Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => Topic started by: tour on September 21, 2010, 06:12:08 pm

Title: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 21, 2010, 06:12:08 pm
Haloo to all
This will be my first report here.

a Year ago my mate Harold said that he wanted to take 2 months off work to travel to Malawi by bike and if i would like to join him... well without too much thinking i said YES lets do it. So the saving started, less parties and booze on the weekends and suddenly the money was saved and also one year has passed.

Harold did all the research and calculation, without him this would never of happened. I suck at all of that. So this was all his trip from the beginning to tha end... As I am a working and he is still, well BUSTED.

This trip consisted of 6 countries and 10 000kms. Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Zimbabwe, Malawi and Mozambique.
Time was 6 weeks,

The bikes were old school and super cool.

'94 Yamaha Super Tenere  xtz 750
'99 Honda   Aftrica Twin      xrv750

Tha riders were young and willing with an open book and looking for an ADVENTURE

Harold Smook  aka moloko
Rudi Neethling aka tour
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Pistonpete on September 21, 2010, 06:15:19 pm
Welcome back Tour & Moloko! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 21, 2010, 06:44:03 pm
Some more photos...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 21, 2010, 06:49:03 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 21, 2010, 06:51:49 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 21, 2010, 06:54:17 pm
hey Pete to to b here all save.

So we set off in the freezing winter cold hoping for greener and warmer pastures. It took a while.. Within our first 2 days we ran out of fuel 40 kms from Gobabis, and by some luck pulled into a really nice spot, with Harold in tow  :laughing4: The first of many tows...
 There we chilled had some kudu stakes and went on a game drive on our bikes in there bush camp.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: edgy on September 21, 2010, 06:54:53 pm
Awesome guys,really awesome! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 21, 2010, 07:12:42 pm
There were a few times where we had to stop for the red lady. She was always in control of us making us stop every few days and changing plugs but never did she give up. Made us more in tune really quickly.

These little stops every now and again made the trip more real for us, these older ladies have a lotta soul..

Namibia was just a quick moving through so that we get some distance behind us. It all started in Botswana. Looking for the unpaved roads and for the adventure. we were slowly forgetting about home and slowly getting intune with our mother Africa. but that really takes some time like a few week and lots of bush camping. Harold was letting go quicker than me, i am always a bit slow.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 21, 2010, 07:34:18 pm
O yes beer is readily availible everywhere...

so we drank some and visited a few bars on the way, not the best of ideas but you know, we were on holiday and a chance of a lifetime was unfolding before us where we were writting the book. before our first real bush camp, which we have still not experienced at this stage, we where really itching for the out there experience. looking for all possible places to set up camp. but fear was a factor. maybe it is where we come from that makes us weary of the danger that is ussualy not even there. because as we will only learn later as in all things in life... africa is really safe.

so you might be able to see that this trip was very emotional in many ways, all cannot be revealed in a report. so photos we will show with some snippets of script and wot it all meant for us.... :ricky:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 21, 2010, 07:36:37 pm
More from botswana...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: laurika on September 21, 2010, 07:41:06 pm
I LOVE this trip of yours. the pictures speak for themselves...everyone should have such an experience...for then you can say, you have truly lived.! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Snafu on September 21, 2010, 07:42:52 pm
Glad you guys are back! Hopefully the plug changes on the Ten is easier than the AT :)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 21, 2010, 07:47:59 pm

No its not. Front fearings, radiator -> plugs. The whole job takes aroung 40 minutes (unpacking tools, dropping spanners, etc included). Gives you time to meet people. This morning we met anemployed music producer wanting to find out about youtube and the internet.

Kept us entertained through the plug replacement.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 21, 2010, 07:59:30 pm
yeah we told him about "die antwoord" and how they made it only threw the net. and how he can use the net to get people to hear about his music. this was near Gobabis.. hopefully this young dude might have the will and tallent to go big. the beats that he had on his phone of his latest production was pretty cool.

we inturn learned that there wasn't much work there and also that the hip hop scene in gobabis was actually rocking or shall we say hopping... :laughing4:

he was cool and after our 40 minute chat he was inspired by us and free internet and we were starting to get the vibe of africa,... we all have dreams and we must all struggle to get it.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Crossed-up on September 21, 2010, 08:21:14 pm
Hey, glad you're back.  Look forward to the rest of the report.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gee S on September 21, 2010, 08:37:01 pm
Very nice! subscribed
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on September 21, 2010, 08:44:59 pm
Lekka ride report Thanx! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: DrDirt on September 21, 2010, 10:31:53 pm
Lekke ouens. :thumleft:
Baie mooi foto's en bly om te sien julle is terug.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Just Blip It! on September 21, 2010, 10:41:17 pm
Nice, keep it coming!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: shanti on September 21, 2010, 10:56:19 pm
Great pictures Rudi , nice one , looks like you went to some beautiful places , great photo narration .. looking forward to the rest .
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: bmad on September 22, 2010, 08:01:17 am
Awesome stuff  :thumleft:

This looks entertaining and different, looking forward to the rest.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: letsgofishing on September 22, 2010, 08:23:35 am
Looks like agreat beginning - can't wait for the rest!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Wolfmother on September 22, 2010, 08:36:10 am
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Juls06 on September 22, 2010, 08:48:52 am
Wow...these photos really look awesome :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 22, 2010, 08:54:22 am
Does anyone know where i can find a good map drawing program? I really wat to indicate our route. Otherwise i'll just include a google earth map with placemarks...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 22, 2010, 10:21:09 am
Episode 1: Cape Town to Katima Mulilo

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: CorCorlia on September 22, 2010, 10:38:55 am
Awesome photos!  Waiting for the rest...  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Kamanya on September 22, 2010, 11:13:47 am
Nice KATM!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 22, 2010, 01:31:53 pm
howsit guys and girls

hope you checked out moloko's vids. showing and telling you all about the trip is really cool as it just brings it all back again.

before we hit the Caprivi strip< guess wot? no strippers...> we went past Tsidilo hills. As you might know Botswana it FLAT like pancake and no banana. except for Tsidilo hills and another spot nearby. so imagine getting there to go check out a big rock and some paintings, my excitement level was not to high.
but wot we found there was again exceptional...

to be continued later... with the exceptional meeting
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gat Slag on September 22, 2010, 02:13:57 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: AntonW on September 22, 2010, 02:32:39 pm
So the towing lessons and tow rope I gave paid off   :biggrin:

Keep it coming
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 22, 2010, 03:28:31 pm
The towing was moerse intense!!

It was the second day and we decided to fill up in Rehoboth (Namibia), skip Windhoek and fill up at Withoogte. Tracks for Africa indicated fuel and a backpackers.

However, when we arrived at Withoogte we discovered the backpackers have a overgrown garden, no roof or windows, no fence... it almost looked like the fuel station which was non existant!! We arrived there with the Ten sucking on petrol vapour.

So we decided to push to Gobabis, but about 5km outside Withoogte the Ten was empty. Sun was down and the stars rapidly made their appearence. The bush camp idea came up a few times during 'plan b' discussions, but we decided to tow the Ten, on the Trans Kalahari Highway, at night...

The 45 km to Gobabis took us about 1h30min. BIG trucks and heavy traffic made that hour and a half feel like an eternity. Bonuses included a full moon rising over the Kalahari, cherry/brandy mix, feeling of adventure, being exposed to 'who-knows-what' on day two.

We arrived at Xian Quaz camp at about 21h00 that night. David (lodge owner) was busy locking the farm gates when he saw this strange set of lights bouncing towards him. What he thought was a taxi with the driver using a torch as a right headlight turned out to be two bikers... both hungry, thirsty and tired.

We booked in and decided to stay two nights which included kudu steaks, cold beer and sigerettes, beds, big fire place, cement slab for bike check-ups, lots of wildlife... o and he would get some petrol from town the next day.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 22, 2010, 04:01:33 pm
hey anton took a 3 meter cable for locking up the bikes, hah only used it for towing.... the red girl is really thursty.

love dem phat girls  :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: wayneh on September 22, 2010, 04:46:14 pm
Eeish.  :drif:

Thanks Tour & Moloko - am feeling inspired for a lekker long, life-changing African trip.
Awesome RR.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: MrBig on September 22, 2010, 05:38:36 pm
wow 2 months!
fantastic  ;D
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: goingnowherequickly on September 22, 2010, 06:11:21 pm
Great fotos guys
that sand looks splendid for towing thru too :mwink:
looking forward for some more
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Baches on September 22, 2010, 06:16:39 pm
Lekker where's the rest ?
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 22, 2010, 06:18:39 pm
goingnowherequickly ... sand is just as splendid to running start the bike

Baches ... patience, buddy. This is a very long trip, filled with some very cool stories.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: wayneh on September 22, 2010, 07:23:21 pm
Enjoyed this pic... The rock formation looks like a military boot, standing on top of the African continent.  ;D   Poetic.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 23, 2010, 08:27:15 am
Its called Africa Rock... its at the Tsodilo Hills (mountain of the gods), the highest peak in Botswana. We went there on our last day in the Okavango. The mountains are a spectacular site full of san rock art and prehistoric civilisation. According to historians this location was very important in prehistoric inter continental trade routes, between 50 000 and 100 000 years ago. Quite extrodinary.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: D man on September 23, 2010, 12:10:22 pm
Any mention of the word “Malawi” and you have my full attention.  I am always interested in another perspective of that awesome place.

So far, I’m impressed, looking forward to the rest of the report.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 23, 2010, 12:45:48 pm
cool feedback from all     thanx  :thumleft:

So while we were at the hills we meet this rather friendly man with an entourage. big smile and asking us what we are doin and why. That question of Why? is asked always with a slight look of amazement or are you just plain stupid????
After a brief and friendly chat this guy leaves and bids us a safe journey. Then as everybody leaves the older Canadian women stops with us and asked if we knew who that was. no was our reply and she then goes on to tell us that that big friendly man is the Head of the Archiology in Botswana and that she always respectfully calls him SIR.

I felt like a bit of a tit for not shaving for 5 days and looking a bit rough.

She then goes on to tell us all about how this Tsidilo hills is actually one of the main hotspots for the beginning of man type of importance. Harold can tell you more about this in more detail. i was still feeling like a tit..
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 23, 2010, 01:03:34 pm
So after an awesome time in Botswana we headed off to the Caprivi strip and lots of ELEPHANTS.
on entering the strip before sunset we almost run into some kudu, this was cool. so we looked for a place to stay and got some tented acommadation onthe river. you could hear the hippo's and all animals at your doorstep. up early the next morning in the lookout to spot some elephant. nice expresso and special siggies and no elephant.

so we decided to head off into the strip of 400km tar. there must be ellies. so after 200km of still no ellies and no gravel we decide to take detours off the main road, omega 1, 2 and 3 is little villages along the way. so then stopped at every bar and had a beer or 2 or 3. the straight road became less straight at this point.

now we then started looking for a place to stay and the locals told us about a new place on the kwando river. harold wot was the name???
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Pistonpete on September 23, 2010, 01:07:03 pm
Bit early in the morning for caprivi cabbage....no wonder you could see fark all ellies.... 8)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 23, 2010, 01:25:31 pm
Sekaseka Camp on the Kwando River. Ice cold beer!!! The bar and views were truly spectacular!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 23, 2010, 02:15:06 pm
so please be warned!!!

drinking and drining dont mix well  :ricky:

fell into the same thornbush twice and pissed of a whole bunch of young tourist and luckily dont recall too much.

needless to say no more drinking and driving
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 23, 2010, 02:55:40 pm
Hi Guys

On demand - Tsodilo Hills video



Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: AntonW on September 23, 2010, 02:58:39 pm
I will take that warning and try to miss the thorn bush   :imaposer:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 23, 2010, 03:32:46 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: laurika on September 23, 2010, 03:57:42 pm
Enjoyed this pic... The rock formation looks like a military boot, standing on top of the African continent.  ;D   Poetic.

fantastic...i did not even spot the boot till you showed us!!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 24, 2010, 12:14:47 pm
Hi Guys

You'll be pleased to know that the Tsodilo Hills video, published yesterday, was the 58 most viewed youtube video in South Africa.

Thank you for your continued support.

Go to


for our newest video... The Okavango delta.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: zetman on September 24, 2010, 04:00:27 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 25, 2010, 09:06:23 am
The Caprivi/Kwando section was loads of fun. As rudi mentioned, the highway was dead quiet and we decided to check out if there might be a gravel road running parallel with the main road... we found a service road all along the high voltage power lines runing the entire length of the caprivi. This was a very weird section - for one the sand was deep, soft and the road was very dificult. The type of road where you scramble around 1st and second trying to keep the bike moving forward.

We also found the strangest settlelments - Omega 1 and 3 which we later found out was abandoned army camps. The camps are full of friendly, unemployed people. Of course we headed off to the nearest shebeen to test ther local beers (black label quarts) and to mingle with the locals.

By this time the brandy/cherry mix was flowing and i struggled to keep rudi's mind on the road to reach our destination for the day, i.e. the kwando river. We made the rule... if you stop you drink. Of course, riding in the sand invoilves quite a lot of stops...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 25, 2010, 09:10:09 am
Rudi making close friens with the caprivians   :o

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: TerrorSA on September 25, 2010, 10:48:29 am
Awesome trip guys  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 25, 2010, 11:53:32 am
Sorry Rudi, but i have to elaborate on the cherry/brandy mix. I think the pictures taken on the sekaseka camp access road explains this best...

Notice how the duct tape secure the screen and the fearings


Please check out our new video: The Caprivi

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Marnus on September 25, 2010, 12:17:16 pm
Hehehe... I'm enjoying this one!  >:D
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 25, 2010, 12:54:11 pm
More pictures from Sekaseka and the Kwando River (Caprivi)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 25, 2010, 12:57:30 pm

Check out Rudi taking a babalas skinny dip to wash off the bad karma of the previous day... he knows what i'm talking about.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 25, 2010, 07:11:31 pm
Hi Guys

Just a remember to keep following us at:

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Camelman on September 27, 2010, 11:02:27 am
Awesome RR.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: DD650 on September 27, 2010, 12:34:08 pm
Great RR so far! Would love to do a trip like this on the bikes!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 27, 2010, 03:58:57 pm
Thanks for the feedback guys...

So, after staying on the Kwando river for two nights (for Africa Twin repairs, backgammon lessons, cold beer and pre prepared food) we left for Zambia. Our first stop was at katima mulilo where we went to the hardware store (very big one at that) to get replacement parts for the rattled-to-death tripod and to purchase a metal file if anything were to happen to our chains. Then came the border crossings...

Checking out of Namibia was no biggy. Zambia, however, was a difirent story. I could not beleive how dodgy the zambian border was. I went in first (rudi stayed with the bikes). After signing in a man in a suit took me to one of the back rooms where the negotiations started. First it was changing american dollars to kwatcha (they only accept large denominations and dollar notes must be crispy, untorn and without blemish). Of course they make about 15 - 20% proffit on the exchange rate. Then you pay your entrance fee. This done you go to the next room for compulsory local third party insurance plus carbon tax (which at the time, we're told, has not even passed legislation). This room did not echange dollars, so i had to go back to the previous room to change currency. After all border formalities you exit the building and go to the trailers standing outside the border post. Here you pay local access fees... this goes to the chief of the district.

Another man came up to us and showed us in the direction of another trailer for more payments... here rudi and i decided to get on the bikes and ride into the sun. If they caught us skipping this payment we'll just plead ignorance.

We left the border about three in the afternoon wanting to push on to Livingstone. The smooth chinese roads was a suprise (if they will last out the next year is another story).

We arrived in Livingsone and decided to stay at the Faulty Towers. We arrived there in bush mode and we were supprised and quite disgusted in the backpackers comming all the way from america and europe, sitting there watching MTV. WHAT IS THE POINT!!

Ignoring the backpackers' warning of muggings and danger at night (hey, two streetwise guys from SA... what can go wrong), Rudi and i had a few Mozis (local beer), washed off some dust and decided to hit the town.

The next morning we decided 'what happens in zambia stays in zambia' (we actually decided this midway through the previous evening).   :mwink:

What unfolded the next couple of days was truly a highlight on our trip and one of the best experiences of my life...

Vic falls, two rastas, loads of ellies, beautiful scenery and just being the chillest i've ever been. It was awasome!!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 27, 2010, 04:20:12 pm
Some photos of Zambia border (by the time i took the second photo the guard with the AK - behind the car - was ordering me to pack away the camera... scary stuff).

Also, one of my favourite vic falls photos (taken by rudi) - I call it 'Good and Evil'
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: N[]vA on September 27, 2010, 04:21:46 pm
awesome Rudi :)

My kinda traveling
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 27, 2010, 05:55:30 pm
As Harold had said before ,the zambia border was the real gateway into "Africa" controlled by the US Dollar. at the customs office the 1st room had 2 guys and a container full of dollars. like you see with the gangstas in the hollywood movies. don t get me wrong the guys are real friendly and outside there is a real big sign that says

                    "Zambia says NO to corruption"
so i am sure the money goes to the right places... Also something that we notices was the sign that said                                  welcome to central africa

this we only really noticed once we hit the town... we only planned for a dinner but...
you see Livingstone is a different city. it reminded me a lot about some of the south american cities without the spanish. a lot of vibe and really rundown. well that is only so to the naked eye.

here is where we really felt like a white dude in africa. very out of place and a feeling of really small.
 WELCOME 2 AFRICA!!!    was the theme. and here is where the trip started.

SO... we went for dinner and fresh zambizi bream was on the menu. yumm yumm so halfway through our meal there was a very attractive pair of ladies that joined us. Ashri and gigi where 2 well spoken, well educated and well hot girls that showed me (harold has a girlfriend) the way of livingstone. the nightclubs the beer and the wild dancing then continued till probably 3 or 4 in the morning. love that place..

so waking to a screaming babalas and not being able to ride my bike we then decided to walk to vic falls as some american dude told us that it was a half hour walk....

so after 10 kms and just the most awesomest day chillin with da rastas and finely spotting those damn ellies up close and personal. WE WERE IN AFRICA !!!!!!!!!  O0

spent the whole dat at the falls, was really very special and emotional.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 27, 2010, 06:05:47 pm
just can stress how amazing this place is and the time that we were fortunate enough to have experienced here. the walk  to the falls had given us a closer connection to africa again. day by day it eats at you and also just gives in abundance. the people, the bush and all that is good.

we were now fully into it and ready for wot eva was coming, little did we now that it was still only but the start...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Beserker on September 29, 2010, 03:44:22 pm
Lekka Rudi..btw, me is back!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Diesel & Dust on September 29, 2010, 04:13:24 pm
First pic is amazing :thumleft:
Second pic - The biker looks like a giant looking at pygmies :laughing4:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on September 29, 2010, 04:22:27 pm
That photo was taken when we returned from our game drive (on the bike of course). Rudi started playing around with the camera exposure when we decided that i would go and 'paint' the trees with our headlamps. Maybe rudi can show some more... (i dont want to post these pictures as rudi set the camera and took the pictures... i was just the assistant running like mad to get even light distribution without being caught in the shot)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Rynet on September 29, 2010, 04:33:18 pm
Lekker trip ! Love the fotos  ,esp the one of the cows next to the petrol "station" ( nr1438) , and the ones of the locals esp nrs 1638 and 4520  :thumleft: please can you e-mail those three to me ? sent you a pm also  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: wildside on September 30, 2010, 12:00:28 pm
Reading a RR like this helps one get through the day and encourages one to start planning another trip bringing out ones irresponsible side. Well done  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 30, 2010, 06:28:33 pm
thanx again for the cool feedback

rynet and diesel some more pics. beserker bly jy en 2sd is veilig terug, wag vir julle stories...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on September 30, 2010, 06:46:19 pm
Well well...

almost near another highlight, but not yet  >:D

so just a little teazer is wot you will get as this next section of the ride was our most epic for reasons that cannot be disclosed just yet....

OH and these next photo's is just the tip of the iceburg
so till next week, have a nice weekend... :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on September 30, 2010, 09:19:45 pm
You okes are having such a jol...

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 04, 2010, 01:55:19 pm

On our last day in livingstone we went for a quick ride towards Zimbabwe. We stopped at the boder post, got our day 'walk in' pass and off we went to have a G&T at the Victoria Falls Hotel. And what a beautiful site!! What neither Rudi or i could understand was how the hell Zimbabwe can fund the maintenance of such a spectacular hotel with the amount of visitors on the Zimbabwe side.

After our last glimpse of the falls we went back to livingstone to pack. After about 2 hours (1 hour for packing and another hour to wait for rudi to pack, tighten and retighten his luggage, cleaning and recleaning visor etc) we left livingstone in the direction of sinazongwe which is on the Kariba lake. We took a few wrong turns here and there and subsequently took an earlier turnoff to sinazongwe... before we knew it the sun was setting and there was no lake in sight. In addition the area was quite populated and bush camping was out of the order. We decided to push on... and on... and on into this unknown road full of potholes and water crossings in the night.

We enetually arrived in Sinazongwe and found a place where we could hear the water breaking. The next morning we woke up to the Kariba lake...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: KwaiPappaGaai on October 04, 2010, 02:29:03 pm
I was i caprivi December and i promised my self to go back on my bike. Were were there in a hilux...
Aswesome pictures!Cant wait for more!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 04, 2010, 03:05:46 pm
I woke up that next morning sick as hell. Low energy, throwing up, bad tummy, confused, feverish. But we decided to soldier on. We packed at a very slow pace, got fuel from a hard negotiating little bugger in town (Almost R 16/l) and headed of into the truly unknown.

We started our 1.5 day (which turned out to be 4 days) trip to siavonga via uncharted roads. We reconned that if the lake is on the right we're going in the right direction.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 04, 2010, 04:34:29 pm
there was no we in the soldiering side of things.Harold was miff so he had to soldier on. i asked if he didn't rather want to rest for the day as we where in such a cool spot right next to the Lake, butt he was stubborn, ja yster is die woord.
by the fuel stop i could see that he was not well but we didn't know wot was wrong. we had consumed the same food and drink for the last week so it couldn't have been my cooking. so i tried to convince myself. :mwink:

we were truelly entering a wild area and i was really feeling for my buddy as i new he was not lekker. and in this type of place i was loving it and worried that the experience wasn't so cool for him. so after about 25km i came around a corner to see him sitting next to his bike surrounded by cows, it was very comical yet serious at the same time. the road was still in a fair condition so we, harold, soldiered on. kids came running out to greet us and rivers were beeing crossed. paths were criss crossing and we just went in the general direction that we thought was right. my gps had not been functioning well for some time now and i had to use it like a map, was good enough for us. this was the area that we were dreaming of. real bush with no cars and only the locals.

this stretch of  270 km was, as harold said before, seposed to take us a day and a half. butt we soon came to realise that,that will not be. we had enough food for a few days  but not too much water.
after a few more kms you could see that the road had not seen cars for a very long time and that it was becoming a little more interresting. we were in it now....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 04, 2010, 04:48:58 pm
this was wot we were dreaming of but after 30 km we had to stop. harold had no energy and was white in the face. we had also just come to a place where you needed to be awake and not half dead. o it was also very hot and our water was getting less. we came to a river where the road or bridge had been swept away many years ago. harold made it half way through but stopped. we both knew that if something was to happen here we would be royally fuc...ed. so we stopped. now i cannot tell you wot we were going threw. we were baffled by this dissease, we had thought of malaria and food poisoning as the possible culpret but i was okay so malaria was ringing in our ears....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 04, 2010, 08:02:55 pm
the place where we finely stopped turned out to be another blessing in disguise. so while harold was drifting into a state of euphoria i set out to scout out our little haven for the night. what i found was really cool.there was a river with sandy beach and some shade. what more would you want while in africa???

so while harold was lying in the shade trying not to freak out too much, thoughts of malaria in his head. a few local lads rocked up out of no where as there always does. we try in our best sign language to find out if it would be alright to stay there fot the night. luckily there is 1 lad that says it is cool and that we will not offend any one.

now this will be our first official bushcamp, so the nerves are a bit high on my side and harold 's too, well he was hoping to just not die during the evening. so after a bit more time of scouting the area went ahead to set up camp.it took me about 2 hours to get the bikes to where we wanted to set up camp. thick riversand and rocks with big loaded bikes was hard, also the very hot climate made me sweat alot.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 04, 2010, 08:33:03 pm
so now and again things happen for a reason that we cannot explain at the time but thankfully do teach us things..
now we were slightly nervous,harold maybe not but i was for sure. in the bush far from home with no one to hear you scream. how studip was I. because this was a place of more lessons to be taught to us. we spend the rest of the day just hangin with these guys. only 1 dude could speak some english. we were as big of an amusement for them as they were for us. all my stupid fears had luckily left me and harold was feeling better.

we would later start to collect wood and everyone started helping, harold started the bierbrood and we drank one each as harold was feeling much better as the sun was setting. the time spend there that day will stay in my memory for a long time. sorry but i cannot explain it too much because the words are just not there. at some stage during the evening all the guys got up and went there own way.

we found out that these guys make a living catching fish with nets and that some one comes by boat to collect it. there was a lot of staring and laughs. also they have seen white guys pass on the road maybe 4 times in the last couple of years but never stopped there for the nite so we were something of interest for them as many of them had never interacted with a white guy before. they were surprised at how similar we all were. there was also 2 bikes that had passed here in the wet season which they helped to pass the river. maybe metaljockey??? that first caterpillar on the riverbank looked all to familiar when we started this road. damn we were not the first.... and also respect for doing this section in the wet. we just thought no way.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on October 04, 2010, 08:58:03 pm
 :thumleft: LEKKA! I want more!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 04, 2010, 09:04:16 pm
must tell you all one thing. i slept like a baby that nite. the next morning we woke to another glorias day, and luckily my friend harold was feeling tip top. strange those 24 hour virusses... :laughing4: so we were stoked. all safe and all healthy. but we didn't just pack up and go, no way could we just leave this awesome place so soon. so after a cuppa espresso we decided to pack up and then go for a walk to see wot is lying around here. our new friends were also around real early. they didn't like our espresso so much. tea was more their thing. so we had arranged with the guys for some fish as you cannot get fresher than this. so harold and myself rolled a fatty and went exploring by foot. must admit that a i was slightly weary still to be leaving all of my possesions right there in clear si9ght as we were wandering off. but our new friends never touched anything.

so after a wake and bake, we walked to the begining of the lagoon. we were just chillen there when from the other side we saw this little maroko paddling our way. so after a long time this man in a red t shirt paddles right up to us. stands there with the biggest smile and just greets us. so we are all smiles and do alot of waving and greeting. he then turns around and paddles back, now this is a rather far distance to paddle to just say high. but that is wot he did. we were now truely loving it more and more. never have i experienced people that are so friendly. and after half an hour he reached the other side again where he was greeted with cheers from his companians. so right there and then we shouted more greetings from our side of the lagoon to be echoed with more laughter and haloooos from them. how cool was that. now we where really in it. we didnt want to leave. so after getting back to our camp our young fiends rocked up with 2 kariba bream almost still kicking so we gutted them and had lekker fish braai for breaky. one of the guys wife also showed up to check out what these 2 okes on the bikes were doin. she was very shy but loved our little braai grid. didnt like the espresso either.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 04, 2010, 09:34:10 pm
so after breakfast of kariba bream and italian espresso. we decided to head off. our hearts were heavy with sadness of leaving this spot but there was still so much more to see. damn we have only just done 30 km of 270. now to get the bikes out again and onto the road, well sort of a road. this took us some time and a few falls, harold has now no more wind shield.
and it was getting hot again. luckily we could get water here out of the river. so after drinking about a liter each just getting the bikes outta here we were slightly concerned but not too much as this is africa and she will provide. now it was about midday by the time we crossed the river. and only to be met by rocks... oh yes it was hot and we were drinking lots but we were ready for adventure and whatever will come our way. now at this stage we were in heaven. 2 good mates 2 cool bikes running really well and the complete unknown waiting for us. now the road was disappearing rapidly. single track 2 spoor and some places sommer no track. i must admit when there is no more road left and still more than 200km left to go to the next petrol and water and civilisation you do start to doubt your decisions. so after 5 km of really cool crossings and riding through dongas and the most amazing landscape something happened which we thought could not and would not happen. As our friend mike aka superfoxi told us during one of our pre trip fixing and getting the red lady ready "

"It is not like your bike will ever be pissing oil everywhere"

so the next bit of the story is not mine to tell. this is for moloko to render his version
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on October 04, 2010, 09:41:06 pm
"It is not like your bike will ever be pissing oil everywhere"

Uuups... did I say that? ::) Baad karma...!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 04, 2010, 10:33:59 pm
Hey superfoxi, before we give you more let me show you some more photos. When i woke up the next morning, about 3 hours before rudi opens his eyes, i went for a short walk. It was beautiful...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 04, 2010, 10:40:58 pm
Here rudi was braaing the briem he was talking about earlier (taking pointers from the local on how to cook fish i might add  :laughing4:)

And how i list my screen...   :-\
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 04, 2010, 10:46:22 pm
some more pictures of that glorious morning...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 04, 2010, 10:52:01 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on October 05, 2010, 02:07:01 am
Brilliant stuff guys....!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 05, 2010, 06:15:54 am
yhahaha that last one of me lying over is very funny. wot you cant see or hear is my finger caught between the clutch and the handlebar. and me screaming like a little girl cause some fuel was leaking. in hindsight i should of waited more patiently for harold to take more pics. that was a good spot for some comedy  :laughing4:

that was at 14;00 and 5 mins before...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 05, 2010, 07:40:38 am
Great RR guys :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 05, 2010, 08:17:26 am
yhahaha that last one of me lying over is very funny. wot you cant see or hear is my finger caught between the clutch and the handlebar. and me screaming like a little girl cause some fuel was leaking. in hindsight i should of waited more patiently for harold to take more pics. that was a good spot for some comedy  :laughing4:

that was at 14;00 and 5 mins before...

Yup, about 5 minutes before we drove over some serious rocks. I waiter for tour and saw him taking a moerse knock on the bash plate. I told him to check it out, however, when he looked back all i could see was his eyes locked below my bash plate.

Something you never want to hear in uncharted Zambia "shit your oil is gushing out of your engine".

So i closed the fuel taps, put the bike on its side and started the clean and repair process. Pratley Steel is compulsory DS gear... almost as important as a helmet.

Photos will best explain:

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 05, 2010, 08:28:30 am
Cleaned the crack with petrol and sand paper... built up the cracks with layers of pratley steel. We decided not to take any chances and stay right there in the bush while the pratley sets.

Rudi found us a great possy while i was repairing the crack so all i had to do was to focus on the repairs. O, and our water was running very low... more of that a bit later.

O, and always pack some fizzers... when days are dark those puppies will turn any frown upside down  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 05, 2010, 08:39:30 am
... the Ten was back in business...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: AntonW on October 05, 2010, 12:42:58 pm
Sweet guys.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Metaljockey on October 05, 2010, 04:17:27 pm
Lovely stuff! That last river had very nearly forced us to turn around. What month of the year did you pass through there?

That is a hell of a place to break an engine casing, you won't get help out there in a hurry. Also it looks to me like you are heading down a dead end road?

That route is The shit.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 05, 2010, 04:35:26 pm
We went through early july... and before we left we had a look at what you guys did, which is f@rking ensane. The road was not on the map or GPS so we really did not have a clue where we were riding. Only when we saw the damaged digger Rudi realised that we might be on that same road. And yes... it is the shit!!!

Anyway, after i fixed the crack in the engine casing we made a fire and started to ration our water. It was hot and about 18h00 - i had about 500ml and rudi a bit more than that. It had to last us through the night and into the next day - what time we did not know.

Our camp spot was perfect in every sense... F-all in all directions.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 05, 2010, 09:19:34 pm
it was i bit of a worry the water problem, we had more brandy than water  :laughing4: not beeing able to drink as we didn't know when next we could get water made things worst. even though are bodies was okay and not really in need of any we were craving it cause it was so little. well luckily we had 1 more beer specially left over for harold's famous bier broodjie. so that nite we feasted like kings in the middle of no where  :ricky:

as the  sun came up the next day our thirst was gone how wierd we thought. yeah be weary of your mind, hehehe
so we then decided without a doubt that we had to use some water for espresso as no day can start without it. yeah we are coffee whores  >:D

so after packing and loving the day we saw this kid with a red t shirt checking us from the distance, so we waved hallo  and it got returned. we waved again and he came a little closer. so after about 15 mins of waving and coming closer there was 3 boys near us and we knew if they had water then we could possibly also get some... yeah we were saved... but now how the hell to ask for water as amansi doesn't mean shit in zambia. but after a while of talking with the hands and all sorts of hand gestures we got if right and we were on the path. okay so the magic hand sign for water in i think the most of africa is

an up and down movement with your hand or hands like priming a pump.  :ricky:

for here and in many rural areas they have wells that work by hand pump. so if ever you get stuck without water just gooi your hands up and down like that. o it was quite a comedy of errors till we got to that stage tho.

so off we set on our bikes with these kids leading the way. now as it started getting really rough and we were halfway up this hill with dongas on the left and the right they stopped us and gestured us onto a little footspoor going away from the lake and the "road". o yes we have not really seen the lake for some time now but new it was there. it was a standing joke as for the whole 270 kms you never really see the lake,

so after about another km going in the wrong direction we get to a few hutts, i mean there is nothing only people really amazed at wot these kids have dragged back. kids running away. so we stop the engines and s this old mama comes out of her straw hutt with this dirty old plastic bak with water, inside was a koppie even dirtier. man was that the bestest cup of water that i had ever had in my life. we figured if harold didnt die yesterday we could handle a nother day of mysterious disseases.

so a bit further we went with almost every one in tow to the main village that was also very small. there we got to the well and filled our water supply after drinking our fill. then an old madala come out and he spoke some english. we then made sure that everybody knew that this boy with the red t shirt saved our lifes.

we were then pointed awy from the lake again with a reassurance that, that is the right direction to ciavonga. we were not so sure but we followed anyway...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 05, 2010, 09:34:14 pm
here are some pics of our saviours.
the kid with the red t shirt also with one arm on the left.
the mamma that gave us the water from heaven
and some other stuff that same day

i think harold might have some more.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 05, 2010, 09:39:48 pm
some more
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 05, 2010, 10:27:50 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 05, 2010, 10:37:47 pm
../ water never tasted as sweet
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 06, 2010, 07:43:10 am
You guys are having a seriously good trip :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 06, 2010, 08:33:08 am
Before long another day of riding was finished. Our destination, i.e. siavonga, seemed to be a myth. With the sun setting we decided to set up camp deep in the bush... we did not want to bother or impose on the locals.

When darkness fell we truly felt the African experience... you can hear villages from miles away, people singing, animals with bells attached to their necks roaming the uncultivated bushlands. And we had LOTS of water. Not making that mistake again.

It was a hard day in the saddle with beautiful scenery, friendly people and great technical riding sections. Also many wrong turns that chipped away on our progress. We felt very alive!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Panjo on October 06, 2010, 09:18:36 am
EPIC Journey! Respect and admiration to you both
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Frohan Visser on October 06, 2010, 09:44:19 am
Nice one!!!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: funacide on October 06, 2010, 10:34:08 am
Hey Guys

Really enjoying this, please keep it coming.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gryshond on October 06, 2010, 02:40:09 pm
This RR is great, keep it coming.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 06, 2010, 03:59:00 pm
we were now fully engulfed into the bush, stopping at every village to get water. well more like chatting and taking pics with
the locals. you will first get the odd look then people gathering and then the camera comes out and it is all laughs and giggles. just to see their faces on the screen makes there day or year. we were asked if we work for government or for world aid and every time we would say no... so why are you doing this??? to meet you!!! would be our answer. they felt real cool then.

On one occasion i had like a 5 year old girl move me out of the way of the pump cause i was doin it wrong... she was so proud to show the umlungu the right way. moloko waas daai foto??? we also met some church goin people that took our photos while posing with them.

most of the zambians were just sooo friendly. we never felt like there was any threat at all. humble people all round. and the most prettyiest girls in all of southern africa too. we saw at least 20 ladies that could be the new face of africa winner.

so water was in abundance now but harold's red lady was getting thirsty. and we saw no cars here...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 06, 2010, 04:42:32 pm
... as per your request
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 06, 2010, 04:58:30 pm
Woo, that last photo i was super paranoid!!! We went to this bar in Chipepo to have a few beers and to stock up on some bully beef and cookies (or whatever was available). We started chatting to the guys but there wsas some sort of aura about the whole situation. The guy withthe round face kept asking me really hectic probing questions about our trip... each of my answers fell on very sceptical ears, met with laughter between the locals. It was if they did not trust us. They also kept talking and it started too feel like they were trying to keep us there. Later on a land cruiser with some very snazzy people arrived all wanting to know more about our trip, why we took that road, where we slept, 'do you know about the resources in the area'. I really felt vulnerable when the guy offered us protection... from what i still dont know.

As soon as they guy went inside i told Tour to say his goodbyes and lets be on our way. Not

There was something wrong at that bar - nothing to pinpoint but you know when you have to make a move.

Fuel in the red lady was running low again. We thought our destination or some other fuel stop couldn't be too far off, however, we did not anticipate the multiple wrong turns and technical sections lying ahead. GREAT fun!!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 06, 2010, 05:05:51 pm
that last photo in the bar was our last visit to a bar... i had fallen my poe. off just before and wanted a beer, so after a beer or 2. we got offered protection... wtf? luckily i never heard that but harold got offered by the big dude with one foot. said he worked for the government. now if someone offers you that get out cause that is only bad news..

so the lesson was.. a bar is a bar where eva you are so if you want that experience there is always one nearer your home and we were away from home so wanted something else. that didin t mean that we never drank beer again tho >:D

now we were making really good distance through awesome terrain and we knew our final destination was between 70 and 120kms away. my baby was giving me about 22km/l butt harolds lady was more demanding like way more. think he was already in reserve....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 06, 2010, 06:05:28 pm
some pics
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 06, 2010, 06:10:13 pm
this is the last pics that i have before we reach heaven. butt before you reach heaven you must first almost die...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Marnus on October 06, 2010, 07:30:34 pm
Wow! A real McDonalds report...

I'm LOVING it!!!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: laurika on October 06, 2010, 07:38:01 pm
Wow! A real McDonalds report...

I'm LOVING it!!!!
yes, this is the things a book is made off.....always dream of being that free, and inventive, and open, and not bath, and only have one set of pants...and winging it.....and all of it in great pictures and oration.....the boys are also quite hansum, so i think in short.....there is a book here somewhere.... :thumleft: again...or have i said that before...and they are QUITE HANSUM...shoot , am sure ive said that before....where is firecracker when you need her????? :-\
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 07, 2010, 10:17:31 am
You're too kind , Laurika  ;)

Back to the story...

As Tour said he was cruising along at 22km/l. My red lady, however, was gulping along at 8-10km/l - this resulted in a very interesting afternoon.

After taking the umpteenth wrong turn the Ten started to stutted. At this time the problem with my fuel consumtion was not yet known. We rode for probably 30 minutes wen the road just got narrower and narrower until we reached a small piece of cultivated land. The farmer stopped us and indicated that we have to go all the way back and take one of the previous turnoffs. It was hot and with all of the riding in thick, sandy riverbeds rudi and i was getting tired.

To top it all off, i was out of fuel. Doing quick calculations we decided to take two litres from rudi's AT and push towards Siavonga (we still did not have a clue how far it was or how to get there). We rode for 16-20km and againtook out 2 litre from the AT. All the wrong turns and technical riding slurped my fuel out of the tank. Another 2l transplant and 16km... this happened twice until we rode into a rural settlement.

We found one of those mobile clinics (doctors on bikes) where one of the doctors sorted us out with three litres. He also pointed us in the direction of Siavonga, a short cut, which was STILL 60km away. Which ment that even with his 3l contribution i could maybe reach halfway (and maybe with some more help from rudi and some very conservative riding, we could reach siavonga).

This was not the case. As per schedule, 30km later the Ten was done with its fuel rattion and the sun was edging towards the horizon. We deliberated for a few minutes if we're gonna do another bush camp, but we decided to push on. Rudi gave me 2l more and we were off. This would be his last donation as he too was sterting to get concerned about fuel (by this time i already took 10l from him).

Throughout all this fuel troubles, we had a awesome ride! All DS rides can wish for... from sand paths to river crossings, to rocky climbs, to river beds. Dreamy!!

Here is some photos of that afternoon.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 07, 2010, 10:48:21 am
... and as per the Ten fuel requirements, another 20km or so and the fuel was done. We caught glimpses of the Kariba lake before i rad out of fuel so we knew we weren't to far from our destination. But the sun was down, night crept out of the long shadows cast by the trees.

The Ten was empty and the AT was running low. So for the second time on the trip we took out the tow cable (remember Gobabis), connected it to the twin and we made slow progress towards Siavonga. This time around, however, the towing was done in deep sand and we really struggled to make progress. We came to an uphill and suddenly there was not enough power or traction to get the Ten any further.

We knew Siavonga was about 10km away... so for the first time in the trip we decided to split up. Rudi would ride towards Siavonga to get me some fuel.

I was now alone in the bush, it was dark, i was tired, hungry, thirsty and my cigarettes was finished. The ten was parked halfway up a sand inclide. I just took off my gear and lied down on the side of the road... catching some rest.

In true Zambian fassion, within 10 minutes i had a crowd of about 20 people sitting on the other side of the road, just looking at me, whispering and laughing. As the minutes passed and with some return smiles and frienly gestures, the kids got more comfortable and moved closed until i tried to communicate with one of them. Everyone laughed at me, i laughed back. There was no way of understanding eachother. No one speaks english and this area is one of the lowers educated areas in Zambia.

Pretty soon the leader of the settlement approached me with about 3 adults. Through more gestures they offered to help me push the bike towards their settlement about 300m further. When we got there i was again supprised by their generosity and friendlyness. That brought out a canvas for me to sit on, got me a pachet of cigarettes, sorted me out with some Gin tot packs and water.

We sat there, me, the leader, his sons some neighbours sitting in a circle and 20 kids all around us, wanting to check out whats going on. The stars was out in full, Rudi was nowhere to be seen, but i was enjoying this moment, alone with the people of Zambia.

At some stage i got one of the kids to put on my boots, another to check out the armour suit, put some of the kids on the bike... it was very entertaining and they were loving it.

It must have been an hour and a half before rudi returned. We put some fuel in the Ten and rode of to Siavonga. Hopefulle this would be our last stretch. I had cold beer, steak, shower and a comfortable bed in mind...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Panjo on October 07, 2010, 02:29:19 pm
More More  We Want More!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Footloose on October 08, 2010, 05:31:52 pm
True adventure riding
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: nu11 on October 11, 2010, 02:36:34 pm
Looks to me like it was that time of the month for the Super... More pics please...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 11, 2010, 05:44:16 pm
so hope all had an awesome weekend....gotta get my head off bussiness and onto Zambia...

so i had mentioned before my gps had some hiccups. so as i set off in search of fuel i had saved harold's location as it was getting dark and i dont want to loose him here in the darkest if central africa... leaving was a hard choice to make butt we thought it was the right one. my fuel was also very low and my thoughts were really fuc*ing with my head. never split up!! and not now as nite was falling, i knew that my gps was not 100% so i was chasing the last of the sun trying to remember the route and not run into a goat or cow or little child as we were entering civilization again well an african one that is. smoke from the roadside fires and all.

so back to the route, have to remember about 5 kms then right, 3 more then left. shit getting dark no sign of siavonga or any bloody town. how much fuel do i have? can i go another 10 kms? why does no one understand the words PETROL???

left at big boabab with sign to sandy beach. chasing the sun then after 4 kms big sign in english Boabab lodge. stop still half hrs of light left.

heart is suddenly filled with some joy. there i meet an older english woman that says town is still 20kms away and there is no fuel in the actual town... great i am now royally screwed. so thanks again to the warmth of africa, cause after telling her our story of our route and where my friend is stranded without fuel she says i must come in and see if there is no fuel maybe just lying around as this place belongs to her brother and all the vehicles run off diesel....

so luckily in the boatshed we find maybe 10 litres of juice. 2 stroke??? well hope not. so we pour into my tank. she refuses any payment from me and even arranges our accomadation  with Herman the german at sandy bay as they are not officially open to the public yet... so i promise to come back the following day for a cuppa tea and a chat and off i go again...

now to find harold, my bloody gps doesn't even show him under locations so i just try to backtrack and start retracing my ride... now i am giving it gas as the sun is gone and light is fading fast. every single path looks the same retrace taking my kms left right no left FUC* 10kms further and it is dark... okay after almost falling at speed i stop get off my bike and just breath for a minute to relax as my adrenalin is slightly high.. okay rudi just chill and go slow you will find him. in the darkness your fears gets amplified, the terrain loooks the bloody same and the shadows jump at you. 5 kms further and that little dry river i do recall, cool this is the right track. slowly does is and another 15 mins pass hooray a bunch of people in the middle of the road. and one red lady. where is harold. shit he is drinking and singing songs with his new friends. i am pumped and relieved, really relieved. 
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 11, 2010, 06:03:26 pm
so after having a swigg of brandy from my own stash to calm my nerves, we start retrieving fuel for the red lady. well we do 2 litres, cause now i dont know how much i have and or how much i had before i got fuel. so basically still a problem butt a small one.

i was battling to get harold away from his new friends,maybe he had too much of the gin tots or he had one of the ladies in his eye. maybe my adrenalin was still too high.i dont know.now i am stinking, sweaty, tired and i told harold about the beds for tonite... so that got his attention.. o and the 2 bloody steaks and cold beer that was waiting.i think it was that.so off we went again for 20 kms then nothing.

damn i was now tired butt containing and harold a bit pissed of at his red girl.so 2 more litres. and no start. you see it was always a bit deal to get fuel back to those now dry carbs... so out comes the tow cable again, again on sand trying to pull start her till she fuelled her carbs. and off again this time the roads were familiar and the big boabab. please turn right to the sandy beach lodge 2 kms more.... yeah almost....

so there we finally arrive. and there is herman and he has bungalows at a good rate and he knows we are coming and he has our steaks almost ready and whole fridge of COLD beers. WOW and the world cup final is starting in 30 mins. wtf we were sent here to our own little heaven. o and real beds and beer...

now to try and even explain our emotions is futile. 
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 11, 2010, 06:14:14 pm
to give you an idea of going from pic 795 and 803  heaven in the last 3 pics.

so now we will rest. and rest we did. here harold will tell you more
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Rynet on October 12, 2010, 11:28:42 am
Lovely pics thanks Tour  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gee S on October 12, 2010, 08:34:06 pm
Great RR! Thanks :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 16, 2010, 08:31:20 am
Yup... when we arrived at Herman Ze German the harshness of the previous five days was washed away with several windhoek lagers, rear t-bone steak and fruit salad with icecream. All of ths served in a beautiful beach bar - waves breaking at our feet. Bliss

Out of respect for our 'bottom road' accomplishment Herman gave rudi and i our own rooms. Warm showers, comfortable beds, beautifull scenery. Siavonga, we're arrived!

This would be our home for the next three nights.

The first morning i woke up to the familliar sound of capenta fishing riggs' diesel engines slogging away, hundreds of them placed in a grid system over the Kariba lake. I knew rudi would not be up for at least another two hours, so i took a stroll.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 16, 2010, 09:01:21 am
Following a trend of spectacular sunrises, this one did not dissapoint.

After about an hour of scouting around Tour rose from his coma. We had a couple of espressos and two full english breakfasts each. On this trip, if there is any form of luxury, we'll take it!

After doing some bike maintenance, tyre pressure, oil, chain and sprockets etc Tour went for a stroll. He returned after about half an hour with that silly smile, one only a 5 year old with a new toy can produce. He found a yacht waiting to be assembled. And would you know it, Tour also happens to be an excellent yachtsman. So this was to be our activity for the day... assemble the yacht and see if we can cruise around.

It turned out to be a useless excersise as the yacht we had our eyes on was in a bit of a bad state. Sails were missing, some cabling gone and the hull looked dodgy. Then we spotted the little sail boat bobbing around about 50m from the shore. After 20 minutes of very persuasive negotiating, rudi and i was on that boat. And after about 30 minutes of rigging we were off. Richard, one of the hosts at Ze German's place, came wih for his first experience on the Kariba lake. Actually, except for hoby cat experience when i was still very young, it was my first propper sailing experience.

On the Kariba, sailin
(Check out Rudi's Captain's pose)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 18, 2010, 09:11:47 pm
hi doggs

well as moloko put it when the opportunity arises for luxury we will take it and this was one of those spots that was just perfect in every way. waking up walking 3 meters and then diving into fresh kariba water is the bomb. no need for hot showers as you just take the soap and go for a swim this was my ritual every mornin.

for breakfast there was great espresso and a fatty  :mwink: wot a way to just be. dont know if it was because of the last 5 days or just a great friend and scenery. we had a blast. sailing was my life for 7 years and when i saw that little boat i new that we just had to get on it.herman was reluctant at first but he is a true african and said we can go play. exstacy is a drug but you can get that high without it...so that is where we were. day one was just cruising around a bit as we didnt have all of the rigging but the next day we made a plan and  rigged the main sail and went for a full days' sailing around to some of the islands and towards zimbabwe side. we felt like pirates goin to raid the unknown islands of their treasures.

we had decided that that little spot will see us again. maybe next time we will spend more time on a sailing holiday just cruising the great lake kariba. definately a good way to experience the lake.everyday the wind was nice and lite and also constant.

after 3 days of heaven of eating kapenta,drinking windhoek and feeling like pirates we knew that we were still not even halfway into our trip but alas we had to get goin cause so much adventure was still awaiting the two of us, so we decided that we should set off in our direction of travel but first we had to finish off here. we arranged to take care of our bill and fuel was also arranged as we had none so the next day we were off but first we had to stop at the boabab lodge where the 2 english woman had given us fuel a few days before.so first a nice cuppa tea and biscuits and a chat. really nice people there just sooo relaxed and doin there thing.so after the nice formallities we were really off and on the road again.

glad it was daylight this time as there was a lot to see as this area was really the only place where we could see the lake as the last 270kms it was never really visible to us.so after 20 kms we hit the illusive ciavonga town. this place was really cool and a must see but we hadn't really spent much time here as we were late after our chat with the british/zambian woman. we fueled up and met some chinese people that were working there and hit the road....

we were on the road again cuising on tar and just lovin the new scenery. it was wierd from bein in the bush to cruising on this perfect road with not a car in sight.we were as free as can be just two mates in the middle of africa on our bikes.
but africa is a place of mystery to those that look a place of beauty to those that want. with every death something is born and the cycle of life will continue. if tragedy strikes it is only bad at that moment but your lesson or reward will or might only appear at a later stage.

we were not prepared for what lay ahead but mother africa was there keeping a watchful eye on her two sons for the shit was about to rain down by the bucket load....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Marnus on October 18, 2010, 10:12:18 pm
Hahaha... by the bucket load hey :)

Can't wait!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on October 18, 2010, 11:46:31 pm
Wait an see... :o
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Panjo on October 19, 2010, 06:34:22 am
Oh bloody hell. You really have mastered the art of               S U   S     P     E            N               S                   E    !!!!!!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 19, 2010, 09:22:12 am
hey you gotta give a dogg a bone....
This is AFRICA.
it always takes time  :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 19, 2010, 10:34:34 am
About 20 km outside of siavonga i slowed down to pass some animals grazing on the side of the road. The moment i let go of the throttle it suddenly felt like the bike was riding on ice ... i knew the front wheel had gone (blown/fast puncture/valve - i still dont know). The bike started to veer in the direction of the animals so i decided to lean to the left in order not to crash into them.

I knew i was going down - hard. I can stil remember my knee pads and boots ploughing into the tar. I did not pass out but its very dificult to remember everything that was going on.

Anyway, i went from 100 - 0km/h in about 2-3 seconds. As i was lying on the side of the road i did not feel much pain but i knew something majour was wrong. Rudi stopped next to me and helped me take off my helmet and gloves. All good. However, the moment i tried to sit up straight i could feel that my body was just not complying with my request. I felt a massive pain in my hip and i could not move my leg. Addrenaline started to work out and the pain was starting to get to me.

After about half an hour Rudi (aka Red Cross Camel man) flagged down a rav4 that was going in the opposite direction. Some negotiations followed and they agreed to take me to Chirundu Mission hospital (about 1h30minutes away). Then came the biggest pain i've felt in my life (and i've broken many bones, had lots of stitched, been in a few accidents etc). The muschles was getting cold and the adrenaline was out... four people had to pick me up and 'fold' me into the rav4 passenger seat. It was HELL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (but part of the trip... so just another extreme experience)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: funacide on October 19, 2010, 10:46:47 am
Awesome stuff, absolutely loving this report...

Please may we have some more sir? O0 O0 O0 O0 >:D
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 19, 2010, 12:38:31 pm
well the bigger you are the harder they fall

this was not really the experience that we wanted to have but we had no choice in the matter. cows on the right and moloko chasing towards them,,, dumbass and then suddenly hard left, he hits the ground and there is a huge dustcloud. now i am not one to panic but i tell you this was the closest that i have ever come to outright freakin out.

i stopped right next to him not knowing what to do as my first aid course was done 7 years ago and all was long lost. so as to stay calm i just talked to him lying there in pain. now wot??? so first to see if he is okay, he was talking he moved his head so i thought remove helmet. wash his face and find out where is the problem. well if he dies now at least his face was clean  :laughing4:.

so after i saw him moving about i new all was goin to be okay and i was calmer. now we hadn't seen any vehicles for a long while but luckily 3 vehicles stopped with a whole lot of concerned people. 2 trucks and a rav4. first on the list was where to take him. clinic near by or hospital in chirundi. i opted for hospital. so after reclining the seat at harold's request, see he could still think of that so he wasn't goin to die just yet, we lifted him and into the rav he went.

now this was a mad rush of where to? and how to ? so they left and i stayed behind getting the bike on the truck and hitting the road maybe 15 mins after they had left. i was worried to all hell as there my friend was in pain and is the trip over and what now and how bad is it and oh shit how good are these doctors and healthcare here????

we hit the first roadblock and the cop lets us through and says we must hurry. i follow the truck and we drive through this real dodgy looking town of dirty streets and longhaul trucks and i thinking this is not going to plan. we get to the mission hospital and there is NO harold, they left 15 mins before us, so now i really freak out. no phone where is he??this dodgy town, my mate is f@ct and in serious pain, i am at the only hospital and he is not here. and then they appear. they first had to stop at the copshop to get a cop to fill in an accident report. the cops have no cars so you have to take them to the crash site, more on that later...

at the emergency doors he is helped out onto a wheelchair by all. the pain was hectic and i could see it in his face.great here we are and he is in good hands. he gets treated sort of. first i need to by a book so that the doctors can write down all of the observations and all that i can think is shit better harold than me. still my concern was with him and i tried to get him helped out first.

now this cop is pesterring me the whole time. the one they picked up at the copshop before.he wants me to leave harold and take him to the crash site, take the bike to the copshop, write a report and then there is the truck driver too.  now you have to be carefull here. the rav4 driver tells me as he leaves to keep my eyes open and that freaks me out a little. why and for whom?? just for everybody, remember your in africa. he tells me.

so i do that. we go to the station with the bike and the truck driver stands with his hands out, this was expected and fair. the price wasnt. so i paid what i thought fair, he was displeased. tough shit....

now the damn cop. he was more difficult. wanted me to get a taxi and take him to the crashsite so that he could write a report. no report no insurance pay out. what you don't have a car??? well i will give you a report and will not get a taxi. so after a very polite f@k off from me i told him my concern is my friend and he could stick his insurance where the sun dont shine. after i see that my friend is okay i will be back tomorrow to sort this out. so i left again to lookout for harold.

so back at the hospital. harold was in alot of pain and also on the phone with discovery.it was slow goin and he was goin to be there for the nite. so i booked myself into the same room as him and we spent our first nite of many in the hospital.

will leave you now and let moloko tell you more of his side of the tale.  
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tau on October 19, 2010, 01:25:00 pm
tik broer tik
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 19, 2010, 07:28:03 pm
As if angels lead me to this place… Mtendere Mission Hospital (Chirundu, Zambia) was filled with nuns and pro bono medical doctors and funded by Italy – it was a haven in this Zim/Zambian border town chaos.

Within two hours of arriving at the hospital, and after receiving super efficient medical attention (morphine/pethedene /drip/x-rays/urine sample etc), we got the results, ‘fractured pelvis’. In my drug infused happyland it did not sound to serious. All I knew was in a bad condition – I could recognise the damage although I could not feel the pain. Rudi was there every second of the way, sharing in my pain and hospital food. It’s strange how the presence of someone can make you feel that, although things are a bit fucked, all is OK…

Luckily my phone was on roaming and it was charged. I started to notify people back home and the insurance companies of my accident. I have to give credit to Discovery insurance (SOS) who, by the time night fell in Chirundu, assured me that they’ll come fetch me at the hospital by 13h00 the next day.

Some photos:

(If it was not for the protective gear i would be much worse off!!!)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Slaaiblaar on October 19, 2010, 07:43:42 pm
Clad you made it- to tell the story.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Marnus on October 19, 2010, 08:03:52 pm
Agreed!  That hip looks Yamaha blue  :-\
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gat Slag on October 19, 2010, 08:55:52 pm
Eina f*kkit!   :o
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: kwagga-sakkie on October 19, 2010, 09:22:09 pm
Eishh ???I was just getting into it and start planning a trip to Malawi. This is real nice. Now you're spoiling it. This type of trip is adventure riding.Well done. Sorry about the fall. So what happened next?
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on October 19, 2010, 09:34:15 pm
What do you mean "what happened next?" I guess farting was painful from now on  ::)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Moloko on October 20, 2010, 09:15:39 am
The next day (15 July 2010) I woke up with massive pain… the worst was over I thought.

While I was unable to leave by bed, rudi was operating the Chirundu crowd including the police, doctors, farmers (who later helped to transport the bike back from Zambia to SA). Rudi went into Red cross camel man mode. The fact that the bike was already at the chirundu police station by the time I arrived there shows how quickly rudi can organise people (or get them to do/commit to things).

Anyway, back to the pain…

As scheduled, SOS emergency services picked me up from chirundu. The 3h30min drive from Chirundu to Lusaka went by in a blur as I was drugged to the max. The ambulance arrived in Lusaka at about 14h00 that afternoon. I booked in and the nurses said the orthopaedic surgeon will be with me before 16h00 – he had to confirm my medical condition before Discovery would send out an air ambulance to fetch me.

So time just kept ticking away. It felt like I was sitting in prison waiting to be released - the surgeon only arrived at about 19h00 that evening and guess what; he confirmed that I had a pelvis break. But he also ordered additional x-rays of my knee and back. The only problem  - the hospital in Lusaka do not have an x-ray machine not do they have any ambulances or any transport for patients.  So the nurse came up with a great idea ‘why don’t your friend take you to the university hospital  on his bike. They’ve got an x-ray machine there’. Imagine how ridiculous that idea was…

So about at about 22h00 I drifted to a pethidene induced deep sleep. Obviously, there would not be any more activities that day… But, would you beleive it, at 23h00 a nurse woke me and told me they organised a taxi without seats in the back. I could not believe this!! Drugged up, half asleep and in massive pain. I now had to be loaded onto a stretcher, carried to the makeshift ambulance, transported about 5 km to the university hospital via badly damaged and potholed road, offloaded at the hospital. Pain and confusion!!!

We arrived at the university hospital. The driver, with some assistance from the hospital staff, offloaded me from the ‘ambulance’ and put me on the sidewalk in front of the hospital. Some administrative staff came outside and requested I pay an upfront fee to use their x-ray equipment. Now I’m lying there with only my hospital robe on, on a stretcher  - I had nothing on me and the guy could see that. So the admin staff and taxi drivers went inside the hospital to negotiate. For the next hour I would be lying outside the hospital on the pavement in the middle of Lusaka. Crazy times.

Time passed, got the x-rays – there was no structural damage to back or knee… hurrah!!!

Back at the hospital the surgeon notified discovery insurance that the damage was to the pelvis break only. They were just about to authorise my airlift from Lusaka when another patient took up his spot beside me. He was bitten by a lion; he was their new priority so another day in Zambia loomed for me.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 20, 2010, 11:32:09 am
Fark me - this is Rambo type stuff :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: funacide on October 20, 2010, 11:58:33 am
Awesome read, please keep it coming...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gat Slag on October 20, 2010, 02:23:13 pm
Kan dit nie glo nie...  leeubyt van alle dinge... gripping stuff!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 21, 2010, 02:58:56 pm
yeah so while rambo was lying on the street corner waiting for x rays so that some machine can tell him what he already knows, that he needs to go home and get fixed... i was drinking beer at the lusaka backpackers with the local hotties and bussiness okes, am now connected... :mwink:

also what moloko didnt tell you was that on arrival at the lusaka hospital he had to wait for someone to help for 6 hrs. damn guy with the lion bite wasn t even gonna die!! :laughing4: so i had a chat with the lion's dinner snack. seems he is a pro hunter and his american client wounded the lion and the hunter went after it when the lion attacked him and bit him on the upper leg. typical amerikaners... so the hunter was okay and in good spirit. hope he got a big tip from the americano.

on a more serious note, these next few days was a bit odd, the attention that he got from the hospital was not the fastest and a few times i had to ask for more drugs. for him obviously...moloko was on the phone to discovery alot during the days there to get him back to SA. now we realised that they had to make sure that he was really in need of a strecher and had to be flown home. they had him on a private plane with doctors.but i tell you it felt like a hell of a long time to get him out of there. not knowing if today is the day or if it will be happening at all.very frustrating when these things are out of your hands.

after the dealing with discovery to get him home and feeling helpless i think they did a great job and really need some recognition. some free advise DONT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT IT!!!

now being by his bedside waiting, all of the family at home got to here about moloko's ordeal. so now it was also time to have a chat man to man and it went like this"...

Rudi - "hey harold ek het iets om te se"
harold - "wat?"
rudi - "wel daar is nog 3 weke oor en ons is nou eers halfpad"
harold - "ja ek weet dit suck bees ballas"
rudi  - "ek hoop nie jy gaan kwaad wees nie maar ek gaan maar aanhou met die trip"
harold - "ja wel ek sal jou bliksem as jy nou direk huistoe ry. wat gan jy by die huis doen? vir my kyk terwyl ek vir 6 weke in my bed le?"

what a true friend he is. he understood and said that he would also do the same and to continue the trip.as i had nothing to do with planning and our intended route as it was never a concern or worry for me as long as we ride..well now it was

Rudi - "so harold umm waarna toe nou??? ek het nnie n clue nie."
harold - "hahaha dis fokken snaaks. kry my map boek dan wys ek jou gou."
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gat Slag on October 21, 2010, 04:42:13 pm
 :thumleft: f0k ek lees nou lekker...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Tankwa on October 21, 2010, 08:18:11 pm
:thumleft: f0k ek lees nou lekker...

+1. Lekker stuff die
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Would I? on October 21, 2010, 09:21:59 pm
Glad you are still ok to write this report.  :o :o :o

Hectic stuffff....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: zetman on October 21, 2010, 09:27:44 pm
Fokkit man dis soos ñ sepie elke keer net ñ lekker angsvolle stuk en dan wag ons weer in spanning vir di vlgne episode
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Oupa Foe-rie on October 21, 2010, 09:29:08 pm
Bliksem ............ nog n lekker Vasbyt toer in Afrika ........ :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Slaaiblaar on October 21, 2010, 09:36:22 pm
Los nou die bier uit die naweek en skryf nou die ding klaar!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 21, 2010, 10:19:57 pm
sorry vir die wag ma met 2 ouens wat skryf vat dinge ma tyd...

so n teaser... dis nou eers halfpad. nog 3 weke oor met heelwat wat kom.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: JMOL on October 24, 2010, 08:08:09 am
Net as jy dink dit ales kan nie op 'n trip gebeur nie, dan kom jul met nog goeters uit!!

Gelukkig was dit nie 'n leeu of olifant wat jul in die hospitaal laat beland het nie  :biggrin:

Uistekende RR
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 09:30:32 pm
Well my buddy moloko is a little better now which means that he is back at work and overloaded with catching up. it also means that he ain't got time to write now as  umm well his lady is keeping him busy...  >:D no not the red one. so we will continue the story a little different from now on, well solo...

so just before he is to fly out of lusaka we chat and i get some info on the intended route and i also take his paper map. he sort of shows me the general direction and some don't miss this and do miss that type of places. i also use his cell phone one last time and i call home. not married so my loved one is my sister, she is slightly stressed but she knows me and doesnt even try to convince me to come home. we chat for an hour and i tell her that i am on my way home but it will still take me 3 more weeks. she laughs and says to enjoy and be safe. that done so back to moloko. now we were emotional. his trip is done and i am going on my own from here without my buddy with whom i had grown tight after experiencing such cool things that can not be explained. oh and some things never revealed  :mwink: wot happens in Zambia stays in zambia.

so the ambulance arrives and the proses starts. now he cannot be moved very easily just too much pain so first thing is first and here comes the drugs. he gets a cocktail of who knows what and soon he is smiling.so they strap him down and into the ambulance he goes. the door closes and they go....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 10:16:02 pm
now i get back on my bike and go to the backpackers. not leaving just yet as it is late afternoon. so riding the 3kms to the backpackers i am filled with a feeling of fear, loneliness and something that you feel when a friend dies and you are alone. so i do what has to be done and i get drunk at the bar and talk kak to the young british packpackers and some of the local business okes.

so the next morning i get up and that damn feeling is still there, so i get goin quickly in a north east direction on the main highway. crazy traffic all over lusaka keeps my mind focused on the job at hand and the fear at bay. i dont know how far i am goin or where i will sleep tonite, only that i must move. as i get out of town and see the beauty around me i really miss harold. shit so far to go and no harry. we were in tune as a team and nothing could stop us but that damn road outside of ciavonga did. fear was my companion that first day. you know what if??? i fall, i breakdown, i get robbed or mugged or i die here and no one will know where i lie. shit it really is ridiculous how our mind can get to us when we are not in our comfort zone anymore. but i tell myself i know these feelings, i had been travelling on my own for years and there is a reason i do that out of my own free will. so i chill out a bit and i have comfort in the phat girl knowing she will get me home. africa twin rock solid.

there is beauty everywhere but for 3 days it is not cool, found out on my return that harold had for 3 days thought that i was there at his side all along. just shows the energy you share with some people. anyway after the first day i do some 500km i think and sleep at a lodge type of place. next day a bit better but not really and i leave zambia with a funny feeling and i enter malawi. where ever i stop for fuel or food there are always stairs and questions of why are you alone? so i think i will try get off the main roads again and find some gravel. so north i go towards livingstonia. a long stretch with a heavy heart. but nice scenery and that cheers me up a bit. malawi is so much diferent to zambia just sooo many people and i am weary of everyone, luckily this doesnt last forever.but it does for a few more days. every one told me you will love malawi it is the best and blah blah blah, well didn't feel it sorry, just so many people i wanted some space.

so north i went and the kms flew by. met this guy from serbia on a bike, one that you peddle. he started from joburg and on to where i cant remember so we had a chat and off again.he also cycled to china from serbia and another big trip somewhere else. next some forestry area beautiful scenery to keep my thoughts busy. was getting dark soon so i pulled into mzuzu. again an overpriced lodge. no camping. the second nite on my own and still feeling funny. so i checked out the map and made dinner. it rained aswell. i tried to trust my feeling and changed direction. forget livingstonia and head east towards the lake only 50 kms. maybe the great expance of water will make me feel better. so of to bed i go.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 10:23:58 pm
some photos in zambia, no harold
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 10:29:14 pm
First day in malawi
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 11:01:23 pm
next day wake up to rain but its okay 50kms then to nkatha bay. have heard loads about it so must be nice. now this is day 3. get goin after breaky. get wet but at least feeling better. the road winds through to nkata bay and the scenery is amazing lots of hills and big trees all over. almost tropical. didnt stop for photos, should of. the people look almost friendlier must be that my mood is changing with the anticipation of lake malawi. this is what we had come for. wished harold was here to see this.the vibe getting into nkatha was nice, felt touristy. so i cruised down into town and through a market. stopped on a hill and just took in the scenery, very picturesque, but still didnt feel it so it was early and off i went again driving down the lake towards, well i just didnt know just down. on leaving nkata i got fuel as i had no idea where i would get again.

that area is just so amazing. lots of small villages and kids off to school. so i stop at a small market and get some supplies. bread ,fish and tomatoes. was a funny place. you could see that tourism was here and had spoilt it a bit, well after zambia that was my feeling. the next few hours was spent cruisin slowly and looking at the scenery. wow is all i can say on that. would love to spend time there exploring the forests but now was not the time. i was hungry.
so pulled into a campsite with no one there got a beer and chilled next to the lake having lunch. was starting to relax and getting into things again but not 100% just yet.this lake is awesome and there are some cool spots along it but i had to continue down some more. passed some plantations of rubber trees with guys selling rubber balls next to the road. also mice on a stick, must say never tried that. now as you would know that lake is BIG. you ride and the scenery changes on the right but stays water on the left, after e few 100kms you pass a lot of different places sugar cane plantations, majestic mountains loads of villages and loads of people. you cannot stop with out people surrounding you. malawi is the most densely populated country in southern africa, i think. well it felt like that.so after many miles and many stops the day was drawing to an end with senga bay in sight, i knew that would be my place of rest. so found a place called "Cool Runnings" and it felt right, so pulled in. this would be it for a day or 2. some rest bike prep and exploring the area.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 11:08:58 pm
beauty all over and spirits climbing
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 28, 2010, 11:14:43 pm
first real contact with the lake and spectacular it was.warm water and clear like they said. the north is also more tropical looking with forests and white beaches. a contrast to lake kariba. still missing harold, but the song must go on...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on October 29, 2010, 01:42:02 am
Classic stuff !!  Keep it coming...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 29, 2010, 12:04:24 pm
so after a nice cup of nutty mzuzu coffee and an awesome swim to wake up it was time to do some maintenance and to see what senga has to offer.
well the maintenance on the africa twin was almost a non affair. so a look over. one thing did bother me was my chain and sprockets. seems like i did too many kms before the trip on them. the chain started making a cluck sound over the last few 100 kms, so some more lube was applied and it was better but still a big enough concern to have me take a look. looks like the swingarm protector had now vanished and was hitting on the bare metal. no worries out comes the cableties, superglue and pliers. stuck in on and problem solved, still there today  :thumleft:

so now to have a look around. cruised around for a few hours looking for non touristy places, found a few and some disused old buildings and villages. my thoughts are still that tourism is too much here and that white man equals dollar is too rife here. stop to get some food at a market.  goats'meat and potato wedges it is.so pack it and go looking for a cool spot for lunch. nice spot next too the lake. things are looking up and the spirit is climbing.

so spent the rest of the day exploring the surrounding area and chilling at cool runnings with some of the backpackers and score some malawi gold from one of the dudes. i am relaxing a lot more but still missing my friend, well will always be thinking of him but my time backpacking and travelling solo was coming back and times were getting better...  O0
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 29, 2010, 12:21:12 pm
so cool running and surrounds
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 29, 2010, 12:26:51 pm
the lunch spot
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on October 29, 2010, 12:33:09 pm
and exploring the rural area, was wierd got friendly faces and waves and some really rude. luckily not many. think that the tourist trail didn't really pass here as i was cruisin next to farm fields and tracks looking for more spots at the lake. was really cool as i felt like an explorer in my own little way.  :ricky: not a lot of english here thought.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Gat Slag on October 29, 2010, 01:09:28 pm
Great pics!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Scrat on October 29, 2010, 01:55:27 pm
 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

I is speechless!! GREAT RR!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: fat b on October 30, 2010, 10:53:41 am
Flippen nice RR !
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Tankwa on November 01, 2010, 03:33:20 pm
Nice one tour, waiting for the rest. Hooked !!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: funacide on November 01, 2010, 10:06:21 pm
Awesome stuff, really enjoying this. Keep it coming please.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 05:21:58 pm
Thanx for all the encouragement
Sorry for not writing earlier but had a great weekend at the Skazi trance party so had to get to bed early the last 2 days :mwink:

back to malawi then. so after some exploring and down time at cool runnings it was time to move on.i had gone through lots of changes during this trip and one of them is getting more aware and in tune with surroundings and relying on feeling as your guide rather than the map.and feeling said that it was time to go. so got some fuel and off towards cape maclear it was. on the way there i stopped for a smoke and some photos when these 2 guys came running over demanding money. now this was the first time that i felt a bit uneasy. so i got a bit hard assed and said NO!! and started getting ready to go again. i travelled with a panga and this time i was eyeing it a bit. luckily they didnt persue their request too much so calmly i got on my bony and ducked. damn i am just not mad about malawi. too many tourists i think.probably also the fact that harold isnt around too. o well see what the next place brings...

so get into cape maclear and find a little dry village that doesnt look too inviting so i drive through the dusty streets and almost get run over by a group of 4x4's leaving the joint and i am thinking fuct this place doesn't look too cool. so i spot a place called fat monkey. have heard about it before and thought well pull in. now what i found here was something different.
pull in and this bloke comes strolling over with a big smile and gives me a piece of wood. for your sidestand he says. says he is Jeff and bids me welcome. we like the bikers here he says. cool sounds alright. have a bit of a chat and off he goes. set up camp and check the place out. go for a beer at the bar and find some travellers and feel weird and out of place between westerners. might of been the joint from before  :ricky:

stroll to the lake and it feels pretty cool. nice water and lots of people, local and tourists. so just chill out and relax a bit. always weird those first few hours till you relax...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 05:26:37 pm
on the way there and then the sunset. every nite you are blessed with this sight of omg wow
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 05:47:31 pm
what was supposed to be a day or 2 turned into 5 or 6 days of loving it. changed my whole outlook on malawi (well most if it tho). met some cool overlanders and a dude on a bicycle. fell in love with a chick called valentina from uruguay (shame she had a boyfriend at home) and went snorkelling in an aquarium. jeff the owner and his wife let me stay for free and went sailing on their dinghy for 5 days. met some cool local dudes and loved the malawi cob. this place turned out to be a highlite of the journey in so many ways. still missed my mate harold but the solo journey had started and the last of the shackles of fear had come loose and i was on top of the world. was a nice changing point.

the time here can not be written about in too much detail. if we meet i will tell it and relive the moments again ...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 05:51:58 pm
Some of the fish that was devoured with liters of beer. :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 06:02:49 pm
fat monkeys can be recommended to all and the owners are just super cool. walking around the village is just soo cool and you can get anything there. went out to the island for a snorkel and the fish was amazing. was told the the breeders of exotic fish have to release some into the lake and you see loads of colours there. fish eagles aswell that roam the sky. the locals are pretty cool and also out for a buck but dont hassle you. had some food at local restaurants and you eat like a king for not too much.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 06:10:08 pm
just wanna get up and go there again now but first gotta get my improved and race ready africa twin back.
maybe soon? anyone  reading know when?  :thumleft:
this is a personal joke... :imaposer:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on November 03, 2010, 06:12:23 pm
 was just having a quick look...I promise! :lamer:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 06:25:11 pm
hahaha hey superfoxi. you da man am laughing my tits off now. :laughing4:
but first some more pics
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 08:39:39 pm
Like i said 5 days turned into 6 and the time had come to go.it was sad cause i had made some awesome people and had visited an awesome place. fat monkeys in cape maclear has a really cool laidback vibe and is great for a holiday within a holiday.but alas time was ticking and the road lay ahead.

down south homeward bound was the mission but the journey was still far. this time when i left the fear was not my companion. hoorah. so for the first leg of the day i wanted to see the end of the great lake malawi or lago niassa (moz side).so again with no end in sight i went looking and along the way drove into some coves to look and some hills to see and finally reached the end of the lake. from there it turned into a river and followed that for a while. through some spectacular terrain with still lots of people everywhere. one or 2 towns later some police check points, a little fishmarket and chat with the locals and so the day went.

now i was really enjoying malawi. stopping when the time was right and riding when needed.the day passed nice and slowly as the terrain changed and the miles crawled by. only did 80 km/h general speed so you see everything. as sunset time was nearing i calculated that i will be able to reach Zomba. a pretty little town full of old colonial buildings and the remnants of an era gone by. a friend told me to pass here and check out the plato. so checked into an overpriced lodge putting up a tent. was the cheapest i could find @ $7 us. malawi is not cheap anymore. so cruised around and went to a bar and had my first walky talky (chicken heads and feet) experience. only had the walky though. was rather nice and off to bed rather early.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 08:45:00 pm
pics near the end of the lake and my tent in zomba at anne's lodge
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 08:58:23 pm
next morning i was on my way to mount mulanje but it was only less than 200km away so i thought lets go and have a look at this plato but wasn t too excited but something did pull me in that direction so i followed the road up.i thought that zomba was nice and pretty but not much more...

boy was i wrong :bueller: so early morning i go up this pretty road and into the most amazing forest almost semi tropical. big trees and green all over. up the plato and come ocross a little lake.the guards come running over and i gotta pay like R1 to park there. no worries as it is amazing. but i want some privacy in this eden so we chat i go of to see what else ie around...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 09:11:52 pm
not too much further i turn off into this little dirt track for like 150m and get to the little stream in the last pic.so i stop and just zen out in this little eden in paradice. hey so after a few tokes i cruise further to see where the roads lead.this plato is lush and green with lots of little jeep tracks and forestry roads. i pass a few hikers with their guides and am stoked that i am on the bony and just cruisen through.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 09:23:49 pm
so after this i turn into a smaller path and see a silhouette of a gun and i just think shit!!! hope those dudes are cool or i am walking out. so i stop we chat and these guys are rangers patrolling the area for poachers. so the ranger with the old 3 0 3 tells me to follow his directions and i will get to the top and will be able to see down the plato.now at this stage i am freaking out at this totally cool place and cant believe my luck. this is soo much different to the dry malawi that i have passed till now, like i am in a fairytale world.feels like i had come across a gem of a place. little dirt roads and jeep track. was a little nervous cruisin with the big girl fully loaded and slightly stoned.. O0
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 09:30:17 pm
then like i was sent here by Mr Haille selassie himself.... :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 09:42:43 pm
so now in total extacy i couldn t turn around and head off on the road again as this place was just too cool.so up i went. the road was tricky at times but i thought i would not be back soon so i went up. the fear of putting the bike on her side was there but i had to see. so at the top i was sweating a lot. got there and then turned around to see what else was there. spoke to some guys selling pretty stones near the cliff face. but stones isnt my thing and i headed down again
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 09:57:53 pm
but going down was a bit harder than going up. i was nervous so i stopped and took a few pics along the way and another puff. maybe that was what made me nervous :laughing4:.
nevertheless this zomba plato was another high lite for me. and to think i almost missed out on it.from town it looks like a huge hill /mountain but up there it was a little place where i had no idea what to expect and was amazed by the beauty of the forest and the feeling of adventure trying to get to the next places. next time around i think a few days bushcamping would be in order  :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 03, 2010, 10:04:16 pm
so from here i hit the road again. i was in nirvana and on my way to mount mulanje.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Pistol on November 04, 2010, 07:02:39 am
what was supposed to be a day or 2 turned into 5 or 6 days of loving it. changed my whole outlook on malawi

Can relate to this - did the same earlier this year, and stayed there for 10 days!! Jeff and his wife really good people :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 08:46:26 pm
hey pistol you know that fat monkeys has a cool vibe thanx to jeff and his missus. they give it that robenson crusso feel  :3some:

so got into mount mulanje before dark by accident as of where to stay wasn t all to clear. stayed the nite met some cool people and chilled by the fire. next morning i decided to not go for a hike as the next destination was unclear to me and i felt that the zomba mountain experience couldn t be beat.

now as i said way before when harold was in the hospital. he did all the research and i just followed suite. so all i new was to follow the map. so every day i would try and get some info on the next day or two. but my next leg was a blank in every way possible. no one knows this area as it is not really touristy. i new that i should be out of malawi by the end of the day cause it was only 240 kms. well well only 240...

so thanx to that feeling in tune with mother africa i set off fairly early and went throught some stunning scenery. lots of tea fields and farming and the mountain on the left. next stop tyolo. then go directly south to bangalo and into mozambique. easy...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 09:21:59 pm
well all the way to tyolo was done really slowly as there was loads of people all over. cool scenery of peanuts and tea farming. i was in heaven and nothing could stop this cool vibe. so at tyolo i put in my last bit of fuel and got some directions to bangula. i try to leave every country with none of that currency left over so i bought some supplies from roadside stalls and had lots of chats with the local dudes. all think that i am crazy for being on my own and/or do i work for the government.and after seeing that i am a friendly whitey the next one obviously is do i have work for them in south africa or my brother/sister lives in joburg.  :laughing4:

so on this road south i find the real malawi without the tourists and real friendly people that just want to see their photo on the camera. people wave and some of those chicks are pretty too. :mwink: it was really hot so halfway through i stop at a pump and suddenly i am surrounded by kids and a few adults. i spend some time there chilling out talking and taking photos. they show me how they make bricks with mud and it was a really cool time not being pestered like at the tourist holes. so i wet my gear with the pump and this sets them into stitches. i am offered a young wife but decline the nice offer due to the fact that i have no helmet for her...we say goodbye and for half a km the kids are still running after me.

now this was the malawi that i wanted to see and i was blessed to have luckily found it. thanx harold for pointing it out. so further on while cruisin on in bliss i meet a biker named richard and i ask how far. he says maybe an hour to the river. river? now i have heard something like this and he says not to worry cause there is boats and tells me the price. now i have heard about it but the SAVE river is the one that exits lake malawi if i am not mistaken...so i forget about It and cruise on. so every now and then i would stop and meet some people and enjoy the area. now i know this southern africa has been well travelled for many decades but there i felt like one of only a few to have witnessed this place. so after a while i start to drop down a slight plato to a flat expanse of land and see the water miles ahead. the kilometers travelled and the paper map and gps are not working in unison. at some stage i am in mozambique but no borders yet. so i get a slight feeling of being lost. but not to worry cause i am in africa so i know where i am.  :laughing4:

the area had become more and more rural and i can feel it. i am down south in the bottom of malawi or is it mozambique. the people are not speaking portugeuse just yet so maybe it still is malawi. it is maybe 3 in the afternoon and the paths have no directional markers and i do feel rather small and lost. but i go south.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 09:26:45 pm
near the waterpump
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 09:31:55 pm
the lady in pink was offered to me  but i had to  decline marriage just yet  :biggrin:
and the brick builders
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 09:38:02 pm
getting into more rural area and i little bit more lost. the communication is none existent but not portuguese...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 09:46:34 pm
nerves a bit high but still calm enough i get to a bridge. yeah  i am there. talk to one of the okes and he tunes me moz on the right and malawi on the left. border 10kms more. cool i am on the right road and all is well. so i cross it and check some hippos and a foot path. clearly there haddent been any cars here for a while.
so a think why all this fuss about boats and shit as this bridge is still strong. must be the road that thins out or something. so i set off some more....
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 09:52:07 pm
oops here are the right ones... :eek7:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 10:03:02 pm
so what happens next i was not ready for in any way. i get greeted by many eyes and many people and many water.... ???
now there is a little story that not many people are aware of but i will let it all out now.
to start off with this is my second africa twin as my first one got swept down a river for 200 meters near sederberg oasis a few winters back, with me still attached to it... :thumleft: just ask gerrit

so to say that i have a natural fear for all things bike and rivercrossing in one sentence is an understatement of note.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 10:18:06 pm
now after seeing water being bucketed out by hand and boats filled to the brim with not even many people onboard i feel a slight slab in my heart and thinking that now it a good time to turn back with my tail between my legs.
before i can get my helmet back on so mister negotiator comes up to me and putts in his first bid sky bloody high as i thought
he would and my natural urge to make a good deal takes over and it starts...

firstly how much weight can this boat take? the big one? he tunes me one ton. i tune him back i think that i will turn around cause there is no way that will hold my bike. and it has started 10 and then 15 mins pass and we shake on 3 us dollars. he smiles and i knew that he was still happy with what he got and i am still scared.

but screw it lets do it and on it went...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 10:23:48 pm
so over we go and prayers were said. luckily the gods were kind that time and we made it across.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 10:29:45 pm
the other side  :ricky:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 04, 2010, 10:41:47 pm
so safely to the otherside and the kids are posing as do the adults. which side looks better from the left or right.  :laughing4:

now it is maybe 16;00 and the border might close at 17;00. I will probably need fuel but dont know how far still to bangula or fuel or the border for that matter...my last money was given to the boatman and time is running out but this is africa after all and she has some more unexpected tricks up her sleave.... :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: funacide on November 04, 2010, 10:52:39 pm
Loving the read and makes me feel like going back to Fat Monkey's and spending some more time just chilling there...

Some really good looking international women at Fat Monkeys...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Pistol on November 05, 2010, 02:49:18 pm
Funacide, I agree, and that bar right on the water that opens at 7 in the morning - R10 for 750ml beer :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 09:04:41 pm
So after getting over the river i know that i have to get going to cross the border. not sure of how far it is i first tried to change some dollars but to no avail. i needed to get some fuel on the black market. super overpriced offcourse. so i dont get fuel and head off towards the border. not sure of the kms or when it closes but i know that it is getting late.

as i leave bangula i spot out the corner of my eye "customs" and i think it a bit odd as the border is between 30 and 60 kms away. but i pull over and check a few officials and a game ranger. so he tunes me in afrikaans to pull into their spot for the nite as it is too far and you really want a whole day ahead of you.

and as it has happened so many times to me on this trip before. africa provides in strange ways. out if no where i was slightly lost and chasing the end of the day and the next minute i am following the ranger to there game farm in the bush. what i find there is 2 awesome people with the heart for africa and giving back what they get from her.

my hosts for the nite are 2 south africans running a game farm that they are rebuilding and also breeding white lions. i spend an great time with great people and get to play with 2 cubs the next morning. i also meet a man that is building an inland port on the river Save. will get to that later,,,

they help me out in so many ways except 1, information on where i am going....they havent been in that direction so cant help, o well it makes it more exciting  :mwink:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 09:11:44 pm
so the little cats.... check that grade A+ beef. i was drooling for some of that.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 09:42:35 pm
so after a really cool wildcat experience it was time to hit the road again.with my heart full of joy i set off again due south hopefully  this will be the day of entering Mozambique. i had wanted to go there to see what it was like now as we were there as a family when i was a lighty in 1992 or 94. it was wild and wanted to see if my memories from many years ago was still accurate today.

changed enough dollars to fill my tank and get some supplies. as i cruise through this area i realise how fortunate my luck was with meeting at the "customs" with the ranger. for one thing it took me a few hours to get to the border and no 2 the scenery was spectacular again and goin faster that 60km/h would of defeated the purpose of being here. while riding in this area on your own you go threw so many emotions it is not even funny. luckily i was stuck on only one emotion and that was complete and utter STOKE. this was just amazing. every day was a new adventure and no matter what happened here it was always alright. almost akuna matata.... O0

though i still wanted my poor friend harold to see and to finish what was essentially his trip that i was now completing.

so entering the last town before the border i go and meet up with the port builder that i had briefly met the nite before. i drop of my bike at his office and get in his bakkie, while cruising threw town we spot 2 bikes. wow the first time since Caprivi strip since i had seen any big bikes. i was overjoyed and we stopped had a chat and they came with us to view this new inland port that was being built. this port was amazing in sooo many ways.

they were planning on sailing up the river in shallow draft vessels to import and export goods to malawi from the coast in Mozambique. this place was unbelievable, if i did not see it i would never of been able to fathom the whole thing in my mind.
it came to our attention that there would be alot of bragging rights while some african leaders were having drinks and one of them had an inland port of this size. :mwink:

note the lion food  :mwink:
note my food :ricky:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 09:49:13 pm
the inland port
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 10:29:40 pm
the 2 bikers had just come from Mozambique side and the info that i got from them was reassuring. they did do another route than that of harolds' planned route but still was good to hear what was going on. it did not entirely prepare me for the coming afternoons' ride.

leaving malawi was prompt and eazy getting into mozambique was slow. you could see from the reception or lack thereof that not too many tourist follow this road. there were 3 guys in military uniform looking serious and i was taken from one shot up building to the next shot up building, was like stepping into a war torn country. well it is one, luckily that was long ago but it was very visible all over. i lived in spain for 7 years and my spanish came to good use here. i wonder how long those other bikers battled through here.folk were friendly but i could not take any photos here.i did not push my luck here so exchanged some dollars and cruised on...

the area was wild and you could see from the reaction of the people that they dont get too many passers by here. it made the experience more amazing. so i stopped at a village or shall i say a few mud huts and bought a few things. but here they spoke another language and not portuguese, very rural. there were signs of people and being new to this country i didn t look at bushcamping here so i cruised on towards the donna anna railroad bridge. the longest rail in africa. 3,7 kms long crossing the zambezi river.

i saw it on the map but could not really believe my eyes when i finely saw it. so after 2 hrs passing a few villages and exiting the really rural area you reach a place called mutarara. then suddenly after following the railway line you come to an amazing site. the donna anna bridge and the mighty zambezi river.to think that the last time i saw this river we were 2 friends enjoying one of our best experiences ever.

so i rode over stopping every now and again for pics. but as the walkway were you ride on is very narrow. every stop was not always enjoyed by the other bridge users  :laughing4:

exiting the other side at vill de sena was chaos. it was getting dark so i started on and drove to a place called caia. there i stayed at a campsite that wasnt operational but had a 2 security guards and one of the guards' wife and child was also there. so my 1st nite in mozambique was spent chillen with da locals around a fire and drinkin the famous dous emme or 2M beer.

i had arrived savely into Mozambique and it was awesome.  O0 
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 10:33:55 pm
donna anna railway bridge. this was really cool seeing the might of the zambezi and crossing it on the bridge
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 10:37:32 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 10:46:19 pm
those okes in the last pics wanted cash to help you down the steps. put the phat girl just slid down on her belly. :imaposer:
sorry no toll fees was paid.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 08, 2010, 10:55:34 pm
a teaser for later.
1 st gravel for dont know how many kms. when i got to it i had to get a pic was really cool but not long lived. gps at that time. with still 4112 kms to go.
the map said only possible with 4 x 4 when raining. so it went and rained when i got to it.  :imaposer:

but that stretch and leaving caia for later. hope you enjoyed it so far as writing it almost puts me back out there.  :ricky:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: funacide on November 08, 2010, 11:25:46 pm
Damn that brings back memories. We did that exact road in 2009 but in the opposite direction. We had to go up the ramp so we gave them 3 Dollars for 3 bikes...

Here is some pics from our trip:




Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Crossed-up on November 09, 2010, 06:41:20 am
Fantastic, Rudi! The stuff of dreams.  I've really enjoyed your trip.  Keep it coming, please.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Diesel & Dust on November 09, 2010, 07:38:16 am
Cool :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Tankwa on November 09, 2010, 11:06:00 am
I am really enjoying your RR. Great adventure  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: oo7 on November 09, 2010, 02:43:31 pm

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: myni on November 09, 2010, 04:21:31 pm
Fantastic!  Can't wait for the end.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Klomper (RIP) on November 09, 2010, 06:28:57 pm
Your story is awesome!!! But your numberplate...now that's something else!  :mwink:

Thanks for sharing, farking cool!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: domstes on November 09, 2010, 08:11:43 pm
Thanks for sharing. Love the RR.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Brakenjan on November 10, 2010, 09:50:54 am
Bliksem, only discovered this RR yesterday (thanks Dabbelou!  :thumleft: ).

Great trip and an even greater attitude! You two rock!!  O0

Thanks for posting!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 10, 2010, 08:48:02 pm
hey funacide. looks like the bridge had been renovated recently. in one of your shots you can still see the bamboo stilts. where they busy last year?

To all the others thanx for the kind words, lets hope we can keep you entertained to the end. to the people that is dreaming of a similar endeavor just do it. this trip had taught me that fear will stop you in your tracks and love will make you go forward. with every step it becomes easier. at this stage in the journey not having harold there was not even a worry. i only wished that he could of seen it all aswell. emotionally i was driven by love every day, for nature, for the people and for africa. it was really a blessing.

enough emo stuff for the day, dont want to bore you too much :3some:

so on leaving caia i hit the first bit of tar for ages and it was really cool. not too bumpy just nice also big forest all around. therefore the pics in the last post. the next destination was beira. harold had planned for us to go offroad again so that is the route that was followed. 200kms of nice roads leading through the forest.

as i turned onto the sandy gravel road towards inhamitanga i got a feeling of desolation no people were visible and no vehicles. i must admit that here i was slightly spooked thinking if something were to happen here it would not be so cool. so i checked my water and food supply and that somehow calmed me a tad. the area looked like a good place for guerilla training or that was the tricks my mind was playing while goin through there. every 45 mins or so i would pass a little village with some life and just curiously cruised by. now i calculated that i should be able to reach beira with enough fuel left to spare but i was very carefull none the less.

so i stopped at a bigger village looking for fuel and only found diesel so decided to leave. started the bike and nothing only a familiar click sound. luckily this sound i new as a loose battery terminal. so there i had to stop and unpack all my gear to get under the seat. now i was drawing a small crowd of maybe 20 people. all friendly and smiles but i new that my cash was also under my seat in see threw bank bags. 2 bags with us dollars in. easy to see for all of the eyes that was now checking my every move. but alas i keep chatting away to these people that do not really  have much. me yapping away in spanish asking questions and trying to make everybody laugh. by this stage i had also answered questions about why i had a big machete strapped to my bike. as was my answer every time was for chopping wood when camping in the bush. and then they ask if i am not afraid of the spirits that roam there. no as my father is a shaman. is my reply. :mwink:
this always gets a good reaction...
 so then with everything of the bike i remove the seat and start fiddling with everything there and i hear one of the bigger guys say "look! deneiro. money!" so i look him in the eyes and say "si es mio" yes it is mine. i have to still get home. and put it in my pocket. and that was that. no asking no mugging just that. still a bit nervous i tightened the terminal started the bike and it fired. so i re packed rather quickly and cruised off after some more chit chat and friendly waves from all. even here in the middle of no where it was still safe even when there were people with not much and me with a hand full of dollars. another lesson of humility learned that day.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: JMOL on November 10, 2010, 09:12:10 pm
Nice - keep it coming
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 10, 2010, 09:12:52 pm
now on the map it read that the last 50kms was for 4x4 only when it rains. so at least a 100kms before dondo the road becomes tricky and i slide around alot so i take it easy and go slow. dont really want to fall here. the skies still look okay with some clouds coming in but not too much. i pass another 2 little villages and then one bigger one that looks like it might house a school and it is kept really nice. as i pass everybody checks me out. the scenery is just awesome and i would love to camp here in the bush for a few days but i need to get home as time is slowly running out and cape town seems like another world far away from here. with beauty all around these big forests i is loving it all.

so an hour later and 50kms to go guess what? the temperature drops and it drizzles a bit. cant really see if it is a big one coming so dont stop for my jacket just yet. the trees are too tall for me to see far enough into the sky. a little later and i know that i have to stop. get the jacket out but dont have the rainproof lining in as it had been hot for the last 5 weeks and it is packed far away. the road gets more sandy and the bike becomes loose under me. 50kms to go and hard rain on its way.  
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 10, 2010, 09:28:19 pm
luckily the muddy terrain changes to sand so the sliding is less.the heavens open up and i really dont want to be stuck in the rain for the next hour or two. seconds later i am wet right through and irritation becomes my new best friend. so after a few minutes i think fuct this shit i want a coffee and a hot plate of food.

so i gas the phat girl and ride her hard. that last 50kms i covered in half an hour. riding her like i was in a race. and it was awesome.i believe that sand must be done fast and then the sliding and wallowing becomes fun. so i get nearer to people and find guys riding their push bikes with 50kg of coal on the back in this heavy sand and get new respect for their lives.

after a while i get into dondo and then towards beira in the sopping rain. what i find is caos of the big city. i find a restuarant near the beach and get some coffee and seafood curry. yum yum

now to think of the next step. 
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 10, 2010, 10:10:21 pm
the city freaks me out a bit. lots of people in a wartorn city. but the vibe is actually really positive and i feel this rather quickly. it is pissing down and will be for the next 2 days accordingly to the waitress that helps me. so with there help i decide to get a room somewhere and the only place where i can find secure parking for my bike is a bit dodgy. a bit more later on why. :mwink:

get a room and use a cable and lock to tye up my bike. then put on some dry clothes and head out by foot and camera in hand. i get a call centre and call home and tell my sister that all is well and to please get hold of harold and to tell him that the trip sucks without him and that he isnt missing anything. was really cool to talk to the family, then time for a beer or two and then some dinner. a steak at the restaurant near the hotel. get chatting to some locals and almost hit the town as there was a really festive vibe. but too much beer too early and not enough energy after the hectic day. so i turned in.

 now my room  :biggrin:

get into my room and decide to rather use my mattress and sleepingbag over the bedding. as i walk to my room rather early i see a lady that looks like a lady of the nite and her client walking down the steps. well it dawned on me right there that this hotel was more of a room per hour type of hotel and this was friday evening. needless to say that i was woken all through the nite by lots of banging and moaning... :laughing4:

i called this place hotel california. where everyone was smiling. so when in beira and you visit hotel savoy please sleep ontop of the covers  :thumleft:

anyway it was amusing and an experience to laugh at. the next day there was a break in the clouds and i thought i should get going so i drove around town abit to see the sights and then headed off towards vilanculos. it was far and the road was rather uneventful. very straight with nice scenery. lots of shot up buildings and what looks like a good place to come and explore in the future. fuel was there but had to wait 2 times for it once no electricity and once the pump was not working. so i bought some dodgy petrol at the side of the road with no problem to the running of the phat girl.

my chain and sprockets had been giving me hassles since lake malawi and was begining to make more noises. so every 100kms i would oil it as my chain lube was long gone. this had kept me from riding very fast even though the roads were good now.so from before beira it was a constant 80 - 90 km/h. got to vilanculos at sunset really tired and thirsty.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Pullaway on November 10, 2010, 11:03:00 pm
Lekke lekke!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: JDT on November 21, 2010, 10:26:41 am
Where's the rest?  :bueller:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Crossed-up on November 22, 2010, 11:06:56 am
C'mon, Rudi.  I know you're out there.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tau on November 22, 2010, 12:08:53 pm
Rudi maak mooi en skryf...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 24, 2010, 09:51:25 pm
hey boys and girls. sorry about the delay. it is silly season again here at work and thank heavens for it. we all need it.

so getting back to mozambique and specifically Vilanculos.

stopping that nite at boabab backpackers was just wot the doctor ordered. i must say that i felt like the camelman without the fag hanging off my lips. ( i stopped for the 10th time and the last time a few months before the trip). there i was stinking and tired after a long day in the saddle and all around me was a bunch of backpackers and overlanders doin the, all in one bus, thing. so a bit shy of westerners after so long i could think of only one thing before setting up my tent, 2M beer. fuck the tent and a few beers later i was getting the hang of the backpackers again and it felt like a holiday away from the trip again. yeah.so nite one at the boabab was a great success of meeting new people and aquiring a babbelas  :mwink:

day 2 nursing a babbelas and devouring a huge english breaky. i think this was the second of the trip. i new this was going to be a rest day. so off to the market i went to see wot was about. there was a few things that i needed and also wanted to do. so i met some local 125cc biker dudes but they couldn't help me with a chain and sprocket. but i found out where was possible in maputo tho. so i bought some fresh fish and crabs. also i went exploring a bit by bike and really liked this town as i am a sailor as well and this was a perfect place for a hobbie cat or little lazer. i could not find any for rent so left that idea for later...
next a little afternoon snooze and an awesome swim in the channels with some newfound friends from the nite before. that evening i made a crab and fish pasta that really scored some browny points with some chicks doing the backpacker thing. :thumleft: and one more nite of drinks,bonfires and making music with cool people. also found out that it is better to go on a speedboat to the islands for a dive than sail on a dow and snorkel.

the next day i was very amped to get on a dhow but to also go diving.so the day was spend finding the best prices for a dive but without a ticket with me. but got lucky and got organised with 2 dives by speedboat for the next day.all the companies wanted to charge like $20 US for a sail on a dhow so i gave them the finger and walked on the beach till i found a captain willing to take me for a sail. for like $2. bonus. love being able to speak a bit of spanish.but as this is a sub tropical like climate you have to wait till 2 or 3 for the tide and wind to be perfect. no worries. made the plans and went to spend some time swimming and chillin with the backpacker chicks and puffing on  some malawi gold that i was taking back to a mate of mine that was still lying in bed with a broken pelvis.
so the time passed rather quickly and the wind came up and off to the dow we went sailing into the sunset.literally like in the movies. it was really cool sailing a arab designed boat that had not been changed in many centuries. as they had sailed on the tradewind all those hundreds of years ago so we were sailing that day. having a blast going no where. it was an amazing experience sailing the boat but as it didnt point very well and got boring from a performance point of view i gave the helm back to the skipper and enjoyed being a passanger on his boat and loved seein the pride he had in making his boat move. was very cool and into the sunset and warm waters of the bay we sailed till i got thirsty like most seadogs and off for a beer and dinner we went.
the next day was a dive day so up early and ready for action. this was again a very special day that i will treasure for years as the waters are warm and the sealife colourful and the fish plentiful. 2 dives were had and to try and explain it would be futile. amazing and wonderful to say the least. go out and see what lies beneath two thirds of this earth...
back home/tent that evening and the party was on again. many of us that met there had spend quality time together but the road was calling(actually it was work  :laughing4: ) so we had one last good party. the israelies were heading towards maputo and the 2 chicks working in tanzania were heading north. me xai xai and then ponta do ouro with a stop in maputo to hopefully get a chain and sprocket... hopefully
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 24, 2010, 09:57:51 pm
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on November 24, 2010, 10:00:30 pm
more again
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Pistonpete on November 25, 2010, 07:15:54 am
 :drif: Awesome stuff!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Andy660 on December 01, 2010, 11:42:38 pm
Hey Rudi !
Awesome read , really enjoyed the trip .
Your a lucky fella! Give my best to Harold.

Let me know if his frame is still ok ?
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: bradleys on December 03, 2010, 09:56:51 am
Just finished reading this post,brillant Rudi,pity about Harold.That was one epic trip,talk about getting back to your routes,awesome,thanks for sharing :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on December 06, 2010, 08:55:47 pm
hey guys thanx for the feedback it is really cool and am glad that this story makes you smile.  :thumleft:

so off to xai xai on the en1 national road. doin a cool 80km/h and taking in the sites. was weary of my chain so pulled over every 45 mins to oil my chain. this was a really cool time of mixed emotions again as it was difficult to stay focused on still being on the trip as i was now goin home. but home was still maybe 3 000kms away but the reality was still there that the end was nearing now. maybe 5 days left or 6. who knows. but things still happen and the end is only there when you are at home so still some shit left to experience.... :mwink:

they are doin some serious work on the EN1 so every now and again it was riding next to the road and passing trucks and cars and now more south africans in big 4 x 4 's. stopped for lunch near a touristy town and on leaving again i get pulled by 2 coppers with a radar gun. they showed me the reading of 90km/h. so obviously my reply was "good i was under a 100 then."  :laughing4: ha ha but it was a 60zone and i must pay like $60 US. well well when dealing with the fuzz a big smile and the right answers can get you home safely. o and playing real dumb...so i said that i have no cash on me and that i had just filled my tank. so i asked how far to the cop shop and the reply was like 40 kms. so i said well we better get goin so that i can pay there with my card. i was then promptly let off with a warning and told to observe the signs. well thank you kind sirs and what a pretty country you have...bye bye

the rest of the day was spent looking out for more cops with radar guns and enjoying the sub tropical scenery. lots of village life was also happening along the road and this kept me very entertained as i made the long way to xai xai.
why xai xai. i have still got brief memory glimpses of this place when i was there with my folks when i was only 13. when i got there just before sunset it did not look like the place that i had remembered. it was nice though and i got a place to stay with an ex pat and his son. it was really cool spending the night chatting about life in mozambique and all the pretty girls that live there. wasn't sure if i was going to stay the next day or move on.
the next day came and i new that i should get goin. ponto do ouro was calling and it should be possible as maputo was only 2hrs away. or somewhere like that. but time does not always run accordingly to your plans and more lessons and adventures were still to be had before leaving mozambique..
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Would I? on December 06, 2010, 10:02:44 pm
more, more.... :biggrin:

what is the update on the busted Pelvis??
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on December 06, 2010, 10:14:07 pm
well after 2 hours or so i got very close to maputo so i stopped again to oil the chain. it was really bad and i didnt know when it was goin to snap and that is not cool riding so far from home with this on your mind..

 so getting into maputo was wild. lots of people and traffic and chaos. here i was really happy to have a gps at hand, it did its job well.so first thing is first and getting chain and sprocket was my mission.after having gotten some info over the last few days it seemed like there is only one guy that could help. a south african guy with a burned face from a bike accident. i had a rough idea where and headed there first. but on getting there things were not looking good as it seems like he had moved shop and no one could tell me where.so after wasting many hours i thought stuff that lets just hope it lasts till SA.
so back to the cbd to catch a ferry across the river. after an hour or more i get there to find that it will only leave in a few hours and i decided to take the long way and ride around, maybe a 150km detour. it was getting late and ponto was still far so back into the same direction as i had been twice already  on this day. o yes this place has lots of people and crazy traffic and not liking the city vibe i was glad to leave but i had wasted maybe 4 hours in maputo and still not achieved much.

i new that getting into ponto would be hard cause of some sand that lay in the way.well taking the long way round was cool but i had wasted too much time. so i was constantly calculating the distance and time of arrival. hearing reports of 4 x 4 tracks and sand dunes starting maybe 45 kms before ponto. well at the 40km mark no sand so i was stoked and thought that i was home free. the sun was setting and the distance got shorter. then as the sun was too low it had made its appearance and i knew that i might of made i slight mistake. so i stopped and deflated my tyres but only to 1,8 bar as i was loaded and didn't want to puncture a tube. so i set off. after about 5 kms 2 vehicles came from the apposite direction so i pulled over to let them pass. the first one told me to be carefull this is dangerous area. huh? well i sukkeld on and did okay. fell a few times and picking up the bike made me tired. so with the sun setting fast i knew that this was now my time to dig deep into myself and face this challenge that i was now in. i had 20kms to go. with no road signs and the sand plus heavy bike was eating my energy rapidly. so i said fuck it. harold had his challenge and all was plain sailin to this point now you better face up boy. so i gave it gas but the phat girl was fighting me and was bucking like a wild horse. so at about 15kms before town doing about 60 or 70 my boot caught the edge and a sudden jolt of pain mixed with adrenaline shot through my ankle to my knee. fuck this was not good. luckily i stayed on and could come to a standstill. fearing a broken ankle i didn't want to take of my boot. the next village about 15kms before ponto with the turnoff to ponto malangane was only 100 meters away. now for decisions. left to ponto malangane 7 kms or right to ponto do ouro 15 kms. ponto do ouro was closer to the border so i opted for the right turnoff. now luckily it didnt break but twisted real bad. i was now still charged with adrenaline so tried to continue on. 100 meters and over. i couldn't put any real weight on my left ankle.i knew that this was bad but thought of harold and that he was much worse off than me so went on. i was really battling with the sand and after 5 kms and the 4th fall i just couldn't pick up the bike anymore. so thought fuck it. i'll leave it as is and set up camp right here next to the road. here was a nice flat piece of sand and i had enough food and water and will try to continue tomorrow when i am rested. well the setting was just beautiful and wot a better campsite can one ask for. so i was happy and completely dead. i could of slept right there and then. but as this is africa and you never really know how things turn out it was not to be....

because after about 15 mins a 4x4 taxi rocks up and all i see is a whole lot of black faces checking me out. they see my bike lying there and ask if all is okay? i told them the story and that i am too tired to continue and that i will sleep right here tonight and continue manana. now this does not go down too well. all that i understand is that this place is dangerous and i cannot stay here. something about criminals and bandidos and this is the frontera. criminals that run between SA and Mozambique use this area to hide out. so it doesnt take too long to convince me. so now how to get to ponto? well get up and drive there. so i say not possible. so one guy named oros offers me his home and a place to stay and i must not stay here. so i take up his generous offer.luckily again a bakkie rocks up but goin to the little village that i had just passed 5 kms away to drop off a mama. he returns 15 mins later and we load my bike onto the bakkie. so the last 10 kms into ponto do ouro i do on a bakkie. :thumleft: so after getting a few beers in ponto we head to Oros's house and the guys pitch a tent right there for me next to his house. then i gotta pay for the services of the bakkie driver. but have to haggle a lot to not get ripped too much. so that nite it is just me and Oros and his family. we chat but not for too long as i am broken and must sleep.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Rynet on December 06, 2010, 10:27:08 pm
Jeepers Tour we can be glad you are still with us  :o That sand is so deep it could have swallowed you up whole   ::) :imaposer:

Ps great pics of those little boys , the scenery , and the phat girl of course  ;)
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on December 06, 2010, 10:30:13 pm
harold is doing well. 10 screws is keeping it all in place. he is at work and super busy at the moment therefore no time on this site. he still needs to build muscle and some physio i think so not 100% just yet but he will be. his bike is at home still covered in red dust and dirt from zambia.he will get to fixing it next year some time when he can get to it. but he is determent. at this time he is playing lawn bowls as it is not too hectic on the hip.  :imaposer: shows his great spirit.

the previous pics that i posted was from the day of leaving ponto. i didn't take any on the way in as time was limited.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on December 06, 2010, 10:32:46 pm
rynet dis nie te erg nie, dit lyk net so. die les wat ek geleer het kom nog
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Rynet on December 06, 2010, 10:39:07 pm
rynet dis nie te erg nie, dit lyk net so. die les wat ek geleer het kom nog

Nee dis baie erg >:D , ek moes nou nie gekyk het nie , ek kry sommer vannaand nagmerries  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on December 06, 2010, 11:15:51 pm
so the next morning was just awesome. a great day after a good nite's rest. my ankle was pretty stiff and sore. i thought that i would be staying here for a few days to recover so took it easy. i used my host Oros's cell phone to call my sister and tell her to nor expect me home too soon as i cannot leave just yet due to injury.

so i spent some time with oros and this was one of the nicest things to actually happen to me. oros is a business man and pretty good one at that. he owns 3 properties in ponto do ouro that he had bought over the last 8 years or so. super friendly and generous. he goes to durban buys a whole bunch of t.v's and dvd's, stereo's and the like. ships it via taxi to ponto and sells it over there for layby or cash. the thing is he doesn't own a passport, so gets a day pass at the border to go to SA and get food supplies. he then goes by taxi to durban buys and comes back in one trip as the pass is valid for 24 hrs only. that is more than a 1000kms round trip. much respect. a very cool guy with lots of drive and a young family.

so after getting to know each other some more i ask him to show me around so we grab some coffee and breakfast and start walking around ponto. this was very hard but it was really good for the ankle so after a few hrs i thought i should get going and started packing. that feeling thing again.. got to trust that allot during this trip.

so as i started packing i dropped 2 myprodols, the first of many, and took my time to pack as it was really cool just chillen with oros and his family but i didn't want to be a nuisance either. so then as i was done i thought stuff the tires and deflated them to 1.2 bar.this was the best thing to do.

now this was now midday and the temperature was rather high so i wet my t-shirt filled my camelback said my farewells and many thank you's. Oros never asked me for anything in return and was just stoked to help and chat.
so off i set a little nervous at wot lay ahead. will i make it with this buggered ankle? will the road be too tough? will it be far?
as i left and the bike behaved rather well and the myprodols had kicked in nicely  :mwink: i realised how stupid i was the day before goin at it with over inflated tyres. lesson learned. or maybe it just happened that way so that mother africa can show me the beauty that still lies in mankind no matter where you come from. i think that was it.

so the next 10kms to the border went without any trouble or hassles. out of Mozambique and into SA in under 10 mins. back home and off to St Lucia. but first fuel and inflating of tyres. at the first little town 30kms away i stop and do all the necessaries and the owner starts talking to me and gives me a full steers burger with chips and a coke. yum yum we chat for a while and he is super stoked about this trip that i am on.i dont remember his name or the little town but it is the first one on entering SA. go support him if you in that area please.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on December 07, 2010, 09:58:01 pm
Classic stuff as ever, Thanks Tour
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: superfoxi on December 07, 2010, 10:57:04 pm
Never a boring moment with Tour on tour! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: J3THRO on January 24, 2011, 05:24:17 pm
Hey Harold + Rudi
Finaly Ive had time to read the report and check the pics. JEALOUS!!!!!!
Thanks for the Sitruspoort misson it was awesome. Send me the pics you guys took please. I am planning Namibia + Angola around June.
You better get back on a horse soon.
4 wheels doesnt look good under you...
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: ktmrules on January 25, 2011, 12:55:27 pm
You guys are legends!! :thumleft:

Living the life some of us only dream of :'(
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: tour on January 25, 2011, 10:12:23 pm
hey jethro. dit was n lekker nat naweek. as jy terug is van die rig dan maak ons weer so. die storie sal ook nou weer verder gaan soos ek vir jou en hendrik belowe het.

sorry dogs for a long delay but work and a cool december holiday had kept me from finishing this report. oh and laziness had nothing to do with it... promise.

so after being back in sunny RSA i had the distinct feeling that it was all over now and that the trip was done. luckily 2 things stopped me from going into depression right there and then. Myprodols for the pain,  my ankle that is and not drug habbits hahaha. and the fact that i was in another amazing country and a province and place that i have not experienced since i was a laaitie.

so after a moment of sorting out my head and realising that i still had +- 2 000 kms to go before home i was back in travelling mode. yeehaaa. so where to next? was running through my mind. well just go south and head for the Boland. so after a few hours riding through kwazulu natal i got to St Lucia and booked into a back packers and got set up. wow my first meeting with westerners again. was wierd for a little while as my mind frame was so way off but that changed rather fast after a few beers. so first it was setting up camp and then my first real shower for cant remember how many days...

hot and running water had never felt so good. so after a shower and well getting into dirty clothes again i felt like a king. so back to the bar more beers and chatting to all the backpackers. it all got really blurry after well maybe an hour. hahaha. black label and durban's finest poison and the memories fade.  O0

so the next morning up early and ready to hit he road as it was friday and i still needed a chain and sprockets. but first coffee, myprodols and meeting these mongoose type of rat like animals. they were around early and i thought my hippo's as apparentluy St lucia is full of them.

from here i went south and wot i found was not new but still new to me. lets just say you natal dogs live in a majestic part of our country.

Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: SwampDonkey on January 26, 2011, 12:17:50 pm
Awesome pics and great RR.... this gives me the inspiration to give my previous attempt at riding to Malawi and back another go. And i think i might have met you briefly a few weeks ago on my way down to Jeffreys Bay. I was riding down prince alfreds pass on my XTZ750, and stopped off at Annie's G-spot. I think that was you and Anton with his KTM.
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: Rooi Wolf on March 31, 2014, 04:59:28 am
My broe!

Ek het toevallig op hierdie RR afgekom soos ek deur die forum gefloat het. Ek het deur die nag gesit en lees, van die 1'e bladsy af regdeur tot hier op die einde. Ek ken jou nou al lank en het so af en toe die stert-kant van hierdie storie gehoor, maar klaarblyklik sal ons nog laaang aande om 'n ou vuurtjie moet sit sodat jy my nog meer kan vertel. Moerse nice avontuur en mooi vertel bra!
Title: Re: Malawi and Busted !!!!
Post by: StuartC on April 01, 2014, 10:34:48 pm
Man this gets my arse itching !