Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => 'Roll of Honour' - Best Ride Reports => Topic started by: Beserker on October 05, 2010, 10:06:19 pm

Title: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 05, 2010, 10:06:19 pm
Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”

Prologue:

Initial planning, started with a bang and a slight hangover..  

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00083_1.jpg)
 

Having done some research, we knew we had to time the Langewand stretch, the narrow strip between Foz de Kunene and Tombua, where the sea meets the Namib dunes, for Spring low tide. From the available dates, we choose 7 September 2010.

The September date also allowed for us to hit the Eastern side of Angola, bordering Zambia, before the rainy season. The Eastern side consists of cotton soil, virtually impassable once wet, and the intention was to forge a North-South passage from Cuito Cuanevale to Namibia.

Tasks were allocated and we spent our time sorting out Letters of Invite, visas and rigging our bikes for an unsupported trip up the West coast, down the Eastern side of Angola.

Not only was fuel a consideration, but the fact that, in the words of a contact found on the internet researching the Eastern leg:


“Twedens, is ek bewus daarvan dat die Angolese regering en ander instansies reuse werk gedoen het wat landmyne aanbetref en steeds besig is, maar die gedeelte vanaf Cuito Cuanavale suid en terug na die grens met Namibia is uiters afgelee, selfs in Angolese terme. Die gedeelte word beskou as die uithoek van Angola en ek is van die opinie dat julle dit baie sal geniet sover dit die afgesonderdheid / ongeskondenheid aanbetref, maar sal julle maan om baie versigtig te wees vir myne. My ondervinding is egter dat mynvelde redelik voorspelbaar geplaas is en dat dit veilig is waar die plaaslike bevolking beweeg en op die paaie wat geredelik gebruik word. Passop egter by brue oor spruite en riviere asook naby voormalige dorpies wat as basisse gedien het.”
 

The group numbers quickly dwindled as the extent of the endeavor became known and the  3rd of September saw only me , Dave (Beserker), Danie (2StrokeDan) and Peter (WatDeFokKykDjy) loading up.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Danie_00001_1.jpg)

Typically for me, I was not finished with the bike building and started the re-wiring of the front end of the XR, to accommodate a battery, charging from the stator, to facilitate the GPS, as Peter was loading.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Dave_00002_1.jpg)
 
Some orderly packing…

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00084_1.jpg)
 
Once loaded, we were ready to rock…we had 4 days from Cape Town to our jump off point into the Langewand stretch, North of Foz du Kunene.

Danie making haste   :o

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00085_1.jpg)
 
We arrived at Aussicht, just South of  Opuwo, on Saturday afternoon. We were to leave the bakkie here. Aussicht can be recommended for reasonable rates, setting and hospitality.

You can see the start of the route in the background…good riding from the word GO!

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00086_1.jpg)
 
Sunday was spent packing the bikes. For me, the first time that I fitted my fuel bladder system….Oh my Gosh!  55l of fuel is a lot of sudden weight.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00087_1.jpg)
 
Peter decided to shun the wearing of a backpack, and stuck about R500 worth of snacks into his jacket pockets.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Danie_00001_1-1.jpg)
 
Finishing early, we left for Ruacana in order to cross the border as early as possible Monday morning. Here we are, fresh and ready, about to leave. (The fresh were to change soon)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00088_1.jpg)
 
On the way to Ruacana, Danie’s XT started running hot, and suspecting the packing arrangements round his front end to be the culprit, he decided to re-arrange. This however, shrunk the available space at the back, and the first to fall victim to the reshuffeling was his food supply, which he promptly finished the first night….a type of weighless, just not patented. Talk about carbo-loading.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00004_1-1.jpg)
 
Monday morning, ready to cross into Angola…

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00005_1.jpg)
 


Next up….

Trippin’ !!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: zetman on October 05, 2010, 10:20:57 pm
Yes yes ek wag al lank vir di trip lekker julle
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Jacko on October 05, 2010, 10:29:48 pm
Waa's julle trailer?

Julle moet vir KykNet bel. Hulle soek DS materiaal.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Pistonpete on October 05, 2010, 10:32:51 pm
Subscribed :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Etienne2T on October 05, 2010, 10:39:03 pm
:happy1: Ek sien die full size camping chair is wragtig op 2SD se bike
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: GlenInk on October 05, 2010, 11:29:09 pm
This is going to be good !  :happy1: :happy1:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Rbacknz on October 06, 2010, 04:26:45 am
This looks like another one of the :-WE can't wait for the next instalment. Keep it coming. 
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Crossed-up on October 06, 2010, 06:50:48 am
This should be good - subscribed!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: madmike999 on October 06, 2010, 07:22:41 am
This should be good - subscribed!



ditto
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: edgy on October 06, 2010, 07:26:21 am
I`m in..............
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 06, 2010, 07:45:07 am
Waa's julle trailer?

Julle moet vir KykNet bel. Hulle soek DS materiaal.

Nei man...het met 2 van hulle ga-praat...wou ook wiet waar issie trailer, ek se toe vir hulle agter die bakkie, waar anners?

Wou toe weet of ek geval het, ek se hoe nou, nei se hulle, het ek dalk in die pad afgery en toe neergeslaan in 'n sand kolletjie, ek se toe nei, dit klink seer (se toe maar nie vir hulle ek kan ry nie...net nou klink dit of ek windgat is..). Se toe maar hulle van die keer innie donga, en toe wil hulle weet of ek footage het, ek se to nei...as jy daar gaan rondneuk met 'n kamara gaan  hy breek, dis rof.

Enige ander, ek se toe ja...in Calai van die barstoel af, maar ek het gevloek...wat het jy gese wou hulle wiet, ek se ek het ga-se f@k, en toe, wil hulle wiet..toe se ek ek kom toe agter ek het niks van my N'Gola gamors nie, toe se ek f@kken dankie tog.

Hulle rol toe hulle hul oge, en die een se hulle sal moet kat (Ek wou toe se eintlik is dit 'n Honda, maar bly toe maar stil.

Hulle wil toe wiet vannie baaiks, wys hulle 'n kiekies, hulle wil toe weet waar allie pistons is (hierie ouens weet fokkol) ek se toe nei...dit was 'n trip sonner support, ekstra pistons is te swaar om vir spares saam te vat.

En die baaiks se badges, vra hulle, ek se toe hoe nou? Hulle wys toe my 'n foto van annner baaiks...ek se OOOO, nei hierdie baaiks het plestiek tanks, graphix peel af, en besides, dis 'n Honda, hy he kry 'n wing, het nie 'n propeller nodig om te vlieg nie....
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: letsgofishing on October 06, 2010, 07:47:45 am
subscribed.... :drif:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 06, 2010, 08:54:53 am
I`m in..............

+1 - gooi die report :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Frohan Visser on October 06, 2010, 09:02:31 am
Laat looi met die RR, ons kan nie wag nie!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: domstes on October 06, 2010, 09:16:41 am
 :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: jshump on October 06, 2010, 09:30:39 am
subscribed :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: buzzlightyear on October 06, 2010, 09:36:26 am
Sien uit na die een.

Maar ek het ook gesien wie se bakkie ek NIE wil koop nie  :o
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: roxenz on October 06, 2010, 10:17:20 am
Great manne! Hier kom 'n grote!  :drif:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: popipants on October 06, 2010, 10:35:45 am
Subscribed
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: IDR on October 06, 2010, 11:08:31 am
Subscribed

+1
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 06, 2010, 11:31:41 am
Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”



Day 1, 2 and 3, Ruacana to Foz du Kunene:

Crossing the border is a no problem, tedious affair….everything gets copied by hand in triplicate.

Emigration window first, at the Customs window a real live chicken in the chair. After a minute or two of scrambling around, they managed to find and rouse the customs official..it is however debatable who was the most efficient, at last count the chicken was still ahead with a layed egg.

The aircon was off, emigration officials conducting their business at the border post:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00089_1.jpg)
 
Pulling away from the border an awful realization….Pete, during some idle hours in the bakkie driving up from Seffrica, played with my GPS…and by accident wiped off all the tracks that constitutes our planned trip.

Not to be deterred, we carried on…we were here for some adventure after all, what more can we ask for.

The guy with his finger up his nose is the GPS delete specialist:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00006_1-1.jpg)

The rest of the afternoon was spent cruising deeper into Angola, on an Westerly heading, in the general direction of  Monte Negro.

Some random shots (and it is at this point that it should be noted; not  one of us aspires to the title of photographer, nor travel writer – we are three happy snappers that went riding for the sheer petrol headedness fun of it – The photographs are a collective effort)

The road is long..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00090_1.jpg)

 Quite a bit of water in an otherwise dry area.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00091_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00092_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00007_1.jpg)

Huge piles of firewood (Should make Gideon’s hart beat faster)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00093_1.jpg)

We also bumped into a local chapter of the “A(r)sses Wild” gang…check out the onboard stereo system, and the “ShowaLottaOfGat” protective attire.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00098_1.jpg)

First evening in Angola, made camp, and true to tradition, the Himba appeared out of the sand.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00095_1.jpg)

Fortunately for us though, as logistical problem #2 just manifested itself…we had 4 15l bladders, 45l fuel, 15l water. Somehow, they got mixed up, and the water was in an old petrol bladder….undrinkable, we were reduced to two 1.5l Camelbac bladders and these, Danie’s personal stash…2 x 2l coke bottles, 1 x 350ml coke bottle.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00008_1.jpg)

He started guarding them jealously, fortunately, this chap showed up and guided us to a well.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00094_1.jpg)
 

Next morning we were entertained by a round of Ram fighting, and shortly after we were off, en route to Monte Negro.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00096_1.jpg)
 
Some more random shots of the route..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00097_1.jpg)

Apart from the odd water crossing ,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00063_1.jpg)
 

The route got progressively more rocky.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00009_1-1.jpg)
 

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00010_1.jpg)

Till..a whole lotta rock!

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00068_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00101_1.jpg)

Fortunately, considering our dire water situation, the dry spells were broken by these water pumps, erected by the Portuguese before they took flight in the mid 70’s.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00099_1.jpg)

A small river crossing saw us to Monte Negro,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00100_1.jpg)

A shot of the Active Virgin gyming..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00064_1.jpg)
 

And a welcome beer.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00065_1.jpg)

I tried rinsing Pete’s contaminated water bladder in the Kunene with soap, to no avail…it was ruined.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00011_1.jpg)
 
Following this track from Monte Negro,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00066_1.jpg)

We headed of in the general direction of the 1400 m high Sierra , you will notice it peeking over the horizon in the above pic.

The route led us through some dongas,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00102_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00103_1.jpg)
 
To the Olopima river bed where we camped for the night…all in all, a pleasant day of riding.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00104_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00067_1.jpg)

The next morning we hit the road early.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00012_1.jpg)

Still life with Zaar:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00105_1.jpg)

Pretty soon we came upon Iona, and contrary to all advice of avoiding the station, the police were friendly and courteous, their station spanking clean, and best of all, a deep freeze with water.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00106_1.jpg)

As it was our last known watering spot before Foz, I drank till I felt like drowning, and then filled my Camelbac.

We headed out on a nice, sandy stretch, and noticed abundant wild life.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00014_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00013_1.jpg)

Some Welwetchias
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00069_1.jpg)

Till we had to turn of…

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00015_1.jpg)

Crossing the barren wastes of the Northern Namib on a compass heading.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00017_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00070_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00018_1.jpg)

The severe water rationing was starting to take it’s toll, the heat…..we decided to drop in at the roadhouse for take outs..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00107_1.jpg)

Mirages, heat, thirst and desert…a dangerous cocktail, and dry!

Heading further west, I was half expecting a troop of  Foreign Legionnaires to come marching across the Wadi.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00108_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00110_1.jpg)

Some kick starting for those who appreciate such models.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00016_1.jpg)

According to the map, “in the middle of fucking nowhere”, and NO ENTRY! HaHa, nobody to stop us.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00071_1.jpg)

Negotiating a desert canyon,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00109_1.jpg)

We eventually made it to the Foz du Kunene beacon. Looking east, Danie and Peter approaching.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00111_1.jpg)

Making our way down, a small victory, we made it to the mouth of the Kunene.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00112_1.jpg)
 
Foz du Kunene however, is a miserable, windy place, a place where the police sees fit to post their drop outs.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00019_1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00020_1.jpg)

After showing our passports, we started making our way North along the coast, in order to position ourselves favorably for the Langewand stretch, or, as it is know quite melodramatically, die “Doodsakker” , graveyard to all that misjudge the forces of nature.

The sand being so soft that you could only pull away with great difficulty, we hop scotched the rocky outcrops till we found a suitable place for camp, about 20km from the start of Langewand.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00021_1.jpg)

We were here..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Doodsakker-1.jpg)



Next up….

Riding the Bitch  Beach!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: popipants on October 06, 2010, 11:49:30 am
We've taken Angolo off our "to do" list next year and decided with Northen Namibia only.....but you guys are now starting an itch  :mwink: :mwink: :mwink: :mwink:

 :pot: :pot:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Gryshond on October 06, 2010, 11:52:17 am
I can't wait for the next installment
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: domstes on October 06, 2010, 11:56:05 am
Thanks for posting this.  :thumleft:

I know where my trip is going next year!  :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 06, 2010, 11:56:45 am
We've taken Angolo off our "to do" list next year and decided with Northen Namibia only.....but you guys are now starting an itch  :mwink: :mwink: :mwink: :mwink:

 :pot: :pot:

Only started the RR..you will see, the riding is really  (REALLY) worthwhile.

The lack of infrastructure, camping sites, cheap petrol (Gasolina) supermarkets etc. makes for a cheap trip....spent a lot less than on this one:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=25319.0

bearing in mind that we had no major f-ups on the Angolan side, which might swing the equation.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 06, 2010, 11:58:48 am
I am in for the ride  :thumleft:

Can't wait for the rest...excellent so far.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: popipants on October 06, 2010, 12:02:57 pm
We've taken Angolo off our "to do" list next year and decided with Northen Namibia only.....but you guys are now starting an itch  :mwink: :mwink: :mwink: :mwink:

 :pot: :pot:

Only started the RR..you will see, the riding is really  (REALLY) worthwhile.

The lack of infrastructure, camping sites, cheap petrol (Gasolina) supermarkets etc. makes for a cheap trip....spent a lot less than on this one:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=25319.0

bearing in mind that we had no major f-ups on the Angolan side, which might swing the equation.

We took it off our planned trip, because we thought the admin of getting into the country is not worth the riding.
So I'm looking forward for the rest of the report to see if we need a re-think :biggrin: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Moloko on October 06, 2010, 12:21:26 pm
 :thumleft:

Lyk moerse lekker ouens!

Daai koue water by die polisie stasie het seker soos soete nektar geproe?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 06, 2010, 12:33:15 pm
:thumleft:

Lyk moerse lekker ouens!

Daai koue water by die polisie stasie het seker soos soete nektar geproe?

Jy weet darem...gesien julle het ook die "put" ding gedoen...dis wanneer mens water waardeer.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: LeonDude on October 06, 2010, 12:52:19 pm
Subscribe!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: letsgofishing on October 06, 2010, 01:22:46 pm
Great stuff so far Beserker :thumleft:
Looking forward to the rest!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: dirtWarp on October 06, 2010, 01:35:15 pm
subscribed. Keep 'em coming  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: LRFan on October 06, 2010, 01:42:30 pm
Hel, dit lyk darem na 'n lekker trip. Daai motorfietse lyk nogal swaar met al die petrol wat julle moet saam vat. Wat is die minimum wat 'n ou moet wat in ag genome jou fiets se mormale gebruik?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: TerrorSA on October 06, 2010, 01:51:12 pm
Awesome report,  :drif:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 06, 2010, 01:57:42 pm
Cool RR so far. But you okes keep going East and the sea is west.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Trailrider on October 06, 2010, 02:04:14 pm
Great stuff! Looking forward to the rest.

Those are the type and size of bikes with which areas likes these should be ridden.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Spore on October 06, 2010, 02:11:04 pm
Wow! Thanks for sharing! I'm hooked! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: funacide on October 06, 2010, 02:14:01 pm
We've taken Angolo off our "to do" list next year and decided with Northen Namibia only.....but you guys are now starting an itch  :mwink: :mwink: :mwink: :mwink:

 :pot: :pot:

Only started the RR..you will see, the riding is really  (REALLY) worthwhile.

The lack of infrastructure, camping sites, cheap petrol (Gasolina) supermarkets etc. makes for a cheap trip....spent a lot less than on this one:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=25319.0

bearing in mind that we had no major f-ups on the Angolan side, which might swing the equation.

We took it off our planned trip, because we thought the admin of getting into the country is not worth the riding.
So I'm looking forward for the rest of the report to see if we need a re-think :biggrin: :biggrin:

I am starting to agree with you.... Looks awesome.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: >Herman< on October 06, 2010, 02:24:33 pm
We've taken Angolo off our "to do" list next year and decided with Northen Namibia only.....but you guys are now starting an itch  :mwink: :mwink: :mwink: :mwink:

 :pot: :pot:

Only started the RR..you will see, the riding is really  (REALLY) worthwhile.

The lack of infrastructure, camping sites, cheap petrol (Gasolina) supermarkets etc. makes for a cheap trip....spent a lot less than on this one:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=25319.0

bearing in mind that we had no major f-ups on the Angolan side, which might swing the equation.

We took it off our planned trip, because we thought the admin of getting into the country is not worth the riding.
So I'm looking forward for the rest of the report to see if we need a re-think :biggrin: :biggrin:

I am starting to agree with you.... Looks awesome.

.....mmmmmm...... Ja wel, count me in.  :thumleft:

Awesome report so far, can't wait for next installment.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: rubiblue on October 06, 2010, 02:25:52 pm
Awesome. Subscribed.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: JMOL on October 06, 2010, 02:30:13 pm
Subscribed  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Laban on October 06, 2010, 02:31:10 pm
Cool RR so far. But you okes keep going East and the sea is west.

Soos Ama vrae daar is iets nie lekker met die Oos - Wes nie, maar bevonk dankie!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Poenjas on October 06, 2010, 02:54:23 pm
 :happy1:    :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 06, 2010, 03:09:44 pm
Cool RR so far. But you okes keep going East and the sea is west.

Soos Ama vrae daar is iets nie lekker met die Oos - Wes nie, maar bevonk dankie!!

 :P  ...no wonder it took us so long, wrong way round  ;D

You are right of course, but I was East be-f#k, as you will see later, will change.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BOER! on October 06, 2010, 03:57:55 pm
Ta tum.!

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Metaljockey on October 06, 2010, 04:12:34 pm
Unsupported, carrying 55l of fuel, Ruacana to Foz to Tombua.

Excellent, lovely.

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Crop Sprang on October 06, 2010, 04:26:22 pm
Angola makes for great RR's
subscribed
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Doerengone on October 06, 2010, 05:07:55 pm

Wow, lekka trip.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: pops on October 06, 2010, 05:51:50 pm
Hooked. Balecka(spelling) , boetie , we are waiting.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Rough Rider on October 06, 2010, 07:14:13 pm
Subscribe
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: blazes on October 06, 2010, 07:59:16 pm
Looks Yummy Dave--- :mwink:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Jovan on October 06, 2010, 08:40:08 pm
 :happy1:

thanks for sharing!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: MX Junkie on October 06, 2010, 08:41:43 pm
Lekker Dave, Welcome home and keep it coming. :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Oupa Foe-rie on October 06, 2010, 09:17:37 pm
 :happy1:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: bonova on October 06, 2010, 09:22:14 pm
this looks good!!!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: oo7 on October 06, 2010, 09:41:32 pm
Aaaahhhh - another lip licking Angola ride. Awesome!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Woestersous on October 06, 2010, 10:43:44 pm
Gedink julle gaan nooit deel nie!!!!! Nice pics vir 'n klomp happiesnappies. 
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on October 07, 2010, 02:09:24 am
Can't wait for more .. 8)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: GO GIRL on October 07, 2010, 08:42:02 pm
more than lip licking, it definitely creates that itch........ :ricky: this is simply drooling.... :drif:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 07, 2010, 09:43:00 pm
Unsupported, carrying 55l of fuel, Ruacana to Foz to Tombua.

Excellent, lovely.



You know the feeling, the antici-p-p-p-p-ation of about to start that beach section   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 07, 2010, 09:52:00 pm
Well start the bloody thing.....
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: KwaiPappaGaai on October 07, 2010, 10:05:00 pm
Donner!!Epic shit!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Hagar on October 07, 2010, 10:16:25 pm
Gooi maar.  Julle het ons aandag...
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “três cavaleiros”
Post by: Woestersous on October 07, 2010, 10:46:31 pm
Wat Dan gese het......................!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 07, 2010, 11:05:43 pm
Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”



Day 4 and 5, Foz du Kunene to Flamingo Lodge.

Due to the wind, everybody retired to the shelter of their tents early, and after a long night, were out and about at sunrise.

After packing, we used the first 20km for a warm-up, the riding relaxing although the sand was quite soft.  

All packed up..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00022_1.jpg)
 
Some wide open beach.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00023_1.jpg)

If you look closely, you can see Pete’s headlight..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00113_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00114_1.jpg)
 
At the start of the tight section, me sucking out the last drop from Pete's bladder…now we only had Danie’s 2 x 2 liter coke bottles left.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00027_1.jpg)
 
Danie happy to be doing what he came here for:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00028_1.jpg)
 
The start:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00025_1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00029_1.jpg)
 
Unknown to us, not having access to the modern day expedition “necessities” like sat-phones, two of the guide led 4x4 expeditions that were to share the beach with us, were cancelled due to the extremely high water levels.

We were to learn this only on reaching Flamingo Lodge (fortunately, as we were not tempted to change our plans), but I do remember thinking that “Hell, it sure looks a lot narrower than on photographs I saw..”  

Tracks left by me and Pete..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00026_1.jpg)

This stretch was narrower than the width of a vehicle,  I do not think a 4x4 would have fitted here….BONUS…we had the whole stretch to ourselves.

As we progressed, and the tide receded, the beach did get wider, and what ensued was to me a heavy metal cacophony of engines screaming along the beach…this was what they were built for, and we were maxing them out…it was exhilarating!!!

I was bending down with my ear as close to the Akropovic as possible, and just twisting the throttle, the noise and the surge of power made me go Beserk!  Lol !

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00024_1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00117_1.jpg)
 
Running along the beach in 4th, I did not bother stopping for photographs, at opportune moments I would snap away with my left hand whilst keeping the throttle pinned, a bit like having a helmet cam, like they say ”same, same…but different!”

These are from the saddle.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00118_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00115_1.jpg)

According to my tracklog I was going 96km/h for most of the stretch, we finished the narrows within 90 mins…we entered at 8:41, exited by 10:13.

It is worth noting that we came across packs of feral dogs on this stretch of beach. They feed, and get the water that they need for survival, from the seal carcasses washing out on the beach (There is a lot of them)

Speaking to locals afterwards, they hunt in packs, and will not hesitate to attack humans….as a matter they did give chase when we passed, bikers beware!

The Consortium Alpha:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00030_1.jpg)

The Vanesa Seafood (Bloody hooligans on XT’s - can’t take them anywhere – right over the deck):

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00119_1.jpg)

Or rather, what is left of it.
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00001_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00120_1.jpg)

From here we turned inland, to Tombua, for petrol and water.

I could taste the beer, and left Danie and Peter for dust.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00121_1.jpg)
 
One approaches Tombua from the South Eastern side, bypassing the shanty town and  “city dump” , not a favourable first impression, and unfortunately one that lasted throughout our very brief visit.  

Although the former grandeur as a Portugese holiday town is still visible, the place is a dysfunctional stinkhole with no public services, the smell of dead fish and decaying animals permeating the air. We changed money, and although not threatened, the reception by the local police on demanding our passports was less than friendly. It was as if a general rot had set in, and after stopping for a photograph or two of the harbour, we rid ourselves of the place.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00031_1.jpg)

By the way, the ships on the horison are all beached wrecks on a sandbank.

En route to Flamingo Lodge, we passed this interesting town, the coastline characteristic of what we saw till we eventually turned East towards Lubango.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00032_1.jpg)

After taking a turnoff to early, we wound up at this lighthouse, within site of Flamingo Lodge, but going by the only route in, another 37 km. I was all for hopping over the side, off-piste style, but Danie convinced me otherwise. (Looking at it from this angle, fortunately)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00034_1.jpg)

Eventually we arrived at Flamingo,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00122_1.jpg)

Our hosts, Bernard and Hilda…thanks guys, a brilliant stay, great food, good company:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00035_1.jpg)

The sheer luxury…a roof over our heads,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00037_1.jpg)

not sleeping in the dust,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00036_1.jpg)

And a bar with chairs, tables, a fridge and coffee machine (and interesting local characters.)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00033_1.jpg)

Pete making sure of dinner..(Thanks Spyker for taking him out)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00072_1.jpg)

Flamingo lodge…very, very nice!

Entering from the North,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00123_1.jpg)
 
The restaurant..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00127_1.jpg)

 The accommodation.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00002_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00131_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00124_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00125_1.jpg)

Getting round..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00126_1.jpg)

People, do yourselves a favor…we arranged our letter of invite through Flamingo, they facilitated our Visa applications, and as a courtesy we booked for one night at the lodge, camping. For what you get, the rates are more than reasonable, so we opted for a Bungalow, and ended up staying for 2 nights. Had we not a mission to complete, we were all keen for a longer stay, it was s-o-o-o very nice.

After a good night’s rest, we took our off-day seriously, a good breakfast, lots of coffee, and then we did what all dyed in the wool bikers do on a day off….we went riding.

Stripping our bikes off luggage, oh so wonderful to have them light again, we went exploring along the beach …thanks Ray (KTM 530) for the tour…(the pace was brisk, and thoroughly enjoyed by all…some serious HIGH flying, hey Ray  :deal:  )

Some happy snaps:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00128_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00129_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00130_1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00074_1.jpg)

Spyker explaining the in and outs of fishing on this piece of coast…fisherman’s tales? Not at the rate his clients were pulling out the big ones!

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00073_1.jpg)

After the beach ride we went back for a leisurely lunch, with a promise from Ray to go show us the Canyons during the afternoon.

On the way in, very flat, what could possibly be out there?

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00042_1.jpg)
 
Some clue..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00132_1.jpg)

Amazing canyons, the formations and size quite awesome.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00038_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00041_1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00039_1.jpg)

Still life with XT
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00040_1.jpg)

Ironically, as the pace was fast, and being free of luggage, irresitable to give it stick through the desert, I mentioned to Danie over lunch that we should take care and not crash ourselves or the bikes out of the trip. A few minutes after the above photographs were taken, a bought a farm in this desert that I like so much.

Gunning along in the dust being kicked up by Ray on his KTM, I wacked a small donga, popping my rear tyre. Al that Pete behind me saw was a huge cloud of dust. I did not actually fall, although I summersaulted over the handlebars, I landed on my feet…small consolation that Ray popped his rear tyre over the same stretch.

Major difference between other tyres compared with the Mich Desert, the Desert has such stiff sidewalls , you can ride them flat without actually noticing it.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00133_1.jpg)

The nett result of the fun and games: 2 popped tyres, a broken rear brake calipher adapter (which I only noticed back home, and torn knee cartlidge, which was to hound me for the rest of the trip. Danie kindly helped with the tyre as I was a stiff as a board.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00134_1.jpg)

That night we indulged in a sumptious meal prepared by Hilde and her staff, packed and prepped to take our leave of this oasis of luxury in the desert….the mission awaits.
 
Next up….

Civilization and the Slog
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 07, 2010, 11:17:25 pm
Very well written Dave, thanks man.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 07, 2010, 11:32:14 pm
Very well written Dave, thanks man.

Well ridden..thanks  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on October 08, 2010, 01:44:56 am
Classic stuff !!

... hell I'd love to do a trip like this...
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Rbacknz on October 08, 2010, 02:38:50 am
That was amazing. Very well written and ridden. :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Hondsiff Honda on October 08, 2010, 06:41:40 am
Nice one Dave looks like an awsome trip  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 08, 2010, 07:12:47 am
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00024_1.jpg)

Well written. Lekker rides. From all the Angelo reports I (both 4X4 and bikes) your experience of the doodsakker seems the easiest.

Does this pic show how high the tide comes in or is it just sand sliding down?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: MX Junkie on October 08, 2010, 07:31:30 am
Hi,.............. my name is Andre............and I am an ADDICT!  :ricky:

Kewl stuff.........The XR looks happiest in the Desert.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 08, 2010, 07:35:37 am
Epic stuff :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 08, 2010, 07:43:00 am
Hi Ama, we entered the doodsakker? just after the turn of high tide, so the water still come up even higher, so much so that even a bike won't get through. This is the one thing about this stretch, dead easy but timing is important, much more so for 4x4's than bikes. Remove the hype around this stretch and it is like riding along any easy beach. We sprayed the bikes with Q20 before entering the Langewand[doodsakker] to offer the machines some degree of saltwater protection. Was'nt really needed on the Yammie, such enduring quality!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: JMOL on October 08, 2010, 07:44:13 am
Manjefiek!! 

Very well written Dave, thanks man.

+ 1 000
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: letsgofishing on October 08, 2010, 08:33:27 am
Great stuff Beserker - stunning riding!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Frohan Visser on October 08, 2010, 08:37:44 am
Hi...ha....!!!!!

Julle het die "doodsakker" na 'n gewone "Macassar breakfast ride" laat lyk!!!

Daai "canyons" is "amazing"!!

Moenie laat ons wag op jou nie!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 08, 2010, 08:45:03 am

Julle het die "doodsakker" na 'n gewone "Macassar breakfast ride" laat lyk!!!


From a technical perspective, the consensus was that it is no more, no less than playing at Macasser or Atlantis...what most of us do over weekends in any case.

The remoteness however comes into play, keep in mind you have to cater for fuel, food, water etc for three to four days, and your bike has to be 100% mechanically sound...it will be a long walk.

Like Danie says, remove the hype, and do not succumb to mind games , the actual ride is very enjoyable.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Ama ride ride on October 08, 2010, 09:37:40 am
Hi Ama, we entered the doodsakker? just after the turn of high tide, so the water still come up even higher, so much so that even a bike won't get through. This is the one thing about this stretch, dead easy but timing is important, much more so for 4x4's than bikes. Remove the hype around this stretch and it is like riding along any easy beach. We sprayed the bikes with Q20 before entering the Langewand[doodsakker] to offer the machines some degree of saltwater protection. Was'nt really needed on the Yammie, such enduring quality!

Dankie 2SD.

Ek wys eindelik na die bank op die regterkant. Mens kan sien sand het afgeskuif. Vandaar my vraag of die water verantwoordelik is daarvoor.

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 08, 2010, 09:45:34 am

Ek wys eindelik na die bank op die regterkant. Mens kan sien sand het afgeskuif. Vandaar my vraag of die water verantwoordelik is daarvoor.



Ja...die water slaan vas daarteen met hooggety, en ons was die oggend net na springgety daardeur.

Op baie plekke kan jy die opdrifsel waar die water teen die duin uitgespoel het, sien...selfs 'n meter plus hoer as die voet van die duin.

Wat die water/duin ook veroorsaak is dit verhoog die watertafel (dit is asof die duin 'n soiliede toon het onder die strand, selfs al lyk die plat gedeelte soos soliede strand, is dit eintlik sand wat dryf in water, 'n tipe "slurry", jy voel dit duidelik as jy daardeur ry, die enjin kry so diep brul soos hy trek wannneer hy 'n bietjie insink.

Edit...Ek sien wat jy bedoel, die sand op die foto breek redelik hoog af...nee die water gaan nie so hoog nie...op die foto, omtrent horisontaal met my kop
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Would I? on October 08, 2010, 09:52:53 am
Great report so far thanks.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: watkykjy on October 08, 2010, 11:47:25 am
Excellent Bezerker!
Why have you not told how we kakked off ?
HAHAHA
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: ALLAWYN on October 08, 2010, 12:01:13 pm
Great report, well written, well ridden and easy to identifiy with. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 08, 2010, 12:09:04 pm
Excellent Bezerker!
Why have you not told how we kakked off ?
HAHAHA


The diarrhea only started much later, if I remember correctly!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BlueBull2007 on October 08, 2010, 12:21:05 pm
Absolutely fantastic stuff guys! :hello2: :hello2:

Keep it coming. Its great motivation for me to finish my RR  :P
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Heimer on October 08, 2010, 12:38:35 pm
Man, I am enjoying this.

Thanks

 :happy1:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: domstes on October 08, 2010, 12:50:01 pm
Man this itch is getting worse every time I read more!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: KAT-WP on October 08, 2010, 01:42:01 pm
Well start the bloody thing.....

 :laughing4:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: KAT-WP on October 08, 2010, 01:45:59 pm
Was lekka to see u guys @ KTM past Wednesday & Beserker, I know u guys had AWSUM trip as u told me.....those pics just get better and better, love the beach pics esp, great RR so far, thanks :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: LuckyStriker on October 08, 2010, 01:57:09 pm
Awesome, awesomer, awesomest
Can't wait to read more of it
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: lemac on October 08, 2010, 01:57:36 pm
Amazing!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: ThomTom on October 08, 2010, 02:58:42 pm
Please do not make us sit the whole weekend without the next chapter, it is just not fair!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Tankwa on October 08, 2010, 03:16:29 pm
Great RR and brilliant photo's guys. Looking forward for the rest !
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 08, 2010, 11:49:21 pm
Absolutely fantastic stuff guys! :hello2: :hello2:

Keep it coming. Its great motivation for me to finish my RR  :P

And I thought we enduring...till Tuesday night that is!  Great meeting you !

Was lekka to see u guys @ KTM past Wednesday ..

Long time no see, great to see you again...we need to go ride, what what?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 09, 2010, 12:08:37 am

Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”



Day 7, 8 and 9, Namibe to Cuito Cuanevale via Lubango, Matala, Cuvango, Menogue.

Leaving Flamingo, we opted to follow the coast rather than the river road and the tarred stretch to Namibe.

Not plain sailing though, eventually you do need too move inland to skirt this canyon, and hit the tar about 7 km before Namibe.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00135_1.jpg)
 
Danie and Pete also went on weighless, again…Pete lost a tent, Danie his sleeping bag  :P

Namibe gave us our first taste of Angola city traffic, and although nothing compared to Lubango  --  ANARCHY – with driving on the right hand side of the road, no road markings, no rules, what – what?

In Namibe I went to change money and buy food whilst Danie fixed a puncture..initially the police had an issue with him pulling the bike onto a bench on the pavement, but no issue with him pulling a bench into the road, and then fixing the tyre.  ???

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00136_1.jpg)

As with everywhere else where we stopped, pretty soon a crowd gathered around us, and Danie hurried his repairs…to hurried as it turned out, about 20km outside of Namibe:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00137_1.jpg)

en route to Lubango…remnants of the Portugese colonial era.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00043_1.jpg)
 

Not much worth noting of the route to Lubango, except two things, the most horrendous car and truck wrecks littered the side of the road (a grim reminder why we stick to off road as far as possible) and Leba pass.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00044_1.jpg)
 
An engineering feat, but still a tar road as far as I’m concerned.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00045_1.jpg)

Went past the “Biker Pub” and although we were offered accommodation, the place was being renovated and according to Juan, will be back to business as usual by November.

We opted for free camping at Tuandevale, about 27km outside Lubango, on the edge of the escarpment.

Bumping into a crowd we met at Flamingo, we were offered coffee by Wim and Rosarie, and a pleasant night was spend around the campfire..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00047_1.jpg)

Tuandevale, notorious for the fact that people falling into disfavour to who ever was the ruling party at the time - were thrown over the side…not the place to camp if you are prone to sleepwalking.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00048_1.jpg)

Knowing the history, sent shivers down my spine standing on the edge.

We also did the touristy thing - Dorsland Trekker memorial:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00046_1.jpg)

 

Christo Rei:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00049_1.jpg)
 
From here we “slabbed” it to Menogue, the consensus was to get this West – East stretch, on the fringe of civilisation washing down from the richer North, over and done with…we were going to get down and ride it, one day should be enough.

Lunchspot:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00050_1.jpg)
 
Bridge/Damwall at Matala, and I’m gatvol of “civilisation”:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00051_1.jpg)

 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00052_1.jpg)

Roman Cathlic cathedral in Kuvango,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00138_1.jpg)

On par for this part of the world, shot to pieces.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00054_1.jpg)
 
From here, the intermittend dirt turned to glorious full time dirt, and within minutes of leaving town, we were back in outback Africa, crossing the Cuchi on a bridge built by some Swedish relief agency,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00139_1.jpg)

The old bridge, coutesy of some shell, forms part of the rapids, which I would imagine to be to any river rat’s liking. (There is over a 100km of this, just in this one stretch)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00055_1.jpg)

Soon after we made camp, attracting local attention as usual.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00140_1.jpg)

After dinner, about to retire, we heard the faint murmur of a small bore engine approaching, a few minutes later, a 2 candlewatt light became visible…blow me over, a hunting party retuning to Cuchi:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00141_1.jpg)

Check out the drivers headtorch, about the best light of the whole setup.

The next day we set out, determined to make Cuito Cuanavale.

Following the sandy Guchi dirttrack,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00142_1.jpg)
 
we eventually intersected the dirt road that services the new railroad being built by the Chinese. Leading straight to Menogue, we took a left turn and headed there for some petrol.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00056_1.jpg)

In the middle of nowhere, railway station built by Chinese.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00053_1.jpg)

Some old bridges, and make-shift alternatives.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00057_1.jpg)

In Menogue, a sizable city, only one petrol pump working, and we had to queue.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00143_1.jpg)

We were promptly, and with consent from everybody, waved to the front…once again ANARCHY! With petrol splashing everywhere, the attendant managed the whole business with alacrity, pumping the next client whilst sorting out the change for about three clients back.

From Menogue we headed out towards Cuito, the ravages of war, after all these years, still very much in your face….what a fucked up business, war.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00081_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00075_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00076_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00077_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00082_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00078_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00079_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00080_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00061_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00059_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00058_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00062_1.jpg)

A previous thread on Angola contained a qoute by a fellow dog…

 “ When two elephant bulls fight, it is the grass that gets trampled”

Sitting on the turrent of this tank,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00060_1.jpg)

I took the below picture, a wide angle stitched together shot  - apologies for the poor quality, but if I can describe.

As far as the eye can see, the little communities along the Longa river were going about their end-of-day business, washing clothes, bathing in the river…the kids playing in the water, the balmy air giving one a sense of well being.  The sound of laughter and singing filled the air.
I could not help but think of the elephant bull analogy, and how fortunate it was that the grass straigtened up, sprouted new roots and started growing again…a sense of sadness filled me - so much senseless violence when whole nations are led by their noses by puppet politicians and their generals, fuelled by propaganda from the puppetmasters, big business….food for thought.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00003_1.jpg)

We made Cuito Cuanavale late afternoon, and reported to the police station. The commander rocked up, and although hampered by the language barrier, we gathered that he wanted to know if we wanted a tour of the battlefields (if possible please), did we bring bibles (no…no packing space on the bikes),  we have to go see the administrator..and off we went.

The administrator was ill disposed, and could not grant us an interview, so went trooping off after the commander and his aide de camp, both off them on a 200cc Chinese single. Getting to sandy patches, the side kick would hop off smartly, push the commander through, and hop on…all of this with three 650cc thumpers in tow, falling over due to the slow pace.

I was not much into the battlefield tour, I needed to negotiate from the commander permission for a North - South passage.

Additional information would also be welcome, on Mapsource it looks like this..(A rough estimate, about the size of Mpumalanga, Gauteng and the Free State put together, quite big.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/RouteMapsource.jpg)

The yellow, a definate as it is the major route servicing the area, the pink “a to be confirmed” meaning it has been driven before, although information on it is virtually non existent. The “driven before” is also slightly off putting, I wanted something un-charted.

Obtaining some Russian intelligence maps on the area was a boon, with a combination of OziExplore, Google Earth and the custom map function on the Oregon 550, I was able to tranfer the information to my GPS, and came up with these alternatives…

MapSource looking a bit better, the Cyan being routes that existed before the war, and when overlayed with Google Earth, I could see in most places a feint line in the bush that might indicate some vehicle traffic…

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/FinalRoutesPre.jpg)
 
Armed with this info I approached the commander with my Russian map..apart from the Green and Purple, I had no idee if these routes actually still exist, or what the landmine situation is like…

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Routes.jpg)

I needed to know where I can find a “corredor de passagem segura”  a safe corridor, swept clean.

The blue route was promptly dismissed by the commander with an “ees bad, aqua!” (To much watercrosssing as it hugged the Cuito.)

The East – West stretch of the Orange was dismissed with “ees bad, BOOM BOOM!”, the facial expression and the flailing arms of the commander dispelled any doubt, BOOM BOOM is not a mobile disco on the side of the road.

The Green, according to the commander, “ees good” and it took me about half an hour to explain that wanting to ride offroad, “ees good” is not necessarily good, and “ees bad” can sometimes be “ees good”, a foreign concept to them, why make something more difficult than it allready is?

We eventually settled for a bit of Orange, circumventing the landmines by backtracking to the Longa river, a bit of blue, and a bit of purple, with a deviation (not on map) after Nankova.

Shaking on the deal:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00144_1.jpg)

That night we were allowed to pitch our camp behind the police station. A beer and some food saw us to our sleeping bags.

The next morning the commander managed some black market petrol for us (paid for duly, at a fair price) and we were ready.

We were waved on by the commander with an “It ees bad but ees good” blessing..
 
We left and found the turnoff…the start looked pleasant enough….

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00145_1.jpg)
 
but the commander’s “It ees bad but ees good!..”  were to mock us over the next 4 days.


Next up….

Going down South…forcing the issue!!
 

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Brakenjan on October 09, 2010, 11:48:53 am
This is awesome stuff!! Hats off to all three of you! Respect!!

Beserker, nice to see the Zaar in its natural habitat. What a bike?!  :biggrin:   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Laban on October 09, 2010, 01:18:31 pm


Job well done!! Thanks Guys, Respect! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BlueBull2007 on October 09, 2010, 03:12:45 pm
Loving it Berserker!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: JMOL on October 09, 2010, 05:57:01 pm
Eish!!!!

Wunderbar, wunderbar
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: sidetrack on October 09, 2010, 06:20:01 pm
Fantasties !
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: LouisXander on October 09, 2010, 06:41:34 pm
So n trip moet amazing wees!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: buzzlightyear on October 09, 2010, 08:01:41 pm
Can't wait for the rest  8)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Runner on October 09, 2010, 08:16:21 pm
Wil jy daai Caliper carrier hę? Skryf dan die fokken ding vinniger.Nou :biggrin:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Oshkosh on October 10, 2010, 06:08:34 am
Awesome RR !!  :thumleft:
can't wait for the rest
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: SGB on October 10, 2010, 04:05:10 pm
Great man, thanks for sharing.  Having been part of that Bible carrying girl crowd with the Landcruiser in tow, the proper way real men do things is appealing.  Looking forward to seeing the part that follows, would still like to go there one day too.   Salute! 8)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Jacko on October 10, 2010, 05:58:58 pm
Julle manne is hardcore.  :thumleft:

The more I think about it, the more I reckon that for a real self-sustained, bundu-bashing adventure ride a 650-ish single is the right choice.

Go bigger and a back-up vehicle is your only option.

What I like about you lot is that you're a bunch of Phillistines. Weird, older bikes and a healthy serving of "heeeeehah!" thrown in for good measure.

I salute you.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “três cavaleiros”
Post by: Woestersous on October 10, 2010, 06:13:58 pm
Jacko, da slaan jy die slingervel op sy kop! Die bike grootte, die attitude van die bikers, selfs die name, Daniel/David/Peter, die 3-wyse Filistyne !!! Ons kort net vir Goliat!

Respek manne.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Kat on October 10, 2010, 06:23:45 pm
very nice :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Oppad on October 10, 2010, 06:30:18 pm
What a magnificent trip! Well done.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: THROTTLE JOCKEY on October 10, 2010, 06:58:25 pm
Well done, Nice trip  :thumleft:  :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: EddieS on October 10, 2010, 07:13:56 pm
Respect!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 10, 2010, 11:29:44 pm
Having been part of that Bible carrying..

SGB...I was going to mail you the RR link the minute I posted the last installment..

Having read your RR just before I left, the "Tour of the Battlefields --> Do you have bibles --> we need to meet the Administrator" line of talk by the commander made me realise the good will that you and your team garnered , something that I was acutely aware of during our journey as well, being the first group of bikers in many places.

I hope that subsequent groups will realise common respect to the locals will pave the way to many successfull trips by fellow bikers, hopefully we will all build on the foundation you guys have laid.

The more I think about it, the more I reckon that for a real self-sustained, bundu-bashing adventure ride a 650-ish single is the right choice.

Spot on, and of the three, one stood out, but I will get to it.

To all the others sharing our journey, pls be patient, the last two installments to follow soon, with some surprises, little setbacks ...and ultimate ....  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: EtienneXplore on October 11, 2010, 07:38:17 am
To all the others sharing our journey, pls be patient, the last two installments to follow soon, with some surprises, little setbacks ...and ultimate ....  :thumleft:

Looking forward to it !!!

Brilliant so far  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Dustdevil on October 11, 2010, 08:49:02 am
I try read most reports on this forum but only once or twice a year does something remarkable come up.
It is not only the places that are explored but surely the teller of the stories and the man behind the camera. You do not need to be the greatest photographer to capture the real adventure. It is knowing when to stop and what subjects provide the most insight conveying the textures and lay of the land and it's people and how you fitted into all of this with your awkward noisy machines loaded full of funny, unnatural, and if you look carefully at it, impractical devices.
I read the "other" recent Angola report and although informative and interesting it lacked that sence of "I wanna be there.... NOW" (sorry SGB, maybe it was the addition of a back up car that killed the sense of adventure.)

Great work Berzerker and team. Being three on a trip like this is the lucky number.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: pielas on October 11, 2010, 11:18:56 am
Major great RR. cant wait for the coming part, hope you took a lot of pics. Was around Quito in '87, would like to see what it look like now.  All those T54's and BMP's next to the road, what a waste. Bring back memories.

It is really sad what was done to Angola in the past, superpowers using it as a place to make a point, regardless of the consequences to the locals.

Major respect to you guys, this is what it's about. Love the canyon pics, hope you add one to the photo competition, any one would get my vote.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: tau on October 11, 2010, 12:19:19 pm
oom Danie en Beserker en nommer3 baie goed.

Julle bewys dat dit gedoen kan word, MAAR as iemand hierdie report lees moet hulle tog besef julle KAN scooter ry en laat baie dele makliker lyk as wat dit rerig is.

Danie nou kan jy maar voortgaan en jou opinie lig jy het die credit en die T-shirt :imaposer:

Weereens very, very nice peter!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 11, 2010, 01:29:56 pm
Ag Tau, jy weet mos, ek lug my opinie al weet ek niks :imaposer:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 11, 2010, 01:41:23 pm
Ag Tau, jy weet mos, ek lug my opinie al weet ek niks :imaposer:



:toothy5:  Ten minste is jy redelik nederig vir iemand wat als weet    :oscar:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Huggels on October 11, 2010, 01:56:56 pm
Uitstekend  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: IDR on October 11, 2010, 02:00:31 pm
Ag Tau, jy weet mos, ek lug my opinie al weet ek niks :imaposer:

:toothy5:  Ten minste is jy redelik nederig vir iemand wat als weet    :oscar:

Fewer comments, more report!!!

;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: SGB on October 11, 2010, 09:33:23 pm
I read the "other" recent Angola report and although informative and interesting it lacked that sence of "I wanna be there.... NOW" (sorry SGB, maybe it was the addition of a back up car that killed the sense of adventure.)

Ouch that hurts man.  :'(    Us girls also need a bit of encouragement....  ;D    I deleted the rest of what I wanted to say.  Lets enjoy the report at hand.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: SGB on October 11, 2010, 09:39:19 pm
I hope that subsequent groups will realise common respect to the locals will pave the way to many successfull trips by fellow bikers, hopefully we will all build on the foundation you guys have laid.
Thanks for sharing that and building on the locals' positive experience of the "enemy".  I think this attitude can go a long way towards ending the war.  And it is opening up an amazing area for us to enjoy on our bikes.  I can't wait for the rest of your story!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Joyride on October 11, 2010, 11:00:14 pm
Miskien is ek uit die oude twatwaffle of sommer net 'n ou twatwaffle, maar dis die soort trip wat ek van hou. Klim op 'n thumper en rough it. Diktril!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Hondsekierie on October 12, 2010, 06:57:31 am
Thanks vir al die moeite met die verslag Beserker :thumleft:

Kan sien hierdie trip is nie vir die 'sagte' manne.

Vraag:  Hoe het julle beskikbaarheid van petrol bepaal in die verafgelee gebiede?  Neem aan julle het nie die heeltyd met full stock gery nie?  Is dit maar n kwessie van waar daar voertuie is moet daar petrol wees en dan begin vra of kon julle dit vooraf bepaal/ beplan?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: forex618 on October 12, 2010, 07:14:09 am
Was that an Apache chopper? Wonder what the story of that one was?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 12, 2010, 08:18:25 am
Vraag:  Hoe het julle beskikbaarheid van petrol bepaal in die verafgelee gebiede?  Neem aan julle het nie die heeltyd met full stock gery nie?  Is dit maar n kwessie van waar daar voertuie is moet daar petrol wees en dan begin vra of kon julle dit vooraf bepaal/ beplan?

Ons het gery op hoop..waar ons petrol kon kry, het ons volgemaak.

Die kapasiteit was so 50l per bike, wat afhangende van die terrein, jou so tussen 600 - 850 km kon gee.

Van die dele was daar nie voertuie nie, nie winkels nie...maar ons geheime wapen was die DR..alles in die volgende hoofstuk, behalwe my pc waarop ek dit gedoen het, het die gees gegee, :P en ek moes die laaste twee hoofstukke oorskryf..hoop om dit so middagete op te sit...

Soos hulle se, "Staan by!"   
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: KTM Jagermeister on October 12, 2010, 08:42:23 am
Die deel voel my gaan die interessantste wees ... Skryf blikemmer!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Fulltaps on October 12, 2010, 09:20:08 am
Ek, ek kannie my f..kin werk doen nie !! Kom Beserker, tik met 5 vingers... :laughing4:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Lourens ツ on October 12, 2010, 11:06:58 am
Awesome RR so far :thumleft:    This is another one of those I wished I could get in book format to read when I need inspiration!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: pielas on October 12, 2010, 12:44:04 pm
Was that an Apache chopper? Wonder what the story of that one was?
Sorry J-dog, No apache's in Angola. That was a  Mil Mi-24 ( Hind). 
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: ktmmer on October 12, 2010, 02:50:59 pm
Thanks for sharing!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: zetman on October 12, 2010, 06:34:15 pm
Lekr man eendag gan ek di trip nog doen mag ek vra wat mens moet budget vir so tipe trip en hoe lank het mens nodig om te doen
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: the_BOBNOB on October 12, 2010, 06:44:29 pm
waarop ek dit gedoen het, het die gees gegee, :P en ek moes die laaste twee hoofstukke oorskryf..hoop om dit so middagete op te sit...

Soos hulle se, "Staan by!"   

hoe laat eet jy middag ete ???
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 12, 2010, 07:13:41 pm
I have been struggling with this leg of the trip for some time now, for various reasons.

It does not lend itself to a “ we then went there and saw this, and then there and this happened” style, like the report done to date….for one, a lot of hard riding meant very few photographs, unfortunately.

Maybe worth to backtrack a bit to the planning phase..it is the area that took the most time in terms of my research, and I still managed to come up with zero, zilch, nada, nothing, zip.. it was as if my powers of Google deserted me.

Coming to Angola, each one of the team had a different aim, something to achieve, something specific apart from the trip as a whole.

For Danie, Langewand and Flamingo…and although the riding was not technically demanding, the topography was varied, the terrain was interesting and the riding superb.

For Pete, a keen historian with a pendant for historic battles, the area around Cuito Cuanevale was first prize…especially as it was his second bite at the cherry after a first, failed attempt about two years ago, on the self same DR650 he used on this trip.

For me, it was the unknown, a North South route from Cuito…it is unchartered, information obtained was mostly hearsay and dated, we were in for a real adventure of discovery.

The area itself, bordered by the Longa on the west, the Cuito to the East, defined as the Coutada Publica do Longa Mavinga, sees very little traffic, if at all (we saw none)

Looking at the map…we needed to get from Cuito to Nankova, sticking as close as possible to the blue North-South line . (The pink routes is what is used locally to connect Cuito to Menongue to Nankova – the known and used route)

The reason for the pink detour is primarily the area. Apart from the landmine problem, it was barely passable when we did it, I can imagine what the rainy season will do to it.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00037_1.jpg)
 

With no information available, it was decided that once we get to Cuito, we will see what we can find out, and make a call. At least a route via Mavinga has been investigated by SGB and crew http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=52625.0 , (Thank you SGB for your input) and if all else fails, will be an option.

Compounding the route issue from Cuito, on Google Earth, zooming in on Cuito, notice the “marble” effect surrounding the town..?

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00017_1.jpg)

It is this:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00001_1.jpg)

 

An aerial view of minefields… a sobering thought.

We were also at the tail end of a l-o-o-ng offroad trip, we were filthy, a bit knackered from riding everyday,  all day (apart from the day at Flamingo where we did the canyon tour).

Although the bikes were running without a hiccup, the ravages of nearly 2000 km of offroad was clearly visible, and one could not help but wonder how long before we need to do some servicing, an aspect that contributed to the mental stress at the onset of this, the most remote leg of the trip.

Well, there is no turning around, the border was 430 km away, as they say “On with it!!”

Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”




Day 10, 11 and 12 Cuito Cuanevale to Calai via Gung, Bio Longa, Vita Nova ad Arnada (Nankova) , Rito and Mavengue


At the start, I remember taking this photograph, thinking “This doesn’t look to bad, 430 km, a day, maybe a day and a half to civilisation, one night camping…yeeha!”

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00145_1.jpg)

It was not to be, you see the clump of trees on the horizon, passing through them the track proper hit us, the most horrendous, deep, foliating sand.

Getting to a firmer section, I stopped after about 40 km.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00022_1.jpg)
 
A quick inspection confirmed my worst fear, the terrain is causing my fuel to drop at an alarming rate..55 liters will not be enough for this 430km stretch.

Waiting for Danie and Peter to catch up,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00024_1.jpg)

We had a quick pow wow, and decided that we should push on another 20 km. Often on this trip, to date, just as we thought we had enough, the route took a turn for the better.  

As it turned out, it did not get better, and something to note…the track footprint was extremely wide, Land Cruisers don’t come here. The preferred mode of transport was the Kamaz 6x6 trucks, monster off road weapons.

I quickly discovered, skip the track, as soon as your speed allows for it, mount the “middelmannetjie” and stay on it. Falling of, and getting back on, resulted in a snaking across the road a couple of times. You would mount it with your front wheel, the back had a preference for the gutter, and once convinced to get up, the force would be so great that you would eject to the gutter on the other side, and everything would start over again.

Danie and Pete also had a power issue, there was just not enough to get them onto the “middelmannetjie” , and for the most part, they had to slug it out in the track gutter…

Another aspect of riding the gutter, the track saw very little use, probably just a few times per year, and was severely overgrown with thorn trees ripping at your forearms. The scars from these encounters are slowly healing even as I type…respect to Danie and Pete!

Viciously snaking side to side as we barreled down the road, some grim reminders to do our best and STICK TO THE ROAD!!

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00003_1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00002_1.jpg)

The going was hard, and engine temperatures was rocketing..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00004_1.jpg)

We were forced to stop every so often.

We tried to limit stopping, as stopping was a violent affair of sliding around when you went from floating at speed over the sand to sinking in again..often resulting in having to pick the bike up afterwards.

Pulling away was also a matter of standing still in first, kicking up sand, moving forward slowly in second, and eventually floating the bike once you hit third..consuming petrol like a whale does seawater in it’s hunt for plankton..in our case, the minuscule plankton gains being distance per liter of petrol.

Stopping also bought back memories from long ago, something that everybody that spent time in Northern Namibia during their National Service would remember…”muggies”. In their quest for moisture, they would swarm around you incessantly, and no orifice is safe from them, nose, ears and particularly eyes were favorite targets.

Sticking to the “middelmannetjie”, talk about target fixation…I did not notice our distance covered, and the original 20km further-on checkpoint decided on during our brief regrouping at the 40km mark was overshot…we were 80km into the route when I woke up to it, and a decision was academic..we would not be able to make it back to either Menongue or Cuito on our fuel, and none of us had any wish to cover the track back again anyway.

Being overly optimistic, we decided to push on to Biaxo Longa..surely the black market..?

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00014_1.jpg)

Small but sucking you to a standstill cotton soil water crossings:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00015_1.jpg)
 
We arrived at Biaxo Longa late afternoon (the photograph a shot from the hip effort, the Chefe de Administration not being very keen on us taking photographs), the ravages of war still clearly visible.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00018_1.jpg)

The Commander of the Army from Cuito has somehow established contact with Biaxo Longa, and in no uncertain terms put it to them to extend some courtesy.

We were offered a bathroom, slightly chilly, but the water was clean and refreshing after a day that saw the temperature in the mid to high thirties, and being next to the wetlands, humidity was off the charts.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00019_1.jpg)

(Now, now ladies)

Also on offer, the school classroom where we spent the night.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00005_1.jpg)

But unfortunately no “Gasolina” (petrol) nor a shop for food…Nankova, some 132km to the south, is where the logistics supply line stopped. We were assured that we will get sorted there..if we make it, I thought, we were running dangerously low on fuel.

Distance for the day 165km, and it was not as if we were idle, we did some hard riding, all day.

Speaking to the locals we were told that since the war, the landmine cleaning people came and went, Unicef did a census regarding tribe, language being spoken and food cultivated, and at some stage a German mining engineer came past..since then, nothing from the outside. Some of the teenage children in the village has seen neither a bike, nor a white man, for that matter.

Next morning saw us packing up, and taking our leave after thanking the town..only to be stumped 2km down the road by a shot up bridge.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00007_1.jpg)

No amount of moving hardware round could bridge the final gap..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00006_1.jpg)
 
We ended up downriver where the river is slightly wider and more shallow, with a makeshift litter, added some local muscle, and went manual…check the general on the left giving orders..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00020_1.jpg)

Soon we were on our way, and by now I started seriously re-thinking my original estimate of how long it will take us to complete this final stretch.

We had to make Nankova, either by bike, or walking…not a pleasant thought.

Although there were plenty of Y-junctions, we soon realized they were there due to seasonal changes of the shona..they all join up ahead somewhere and we did not bother waiting for each other (and entertaining the “muggies”). If you miss the spoor of the guy in front of you, hang in there, you will intersect it again.

Some pics, you will notice mostly of water crossings, in line with our policy of avoiding stopping and starting as far as possible. We did stop at obstacles, like water crossings, where we took the precaution of walking.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00021_1.jpg)

Lekka by the beach…check the sand!

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00023_1.jpg)

Some water crossings, especially the deep muddy ones were more tricky than others.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00025_1.jpg)

To aid grip for truck tires, loads of tree trunks were dumped into the crossing. These were waterlogged, under the surface and slippery as glass. Getting stuck was a common occurrence, getting over them tricky, it was not just a matter of getting the stuck wheel unstuck as in the process, the other wheel would get stuck. Endless amusement to whoever was on the embankment, especially if you made it to the other side already.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00008_1.jpg)

Our final crossing, about 50m long, walking it first.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00010_1.jpg)

On average about knee deep,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00012_1.jpg)
 
then a little island,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00011_1.jpg)
 
and then the final channel about 3m or so of thigh deep water.

Pete made it, then me..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00013_1.jpg)
 
(Danie censoring the water prowess of the Zaar by selective cropping)

And then huh – huh…Danie.

The bike stalled mid –stream, giving us all a huge fright.

I especially felt bad as there was a detour (40km give or take) available, but being the most hard up for petrol, I insisted on the crossing. Worst case scenarios played of in my head as I raced in to assist.

Fortunately, only the electrics, which dried out within ten minutes, giving us time to interact with the community on the far bank.

The Suzuki is frugal on petrol..me running out of fuel just before Nankova, and Danie about to, we did some re-distribution of wealth (we as Seffricans are used to it). With me and Danie receiving a transfusion, we made Nankova without incident

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00009_1.jpg)

Amid great excitement among the locals we were summoned to the Administration
Building. A little perplexed (it did seem like a welcoming committee of sorts), we did as we were told, and reported to the big new administration block.

Being the seat of Municipality for the area, we were received by the Chefe de Secretiat, the Chefe de Administration, and being in the midst of a by-election, the chief  of the Electoral committee, all aided by their 2IB’s, an interpreter and a few others with interest in the procedures….except the police, they were told by the beurocrats to f-off in a manner that I thought

Crammed into an office the size of a single garage, with no air-conditioning, the Chefe de Secretiat launched into a welcoming address, painfully slowly translated by the interpreter as the sweat started running down my back, only to be interrupted by a telephone ringing of the hook.

The Chefe de Secretiat immediately answered, putting us all on hold, when the second telephone started ringing, at which the Chefe passed the first call on to the Chefe de Administration, quite comically as the office was so full of people, the instruments were passed from hand to hand.

With both Chefe’s booming down the line, every now and again looking at us, we were informed by the interpreter that it is the provincial chefes of Mavinga and Cuito enquiring about our health and progress, and once again their welcome was translated to us.

We were told that they were honored to have us as visitors, how important tourism would be for the area etc. etc. …and we responded by saying how honored we are as visitors to be there, and how appreciative we were of the welcome.

Just as I thought I was about to pass out in this sauna of an office, the welcoming ceremony came to an end, and we rushed outside as fast as possible, gaping for air.

The two chefes:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00028_1.jpg)

Inquiring about petrol and some provisions, we were referred to Mr. Papa..for anybody planning to visit Nankova, make a note..Mr. Papa would be your go-to guy if your wallet is in need of some weighless.

Mr. Papa’s monopolistic empire encompasses everything that you would need, black market petrol, provisions and beer at a price that recognizes that there are no other options available.

Taking charge of everything himself..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00026_1.jpg)

He sold us some beers, tinned food and 45liters of petrol. We paid K$ 12 000.00 for the petrol, about 3 times the normal price of petrol in Angola.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00027_1.jpg)

No amount of haggling could bring the price down. We were to learn that the petrol comes from Rundu, via makoro, in drums, and then transported to Nankova by private means. Considering the roads, and the fact that petrol in Namibia is about double the price compared to Angola, not a bad price. Considering our dire fuel situation, positively cheap, in retrospect.

We were invited to stay the night, unfortunately Mr. Papas biggest success story is his shebeen/disco, and the number of inebriated patrons hanging around made up our minds..we filled up, bade the kind people of Nankova adieu , and took our leave.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 12, 2010, 07:14:28 pm
Regrouping outside Nankova

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00029_1.jpg)
 
We decided to push on until we find a suitably remote spot, make camp and have supper.

About 12 km later, the spot:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00030_1.jpg)

The view across the Cuito floodplains, reminiscent of Northern Botswana and the Okavango, but with less mosquitoes.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00031_1.jpg)

That night we pitched tents for the second time on the trip, for no other reason that the tree that we choose to camp under had a cricket ball sized fruit, as hard and slightly heavier. Obviously in season, they kept falling around us throughout the night, striking our kit with a solid “thud” every now and again.

Our distance for the day..and keep in mind we rode all day, starting at dawn, 132km.

The next morning, about to be off, and in high spirits as we reckoned we will make Calais by nightfall, we encountered the first traffic of this stretch, a Land Cruiser coming from the South.

The driver confirmed that the road, which improved a lot over the 12 km from Nankova, will stay like this, provided we follow it via Licua, Lumeto, Benjengue and then backtracking to Calais, thus confirming what we were told by Mr. Papa.

Asked about going due south from Mavengue, a track that shows up on my Russian map, and that I could see on Google Earth, he rolled his eyes…”Ees very bad”

Ha!, have we heard this before?  Even though a regular transport rider in this area, he could not compare it with the route north of Nankova as he has never ventured there before, he did reiterate though..”Ees very bad”

The difference were quite big, the detour would add approximately 100km to a 200km stretch, a huge consideration when taking into account that we have spent our last K$ at Mr. Papa..and the likelihood of finding more petrol en route was slim.

Some pics.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00032_1.jpg)
 
Being a regular supply route, bridges rather than water crossings.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00033_1.jpg)

Road improved quite a bit…some stretches could even be classified “very good.”

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00035_1.jpg)

The meandering Cuito..for the first time on this stretch we could actually look around as opposed to concentrate 100% on the track.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00034_1.jpg)
 
We made good time, passing Mavengue at the 128 km mark just before lunch.

From the driver of the Land Cruiser, we were led to believe the turn off onto the due south shortcut to Calais is about 16 km before Mavengue, even though on my map it shows after. Mavengue came up and no turn off…not wanting to waste petrol by getting lost, I rode into Mavengue, and inquired.

Indeed, the turn off is about 16km after Mavengue, and I realized from the Land Cruiser drivers perspective, coming from the south..the turn off is before, lol.

It is just one example of things getting lost in translation, often we found that when inquiring about a distance to somewhere from a local, they would double up the distance, i.e. for them to go from where they are at Point A to Point B (15km away)  would require a 30km journey…you have to get back, not?

So…16km came and went..at 24km we got to a turn off, and on my GPS it showed Calais, due south, as the crow flies, 67km.

A quick peek into my Acerbis..I might just make it provided the track is not to bad, I knew Danie to be in the same boat, but Pete should be fine.

Waited on them, and when they caught up, swung South.

No pictures, suffice to say it was everything the Northern section was, and then some!

You had to focus 100%, difficult as we were already fatigued to the point of exhaustion, the heat was nearly unbearable and having left the riverbank about 30km back,  water was nearly depleted and rationed.

In this state we started ploughing through thorn trees and thick sand whoops with only one thought…keep that bearing south, and make for Calais.

With about 20km to go, Pete called a halt, and demanded the last tin of sardines…three precious little sardines which he wolfed down in minutes, and off we went.

It felt forever, and the remaining distance decreased to 15 km when I, riding in front, lost the track. Being ahead somewhat, I turned around, and promptly lost my own spoor. After about 800m I stopped, switched off my engine and listened for Danie and Pete.

A few minutes later I could hear them in the distance, first approaching, and then fading. As anybody would tell you, gauging direction in these circumstances is virtually impossible, but I could hear distinctly the two engines, and knowing Pete has a GPS that although useless without track information, should be able to guide them south, and thus to Calais.

Deciding f!ckit, I broke the rule of waiting for them as they definitely passed me in the distance, and once again swung around and headed due south bundu bashing. Fortunately I came across a track heading slightly south south east in the general direction of Calais, and took it.

I followed this till I intersected the main Calais – Cuanger road, and turned left to Calais, stopping at all the villages and asking them that should they see 2 bikers, to tell them that I am safe, and that once in Calais, will turn around and come look for them.

Entering Calais, one finds the Police station on the right, where I presented myself with my passport. I was still telling them about the fact that I’m not alone, and that I need to turn around to go look for my mates, when I heard a familiar roar, and running out of the station, saw Pete streaking down the main road, with Danie in hot pursuit.

As it turns out, they intersected my tracks, and followed it to the main road..all’s well that ends well.

The police, after a perfunctory check of our passports, realized our general condition, and escorted us to a hotel run by locals. Although decent and clean, we had no K$, only US$.

In the south of Angola, people have no issue with N$, and will gladly exchange it for K$...but US$ is something else. As it was dark by now, banks were closed, some food and a cold one depended on the proprietor of the hotel willing to exchange some US$.

Danie keeping a beady eye on the negotiations..nothing was going to get between him and a cold one, with something solid on the side..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00016_1.jpg)

Being escorted, and vouched for by the Chefe de Police allayed the owner of the hotel’s fears, and he exchanged 20US$..enough for a round, and some food afterwards.

The police also provide us with sleeping quarters, an unused tent,  where Pete promptly hit the sack,

Me and Danie, sitting outside the tent in darkness, looking out over the Kavango to Rundu’s lights on the opposite bank, chatted for a while, discussing the trip…followed suit soon after.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00036_1.jpg)
 
Lying in my sleeping bag, I was well chaffed…made it!


Next up….
Homeward Bound….not!


Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: SGB on October 12, 2010, 07:37:11 pm
Wow, great!  Respect....  :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: the_BOBNOB on October 12, 2010, 08:36:05 pm
man o man - to many photos of oom 2stroke in sy onderbroek :puke_r:

 :peepwall:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Heimer on October 12, 2010, 09:53:53 pm
Fantastic trip

 :thumleft:

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Dustdevil on October 12, 2010, 10:53:48 pm
Great respect for you guys forging a new route. I am sure many will follow in your footsteps in the future.
Fantastic story. Wish I was there, HPN and all.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 12, 2010, 11:11:36 pm
No Bob man, that is suppose to turn the girls on :imaposer:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 12, 2010, 11:19:13 pm
Wil jy daai Caliper carrier hę? Skryf dan die fokken ding vinniger.Nou :biggrin:

Ek wou hom koop, maar siende dat jy dit so stel...done, geskryf...is hy fokken oppad?   ;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 12, 2010, 11:31:58 pm
Lekr man eendag gan ek di trip nog doen mag ek vra wat mens moet budget vir so tipe trip en hoe lank het mens nodig om te doen

Apart from prepping a bike, and getting you and your gear to the Angolan border, a lot cheaper than you would think..for one, petrol is about R5.00 per liter, there are no shops(you eat a tin or 2 per day), there is no camping, you sleep where you get (it is safe)...about  5k incl the visa.

We also stayed at Flamingo for two nights, included, we were all pretty much on a shoe string budget.

We left the 3rd of September, were back on the 23rd...had it not been for me, we would have been back sooner, but more on that to come.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 12, 2010, 11:40:23 pm
Great respect for you guys forging a new route. I am sure many will follow in your footsteps in the future.
Fantastic story. Wish I was there, HPN and all.

I know you want to do it...why are you waiting  :pot:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 13, 2010, 07:53:50 am
GREAT RR :thumleft:

On a side note - I see I have just become a senior member :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Hondsekierie on October 13, 2010, 08:21:22 am
All I can say is respect for your adventurous spirits.  Ain't that what real men are about?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: africanSky on October 13, 2010, 08:59:15 am
Amazing! A real adventure.

It's amazing how much time we as members devote to discussing what the best bike is, then you get a report like this and it really reinforces that it's not about the bike - it's about the rider and his/her spirit of adventure. It's also amazing how good the slightly "older tech" machines are. Will adventures like this start a trend away from the monster high tech DS bikes?

Well done guys!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 13, 2010, 09:06:45 am
It's also amazing how good the slightly "older tech" machines are.

We were discussing it during the trip...one of the guys, and I won't mention names as somebody might construe it as XT bashing  :deal:, bought a bike, done a few trips prior to this one, kitted it out, and made the trip without a hiccup - cost of this trip incl., for less than R35k (and he gets to keep the bike, which is in no worse state than before the trip) ...so there is no excuse to go out, ride and enjoy   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Operator on October 13, 2010, 10:02:24 am
Thanks Dave..............nice report............I'm glued to the screen.

< Subscribed >
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 13, 2010, 10:35:48 am
Thanks Dave..............nice report............I'm glued to the screen.

< Subscribed >

To you and all the others, a pleasure...and a type of thank you to all those and their ride reports that motivates.

The whole thing, buying a DS bike, migrating from racing to this type of riding actually came about the day I discovered the Wild Dog forum, and the first trip report I read:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=10359.0

I realized the fun:

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=15758.0

Both stood out, and I am pleased to see they both made the roll of honor.

Anycase, 1 episode to go...but fark, switching on to work, and catching up, probably the most difficult part of a trip.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: mountainboy on October 13, 2010, 12:08:17 pm
It's also amazing how good the slightly "older tech" machines are.

We were discussing it during the trip...one of the guys, and I won't mention names as somebody might construe it as XT bashing  :deal:, bought a bike, done a few trips prior to this one, kitted it out, and made the trip without a hiccup - cost of this trip incl., for less than R35k (and he gets to keep the bike, which is in no worse state than before the trip) ...so there is no excuse to go out, ride and enjoy   :thumleft:

wise words for such a young man  :mwink:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Frohan Visser on October 13, 2010, 01:39:33 pm
Respect to all 3 of you!!!
Thanks for a nice bit of reading Beserker!!
Eks bly julle 3 is veilig terug!

Oor en uit!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: popipants on October 13, 2010, 03:07:41 pm
wow what an epic ride, the doodsaker was the least of your problems!!!
That sand looks a handful!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Tankwa on October 13, 2010, 05:38:26 pm
Thanks for sharing your epic journey.  Fantastic !  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: funacide on October 13, 2010, 05:43:00 pm
Absolutely loving this, I had serious reservations about visiting Angola, but have now definitely added it to the bucket list. Your perspective on the place is awesome. Thanks for all the effort in sharing. You are making life worth it to dream of the next trip

 :headbang: :headbang: :headbang: :wav: :wav:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: tour on October 13, 2010, 06:22:43 pm
hey beserker
die trip lyk crazy, julle 3 manne moet maar vas hou want lyk my julle ballas is so groot dit raak aan julle knee.                                              mucho respecto cavaleiros  :thumleft:
real hardcore stuff
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Geotraveller on October 13, 2010, 06:30:44 pm
Just missed my dinner due to reading this twice!!

Awesome stuff and an inspiration

Thanks for sharing!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Biesie on October 13, 2010, 09:39:13 pm
Brilliant stuff ! Man I miss my XT. Wat se tyres het julle op die XT en die DR gehad?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: domstes on October 13, 2010, 10:26:21 pm
I do not like reports like this. It makes me feel like a real limp dick.  :eek7:

One day when I am big I shall do something resembling this.

Brilliant guys! Love the report!!  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: KTM BIGGER on October 14, 2010, 02:09:11 am
lekker....wish i can some day do this
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 14, 2010, 07:46:58 am
Biesie, my XT600E het n 130/90 Pirelli Rallycross MT21 agterop, en n 90/90 Pirelli Rallycross MT21 voorop gehad. Die Suzuki het n Mitas, weet nie watter een nie, opgehad[Watkykjy, vertel die mense watter tyres jy opgehad het!!] Die slytasie tempo van die Pirelli en die Mitas was identies, oor presies dieselfde afstand en terrein.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Biesie on October 14, 2010, 08:27:32 am
Biesie, my XT600E het n 130/90 Pirelli Rallycross MT21 agterop, en n 90/90 Pirelli Rallycross MT21 voorop gehad. Die Suzuki het n Mitas, weet nie watter een nie, opgehad[Watkykjy, vertel die mense watter tyres jy opgehad het!!] Die slytasie tempo van die Pirelli en die Mitas was identies, oor presies dieselfde afstand en terrein.

 :thumleft: :thumleft:

Julle moet asb aan die einde 'n bietjie van 'n opsomming gee oor die voorbereiding van die fietse  ???
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 14, 2010, 09:30:40 am
Biesie, my XT600E het n 130/90 Pirelli Rallycross MT21 agterop, en n 90/90 Pirelli Rallycross MT21 voorop gehad. Die Suzuki het n Mitas, weet nie watter een nie, opgehad[Watkykjy, vertel die mense watter tyres jy opgehad het!!] Die slytasie tempo van die Pirelli en die Mitas was identies, oor presies dieselfde afstand en terrein.

 :thumleft: :thumleft:

Julle moet asb aan die einde 'n bietjie van 'n opsomming gee oor die voorbereiding van die fietse  ???

Dissie plan...ons het almal wakker geskrik so week voor die tyd.

Het gedink toe ons die trip aanvanklik beplan het, om die voorbereiding te dokumenteer..maar om jou 'n clue te gee, die Saterdag voor ons Vrydag vertrek, het Danie 'n al 'n jerrycan by Gideon gbe-bum-- die som totaal van sy voorbereiding.

Pete se bladders was eers die Woensdag uitgesorteer, my GPS en battery het ek dit begin in-wire toe Pete al met sy bakkie en trailer deur my hek kom het om my op te laai.

Soos dit is, ek het my petrol sisteem oor my bike gehang die oggend met ons vertrek, vir die eerste keer...die eerste keer volgemaak op Ruacana net voor oms oor die grens is...'n lek sou katastrofiese gewees het.  ;D

Daar was 'n verwoede ge-sweis en ge - timmer met die deadline wat nader kruip, beslis nie tyd vir die dokumenteering nie  :P

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 14, 2010, 11:58:26 pm
Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”




Day 13 and 14 Calais to Nkurenkuru via Guangar, Calais, Guangar, the Caila ferry, Katwitwi

Waking up in Calais we were eager to get going, one more day to Namibia and as far as possible to Opuwo, the next to Opuwo and packing up, the next…home. After a long, hard ride, a warm shower, clean clothes a soft bed and a warm body next to you sounds good…just the matter of sorting out a bit of fuel, as always.

Speaking to the Chefe de Police, no fuel in Calais, but in Rundu, on the other side of the Kavango…plenty. The fact that the Kavango is an international border is a small technicality best be ignored, according to the Chefe.

H personally escorted us to the riverbank, and argued our case with the Police de Fonterra (Border police) and they, being practically minded, immediately saw the merit in a cross border excursion. They did warn me though…once there and should any issue arise, they would not be able to help.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/IMG_1638.jpg)
 
The Chefe then went the extra step beyond, commandeering the police motorboat, he took me across the river to show me where the best place would be to nip across.

Cross border excursion, but from a different direction:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/P9170411.jpg)

 Landing on the other side, trying to look inconspicuous, I made my way to Rundu, got to a bank, withdrew some funds, bought beer and petrol, and made my way back…dirty as hell, with tights and motocross boots, being inconspicuous is rather difficult. It felt as if everybody was staring.

Regardless, in no time at all, I was making my way back.

From the Rundu side:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00003_1-1.jpg)
 
Slow boat to Calais.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00004_1-1.jpg)

Mission successful.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00005_1-1.jpg)
 
Notice the plastic bag with the beer..more on that later.

I noticed that I lost the bolt on my kickstarter..’n boer maak ‘n plan…we quickly opened the beers and fabricated the necessary washer.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00006_1-1.jpg)

Filling up, we had the beer and took our leave, biding our friends at the police station goodbye, and hitting the road to Guangar.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00007_1-1.jpg)
 
The 150km went quick, after the Cuito to Calais stretch, the road was almost hypnotically easy..some pics.

Initially some sand,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00008_1-1.jpg)
 
The floodplains

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00009_1-1.jpg)

Heavenly..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00010_1-1.jpg)

It was still hot as hell..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00011_1-1.jpg)

And the beer once we got to Guangar welcome..Pete looking very much like we all felt:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00012_1-1.jpg)

From here it was about 40km to Katwitwi, and the Namibian border.

Hitting the police station as we exited Guangar, we realised that apart from the border, this will probably be the last time we will need to show our passports in Angola. With high spirits we made idle chit chat with the police.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00013_1-1.jpg)

At the inevitable “passporte?” we got our bags out…and my passport was gone.
Frantically tipping out my meagre belongings, scratching around, I couldn’t find it..

Retracing my steps, the last time I had it was when I nipped across the border. Coming back, I stuck it in the plastic bag with the beer in order to be able to carry the jerry cans…remember the plastic bag I had in my hand disembarking from the makoro?

The bag I gave to Peter whilst helping Danie to fill up the bikes. Peter took the bag, opened the beers and handed it to us. As I was fixing my kick-starter, Peter collected the empties…”Peter..?”

He took the empties, put it in the bag without looking, and dumped it…my credit card and everything was in there.

To say I was cheesed of is an understatement, I was livid with myself..the conversation went something like this:

Me: “Fuckit, Fuckit, Fuckit!!”
Danie: “Whats wrong..?”
Me: “My fucking passport is gone, Fuckit, Fuckit, Fuckit,!
Peter:”You have to go fetch it.”
Me: “Fuckit!”
Peter: “You won’t be able to go on without it…”
Me: “Fuckit, fuck this place, fuck going back..I’m going to find myself a fucking makoro and row myself and my bike over this fucking river, fuck the border control, tonight I want to be in Nam eating a fucking burger and chips..”

I don’t know where the burger came in, most likely the fact that I have had either bovine intestines from a tin, or sardines from a tin for the last two weeks..the prospect of riding back to Calais when the border is like an hour away..so close, so far.

Also going back to Calais is not as simple as it sounds…I will need to do the whole “fetch petrol from Rundu” thing again..we got up early this morning, fetched the petrol, fuelled up and drove here..it was after four allready..it is not a simple matter of driving a 300km round trip…this is Angola after all.

Pete saved me from my insanity by stating “It is fine…I’ll go and fetch it..” (He is crazy enough) but I realised that I can’t shift the responsibility..it was my mistake.

We quickly stripped the DR of it’s luggage, siphoned of petrol from my XR, and off I went, as Pete went for a swim…crazy…check who he was sharing the water with.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00028_1-1.jpg)

Darkness caught me about 30km from Guangar, with a 120km to go, I did not look forward to this night time trip…Africa is not called the “Dark Continent” for nothing..it is pitch black out there.

The DR also does not have the brightest of lights, and after hitting the fourth pothole at speed, I remembered that the bike is stripped of everything…I had no tools with me, not even a puncture repair kit. A flat now would be disastrous.

I stopped, had a smoke and chilled while listening to the night sounds around me…when I got back on the bike, I was at ease, unhurried and took it slow.

Riding the sand was all right, I stayed super smooth, the floodplains we crossed earlier was problematic. It is vast, and if you drift off the track, you end up driving in circles till you find (hopefully) the correct one…my GPS was still on the XR, stupid.

I made Calais just after 11 that night, and was greeted by the policemen on duty with “our brother, our brother!”

The greeting, and the solitude of a solo night ride turned the perceived “fuckin’ mission” into something that I really enjoyed after all was said and done.

I immediately found the plastic bag in the dustbin (it was the only contents)

Our interpreter from the previous day escorted me to a shop where he convinced the proprietor to open up for me, and not having any money whatsoever, to accept my helmet and goggles as security till the next morning after I have come back from Rundu.

The Chefe de Police offered me his office, I ate off his desk and slept on the floor, on a spare mattress he provided.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00014_1-1.jpg)

After dinner (and I had to take a pic…one often sees this type of  pic in ride reports, although the surroundings tend to be more "larney") I sat outside on the stoep with the police on duty.

We had a quick competition to see who could dismantle and assemble an AK47 the fastest…I was more rusty than I thought and losing got stale and after about the third time, we  all lost interest. With the language barrier, conversation was limited.  I just sat in the cool night air and listened to them chatting, feeling at peace with myself, longing for my wife and kids who seemed so far away right then.

Knowing the ropes, I was up at just before sunrise the next morning, and took this pic from my bedroom as the night turned to that pre-dawn grey ..

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00015_1-1.jpg)

Making my way down to the river, I roused a makoro captain from his slumber, and as the sun broke over the horizon, we were on our way across the Kavango. An added advantage of being this early.. neither the Police de Fonterra, nor the Immigration officials has risen yet, and I circumvented the beurocratic red tape.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00016_1-1.jpg)

Getting to Rundu was a slog, no traffic, no lift and I had to walk all the way, carrying a twenty litre drum that the interpreter managed to hustle from somewhere.

Once again, got to the ATM, got some money, got to the garage and filled up the drum. As I was was paying, I noticed a stain appearing under the drum…damn, it was punctured, and to compound matters, the lid did not seal properly. Keeping a finger on the puncture and the drum upright as there was nothing I could do to the lid, I started the slog back to the river, with the drum in the “hoog-voor”.

Walking past a thorn tree, a brain fart, and I stuck a huge thorn into the puncture, some plastic litter next to the side of the road and a seal for the litter was fabricated, things were looking up.

The drum was still in the “hoog-voor” position, but at least the petrol stopped dribbling over me. With about 3km to go, just as I was starting to sweat it, and my back muscles feeling that it was going to spontaneously combust from carrying the drum, a kind soul pulled up and offered me a lift to the river…he had no issue with me getting into his car with a leaking petrol drum, smelling of sweat and the petrol that has been dribbling over my clothes…I hope I have the presence of mind to do it as well to someone in need one day.

I was back, the DR filled up, saying goodbye to the police by 7h30. They all took turns to make sure that I had my passport on me, and I left to settle my account and collect my helmet from the shop as it opened at eight.

A quick coke to quench the first, and I was on my way to Guangar, once again the solitude of riding solo, deciding my own pace and not needing to stop was good for the soul.

Some pics en route:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00017_1-1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00018_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00019_1-1.jpg)

Back in Guangar, Danie and Pete worried sick…yeah sure!

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00021_1-1.jpg)

A beer and some “Lunch Loaf” (the aforementioned bovine intestines, a bit like poor quality Bully Beef) and I had to rest my eyes.

The previous night I couldn’t ride with my goggles as it was tinted, and collected “muggies” all the way. Coming back this morning, the white sand and strain from concentrating on the road ahead at speed, strained my eyes. It felt a bit like snow blindness, and I couldn’t look out in the sun without my goggles.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00026_1-1.jpg)

Having time on their hands they Danie and Pete walked about, took some pics. As anywhere in Angola, the Portuguese influence, although dilapidated, clearly visible.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00030_1-1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00031_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00029_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00035_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00034_1-1.jpg)

Pete can tell you more about this memorial, and the massacre it commemorates.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00032_1-1.jpg)
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00033_1-1.jpg)

Interestingly..it had a wreath of fresh flowers.

Some graffiti, back in Unita country, whilst most of the travelling was done in areas was definitely MPLA.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00036_1-1.jpg)
 
Unita flag.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00037_1-1.jpg)

Still life with DR:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00020_1-1.jpg)

After a few more beers I was ready to go, and we hit the road…me back on the XR, what a relief.

Making way to Katwitwi, this little church. Apart from a few Roman Catholic facilities, one of two I saw:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00025_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00024_1-1.jpg)

Just before Katwitwi, you cross Kavango with the Caila ferry.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00023_1-1.jpg)

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00022_1-1.jpg)

After the ferry, about 13 km to the border post, and the usual checking out, checking in drag, taking about an hour and a half.

A late lunch on the Namibian side, which seemed so near a day and a half ago….NAMIBIA!! what a relief.

I made straight for Nkurenkuru, typical men, Pete and Danie took their sweet time about it  :deal: , making it at dusk. Not wanting to carry on in the dark, we asked around and were directed to the Muharwa guest house, just behind the municipal buildings…to be recommended.

Although basic, it was clean, the dining room had a small bar with beer, the food was great (chicken and rice…at long last something that did not make it's way to us via a tin)

The proprietor and her son, their staff was hospitable and we enjoyed ourselves.

That night, starting with a feint rumble but quickly growing into a full-on artillery barrage, my stomach went into revolt. Apart from the bread, tinned sardines and beer I had in Calais, I had nothing that Pete and Danie did not have…maybe I’m just the more sensitive type. Quite knackered from my Calais to Guangar triple plus the bit from Guangar to Nkurenkuru, about 530km, the last thing I needed was this.

Regardless, I spent the night on the throne, eventually falling asleep there (do you want more detail?) , thankful that at least we were out of the bush, and loving that piece of porcelain to bits.

Day 15 Nkurenkuru to Opuvu

True to form, the next morning Danie and Pete were up and about early, eager to get going.

The intention was to make Opuvu in a single push (733km), and from there to Aussicht, a further 70km.

Me on the other hand, was less eager, I still had a love affair going with the toilet….besides, even on a good day, 800km is a lot on the XR.

I tried explaining to Danie, but a curt “It’s all in the mind..” saw me mounting up, and off we went.

I had the jodhpurs I was riding with, as well as shorts over it; taking in consideration my current intestinal control, I thought it prudent to not wear both, and I stashed my shorts for later, just in case. I was immediately dubbed Fart Vader by Danie..nice.

The road back was long and typical of the white Namibian highways we all know.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00001_1-2.jpg)

Dropping into Opuwo from the east, we were treated to a most stunning sunset.

We made town as darkness fell, in dire need of fuel:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00002_1-2.jpg)
 
The last 70km we did in the dark, and as the turn off to Aussicht is poorly marked, totally dependant on the GPS.

It was a miserable ride..throughout the day, I had a cold fever, and the last kilometres that night saw me freezing.

I was counting the kilometres down, it was as it will never end, the road just kept on and on. Ask anybody that has done the route from Sesfontein to Opuwo, it is a notorious dust trap, and it hung like mist in the cold air, necessitating us riding about 2km apart, just so that we could see.

Funnily enough, maybe because it was still early evening, quite a few cars coming from the front, and when they pass you, it was like being in a white-out that saw us running of the road….dangerous business.

About a km before the turn off, stupidly doubting the accuracy of the GPS, with my eyes darting between the GPS and the side of the road, I did not notice the cow in front of me till nearly to late..hitting the brakes hard caused my engine to stall, in the process killing my front light and all I heard in the dark night was this huge bellow, I felt the thud and then the pitch blackness around me.

I was still seated on the bike, fortunately I was going slow, not more than 40 at the time. I kick-started the bike, and with it, my light came on…in front of me laid the cow in the road, and I thought “Oh shit..”

I remember reading in the paper, waiting for Pete to finish our grocery shopping in  Oshakati, that the traditional leaders of Namibia at a national conference lamented the fact that in Namibia the penalty for stock theft is more harsh than that for murder…

In front of me laid the friggin cow, and I wondered what the penalty for stock murder was. I pushed my bike back, gave the cow a wide berth, and carried on, hoping that Danie and Pete would notice it and not crash into it, but sure as hell I was not going to hang around and wait for an aggrieved owner.

As it turned out, by the time Danie and then Pete came past, the cow was gone..traveling slowly and hitting her from the side, I hopefully just winded it.

Praise modern technology, when my countdown timer on the GPS said 6m…lo and behold, the feint turn off to Aussicht on the left.

We raced up the mountain, found a camping spot, got our gear off and had a fire going within minutes..Pete went ”bos” in the Oshakati Spar..we braai-ed pork chops, lamb tjops, steak..made fresh “salad”  - a meal fit for a king, which of course saw me sleeping on the throne that night as my stomach went into immediate revolt…

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00003_1-2.jpg)


Next up….
The long road stateside..a post mortem and an executive overview by Pete..

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “três cavaleiros”
Post by: Woestersous on October 15, 2010, 05:50:54 am
Piele :-)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “três cavaleiros”
Post by: Diesel & Dust on October 15, 2010, 07:47:14 am
Piele :-)

+500

Hall of fame stuff :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “três cavaleiros”
Post by: mountainboy on October 15, 2010, 08:48:52 am
Beserker, beside being totally pissed off with yourself, I'm sure that one night alone with the police must be a trip highlight!!

Me: “Fuckit, Fuckit, Fuckit!!”
Danie: “Whats wrong..?”
Me: “My fucking passport is gone, Fuckit, Fuckit, Fuckit,!
Peter:”You have to go fetch it.”
Me: “Fuckit!”
Peter: “You won’t be able to go on without it…”
Me: “Fuckit, fuck this place, fuck going back..I’m going to find myself a fucking makoro and row myself and my bike over this fucking river, fuck the border control, tonight I want to be in Nam eating a fucking burger and chips..”


Funny how mistakes leads to great experiences -the essence of adventure biking............

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Kaboef on October 15, 2010, 08:52:00 am
Bloody fantastic!

The part about you having to backtrack after losing your passport is written very well.
But so is everything else..   :biggrin:

Thanks, looking forward to the rest.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: ThomTom on October 15, 2010, 11:09:31 am
I do admire your sense for adventure.  A question that I have:  what do the people live on in southern Angalo?  No major farming going on, they are not great cattle herders, etc.?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 15, 2010, 11:22:48 am
I do admire your sense for adventure.  A question that I have:  what do the people live on in southern Angalo?  No major farming going on, they are not great cattle herders, etc.?

First of all, not many people, so their impact is not that noticeable on the area, but what I noticed:

Along the coast, a lot of fishing, and they use the dry riverbeds to grow produce...it seems that the water is available at quite a shallow depth, when they till, the soil is quite dark.

Inland, they do have cattle, but I do not think they are into eating their personal wealth and status symbols..for that they have goats. In terms of produce, they have samp (Stampmielies) that they grow.

My honest opinion, I do not think starvation is the issue, more malnutrition as they do not have a huge diversity.

One funny thing, and I think this harks back to the Portuguese legacy..quite a bit of pork, funny fat little pigs.

If they can clean up the landmines, and get some agricultural drive going, it is the land of opportunity, they have amazing rivers that due to the fact that it is so flat, cannot be used for hydro  - electricity, the scope for dams is limited.

The rivers were also, a month before the rainy season, flowing strongly, and if you take note of what the Israelis did with a lot less water and soil that is nowhere as rich...one wonders.

Africa can become the food basket of the world, but not as long as everybody is intent on raping it for it's easy accessible resources, providing an easy income. The responsibility lies within the global community.
 
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: JC on October 15, 2010, 11:34:37 am
awesome report

Did you use the DR to go back because it has a better fuel range, or was it for the better seat?  ;)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: wacko on October 15, 2010, 12:25:19 pm
Very nice :thumleft:

Enjoying this one very much. Always interesting when the story has a twist.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 15, 2010, 12:26:24 pm
awesome report

Did you use the DR to go back because it has a better fuel range, or was it for the better seat?  ;)

Fuel range...the better seat did not compensate for the shoddy shocks.. at first I thought "hell...this is comfortable.." till I started hitting the whoops and potholes..I'm not sure whether they were just to "pap" or the fact that they were progressive, but the boingers is the one thing I will change on an otherwise absolutely ideal bike for this type of trip.

I will, for my last installment, cover the prep, bike, documentation, kit etc...and what I thought of the bikes in general.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 15, 2010, 05:35:39 pm
I actually did suggest to Pete before the trip to at least fit pro springs into the front shocks, but we never got to that. The DR is indeed the best bike for this type of trip.
The XT is a bit faster on the whoops than the XR, that's how I beat Berserker to Flamingo lodge :pot:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 15, 2010, 06:13:07 pm
I actually did suggest to Pete before the trip to at least fit pro springs into the front shocks, but we never got to that. The DR is indeed the best bike for this type of trip.
The XT is a bit faster on the whoops than the XR, that's how I beat Berserker to Flamingo lodge :pot:


I qoute (myself):

Angola, Angola

I could taste the beer, and left Danie and Peter for dust.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00121_1.jpg)

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on October 15, 2010, 08:00:46 pm
Classic stuff !!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 15, 2010, 09:02:24 pm
The road in to Flamingo lodge is roughly 17kms of horrible whoopy sand and I was following Berserker at a fairly brisk pace, him obviously cruising on the XR and the XT nearing the end of it's suspension abilities. At one point I pulled up next to Dave and what would I notice? He is riding without goggles!! I then realised that if I pass him, because of the dust he will have to back off, which is what happened, Dave had to stop to put on his goggles and I made good my getaway. He arrived 00000.003seconds after me, in 2nd place >:D
Shit that XT is fast :imaposer:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: tau on October 15, 2010, 10:28:41 pm
weereens briljant ek het nog nooit 'n report so baie gelees nie.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 15, 2010, 10:43:10 pm
Dankie Tau, en almal wat lees. Dave het n mooi skryftrant. Belangrik om jou toervennote reg te kies en ek sal enige tyd weer saam met Dave en Peter gaan. Ek sal saam met enige Wilddog gaan. Nooi my net.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Doerengone on October 15, 2010, 10:52:04 pm
The road in to Flamingo lodge is roughly 17kms of horrible whoopy sand and I was following Berserker at a fairly brisk pace, him obviously cruising on the XR and the XT nearing the end of it's suspension abilities. At one point I pulled up next to Dave and what would I notice? He is riding without goggles!! I then realised that if I pass him, because of the dust he will have to back off, which is what happened, Dave had to stop to put on his goggles and I made good my getaway. He arrived 00000.003seconds after me, in 2nd place >:D
Shit that XT is fast :imaposer:


Hehehehe. Gryskoppe bo.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: the_BOBNOB on October 15, 2010, 10:55:03 pm
Oom 2Stroke is dit dieselfde XT wat jy in Oudtshoorn gehad het begin van die jaar ???

Hy lyk dan so bietjie anders  :-\

Of is dit net die tenk wat anders is ???
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 15, 2010, 10:59:56 pm
Ja Bob, dis dieselfde een, met n ander tenk en sonder sidepanels. En behang met kak :imaposer:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: the_BOBNOB on October 15, 2010, 11:03:09 pm
Ja Bob, dis dieselfde een, met n ander tenk en sonder sidepanels. En behang met kak :imaposer:


Hy het nog net 'n skaapvel gekort dan het hy nou eers die "part" gelyk  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 15, 2010, 11:36:28 pm
N skaapvel en 2 sulke AG200 modderflappe by die wiele.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: chopperpilot on October 15, 2010, 11:37:09 pm
Trip van 'n leeftyd!

Great RR! :biggrin:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: SGB on October 16, 2010, 07:08:14 am
I think you left your passport on purpose.  You just wanted some more Angola riding..... Always better on someone else's bike......  :ricky: :imaposer:  :laughing4:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Blou Zebu on October 16, 2010, 08:09:23 am
Dankie Tau, en almal wat lees. Dave het n mooi skryftrant. Belangrik om jou toervennote reg te kies en ek sal enige tyd weer saam met Dave en Peter gaan. Ek sal saam met enige Wilddog gaan. Nooi my net.

Kom bietjie saam my kerk toe!  :biggrin:

Baie lekker om van julle trip te lees! Ek dink dit moet great wees! Die ervaring, die kameraderie, die herinneringe!
Dankie dat julle ouens dit met ons deel!

Voetnota en nie n hi-jack nie!
Ek hoop om eendag, nie te ver van hier nie, n trip op die westlike kant van Mkar te doen.
Maevatanana
Maintirano
Morondava
Manja
Toliara
en dan dalk sommer tot in Fort Dauphin

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 16, 2010, 02:53:34 pm
..... Always better on someone else's bike......  :ricky: :imaposer:  :laughing4:

A bit like an Avis car..can go faster/harder/ with less oil/over pavements and they just don't break (immdiatly) :oscar:

I then realised that if I pass him, because of the dust he will have to back off.....

Pre-meditated  :o  And there I was thinking "Shame...he must be tired and gatvol...in a hurry to get off..." Must say I was impressed at the speed the XT could muster  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Oros on October 16, 2010, 04:45:14 pm
EPIC, farking EPIC I tell you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 16, 2010, 10:50:33 pm
Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”




Day 15, 16 and 17 Opuwu to Stellenbosch via Windhoek

Still suffering from a stomach bug, the previous night’s feast did little to keep me out of the throne room. At least at Aussicht it is a throne room al Fresco, and the night view of the stars was spectacular, as was seeing the rising sun, and by the time Danie and Pete woke, I was feeling a lot better.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/IMG_1678.jpg)

Just as well, Danie was feeling like a dog, and could hardly help with the packing of the bakkie and trailer.

Altough Pete was suffering from the onset of the bug, he was able to help and pretty soon we were on our way to Opuwu, to fill up and get provisions for the long road back.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00002_1-3.jpg)

Danie promptly fell asleep on the back seat, Pete made it to Opuwu where he decided to doctor himself…his strategy obviously involved giving the bug alcohol poisening as he got back in with 6 quarts.

In this manner we set out for Windhoek via Kamanjab, which fortunately came up just as Pete was running out of medicine..and a quick refill was in order.

Feeling distinctly jolly, with the bug in hiding, he took over driving as the time in the throne room was beginning to tell and I was feeling drowzy.

Outjo came and went, and we made Windhoek just after dark, where I once again took over. About 40 km from Windhoek, funny noises from the drivetrain, and I decided to pull over…fortunately, as I was about to stop, the rear diff of the Isuzu locked up completely and we were forced to a halt.

As disasters tend to come and go, we could not be more fortunate…breaking down close to the one place where we could manage mechanical failure…some sms’s stateside, and within half an hour Adele from Valley recovery services phoned us, and a pick up was arranged.

Flip and his broher in law arrived within 50 minutes, the bakkie uploaded and we were on our way back to Windhoek.

Should any of you ever have the misfortune of requiring mechanical assistance in Namibia, give them a ring. Not only did they recover us, they took us into their home and provided us with a place to sleep. The next day, after a hearty breakfast prepared by Adele, Flip went out of his way to obtain qoutes, strip the rear axle from the bakkie, took it in for reconditioning and made sure Pete got to the bank to arrange the financial matters.

The offending rear diff, notice the crack:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00003_1-3.jpg)

Matters were sorted by four o’clock, and by 5 we were mobile, once again ready to hit the road, thanks to Flip, Adele and family.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00004_1-3.jpg)

From here the journey went without a hitch, we crossed into South Africa at Noord Oewer.

The next morning, sunrise just outside Springbok en route to Van Rhynsdorp, Danie and Pete still feeling the affects of the bug…useless buggers.
 
(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Calai_00005_1-2.jpg)

For a second I thought of waking them, after all “It’s all in the mind..” or so I was told at Nkurenkuru,  but then decided against it, as they say, let sleeping dogs lie.

With Led Zeppelin booming through the speakers, I had a quiet moment to reflect on the past 2 ˝ weeks, and a journey of which the memory will last for a very long time…

The country.. we were traveling in the south, so I can not comment on the north, and can be quite different.

Not once were we solicited for a bribe, we were or never felt threatened, and although ample opportunity existed, not a single thing was stolen from us, and not a single instance of begging.

Wherever we went, we were treated with respect, an aspect that I noticed extended not only to us as “white man”, but even amongst each other. Danie and me spoke about it one night…every village seemed to have a “village idiot” and even they were treated with respect by the rest of the villagers.
At every village we passed through, we reported either to the administration or the police. Altough we were questioned at length, it was mostly out of curiosity rather than suspicion, and it gave us the ideal opportunity to interact with the locals.

We were in villages where there some of the kids has never seen a white man, nor a motorbike for that matter…it was natural for us to raise attention. In Menogue the crowd got so big that the police chased them apart as they were blocking the road, but even then it was at a respectfull distance.

Travelling in Africa, one’s biggest concern is other people, and in that respect, there is no issue in Angola.

The Ride... Diverse, remote, brilliant…the only problem is that it is far away, but then that can be good as well. We rode on hope, there are hardly any GPS Tracks,  information is scarce (from the outside) and definitely no BP Petrol waypoints…but not once did we run out of petrol (sometimes riding on fumes, but never pushed.) Having said this, make sure you are prepped, mechanical failure will result in a very long walk, and you will leave your bike there, the chances of recovery in some areas are small to non existent.

You need to be virtually self sufficient, at least for three days if everything goes well…plan your kit and provisions….and use it sparingly (lean is mean is good)
   
My pardners..I could not have wished for better, an ecclectic mix with Danie on the one hand that does not care as long as he rides, and an offbeat crazy Pete on the other, always game for anything, the common denominator amongst us being riding our bikes off the beaten track. Not once did anybody complain about the route, and interesting campsite discussions went well into the night…guys, anytime again!

Highlight…the trip as a whole.

Negative.. to little time, it would have been nice to have a few days spare, even if it were to rise later, swim in more rivers, siesta….you catch my drift. As it were, we rode every day till exhaustion set in…but then that glowing feeling of achievement from that…naa, forget about it, no negative, I longed for my wife and kids to much to have needed more time.


like they say…. “That’s all folks !”


ps: will follow up with the informercial, and try and cover everything, from invites, visas, prepping (mechanical, medical, kit), sources of information, routes, and what have you.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Vaalseun on October 16, 2010, 10:57:04 pm
Excellent report, magnificent riding, truly amazing. Cudo's to you three :whip2:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Sprocketbek on October 17, 2010, 02:53:42 am
Thanks guys. This report kept me rivetted. Very well written. Amazing trip!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: mountainboy on October 17, 2010, 07:03:12 am
10/10 guys

well done :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Doc Holiday on October 17, 2010, 09:22:33 am
Well done! You have opened up the Longa- Calais passage and shown that this can be done! The crucial point is timing in the year and availability of petrol in Nankova. I was part of the gang which attempted the route from Calais (with Jan du Toit, Stefan Boshoff /Bakkes). Very early we had the Yamaha problem and had to turn back. I did a lot of planning for this stretch and got good info from MGM (Menschen gegen Minen) a German demining company which sweeped the major roads west of the Cuito river.

I have done the "Doodsakker" coast stretch on three previous Angolatrips as well and think that if you are on bikes alone to not stress to much. On a bike it is very easy to ride up the dune in case of the tide coming in. I found the sand on most parts the face of the dune is also harder than the sand you would find on the dunes in Namibia, due to the constant southwesterly winds. So guys, if you are driving unsupported next time, reading this text, please attempt the doodsakker at high tide, show us that it can be done! If you run into problems, ride up the dune and relax...

The Ruacana- Foz de Cunene stretch will always be a favourite. Seemingly endless twospoor, technical at times, good fun. Also good to know that this stretch will probably never receive any tar in our lifetime. The west of Angola is very fast being gobbled up by chinese tar, becoming less and less of a challenge. If you want some fun and excitement, stick to the east.. On a previous trip I entered Angola (Moxico province) in the very northwest of Zambia (source of Zambezi), travelled along the DRC/Angola border, south to Cazombo, only to be expelled back to Zambia via the shortest route.

Once again my respect to you guys...unsupported..just smell of petrol, dust , sweat, vasbyt en bietjie afkak, maar dis n lekker afkak... (Afrikaans is a wonderfull language)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on October 17, 2010, 10:05:16 am
Beserker I liked your writing. A lot! :thumleft:
Great trip with likeminded friends.
Im asking myself. What could be next for the "drie musketiere"?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: the_BOBNOB on October 17, 2010, 11:17:37 am
nice one guys  :thumleft:

really enjoyed it  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: buzzlightyear on October 17, 2010, 11:57:40 am
Thanks Beserker and co for the riveting read  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: JMOL on October 17, 2010, 02:27:06 pm
 Baie dankie.

Dis voorwaar manne met staal.

Ek kon nie wag dat die volgende paar dae se updates gedoen moes word nie, en ek het elke sin / woord / foto ingeneem en gememoriseer.

Baie smart gedoen.

A job "well done".
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 17, 2010, 04:06:56 pm
MGM (Menschen gegen Minen) a German demining company which sweeped the major roads west of the Cuito river.

Thanks....will keep in mind, as I said information was scarce, it is always good to learn of a source.

ride up the dune and relax...

+1

On a previous trip I entered Angola (Moxico province) in the very northwest of Zambia (source of Zambezi), travelled along the DRC/Angola border, south to Cazombo,

And I can feel an itching...grts, grts!

.
lekker afkak... (Afrikaans is a wonderfull language)

Was temted to do it in Afrikaans, being a capie...I could have spiced it  ;D

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 17, 2010, 04:09:53 pm
To all the thanks...CrisL, BobNob, Buzz, JMol and the others...it was a pleasure.

I know how I devour RR's, and the inspiration I get from them, it was a small favour in return.

 :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: SGB on October 17, 2010, 04:25:51 pm
Well done! You have opened up the Longa- Calais passage and shown that this can be done!
Once again my respect to you guys...unsupported..just smell of petrol, dust , sweat, vasbyt en bietjie afkak, maar dis n lekker afkak... (Afrikaans is a wonderfull language)

Welkom aan die onsimpatieke dokter!  Goed om jou hier te sien.... :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: DD650 on October 17, 2010, 04:30:05 pm
Now we really want to do a trip like this! Thanks for sharing; great RR!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Tankwa on October 18, 2010, 01:53:29 pm
Thanks again guys for sharing - Brilliant !!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Doc Holiday on October 18, 2010, 07:16:33 pm
Stefan! manjifieke forum hierdie, moes al bietjie vroeer op hom afgekom het. Die manne het vir my weer erg begin laat juk... Laat weet as jy weer wil ry,  ek sal eerste in die ry staan..
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Hondsiff Honda on October 18, 2010, 07:34:08 pm
Epic trip :thumleft:, thats what its about! perhaps we should all do, knock 2 weeks out of our 'busy' lives and go experience stuff before we get taken out like the poor oke on sandton drive today, no dis respect intended but fuck life is soooo short?


Thanks guys for sharing a fab trip, It really looks like an awsome experience
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 19, 2010, 09:37:11 pm
Aaaa, the unsympathetic doctor...Doc Holiday is quite apt.

...The crucial point is timing in the year and availability of petrol in Nankova.

Just on this...the fuel in Nankova is mainly for generators, as I said there were virtually no through traffic, Nankove is the end of the line coming from the south in what I would imagine to be diesel vehicles.

As it was, we caught the guy on a good day, bought 45 liters, which basically drained is stock..  :-[

Our saving grace were the fact that going from North to South, we did not have that many km left to Calais...
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: bradleys on October 20, 2010, 08:21:59 am
This was one riveting read ,well done guys,KTM bigger and myself are discussing  and trying to put a trip like this together.Some of your pics brought back lots of memories,I was in 32bat and spent many months at lots of the places you were at,thats one of my resions to go back, would love to know what the rough cost of your expedition was and to get yourtracks.
Once again well done ,that was a epic read,thanks for sharing :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Nardus on October 21, 2010, 10:00:48 pm
Befok julle !!

Reminded me of my best trip I have had !! Was actually hoping for some action at the Doodsakker.

Nice report
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Brakenjan on October 24, 2010, 09:07:04 am
Ongelooflik!! Dankie julle drie - dit was 'n great lees!! Hall of fame stuff!!

Beserker, dankie vir al die moeite met die RR.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Nardus on October 24, 2010, 10:58:54 am
"We were invited to stay the night, unfortunately Mr. Papas biggest success story is his shebeen/disco, and the number of inebriated patrons hanging around made up our minds..we filled up, bade the kind people of Nankova adieu , and took our leave."

Also just wanted to quote this poor decision that was made - I think you guys have there missed on the best kick-ass boogaloos !!!

Faaaak - the people of Angola is just so bloody friendly

Thanks for the great report
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: peter stuyvesant on October 24, 2010, 06:52:58 pm
Awesome trip report.  Hats off to all 3 of you!
Mentally and physicaly, this trip must have been a mind fuck of note.
What if a bike broke down with something major, what if someone fell and had a serious injury? the mind boggles....................
Everyone thinks that they'd love to do a trip like this, but at the end of the day, there are only a handfull of okes that would take it on and make it.
Well done!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 24, 2010, 11:10:17 pm

Also just wanted to quote this poor decision that was made - I think you guys have there missed on the best kick-ass boogaloos !!!


Of the three towns we stayed in, Biaxo Longa had nothing, but both Cuito and Calais had a thumping nightlife, and friendly locals..

At Mr. Papas place however, I got there before Danie and Peter, and was greeted by 2 quite drunk policemen, not jolly, plain drunk.

They so argued as to whom shall ask me for my whatever, it turned into a full on fist fight. Later on, at the Admimistration building, one these tried to make his presence felt again, only to be "klapped" by one of the clerks.  He also could not stay of the bikes..

I did not relate this incident fully, as it was the one exception during our whole trip, and an isolated incident like this should not mar the positive impression experienced interacting  with the Angolans, as stated previously.

Although I'm sure nothing would have happened to us,I just did not have the energy to deal with it right there and then. Also..Mr Papa was expensive, we had no K$ left...was time to move on.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 24, 2010, 11:18:14 pm

Angola, Angola


(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Flag.jpg)


A tale of “tręs cavaleiros”




Preparation

Administration


As all aspiring Angola expeditionists are probably aware…getting in is the first hurdle.

You need to be invited, by somebody from Angola, and in Angola at the time…no use you know somebody from Angola residing in Gauteng or having a holiday in Mauritius at the time of faxing your invite…it needs to happen from Angola, and it gets checked!

Don’t waste time with bogus invites, or invites not originating from Angola.

The sure fire, absolutely painless and cheapest way is to contact Lezle at (lezle@tripostravel.co.za) 

She arranges everything for a nominal fee (about R250.00 pp…just taking time off  to visit the Angola embassy will cost you more)

She will also do your booking at Flamingo Lodge, as they are the party inviting you.

Visa application in total is R750.00, for which you need:

1.    Passport
2.   2 x colour passport photos
3.   A letter of employment, with the following stipulations:
a.   In Portuguese (use Google language tools to help you ;)
b.   On a company letterhead
c.   With a company stamp (or you pay R120 extra)
d.   Signed by a director or HR person
4.   Copy of your Yellow fever vaccination.

Border crossing you will need :

1.   Passport + 4 certified color copies
2.   Vehicle registration—original + 2 certified copies
a.   After the inspection make sure the police stamp the date on the back of the vehicle registration paper copy that they used to check the engine and chassis numbers
3.   Police Clearance certifying that the vehicle is not a stolen vehicle (SAP263)
a.   When you come back, you need to go to the Police Vehicle Inspection and declare your vehicle back in South Africa
4.   Identity Book
5.   Drivers License RSA + 4 certified copies
6.   International Drivers License + 4 certified copies
7.   Proof of vehicle insurance for Angola
8.   International certificate of vaccination (Yellow fever)
9.   Letter of invitation to Angola – From Lezle
10.   Letter from host in Angola - From Lezle
11.   List of valuables—cameras, cell phones etc. + serial numbers.  This list can be attached to the Namibian Customs and Excise Certificate.

Other documentation I took with:

1.   Letter explaining who we were and itinerary in Portuguese
2.   Insurance of vehicle –
a.   Cross Country Cross Border Insurance - Peter Norenius 0825688518
3.   Proof of financial means for the trip: Receipt of dollar exchange transaction
4.   MRI  International Travel Doc,
a.   I’m with Discovery, you phone them and they send you the whole shebang with numbers to call etc.

Arrange with your banker that you will be going away…nothing worse than having your card facilities frozen because of a withdrawal from a suspicious foreign country. Also, the banks there are not that “on-line” and if you need to arrange a manual transfer, better that your banker is contactable, and knows you are there.

The documentation that I generated (e.g. the itinerary), I got an Angolan/South African flag of the internet and used that as a letterhead, and had everything certified…nothing impresses an official more than a few official stamps on a document.

Kit

Medical


Make sure you know how to use, and administer whatever you take with.

Medication   
      
Eye drops, eye pad - Covomycin D
Strong pain killers for broken legs etc - Pethadine,Voltaren supository, Penicillin tablets
Common pain killers - Synap Forte, Gen Payne
Antiseptic cream - Bacitracin, etc. for lacerations and wounds),Betadine (for cleaning wounds) Bactroban   
Anthisan - insect bites
Anti nausea tablets   
Anti Diahorea - Loperamide , Lomotil (or equivalent)
Ciprofloxacin - Ear Infection
Coryx - Flu and Cold
Cetirzine - Allergic, hay fever to stings
Prednisone - Exceptional, Take 8 tabs immediately, 2 Cetirzine, then 1 less each day.
Lip Balm   
Staal druppels  - stops bleeding instantly
Sugar or glucose sachet - for shock
Oil of clove - toothache
Cytomax - (or similar electrolyte replacement drink for relief of muscle cramps and symptoms of heat exhaustion)
Water purification tablets, 1 bottle (Steritab)   
Suntan/Sunblock lotion   
Baby Wipes

(This was our shopping list, but we substituted for alternatives at the recommendation of doctors)   
   
Software   
   

Cotton wool   
Burnshield, Burn dressings (various sizes)   
1    triangular bandage   
2    75mm x 5m roller bandages   
2   compression pads   
1   roll elastoplast   
1   pack assorted adhesive strips   
10   assorted safety pins   
5   sterile gauzes   
4 or 5    assorted dressing pads   
1   small scissors   
1    small tweezer   
1   small dettol   
Alcohol Cotton swabs   
Ear buds   
A pair of disposable gloves   
Razors, 2 disposable (for removing hair before taping, stapling))   
Syringes and needles (10cc)   
Emergency blanket   
Scissors (med. surgical type)   
Scalpel blade   
Wound Super Glue (Derma Bond) or Butterfly plaster, Micopore and or staple gun   
Local anesthetic


Mechanical

Spares

Spark plug
Front optional Rear tubes
2 x Chain link
Assorted nuts and bolts
Spare chain…about 10 connected links

Sundries

Patch and solution
Qbond with powder
Pratley steel
Chain lube
Zipties
Hose clamps
Duct Tape
Electrical tape
Fuel hose
a BIC lighter. (better than matches.)
1' utility wire (useful for strapping broken things together).
15' 1/2" flat webbing
1 liter Engine Oil
K&N Air filter service kit…better, go with spare OEM air filter, oiled squashed in a jiffy bag.

Tools

Needle nose vice
Wide mouth Shifting
5 mm Allen
8 mm Allen
Multi Screw screwdriver
Copper thistle brush
Tire valve tool
Valve puller
˝ Hack saw blade
Tire levers with integrated wheel spanner (Front and Rear)
Spark spanner
Needle nose pliers
Nail file
8,10,12,13,14,15 socket with extension
8,10,12,13,14,15, 17 Ring spanner
Feeler gauge
Bicycle Pump
Chain breaker

Personal Kit

Tent
Sleeping bag
Mattress
Groundsheet
Stove
Additional Battery (Camera, GPS)
Head torch

Water Bladder
Mug
Dixie/Plate
Spork
Leatherman

Shorts
T-Shirt Long
T-Shirt
SlipSlops
1 Change (socks an' jocks)
Polyprop top
Hiking Towel

Dettol soap
Toothpaste
Tooth brush
Toilet Paper
Soap box 1/2 CakeSunlight + 1\2 Spons

Navigation

GPS : Tracks for Africa, and various custom maps.
Paper Maps

Bike Prep

Mechanically, the bikes obviously need to be 100%  sound. A catastrophic engine failure would have been disastrous.

Servicing, and working on the bikes yourself would go a long way to negate the mental stress that one has regarding your “bony” (grew up in Natal, we called them bony’s) It also helps you to make up a spares and tool list…(I try where possible to use my trip toolkit, that way I can confirm that I have the right stuff packed.)

As the distances were vast, and the riding mostly off road, we all had to make provision for fuel, and in my case, I decided to balance the bike where possible. A prime motivation is regularly touted “weak” sub frame of the XR.

I moved my tools down, to a homegrown aluminum toolbox….the biz, it is now a semi permanent fixture on my bike.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_07_24_00001_1.jpg)

Simple solution to transfer a lot of weight down low.

My wife made up a tool bag from black denim of the exact width,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Dave_00002_1-1.jpg)
 
and once rolled, fits nice and snug into the toolbox, no rattles.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_10_24_00220_1.jpg)

Washing it with TechWash, sufficiently waterproof to withstand the water crossings we did.

Next up fuel bladders made from a DuPont material used for fuel bladder systems that goes into the wings of aircraft. Supposed not to burst easily, which I put to the test. Filled one up half, and jumped on it, and it held up well. Next, drove one wheel of my Hilux over it..no issue, it is strong.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_10_23_00001_1.jpg)

Notice the bung, you unscrew the cap with it,

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_10_23_00003_1.jpg)

Then reverse and use it as a spout:

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_10_23_00002_1.jpg)

The fuel runs smoothly and accurately..no glug glug that splatters fuel everywhere.

Fixing it to my bike, Raj, from Rocksoles (Cape Town) came to my rescue, and we made up these saddlebags from a material similar too that of the tonneu cover found on the back of bakkies..super strong.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_10_23_00006_1.jpg)

A big percentage of the wait is transferred to the centre of the bike as opposed to the rear…relieving stress on the sub frame and serves to centralize weight. Compression straps keep it all together.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/2010_10_23_00005_1.jpg)

Total fuel capacity, 53 l (23 Acerbis, 15 + 15 bladders)

Loaded as is, with tools and fuel, I managed to squeeze the medical kit, the spares, oil, kitchen, sleeping bag etc into some Kriga luggage. I made do with a 20l  main compartment, and 2 x 10l side bags, quality kit, and with a dry bag construction, water and dust proof…apart from the clothes I was wearing, I literally took one extra pair of jocks, socks, t-shirt and long-sleeved shirt - none of us bothered with raingear, jackets etc.

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Dave_00007_1.jpg)

:Well, that is about it…any questions, shoot!!



 

 
   
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Frohan Visser on October 25, 2010, 09:37:52 am
Dankie Beserker!!!
Dis waardevolle inligting wat jy gratis uitdeel!!!
Daai fuel bladders en toolbox lyk na wenners!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Stevie on October 25, 2010, 10:59:58 am
Awesome......
Awesome ......

More info on the fuel bladders please.
[/list]
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: africanSky on October 25, 2010, 12:42:57 pm
Thks for the amazing report.

Out of interest how often did you lube your chains and clean your airfilters?
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 25, 2010, 01:02:25 pm
Out of interest how often did you lube your chains and clean your airfilters?

Thanks man...
We try and not touch the airfilters unless there is something wrong, manifesting itself as poor performance, black smoke etc.
Chains were lubed daily, sometimes more.

More info on the fuel bladders please.


On the bladders, I am sort of looking at putting together a sideline business making the stuff.

It is kind of difficult though as everybody wants something different, and considering the cost of manufacture (material, cutting, glueing etc), and the possible exposure in the marketplace, a custom solution vs a mass manufacturing run of three will not result in a huge price diff.

If you need something like this, best is to make a mock-up of carton, fit it to your bike, and once satisfied with that, a drawing with dimensions. Send that through to me and I can give you a price.

You will probably look at about R4k, incl. the panniers....so if you do your planning thouroughly, you will be able to use the panniers seperately as I intend to do. They are as strong as commercially available panniers, has the necessary compression straps, and install/uninstall in less than 5 min. (Actually faster by the second time)
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Gat Slag on October 25, 2010, 01:41:00 pm
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Mark Hardy on October 25, 2010, 02:08:03 pm
Thank you the last 3 hours of wonderful reading.

Respect to you all for doing that trip.

 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 25, 2010, 08:03:55 pm
Fuck Dave, now you tell us, was I suppose to carry all that stuff???!! I only brought 5 spanners and a tjoep :3some:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Woestersous on October 25, 2010, 08:21:33 pm
Fuck Dave, now you tell us, was I suppose to carry all that stuff???!! I only brought 5 spanners and a tjoep :3some:


 :imaposer: :imaposer: :imaposer:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 25, 2010, 09:44:11 pm
Fuck Dave, now you tell us, was I suppose to carry all that stuff???!! I only brought 5 spanners and a tjoep :3some:

Knowing you, I'm actually surprised at the 5 spanners, I carried it all....now you know why you beat me with .003 seconds

+

He arrived 00000.003seconds after me, in 2nd place >:D

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 25, 2010, 09:53:16 pm
I have just heard of another Angola trip of note, riders rolled into Stellenbosch over the weekend...but for now, mum's the word. :x
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 26, 2010, 11:50:40 am
My ketel kook altyd.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Rynet on October 26, 2010, 01:34:49 pm
So busy at the mo, I think it will take me longer to read this report than what it took you to do the whole trip  ;) but I am getting there slowly but surely . :P After 3 weeks of dipping into the RR I have only made it to page 5 but its WONDERFUL so far   :thumleft: You guys ROCK  :3some:

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: roxenz on October 26, 2010, 03:55:17 pm
I knew this was gonna be good, so I waited until the whole thing was in and read it in one go. What a blast!  Great stuff guys, reading it was huge fun! Many many thanks for composing and posting, and very very well done!  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 27, 2010, 12:55:17 pm
Awesome trip Beserker and Co. Congrats!!!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 27, 2010, 01:08:09 pm
Awesome trip Beserker and Co. Congrats!!!!!

Thx...how is the CR...went through my Photobucket crap when I did the report and saw the stuff I sent you..felt a ping of longing.. :-\
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: CrazyPorra on October 27, 2010, 01:42:28 pm
Might be selling it soon, don't use it much anymore and the hips and knees are taking strain. :)

But again that is a trip that I have always dreamt of doing. EXCELLENT !!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Brakenjan on October 28, 2010, 05:00:12 pm

Strong pain killers for broken legs etc - Pethadine,Voltaren supository, Penicillin tablets


 :eek7: Where did you guys get hold of this stuff Beserker? I have been privileged enough to experience it on two occasions and I am convinced that I'll turn into a junkie in 2 seconds flat if I ever get access to this stuff. Seriously good shit!!  O0  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 28, 2010, 08:35:11 pm
:eek7: Where did you guys get hold of this stuff Beserker?

From the deale....I mean doctor   ;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Brakenjan on October 28, 2010, 09:01:00 pm
:eek7: Where did you guys get hold of this stuff Beserker?

From the deale....I mean doctor   ;D

 :laughing4:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2 Stroke Dan on October 29, 2010, 07:31:11 am
And this after I have asked you guys very nicely not to take drakse into a fourayn cunttree :xxbah:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Berm_Rooster on October 29, 2010, 02:48:56 pm
Thanks for the PM Beserker. I have only just caught up with this thread now. Very lekker!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BRUSH on October 29, 2010, 04:35:39 pm
Great adventure you guys had there. Hopefully one day I'll be able to do the same.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on October 29, 2010, 11:18:03 pm
.. Hopefully one day I'll be able to do the same.

Sold to Gunston..Yeah sure!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BRUSH on October 30, 2010, 10:10:49 am
Sold to Gunston..Yeah sure!

Hey I've got my piglet know to join the big red pig.  Still need some time to get it roadworthied then I'll bring it around.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: DirtyHarry on October 30, 2010, 06:56:31 pm
Great RR. Enjoyed it all the way. Thanks for sharing.
A Thumper is high on my wish list after this RR.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: spoedvark on October 31, 2010, 10:20:54 pm
Superb RR!! Well done and congrats on your ride!! You guys are true adventure riders!!!!! :thumleft: :thumleft:  :ricky: :3some: :3some: :3some:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: husky on November 07, 2010, 12:29:02 pm
Brilliant man!!!

A friend and I talked about going to north / central eastern Angola to look at some timber (plantation not natural), just for the trip. Both busy, never got to it.  You did it!!

Those twee spoor paaitjies designed for 6x6 truck are interesting a a Cruiser has to hop one side then the other.  In the Dark Ages there were ou's who put Unimog rims onto LC's to widen the track so they could tear around shooting up the locals with .50's and such. Luckily they've been forgiven it seems.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Baches on November 09, 2010, 08:50:33 am
Ek sit darem al half pad op in Walvis. Nie so ver om te ry nie. Briljante RR Beserker en laat my lus voel vir so 'n trip. ChrisL hoe lyk dit met so iets ???
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: domstes on November 09, 2010, 08:08:00 pm
Beserker thanks for the checklist of all the things you need.  :thumleft:
It has some things I would never have thought of...., until I needed it that is.   :eek7:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BlueBull2007 on November 16, 2010, 06:30:26 am
Finally got the chance to finish reading this report. Absolutely awesome. What a fantastic adventure, and a great story. Wish I could have been there.

Quote
At the start, I remember taking this photograph, thinking “This doesn’t look to bad, 430 km, a day, maybe a day and a half to civilisation, one night camping…yeeha!”

I know exactly what you mean, but on loaded bikes in that sand: RESPECT!  :drif:

What speed where you doing (mas or minus) in that sand if I may ask? Im pretty sure if you stayed in the rut you would not be able to ride as fast, I find that the sand grips the sides of the wheels and increases friction, reducing speed and increasing fuel consumption.

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on November 16, 2010, 06:45:29 am
Finally got the chance to finish reading this report......

Aren't you supposed to be racking up miles, working on base endurance...?

And now I catch you idling around on forums.. ???

Back to work!  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BlueBull2007 on November 18, 2010, 12:54:15 am
Finally got the chance to finish reading this report......

Aren't you supposed to be racking up miles, working on base endurance...?

And now I catch you idling around on forums.. ???

Back to work!  ;D

Yes dad. :thefinger:

My excuse is im still waiting for my foot to heal.   :evil6:

I can kick start my bike now, so tomorrow Im going tostart riding again.  :ricky: Yahoo!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on December 31, 2010, 07:56:25 am
A year in retrospect...noticed some unanswered questions...

What speed where you doing (mas or minus) in that sand if I may ask? Im pretty sure if you stayed in the rut you would not be able to ride as fast, I find that the sand grips the sides of the wheels and increases friction, reducing speed and increasing fuel consumption.

The sand ruts were so deep it knocked our feet of the pegs, and the amount of luggage/fuel coupled to the fact that it will be a serious issue should something go wrong in an area that remote, made us cautious.

We were doing different speeds due to different bikes.

On the XR I was doing about 60 - 70,  but outrunning the other bikes was silly, it meant a long wait at every substantial fork in the road for the others, during which time you get eaten alive by the insects.

The bikes only started "floating" on the sand once you hit third, so we kept the minimum above that. The max was influenced by caution, but riding kilometer after kilometer, hour after hour and one gets blase and start speeding up, the temptation to "Dakar" it is always there and once you succumb to it....  :ricky:  80 - 90 on the straight sections with potential to go faster.

On the beach we went flat out, only slowed down when we noticed we were running low on fuel.

More info on the fuel bladders please.


If you need something like this, best is to make a mock-up of cardboard, fit it to your bike, and once satisfied with that, a drawing with dimensions. Send that through to me and I can give you a price.

You will probably look at about R4k, R2k for the bladders including the fittings and fuel bung
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Tonteldoos on February 17, 2012, 09:29:39 pm
Somehow I only got to read it now.. Bevange  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Buff on February 19, 2012, 08:50:50 pm
I somehow missed it as well, what an awesome report & trip. If you guys do it again, please drop me a PM, I'd love to join you. Besides giving me an excuse to buy another bike, I wanna go fishing at Flamigo  ;D
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: wolfman on February 19, 2012, 10:54:36 pm
Fantastic report! Thanks to you and the other two cavaliers for opening this route in such an interesting manner. The checklists are also much appreciated.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Pietcoke on February 20, 2012, 02:40:23 am
Baie nice trip en RR.

Het baie tips uit die RR gekry. :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: vsousa on April 25, 2013, 07:22:47 pm
Excellent RR, expect to do something similar in the future
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on April 25, 2013, 09:15:06 pm
Excellent RR, expect to do something similar in the future

Just do it!!!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Baches on October 13, 2015, 06:22:23 pm
Het die RR 5 jaar terug ook gelees. Was laas jaar Junie maand in Angola as 'n agterste gids drywer vir Uri Adventures. Was op heelwat plekke waar julle was. Al was dit nou met 'n Land Cruiser was dit een befokte trip. Kan my net in dink hoe dit met die bikes moes wees.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Xpat on October 13, 2015, 09:16:52 pm
Great report!  :thumleft:

I've read it years back on advrider, and it's great that it came back to provide some inspiration. I like the obligatory Doodsakker, but especially enjoyed the exploring into unknown in the east. Well done to you and an inspiration for me to start digging into those Googlemaps again.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: subie on October 13, 2015, 09:35:12 pm
I cannot help but wonder about the number of bucketlist/going to do this also posts  :eek7:
Be sure you are "ready" before jumping into such a ride.
Fantastic trip which I am very sure I just want to read about  :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Draadwerk on October 13, 2015, 09:38:24 pm
Addictive RR
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: krister on October 13, 2015, 09:43:24 pm
Dankie!  Goeie RR!   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Amsterdam on October 14, 2015, 06:09:35 am
A wonderful report of an extreme trip, inspirational. Must work a bit more on my sand riding skills before taking this on and find some buddies who are keen to try this.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: lj111 on October 14, 2015, 07:21:10 am
Awesome trip and report!!

Thanks :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: WildWood on October 14, 2015, 09:54:37 am
Amsterdam, One of the trio , Two Stroke Dan is a regular on our WildWood Rides and unfortunately missed the Kaokoland trip. Some feeble excuse about a holiday with his wife. Hopefully you'll both join us on the next epic.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: WildWood on October 14, 2015, 09:59:13 am
And yes, the 'tres caveleirios trip' is certainly a trip by which all trips should be measured.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: ROOI on October 14, 2015, 01:35:42 pm
How did I miss this one back then ?? :bueller: Befokte report . Dankie Danie vir die link  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: subie on October 14, 2015, 02:06:56 pm
And yes, the 'tres caveleirios trip' is certainly a trip by which all trips should be measured.

Ons kan darem nou nie so se nie. n Paar dekades gelede was daar Metaljockey se trips  ook   :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Amsterdam on October 14, 2015, 04:45:13 pm
Hopefully you'll both join us on the next epic.

I worked for 9 years in Cabinda.  I will brush up on my very poor Portuguese and be ready.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Warren Ellwood on October 20, 2015, 05:19:06 pm
Inspirational stuff.

However, that's looks like more sand than I would like to see in my life time.

Glad this was rejuvenated so I could read it over the last few evenings, time well spent while waiting for my trucks to come home.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on November 24, 2015, 11:02:18 am
With a heavy heart I just re-read the RR, in memory of Peter Boardman aka WatDeFokKykDjy? on the forum.

Rest in Peace our brother...

(http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj26/Beserker_bucket/Final_00049_1.jpg)


Peter died at about 3 am early this morning while riding his motorbike.  I don't know the accident details but hopefully he died quickly; though way too soon.

Saddest for those he left behind.  And we'll all have to find fortitude in remembering his enviable and remarkable strength; the most reliable form of positive energy I've had the privilege to wallow in so darn often.  If we can learn to emulate a smidgeon of his generosity, a fraction of his strength in adversity, a moment of his purpose and his unfailing lust for life our world will be richer at every turn.

He ran through each phase of his full life, amused by paradoxes, driven with ideas of hope and plans of purpose. He left on a high. Amidst the usual turmoil of our world of bustle and bludgeon he had a special morning with Tracy and a special late night at his Barleycorn. Though I wasn't there I'm sure he was solidly in his cups.  I'm sure his ebullience never wavered and the only unimportant challenge was to find a few others who could swallow the rest the evening with just a moment of his passion.

I cannot say how sad I will always be that I didn't spend that precious night with him, taunting him, as I would have, with my relative sobriety.  And loving him as I watched him go yet that extra mile to accommodate and help others to be happy.

All has shrunk so suddenly. He was in our plans.  A world without Pete is simply unthinkable. To reduce some of the crushing sadness we need to remember how he would have turned this tragedy into yet more life.  Let's try give him and ourselves at least that.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: KiLRoy on November 24, 2015, 01:27:01 pm
and to my internal shame we have missed this too....

First of all RIP Peter Boardman....

It took us 5 years, but yes, you okes were right real RoH stuff :thumleft:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Mikey950 on November 24, 2015, 02:43:18 pm
Thanks for this Bezerker. An absolute tragedy and its gonna leave a Pete shaped hole in many places in our worlds. Adventure on and on and on dude.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 0012 on November 24, 2015, 04:00:05 pm
Just read the entire RR. thanks so much for the write up, absolutely brilliant!

RIP Pete.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: EssBee on November 24, 2015, 04:05:58 pm
Peter's passing just made me look at this amazing RR. Awesome.

Rest in peace Peter.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: spoedvark on November 24, 2015, 05:56:16 pm
RIP PETE!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: MaxThePanda on November 24, 2015, 06:27:27 pm
We spent several funny evenings with Pete talking about his Angola experiences while planning our own. I always meant to do a bike trip with him and never got around to it... what a shame! I never saw him miserable, always a laugh, an evil grin and a cheeky rebuttal... a man of life, and truly sucking the best of the marrow. We'll miss you man!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: JustBendIt on April 13, 2016, 05:18:25 pm
 :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2: :hello2:

absolutely fucking epic - well done to all  :thumleft:

RIP Peter Boardman
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: WildWood on January 09, 2017, 05:25:17 pm
This trip has been on my todo list for a while now and 2017 is about as good a time as ever to bag it.

Our plan is for early September. Final dates and costs later.

We'll leave from Windhoek with a back-up 4x4 and return via Windhoek. (takes care of fuel and food risks and makes riding unloaded  a whole lot easier.

I suggest single cylinder bikes only due to the sandy terrain. KTM690R's and Husqvarna 701's available as rentals for the trip.

Tempted ??? Contact john@wildwood.capetown
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on January 09, 2017, 08:32:10 pm
Tempted ??? Contact john@wildwood.capetown

You owe me a beer for the free advertising  :deal:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: WildWood on January 09, 2017, 09:27:33 pm
My pleasure.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: BlueBull2007 on January 24, 2017, 05:48:31 am
Just a beer? :pot:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Baches on February 07, 2017, 07:52:14 am
Ons ry volgende week Lubango om deur die doodsakker terug Suid na die Kunene mond. Ongelukkig met die bakkies maar sal volgende jaar met die motorfietse terug kom.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: big oil on April 09, 2017, 06:30:17 am
Much love and respect.

RIP Mr. Pete
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: katana on April 09, 2017, 08:21:19 pm
It just gets better and life seems more boring.  Respect.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Dacquiri on May 30, 2019, 09:56:46 pm
Thrilling RR Beserker!!  What an adventure. I would love to try it someday and hope it won’t have been tarred by then.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2StrokeDan on May 30, 2019, 10:30:10 pm
Thrilling RR Beserker!!  What an adventure. I would love to try it someday and hope it won’t have been tarred by then.

No tar machine can conquer that sand. :eek7: :eek7: :pot:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on May 31, 2019, 11:56:45 am
Thrilling RR Beserker!!  What an adventure. I would love to try it someday and hope it won’t have been tarred by then.

 :thumleft:

The East - West roads, especially Calais - Katitwe maybe.

The South North stretches not - it actually is not a road, it is more an overgrown track from the Portuguese era, or from the war - there are literally no people there, and no need for even a gravel road...

As a matter of fact, if you get the chance to do it, there is a huge number of variations of the South North stretches, it is flat Shona type country and the Longa river changes it's course all the time, the chances are good that you will not even be able to follow our tracks  - you will have to find your own.

 
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2StrokeDan on May 31, 2019, 01:50:47 pm
Thrilling RR Beserker!!  What an adventure. I would love to try it someday and hope it won’t have been tarred by then.

 :thumleft:

The East - West roads, especially Calais - Katitwe maybe.

The South North stretches not - it actually is not a road, it is more an overgrown track from the Portuguese era, or from the war - there are literally no people there, and no need for even a gravel road...

As a matter of fact, if you get the chance to do it, there is a huge number of variations of the South North stretches, it is flat Shona type country and the Longa river changes it's course all the time, the chances are good that you will not even be able to follow our tracks  - you will have to find your own.

They can just follow the XT's tracks, it will still be there. :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Fuzzy Muzzy on May 31, 2019, 02:36:31 pm
Come Dave, time to plan another trip  :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on May 31, 2019, 03:17:54 pm
Come Dave, time to plan another trip  :ricky:

 :ricky: :thumleft: :ricky:
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2StrokeDan on May 31, 2019, 03:57:17 pm
Come Dave, time to plan another trip  :ricky:

Hear, hear, I'm in.
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: the ruffian on June 20, 2019, 09:06:54 pm
Years later one realizes how definitive this RR and the experiences it depicts are... and shows most of us how mediocre we are by comparison.

I hope to meet you one day, Beserker, just to tell you how much of a ‘mensch’ you are, your humanism and spirit even further tempered by the obituary you wrote  for Pete - so compellingly moving.

And you 2SD, almost moved from legend into myth, so evocatively backlit in this narrative, I hope to meet you too.

Gracias!
Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: 2StrokeDan on June 21, 2019, 08:57:19 am
Years later one realizes how definitive this RR and the experiences it depicts are... and shows most of us how mediocre we are by comparison.

I hope to meet you one day, Beserker, just to tell you how much of a ‘mensch’ you are, your humanism and spirit even further tempered by the obituary you wrote  for Pete - so compellingly moving.

And you 2SD, almost moved from legend into myth, so evocatively backlit in this narrative, I hope to meet you too.

Gracias!

 :thumleft: Would love to meet you too.

Title: Re: Angola, Angola - a tale of “tręs cavaleiros”
Post by: Beserker on June 21, 2019, 01:49:47 pm
Years later one realizes how definitive this RR and the experiences it depicts are... and shows most of us how mediocre we are by comparison.

I hope to meet you one day, Beserker, just to tell you how much of a ‘mensch’ you are, your humanism and spirit even further tempered by the obituary you wrote  for Pete - so compellingly moving.

And you 2SD, almost moved from legend into myth, so evocatively backlit in this narrative, I hope to meet you too.

Gracias!

 :thumleft: