check out the boulder

Rinse repeat....why is that bouldera light grey when all the building materials is black or reddish?

Rinse repeat...did that boulder change shape?

Rinse repeat...fuckit, I stopped with said boulder about 150m-200m directly to my left.

I stare.

Did that boulder just move?

I rev it a bit...Braap braaaap.

The boulder moves a bit.

I hoot a bit like a Mitchells Plain Taxi.

Desired effect....the boulder grows legs.

A few more hoots and the boulder turns broadside.

Shit a brick...bring maar weer daai pap snoek. A Black Rhino!

Of all the things I've seen on this trip this was the one I really regretted my lack of photographic equipment/ability.

Here I was...bum fuck nowhere tussen Hemel op Aarde and the devils left armpit and I am standing 200m away from one of the most endangered species on earth.

No permit paid...now fenceline crossed. I felt like I have won the environmental tourism lotto.



Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 27, 2017, 11:45:48 pm
Spirits lifted I proceed into the desert.

I trundle along replaying the rhino encounter...I still could not believe my luck.

The track snaked on changing texture, colour and feel. Terrain gets more mountainous and I stop for a lunch break of peanuts and an energy bar.

By now I was feeling a little beat up and battered. It was effing hot.

I scratch around in my handlebar bar...forgot about these. I soothe my mood with the Wilson toffees.

Although I appreciated them I was really craving a ciggie.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 28, 2017, 12:14:36 am
I push on...

As I come through some foothills I spot a green oasis with some cottages.

I consider taking a drive up but as my track pass south of the campsite looking spot I see it looks very deserted.

I spot one person at the one chalet type structure...a white man. No wave...mmm. must be some type of a larney lodge or private camp it thought.

Fuckit....the nicotine monster needs feeding.

No as all smokers know...a bike trip runs on a few essentials, cigarettes being numero uno on the list.

My personal circus runs on the following, in order of importance:

1. Cigarettes
2. Coffee
3. Fuel
4. Water

All of the above I had in surplus...except numero uno.

As some here that have been on bike trips with me will attest...one the ciggies runs out I tend to become a homing pigeon for the first available cigarette vendor.

And for those that know Brandberg area knows...Uis and/or White Lady was the closest candidates.

Arriving at the Ugab riverbed I reach my overnight stop, the Rhino Trust Camp.

Relieved I knock on the door at reception. I enter...not a sound. No one...

I exit and have a look around...the pace looks a bit desolate. No shade.

Visions of Mad Max Fury Road flash before me....the nicotine monster hard at work: "Feed me Seymour!"

I notice a rope across the road with a hut on the southern side of the camp where the road exits.

A man exits the hut and approaches me with a clipboard in his hand.

He appears a bit weather worn...his Rhino Camp shirt has seen better days.

I enquire if there is food or cooldrinks or ciggies available.

"Nee jammer meneer"

Now camping in the Ugab river sounded like a swell idea during the planning phase...but standing here on the Mad Max Namibia film set with the nicotine monster making itself heard at any opportunity I give it...I started having my reservations.

A quick decision followed. Bugger it...its only another 160km or so to White Lady along my planned track south of Brandberg.

I will skip Ugab camp and ride tomorrows leg this afternoon. Steak dinner and ciggies at White Lady tonight boyo...you have earned it!!

Baby Ten raised an eyebrow: "Jy my nie genoeg gemartel vandag nie?!"

I did not hear Baby Ten over the din of the nicotine monster...

I pressed on in earnest.

I noticed on my GPS that my track goes onto a 4 x 4 section that runs very close to the D2342.

Mmmm...D road close to Brandberg. Surely I would be able to cover distance quicker on this than the 4 x 4 trail?

I altered my route to interect the D2342 as soon as possible.

Did I mention it was hot?
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Offroadrider on July 28, 2017, 12:34:43 am
What a ride!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 28, 2017, 12:56:39 am
Reaching the D2342 I sigh with relief...time to get moovin!

About 5km on I take a few foties. Fuck me I thought as I secured my phone back into nav mode...this road is rally baddly corrugated.

Some kilometers on the going gets rocky as well...still really corrugated.

By now my hands are really hurting. Te veel keyboard streel Van Rooyen...sagtebaard. Jou bleddie pissie.

I try and get the speed up and nearly hit a riverbed at 110km/h. Sun is directly behind me again and I do not see the flood damage in time.

Some bouncing ensued and my arsehole was chewing hole in my seat from puckering. Close call...pay attention idiot!

A few km on and my phone bounce from the cradle attaching it above the odo. Luckily it gets caught by the usb charging cradle attached to it. Phew...close call!!! All my photos are on there as well as my navigation.

It was hot...so I did not linger. I remounted the phone and made sure it is secure.

On the next badly corrugated piece of road I am pushing on at about 80km/h and then disaster struck.

The phone dislodged itself once again from the cradle but this time the cable neglected its duty at the lifesaver station.

Fuck

Luckily I noticed the phone jumping out that cradle so I slammed on the brakes and came to a grinding halt. An angry U turn later I keep my eyes peeled for the phone as I backtrack.

There you are.

I pick up the phone. I noticed that it got undressed and was not wearing its protective cover.

I flipped the phone around...no back cover or battery.

I look around...ah, there is the battery.

A few meters later the back cover and eventually the protective cover.

I reassemble the phone.

A little irritated...worried that my photos are lost for ever.

The trusty little Samsung starts up.

Fuck'

Screen is fuct...only the upper third reacts to touch. Rest is dead.

I cannot get the screen unlock code in as a result...

Double fuck.

I strip my moer right there on the D2342.

Fok die donnerse pad.

I saddle up and decide to head straight for Uis.

As I progress towards the Elephant Rock Campsite I notice so movement from my screen. It was bumpy corrugated going.

I reach the camp and as I pass it looks like they have a little shop.

I turn around hoping to get a Coke and a smoke.

Jammer meneer.

Ag fok.

Then the chap takes out the last Tafel in their freezer. I am saved :) As I sit there drinking the ice cold nectar a car pulls up with some holiday makers. They enquire about the road.

They wish to go see the Brandberg West Mine.

"Nee oom, die D2342 is in sy moer in. jy gaan net jou Renault opfok"

I bum a smoke from his daughter.

I inspect the wobbly screen on my bike.

Ag fok tog.

The screen seems to be loose.

Upon further inspection I see that the headlight stay (frame) that keeps up the headlight, odo and screen assembly is cracked nearly all the way through.

Tripple fuck.

I finish my beer and cautiously proceed the last 25km to Uis.

Arriving in Uis it is so hot I do not even bother to check the bike again. I go straight for fuel and then into the Suparette and grab a tall Coke from the fridge.

The coke was done by the time I reach the fridge...the lady scans the empty can and I get some smokes. Not my brand but better than nothing.

Back at the bike I inspect the headlight stay under that calm that besets a smoker freshly reunited with cigarettes.

The bloody headstay is cracked clean off...nothing except the cables of the headlights, indicators and odo is securing the headlight assembly to the bike.

P03s

The baby Ten looks at me with a tear in her eye: "Jy wil mos nie na my geluister het nie, ons moes by Ugab gebly het!"

Fokkit

Fok

Geen meer fotos...bike in sy moer in...en eks nou lekker moerig in die hitte.

I stand there for a few moments to try and think of what I should do. I struggle to formulate any logical reasoning...I blame heat and fatigue.

I do what most men would and succumb to my vices. Coffee and cigrettes at the restuarant.

Once a bit I order a sandwich and pull out my paper map.

Time for a rethink...Plan B soos hulle se.

Only problem is I only brought Plan A...as in fucking A lekka bike trip.

In my warped reasoning bringing a Plan B would jeopardise the likely success of Plan A.

I sat there...

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Vis Arend on July 28, 2017, 09:08:39 am
Your lucky fish, hoe gelukkig kan jy nie wees om daai renoster te kon sien nie.   Ek ry daai omgewing al vir jare en het nog nooit een gesien nie, nog net hulle k@k en spore.    :patch: 

Jy kan jouself baie gelukkig ag.  Mooi man.   :thumleft: 
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: armpump on July 28, 2017, 10:18:20 am
Sure is one of the better r/reports i have read.

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Clockwork Orange on July 28, 2017, 11:14:41 am
Absolutely loving this report. Besides the amazing trip and route your writing has me constantly chukling :imaposer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 28, 2017, 12:28:46 pm
Trust me...I am fully aware of how lucky I was with the rhino. It was the highlight for me of the trip.

Must be because I have been courting Lady Luck for years...gently seducing her little by little to succumb to my wicked ways. Well that is my version anyway...the missus always talks of me making my guardian angels work overtime. Well I pay my taxes...hulle kan maar werk soos die res van ons.

For those that wish to see a Black Rhino...well you just missed another as I think I just birthed one. Last night's red thai curry I made was made with a bit too much vigour...tasted bleddie lekka though. Dont worry...just ate the leftover curry so I suspect the next Rhino delivery around 5pm :ricky:

Dear VIEWER

As you only look at pictures you probably missed the part where the phone/camera saw its po3s.
I repeat it for your benefit: DIE FOON IS IN SY PO3S!!! :'( :( :angryfire: :BangHead: :useless:

No more foties for rest of this report I am afraid.

Adios dear Viewer, was nice having you along.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 28, 2017, 12:35:38 pm
Dear READER

Thank you for polluting your mind with my incoherent ramblings and for baring with me thus far.

Good news dear reader. As the public announcement was made that there will be no more foties a bit of a culling has taken place on this thread. I reckon we lost 80%. :thumleft:

From here on only reading...lovely easy reading with no annoying picture interuptions...where your imagination can paint the pictures for you.

You can choose your own medium of paint...oil, water...up to you. For newbies at reading feel free to use crayons...it will be tolerated. :pot:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Warren Ellwood on July 28, 2017, 12:36:16 pm
I love the name of the report, and what an adventure.

Very nice, thank you for all the effort.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 28, 2017, 01:11:52 pm
Day 12: Boer maak n plan, n Porra maak 2 en die lafhart hardloopweg met sy stert tussen sy bene.

Well there I was...2 coffees in with the whole of Namibia sprawled infront of me on the paper map. Fuck Nam is a big place...it was covering the entire restuarant table!! I could not actually get myself to have a proper look. Man up Bimbo...I have a glance. Right where is Uis...I start looking at the southern part of Nam on the map. Geen Uis. Huh?

I look a bit further north...there you are. Then my heart sank when I realised exactly where I was in relation to the rest of Nam and civilisation. Fok my...middel van nerens.

I ordered another coffee...the gears in my mind still refusing to turn in any directlion remotely resembling a Plan B.

Lets go have a look again...perhaps its not that bad?

I walk over to Baby Ten who by now was skulking like an infant that was refused sweeties at a birthday party.

Me: "Kom nou, dis nie so erg nie"

Baby Ten: "Jou po3s man!"

I have a look again...yes as bad as before. Headlight frame stay is clean off.

Fok

I pull of one of the band-aids (tie strap) that was on my luggage bags. I affix the band-aid around the headlight fairing like a squeamish first year Med student dressing her first open fracture dressing at Tygerberg ER.

I give Baby Ten a little pat on the seat: "Daarsy, als beter"

Baby Ten does not even reply and carries on skulking.

I return for coffee #3. As the Caffeine Angel start her work of healing the gears in my head slowly start turning. Slowly.

Has my luck run out? Is dit nou genoeg?

I look over my planned route which involves Spitskoppe, Walvis, Sesriem, Aus and the C13 through Rosh-Pina and the Richtersveld park back to Vioolsdrif.

Now for any normal rider, myself included this alone would be a lekker trip filled with sightseeing, lekka roads, booze and good food.

Mmmm...I sat there. Seems a bit vanilla to me. Kaokoland has fed me her rich multilayered flavours for the past week. She wined and dined me with 5 star treatment and flavour that will make even that Pommy prick Ramsey stop swearing and shut up. My pallet has been altered...vanilla is not good enough anymore.

I look over my planned route again...No man. All that was staring back at me was McDonalds. And not even a Happy Meal :-\

The gears turned slowly..

And then in an instant...CLICK. Decision made.

I am going home. No point fucking up my bike or myself further on some vanilla flavoured jolly patrollie that I can come do over a long weekend.

We came, we saw...and we were conquered. Namibia (especially Kaokoland) has stolen my hart...I will be back.

I sat there...Plan B. B for bedonnered. Get back on tar asap...then down to Windhoek and then make a beeline for the border and N7 home. Done...sign me up.

Time to get out of Dodge.

Mmmm...how do I get out of Dodge? I look at the map again. Fuuuck me...its about 150km to Omaruru...then about 50km to Karibib. I enquired by the restuarant owner about road conditions to Karibib. "C36 is maar so so gravel...C33 suid na Karibib is nou geteer"

Plan B sorted. 150km gravel to Omaruru and then tar to Karibib. Then another 180km to Windhoek.

I just need to get somewhere safe before nightfall...and by safe I mean tar. It was about 3h30pm and it was hot.


Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 28, 2017, 01:58:58 pm
Day 12: Getting out of Dodge...and landing right back in it.

Saddle up..."Baby Ten I will be gentle...promise"

Baby Ten fires up like the Swiss Watch she is. When she heard Plan B she stopped her sulking and a look of steely determination beset her.

"I am your little pack mule...I will get you there"

Compared to the D2342 that was the cause of all this kak...the C36 felt like like a newly built Chinese highway.

I race the sunset...well I use the term race very loosely here. It was mostly 60-80km/h with the headlight assembly threatening to separate itself from this ill advised mission.

With about 50km to go to Omaruru the sun was getting quite low and I had to slow down at every bridge crossing an riverbed for fear of a koedoe or some critter making its appearance. I have by now accepted that my Gaurdian Angels have gone on strike...no point pushing my luck.

When my missus eventually agreed to this sole Nam mission I made her a promise. "Honey...if the trip starts pushing back I will back off" She knows how stubborn I can be.

As I am riding towards Omaruru I am content with my decision to go home. A promise is a promise after all. And it was not like I was bailing half fed...I have dined on Namibia's rarest and finest (people and places) almost to a point of indigestion.

I reach Omaruru and tar with about 30mins daylight to go. Quick roadside smoke and then I gun it for Karibib.

Visions of a soft bed, warms shower and a warm meal that someone else prepared started filling my mind. Now those that know me know I am as tight as a nun's c8nt when it comes to money...at this stage however I could not care. I was going to book into a hotel dammit!!!

I arrived in Karibib just as the sun sets. Mmmm...weird. Not the hamlet I was hoping for. More like a fuelstation catering mainly for trucking. Omaruru definately had more charm. I was out of daylight and with the headlight strapped up I did not have lights. So this is where you will get to today Van Rooyen...beggers can't be choosers.

I look around and spot Tommy's Lodge right next to the Engen. Mmmm....convenient :thumleft:

I ring the bell at reception. 5 mins later some dude comes and unlocks the gate. They are fairly full but I secure Room 6 in the backpackers section. I pay for the room and take my bike around to park it behind a locked gate. Yes in all of Namibia this was the only town I felt the need for a locked gate.

Now I did not inspect the room yet...the lady brings the key and shows me around. What a fucking dive!!! No really...it was bad. It was probably quite charming 30 years ago but it was delapitated and filled mostly with truckers, construction crew etc. Rough around the edges...the establishment and the patrons (me included :)). I did not care...I was tired and hungry...the epic that was today started to settle in and my energy levels drop.

I enquire about dinner...Yes Yes they have a restuarant. I was sceptical but go and check out the menu.

The staff was very friendly. We joked around and then they fetched the chef.

Out walks Gordon Ramsey...he better fucking be. I was starving.

Mr Chef speaks very little English...we somehow settle on a Rump Steak with Baked potato...mostly cause it was the only thing he seemed keen on making.

Rewind back to dinner with Swiss Thomas and his guide Owen at Opopu Falls Lodge. Owen orders steak. Waiter asks him how he wants it done..."African" he replies. Thomas and I raise our eyebrows. Huh? Owen looks at us with that look guides spare specifically for idiot tourists: "Well done" the explanation.

Fast Foward back to the Chef at Karibib. I explain to Mr Chef that if he brings me the steak "African" that I will klap him with it. We laugh and then a complicated discussion ensues where I try and confirm that he understood my instruction of Bleu/Rare. He was  insisted Medium Rare is more rare...lots of laughs were had.

Dinner is set for 7h30pm and I go and take a shower so long...well it was more like a dribble. The fascilities was in dire need of refurbishment.

Then dinner. The much debated steak arrives...with what looked like hash browns. The baked potato must have lost the fight as it was nowhere in sight. No worries I luv hashbrowns.

Rump steak my arse...more like some tarentaal or dassie they scraped of the road late afternoon!!

But I was hungry and Mr Chef understood one thing and one thing well...Bleu is Bleu. The steak moooed once before I devoured it.

Then some men in overalls arrived and started a braai...their accents was Cape (coloured) so I struck up conversation. Ja hulle is vannie Kaap. Werk op die myn besig met swaarstroom bedrading. Karibib has a mine?! Ja boet...Karibib het n myn!

Some stogies later and off to bed...no not bed...

At my lofty 6'4" I could simply not fit in the bunkbeds. Matras oppie vloer...I drift off. Tomorrow is going to be a looooong day.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Maganything on July 28, 2017, 02:44:52 pm
such a great report. Well done, sounds like an epic trip so far!!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on July 28, 2017, 04:34:46 pm
 :thumleft: who needs pics when you can write like that!!!!!! if you wrote a book I'll buy them , awsome ,awsome ...awsome , cant wait for the next episode
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Rickus on July 28, 2017, 05:04:24 pm
Baie lekker RR.....ek lees hom aandagtig, want ek ry presies dieselfde roete oor n maand.....ons ry net van Hentiesbaai af....kan ek jou PM oor die petrol en slaap plek situasie asb ?
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Crossed-up on July 28, 2017, 07:18:13 pm
Again I say you write lekker. Loving it!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Oubones on July 28, 2017, 07:49:42 pm
:thumleft: who needs pics when you can write like that!!!!!! if you wrote a book I'll buy them , awsome ,awsome ...awsome , cant wait for the next episode
This is really a make you get and go RR! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: NoRush on July 28, 2017, 08:54:01 pm
 Stroke Her, lekker RR. Nam is definitely on my long term bucket list. Maybe i get to do it after kids leave the house BUT it will be done.
You have a lekker way of writing.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: 2StrokeDan on July 28, 2017, 10:34:08 pm
Your instrument cradle has been welded, and it's waiting with coffee.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Oubones on July 29, 2017, 07:43:40 am
Stroke Her, lekker RR. Nam is definitely on my long term bucket list. Maybe i get to do it after kids leave the house BUT it will be done.
You have a lekker way of writing.  :thumleft:
When are your kids leaving school? :pot:
I want to go, but do not know when I will ever get enough time off!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 29, 2017, 04:19:42 pm
Rickus...PM away :thumleft:

2TDan...baie dankie vir die regmaak van die headlightstay :thumleft:...die koffie was ook lekker en die geselskap OK :pot:

Thank you to all the rest for the compliments and I am glad you are enjoying it.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 29, 2017, 05:31:21 pm
Day 13: The long road of attrition home

Now as most of the  Dogs here would attest...every trip has a certain point where something goes wrong. Normally at this point your mates help you, encourage you or the credit card mends it like some digital super glue and you carry on with your adventure like all is OK.

And then there is the other type of trip where this point...which in hindsight seems like a critical point...some sort of Karma U-Turn takes place. The first wrong gets mended but emotions gets heated or panic sets in. What normally follows is what seems like a general unravelling at the seems. The next thing goes wrong and then the next and then the next and before you know it your little adventure ride has gone from Jolly Patrollie into full blown Epic.

As I was alone I must have become more in tune with either Karma, the universe or maybe my female side...Dunno. All I knew is that I have reached this critical point. Pay attention Van Rooyen...Hou dinge bymekaar. I had this uneasy feeling that I I didn't bring  my A game that today may turn into an Epic.

So with this in the back of my mind I wake up at 4h30am.

Not because of an alarm clock (phone is stukkend onthou)...no, because of the roosters in Karibib. Ek sweer die donnerse goed is gerook!! The first one goes with his cookle doodle doo and I thought great, I will snooze a bit. 45 mins later and about 12 different roosters later each trying to outdo the prevous' attempt at Pavarotti I strip my moer and get up.

 I get the bike packed. As my lights were not functional I had to wait for dawn to break. I sat there impatiently smoking...contemplating on the 1000km that lies ahead to the border...which I was planning to do in some sort of an Iron Butt attempt.

I say Iron Butt...more like a Metric Butt or Iron Butt light. Iron Butt is 1000 Miles Van Rooyen...not a measly 1000km...jou pissie.

What concerned me was my tyres. The Dunlop 606 has been great on the deseert and riverbed terrain and was still very good wear wise...but these have a tendency to chuck knobs when flogged for any extended period over 120km/h. Especially when loaded.

And as we all know from endless family gatherings, christmass work functions and weddings...its all fun and games till some knob ruins the party.

I set off as the dawn breaks...well so I thought. The morning star still had a few other starry neighbours so I reckon I was about 30mins early.

Well an ice cold half blind first 30mins was ridden with extreme caution. Jou stupid twatwaffle...stop tempting fate. Just get home in one piece you idiot.

As the day blossomed I could start looking around a bit. Landscape was top class. Lots of doves around...weird. Still ice cold....my manhood retreated to about 2 inches above my left kidney. I reckon it scored about 2 Deg Celcius...not much more.

Okahandja comes and goes...then Windhoek. Nee fok nou moet ek eers n plan maak. I stop at the first garage in sight. Helmet off tank bag off.

Assistant: "Meneer met kaart betaal?"

Me: "Ja dankie"

Assistant: "Nee meneer cash only"

Me: "Wat de donner?"

I am in Windhoek FFS...surely I can pay by card?! I head to the office to enquire but got assured the assistant was correct. Cash only as they are having issues with their ccard machines. So not only in SA it though.

Bogger die...I need to save my cash for the campsite tonight.

I head to the same garage I filled at before on the way up. Fill up bike and the Desert Fox for just in case.

My thoughts on this seemingly overpriced papsak I bought from Flying Brick (Ek dink die eienaar be-oog om vroeg af te tree :pot:)

R680 buys you a papsak (literally) covered in some very boutique like khaki cordura fabrick for that authentic overland look. With a capacity of only 5 liters I cringed as I swiped the credit card...al die geld om 5 liter te dra. Jy is fokken gek Van Rooyen. Well once again how wrong I was. The bleddie thing is authentic. I normally filled 6.6 liters (reckon 7 will fit no issues), it didnt leak or smell or tear or anything. It just did its job again and again. Never mind the heat or terrain. In hindsight R680 was cheap. Highly recommended :thumleft:

After the bike and papsak fill I made a bee-line for the convenience store for coffee. What followed was a complicated process:

Me standing in front of coffee machine:"Ekskuus waar is die koppies"

Assistant: "Nee meneer moet eers voor gaan betaal"

Me: "Kan ek dan n koppie kry?"

Assistant with that air of addressing an idiot: "Ja meneer"

Wat n rondfokkery...10mins in a queue for an N$8 cup of Joe and I have another 800km to go man!!! FFS!!

As my manhood was still safely hiding above my left kidney I stood in that queue...nee fok dis te koud om sonder koffie aan te gaan!

Coffee and a smoke later and we are off!

Even sitting at 100-110km/h (saving tires) in the piss cold I thought to myself that this is really not so bad. The sun is out and its not too windy...bike running great, headlight strap job holding up and amazing landscape :thumleft:. Hou net aan beweeg poephol en ons sal dit maak :thumleft:

Marienthal. Fuel Steri Stumpie and a smoke. Warm enough now to take off the winter gloves. Thermals, down waistcoat, fleece top and jacket liner stays though...gaan nie kanse vat nie tjom.

Keetmanshoop. Fuel a Coke and a smoke and unfortunately the town has not blossomed into a pleasant little hamlet since my last visit 2 weeks ago...

B1 to Grunau...now this part was actually quite pleasant as I did not cover this on the way up.

Landscape was very beautifull with rock outcrops rising from flat sandy surrounds...almost like sections of the Northern Cape right on the border. I wish to return and explore here.

Then Grootplaas...it is getting late and the sun casts a very long shadow of me on my bike to my left. Shit this is going to be close.

Then on my right I spot what i thought was a large watermass in the distance. Huh? A lake in the middle of this desert country?

Post trip Google dissection later...it was Blinkpan. Definately had water on it.

I arrive at the Engen/Wimpy with about 30mins of daylight to go. I fill up again.

As I was having a smoke outside after I ordered my Wimpy burger and milkshake...some 4 x 4's pull in.

Nog n pap snoek asseblief.

Its the group from Purros that gave me all that petrol :thumleft:. For a second I thought to repay the kindness by paying for their petrol...luckily sanity prevailed. 3 vehicles at +- 80l each...erm...thats above my paygrade.

I thank them once again and enquire as to how their trip down the Purros Canyon went. They got about 10 Ellies later the same morning in the area I had the ellie roadblock. I wish them farewell and go dig in on that burger. Burger was ok but the milkshake was awesome...basically Ice Cream in a glass. The straw was useless...I had to eat it with a spoon :thumleft:

As I sat there all mucho in my ATGAT, spooning my Vanilla Milkshake like us hardened men of Adv Riding do I spotted one of the 4x4 group ws popping in by the Engen convenience store. I go say thank you again for the fuel. We start chatting and Neil enquires as to what I do.

Me: "Marine Electronics"

Neil: "Waar?"

Me: "Paarden Eiland"

Neil: "Werk jy saam met n Bernie"

Me: "Ja, Bernie Belcher. Ek het meeste wat ek weet by hom geleer"

Neil: "Wel Bernie is my vrou se oom"

Fok my...what a small world!!

After the last farewells I head into the dusk to the Amanzi Trials River Camp. It was 10km or so but I had to take it slow due to my headlight situation. The last bits of sun played on the cliffs and painted them a reddish hue. Was I on mars again? Last few kilometer to the river was very cool as a gloomy fog started forming over the river and close surrounds. A bit eerie but very cool.

I arrived at Amanzi and they were very very full. 4x4 everywhere and I got the sensation that many a kak storie would be had over camp fires that night comparing the merits of suspension upgrades, winch wattage, diesel vs petrol and generally who has got the biggest cock. Ag shame man...I did not see any of you lot on Van Zyls...go back to Sandton...your spray on mud needs a touch-up!

I get my old Capsite #12. Tent goes up as it is already chilly.

A coffee and a few smokes later I go for a hot shower making sure to not ingest any river water...nie lus vir n gekotsery op my laaste nag nie!

An oom saunters over...wragtag, I met him at the Kunene Lodge campsite. He tells me that they were thinking of me and were a bit worried about my solo route and that they were glad to see I am safe. We exchange some tales and I bid him a good night and safe travels back.

Another smoke and I am off to bed.

I lie there in my tent listening to some music and make some notes in my little note book I took along for this trip. I re-read some of it. I reflect...

Jou lucky bliksem!! I thought as I drifted off to sleep for what turned out to be the effing coldest night I have spent in a tent in a very very long time!


Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: katana on July 29, 2017, 05:39:07 pm
Ek hoop jy ry stadiger terug Kaap toe.  Of gooi sommer jou eerste week terug by die werk ook in.  Besonderse lekker RR.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 29, 2017, 06:48:20 pm
Katana...ek dink jy sal my eerste week tuis en die eerste week terug by die werk ook geniet. Maar...en dis n groot MAAR, ek was vandag by my ouers om die foties te wys ensovoorts. Ek kon nie al die staaltjies onthou nie en wys toe my pa (wat in sy 70tigs eers die internet ontdek en nou is hy addicted >:D) die ride report en bookmark dit vir hom op sy foon. Nou my ouers is redelik konservatief (onthou die NG Kerk staaltjie?) so ek moes by voorbaat omverskoning vra oor die taalgebruik hier!

En by my werk gaan dit rofweg so:

"This is the marine industry....its not a spade...its a fucking shovel!"

Ek dink nie my ouers sal my eerste week terug by die werk oorleef nie!!

Net stadig gery tot by Malmusbury...daarna kon die tyres maar kak. >:D
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Bokveld on July 29, 2017, 07:47:17 pm
   Jammer jy moes jou trip kortknip.Gelukkig kan jy hom volgende keer klaarmaak as jy hom daar by die Spitskoppe gaan haal.Ek het dit baie geniet en sien uit na jou volgende avontuur.Daar is nie baie soldate met jou soort knaters nie!!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 29, 2017, 07:52:28 pm
Day 14: Die Vet dame het gesing

They say its not over until the fat lady has sung...wel vandag rek sy haar bek sommer voor die son opkom. Dis po3s koud in die tent.

Liewe magtag...ek le omtrent n uur en worstel met n oggend glory wat aandui dat ek moet gaan pee. Its too bloody cold!!!

Eventually I realize my neighbour may become suspicious of all the tossing and turning emmitting from my tent...

I take aforementioned morning glory for a walk to the ablutions...ah much better.

Attempted a pre-dawn ciggy and some stargazing but gave up halfway and retreated to the luke warm embrace of my sleeping bag.

A note on sleeping arrangements:

I normally sleep on a 3/4 Thermarest (thinnest lightest one) with my old Cape Storm down mummy sleeping bag rated to -5Deg apparently.

-5Deg my gat.

As I have never done Nam in winter I erred on the side of cauting and went looking for thermal sleeping bag liners. The very helpfull gentleman (shyster) at Cape Union Fart assured me that this thin travel liner will add 15Deg and he easily swindled the R680 from my wallet like taking candy from a baby. twatwaffle.

15Deg extra my gat. More like 2...maybe :dousing:

The luke warm embrace eventually turns to a reasonable level of affection and I afford myself a bit of a lie in.

Eventually I convince myself to get going and I get out into the cold still morning air next to the Orange River.

I fire up the trusty MSR I bought for R460 when I was 16 years old for my morning cuppa. I still recall my dad telling me "Jy is mal" when he heard the price...well dad, 22 years on and many adventures later that stove is still going!

Firing up this multifuel (I use petrol) stove involves pumping up the fuel bottle to generate enough pressure for the stove to work. As I am about to light the petrol puddle in the pre-heat pan I feel a slight brush against my hand. Huh?? Luckily I stop and inspect further...the O-Ring (Also 22 years old) of the fuel pump is emitting a fine mist spray of petrol. Luvverly..."Van Rooyen jy moet ophou ingat wees, koop n service kit dammit!" I berate myself and give the pump a quarter turn until the mist stops. A man needs his coffee in the morning...this man especially! Stove fires up without an explosion :thumleft:

Coffee, ciggie and then go dump the fruit juice (2 x 3 liter) that I was carrying up to now for emergency water supply. No need anymore and my luggage bags does not need any more torture.

I put on every bit of clothing I have that will fit under the ATGAT. It was cold...like the stare your ex wife/girlfriend gives you when she sees you happy and in love with your new younger, prettier and bustier new stukkie >:D

I head for the border and withing 40 mins I am through both sides. Quick ciggie halfway up the pass I soak in the barren landscape. I reflect on Namibia and more specifically Kaokoland. How does one convey to another who has never been there what the place is like? The closest I can come up with is that the Karoo and the Northern Cape had a lovechild and raised it exclusively on Redbull and Viagra!!! Yes it is that good...

Did I mention it was cold? My manhood has decided 2 inches above my left kidney is still too frigid and has pulled a Houdini on me. At my first pee stop I must have spent 5 mins convincing him/it to make an appearance!

Now you would think that by now I was regretting heading home? Far from it...all I could think was "Fuck we live in a beautful country!"

A few roadside smoke stops and fuel at Klawer eventually brings us to Piketberg. The same coffee machine gets homed in on again. As I am fiddling with the coffee machine (only realizing that I only have N$ change in my wallet) a tight little blonde number walks in.

Now without being too egotistical...I can pull off Tall Dark and Handsome every now and again so are used to the odd look in my direction.

She gives me a look.

I though: "There you go, you still have it handsome"

I look back...

The Penny Drops

She wasn't having a perv...she was giving be that look of disdain the privileged give beggars.

"Really Blondie, jou po3s ook!"

Eventually coffee is acquired and I go stand by the bike for a smoke. I reapply sunblock and in my mirror I see the reason for her disdain...fokkit Van Rooyen...jy lyk so bietjie grof boet. 2 weeks of sun, dust, cold, heat and no shaving did not result in that rugged Clint Eastwood look I was going for :o

By now I was on the loosing side of daylight and the Dunlops have started cracking at the base of the knobs already. I was dreading tyre issues/puncture so kept it steady at 100/110km/h. Now for those that have done Noordoewer to CT...imagine doing it on a thumper at 100/110km/h...teen nou het my gat so bietjie gestamp.

When I go through Malmusbury the sun is getting very low...70km to go.

Fuckit. I need to get home.

I throttle up that Yammerhammer like it was a 990. Fuel consumption and tires se moer...ek wil by die huis kom!

After an exhilarating dash I get to the Durbanville turn-off.

I pass a 4x4..its Neil and Meneer "ek het 160 liter" from Purros!!! I hoot as I pull alongside and give them the thumbsup...the kids in the back really appreciated it (in moments like these I really wished I could wheelie!!).

It feels like full circle running into them again and I reflect on the blessings I had on this journey. You lucky sod!!

Arrive home just before dark only to find that the missus have also just arrived home.

You know you have been on a decent bike trip when your own dog barks at you when you open the front door 8) "Igor jou poephol...dis ek!"

Quickly go walk Igor with the missus and then delivery pizza for dinner. Colcacchios nogal...lekker windgat.

I am happy to be home.

The weekend pass with me desperately trying every trick in the book to try and extract the pictures from the broken phone. I was really stressing about it.

On Monday Ettiene and I go for a cycle and he suggests I take the phone to his Chinaman connection at Cape Gate. "Nee boet, maatskappy foon. Laat ek hom maar eerder vir my IT ou gee"

Ettienne insists and we head for Chinaman after the cycle.

Chinaman: "Yes we have part. R1200 I fix for you"

Me: "When can I pic it up"

Chinaman: "1 hour"

Me: "Fook me...really?"

Lekka Pannarottis lunch later and phone is fixed, the stars align and the photos are all there. Thanks Ettienne and your Chinaman :thumleft:

And as they say in Looney Tunes: "Thats all Folks!"



Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 29, 2017, 07:54:25 pm
Bokveld...net n plesier en is by jy het dit geniet.

Soos voorheen genoem my knaters is maar middlematig (independantly verified >:D) met tydelike verhardings vermoee :)

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: katana on July 29, 2017, 08:03:32 pm
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: windswept on July 29, 2017, 08:59:37 pm
Nice one. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Herklaas on July 29, 2017, 09:59:42 pm
 :sip: Flippen hel, dit was naais, eks half jammer jys by die huis.
Wys nou pics van die lig skade ens.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on July 30, 2017, 08:37:08 am
I'm also sad you home , wish you were gone for at least another week [ glad you safe ] but that was an epic read. Thanx so much for sharing :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Leo on July 30, 2017, 09:11:52 am
Thanks for a very entertaining ride report Stroke Her.  Brought back some fond memories of our trip a year ago.

You should become an author man, you have talent.  :deal:

Himba girl with tits straight from the Heffner mansion (nearly dropped the bike when I did a lookback for a second viewing >:D)  :imaposer: :imaposer: :useless:

Must admit, some of them have some beautiful knockers  ;)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Catchy on July 30, 2017, 10:31:34 am
Great report Stroke Her :thumleft:  Thanks for sharing with us. Defiantly on the bucket list.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on July 30, 2017, 12:06:12 pm
Met jou skryf vermoŽns laat jy selfs die dag trip op die B1 vanaf Karibib na Noordoewer na n adventure klink. :thumleft:

My enigste ooit mal terug huistoe trip was ry uit Walvisbaai uit 5:15 pm via grondpad suid en stop om 5:30 pm die volgende middag in Stilbaai. Nie aan te bevele in Augustus. My Dakar was spils vir my vir n week. :eek7: :lol8:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Offroadrider on July 30, 2017, 11:42:08 pm
Stuff Marine electronics, go into writing novels,, brilliant report!!!!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Draad on July 31, 2017, 06:43:24 am

I must say Ireally enjoyed the reading .... well done awesome trip

nou wil ek net bike pak  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: briv on July 31, 2017, 10:31:26 am
Thanks dit was moerse lekker om saam te ry, en ons 2007 se Kaoko trip weer te beleef deur jou lekker loslip vertel vermoee  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Hotwire on July 31, 2017, 10:55:42 am
Great man!!! Was nou n lekker report die man!!! Lees sommer weer van voor af...

Sent from my HUAWEI GRA-L09 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on July 31, 2017, 11:06:20 am
Dude when is your next trip? come on leave tomorrow ! that was one of the best reports I've read ............ :lamer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: JMOL on July 31, 2017, 01:31:14 pm
Baie dankie vir die lekker lees.  Dis nou wragtig 'n RR wat jy alles lees en alle kiekies kyk.

Kan nie wag vir jou volgende trip nie  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Single Cylinder on July 31, 2017, 02:45:32 pm
Baie lekker thnks   :ricky:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: MiniDan on July 31, 2017, 03:09:09 pm
Andre, jou legend!

Baie mooi gedoen, dit was moer lekker om te lees en baie bly jy het dit op jou eie gedoen...

Respect     :thumleft:  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 31, 2017, 04:59:36 pm
Dankie MiniDan...eks nie legend nie...net Will Smith en jou pa is regtig "Legend"  >:D

Aan die res baie dankie vir die goeie wense en waardering...laat die 3 dae se verlof wat in die skryf ingegaan het darem minder brand.

Weet nou nie van boek skryf nie manne...met my 2 vinger hoeder pik tikkery sal ek athritis kry teen hoofstuk 3!

Vandag was ek eerste keer weer by die werk...Dag 1; Wat maak ek hier?!!!

Nuwe werksfoon, kannie passwords onthou vir helfde van die kak nie, rekening van doktor 5 maande na die behandeling ens ens ens...my moer is al weer gestrip :dousing:

Ek be-oog om n kaart of 2 met bietjie statistiek en probably nog n paar useless observations hier te gooi as mense belangstel.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on July 31, 2017, 05:16:20 pm
Dude you make me giggle, hope you fined your pass words ..... :imaposer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Rickus on July 31, 2017, 07:24:41 pm
Dankie MiniDan...eks nie legend nie...net Will Smith en jou pa is regtig "Legend"  >:D

Aan die res baie dankie vir die goeie wense en waardering...laat die 3 dae se verlof wat in die skryf ingegaan het darem minder brand.

Weet nou nie van boek skryf nie manne...met my 2 vinger hoeder pik tikkery sal ek athritis kry teen hoofstuk 3!

Vandag was ek eerste keer weer by die werk...Dag 1; Wat maak ek hier?!!!

Nuwe werksfoon, kannie passwords onthou vir helfde van die kak nie, rekening van doktor 5 maande na die behandeling ens ens ens...my moer is al weer gestrip :dousing:

Ek be-oog om n kaart of 2 met bietjie statistiek en probably nog n paar useless observations hier te gooi as mense belangstel.

Dit sal hoogs waardeer word  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: plonker on July 31, 2017, 08:48:31 pm
No dude no matter what you say there is an author in you waiting to "come out" the closet.  :imaposer:
Brilliant !!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: plonker on July 31, 2017, 08:50:24 pm
Maybe you can make your living writing travel stories.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 31, 2017, 09:09:41 pm
Right...here goes us with some mappy thingies.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 31, 2017, 09:36:22 pm
I have gpx files for the navigation but I will only share by PM.

Reason: Although my trip sounds like a barrel of laughs and roll-out of good fortune, Karma etc... Truth of the matter is the route goes through some pretty remote areas. Not crossing the Sahara remote...but remote enough that things can get out of hand in a bad way if you are not paying attention or are not quite prepared for what you are getting yourself into. I did my research, I was prepared and by the time I had the gpx files created (most myself and only that which required Tracks4Africa from Beserker) I pretty much could recite the route from memory.

If you are planning on going without someone that has been before I cautiously heed you to do the same.

Some may wonder about the technicality of the riding...

Let me put it this way, as was told to me when I asked the same thing. Rocks and sand, and nothing in between. And this was pretty much accurate. Also keep in mind the season you are going in (heat) as well as overlap with National Holidays in RSA (my maatjies in hulle 4x4 het die paaie ordentlik moer toe gery). Another consideration is what the weather was like 6 months before...I could clearly see evidence of flooding and water presence in the area was abnormally high, veld also very green for mid-winter.

If you want to see if you are ready then take the bike you plan on using with approx the same luggage and go do Namaqua Eco 4x4 and Weskus sand (Groenriver/Spoegriver)...if by then you are still keen on sand and rocks then you will be just fine grasshoppa :thumleft:

Choice of bike:

Now like most here I lust after Rally bikes...KTM 690 Rally Replica :drif:...problem is:

My blood runs Orange but my budget runs red :(

Any mid sized single cylinder with about 600km range will be fine...lighter the better. You do not need Rally level suspension...the Giraffes will still win. You are touring...not racing.

But then again...what is the best bike? In my humble budget strained opinion in order of presence:

1. A bike that is paid for
2. A bike you have the keys for
3. A bike you don't mind leaving behind

Common denominator in above..."A bike"

Enige donnerse fiets...gaan net!!!

If your bike is heavy...take some mates along to help lift/push etc.
If your bike is softly sprung...just go slower.
If your bike is underpowered...ideal. You will go slow and appreciate the scenery. My Baby Ten apparently makes 48hp...not once did I use even half of it.
If your bike is still owned by Wesbank (or any other bank)...ask them nicely if you can take their bike on holiday ::)

Let me put it like this...by Day 7 I was not even aware anymore I was on a bike trip. I was merely on a trip...the motorcycle has simply become the method of transport.

Areas like Kaokoland will not forever be accessible by motorcycle...so go before it is to late. The Himba girls really do not care if you are on the latest and greatest uber adventure machine!!

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on July 31, 2017, 10:23:23 pm
Accommodation and other ramblings:

I went in peak school holidays. I did not book anything beforehand...merely scouted potential digs and then sorted it out when I arrived. Not once did I luck out. This approach is fine when alone or only 2 or so in the group...larger parties may wish to book ahead of the time in peak season.
Accomodation:
Night 1
Amanzi River Trails on Orange River. Around N$160 per night, wood, bar, clean and green. Basic snacks but not a restuarant.
Night 2
Riverside Chalets Marienthal. Friendly owner run place. Clean with good ablutions and hot showers. No lawns and not on a river as such but dirt cheap N$70 Right in town so food etc is close.
Night 3
Oppi-Fokken-Koppi Kamanjab. Free for overlanders with everything you could possibly want including free Wi-Fi. I would make this my base if I trailer up...not that I condone trailering :pot:
Night 4
Kunene River Lodge
Luvverly around N$200 with bar, restuarant and free (not so great) Wi-Fi...right on the riverbank!! Ideal for an illegal border hop into Angola as they have boats as well >:D
Night 5 Opupu Falls Lodge
Koos used to own Camp Syncro but now has this lekka joint. As you drink your Tafel on the deck by the bar the noise of the Falls is quite loud :thumleft:. Restuarant, pool, Wi-Fi, Bar...nice spot for a rest day. About N$150 if I recall?
Night 6
Camp Syncro at the top of the Marienfluss. N$150 ish.. Good fascilities and ice cold beer and cold drinks. No food...bring your own. Hot showers and unlimited water straight from Kunene River. Another ideal spot to hop into Angola unseen...just mind the crocs.
Night 7
Marble Camp N$100
Basic with water but no hot water, food, drinks etc.
Night 8
Omenje Camp Purros.
Basic. Hot water and very clean. Possibilities of ellies in Camp at night as you are right on the bank of the river with no fences. Had signs for Petrol but was out of stock. N$100 or 150. Bargain. No food but booze and basic canned food available at Shebeen Manchester United in the village a couple of kays away.
Night 9
Ongongo Warmquelle Community Campsite N$150
Clean with hot water and the "warm water" pool right in the campsite. No food at campsite but spaza shops in Warmquelle.
Night 10 & 11
Palmwag N$ 225 I think per night. Touristy with everything that goes with it. Good spot to take in some calories. No Wi-Fi. Food ok and beer is cheaper than Coke.
Night 12
Tommy's Lodge Karibib...for that authentic trucker experience. N$100 ish. Place is falling apart but you will live...cheap...and chearfull perhaps 20 years ago. Staff was friendly with a sense of humour. Authentic tarentaal rump steaks :thumleft: :laughing4:
Night 13
Amanzi again for the win :thumleft:


Distances:
On a normal weekend jol to the Karoo I have no issue with 500-800km days...dis mos lekker grondpad ry :thumleft:. Kaokoland....forget about it. Plan for less distance as terrain is slow going when loaded. 100-200km for a day is plenty. Do even less if you have the time...more time for pics etc.

Tyres:
50/50 will do but a 90/10 (Mitch Desert, Dunlop D606 etc) would make your life easier. In my opinion tyre carcass is as important as tread pattern. The sturdier the carcass the less issues you will have with pinch flats, cuts and thorns. The D606 provided plenty traction and drive in the sand so I did not have to constantly scream the engine ...that would just wast fuel and you are already stressed about fuel.

Fuel:
Only mayor "fuel" leg is Okangwati to Sesfontien. 550km from relatively reliable fuel depot to first fuel pumps. I had 35.6 liters and a theoretical 600-650km range.
Ruacana Puma Fuel station is last petrol pumps...next is at Sesfontein. N$10.90 p/l at pumps.
I found fuel as well at:
1. Opuwu Falls Village. Owen is the man :thumleft: N$20 p/l
2. Okangwati N$18p/l
3. Marienfluss Spaza Shop north of Orupembe Shop 1 and then some shacks 10-15km from Marble Camp
4. Purros (They were out but normally have)

Fill up everything at Ruacana and then top up at above depots (fuel from plastic bottles) only when needed and save yourself some dineros.
I carry a Mr Funnel to filter any fuel obtained from a depot or jerry can...your fuel filter will thank you.

Water:
Carry purification tablets as many of the campsites use river water
There are 4 permanent waterpoints in the Marienfluss (Solar with pumps pumping groundwater to plastic tanks) put up by NGO's to assist local people.
Fill up whenever you can...carry at least 6 liters as emergency stash. Yes its heavy but if you get stuck you are either in for a bleddie long wait...or bleddie long walk. Palwag down to Brandberg West is proper desert....soos in dis fokken droog boet...if you get stuck there without water you are dead. Klaar. So take water. 6 liters is a start...8 is better




Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on July 31, 2017, 11:14:51 pm
Wow, that was quite a trip, you got a "all in one" that's for sure!

This has my vote for RR of the year. Thanks for sharing.

 8)

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on August 01, 2017, 07:38:55 am
Wow, that was quite a trip, you got a "all in one" that's for sure!

This has my vote for RR of the year. Thanks for sharing.

 8)
Mine to  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Rickus on August 01, 2017, 11:41:51 am
Would you say the river road between Ruacana and Swartbooisdrift is worthwhile ?....I was thinking of skipping that part and shooting straight up past Opuwu into Swartbooisdrift onto Epupa....?
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 01, 2017, 12:13:04 pm
From a technical challenge point of view then no... not worthwhile. From a scenic touring point of view... yes worth it.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: CUZZY on August 01, 2017, 02:53:06 pm
The bombdotcom RR!  Well done on an amazing experience!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Mother on August 01, 2017, 04:31:05 pm
starting off with flu and a puncture......sounds wonderful look fwd to reading the rest......
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: RrP on August 01, 2017, 04:59:23 pm
What a ride and great writing skills thank you . Now please go and ride some more looking forward to your next trip.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Woestersous on August 02, 2017, 12:08:41 am
Fokkit van Rooyen, my voete het gevrek op die troon, klaar gelees op die deksel, LZ en die boksers snork laaaankal :peepwall:
My 04:30 run is ook uit!!! Great RR, jy skryf nogals nie te kak nie :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 02, 2017, 07:49:50 am
Fokkit Woestersous...toe ek jou die Wassap stuur en se "Lees hier...dis lekker kakhuis lessstof" het ek nie gemeen jy moet dit in een "sitting" lees nie :laughing4:

Jou poephol :biggrin:

Bly jy het dit geniet. Groete vir LZ en die boys.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: africanSky on August 02, 2017, 12:22:38 pm
Awesome RR, thanks for taking the time to share :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Sam on August 02, 2017, 04:27:54 pm
Classic RR! Well done!

Had a good chuckle at "the nicotine monster hard at work: "Feed me Seymour!".......I would never ever have left without stocking up on the coffin nails first. That's almost as bad as being stuck out in the middle of nowhere with 10 packs of smokes, but nothing to light them with!

That road around Brandberg is KAK! My radiator fan sheared off it's mountings on that road. It honestly got to a point where I was waiting for various bits 'n pieces to start falling off. Battery packed in a day later on the way to Solitaire - dead short. I suspect that "that road" was the cause of that failure.

You're right about running out of water to the north of there. A dutch couple got stranded there a few years ago, and hubby had died before someone stumbled onto them.

Anway - thanks for the report. Fantastic trip!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 04, 2017, 08:53:00 am
As no book deals are forthcoming I am finding myself at work >:(...and I am not liking it :dousing:

Family and friends are also making demands on my time as they haven't seen me for a month...nice to know they care but after the solo hop in Nam it all feels like a bit much. Too many things happening, to many people to appease. >:( I can feel myself slipping into "moerige bliksem" default setting once again. Reckon I will be ready for another big trip by December at this rate...

Thank you all once again for reading and all the compliments.

PS: Someone asked for pics of the damage to the bike. Sorry but headstay was already at 2StrokeDan for repair (Dankie Danie :thumleft:) before I could take pics. Here it is after Danie gave it some luv (he really cannot help himself when it comes to any Yamaha).

Last night I added some additional bracing and then its painting and refitting. After that a service and then I intend to once and for all solve the annoying rear indicator issue.

PS: Sam, I can conjure fire with sheer willpower alone if I need to light a cigarette  >:D
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on August 04, 2017, 10:48:58 am
 I can feel myself slipping into "moerige bliksem" default setting once again.

Once you have eaten of the Namcake it will be a lifelong condition. Symptoms start when maps are read in the loo :deal: :lol8: ;)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: katana on August 04, 2017, 07:15:32 pm
I can feel myself slipping into "moerige bliksem" default setting once again.

Once you have eaten of the Namcake it will be a lifelong condition. Symptoms start when maps are read in the loo :deal: :lol8: ;)
Or having a Nam tourist guide always next to your bed. 
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Baches on August 04, 2017, 07:31:23 pm
Baie dankie vir 'n lekker lees RR Stroker. Ek het die Kaokoland 'n hele paar keer die afgelope paar jaar gery maar ongelukkig net met 4x4're. Sal nou net my regte wapen moet kies. Die 990 of die XR650L.

Rickus hoeveel is julle wat gaan ?
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 04, 2017, 07:42:56 pm
Vat die XR... without a doubt. As jy VZP gaan skip dan dalk die 990...vat net genoeg sous. Apparently drink daai 990 bikes soos alkoholiste by n troue met n gratis bar as jy hulle in die sand ry.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: JG on August 04, 2017, 09:31:23 pm
What a fantastic read!! I'm really looking forward to the next one.....

Sent from my E6653 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Rickus on August 05, 2017, 09:11:59 am
Baie dankie vir 'n lekker lees RR Stroker. Ek het die Kaokoland 'n hele paar keer die afgelope paar jaar gery maar ongelukkig net met 4x4're. Sal nou net my regte wapen moet kies. Die 990 of die XR650L.

Rickus hoeveel is julle wat gaan ?

3...2 x 950 en 1 x 990......die 990 het darem n groot Safari tenk op, maar ek en my broer moet maar sous saam ry
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Baches on August 05, 2017, 01:38:15 pm
Lekker man. Jip was met my 990 nou af Gemsbok Rally toe. Ry oor 160 en kyk hoe ver raak die pompe van mekaar af. Geniet julle trip man.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Beserker on August 07, 2017, 10:58:57 am
Reserved judgement till the end...

All I can say, knowing where you come from, awesome

You beat a few devils, scored a humdinger of a trip.


-5Deg my gat.

As I have never done Nam in winter I erred on the side of cauting and went looking for thermal sleeping bag liners. The very helpfull gentleman (shyster) at Cape Union Fart assured me that this thin travel liner will add 15Deg and he easily swindled the R680 from my wallet like taking candy from a baby. twatwaffle.

15Deg extra my gat. More like 2...maybe :dousing:


A good friend (can't remember who), outdoor kit guru of note once told me that a -15 rating does not mean you are comfy and snugly, it only means that you won't  die   :P

Wait, I remember now who he was  - it was you  :imaposer:

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 07, 2017, 12:19:56 pm
Erm...yes guilty your honourable.

The expression "do as I say not as I do" comes to mind :imaposer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: tyrebraaier on August 09, 2017, 11:52:57 am
The sincerity of your writings are humbling - van NG psalms uit volle bors tot 'n vetkoek anerkant VzP  :pot: baie mooi storie - groot ballas (en big respect) vir solo adventure

Beautiful broer... If there is no book deal upcoming I have lost my faith in humanity... maybe a trip somewhere will restore it ;)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Slim Jim on August 09, 2017, 12:49:44 pm
The sincerity of your writings are humbling - van NG psalms uit volle bors tot 'n vetkoek anerkant VzP  :pot: baie mooi storie - groot ballas (en big respect) vir solo adventure

Beautiful broer... If there is no book deal upcoming I have lost my faith in humanity... maybe a trip somewhere will restore it ;)
2nd that , I can't wait for the next trip you do , come on budd , kit up , rob a bank and go !!!!!!!! :lamer:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 23, 2017, 08:39:09 am
Once again thank you for all the compliments :)

I cannot remember if it was this ride report or another thread but people were wondering about the Crowther Trail and general motorcycle access in the Palmwag concession. Attached is the Palmwag leaflet I got handed when I made similar enquiries when I was there. May be usefull to someone.

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: MiniDan on August 23, 2017, 09:34:49 am
Reserved judgement till the end...

All I can say, knowing where you come from, awesome

You beat a few devils, scored a humdinger of a trip.


-5Deg my gat.

As I have never done Nam in winter I erred on the side of cauting and went looking for thermal sleeping bag liners. The very helpfull gentleman (shyster) at Cape Union Fart assured me that this thin travel liner will add 15Deg and he easily swindled the R680 from my wallet like taking candy from a baby. twatwaffle.

15Deg extra my gat. More like 2...maybe :dousing:


A good friend (can't remember who), outdoor kit guru of note once told me that a -15 rating does not mean you are comfy and snugly, it only means that you won't  die   :P

Wait, I remember now who he was  - it was you  :imaposer:



Hahaha lag ek nou lekker. Klink soos iets wat jy sal sÍ.
Luister pluister, as my pa weer reg is moet ons n trippie doen. Daai man gaan wil ry en ons gaan moet probeer by bly... :thumleft:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on August 23, 2017, 11:02:52 am
Ja teen die tyd dat jou pa weer op die been is gaan hy erg throttle koors he.

Begin dink maar solank waar jy will gaan ry...eks keen :thumleft:. Kies net n reguit pad...jou pa sukkel so bietjie lately met draaie :pot:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Plaasseun on November 20, 2018, 12:21:55 pm
In case somebody missed this ride report, always thought this one deserved a place in the Roll of Honour section. Thank you Stroke Her, really enjoyed this one, hope you are still riding.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Pheiffer.M on November 21, 2018, 02:59:33 pm
Thanks Plaasseun, haven't seen this RR yet.  Definitely one of the best out there !!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on November 26, 2018, 12:37:19 pm
Thank you gents for your kind words.

Still riding...albeit more mountain bikes than adventure bikes.

Time to get my life organised and plan another trip.
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: tau on November 26, 2018, 02:39:40 pm
Donít let this report fool you into thinking riding there is easy!!! If things go south there and you are alone, it may very quickly become life or death.

Lekker Stroke her!!!
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on November 26, 2018, 04:07:42 pm
Tau...stop scaring the tourists :laughing4:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Tiger8 on November 27, 2018, 12:09:05 pm
That was a lekker read, thanks Plaasseun for bumping it up again  :thumleft:

Honest, well written and addictive style Stroke Her. I have a friend Jacques van Rooyen, similair sense of humour with a great turn of phrase too  :lol8:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: onderbroek on November 28, 2018, 03:21:38 pm
Awesome read Thanks!

Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: adamktm on December 03, 2018, 04:41:19 pm
Thanks for bumping it up. Great RR!

I would love to come on an adventure with you one day @Stroke Her so that I can read about it in your words afterwards! :spitcoffee:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Stroke Her on December 04, 2018, 03:03:43 pm
@adamktm judging by the sense of humour in your avatar (and foul language) we should get along just fine :thumleft:

But due to you riding a KTM the ride report will be short and go something like:

Ek en AdamKTM het gaan bike ry. Op dag een trek die naa$ weg met n moerse stofwolk...ek vreet heeldag aan daai stofwolk en toe daai eerste aand is die mood om die braai vuur amper so gebrand soos die tjops.

En toe op dag 2 kak die KTM se fuel pump en toe los ek die windtie naa$ net daar in die veld. :pot:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Rough Rider on December 04, 2018, 04:39:55 pm
Epic  ;)
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: adamktm on December 05, 2018, 01:47:06 pm
@adamktm judging by the sense of humour in your avatar (and foul language) we should get along just fine :thumleft:

But due to you riding a KTM the ride report will be short and go something like:

Ek en AdamKTM het gaan bike ry. Op dag een trek die naa$ weg met n moerse stofwolk...ek vreet heeldag aan daai stofwolk en toe daai eerste aand is die mood om die braai vuur amper so gebrand soos die tjops.

En toe op dag 2 kak die KTM se fuel pump en toe los ek die windtie naa$ net daar in die veld. :pot:

 :imaposer: :imaposer:

Just leave a dust gap and I will pack an extra pump  :laughing4:
Title: Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
Post by: Just Blip It! on February 15, 2019, 09:39:08 pm
Thanks for the lekker report! Will be there in July, can't wait!!