Wild Dog Adventure Riding

Riding: Plan, Report and Racing => Ride Reports => 'Roll of Honour' - Best Ride Reports => Topic started by: michnus on April 29, 2011, 03:41:27 pm

Title: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 29, 2011, 03:41:27 pm
Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?


The initial "Hello Africa tell me how you doing?" trip was only intended to cover South Africa to Europe. There were no plans after that. Since we started in 2010 this trip has evolved into an odyssey that's now going around the world on a continuous basis. Let us introduce ourselves, we are Michnus and Elsebie, our home is in East London, South Africa. Our passions are motorcycle overland travel, amateurish photography, drinking beer while watching the sunset over a new horizon.

Why? The aim is not to set records or to rush just to get the stamps. We are not the highway asphalt type, we love the backroads, the dirt roads and roads less travelled, the out of way places where tourist never go. Eat local, really dig into a place. We want to rub shoulders with the world, see the amazing places around the globe and get some first hand experiences of other people's cultures.
Our trip is completely unsupported and without sponsors.
Our website is: www.pikipiki.co.za (http://www.pikipiki.co.za)  

But most of all to have fun!!


Warning: picture rich thread with stupid grammar and even worse spelling. :D

(https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KswBcRC/0/XL/i-KswBcRC-XL.jpg)
RED and WHITE: COMPLETED ROUTE TO DATE. BLUE: PLANNED ROUTE FOR WHEN WE GET TO IN IN THE NEXT YEAR OR SO.
CURRENTLY MEXICO

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Uganda/i-tSzZZ2h/2/S/DSCN2306-S.jpg)   (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Uganda/i-LM3gC2N/0/S/DSCN2319-S.jpg)  

The lucky bastards!

We would love to hear from you, anything you are curious about.

What you can see from this trip so far...:wink:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LZV9dgz/0/S/i-LZV9dgz-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Gt5RK4H/1/S/i-Gt5RK4H-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2Psb4wk/1/S/i-2Psb4wk-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XtDb2SR/0/S/i-XtDb2SR-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rLn3JXb/0/S/i-rLn3JXb-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cZFgkgB/0/S/i-cZFgkgB-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vMHV9gq/0/S/i-vMHV9gq-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-h57zTLc/0/S/i-h57zTLc-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4PKNddT/0/S/i-4PKNddT-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fGtHxKz/0/S/i-fGtHxKz-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-w3qJrQQ/0/S/i-w3qJrQQ-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QBmhjdM/0/S/i-QBmhjdM-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bzcTBWh/0/S/i-bzcTBWh-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-J4tKQ2b/0/S/i-J4tKQ2b-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PP8dBNG/0/S/i-PP8dBNG-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BFsrpbX/1/S/i-BFsrpbX-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Wnc8cnQ/0/S/i-Wnc8cnQ-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vCKKDgR/0/S/i-vCKKDgR-S.jpg)


updated Jan 2015
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Laban on April 29, 2011, 04:00:45 pm


Gooi mielies Michnus................check julle ook op Pikipiki :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: EtienneXplore on April 29, 2011, 04:07:23 pm
Let me sit back, get some  :happy1: and enjoy this awesome report  :deal:

Looking forward to the rest, thanks for taking the time to share Michnus :thumleft:

 :headbang: :headbang:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Wooly Bugger on April 29, 2011, 04:28:45 pm
subscribed................. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Pistonpete on April 29, 2011, 04:38:08 pm
Glad you guys are ok :thumleft:

It was a hellave trip! 8)
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: michnus on April 29, 2011, 04:40:43 pm
Glad you guys are ok :thumleft:

It was a hellave trip! 8)

Well, for me and Elsebie it's not over yet, we are still in Africa, you will have to wait for the story.  ;) :mwink:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: michnus on April 29, 2011, 06:00:27 pm
Bikes and Boobs in Namibia

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(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-T6XtCcJ/0/L/i-T6XtCcJ-L.jpg)
Our first night in Namibia we stayed over in Ai-Ais, the revamped Ai-Ais that is. They say it took R30milj to get the place in tip top shape again, it definitely shows. It’s a great place to relax for a day or so and enjoy the moon-like surroundings.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zFk9Z7k/0/L/i-zFk9Z7k-L.jpg)
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Fish river canyon, what a place, the beauty and size leaves you breathless.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dvjwGX4/0/L/i-dvjwGX4-L.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xpSTLrC/0/L/i-xpSTLrC-L.jpg)
On our way to Aus we found a place called the Canon Roadhouse. Old rusted cars, engines, stickers and everything from way past when. It’s unbelievable that they were able to put this together in the middle of nowhere. Any real man deserve a garage like this, even the toilets are a work of art. Why do we not get adverts like this anymore? Bloody feminist crusaders!
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002233_WsKza-XL.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002249_xrRVk-XL.jpg)
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Have to make this part of my Man Castle one day
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Yes these were still adverts for men
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Many of these in the roadhouse
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Talking shit with some WildDogs that also visited the place at the same time
Just outside the Fish River canyon we stop at this French couple cycling all the way from France to CP. The spirit and friendliness of travellers always amazes me. Maybe they are just a different breed of person, as they always seem in good spirit. This is hard core balls to the wall travelling and way past my abilities, respect, that’s all I can say.

He came down the West coast and had zero troubles, she joined him in Lusaka and they pedal around 100km per day, eating 5 times a day mostly rice. The draw back is they did not go to the Canyon or Ai-Ai's as it's 12km and 9km they must pedal in and out each time, and so with many other places.
I wonder if doing a trip like this is really that a good idea if you choose to miss all the best places and just stick to the best roads as pedaling there and back is just too much work.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002278_GCd6L-M.jpg)
Crazy French cycling to CP
In Seeheim we stopped for petrol just to be told by Marinda that they prefer not to supply bikes with petrol. The oke’s that did “Op die rug van ‘n Ysterperd of Donkie of iets” that was aired on Kyk-net said they got dirty fuel from Seeheim Hotel. What they did not air is that the Seeheim owners supply fuel as emergency only, they are not a proper fuel stop and cart fuel in drums from Keetmanshoop to assist people in need. Serious journalist error in my opinion. Locals around the area as far as Aus know about this and are not in the least happy about this program. Seeheim’ owners were told by friends that this program aired them and not once did they even make an attempt to contact them for comment. Some of the comments from the locals were right, why only one bike if all the bikes got petrol from Seeheim, from the same container?

With some convincing she gave us each 5L of fuel – no sand included. My comment: “not all of us are like that”
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lc7RjmW/0/M/i-Lc7RjmW-M.jpg)
Cold beers and nice people at Seeheim hotel, we stopped for petrol.
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Camping at Klein Aus Vista
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 The Wild Horses from Aus, seems more dead than wild.


At this stage we hoped we could get some excitement along the way to take away the boredom of some of the roads. We read up in some magazine the way to Sossusvlei is best riding the D707 that run along the edge of the park. It’s also on this road that I had my wish come true for a bit of excitement.

In Ai-Ais we were asked whether we are part of the 30 GS’s, all French people,  that were doing a loop of SA, Zim, Bots, Zambia and Namibia. Aus’ garage owner told us not to take the D707 … sand, sand, sand, apparently some of the French fell them moer toe on that piece of road and one pillion broke a collar bone. Well, that’s the sign right there brothers and sisters!! We had to take this road!
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NdqPbJq/0/L/i-NdqPbJq-L.jpg)
Aaag nee man oom, if the French want to fall all over the place let them, how can you tell me I can't go ride the D707?
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002097_rfvgc-XL.jpg)
   Lekker sand
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002101_xqiCT-XL.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002188_mz2Ng-XL.jpg)
 
 D707 views
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002086_WUSas-XL.jpg)
 
I broke in the trip with the first fall....yeeehaaa heeltyd speeltyd!
It's one of those roads where you want to stop every 10 minutes and take pictures. Breath taking views, I stopped taking pictures knowing that my amateurish attempts will just not do justice to this place. I just took it all in and enjoyed the moment.

I understand why so many people get injured in Namibia on bikes and why the locals keep telling us about people blikseming the dirt. The broad long stretched out roads lures you to go faster and faster and then you hit a sand patch and everything goes belly up. For new riders or ego laaities it’s the biggest danger.

As we rode into Betta we saw this young dirty Jenson Button look-a-like named Neil with a oooold XT500 6Volt bike. He started riding bike a few months ago after drooling over Nardus’ ride report on his Africa travels. Nardus is his all-time biggest hero, he nearly gave up his religion for Nardus and travelling. It inspired him so much he just had to do something similar, except he does not have the funds or time for the entire Africa he will do a loop of Namib, Zambia, Malawi and back SA.

This guy is a true adventure rider, and I am super impress with him and his exuberance. He is a native Nataler, and only got his learners licence a few months ago and the previous owner had to show him how to ride a bike, he even asked if the bike got a reverse gear! He kitted his bike with empty 2L Coke bottles and set off to Springbok, he phoned ahead to make arrangements for his bike license and still had to stay a week longer in Springbok to get the booking and pass his license before going into Namibia.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8XP79C7/0/L/i-8XP79C7-M.jpg)
Eish, poor buck, wonder if the car, truck or bus that hit him stopped or just left the buck for dead

In Solitaire I gave him a crash course in dirt road riding, the poor guy was taking strain on these roads. It’s humbling and makes one think about our perceptions of what we need in life. This guy does the same as us with a hellova lot less and still enjoys it. This is a HUGE big up yours to the entire nose in the air poser D/S riders.

This picture is dedicated to Nardus, he could not get a Heineken can so a Cream Soda had to do.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002064_ZmXL9-XL.jpg)
   
Neil the adventurer, aka Jenson Button
At Sesriem there’s only one place to stay and it’s the Oasis camp site. It’s cheaper and miles better than the Park campsite. Each campsite has its own private facilities. The park wanted R380 plus R20 for the two bikes entry to the campsite. But the best is NO bikes allowed into the park! You pay the entry but you cannot enter!
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Into infinity
Now if only these bliksems would make it known in all their marketing material. We asked why and got the ‘I only work here’ comment. Is it not because of groups of bikes hauling ass in the place with a backup vehicle carrying the luggage? Or smaller bikes making a moerse noise? Very disappointing … I stated it stronger, but Elsebie reprimanded me on my language ;-)
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Sunrise at Sesriem
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Sesriem Camp Oasis, and their lekkerrrrrr pool
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G26zcfn/0/L/i-G26zcfn-L.jpg)
Warm evening wind and a braai on some hard red wood next to Sossusvlei, what's better than that?

It’s also at this stage where we loaded the additional petrol to get us to Swakopmund. I crank up the preload a half turn and the next moment I hear this hissing sound and there’s oil leaking onto the ground. My 3500km old Martin P revamped and improved shock have just broken the preload adjuster.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002136_BavRZ-XL.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002043_ZnWYj-L.jpg)
This bike only made it past Sossus

I had a noise from the start of the trip on the suspension and this must have been the cause or part of it. We decided to head for Swakopmund and get hold of Martin to assess the damage and decide on a possible solution. Martin’s advice to me is to ride the bike as is, because the preload adjuster is only to adjust the spring it does not affect the shock itself and since we have the higher rated springs fitted we actually don’t need to have it adjusted. Luckily we travel relatively light at about 30kg luggage each.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-s7zH87L/0/L/i-s7zH87L-L.jpg)


Not nice having to start a trip with part of a shock failing. Luckily we have a time on our side should we need to get a shock somewhere later. All four bikes now have MP revamp shocks in them and one has already shows failure. I hope this is just a once off and not a one of more that will break go wrong on the shocks.

Since we were not able to destroy the Sossusvlei dunes with our gas guzzling echo destroying bikes, we tried to conquer Dune 7 with the bikes but that plan did not worked out to well.
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Conquer Dune 7
The wonderful free feeling, meeting up with new people, experiencing new things, that’s all part of travel is addictive and I suspect it is going to get worse not better in the future, for us in any case. Not that I want a cure for this, I love this, and truly wish every person that has a love for travel and especially this kind of minimalist travel can have a change in their lives to experience it, even if it’s only once.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Crossed-up on April 29, 2011, 06:17:43 pm
Subscribed!  I've been following you on Pikipiki, but I'm one of those okes that like to read it on WD.  Your trip has been amazing and I look forward to the rest.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Johnnie Bok on April 30, 2011, 06:53:48 am
Great Trip!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: alwyn_gs on April 30, 2011, 08:17:57 am
Awesome trip report!!! :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: madmike999 on April 30, 2011, 10:11:33 am
 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

this is going to be gooooooood!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: BiG DoM on April 30, 2011, 10:24:07 am
Rock on  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: BlueBull2007 on May 01, 2011, 04:50:51 am
I read pikipiki and now I will read this one too. Awesome report boet! :thumright:

How do you centre the pics, just using the centre text function?
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Just Blip It! on May 01, 2011, 06:39:33 pm
Subscribed! Living the dream Michnus, I salute you!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Would I? on May 01, 2011, 08:00:09 pm
Subscribed. Read your blog. Petrol problem in Nam at the hotel is a worry for my planned trip..... >:( >:(
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: spoedvark on May 01, 2011, 08:02:47 pm
awesome RR. enjoy the ride. im licking my lips!!!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: MudCakedFace on May 03, 2011, 08:16:37 pm
Awesome - I'm subscribed...
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: michnus on May 03, 2011, 11:27:43 pm

!Khai!Khari!-! & !Urihab  (Damara for cold beers and motorbikes) 08/12/2010
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/1112002136_BavRZ-L.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/16826348_FTXcZC#1112002136_BavRZ-A-LB)

Swakopmund certainly is picturesque with street cafes, restaurants, good Eisbein and even bad tempered Germans!  
Without boring you, a must visit is the Village Café.www.villagecafenamibia.com (http://www.villagecafenamibia.com), definitely worth a visit, the best food and value for money in Swakopmund! Also the best pizza we ever had was at Wurstbude on Vrede-Redestreet (thanks for the referral, Mr Big!).


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Why they call it the Skeleton Coast

Met up with Neill, aka Jenson Button, again as well as 3 Belgium travellers at the Desert Sky Backpackers and enjoyed a lovely evening together , swapping stories and solving some of Africa’s problems.  Our new Belgium friends travelled one by motorbike and a couple in a Toyota Land Cruiser and just came down the eastern side of Africa.
All of them in their early 30’s have saved up, quit their jobs and embark on this new adventure. For them quitting a job is not a problem, they know they will find employment in Europe on their return after 9 months. It’s in stark contrast with the way we as South Africans go about our lives and decision making with regards to our future and how we live it. Just telling them we are taking 5 months had them laughing, it’s supposed to be 9 months to a year they say! ‘What do you want to see in 5 months’ they smirked.
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The three Belgium's, Stefano, Stefanie and Johan.

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Faster faster!!!

With the hot dry summer wind in our faces, we hit the dirt roads again, passing numerous road graders.  Now, a bad dirt road is okay but one that has just been graded is well … interesting. Good for cars but we had to work our asses off sliding over the new gravel with zero hard pack line to follow!It still beat the best day at the office and after a day’s riding with dust in the teeth, it’s great to gulp down a!khai!khari!
We were heading towards Uis and the Brandberg. Spitzkoppe we had to give a skip of which we are really sad as it's a very beautiful place.
It's December and Namibia is a hot place, any place with a pool and some beers are good for us. It's remarkable to see some of these lodges rose between the rocks in this arid counrty.  

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White lady lodge near Brandberg.


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Resident young Meerkat at White lady lodge.


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The best camping spots in Africa and they are in Namibia.

The Northern side of Namibia is showing a lot of development since we last toured here 15 years ago (now we are giving our ages away!). Hentie's Bay expanded quite a bit, lodges popped up everywhere along the river and scenic views. Lost is the ‘rough’ camping, hello to cool swimming pools, even cocktails, fancy restaurants and entertainment! The camp sites all are in very good shape and affordable.
Inland it also seems Namibia have embraced tourism to the fullest and it's right like. Namibia is one beautiful country.. with great people.

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Riding around at Brandberg mountain.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bdk8szQ/0/L/i-bdk8szQ-L.jpg)
Ye, what can I say, at least it's not a piece of tar.
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Damaraland the vistas and views are mind-blowingly beautiful.

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Stopped often to take in the silence and expanses.

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My arty pics will never be a National Geographic winner.
   
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Palmwag lodge, remember they have cold beers!

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Palmwag lodge camping, right next to the river and we hoped for some Elephants but they decided not to attend our cheese and wine evening.

 
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Happy bike.
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Braai vleis!

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From bottom to top of Namibia on gravel, and the only water crossing! Yeehaa for this puddle!
   
One sad thing about returning to Namibia is to see the influence that tourism has had on the local tribes.  It is not entertainment to see the Himba (apparently the oldest Herero tribe) setting up ‘come see us’ shacks along the main routes – dancing in the road to attract attention, just like street beggars next to traffic lights, child on the hip. At least the crafts on sale are all actually made by themselves.  Numerous curios shacks also line the once deserted roads.  One even said ‘do not take a picture, come and see us inside’. Guess there’s positives and negatives for this. The influence of main stream tourism on this region has changed them forever.

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You will not get me down!

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Ongongo near Sesriem

Ongongo near Sesriem is a must stay place. It's a place where water flow over rocks baking in the sun and then into this pool. It's the perfect place to take relax for a few days.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4BDZzCH/0/L/i-4BDZzCH-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pws5xM8/0/L/i-pws5xM8-L.jpg)

First of many puncture to come, at least I taught her well to do it while I rest in the shade.

    
I do not have the vocabulary to describe the astonishing beauty of the landscape and scenery to its fullest, if only I had paid more attention in school maybe it would have helped.  Especially this part of Namibia with its zebra striped mountains and red coloured sand flowing from broken mountain sides.  It makes me more de-moer-in that we had to sit in school with rubbish subjects like ‘LiggaamsOefeninge&Jeugweerbaarheid’ rather than being taught photography or something worthwhile to enabled me to take some decent true too life pictures and to portray this incredible country.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zbPKwz7/0/L/i-zbPKwz7-L.jpg)

It’s unthinkable how people can live in this arid place called Damaraland. God burned this place black and dark red in anger over Eve’s infidelity, maybe not, but I can’t think of any other reason riding through this beautiful land. If this place does not touch your soul you either do not have one or you are an alien.
The harshness of living in Damaraland is visible on people’s faces, but one thing that you do not expect is the friendliness and welcome smiles every single time you talk to one of the locals.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SQK26Rt/0/L/i-SQK26Rt-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RzkLJ3n/0/M/i-RzkLJ3n-M.jpg)
Bought Elsebie this in Opuwo from a very persistent seller. I thought I lost it, as I took the seat off I skrikked my gat off, thought this fucking snake was under my ass the entire time while riding!! Well at least it's not gone.

In the end we travelled Namibia from bottom to top on gravel and it is one of the most beautiful inviting countries and an absolute on the bucked list.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ScSKRR9/0/L/i-ScSKRR9-L.jpg)
That's Angola in the back ground, yes baby your next!

Angola will be a short visit and then back to Caprivi and onto Zambia.

  
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Battlestar on May 04, 2011, 07:46:37 am
Im in absolute awe  :drif: Excellent  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: edgy on May 04, 2011, 07:59:24 am
Awesome so far boet!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: michnus on May 04, 2011, 08:06:14 am
Loading pictures on our blog site was really time consuming in Africa countries, I will load more pictures on this thread than what we loaded on our blog site.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: TheAnt on May 04, 2011, 08:18:06 am
Subscribed!!!!  :ricky:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: CHorse on May 04, 2011, 08:19:18 am
Great report and  :thumleft: to you guys for chasing the dream.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: terminator1 on May 04, 2011, 08:27:46 am
obsessively subscribed  :drif:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Wooly Bugger on May 04, 2011, 12:13:18 pm
nice so far, Michnus.
looks awesome!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Misty on May 04, 2011, 12:40:03 pm
 :thumleft: looks good!!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Archangel on May 04, 2011, 01:49:55 pm
 :3some:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Heimer on May 04, 2011, 04:07:42 pm
Uitstekend Michnus  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Hanno @ Mad Macs on May 04, 2011, 05:24:08 pm
Sub-f-ing-scribed !!!!!!!
Epic!!

Very nice so far !
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: Harry the Buffalo on May 04, 2011, 05:57:14 pm
Sub-f-ing-scribed !!!!!!!
Epic!!

Very nice so far !
  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The ride report.
Post by: michnus on May 09, 2011, 10:09:20 am
ANGOLA- CERVEJA OBRIGADO!

You only have to know these two words to have locals crack a broad smile and even hard ass police officials won’t be able to keep a straight face. Beer and Thank You are the Portuguese words you need to know when visiting Angola.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-k64RDGT/0/XL/dscn0735-XL.jpg)
    MILE MARKER

The last time I visited Angola was more an off road ride, this time round it is to show Elsebie, Harold and Linda this wonderful country and to try and mix it up with some of the locals. Angola and it's people really have a way of creeping into your heart.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-vdKTLPZ/0/XL/dscn0512-XL.jpg)
ZA AND ANGOLA MEET AGAIN.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-pFnV5nN/0/L/dscn0505-L.jpg)
 ROAD SIDE BEER STOP

But Angola is a fickle mistress! This time she gave me a hard time coming close. Let me give you the absurd before I get to the good stuff.  We were supposed to enter Angola at Ruacana but the more we talked to the locals at Ruacana that used the route to Cahama, the more we were advised to stay away and use the main border. It’s the rainy season and the roads are so bad that we won’t be able to get to Cahama in a day. Dik bek, we decided to crossed at Oshikango, the only major border between Angola and Namibia.  Major bloody mistake!!!!!!

We gave the Angola embassy in SA the “Letters of invitation “Jose sends to us for the issue of the visa. Now these numb skulls at the border wanted a copy of it! How in hell must we get them now!? They only issue the visa on having this letter, why does this numbskull now also want to see it while he sit with the visa in his hands?

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-Tq3WnPN/0/L/dscn0497-L.jpg)
MANY RUSTED UP WAR RELICS NEXT TO THE ROAD.

We tried to explain but the officials, who could quote from their system the name of the person who issued our invitation, but still they would have none of us. In the end a local fixer sitting behind us under the tree said he will go fetch the fax on the Namibian side at Nedbank.  Thanks to Moses, who helped us the rest of the way, his fee of about US$40 and 6 hours later we entered Angola!

The border officials also did not know what a Carne-de-passage is, nor an International driver’s license and topped it off by telling Linda not to sit on a bench that is under the tree as it is only for officials!

This fickle mistress Angola had my moer deep into the red and it was bloody 40C outside.  Angola is not a tourist friendly country. The bureaucracy is mind boggling and the communism shows through now and then. Sounds stupid but that is why we are drawn to these countries, a lot less rules and still not besiege by tourist, you get to taste the local flavour of the country. It is damn expensive to stay in lodges or B&B’s and restaurants are equally expensive, at least beer and petrol are cheaper than in SA.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-bzTNDdd/0/L/dscn0498-L.jpg)
click on the picture for a bigger size
  (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-jhrCw9w/0/S/img_2613-S.jpg) (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/16826391_DMgbSW#1281909404_jhrCw9w-A-LB)  (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-NWPXVvk/0/S/dscn0810-S.jpg) (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/16826391_DMgbSW#1281905493_NWPXVvk-A-LB)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-5sB9dv2/0/S/dscn0811-S.jpg) (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/16826391_DMgbSW#1281907864_5sB9dv2-A-LB) (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-ThG245C/0/S/dscn0813-S.jpg) (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/16826391_DMgbSW#1281907632_ThG245C-A-LB)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-XXq6B4T/0/L/img_2614-L.jpg)

Our destination was Lubango the place of Jose the man that fought against us South Africans in the border war and the oke that entertained us 3 years ago on our Foz du Cunene trip.  We were greeted by Jose at his restaurant (under renovations currently) with a huge smile although he only placed me about two days later due to the long hair.  We were planning a trip to Namibe for a stay over, instead Jose would have none of that. He escorted us to Namibe for a day trip and that evening arranged a braai and entertainment by the old band that performed for us on our previous trip. Josef the Louis Armstrong look-a-like wood saw artist, Jose – a Johan Stemmet look-a-like base guitar player and Nando – Al Debo look-a-like guitar player.

  (http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-dGcsp7C/0/L/img_2632-2XL.jpg)
THE TRUCK IS NOT PHOTOSHOP INTO THE PICTURE, LINDA AND HAROLD IS BUSY PASSING HIM. WHICH WAS THE MAIN ROAD IS NOW UN DRIVE-ABLE BY CARS AND TRUCKS THEY REVERT TO DRIVING NEXT TO THE ROAD.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-ZCvXfWt/0/L/img_2629-L.jpg)
   I HELPED THIS MAN, HE ASKED ME TO BORROW HIM A JACK, FOR SURE WE CARRY CAR JACKS WITH US ON BIKES. PLUGGED HIS TYRE WITH SOME WORMS HE HAD 4 DIFFERENT HOLES AROUND THE TYRE, PUMPED IT AND HE WAS ON HIS WAY. DRIVE AROUND HERE WITH NO MEANS OF CHANGING A TYRE? JUST INSANE.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-364RWM4/0/M/img_2627-L.jpg)
IF YOU DRIVE AROUND WITHOUT A SPARE AND A JACK THEN AT LEAST MAKE SURE YOU ASK THE MAN UPSTAIRS FOR HELP.  :biggrin:

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-P44zBkj/0/L/dscn0506-L.jpg)
FRIENDLY FACES

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-zNCQjBn/0/L/dscn0508-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-kWrVNFk/0/L/img_2639-L.jpg)
  PLAY IT AGAIN SAM

The generosity, warmth and friendliness of these Angolans know no bounds.  We felt it everywhere we went. People do not look miserable and unhappy in fact they look quite content with their lives in this recovering country. Adults and kids wave to us, no stone throwing or outstretched hands– begging, so unlike the Himba and Lesotho kids. Maybe that is the trade mark of a tourist country versus a non-tourist country. They jump up and down with excitement when we wave back or stop for some photos.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-rxjrCgN/0/L/img_2644-L.jpg)
BEER STOP

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-gmRzqwH/0/L/dscn0503-L.jpg)
WE GOT TOLD LOVERS LIKE TO DEFACE BAOBAB TREES WITH THE GRAFFITI.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-5J2txGk/0/L/dscn0515-L.jpg)
PIKIPIKI'S ROAD SIDE REPAIRS. SKILL FULL PEOPLE THIS, NOTHING IS A PROBLEM.
  
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-5rrk5nV/0/L/dscn0513-L.jpg)
COLOURFUL HOUSES

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-R6fstS6/0/M/dscn0528-M.jpg)
MORNING COFFEE AT JOSE'S PLACE WE STAYED IN LUBANGO.
 
Angola also features jaw-drop beautiful landscapes and now in summer it’s even more so.  You can go from tropical to desert in 170km and the sea water temperature at Namibe is close to 25 degrees. I understand why so many people immigrate to this country even though it’s is hell hard to do business in Angola, even the locals have a saying “nothing in Angola is easy”.

  

Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? Added more picturers and info
Post by: michnus on May 12, 2011, 09:32:09 pm
Jose was very persistent the day before.We had to do a separate trip to Namibe with the bikes. Obviously we were not in the mood to ride the 300km round trip to Namibe in two days. One thing that was a bit of a refresher on this suggestion was that we were going to be able spend some time at Leba pass.

We left our luggage at the house and set off with Jose and his wife on his Varadero. There's quite a bike following in Lubango and they often have races in Lubango.

We set off with Jose in the lead first stop Leba pass. I can not say why I like Leba pass so much. Maybe it is because it goes back to army time, I don't know, maybe the mystery around it from that time. The pass itself is not the best ride I have done. It's such a great feeling standing on the opposite side of the pass taking in the jaw drop beauty of the place.
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-zLn9TMT/0/XL/DSCN0643-XL.jpg)
Second time this Dakar get the pleasure of riding Leba

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-5J7hH6L/0/XL/IMG2679a-XL.jpg)
View from the top of Leba pass with the road meandering down to Namibe in the distance

At the bottom of Leba pass there's a row of small stall selling food stuff. The lot sell the same stuff, at the same price. Jose spoiled us with his favourite, chicken stomachs and hearts, a bit on the tough side but very tasty.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-FZ5wbQ5/0/L/DSCN0549a-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-LLPzKb3/0/L/IMG2664-L.jpg)
Local Pikipiki's

We left to meet up with Jose's friends in Namibe at the beach front. It's a happening spot with Portuguese elders sitting around see facing restaurants drinking espresso and grappa the entire Sunday. We met a fisherman that's been in Namibe for 20 odd years and owns the only Harley in the town. It's well looked after bike and it's evident the man loves his Harley more than his kids. 
The food at these cafe's are the best. fish and chips or local lobster.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-8ttK2g3/0/M/DSCN0568a-L.jpg)
Yes it's dead Harry!
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-W6trZsf/0/M/IMG2676-L.jpg)

That evening it was party time at Jose's place with all his friends and their band that got together to play for us. It went on till 3 that morning. The band played anything from Abba to Creedence Clearwater. These people know how to party properly. Their warm hearted friendship was unbelievable we were treated as if we were part of the family for years.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-s3vjncC/0/L/DSCN0624-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-hwHc3T7/0/L/DSCN0635-L.jpg)
We meet again after 3 years

The next day it was back to Namibe to Jose's beach house. The road took us about 20km North of Namibe. We had to turn off well before the town onto a real shit road. It's a desert waste land and gave the idea of a small Fish river canyon. Unbelievably beautiful vistas. The riding in the desert was mind blowing, well for me, Linda struggled a bit but took it well and kept her head high. It was difficult for her in the sand but this woman's heart is in the right place for riding. 
The tracks run all over the place, and then come together again in a sand track just to split off again into several directions.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-VBr8dt5/0/M/DSCN0675-M.jpg)
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-CPMpfVb/0/M/DSCN0678-M.jpg)
Fooling around in the desert.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-7VjCpRj/0/L/IMG2689-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-DvkXt56/0/L/DSCN0683-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-2Qc7r7f/0/L/IMG2690-L.jpg)
Linda had a bit of a hard time, but she came out head high!

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-Z4QpjtL/0/L/DSCN0688-L.jpg)
Jose's beach house....eeerrmm, shack more that you can call a house.

Bias dos Pipas, Namibe is where the beach party will be. It’s a colourful small little community that resembles Hentie’s Bay (no shops though). Funny the water is hot but it is next to a desert, I always thought warm coastal water ensures a tropical landscape.

We spend the day with Jose and his family, they are a lively active bunch. Jose and his family left at about 8pm for Lubango but we stayed behind to enjoy a night on the beach. How many places can you still park your bike on the beach and sleep there without a worry in the world. This place is a paradise, in fact, worth dealing with some of the bureaucratic nonsense, this country offers maybe even more free living than South Africa.
You can trust on Angola to get some tough chicken and we were not disappointed the chicken were tough but tasty, the chips as always good.
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-9nNckkq/0/L/DSCN0693-L.jpg)

We went on till late that night finishing off the Carlsberg's they left us. Sorting out Africa's problems is hard work.
 
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-GWPXd4c/0/L/DSCN0711-L.jpg)
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-LRDZSZz/0/M/IMG2723-M.jpg)
The morning after!

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-n3nqJTL/0/L/IMG2692-L.jpg)
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-FdbqQNW/0/M/IMG2712-M.jpg)

We met up with Agusto in Namibe the next day, he is a friend of Jose and a 40year old fisherman who owns fishing boats with his dad and to our surprise rides a Harley he bought into Angola with him 20 years ago. He was waiting for 4 of his friends from Portugal. They shipped their bikes from Portugal to Mozambique and then rode all the way to Angola and will be shipping the bikes back to Portugal again. They were apparently inspired by our previous trip report written by Metaljockey (Erik) - “Angola not what they said”.  One of them has never ridden a bike and not to miss out on this epic expedition decided to try it on a quad. 

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-pXVZNPB/0/L/IMG2731-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-VSfv4cT/0/L/IMG2739-L.jpg)

Agusto invited us to his parents’ house for a local fish braai. This is the strangest darn thing, and maybe it’s because dual purpose riders are sort of cut from the same cloth. Yes, yes it’s a generalisation but to date all these bike riders we have come to meet have become friends of Elsebie and me. These guys felt like my friends from school I have seen 20 years ago, not as complete strangers that only met 30 mins ago.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-CCnhvCj/0/L/DSCN0712-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-jRFkfRz/0/L/DSCN0715-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-fsTPMr3/0/M/DSCN0719-M.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-8TkrQ7g/0/L/DSCN0721-L.jpg)
Having lunch at Agusto's parents place.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-grMMPLN/0/L/IMG2752-L.jpg)
Our new friends!

Bliksem, I love this and I know I will see them again in the near future even if we have to fly to Portugal or them to SA. This is what it is all about, meeting people making friends and seeing new places……….life is great!

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-HBKSSTr/0/M/DSCN0729-M.jpg)
Spoiling ourselves with a night in a banda on the beach.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-GFQsqqs/0/L/DSCN0724-L.jpg)
Heavily protected missile site in Namibe  :imaposer:

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-fdKt5LG/0/L/DSCN0725-L.jpg)
Zooom in
On the outskirts of Namibe and barely 1km out of town we saw these missiles pointing south towards SA, as per urban legend. The local story is some of the missiles are pointing towards the USA and others to SA but for some reason I doubt when they hit the button these missiles will go further than the town’s municipal border. This is even more bizarre than the Custom procedures.  I rode up to the gate where the officials sat and asked whether it is possible for me to take pictures of the awesome fire power………noa, NOA!! No,no, they said.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: Frog on May 13, 2011, 12:04:46 pm
Awesome. Subscribed :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: cloudgazer on May 13, 2011, 12:12:37 pm
Soooo awesome.

great report. great pics.

my dream kinda trip.
 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: I&horse on May 13, 2011, 12:46:21 pm
Didn't the song go "Hello Africa, tell me how you're doing" ?

Who cares, show us.

Jealously looking forward to the rest.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: De Jager on May 13, 2011, 01:07:04 pm
Enjoy it !
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: growweblaar on May 13, 2011, 02:22:59 pm
.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: redtiger on May 13, 2011, 02:27:40 pm
Epic  :thumleft: subscribe
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: Diesel & Dust on May 13, 2011, 04:22:20 pm
Soooo awesome.

great report. great pics.

my dream kinda trip.
 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:


Plus 1
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: ThunderBearer on May 14, 2011, 03:38:04 pm
Awesome pic's - really cool report   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: ratrap on May 14, 2011, 05:05:20 pm
Lekker!!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: wildside on May 14, 2011, 05:26:35 pm
Started following your RR with recognition and now just simply jealous!!!!!!!!! :drif:
Good luck for rest of your trip. Looking forward to more.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: Swart Baard on June 01, 2011, 01:51:05 pm
What a good way to sit and enjoy your lunch time at work!
Readings this RR is unbelievable!
Well done and enjoy  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: Ronell on June 01, 2011, 02:26:12 pm
Kry sommer 'hoendervleis' - dit is 'n belewenis - kan net indink watter ervaring die reisavontuur was ! Lekker en moet doen - dankie vir die deel !
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: westfrogger on June 01, 2011, 08:03:37 pm
 :laughing7:

First class!
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: 2StrokeDan on June 01, 2011, 08:31:39 pm
Fantasties Michnus, dis n lekker reis.
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: shanti on June 02, 2011, 11:02:01 pm
brilliant - well done for making it happen !
Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: michnus on June 10, 2011, 04:50:27 pm
To get back to the missile story. Nobody knows whether the missiles are in fact real or not or maybe the Angola government just bullshits everybody in thinking they are still a force to be reckon with.
I can walk in there at night and take one as a souvenir. Stupid, absolutely bloody stupid. It might be a prank to fool Google Earth to pick up on it and make the USA.  Whatever the reason I hope for the inhabitants of Namibe those old rusted missiles have been disarmed.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-vWCJBQ4/0/L/DSCN0579-L.jpg)
TIME WAS RUNNNG OUT IN ANGOLA, NEEDED TO MOVE ON

Angola provided us with a wonderful time. We will go back in the future. Agusto and I have decided to try and ride from Tombua to Foz du Cunene and back on the small bikes the locals use as transport, might make for an interesting trip. Up north from Namibe it is a riding heaven that needs to be explored.
That plan is for another day in the future. For now it was time to head back to Lubango say good bye to Jose and his family and head back to Namibia.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-4xsXPgF/0/M/DSCN0730-M.jpg)
EERIE GHOST TREE IN A RIVERBED. STRANGE AS IT'S THE ONLY ONE AROUND LOOKING LIKE THIS.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-ptdTkdb/0/M/IMG2761-M.jpg)
ANOTHER FUNNY TREE GROWING IN THE DESERT NEAR NAMIBE.

On our way back to Lubango we stopped at the Dorsland trekker memorial. You only really understand what this people went through to get there in that time. They had no roads and the terrain is anything but simple. It was not your average sissy paper pusher that can do this kind of trek.
It must have been extremely difficult for these boere to trek up to Angola.
I am humbled.

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DORSLAND TREKKER MEMORIAL WITH THEIR GRAVES IN THE FOREGROUND.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-XqGkhfz/0/S/IMG2766-S.jpg)(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-HBvh3BL/0/S/IMG2768-S.jpg)
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LUBANGO IS A HUGE BUZZING CITY.

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A MUST STOP IN LUBANGO, THE CHRIST STATUE OVERLOOKING LUBANGO

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-fPxFjLq/0/L/DSCN0817-L.jpg)
ANGOLAN WAR RUIN

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ARCHITECTURE IS MOSTLY PORTUGUESE INFLUENCE AND THEY LOVE USING VIBRANT COLOURS.  

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-9qBHdQ4/0/M/IMG2804-M.jpg)
LIVE IS GOOD IN ANGOLA, OVERALL T'S GOING OKAY FOR ANGOLAN'S

We said our farewells in Lubango and head back towards Namibia. Camping spots in Angola is non existent, camping next to the road is the way to go and actually a load better than staying in crappy hotels at 5star prices. We never had problem camping next to the road as long as you stay well away from big settlements.
Eating at shops next to the road is cheap and the food although not gourmet stuff still good and big enough portions to fill even a big hunger.

The best is beers are available everywhere even remote places stock beers.  

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THERE'S A DEPOSIT ON BEER BOTTLES AND THE LOCALS DO NOT LIKE US TAKING AWAY THE BOTTLES. BEST OPTION WAS TO EMPTY THEM INTO A BLADDER..........HUGE MISTAKE!

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-9p9pv9d/0/M/DSCN0791-M.jpg)
WILLEM, LOCAL ELDER WE CAMPED NEAR HIS HOUSE, OUT OF RESPECT WE ASKED HIM FOR PERMISSION, HE EVEN SPOKE AFRIKAANS.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-X4V55Zj/0/L/DSCN0785-L.jpg)
Last night in Angola and we camped under huge Baobab trees. We had enough beer and whiskey and it end up in a moerse party.

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(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-dLRj6Pw/0/L/DSCN0794-L.jpg)
GEEN KEER, NGOLA IS A BLIKSEM OF A BEER, DRINK JOUSELF UIT JOU KLERE UIT.
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-8pHK7Vr/0/L/DSCN0770-L.jpg)
Angola was a blast, making new friends, thrills and spills, we had it all. I will forever remember the good memories of this trip into Angola.

For now it was time to head to Zambia..




Title: Re: Tell me Africa how are you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics and info.
Post by: michnus on June 13, 2011, 08:50:00 am
Didn't the song go "Hello Africa, tell me how you're doing" ?

Who cares, show us.

Jealously looking forward to the rest.

Ye you right, when a song get stuck in my head it's not always the correct wording  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on June 28, 2011, 12:18:41 am
CAPRIVI DECEMBER 2010

Back into Namibia from Angola we headed along the border towards the Caprivi strip. Harold and Linda decided to ride back from Oshakati via Tsumeb and then Rundu. For Elsebie and myself sitting on tar that much after all the stunning dirt roads we have done it was pure torture.
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Sun down in the Caprivi after the rainsi

We headed East towards Rundu and would meet up with Harold and Linda near Pupa falls. The diversity in Namibia is mind blowing, there's deserts, grass lands, Damaraland and the Caprivi which offers some off the most beautiful sunsets and abundant wild life you can imagine.

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Life is great especially wen it is raining in the Caprivi


T4A listed some community camp sites which were all empty. We stayed at one just before entering the Caprivi strip. Cost us about nothing, was safe and had a cold shower and clean toilet. Camping at these places always offers that bit more and is a bit more special to stay over with them. Most of the times you can have a lekker chat to the locals and sit and enjoy a beer with them. They just love to talk to these funny travelers.

The old Pupa falls campsite is now a run down dump. Luckily next to them other private lodges with really cool campsites have open up and offer cold beers and even a workshop to work on a BMW. Pity these lodges got such difficult names, Tuna Mutambura lodge.

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Camping in Namibia the best in the world!

We spend two night there relaxing, and I had to fix the Dakar's steering head bearings for the first time. The lodge owner was really helpful and gave me space behind his workshop and some tools too fix the bearings.
For the rest it's easy to find peace here, sitting on the deck for hours watching the hippo's drift past and see how the sun die slowly over the horizon in a deep red glow.

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The last night there we over indulged on the wine a bit, luckily our new destination was only 300km away at Mazambala island lodge. We raced there, it was damn hot and the thought of more beers and relaxation next to a river and a pool was just what was needed.
 
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We had to pack in the luxury camping while we can, from Zambia going up, camping and nice to haves will be a thing of the past.

This is one stunning lodge, you camp next to the river and the lodge is on a island. They use boats to ferry people to and fro. We were lucky it was out of season as we had the campsite to our selves.
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Super long water flower thingamajick

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-75pXsVB/0/L/i-75pXsVB-L.jpg)
This feels the same as the Everglades in Florida

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XFWL49D/0/M/i-XFWL49D-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XDSGfP9/0/L/i-XDSGfP9-L.jpg)

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Time was running out for Namibia, Zambia was next.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Minora on June 28, 2011, 07:32:58 am
Ai, hoe verlang ek nou na Namibië!!!

Baie mooi foto's  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Offside on June 28, 2011, 08:25:32 am
Thanks
Hard to get to work after starting the day following this rr.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on June 28, 2011, 01:24:06 pm
What a cool RR... Michnus, i followed your blog but rereading this is great :thumleft:, Africa seems to be doing just fine :thumleft:..
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on June 28, 2011, 01:32:04 pm
Thanks Wheelman. The blog was not much, just a means of keeping in touch, I will write more on this RR and more pics, hope you enjoy this more than the blog.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: neil123 on June 28, 2011, 01:48:32 pm
What a cool RR... Michnus, i followed your blog but rereading this is great :thumleft:, Africa seems to be doing just fine :thumleft:..
+1
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Usurper on June 28, 2011, 02:34:29 pm
 :happy1: :happy1:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on June 29, 2011, 09:00:22 am
Jis, hierdie goed sal 'n man mos in sy kantoor laat sit en huil van jaloesie!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gérrard on June 30, 2011, 07:16:47 pm
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on June 30, 2011, 07:57:19 pm
Another epic trip this will be ... :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2011, 03:01:49 pm
For the people that plan the same type routes I will add the GPS info of places where we stayed and other info at the end of the post.
Murphy you basted! PART1
They say if things go too well, Murphy will end it soon enough. Much did we know that when entering Zambia from Katimo Mulilo border post.

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ZAMBIA BORDER POST

It's a small border post and things went quick on the Namibian side. However the Zambian side was a laugh a minute. Chaos and run down dirty buildings with hordes of people standing around. Everything paid we were out of pocket around R700 for all the stupid taxes the Zambian charge. The one tax was payable in a old caravan wreck that had no seats and only a box and table for the man to write down the stuff.

Then if that was not bad enough, his stamp was warn down and the ink pad was dry, eventually I made him lick the stamp to get something visible on his tax paper.

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FAWLTY TOWERS BACKPACKERS IS THE ONLY PLACE TO STAY IN LIVINGSTON.


We ended up at Faulty Towers backpackers in Livingston, a vibrant hip happening spot. If ever you end up in Livingston across the road from Faulty Towers in the main road on the way to the falls is a restaurant The Spot.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-btkTRPj/0/M/i-btkTRPj-M.jpg)

The owners are a South African born woman and a Zambian woman, they make the best Piri-Piri chicken in Africa and at very reasonable prices. They will also make you any local dishes if arranged before the time. They really are a friendly bunch of people.

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FOOD IS EVERYWHERE AND CHEAP
Cross Africa travellers the girls can get you in contact with Dan the man, he sells insurance or better yet, COMESA insurance that you would need travelling up to Egypt. He was the cheapest we found and not a scoundrel.His information is on our site www.pikipiki.co.za

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IMPORTANT THINGS FIRST

The idea was to head for Kariba Lake and take the dirt roads that run along the lake up to Siavonga. We knew they had plenty of rain but thought we would go that way and if stuck just turn around and take the tar road up to Lusaka.  None of the Livingston folk could give us any indication what the roads along this stretch were like.

Livingston is a best experienced for two or more days. It's a small happening town with friendly folke and a busy town centre. Famous name hard liquor cost on average 30% cheaper than is SA. Obviously we stock up on Johnny Walker Black and other expensive stuff we normally don't indulge in when in SA.
There's quite a few private game reserves around Livingston that offer camping for cheap.

When at the falls on the Zambia side you can ask the customs police at the bridge to walk over to the Zimbabwe side to get a look over the falls from that side.

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FAMOUS VICOTRIA FALLS

Harold and Linda did not feel up to dirt at that stage and set off for Siavonga via the main road, we would meet up again in a day or two.  As we rounded a bend on our way to Kariba Lake near a small town called Sinazeze, Elsebie’s bike suddenly became a low rider.  The top shock bolt sheared off and the shock moved out of its bracket and, well ………………… the top part of the shock broke off dropping all the oil on the tarmac.

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SHIT HAPPENS SHOCK TOP BOLT SHEARED OFF.

As we were standing there still trying to make plans how to get the bike to Lusaka or Livingstone an ex South African farmer pulled up next to us offering some help. He farms for Zambeef close to where we got stranded.

He immediately phoned his workshop manager, Servaas, to come and collect the bike and take it to their workshops. From there their farm compound was 12KM further located next to the lake. We could stay there and try figure out how to get the bike going again.
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RELAXING NEXT TO KARIBA

The entire compound consisted of ex South Africans working for Zambeef, according to them, Zambia is South Africa 20 years ago with regards to ease of living. Everybody is safe and crime is virtually zero. A beautiful spot with very generous people.
That evening we were invited to a braai with the farmers, that turned into a party that lasted well into the early hours of the morning.

They say booze don't solve your problems, it sure as hell helped with the kak feeling I was sitting with. The entire night I was mulling it over how to get this bike out of there and the bloody time it is going to set us back with. The only thing I could do was to get the shock out the next morning and see if there's any thing I can do to get us out of the place.

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WE LOVED EATING AT THESE FOOD STALLS, CHEAP AND TASTY
The biggest problem was the farm is so remote, it's nearly 400km back to Livingston and 450km to Lusaka. The previous day when we offloaded the bike the spring unhook and the bike stood as if everything was okay.
We decided to pack up greed the friendly farmers and try and ride the bike as is to Lusaka. As long as the spring work we will be fine. At this stage I still did not know what exactly broke.

Elsebie insisted on riding her own bike and like on a pogo stick unceremoniously hopped her way as we road on to Lusaka.
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FIXING THE DAKAR'S SHOCK

I got hold of Kurt (Adventurer) and he was able to get us a new (2nd hand) shock flown into Lusaka within the next few days. We ended up in Lusaka at Chachacha backpackers.

As we rode into the grounds Neill aka Jenson Button was sitting on the floor with a despondent look on his face motorcycle tube in one hand and a knife in the other contemplating cutting it up as a liner for his front tyre. Nice surprise to see him and the XT made it so far. Fuck it mate, lets drink beer and then I will help you sort it out.
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CHRISTMAS CAMPING AT CHA CHA BACKPACKERS IN LUSAKA

There’s not much to be said about Lusaka it’s a big busy African city. The big South African companies like Foshini, Game, Truworths & Shoprite together with China taking over with big gusto. 

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Game stores also decide to get some action in Zambia. Only problem is their qualified people decided to sell Tweetalige rekenaars in Game. Where de hell did they get the idea Afrikaans will sell in Zambia.

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TWEETALIGE AFRIKAANS/ENGELS KINDER REKENAAR BY GAME LUSAKA

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OHLSSENS BEER, DON'T KNOW WHERE IN THE WORLD THEY STILL MAKE THIS.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Ian in Great Brak River on July 18, 2011, 08:44:24 pm
There's always an adventure brewing with you guys... lekker read !
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on July 22, 2011, 03:21:20 pm
Keep it coming I am loving this.It makes me so liss.
Title: Fuck you Murphy!
Post by: michnus on July 25, 2011, 12:49:31 pm
Murphy se moer Part2

It was just after Christmas and Cha Cha Backpackers was overflowing with an unsavory dodgy bunch of Indian travelers, coughing, belching and convulsing to such an extend that the entire camp were up early at 4am. Harold as the passive one nearly got physical with one of them just before sunrise. It was the funniest thing to see this normally calm pacifist lose his temper that bad. He eventually also had to crack a smile at the situation.
There are better places to stay in Lusaka, we just had to stay there due to the spares we were waiting for.

The owner of the backpackers maybe didn't know what backpackers meant when he allowed an entire village with kids and elders to move in.  In any case so you learn.

We set out of Lusaka for the nearly 800km trip to Monkey Bay hopeful that the bikes are sorted and we will be able to hit the sandy beaches in two days’ time.

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CROSSING THE LUANGWA RIVER BRIDGE

Unfortunately the basted Murphy had other ideas for us. I was still riding with the smell of fresh rain when my bike suddenly over heated and dumped hot radiator water all over my left leg. This is not the kind of engine trouble I was hoping we would have to deal with on this trip, and especially this early into the trip. Shocks, tyres, chains, but not over heating engines or similar problems that can potentiality stop a trip. Fuuuuck!!

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BOYS SCOUT PEDDLING AFRICA TOP TO BOTTOM, THEY CONSUME BAGS OF RICE AND PAP TO KEEP THEM GOING.

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WE OFTEN MADE BEER STOP, THE HEAT AND HUMIDITY DRAIN FLUIDS QUITE QUICK.

As a troubleshooting exercise we took out the thermostat, rode it and the red light came on, next swop out the heat sensors, nope, not that, red light comes one after 2km. Then only option that was left was to check the water pump, but for that we had to get to a place to stay. We had no choice but to tow the bike to the nearest town.  Just before Nyimbi we came past a motel that looked like a ghost place, hotel Baghdad came to mind.

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MURPHY THE EVIL BASTARD HAD TO PLAY A TRICK ON US AGAIN

Hotel Kacholola’ owner George and his grandson Richard were so helpful. We were very great full for the cold beers, in a Paraffin fridge, and the clean rooms even without running water.  The place is run down but you will go far to get a more friendlier and helpful host.

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HAVING ICE COLD BEERS IN A GHOST HOTEL, BROKEN BIKE CAN WAIT.

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VIEW FROM OUR ROOMS
The next morning Harold and myself got the surgery underway. I called Adventurer, and his advice was a easy check, take the pump cover off and see if the impeller spin by hand, if so the waterpump gears are moer toe.

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ZAMBIA BIKE WORKSHOP.
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The only clean place we could found was this dilapidated grass thatch that were used to be part of a veranda. The view over the mountains from there is just jaw drop beautiful.
It took us a bit of time to figure out what's what, eventually we got the clutch cover off and all the other bits. Our worst fear came true the waterpump gears were moer toe.

At this point, I was really a bit down and out on the bikes. The Dakar's are suppose to be bullet proof bikes, I made sure the last few years that I got to know everything about the bikes and what needs to be looked at. It took me 3 weeks to prepare the bikes before the trip and make sure everything was looked after. My bike was on 40000km and never gave one problem.
How I could have missed the the fact that the waterpump gears could fail was a mystery to me. Only now after the fact and lots of research the problem is more related to 2004 and 2005 year models and later.

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CANDLE LIGHT DINNER AT HOTEL KACHOLOLA
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ABOUT THE ONLY THING A GAS CANISTER IS USEFUL FOR

What to do next? We had no spare gears, we had a waterpump kit but no gears. It was around 500km back to Lusaka, but we cant tow that far it will take us forever, and then we miss the Malawi new years party. We decided to try and get the bike to the border where Metaljockey can come and fetch us.

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THESE WOMAN OVER CHARGED US!

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GETTING MY ASS KICKED BY A BOY.

We spend the rest of the day trying to find transport for the bike to the border, washing and cleaning stuff. We had a great time with all the locals, playing chess and just sit drinking beers. These rural towns are small gems, we left everything on the bikes at night, nothing gets lost or stolen.

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FIVE STAR LIVING, NO REALLY THIS IS FUN

It’s good to have good friends around. Metaljockey and Plottie convinced another South African man, Sarel to borrow them his brand new VW Transporter to come and fetch us in Zambia. If not for that we would not be able to get there in time for New Year’s, and both Plottie and Erik made considerable effort meeting us there.

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FIRST TRY TO GET TO THE BORDER. LUCKILY METALJOCKEY MADE IT.
We tried from our side to arrange a truck or van to get the bike to the border and have Metaljockey only drive to the border. As things go in Zambia it’s African time, and as the day pasted all prospects that we tried to arrange turned to nothing.
At last after 5pm a local teacher arrived with his borrowed Chinese van we started loading the bike. As luck would have it, as we set off to get to the border which would have taken us till after nine that evening, Metaljockey called and said he has just cleared the border and will see us later the evening. We can then leave the next morning early for Malawi.

With all the trouble our stay turned out to be an enjoyable time, we had a great experience with the locals and their heartwarming helpfulness.

Malawi here we come!!!!!

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Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on July 25, 2011, 01:24:51 pm
Must say I guess these things are all part of the trip however irritating at the time.But add up to the overall experience.I am really enjoying this Michnus don't stop.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Herms on July 25, 2011, 03:39:48 pm
Lekker read Michnus  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Valiant on July 25, 2011, 03:59:39 pm
Eish !!!!!!!! en ek dink daar aan om my 1150Gs Adv te verkoop en weer `n Dakar te kry omdat ek so min ry  ???
Afgesien van jou teespoed is dit `n moerse nice trip en foto`s, eendag as ek groot is........... :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 26, 2011, 04:07:05 pm
Valiant omtrent enige bike kan dit doen, dis meer die wil om dit te doen wat mense terug hou.  ;)

As jy n bucket list het, sit die trip by.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Oupa Foe-rie on July 26, 2011, 05:27:30 pm
Dit was nou wragtag lekker leesstof om die middag om te kry .................  :mwink:

Lekker report en mooi fotos Michnus .......................  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on July 27, 2011, 09:01:10 am
Man that guy Murphy sure can cause problems....Buuut means you get more drinking time :thumleft: Lekker report Michnus!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Bessie on July 27, 2011, 09:49:03 am
(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Africa-travels/Angola/i-dGcsp7C/0/L/img_2632-2XL.jpg)

ek kannie help om te lag as ek hierdie pad sien nie... ek en my pa het mekaar so hier en daar verloor tussen die bosse en dongas deur. dis ongelooflik om te dink die ding hou vir honderde kilometers lank so aan.

michnus... hopelik hang ons gou weer saam uit... julle is awesome.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 28, 2011, 02:04:13 pm
Bessie is nogal n rubbish pad om te ry. Ons het mense gevra hoekom hulle nou nie net die stuk nie klaar maak nie, en al wat hulle se dis politiek.

I would not want to do trucking into Africa, the truckers at the border post told us some horror stories how they often have to sit there for weeks and because of stupid reason like a spare tyre weren't listed on some document.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on July 28, 2011, 04:04:49 pm
We're waitin :-[
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 31, 2011, 07:04:18 am
We're waitin :-[

soon  :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Drifter on July 31, 2011, 12:05:39 pm
Great RR

in 2008 i did cape to Cairo ( Landcruiser) , this brings back some great memories,next time im def taking my bike.

Now i cant wait for your next post,especially Malawi,What a country  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: zetman on July 31, 2011, 02:35:58 pm
Wow another Roll of Hounor RR thanx for doing this love the report keep going
Title: BEWARE- MALAWI BONGI FEVER
Post by: michnus on August 01, 2011, 06:53:37 pm
MALAWI'S "NEVER LEAVE DISEASE"

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DN9qzXj/0/L/i-DN9qzXj-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hkrX9H2/0/M/i-hkrX9H2-M.jpg)

In short, Malawi turned out to be this warm exotic paradise people told us about. Golden sandy beaches with clean water, super friendly people, cheap beer and food, and the best snorkelling. It's easy to understand why so many people get a serious infection of Bongi fever. The local term when referring to over landers or travellers that get stuck in Malawi and just never leave.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X53hwbK/0/M/i-X53hwbK-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-56vZxNj/0/M/i-56vZxNj-M.jpg)
FAT MONKEYS, MONKEY BAY

Lake Malawi is not your average dirty smelly dam, the water is crystal clear, it's clean and the most beautiful coloured tropical fish swim around the rocks in the shallow water. Why Lake Malawi is this way I don't know. It's not a typical lake  as with Kariba for example.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xDSmGQT/0/M/i-xDSmGQT-M.jpg)

It's a small country with not much industry other than tourism, and some tobacco exports. Their money is not worth much and you look like a drug dealing gangster with all the cash you have to draw at ATM's. Driving around Malawi is slow as most people live next to the road nothing more than 80 is about the max for safe driving.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NsZV6Dj/0/M/i-NsZV6Dj-M.jpg)
DRYING RACKS FOR KAPENTA FISH

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dnJrShp/0/M/i-dnJrShp-M.jpg)
DUGOUTS, BOAT CAN LAST FOR AROUND 10 YEARS.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nfpM6PF/0/M/i-nfpM6PF-M.jpg)

The land is cultivated and worked by old people the hard way. For the rest it's a dirt poor place. South Africans have made this a popular holiday destination and some locals can utter a few funny sounding Afrikaans words.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XJDLNS3/0/M/i-XJDLNS3-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Zhd38vz/0/M/i-Zhd38vz-M.jpg)
ANY TOY WILL DO

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mPLfKxD/0/S/i-mPLfKxD-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-39mQt6Q/0/S/i-39mQt6Q-S.jpg)
THEY ARE WORKING COPIES, THE DETAIL IS AWESOME. ROAD SIDE SHOP IS CALLED TOYS'R'US

As we drove into Fat Monkeys in Monkey Bay Cape Mclear, Plottie as appointed head of the local welcoming committee promptly shoved some beers into our hands as we climbed out of the Kombi. Elsebie rode her bike from Zambia as the Kombi could only take the one Dakar. Unceremoniously we parked the broken Dakar under the Mango tree to be fix after the new year and we wasted no time setting up camp. Linda and Harold have decided to stay over in Lilongwe for a few days before meeting up with us again.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-43WQhHW/0/S/i-43WQhHW-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nnTgKCX/0/S/i-nnTgKCX-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Wj2mfDg/0/S/i-Wj2mfDg-S.jpg)
DRUG DEALER AMOUNT OF PAPER ONLY PAID FOR FEW BURGERS

There is no other place near the Southern side of Malawi with the same island style feeling. Loads of young people from all over the world frolic around on the beach with golden brown tanned bodies. It's hot and humid, even at night it's hot and the mosquito's are the kind that can drag a small kid out of it's bed by the legs.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ffHLV4F/0/M/i-ffHLV4F-M.jpg)
FAT MONKEYS BAR, GIN AND TONIC'S AND BEERS, FOR THE REST READ THE DAYS AWAY.

The water is a comfortable 25"degrees and perfect for sitting around at the shore with friends consuming copious amounts of beers. The clean water had the kids spend their days in the lake. It's a very cheap holiday, camping cost around R50 per stand per day. Breakfast at the lodge cost around R80 for two people. Beers go for R8 and soft drink cost cheaper. 

 (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JjDfXHJ/0/M/i-JjDfXHJ-M.jpg)
SHA NANA
The first thing the next day was to go swim at a secluded beach not far from the lodge. The boat's name is Sha nana and it's skipper is Jumbo, a super friendly chap with a huge white smile. The man and his crew got this cool laid back attitude to them. Noooothing is a problem.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-L85z9hd/0/M/i-L85z9hd-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TTLqb9r/0/M/i-TTLqb9r-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8DSdTTP/0/M/i-8DSdTTP-M.jpg)

Just after Christmas many of the South Africans that holidayed their left to spend New Year in South Africa. The next day the camp was empty and only Metaljokey and family stayed over to enjoy the New Years party. Around the same time two bikers riding from the UK to CP arrived.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bQtZCJN/0/M/i-bQtZCJN-M.jpg)
HAROLD AND LINDA TRYING TO GET RID OF BONGI FEWER WITH WATER MEDITATION THERAPY

It's really great meeting up with people doing the same kind of trips, exchange ideas, news, places to stay and avoid. We still had the difficult part in front of us and they are on the holiday side of things going down to SA.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jfzL5NV/0/L/i-jfzL5NV-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zPTPNGv/0/M/i-zPTPNGv-M.jpg)
  SUN DOWNERS AND SUNSETS 

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: terminator1 on August 02, 2011, 07:17:33 am
thanks Michnus - keep em coming  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on August 02, 2011, 09:53:09 am
thanks Michnus - keep em coming  :thumleft:
I'm overdue for a Bongi fever attack :thumleft: Nice one Michnus....
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 02, 2011, 11:27:37 am
Wheelman some people get it bad and the thing is once you have it pills don't work any more. People try beers but that makes it worse.  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on August 02, 2011, 02:22:55 pm
Wheelman some people get it bad and the thing is once you have it pills don't work any more. People try beers but that makes it worse.  :biggrin:

This bongi fever sounds like a good fever.Guess depends on what's in the bong when you smoke it :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 02, 2011, 03:02:43 pm
Apparently the smoking does not help it makes matters worse. But then it's always good to use it to ease things up  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on August 12, 2011, 01:33:55 pm
Mich,where's the rest of the report or is that it for the time being.Charl said he saw your bikes somewhere up north in storage.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on August 12, 2011, 02:13:31 pm
Mich,where's the rest of the report or is that it for the time being.Charl said he saw your bikes somewhere up north in storage.
I think the Bongi fever has finally got to him :pot: :imaposer:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TeeJay on August 12, 2011, 04:07:55 pm
Great report Michnus - thanks for posting. I followed you guys on Pikipiki but tell me what has happened - did you not make it all the way to Germany? Is the trip finished now - are you back in SA?

Please keep it coming - nice writing - brilliant pics!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: JustBendIt on August 13, 2011, 06:22:24 am
Good story and great pics so far - I like it a lot !

I really want to do this one day when I am big - I envy you guys big time - maybe I should retire now and get on my bike and "suck off into the funset"
 
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 13, 2011, 09:11:29 am
Great report Michnus - thanks for posting. I followed you guys on Pikipiki but tell me what has happened - did you not make it all the way to Germany? Is the trip finished now - are you back in SA?

Please keep it coming - nice writing - brilliant pics!
Mich,where's the rest of the report or is that it for the time being.Charl said he saw your bikes somewhere up north in storage.

Well got a interesting ending so far, keep reading, I will update Pikipiki later.  :mwink:

Will post a new installment later today or tomorrow. Working through all the pictures that's taking up the time, as I want to add more pictures here and more info.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Nardus on August 14, 2011, 11:08:15 am
My Kroon !! Nice to read again after pikipiki. Awesome stuff. Will pop in every so often to get the updates - thanks.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: letsgofishing on August 14, 2011, 05:47:18 pm
Once again Michnus, your journey is absolutely amazing!
Thanks for the huge amount of effort you've put into this  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Fenderbender on August 14, 2011, 05:55:17 pm
 :thumleft: :thumleft: Gooi Mich .
Title: Malawi and the bush mechanic's workshop on the beach
Post by: michnus on August 22, 2011, 03:36:05 pm
Parties all behind us it was time to tackle the broken Dakar. The bike was standing beneath the big old Mango tree since we arrived and we decided to conduct the repairs there as it offered the most shade.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HC5Rmfh/0/L/i-HC5Rmfh-L.jpg)
METALJOCKEY AND HAROLD CHOONING THE BIKE ;-)

The parts for the bike took longer than expected and I still had to get the bolt that broke off in the water pump casing fixed. That in itself is a problem sitting at Monkey Bay. It is not the kind of town that offers engineering services or anything more than what you would get in Pofadder.

The only other town capable of drilling and tapping a screw is Lilongwe and that is a full day’s excursion getting there and back. It is slow going in Malawi the roads are narrow and there’s always people on the road, the average speed is less than 70km/h.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mSr42HG/0/M/i-mSr42HG-M.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3tXjxPp/0/S/i-3tXjxPp-S.jpg)
HIGH-TECH WELDING SHOP

There is a port at Monkey Bay that also repairs ferries and cargo ships that cruise Lake Nyasa. With nothing to lose I took Elsebie’s bike and head off for the works hoping that they would be able to repair the casing for me.

When talking to people and they seem confident enough making a repair but the first thing they want to do is weld, I get a bit worried and I had to explain to these artist that if they fuck-up this casing I will have to get a new one from SA and that is another week and R4000 down the drain.

 Yes, yes we understand came the answer with a broad smile on the face, and no, it still does bugger all to my confidence meter. They then proceed to weld an extra piece on the stud with a welder that draw enough power to dim Koeberg’s nuclear facility’s lights for a few seconds.  The works was taken over by a new company and the equipment is not in the best shape


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qpMvHvG/0/M/i-qpMvHvG-M.jpg)
RIGHT TOOL FOR THE JOB? NO....IT'S THE ONLY TOOL FOR THE JOB

When that did not work they clamped the casing on to the biggest and oldest drill press they had and with old drill bits the one technician had to fetch at his home, started drilling into the casing. The drill bit was also bent but that did not deter them on their quest to show this pale face that they can fix this small problem.  Well two hours later and R80 poorer I set off with a skew drilled casing that I was hope would work.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-V7bfmC2/0/M/i-V7bfmC2-M.jpg)
BIKES GOT THEIR NEW PAINTINGS

The hole drilled and tapped as scew as a cork screw pig's penis and tapped with two or three threads able to pull the bolt I got the thing back. Adventurer was on speed dial and had to help out with information. I could not buy radiator fluid and used the lake water instead. I did not think it was such an issue and will replace the water in Dar once we get there.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kfFkWTS/0/S/i-kfFkWTS-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-T3gv7XK/0/S/i-T3gv7XK-S.jpg)
BUSH MECHANIC EXTRAORDINAIRE

Jenson Button, aka the Neill helped me fit everything together and I must say I felt a bit red faced that a man travelling on an a bike the same age as Jan van Riebeeck’s boat, 6V Yamaha is helping me to fix the supposed to be best bike for this kind of trip. All in good spirit and teasing from Neill while fixing the bike we set off North to Nkhata Bay and Mayoka Village.

Stupid bloody mistake with the radiator fluid that would come back to haunt me!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kWBCQsf/0/S/i-kWBCQsf-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8Vt4dRS/0/S/i-8Vt4dRS-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6mBQwF6/0/S/i-6mBQwF6-S.jpg)
JAMBO THE SKIPPER FROM SHA-NANA COOKED US SOME FISH AND RICE

Fat Monkey's is a popular place for overlanders to chill and enjoy the local beers. While there we met up with Thomas and Ruth. He is a Optometrist that bought this 30 year old truck in East Germany, load his bike and set off straight through Africa and the Sahara desert to SA. Eventually after 2years he stopped in Malawi on hs way up again and got Bongi fewer.
It' now 3 years later and they are still there. He married Ruth, she did a solo trip on a Transalp around Aus, Tanzania, New Zealand, and then the East. She also ended her trip in Malawi and the Transalp are still her only bike.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tTHp2x7/0/S/i-tTHp2x7-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3hZwkfw/0/S/i-3hZwkfw-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-35zRJGf/0/M/i-35zRJGf-M.jpg)
HIPSTER HIPPIE INTERIOR OF THE EAST GERMAN ARMY TRUCK

Then these two mad Brits pulled in, both on their way to SA.
James came down the East side of Africa with his normal 2001 GS heading towards SA. He strarted last year August.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jhLknNF/0/M/i-jhLknNF-M.jpg)
JAMES AND HIS TRUSTY 650GS


Ted also came down the East Coast and also quit his job to do this trip. He did South America and Europe before trying Africa. He insisted a DRZ is the bike to do this trip and it is still going strong. Some of us disagree but with the Dakar breaking all over the show we can’t argue. All with soft luggage.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jS7F2SW/0/M/i-jS7F2SW-M.jpg)
TED AND HIS DRZ400

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vLSNdT9/0/M/i-vLSNdT9-M.jpg)

As things go, we scribbled on each others bikes for good luck.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CRpbjQ5/0/M/i-CRpbjQ5-M.jpg)
JOHAN AND ISABEAU FROM WILD&HEART WAS ALSO THERE

Malawi really crept deep into our hearts, it’s a wonderful country with equal measures of friendly faces and colourful people, Malawi people are a laid back bunch there’s not much that upset them.  It is different to a sea vacation the water is clean and makes for easy swimming compared to sea swimming, no tides or currents when snorkelling and we spend more time swimming than normally when having a holiday at the coast.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X7NjpwK/0/M/i-X7NjpwK-M.jpg)
kIDS DO THE DARNEST THINGS

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nbq2SKq/0/S/i-nbq2SKq-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8nNzHx6/0/S/i-8nNzHx6-S.jpg)
EXCHANGE ROUTE INFORMATION AND DRINKING BEERS....WHAT A LIFE


It was time to get going, we have spend a good 3 weeks hanging around there, the fewer was getting to us.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VxW3hTt/0/M/i-VxW3hTt-M.jpg)
TIME TO GET OUT OF THE WATER AND GET GOING
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TeeJay on August 22, 2011, 03:53:50 pm
Lekker Michnus.....thanks for all the effort in writing this and posting pics etc - much appreciated!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kerritz on August 23, 2011, 08:46:22 am
Soos altyd.....AWESOME stuff!!  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on August 23, 2011, 08:59:49 am
Soos altyd.....AWESOME stuff!!  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
+1000 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Justin on August 23, 2011, 09:03:34 am
I'm getting fever just reading this!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ChinaPete on August 23, 2011, 10:48:34 am
Awesome trip and pictures. What do those with the fever do to support themselves?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Justin on August 23, 2011, 10:53:21 am
I don't think I wanna know. Just now I pack up and leave!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 23, 2011, 10:56:56 am
Awesome trip and pictures. What do those with the fever do to support themselves?

very little, well... some buy lodges or camping spots to rent out and such small stuff. Good enough to leave you with a good standard of living and very little stress. Thomas is a Optometrist and his wife a teacher. He applied for a job in SA and Namibia and it took months for them to get back to him, in the mean time both applied in Malawi for jobs and got permits within weeks, 3 years down the line and they still love the place.

They do what many other do, get overseas people to come there and take them for tours. It's good business if you into something like that.
Malawi lake is unique, there's nothing like that anywhere else, it's paradise with clean water.

You can buy a business or property there but your money will not leave again as their currency are worthless. There's loads of business opportunities in Africa, Saffers imho are just a bit short sighted to see it.   :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 23, 2011, 11:05:44 am
Come on boys, surely there's some of you that's going to do this in the future, ask more question, what can I tell that might get you interested in doing something like this?  :mwink:

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ChinaPete on August 23, 2011, 11:15:27 am
Can you buy property outright and what's the prices like lakeside?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 23, 2011, 11:17:35 am
I am not sure about buying out right but I know you can buy a joint venture. There was one that was standing empty half build as a lodge, and the price was not too bad, I will lie if give an amount, but it was less than what you would pay for a upmarket townhouse in SA.

You obviously get more if you can create jobs.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ChinaPete on August 23, 2011, 11:36:12 am
It takes a certain personality to be able to do the idyllic lifestyle thing, I know a Dutch guy and a Brit who each bought a dive resort not too far from each other on a tropical island in the Philippines, both couldn't wait for retirement to their little pieces of paradise.

The Brit lasted less than a year before he was driven crazy with boredom, the Dutch guy is still hanging in there but by all accounts he's also starting to miss the corporate life. According to him, the challenges of running a people business like a resort is also a pretty stressful in a different kind of way, complaints about staff, service, food, etc.,etc. tends to take the enjoyment out of it pretty smartly.

I'm not saying I couldn't live like that or at least give a damn good go but it's definitely not for everyone.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ChinaPete on August 23, 2011, 11:37:44 am
Michnus, just another question, what's the best time of year to visit the lake, weather wise.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Hondsekierie on August 23, 2011, 02:54:10 pm
Fokkit, lekker het ek nou gelees. Dankie vir al jou moeite  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 23, 2011, 02:56:48 pm
Agree, lodge or camp site living is not for everybody. There's other stuff to do, engineering shops, building trade, whatever. It's a laid back country with warm friendly people.

They do have a bit of a dumb-ass government, but nothing worse than in SA. Though they wanted to ban farting in public a while ago..yes ban farting :D

Nicest time is during the dry season from May to mid-November. From May to July the landscape is attractive and vegetation green and lush, and temperatures cooler. We were there in Dec -Jan and it was still great.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GEE-SH on August 23, 2011, 03:12:37 pm
Thanks Mich, great stuff - my hart vreet kak van jaloesie!!!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ChinaPete on August 23, 2011, 07:49:40 pm
 :thumleft: Thanks, definitely a place I'd like to visit.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: SuperDave (RIP) on August 24, 2011, 11:19:58 am
Come on boys, surely there's some of you that's going to do this in the future, ask more question, what can I tell that might get you interested in doing something like this?  :mwink:


I would love to do a trip like this...!   :drif:
...me thinks one of the BIGGEST problems is being desk-bound...

I wouldn't say getting leave for 2 or 3 weeks is the problem(although 3 might be pushing it!), more like all your riding buddy/ies getting 2 or 3 weeks leave at the same time...!   :(

I know most of your tour group are self-employed but that only made it a bit easier, if at all.
With arranging someone to look after you business and all that...

Now, if I was retired right now.... :ricky:

I think they should force the retiring age right down to 35...or 40....!   :thumleft:

Great RR Michnus!  Very inspiring like all your other RR's! 
Thanks for sharing...again!   ;D


Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TeeJay on August 24, 2011, 11:32:56 am
I'm interested to know what the costs are - camping fees in particular? - next to fuel I reckon camping fees are the next most expensive part? What I mean is - lets say you are doing a month long trip - how much should you budget for camping - is it about R200 per day on average? Does this change if there are 1 or 2 of you?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 24, 2011, 12:40:27 pm
It is understandable some jobs and family commitments are always the biggest issues, it's just the way the cookie crumble. That said, and to be blunt about it, if you really, really are besotted about travelling there is ways of doing this.

Most of the travelers we met up with all sacrificed pretty dearly to embark on trips like this. It is a once off for some or a continuum type expedition for others, some quit their jobs, some sold their companies, others had their kids with them in 30 year old converted army trucks, but yes, no two ways about it, you have to sacrifice to be able to venture on such a trip. I am de moer in with myself I did not start doing this 20 years ago.

We have heard all the excuses why people can not do trips, but in the end it's only excuses people offer as reasons to themselves because they are not motivated enough to start it. For sure we had it easier, because we do not have kids, and our businesses.

Mark Twain pretty much summed it up:
Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did.
So throw off the bowlines.
Sail away from the safe harbor.
Catch the trade winds in your sails.
Explore. Dream. Discover.
~ Mark Twain ~

 With some off our close friends we do not share foto's and our experiences as they just are not travelers and get bored quickly with our ramblings. Not all are the same, some just love reading about other peoples travels, we also do it for them in a sense.

On our trip as we met up with travelers you fast come to realize that you do not need to finish a trip in one sitting.You are not winning anything, you're not more of man in the eyes of your friends. That is about the biggest mistake people make when planning trips like this.

Honestly to jaag up through Africa in less than 4-6 months is a absolute waste of money and time. I am horrified and it's soul destroying to me when I ask people so did you visit this place or that place or did you eat Njira at that cafe and they say no we had to make up time. It is the same as going from Cape town to JHB and back 14 times. Also true some people just do not have the time and 3 weeks is better than nothing, and hopefully they will do it again in the future.

You experience and see very little. It's the same with people going to Moz, Mal, Zam, Bots, SA in two weeks and 5000km, you see nothing but tar. Rather spend time around one country and see what they have to offer. Look at our ride reports on the site, even in and around SA it's always the same routes, not many venture into new places and explore new routes.

I can tell you the secret, and it's actually not that difficult.  :mwink:

If you only have two or three weeks at a time, do one country a year. As you head up north store your bike with backpackers or lodges, most offer those services. Obviously if you have more time you can do more distance before storing your bike. People do not charge a lot of money for storage.

If you have a family buy a old Toyota 4x4 double cab or station wagon, parts are cheap and you DO NO NEED all the shit South Africans drag with them. It's a African joke that South Africans carry anything plus the kitchen zink, spot lights on the roof, trailers and Old Man Emu suspension which by the way you can't get anywhere except SA. You take the family with and store the car and fly back home. Air fairs into Africa are not that expensive if you doing it once a year or every two years you have time to save up and quit the cigarettes. If we had to do it in a car we would still only have the 50kg luggage we shared between us.

We met up with 55 year old woman travelling alone in a Tazz she bought in Uganda, we met up with a 80 year old couple driving a old ambulance that they used for the last 15 years and already done Aus and other countries. Back packing if you do not have a car is as cheap as shit to go around in Africa and actually quit a lekker adventure.

With regards to camping and expenses Teejay. South Africa and Namibia are the most expensive countries to tour. Once you hit Zambia, Malawi and up camping pretty much fall to R50-R80 per campsite and most of the times we camped in the field. If you eat from cafes or restaurants next to the road, you can get away with R80-R100 per person per day for food. If you stick to self made food, tomatoes, pasta and so on you can even go cheaper.

Beers are R8 and soft drink R4. You don't need water purifiers and that shit, there's bottled water everywhere in Africa and a few tablets will sort out the gremlins if you have to drink water from a river.

We dropped our speed to 80-90km/h and we increased our fuel consumption with 30%. If you take the main road up through Africa only doing 400km per day you will cover the 14000km to Cairo in around 35 days. We were in Addis and ended there on 19000km.

It is cheaper to travel than to sit at home, fact!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: SmokenFly on August 24, 2011, 01:48:09 pm
Flipping stunning pics
Title: Malawi Fat Monkey's camp and surround pictures
Post by: michnus on August 24, 2011, 05:01:03 pm
Using Smugmug.com it might take a few seconds to load.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TmDsJQB/0/M/i-TmDsJQB-M.jpg)
BOAT RIDE AROUND THE CORNER FROM FAT MONKEY'S WE SPEND A DAY SNORKELING AND HANGING AROUND THE ROCKY OUTCROPS WITH SMALL COLOURFUL TROPICAL FISH NIBBLING AT YOUR FEET.

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SOME OF THE BEST SUN-DOWNERS YOU WILL EVER ENJOY IN YOUR LIFE

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MAGIC OF LAKE MALAWI, TROPICAL FISH AND CRYSTAL CLEAR WATER.

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HOME BASE FOR NEARLY 18DAYS, BOUGHT BEERS AND SODA'S IN CASE LOAD AS IT'S MUCH CHEAPER

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GMfvp4R/0/M/i-GMfvp4R-M.jpg)
BEERS ARE CHEAP AND BREAKFAST AROUND R12-00

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5F7GTCH/0/S/i-5F7GTCH-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hFk6svC/0/S/i-hFk6svC-S.jpg)
PLENTY OF YOUNG BACKPACKERS

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CAPENTA'S FOR LUNCH, NOT BAD WITH COOKED PUMPING LEAFS

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-45WPbq6/0/M/i-45WPbq6-M.jpg)
LIVE IS TOUGH, THIS IS A LOCAL TRAVELLING SALESMAN WITH HS HOMEMADE DISPLAY CARTON BOX, SKIPPER OF THE BOAT GAVE HIM A LIFT BACK HOME


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q3fhG4s/0/M/i-Q3fhG4s-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Hornet on August 25, 2011, 08:53:12 am
Nice trip report and wise words indeed, time for another trip!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: KTM Jagermeister on August 25, 2011, 09:14:59 am
Ek is moerse jaloers, stunning !!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TeeJay on August 26, 2011, 11:00:36 am
Thanks Michnus - noted your comments on camp fees and food etc.

Looking forward to the next episode  :3some:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: charlw on August 26, 2011, 01:56:37 pm
Mich,where's the rest of the report or is that it for the time being.Charl said he saw your bikes somewhere up north in storage.

I saw Michnus's bikes plus a few scooters from SA in Addis. Here is a pic I took. I had been following Michnus's blog before I left and was aware his bikes would be around 9 degrees North of the Equator. Sniffed them out at Wim's spot.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ThomTom on August 28, 2011, 06:56:19 am
I enjoy your comments and insight on what traveling is all about.  Lake Malawi; backpacked there in’86, some 10 years later did a 4x4 trip there and back.  Both trips where great, it does not matter how you get to the Lake, you will have fun; it is serious chill out place!  As you pointed out, it is also very affordable; riding/driving time, and for those of us with limited ime, it is only a bit more than two days drive.... 1800 km
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: subie on August 28, 2011, 09:52:57 am
I really like the spirit of this trip and report. :ricky:
Wish I had the people skills.
Africa is not for me unfortunately. Few times I was there I was just overwhelmed by the corruption (borderposts)
The leeches that seems to materialise from everywhere etc.
I admire you okes that can just talk their way through all and laugh it of as part of the experience.
Unfortunately my personality keeps me imprisoned in my comfortzone south africa and will I have to stick to it's backroads.
Great RR  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: buzzlightyear on August 28, 2011, 10:05:00 am
I love the scooter with the GP plate in the background, left.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: The_Boma on August 28, 2011, 10:12:40 am
Plenty of “GP” plates around here in Malawi, Last week 4 bikes came thru, whoever the guy’s were they seemed a bit rude, passed them and stopped, waited for them, they just drove past without as much as a wave. They were not dogs and no markings on the bikes.

Three weeks ago ran into some guy’s from Cape Town. Nice people hope to see them back here again

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 29, 2011, 12:12:30 pm
I love the scooter with the GP plate in the background, left.

Those guys are doing the same as us. Go as fat as time permit and store the bikes. The problem though with such small bikes are that they mostly stick to tar and miss some of the really nice places.

But that said it cost them f-all and if they have to abandon the bikes it won't bankrupt them
Title: Malawi fewer slows our pace..........
Post by: michnus on August 29, 2011, 02:44:12 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4qvb9mP/0/M/i-4qvb9mP-M.jpg)

It was time to move on, the fewer in Malawi is bogging us down. The bikes was fixed and looked after as good as we could, and with some sad faces we rode out of Monkey bay on our way north to Nkatha bay, our next stop. We were bit behind on time for our 6 month planning but thought we would be able to make it up once out of Malawi as there's parts in Tanzania that we can skip.

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INFRASTRUCTURE NOT IN GOOD SHAPE

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KIDS ARE ALWAYS FAST TO GET SOME CAMERA ACTION

We hugged the coast line of the lake. It's a old narrow road with derelict bridges. For the first time we also saw the famous lake flies of Lake Malawi. Apparently they are so small they can fly through a mosquito net, the larvae at the same time shed their eggs and then get blown up by the wind in their billions to life for a day.

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WE SAID GOOD BYE TO JENSON BUTTON AND HIS OLD XT AND BRANDED HIS HOME MADE PANNIERS AS TRAX

We heard some say they do not even have stomachs. It’s mind blowing to see these clouds of flies sweeping across the lake. We also wanted to try them as the locals make small cakes from them, but in the end we could not find any. People told us the flies stink of fish for some reason. It's unbelievable that such small creatures can make up such huge clouds. They are visible over vast distances on the horizon of the lake.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tx6DHds/0/M/i-Tx6DHds-M.jpg)
LIFE IS TOUGH IN AFRICA

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MYOKA VILLAGE IN NKATHA BAY

Mayoka village in Nkatha bay is a must stay, it’s not really geared for kids as there’s no beach. For adults and young travellers its paradise! The lodge hangs on a cliff it was started 13 years ago. From the shower or rooms you can look down into the lake and see the small blue fishes play between the rocks. They offered some of the cheapest rates for their rooms and their food was the best we had in Malawi.
For the time stayed there our bikes were left at the gate with all our kit and they had a guard 24hours a day looking after our stuff.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6rnwbqC/0/S/i-6rnwbqC-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-j6qMgfP/0/S/i-j6qMgfP-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4mtkcX9/0/S/i-4mtkcX9-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FhGZt9k/0/S/i-FhGZt9k-S.jpg)
ENVIRONMENTALLY FRIENDLY TOILETS AND OUTSIDE SHOWERS ARE ALL PART OF THIS COOL LODGE

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wpNBmm2/0/S/i-wpNBmm2-S.jpg)  (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zXMZh6G/0/S/i-zXMZh6G-S.jpg)
FOOD AS ALWAYS ARE GREAT AND THE PARTIES NON STOP.

We went on a free boat trip they offer once a week for cliff diving, Fish Eagle feeding and beach games. The most amazing experience is seeing a Fish Eagle take a fish out of the water right in front of you! I don’t think anywhere else in the world will you see something like this.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wbsN6mk/0/M/i-wbsN6mk-M.jpg)
FISH EAGLE DOING WHAT IT DOES BEST, CATCH FISH, AND HE NEVER MISSED

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CLIFF DIVING

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5V82jhF/0/S/i-5V82jhF-S.jpg)  (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ckCkWFv/0/S/i-ckCkWFv-S.jpg)

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We end up spending another 5 days at Myoka, the Bongi fewer was seriously getting to us. We were behind on time and had to make up skipping other parts of Malawi but it was worth it.

The small town of Nkatha bay is a busy little place with it's own prison and harbour. It's great walking around there exploring the small shops and talking shit with the locals. Some straight out ask for money while others will at least say hello first.

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A TRUE WTF MOMENT?

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WELL JA, WHAT CAN I SAY, THEY ENFORCE THE LAW

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3KX3GWn/0/M/i-3KX3GWn-M.jpg)
THIS MAN WAS ONE OF THE FOUNDERS AND BUILDERS OF THE LODGE 13 YEARS AGO, HE EARNED HIMSELF THE NAME CHOCOLATE MAN. HE HAS BEEN SELLING CHOCOLATES EVERY NIGHT AT THE LODGE SINCE IT OPENED. THE LODGE IS A COMMUNITY OWNED PLACE.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2kvg6XD/0/M/i-2kvg6XD-M.jpg)
LIFE IS GOOD, WHAT MORE CAN YOU ASK FOR?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: RD on August 30, 2011, 05:42:03 am
Quote
The small town of Nkatha...

Did you not perhaps visit Kande Beach? It is close to Nkatha Bay and was the high light destination for me in Malawi when we visited recently. Nice report Michnus, thanks for sharing.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + in
Post by: michnus on August 30, 2011, 02:28:12 pm
Nope do you have details? Did you post on your ride report?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on August 30, 2011, 02:38:01 pm
Michnus, you continue to enrich us with your RR. Thanks it certainly has created a desire to travel up to Malawi soon :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Fuzzy Muzzy on August 30, 2011, 02:43:07 pm
Quote
The small town of Nkatha...

Did you not perhaps visit Kande Beach? It is close to Nkatha Bay and was the high light destination for me in Malawi when we visited recently. Nice report Michnus, thanks for sharing.

+1, it is like an oasis.. This RR makes me so lus to go back to Malawi.. what an awesome place. Great RR keep it coming
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on August 30, 2011, 02:54:06 pm
Yip,I could also get bongi fever and stay in Malawi somewhere near the lake.Maybe start a small business of sorts for a few years until you get bored.Do a massage course and offer to rub those young backpacker babes............but work mornings only and jol at night...............ja with the young babes of course.   Shite the mind boggles.  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on August 30, 2011, 03:13:19 pm
Yip,I could also get bongi fever and stay in Malawi somewhere near the lake.Maybe start a small business of sorts for a few years until you get bored.Do a massage course and offer to rub those young backpacker babes............but work mornings only and jol at night...............ja with the young babes of course.   Shite the mind boggles.  :imaposer:
Plonker I like your thinking :imaposer: Michnus, I think you may be responsible for a mass exodus soon... :eek7:  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: plonker on August 30, 2011, 03:25:13 pm
Folks seriously ,if Malema does not get snot klapped today,it may be the thing to do. :-\
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 30, 2011, 04:59:31 pm
hahaha hey, if it gets oke's off their asses and taking some small bit of risk to enjoy life a bit more, then so be it. Enjoy the beers while at it  :thumright: :mwink:

But thanks, I hope you enjoy the rr and for what it's worth stir the soul for some adventure and riding.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: FarScape on August 30, 2011, 09:00:04 pm
Malawi bucket list - checked.  :thumleft:

So what happened to Jenson after going your separate ways? Is he back in SA already?

Keep it coming loving it so far.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 31, 2011, 12:02:32 pm
Yes he is back in SA. I must say I have huge respect for him, he is kind of guy I call a real adventure rider, he had no skills and no money but a desire to do such a trip and he did it. He took the oldest half dead bike he could afford.

This is part of his mail he send me, it's really funny.

...........................spent a couple nights in kande beach and then nearly a week in mayoka/nkata bay. this was cos there was no fuel again and i had to wait it out. eventually i found fuel in mzuzu and left 20l at mayoka while i explored nyika plateau and livingstonia and caught the ferry in the north. picked up my 20l and got dropped off on the moz side.
i was like an inavios on normandy. i got depositted on the shore by a liferaft and everyone was shouting in the dark. the cops thought i was american and didnt want to let me enter without a visa. to make matters worse i had exceeded the no. days permitted in malawi and had to change it on my passport in pen (twice). but i made a cock up and it looked messed with.
 
eventually i got through and down the eastern side of the lake where  i cut across back into malawi/ blantyre. i stayed with vin diesel and his wife there. they were very hospitable and i saved a chicken from death by their dogs (long story).
thomas (vin diesel) went with me some of the way down towards the moz border and i crossed over the big railway bridge o ver the zambezi and got down to beira.
 
someone stole my ipod in beira and i continued down through ponto do oura and back to durbz....................


Vin Diesel is the name we gave Thomas the East German Optometrist with the truck and KTM. Super nice people.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3hZwkfw/0/S/i-3hZwkfw-S.jpg)

Jenson Button does not spend money on shit, he build his own cell battery charger himself, somehow chooned GPS maps on his old Nokia phone and made his own Ipod holder from checkered plate. And he ate rice and drank water to save money. All of us been there and it's no skin off our backs we offered him beers but he eventually declined, moegoe, seker maar sleg gevoel.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VXr5j7b/0/S/i-VXr5j7b-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LTPzgk8/0/S/i-LTPzgk8-S.jpg)
LEATHERMAN AND SMALL SAW CAN MAKE YOU A GOOD TO GO IPOD POUCH.

The last day we left Monkey bay I gave him a 500ml oil I had left, he decided his bike needed more oil and overfilled the damn thing. Took him a good hour to suck it out with a thin tripper pipe  :D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gypsey on August 31, 2011, 12:52:08 pm
Awesome trip report and brings back loads of memories, we were in Malawi in December too but in a landrover.  Camped under the mango tree at Fat Monkeys on our way up the lake but left when all the South African I think you refer to arrived.  On our way back home we partied in New Years @ Cool Runnings with James & Ted (p5 of your report).  When we left Cool Runnings they were also planning on moving on, guess though they didn't get too far seeing as they stopped @ Monkey bay  ;D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 31, 2011, 01:28:05 pm
Cool Runnings is a really nice place to stay, we did for one evening on our way to Myoka. Did we missed you somehow at Fat Monkeys?

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(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rXxDtQZ/0/S/i-rXxDtQZ-S.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + in
Post by: RD on August 31, 2011, 08:25:10 pm
Nope do you have details? Did you post on your ride report?

We stayed there for two days - look at day 11-13 on my ride report. When you there then the world outside becomes less important!
(http://threefarmersandagreek.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/11041003.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gypsey on August 31, 2011, 10:28:02 pm
Yip we would have missed each other @ Fat Monkeys, I think we were there around the 20th - 24th before we moved further up the lake.  We didn't quite make it Nyika Plateau and instead got chowed by tseste flies at Vwashi marsh.  From there we come back down the lake, spent an idylic number of days at a spot called Makusi Beach which is south of Nkhata bay. And then sadly it was time to head back to the land of smoke and the grindstone.  Was a great 3,5 weeks however and Malawi will see us again.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gypsey on August 31, 2011, 10:46:44 pm
We also had artwork added to our transport @ Fat Monkeys, we just had a bigger canvas to work with this time around  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: See Duiwel on August 31, 2011, 11:05:31 pm
LEKKERRRRRRRR!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 01, 2011, 03:21:44 pm
Thanks RD will check it up, is it listed on T4A?

Gypsey the 25th we were sill in Lusaka waiting for a damn shock. Richard is the man that painted our bikes, he is quite an accomplished painter
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: RD on September 01, 2011, 08:21:41 pm
Thanks RD will check it up, is it listed on T4A?

Yes indeed, search Kande Beach with the Find - Features - Name function on T4A and it will direct you. S11 57 07.0, E034 07 19.4 +/- 58 km south of Nkatha Bay. It also have a nice peace of soft sand road leading there the last +/- 5kms which makes it a bit more unique.
Title: Tanzania is calling!
Post by: michnus on September 05, 2011, 03:44:08 pm
Tanzania was calling and we had to get our asses off the beach and leave the paradise feeling behind. Us all were fighting Bongi fever. Eventually we had to concede the only way to get rid of Bongi fever was to get on the bikes and get outta paradise, the place was fast consuming our lust for travel.

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REMEMBER THE FIRST RULE OF MUD, MUD MUST NEVER KNOW YOU ACTUALLY RIDING ON IT.

We got on the road with heavy rains predicted for our entire journey up to Tanzania. In the first town the GPS routed us through a market and the road suddenly ended in a muddy track that route through a busy wood market. Harold got out too late and dumped the bike into a ditch. The eager helpers broke off more stuff on his bike trying to get it out of the ditch than what the fall did in the first place.
The poor man was now without a rain suite, yes he lost it on his way to Myoka, and now his screen is in three pieces. Well at least half his face will be out off the wind.  :biggrin:

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ALWAYS SOME FRIENDLY PEOPLE AROUND TO HELP A MAN OUT OF TROUBLE, PAYMENT TALK LATER.

Halfway between Nkatha bay and the Tanzania border we came across this place where, they proclaim to have the only and oldest natural tree branch hang bridge in Africa, the bridge apparently date back to early days of evolution. They say at one stage a hippo tried to cross but got stuck halfway through. This is also currently the only way across the river for the locals, so everything they buy have to go across this bridge.

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MALAWI HANG BRIDGE

At the same place they have a small stuffy dirty smelling dung hut of a museum with only the front door offering light into the place of worship. The story goes that they had two gods, the one for a man and the other for a woman. The one looked like the "duiwel uit die kinder bybel" and the other one like some ugly thing with horse tail like nose hairs. Donno why they show the woman statue with the nose hair, and if woman ever did grow nose hair that long? Maybe it was a sexual thing in the past, who knows?!

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These were the gods they prayed to and worshiped for rain and good fortune. On a question what happened to the gods why are they not praying for them anymore? Well, the man said, the Christians came to Malawi and taught us that these gods are no good, they are just statues. We must change to worship the Christian God and so we changed, but now the Muslims are also wanting us to change again. Go figure! As with Uganda it seems the biggest growing faith is Jehovah witnesses in Malawi.

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We had to sleep over at Sangilo lodge just before the Malawi border with Tanzania and is owned by Mike a old pommy with the usual faded "I love me mom" and anchor tattoo's on the forearms. We were sitting having a beer when I noticed a sticker on the fridge with Ewan and Charley on it. The owner immediately said that they stayed over at his lodge when they did their Long Way down trip. So where did they sleep, I asked?  

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EWAN AND CHARLIE LEFT THEIR MARK

The last two bungalows next to yours was the answer from Mike the owner of the lodge. I had to go look, I could not miss the opportunity to stand at the same place legends walked and slept, and as I stood on the deck of the bungalow I could feel their presence, it’s a hair raising experience, seriously it's spiritual!  I felt my skill level increase just standing there, it was stronger than religion! And then I heard it, a soft voice said, "may the force be with you" The others said i was just drunk, but I know better.  :biggrin:

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THE BUNGALLOW CHARLIE AND EWAN STAYED IN WHILE TRAVELLING DOWN AFRICA. GO THERE IF YOU NEED THEIR SPIRITS TO GLOW UPON YOU FOR MORE SKILLS

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THEY LIKE THEIR VIEWS OF THE LAKE EVEN WHILE THEY DOING THE LOO THING, BUILD THE LOO HIGHER.

The place is a bit expensive but the food is good and the service you would expect from such an pricey establishment. I had to repair yet another puncture and Mike even offered to help. It seems quite a few bikers stay over with him.

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FIXING PUNCTURES AGAIN, TUBELESS, FFS, TUBELESS!!

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THIS IS MY LAKE, I AM THE BOSS, LIFE IS GOOD, NOW LEAVE ME!!

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The next day on our way to the border we came across the birth place of a dugout. As fascinating as it may seen a boat carved and chiseled out of an entire tree. The sad part of this is the fact that's another old tree falling and currently Malawi is running out of old trees as most are being used for dugouts.

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MALAWI LAKE DUGOUT

The prices of dugouts are also on the increase. I had a chat with some of the locals and asked whether we can help them look for better priced boats they can use that is cheaper to run and maintain and is environmentally friendly than the current option, as its unsustainable. It takes them around 2 months to complete a dugout and will according to type of wood sell from R2500-00 to R8000-00 per boat.

HELLO TANZANIA!

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DEPENDING ON YOUR TASTE THEY MANUFACTURE THESE OVERSIZE STUFFED LOUNGE SUITES, GOOD MARKETING STRATEGY, STACK E'M HIGH AND SELL E'M CHEAP!

It is strange how people and cultures differ between the countries in Africa. Every time we rode into a new country everything changes, the people, the way they do business, their cultures and life style. With all the cross border migration between Africans since the beginning of time one would have thought it would have even out things between people to the extend that cultures and lifestyles would be pretty much on par between countries.

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Tanzania is pikipiki besotted, Malawi and SA not much. Tuk-Tuk's do duty as taxi's allover in Tanzania, Ethiopia, Zambia, Uganda but not anywhere else. Most Africans love eating from street cafe's, SA it's not a big thing. Even in Malawi it's not big.

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In SA we have upcoming middle class and it's evident from the Transkei as subsistence farming is getting less and less. It's easier to farm with cattle. Money get send from the working class in the cities to the rural people who just buy maize at the dealers.
In Malawi and other African countries farming are still the only way of getting food on the table. It's a simplistic view of looking at things, but you get the picture.

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NONNE WYN! SAL DIT WERK MET VAMPIRES, WANT DIS DONNERS DUUR?

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FROM TANZANIA UP IF YOU ASK FOR SAUSAGE YOU GET THINGS THAT MORE RESEMBLE A 60 YEAR OLD SANDTON STUCK UP WOMAN'S HANDS THAT HAD TO MANY BOTOCKS INJECTIONS IN HER LIFE. WRINKLED UP VIENA'S COOKED IN OLD OIL AT LEAST IT HELPS SETTLE AN UPSET CONSTITUTION.

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THE RULES OF THE LODGE NUMBER 5 AND 6. LOST IN TRANSLATION?

Tanzanians are a jovial loud bunch, very friendly and seems they all have too much of the extrovert gene in them. They spend time on the street till late at night talking, drinking and just being social with the rest of the folke in their small towns.
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 It was a wonderful surprise when we figured out we were able to stay in cheap bed and breakfast establishments for less than what we paid for camping in SA, Namibia and Zambia. We stayed over in a small town on the way to Dar Es Salaam, the managers name is Sarafina and a very nice and super friendly girl. The place was brand new, with Chinese fittings everywhere. It's as if they loaded the entire building in pieces in China and shipped it to Tanzania.

We eventually paid less than R100 for two people for the room and breakfast.

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OILCOM? MORE LIKE CAMELCOM! THERE'S A MILLION NEW FUEL COMPANIES OPENING UP IN AFRICA, MOST OF THEM CHOSE NAMES THAT LEFT US CHUCKLING IN OUR LIDS.

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WATER AND FUEL DELIVERY BUSINESS. NOT MUCH BUT EVERYBODY MAKES SOME MONEY.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: charlw on September 06, 2011, 12:09:14 pm
Hi Michnus

I met another East London chap in Makumi working for Goodyear tyres. He is based in Mbeya. He explained how some of these cyclists obtain their fuel on the black market. They put a plastic container on the side of the road and place a rock on it. They wait for a truck to stop as this is the sign that they are willing to buy fuel from trucks.

Fuel is then siphoned from the fueltank of the truck. Everyone scores except the truck owner who is  wondering why these trucks are so heavy on fuel?!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Cable Tie on September 06, 2011, 01:19:47 pm
Quote
The small town of Nkatha...

Did you not perhaps visit Kande Beach? It is close to Nkatha Bay and was the high light destination for me in Malawi when we visited recently. Nice report Michnus, thanks for sharing.

My recent stay there was plagued by rowdy overlanders. I didn't like it. Nice setup but it is after all a overlander stop so be warned if you dislike them like I do don't go to Kande...
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Jacobsroodt on September 06, 2011, 03:21:45 pm
Excellent! Subscribed.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: krister on September 06, 2011, 04:35:27 pm
 :thumleft:  Wow!  Sal later klaar lees en kyk!  Dankie, Michnus!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 07, 2011, 02:17:09 pm
Charl have you seen on the main road in Zambia to Dar through the nature reserve they skim diesel next to the road in broad daylight it was like a filling station for diesel thieves, was if it's a normal thing.

Cable tie, where's your report? Are you back in SA?

On a different note I have to link the pictures from Smugmug.com, I know it takes time to load but to upload pics to the WD site makes for a super shitty report.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Cable Tie on September 07, 2011, 03:50:31 pm
Yes Michnus ek probeer myself dwing om te maak of ek bly is om weer deel van "society" te wees, maar dit gan maar moeilik....

Ek haal nog werk in maar sal seker in die volgende maand begin werk daaraan.

Ps: vir die wat nie weet nie, Michnus en sy Goose is legends! Enige iemand wat Oos Turkana sonder back-up in die somer doen    is!


Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 08, 2011, 09:29:56 am
Ek hoor jou, ons is so naaaf gat dit is net nie waar nie. En ek praat nog gereeld met van die mense wat nog travel en dit maak dinge ook nie makiliker nie.

Baie mense het gese dit is n life changing experience en dinge sal moontlik nooit weer daarna die selfde wees nie. En dis wragtag waar. Maak n mens se oe oop vir wat regtig belangrik is in die lewe.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: charlw on September 13, 2011, 07:19:56 pm
Charl have you seen on the main road in Zambia to Dar through the nature reserve they skim diesel next to the road in broad daylight it was like a filling station for diesel thieves, was if it's a normal thing.



Saw it often in Tanzania, Michnus. Even north of Dar, on the way to Tanga.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Cable Tie on September 15, 2011, 10:23:02 am
En toe?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Charka on September 19, 2011, 10:19:34 pm
Waneer kom die res..
Title: Pole Pole.........Slowly Slowly is how Tanzanians do things.
Post by: michnus on September 26, 2011, 06:47:25 pm


TANZANIA
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“Pole Pole” in Swahili means slowly slowly! That is how the laid back people of Tanzania live life in this east African country. Everywhere you go you hear Jambo, Jambo….hello hello with broad grins and inviting faces.

The moment we crossed the border into Tanzania it is as if we entered another continent, the people are doing things differently here. There's much more Pikipiki's running around doing taxi duty and the riders love their bikes, they dress them up with fake flowers and neon colour rattle can spray paint.

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Let me go back to the border crossing between Malawi and Tanzania.

For one, up until now I considered all border officials as the lowest life form on earth, they are rude, power mongering officials with only one thing on their minds and that is to make life hell for anybody on the other side of the counter. Enter the Tanzanian border official - individuals with smiles, they have hearts and a sense of humour of some sort. Harold and myself looking at each other in disbelieve, Twilight zone or something?

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On the AA border crossing schedule SA residents still needs a visa for Tanzania and it cost US$50 per person, that's a lot of beer money! We have heard that that might have changed and Harold inquired at the counter as we slide our passports over. Funny, as Tanzanians do not need visas when entering SA.

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ROADS TAKE A HUGE BEATING WITH THE HEAVY TRUCKS AND TRAFFIC

Without ceremony the lady official was off with our passports into a room behind her, and came back without them. Wait there she said! After 20min another official with a straight face come calling us and instructed us to follow him into the room. There's 4 of them sitting and one talking on a cell.

Oh shit, we thought, what now! The older one ended his cell conversation and informed us that we are indeed correct there is a new directive out for SA passport holders, no visas needed for Tanzania anymore SA passport holders but because they do not have it on a stamped piece of paper they will stamp our passports and we must report to Immigration in Dar Es Salaam for them to make a decision whether we have to pay visa cost or not.

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AROUND R30 FOR BEERS AND FOOD PER PERSON.

We were bowled over, Harold had the look of a man that was just bitched slapped with a 3 day old fish in the face, wet and nasty. This is not possible, border officials that are actually nice and gave our dollars back to us, there must be a catch, why would any border official do anything more than what is expected!?

We know moving around in Dar Es Salaam would be hell, so we said to the man we would actually rather pay for the visa than spend a day running around Dar standing in queues trying to convince another one of his border official species not to have to pay for a visa. No..no.. you go, we make you a favour he said!  Ya..riiiiight mate! We left looking very confused and baffled with our US$100 back in our pockets.

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ROAD SIDE RESTAURANTS, THE BEST FOOD AND DIRT CHEAP. GOATMEAT WITH CHIAPATA'S

Little did we know this would come back at us!

Tanzania really is a freaky place. The people are much more colourful bunch than the previous African countries we have crossed. They are just as friendly and inviting, with big smiles and waves but their way of doing things are different.

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PIKIPIKI'S EVERYWHERE WITH SPARES AND MECHANICS IN FULL SUPPLY.

All along the main road to Dar Es Salaam we past small villages. The road is lined with lodges and small road side bars in zebra colours and Safari names. They really embrace the safari and wildlife tourism spirit.

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Everywhere there's people manufaturing beds, furniture, doors and anything else from wood. They are actually quite good at it and some of the offerings look like very good quality. Strange that South Africans can’t get such small industries up and running.

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THIS TRUCK GETS A TOTAL ENGINE OVERHAUL NEXT TO THE SIDE OF THE ROAD, ONLY THE BLOCK WAS STILL IN THE TRUCK.

Tanzania also turned out to be the cheapest we have paid for accommodation on the entire trip. For a double room with shower, TV and what not, we paid the same as for camping in other countries! Beer cost R5-R7 for a beer and every locally owned lodge is affordable.

The moment you want to stay in a lodge owned by South Africans or Swiss or some Expat you will pay your ass off. Most travelling South Africans are to shit scared to stay in local lodges so they rather pay over inflated prices to stay at places where they can connect with a white face.

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FARKING MAIN ROADS, I HATE THEM!

We also figured out some people verwar kak en kwaliteit. When a white expat lodge owner and that include any lodge run or owned by white Europeans or South Africans, say their lodges are eco-friendly you must know you will pay top dollar for a dump with showers with no water and a long drop. I know I generalise a bit, but there is reason for it.

When they use the word Sanctuary in their name it gets even worse, the protected mosquito's will drag you out your tent at night. When you order food and they will tell you it takes time to prepare good food, what they actually say is we do not have a chef and not much more than bread in the kitchen, we will go kill one of the neighbours old chickens.

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EVERYBODY SELLING THE SAME STUFF

The first night in Tanzania we stopped at Makambago for petrol and by the time Harold and Linda got to the pump there was no more fuel left. We decided to look for a place to stay in the town, but like most small towns it is run down and looks dodgy to say the least.

While waiting for them to look for other stations I drove up their main road and saw a lodge that looked like a safe place to stay, it was behind big white walls.  In the end it turned out to be a very well looked after place, run by Sarafina Takunda a black Muslim lady. We paid R150 for the room including TV new bed and breakfast.

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ABOUT R500 BUYS YOU THIS GROOVY KOOI

This was cheaper than camping rates! She was extremely helpful, arranging for us to eat at a nearby bar and the best from the place was its innocent presence that overwhelmed us. Even the next day at breakfast joking about all the Chinese materials that was used to build the place we thought we did not hear what she said about the price. To our surprise that is the going rate for local self-run lodges.

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SOME EVEN OFFER SAUNAS

As with Angola over turning trucks are also a national sport and past time in Tanzania, we can only surmise that there’s none or very little training and qualification needed when applying for a license. Driving is SA is 100% safer than in the other Africans countries we have traveled, these are extremely dangerous drivers, going into the opposite lanes in blind corners, passing in the face of oncoming traffic and every other dangerous manoeuvre you can think off.

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NATIONAL SPORT, OVER TURNING TRUCKS, TANZANIA IS ON THE OLYMPIC TEAM.

In Iringa we stopped for something to drink and I notice for the first time while checking the bikes for leaks or parts busy falling off, my bike’s radiator hoses are still swollen up after 15min standing and the other three bikes hoses are back to normal. Not more shit, I thought! But this can’t be good, so I swopped the radiator caps with Elsebie’s bike to try and figure out what is going on. 

That afternoon while looking for place to stay I notice water weeping out of the bleed hole, which is the bloody seals I have just replaced 1000km back in Malawi! I double check to make sure I fitted the seals correctly. I did, and now it is even more confusing because it means the bike is not releasing the pressure in the system after the bike was switched off. For some reason this have damaged the seal.

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IRINGA AND THE SHIT HITS THE FAN AGAIN. THE DAKAR START TO PISS OUT WATER AGAIN FROM THE BLEEDHOLE

We were still 300km away from Dar Es Salaam and as we get further away from SA getting parts to us will become more of a challenge. My sense of humour is fast replaced with frustration.  I am constantly thinking what’s going to break next, or when I come around a bend seeing one of us next to the road the first thing going through my mind is what de hell has broken now. I can help myself with basic mechanics but I do not have the mechanical know how to deal with radiators or blown gasket type repairs.

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DAR ES SALAAM AND IT'S SWELTERING HOT WITH HIGH HUMIDITY

I pretty much missed all the scenery and animals next to the road while passing through the national park on route to Dar, as I had to get miles behind me to Dar before the seal let go and lose all the water in the radiator. Strange, when I ride it does not seems to lose water, but as soon as the bike is parked 10min later it drips water from the water pump weep hole.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Justin on September 27, 2011, 08:06:23 am
Tanzania looks lekker!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TeeJay on September 27, 2011, 09:01:51 am
Aaahhh nice to read some more - I check here regularly for an update - thanks Michnus - please keep it coming - really enjoy reading about your travels.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Avontier on September 27, 2011, 12:43:28 pm
Epic trip.  :thumleft: Malawi is next on my bucket list.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 27, 2011, 04:21:21 pm
Apologies for the late update guys, lately time is not my friend will update for Dar Es Salaam over the weekend.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TeeJay on September 29, 2011, 08:36:31 am
Apologies for the late update guys, lately time is not my friend will update for Dar Es Salaam over the weekend.



No worries - I'm sure all dogs appreciate the effort (I sure do).  :3some:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Harry the Buffalo on October 01, 2011, 08:34:38 pm
Yeh :thumleft: Keep it comming :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: charlw on October 02, 2011, 11:15:24 am
I have also been waiting for your reports. Very interesting. Africa is unique.
Title: Dar es Salaam and saucy Zanzibar
Post by: michnus on January 28, 2012, 06:17:11 pm
It was late in the afternoon when we drove into Dar Es Salaam and headed straight for Mikadi beach resort. It was sweltering hot and the humidity hovered in the mod 80's. The resort is a overlanders spot and a bit run down but a good place to stay and it's right on the beach.

We had to plot our time and stay in Dar since I had to get new parts for the bike and wanted to visit Zanzibar. The first letdown was that we could not arrange to ferry the bikes across to Zanzibar. The bottom line was that the ferry was to expensive and the cargo ferries only traveled to Zanzibar and back once every fortnight.

Dar is a typical African city and a bit of a shit hole. There are a few nice spots and the vibe in the city are easy going and relaxed. There's many nice spots to dine and wine and the evenings are warm and windless.

We decided to take the ferry over to Zanzibar and spend 4 days romping around the island drinking beer and worship the sun god.

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Mekadi Beach resort Dar Es Salaam

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Linda's birthday and we quaff away on beer and wine.

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Do I have to say more?



Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: LangKat on January 28, 2012, 06:24:18 pm
I was hoping you would start adding posts to this again  :thumleft:


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Do I have to say more? [/center]


A friend and I stayed at Mikadi for a few nights last year. Our flight arrived at 2am though so we didn't bother booking accommodation. We slept on the beach next to Mikadi and saw that sign the next morning!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 28, 2012, 07:22:25 pm
These were the ones on the toilet doors. I must say the outdoor showers were quite groovy except for the salt water. We eventually move into one of the skew Banda's for not much more money.
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Title: Saucy Zanzibar
Post by: michnus on January 28, 2012, 09:19:58 pm
Zanzibar turned out to be more of a tourist island than we expected – almost everything in Zanzibar is setup with tourism in mind. Spice tours, town tours, park tours, Prison Island tours, …
The island can be split into 3 areas:
-   Stone Town, rich in history with its very old buildings, small alley ways, impressive doors and markets.
-   The South with beautiful beaches, expensive lodges and the national park.
-   The Northern beach area, buzzling with bikini and speedo cladded people, parties and many activities. This was where we headed!!

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Paradise Island

Transport to and around Zanzibar could be very expensive if you do not shop around. We left Dar Es Salam with a ferry called, Kilimanjaro – the air-conditioned, first class luxury view will cost you $40, but makes the 70km to Zanzibar enjoyable. Regardless of ‘The Karate Kid’ movie showing repeatedly!

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The story goes that those pointy cobber knobs were to keep Elephants away from rubbing against the doors in India it made it's way across to Zanzibar

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It turned out to be quite a mission to take our bikes across with us – quotes around $250usd per bike makes renting a Vespa or Piaggio for roughly $20usd fair enough. Elsebie, Martijn, Wibien and I rented a ‘well-worn’ Suzuki Vitara for $30usd a day and made a beeline for the North. If you thought bribing is well and ripe in SA – you should see it around Zanzibar and Tanzania! We were stopped 4 times in 2 days – and blatantly asked for money as all our permits and paperwork were in order. Linda and Harry decided to rent motorcycles to stay in the spirit of the trip..

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Use more fuel per mile than an Elephant tank!

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Local transport

In Stone Town we met our guide, arranged via a person in Dar, Amour (yeah, ‘Love’ is the direct translation of Amour!).  Initially we thought that we do not need a guide, but little did we know how important it was to have a tour guide for Stonetone – the history needs explaining and not to miss some very interesting titbits about the cities spicy past, and then a negotiator is essential.  ‘Love’ was the perfect guide for us, not overbearing but quiet, knowledgeable and keeping a steady island pace.

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The Mercury bar named after Freddie Mercury is a happening hip spot! (Check out the roof fan!)

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Life on this island is slow and easy. Looooove it!

Stone Town turned out the be the birth place of Freddy Mercury and it seemed fit to go to the Mercury pub first – traveling is known to be a thirsty job and the arrangement of beers must be explored!

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There is an evening food market everyday with an abundance of sea food and other foods like sweet pancakes with banana and chocolate spread.
The locally made cane sugar drink goes down well in the heat.

The small alleyways of Stone Town are amazing, initially you feel you can get lost quite easily.  You will find almost everything you need in these small alley shops. The history screaming at you once you see the doors, which played a huge role in showing off wealth, religion and origins.

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The local fish market is right out of Asterix and Obelix village. Very busy and a thick fish stench sits in the back of your nostrils. The sad sight are the fish on the floor, it's enough to drive anybody to become a vegetarian.

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   Boat building by hand and the traditional way.                                Roadside food, just love it!

You will not go hungry in Stone Town – there are so many restaurants, drinking spots and then the legendary night market in the square.  Take lots of small change as it is SO DIFFICULT for the sellers to find change … they seem to profit not only out of the sales but by making sure you return for your change or eventually telling them to keep it.  We sampled some of the fish sosaties, coconut milk bread, banana & choc filled ‘pizza’ and sugar cane drinks.  It is exciting and wonderful!

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Half day excursion to Prison Island from Stonetone with the snorkeling and a visit to these 120 year old frisky tortoises.

The Prison Island tour takes you to a small little island visible from the harbour. Originally intended for prisoners but later used for the quarantining of incoming ships and passengers – thus managing illnesses on the island.  The snorkelling was fantastic, the island so beautiful and the tortoises – well for a 185 year old one … still frisky!

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Sun-downers from one of the bars in Stonetown offers some of the most beautiful sunsets and is worth spending some time with friends from early afternoon.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Pietcoke on January 29, 2012, 12:48:44 am
Great RR Michnus :thumleft:

Thanx for all your efford just for us dawgs to read on the WD forum :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 29, 2012, 10:29:19 am
Great RR Michnus :thumleft:

Thanx for all your efford just for us dawgs to read on the WD forum :mwink:

It is difficult to write on the trip and uploading pictures is pure hell. That's why I post it here with a bit more info and more pictures.  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 29, 2012, 12:51:10 pm
The northern beach area of Zanzibar is where the young party and frolic in the sun. You can easily spend quite a bit of time on this side of the island. Snorkeling, diving, wind surf, sail, fish, go pub crawling or just do some people watching late in the afternoon while watching the sun set over the turquoise waters.  The beaches range from picture perfect white sands to rocky cliffs.  You will hear friendly ‘Jumbo’ calls everywhere and the food is as always colourful and good.

If I have to choose between Mauritius and Zanzibar, this place will win every time. It's laid back and not as touristy.

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Drinking to the god of bikes.

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Everybody and every animal has good time in Zanzibar, except for chicken and fish, they get eaten!

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It was time to head back and fix the Dakar. Harold helped me and we erected a make shift cargo sail roof for shade. It's hell hot and there is no way we can work for 4-5hours in direct sun, it will boil the brains. A local guy was friendly enough to help us fix and clean the radiator and pump. The problem was the Malawi water I sued had sediment in it and it ate the water pump seals.

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There's still good men left in Africa

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On the road again!!

We were heading for Arusha a lovely scenic small town a few kilometers away from Kilimanjaro. We camped at the Honey badger over-landers lodge 15km away from Kilimanjaro. The next day we head up towards the entrance gate of Kilimanjaro just to be stopped at the gates and told we are not allowed to enter the park. Oo well, just as good is to sit at the closest pub and have a few beers.

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The road to Arusha offers plenty of stops for water. Fixing punctures became a common activity

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At the Honey Badger lodge I got this wannabe artist to paint me a Tanzania scene on my R1000 screen. Well he whole heartily fucked it up!! He took a carpet knife and cut out a vinyl sticker of his company's on my screen. Live and learn it's
.

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Elsebie trying to clean the clouds over the top of Kilimanjaro for a better picture

On our way down Kilimanjaro back to Arusha Elsebie and me took a new a track that I saw on a map that wound it's way  around the base of Kilimanjaro towards Arusha but it is not on T4A or the other map sets. The dirt track meanders through an old forest with thick under growth and stunning views over the base of Kilimanjaro.

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This was some of the best 6 hours of dirt track we have ridden in months, lots of technical sections and steep decents!

Masai camp in Arusha is about the best place to camp, there's also some rooms but horrendously expensive. Every Friday and Saturday night there's a huge party with the young from all over the world that cavort and binge till the early hours. It's a cosmopolitan mix of black and white and any other race on the face of the earth. I really feel free and home  with all these different beings having a good time around me.

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Deniz and Elif that rode from Turkey to Cape Town on their Triumph. He did some damage to the bike at lake Turkana.

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Life is good, forging new friendships and having a blast!!


Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: goingnowherequickly on January 30, 2012, 09:58:45 pm
Thanks for the update michnus... :thumleft:
The Zanzibar pics bring back a lot of memories from when I was there in 2008/9
Had a good few parties at the bar with the bike in the palm tree ( cant remember the name now - Cholos?)
Also saw the acrobatic team perform & the kids doing somersaults off the tyres...

 
Keep it coming, loving this report
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 31, 2012, 10:13:56 am
It's a stunning place to spend some time. I think if I have a choice of Mauritius or Zanzibar I will go back to Zanzibar any day!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: See Duiwel on February 02, 2012, 05:33:23 pm
Michnus, ek dink jy lieg. Julle is nie op die trip nie, jy kry die foties seker vanaf Nat Geografics. Dis net te ongelooflik om waar te wees! Wag net dat my kids klaar is met skool!

Baie dankie vir great rr!
Groete
Die Duiwel
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 02, 2012, 05:44:24 pm
Michnus, ek dink jy lieg. Julle is nie op die trip nie, jy kry die foties seker vanaf Nat Geografics. Dis net te ongelooflik om waar te wees! Wag net dat my kids klaar is met skool!

Baie dankie vir great rr!
Groete
Die Duiwel

photoshop  :biggrin:

Wel dis die bait die, ek het soveel pelle wat my vertel hulle wil graag maar het te veel familie betrekkinge wat moet klaar dat ons dit nou maar doen en hopelik n klomp lee nes ouers eventually kry om te vertaan die lewe is te kort om te mors.  :mwink:

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on February 13, 2012, 01:07:07 pm
After saving this report for over 6 months, I finally had time to read it! (Lekker kantoorure op 'n Maandag!) It is epic! This is an amazing adventure. I can't wait to read more! Thanks Michnus for sharing this!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kerritz on February 13, 2012, 01:54:06 pm
 :hello2: :salut: :wav:

Awesome stuff!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 14, 2012, 07:44:10 pm
Thanks guy's the next one is on it's way, a special on the Sereneti and Ngorogoro crater  :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on February 15, 2012, 03:15:23 pm
Thanks Michnus, as you say....Zanzibar over Mauritius anyday! Jambo :biggrin: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 16, 2012, 10:16:52 am
Thanks Michnus, as you say....Zanzibar over Mauritius anyday! Jambo :biggrin: :thumleft:


Sese island in lake Victoria a bit more rough it but just as cool place to hang.  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: wolfman on February 16, 2012, 07:15:33 pm
Simply fantastic! Can't wait for the rest
Title: ***The Serengeti and Ngorogoro special***
Post by: michnus on February 22, 2012, 11:25:46 pm
Sir David Attenborough's in his soft whispering voice,
 "More meat eaters hunt and scavenge on the short grass plains of the Serengeti than anywhere else in Africa.
"For lions in particular, this is — in the rainy season — a savannah paradise. With so much food on offer, it's a good time to raise cubs."

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Trigger happy!

In the back of my mind David Attenborough whispered in his soft spoken corny voice something about the Serengeti lions while he sit meters away from then looking at the BBC TV program photographer. Maybe because that was how I grew up, TV and the programs depicting the cruel but beautiful Serengeti planes as told by David.

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Masai and nature live togehter. The Masai do not hunt, they believe their god gave cattle to eat not wild life

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The damn Land-cruiser bounces and jumps around on the rubbish dirt road. It is hot and cramped in the back of the sardine can with the sun baking us mercilessly. The typical sweet bushveld aroma fills my nostrils as we drove into the park, it is wonderful to smell and feel the bush again.

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It is not at all, what I expected. The images of a Kruger park type formal set-up would meet us at the entrance of this mega park, I thought to myself. None of that, it is an informal affair with our guide, Salem, pays our entrance while we sip some beers while waiting and then off we went.

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Early morning, and Giraffe for breakfast

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Life is good for these kitties

Now here is the million dollars or Kruger-rand, question. Why would you pay so much money to come and see animals you can see in Kruger?

That was what Elsebie and I were asking to ourselves just before the weekend, as we paid our 570USD over to Bobby tours with a heavy hand. We both have visited most game parks in SA and I have worked in Kruger in my young and stupid days as a student for a year and a bit.

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click-click for big view

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Stunning, majestic, the trees in the Serengeti are like works of art.

In short, this is not Kruger or any other game park in South Africa. It is mind-blowing jaw drop beautiful. There are some big advantages to having less people and camps without fences. Whatever David Attenborough whispered on DSTV about the Serengeti and the migration could not begin to explain the goose bump filled atmosphere while you are standing between thousands of Wildebeest and Zebras. The noise and dust charge the air with energy. Lions with fat big bellies sleep under trees, food is plenty, I swear I could see the smugness on their faces.

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The shifting sands of the Serengeti. This heap of fine black sand move around the planes at slow speed. It's a weird phenomenon, the sand is completely different in colour and texture than the surrounding soil. The locals track the movement of the heap with small sticks in the ground.

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Lunch under a tree. No fences, no rules!

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Hyena laughing all the way to the den

As far as the eye could see there were animals roaming, never had I seen this in Kruger Park. It is a humbling feeling to see so many animals together and on the move. Salum said that was only the start of the migration! There are actually a few migrations throughout the year and this one is just a practice run for them.
In two days, we saw the most breathtakingly scenes the Serengeti could offer and the big five.

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Game viewing vehicle Tanzania style.

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When they say food included, it's not Butcher's Block steak. Spanish omelet, deep fried vienna, and bread. Still beats any Mcdonald's or Spur

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Meat delivery Land Rover. Cold storage?
                                   What cold storage?
                                   Bulk water supply Tanzania

To go back a bit, biggest disappointment was that we could not enter into the park with our bikes. Were also not too keen to spend the ransom money the Tanzania officials thought they deserve to get for their precious park. We would most probably not fly back just to see this. We went along with Harold and Linda seeing they have not been to parks that much and this must be a highlight in anybody’s books.

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Having a mid day siesta under a tree, camp sites have no fences. This field mouse ran around us looking for some cheese, ye high hopes.

Harold and Linda took the time to research all the options for the 4 day safari and after many hours got to Bobby tours in Arusha. The first thing you need to know and to put things into perspective is that the Tanzanian park officials thought it good to try and discourage people from self-drive in the parks. Might be because they want to protect the environment or create jobs for locals or whatever, in the end, it will cost a normal person with his own 4×4 nearly as much or more to visit these parks than if you use an operator like Bobby tours.
For nearly 570USD you get 3 nights 4 days in Serengeti and Ngorongoro crater. It includes all meals and tents and only excludes alcohol, but a bit about that later.

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click-click for big view

We used a Land Cruiser fitted with 4 seats in the back and a pop-up roof which allowed people to stand upright in the car to do game viewing.
I can understand why they do not want people to self-drive, the place is vast and flat. There are no direction boards to show the way to camp sites and look out points. You can self-drive for weeks and see nothing. The guides from the 300 different operators all talk to each other as they go around in the park and direct people to happening spots, which guarantees the visitor sightings of whatever is in the park. Chauffeur driven game drive rarely is this good.  
Before we entered Ngorongoro crater the last day we slept on the rim of the crater in a campsite, which is also not fenced. Elephants, Zebra’s and Hyenas walk through the camp at will.

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Ngorogoro crater camping

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Elephants and other animals share the camp site for a close up feel to nature

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Cool man you say your office overlook the Ben Schoeman Highway in Gauteng, that must be awesome?  :mwink:

Just before dinner, a few Elephants walked into the camp to drink some water from the water tanks. It seems like a regular occurrence as the guides just stood around and laughs at the overseas visitors coming close to the elephants for a photo. I spoke to one of the guides, he said there has never been a visitor killed, and the animals are quite tame! Yes, they thought wild elephants that are used to people are tame. At the same time, one of the older elephants made a mock charge at the visitors and in the blink of an eye, the campsite was empty.

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Ngorogoro at dawn

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Breakfast in front of a hippo pool in Ngorogoro crater. this is what makes Serengeti different to SA parks. This will never happen in SA. Too much rules

It is great still being able to camp like that, but for some reason I do not think this operation is going to last in future. Someone is going to be mowed down or seriously injured from stupidity and not knowing wild animals and the guides also do not educate people about this. It would be sorry if it happens but it is bound to.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-H5kr9gR/0/S/i-H5kr9gR-S.jpg)
Linda showing what prison feeding time must be like  :biggrin:

That night a lone ranger Hyena decided my bags had something that was edible. I woke with the noise of a snorting Hyena and Elsebie trying to wake me up while she played tug-a-war with the beast. Elsebie reluctantly let go when I told her the Hyena would most probably win this fight. He must have had the same ideas as us. He dropped the bag and ran off in to the night.

The next morning before sunset, we took the small dirt pass into Ngorogoro crater. There is one way down into the crater and another steep uphill pass out of the crater. The enclosed ecosystem exists for 100 of years in an area 8km². Small power pack game viewing does not come better than this.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kj6n8KX/0/M/i-kj6n8KX-M.jpg)
On our way back to Arusha, Harold wants his bike back, this cramp limo is not for us.

In four days, we saw the big five and part of a migration in a park not over run with tourist. Better than that, you cannot ask for. If you are a nature lover or wild life narure photographer this is nirvana!  
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Fuzzy Muzzy on February 22, 2012, 11:47:33 pm
When I did Kili I should have taken the Crater tour offered to us.. it looks like it s an amazing experience but like you said. it is not a cheap experience, for bikers travelling through and around Southern Africa budgets get stretched.. 500US is a chunk of change.

Keep it coming.. enjoying it
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 23, 2012, 12:06:35 am
Fuzzy I have asked every traveller we have met on the trip and most skip Serengeti and Masai in Kenya due to cost. About all of them said they would rather come to Kruger as it's loads cheaper and the ablutions and stuff are 1st class.

They lose out big time with the exorbitant prices they charge, where the de hell all those money goes to is anybodies guest, but definitely not back into the parks infrastructure. The toilets and showers are a disgrace and the kitchens...eeeerrrrggg  :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: V-Strom on February 23, 2012, 03:37:18 am
Michnus ek is bly ek het op die Ride Report af gekom......nou het ek iets om na uit te sien as ek nie kan slaap nie.

Shit julle moet dit geniet, ek is nou k@k jaloers. Sien uit na die res.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 23, 2012, 05:05:07 pm
Bliksem we must get onto the new forum software, need to get onto a new page, otherwise like this one it start to get to long and takes too much time to open.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: cloudgazer on February 23, 2012, 05:14:12 pm
jeez the Serengeti looks awesome.
 :thumleft:

I would love to do some game viewing on my bike. Anywhere would be great.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 23, 2012, 06:38:03 pm
jeez the Serengeti looks awesome.
 :thumleft:

I would love to do some game viewing on my bike. Anywhere would be great.

Well I found the place where bikers can still go into proper nature reserves with Lions and other dangerous animals  :mwink:

Getting there  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: wolfman on March 01, 2012, 10:20:54 pm
Cheese guys, you really live your dream... well done. Great report  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: steveindar on March 04, 2012, 08:25:43 am
Are you still in TZ? Shame on you for not letting us know, could have treated you to a few Ndovu's
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: DirtyHarry on March 04, 2012, 09:07:09 am
Very nice RR Michnus, thanks for sharing.
I am getting a little bit confused about the time your trip did take place.
Are you still traveling or is your trip over by now?
Didn't you buy a HP2 just recently?
Title: Simply- Uganda Rocks!! Part1
Post by: michnus on June 07, 2012, 04:41:44 pm
Simply- Uganda Rocks!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PPfMMxb/0/X3/i-PPfMMxb-X3.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4jG84rv/0/XL/i-4jG84rv-XL.jpg)

The road to Uganda through Kenya took us to Suam river border post on the foot of MT Elgon between Kenya and Uganda. It’s a beautiful green area with lots of trees, forest-like. In Kenya the roads towards the border were either full of potholes or very dusty, in bad condition, the surroundings flat and vegetation dry. This lush forest welcomes you as the road descents to the border post at Suam.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8TH3Tjf/0/L/i-8TH3Tjf-L.jpg)
Uganda border Suam river

By now we got used to custom officials utter idiocy and incompetence.  I had to show the friendly customs guy at the Kenya side how to book our Carne de Passage out from Kenya and then the very friendly official at the Uganda site buggered up one page because he stamped it wrong. But, they are a friendly bunch and can be forgiven for not been taught as a customs official what a Carne de Passage entails.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QvRbk9d/0/XL/i-QvRbk9d-XL.jpg)
Double story mud house

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LnDMRsZ/0/XL/i-LnDMRsZ-XL.jpg)
Mount Elgon vistas.

As luck had it Neil and Silvie were also at the border post when we arrived they also wanted to do some of the route we are taking. It was actually nice to have companions that were going to do the type of dirt roads we were hoping Uganda would offer. They are South Africans who worked in the UK for 5 years and were on their way back to SA by road in their big ass Toyota kitted with a huge freezer box. We met them at Jungle Junction in Nairobi when we did the servicing on the bikes. Did I mention they have a freezer in the car … this knowledge made me and Elsebie smile, and hoped that they planned to route through Uganda sort of the same way than us. Trying to get cold beers are a mission and if you come across a freezer with a 4x4 for a few days, you latch on as good as you can.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G8LWbnP/0/XL/i-G8LWbnP-XL.jpg)
Neil and Silvi's big ass 4x4 in front of the official Customs building at the border post

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Kngk2bs/0/XL/i-Kngk2bs-XL.jpg)
Sipi falls Mount Elgon

Our first night in Uganda was spent in the small border town at the park facilities where it turned out cheaper to rent a bed for about R30 than to camp.  Cold showers and pitted toilets are familiar to us by now. Toilets was a strange affair in Uganda. This was our ablutions at the local community camp site.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LZ6zRcP/0/S/i-LZ6zRcP-S.jpg)
How do you squad on this toilet?

Before I carry on, I need to mention that it was election time in Uganda. Everywhere were posters, literary on almost every flat surface available obviously no bi-laws regulations in action. Speaker-equipped vehicles promoted their choice of candidates loudly and followers rocked up in bright yellow t-shirts and their Sunday’ best for the voting. All of this actually added to a wonderful visit for us – tourists were less and roads on election days quieter. Local food are quite good and tasty and you can have a decent meal at a local dive for around R40 which will feed two easily.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-c25LHtN/0/XL/i-c25LHtN-XL.jpg)
Local restaurant..........and......

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-F56wfpr/0/XL/i-F56wfpr-XL.jpg)
.........the kitchen!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-j72PVRm/0/M/i-j72PVRm-M.jpg)
Voting in Uganda

We headed out to Sipi Falls the next day and from there towards Murchison’ Falls. For us it turned into an unusual experience – our first national park where we were ALLOWED to enter with our motorbikes.  Game viewing on bikes is a strange experience, coming up close to elephants, buffalo and Lion makes your mind race and keeps your hand not too far from the throttle …

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2s8HvMD/0/M/i-2s8HvMD-M.jpg)
Nothing like a Mirinda on a hot day, but beers is better

On our way to the park Elsebie’s bike decided to call it quits and stop. It’s bloody hot in the sun and while getting the entire luggage off the bike I remembered Johan a good friend and Dakar aficionado mentioning a while ago to me if the bike stops for no reason check the fuel pump first. Apparently whoever supplied the fuel pumps to this model bike wanted to make up some cost and the wire supplying the power was a mm or two to short so eventually it just vibrates off. It was still attached by the plastic insulation on first inspection the wire still looks in good shape just have to wiggle it and it just comes off.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nqBLhx4/0/M/i-nqBLhx4-M.jpg)
Where's the matches honey, I want to burn a Beemer?

The roads in the park closer to the river areas were quite sandy and both Elsebie and I had our share of falls and ‘bush bashing’!  All good and fun but tiring and thirsty work, luckily we found a beer or two and some local company before we took the ferry back to the camping site.  We camped on the banks of the river only to realise later that evening while taking a wash in the river there’s hippos in a pool just 50 meters up from us. We chatted till late that evening having the freedom to ride around in game parks and enjoying a country where you can get up close and personal with animals. The camps in the parks also do not have fences and baboons and hyenas stroll through the camp at night.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tx6xZ8g/0/M/i-tx6xZ8g-M.jpg)
Heeeere kitty kitty!!
The best way to watch game is by standing


There's lions and leopard in the park, I had a leopard run out infront of the bike but no luck scaring lions with our bikes.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XjBXmt2/0/L/i-XjBXmt2-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGdnwmh/0/M/i-BGdnwmh-M.jpg)
How it is suppose to be, sort out your own way around the park

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bmRLww6/0/M/i-bmRLww6-M.jpg)
Biiiltong!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fch8jmp/0/M/i-fch8jmp-M.jpg)
Just love it!!

We tried to stay clear of the animals because of our loud exhaust on the bikes, we also tried to keep the rev's low. It eventually turned out they were not in the least worried or scared by our bikes or the noise.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jmV9s9Q/0/M/i-jmV9s9Q-M.jpg)
Hippo tracking

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jmNmBwL/0/M/i-jmNmBwL-M.jpg)
Beer for lunch in the delta and its ice cold!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fkSS9VH/0/M/i-fkSS9VH-M.jpg)
Yes I know I was looking for the Rare yellow speckled bearded Cape flying Squirrel when this donkey came pass.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2kF852c/0/L/i-2kF852c-L.jpg)
More biltong, there's no better feeling being this close to Buffalo and viewing them from the bike!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rBJ67HN/0/L/i-rBJ67HN-L.jpg)
Came back from buying some beers before we head back on the ferry to find this lot tearing up the trees
Before we got on the ferry back to Murchinson falls,we had plenty of time chatting to some locals. They are all impress with these huuuge bikes. And this guy could not help himself, he had to try it. In the end he rode the bike onto the ferry with great flair and cheers from the others, I have yet to see a man with a bigger grin on his face.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-stdgfq5/0/M/i-stdgfq5-M.jpg)
Charlie and Ewan wanabee

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5dDK8Tp/0/M/i-5dDK8Tp-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Jm79jsG/0/M/i-Jm79jsG-M.jpg)
Uganda is a dirty dusty place, but we love it.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hXSgz2D/0/M/i-hXSgz2D-M.jpg)
Dusty ZA boobs!

Our camp just above Murchisons falls, it was suppose to be a camp site but I doubt it has seen a camper for the last couple of years.This is what makes Uganda such a stunning destination for overlanders, you can camp nearly everywhere without listening to your next door neighbour farting and beating his wife as in some SA site.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cTwHNdR/0/M/i-cTwHNdR-M.jpg)
Wild camping at Murchisons falls. We had to trek a laager, hippo hole about 100 meters up river

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-d7QGBFK/0/M/i-d7QGBFK-M.jpg)
Murchsinson's falls quite an impressive place

In a small town called Masindi we stayed over before heading South to Fort Portal. The local hotel is a real treat, the look and feel is proper colonial style with waiters in black trousers and white shirts and white gloves galore. For around 4USD p/p we could use their lapa to sleep and the food in the restaurant was cheaper than we could do ourselfs.

The weird thing at this pace was the statues they had under the veranda. Why it was done like this and if the artist had a fettish for toursist only he would know.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-b5Sp7M2/0/M/i-b5Sp7M2-M.jpg)
Masindi camping

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tMp4Qgq/0/L/i-tMp4Qgq-L.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SJMQRSN/0/M/i-SJMQRSN-M.jpg)
Explain this?
The size is about right, except it's a midget size statue.

will continue part 2
Title: Simply- Uganda Rocks!! part1
Post by: 1ougat on June 07, 2012, 04:54:15 pm
sub
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kerritz on June 07, 2012, 05:40:04 pm
Het jou lank genoeg gevat vir 'n nuwe update!! Goeie werk!!  :thumleft:

Lyk bevange en ongerep daar.....wel....soort van.  :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on June 08, 2012, 09:19:24 am
sorry man, die lekker stukke kom nou  :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on June 08, 2012, 09:57:30 am
Awesome. Het gewonder wanneer kry ons weer bietjie leesstof! :thumleft:
Title: Simply- Uganda Rocks!! Part2
Post by: michnus on June 08, 2012, 01:32:57 pm
Part2....
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CMTWRw3/0/M/i-CMTWRw3-M.jpg)
From Misindi to Bwindi

Our next destination was Fort Portal, a small town situated South West close to the Congo border. Now, Niel and Silvie are bird watchers and very serious about it – they really tried to draw us in but for us, all is better on two wheels and chicken is the only birds we check out when ready for a meal!  We set out without our ‘back-up’ for a few days to visit with our new Dutch friends in Port Fortal.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CPTDZHD/0/M/i-CPTDZHD-M.jpg)
Bush mechanic extraordinaire

We were on the gravel for 10kilometers and Elsebie’s bike again stuck its head between its legs like a stubborn mule. Again same story, the electric wire giving power to the petrol pump vibrated off, this time I cut the power outlet wires and extended it. We knew the drill and it only took us 20min or so to get going again.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fhNPpG9/0/S/i-fhNPpGS.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gQmcMmb/0/S/i-gQmcMmb-S.jpg)
Proud owner of this 125cc taxi, pimping my ride Uganda style

These guys needs special mentioning. There's thousands of these Pikipiki's running around as taxi's. Not long distance but between towns and mostly on dirt roads. The one remarkable thing about it, they carry easliy 2 to 3 passangers and the rider sits on the tank to make space for the passenger and luggage. They ride on dirt roads with these loads where most South African die hard dual purpose owners will think twice of going. They do not have knobby tyres or such luxuries, only normal road tyres.
There's Pikipiki repair shops in every small town and parts shops are like cell phone outlets, littered everywhere.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5XRcMPX/0/M/i-5XRcMPX-M.jpg)
Trading in the Dakars for better reliable transport. Se moer kan ek Afrika op n 125cc doen.

 (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bwdZcrX/0/M/i-bwdZcrX-M.jpg)
Blou bul se moer!
The road toward Port Fortal is all gravel, grated into a rounded heap over the years.  To make a long story short – here is a picture of Elsebie’ bike with newly fitted, local indicators …

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fFcjZRg/0/M/i-fFcjZRg-M.jpg)
New 2011 Dakar

Most of Uganda’s 29milj people live close or next to the roads and like Murphy would have it a pedestrian decided to step into the road as Elsebie passed him, in her efforts to avoid hitting him she had to swerve quite aggressively and ended up face flat on the gravel and the bike slid up against an embankment. When I got there it got to riot stage as some of the locals started fighting and screaming with each other and two clever sirs wanted to know what's the procedure from here as it’s a crime scene now and we must wait for the police.

I just told Elsebie to get on her bike and go, luckily the bike was still ride-able except no front brake as the bolt came loose and dropped all the brake fluid on the ground. Crime scene my ass, since when having an accident all by yourself becomes a crime scene? Why they fought amongst each other must have been because the man she tried to avoid was nowhere to be seen, took his bicycle and run.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8F3XC26/0/S/i-8F3XC26-S.jpg)
Not to much damage, luckily, most just cosmetic and the headlight unit was bend

We rode the last 50km into Fort Portal with the limping bike. Martijn helped me repairing the worst of the stuff. Getting the front brake to work again. We bought new stylish indicators form a local shop for R30 for two! The headlight had to be bend back into shape.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jxVQbM8/0/S/i-jxVQbM8-S.jpg)
Fixing bikes..............again

I must add besides that altercation the Ugandan people are the friendlies warm hearted people from all the countries we have visited so far. Since we rode into Suam River the kids and older people go off their heads when they hear the bikes past. They love it they wave and scream while running next to us. When we stop everybody wants to know from where and to where. It’s different with Ugandan people, it’s no zoo effect for them as in the other countries they speak English very well and ask clever informative questions.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nmr5vDr/0/M/i-nmr5vDr-M.jpg)
School is out, bright colours make up most of the schools attire.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tpWbGHr/0/M/i-tpWbGHr-M.gif)
might take a sec to load

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wTQ7B5N/0/M/i-wTQ7B5N-M.jpg)
Overlanders Uganda party 2011 it ended with lots of not so clear heads

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rkWFswN/0/M/i-rkWFswN-M.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jnxQWZH/0/S/i-jnxQWZH-S.jpg)
Having a relaxing few days in Fort Portal, babana pap with goatmeat taste as funny as it sounds

cont...
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kerritz on June 08, 2012, 01:44:07 pm
Gelukkige Bliksem!!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Avontier on June 08, 2012, 02:15:20 pm
Michnus, watter agter-tyre verkies jy vir hierdie trips?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on June 08, 2012, 02:17:27 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FzC36hk/0/S/i-FzC36hk-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4JRDtTN/0/S/i-4JRDtTN-S.jpg)
Hanging around for a few days at one place allows us to really take in the local vibe. You get to talk with the locals where we buy our beers everyday. The old grocer who sells us our eggs and bread every morning greet us with a huge grin everyday.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NWQdPGw/0/S/i-NWQdPGw-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZSpc2Jq/0/S/i-ZSpc2Jq-S.jpg)
False advertising?! yes they lie the fuckers, this stuff is like petrol!
Stay out of big African cities, the small ones are the better choices you get to meet the real locals in these towns.

Port Fortal is a charming little African town.  We ended up stay for 5 nights, enjoying the local cuisine and drinking spots.  We found beef fillet for less than R50 a kilogram, beers at about R3 and a camping spot walking distance from town.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-C33zpPt/0/M/i-C33zpPt-M.jpg)
Many of these shops in small towns

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vjR5gTd/0/M/i-vjR5gTd-M.jpg)
There's the odd Custom bike build off specialist. Using sheet metal cut off's
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-88LDKpr/0/M/i-88LDKpr-M.jpg)
This one runs a BSA engine, hell knows from where, what year or cc's,the welding on the bike was scary stuff
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tC2Hndg/0/M/i-tC2Hndg-M.jpg)
Vespa's, Chinese bikes, British bike's they work e'm all
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on June 08, 2012, 02:42:20 pm
Michnus, watter agter-tyre verkies jy vir hierdie trips?

Die belangrikste ding is om myle te kan kry, om tyres daar te koop is onmoontlik en baue duur. Die Heidie's doen alles redelik goed wat dit aan betref.

Die Heidie's het baie goed gedoen, jy sal sien op die Turkana stuk het ons amper 600km vulkaniese rots gery en hulle het regtig baie goed gedoen. Modder, sand, teer, hulle is n goeie kombinasie vir so n toer.

Met dit moet ek jou se, ek sal nie weer die voorband gebruik nie. Die karkas is baie sag en word van iets gemaak wat nie "rippstop" is nie. Ons het die Tubliss voor gebruik, wonderlike ding!

Maar as ek hom plug, en dis n 5mm gat, nie paar kilometer nie dan skeur die gat oop. Ek het in Addis, Mitas bande op gesit.
Tot in Egipte het ons al 9 inpak punctures gehad net voor. Die Tubliss werk soos n bom, maar die Heidie's se karkas het ons in die steek gelaat.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8sH6Kj5/0/S/i-8sH6Kj5-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-57RrPMt/0/S/i-57RrPMt-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JGFFDtb/0/S/i-JGFFDtb-S.jpg)
Al 3 was omtrent 5mm gate toe ons die puncture gekry het.

The other problem we got from the Heidie's was in Sudan, heat was up in the 50's everyday, all though I pumped the tyres hard my rear delaminted from the heat. Still had half the grip left when I had to borrow a Anakee off an abandoned bike.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: I&horse on June 08, 2012, 02:55:25 pm
Het nooit geweet hoe populer Gin in Afrika is tot ek n job vir Distel in Dar gaan doen het nie, hulle kan nie voorbly nie. In die SA Townships verkoop dit ook BAIE beter as Whiskey of Brannewyn.

Bright and Clear in the mornings my ass!!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Avontier on June 08, 2012, 03:22:17 pm
Michnus, watter agter-tyre verkies jy vir hierdie trips?

Die belangrikste ding is om myle te kan kry, om tyres daar te koop is onmoontlik en baue duur. Die Heidie's doen alles redelik goed wat dit aan betref.

Die Heidie's het baie goed gedoen, jy sal sien op die Turkana stuk het ons amper 600km vulkaniese rots gery en hulle het regtig baie goed gedoen. Modder, sand, teer, hulle is n goeie kombinasie vir so n toer.

Met dit moet ek jou se, ek sal nie weer die voorband gebruik nie. Die karkas is baie sag en word van iets gemaak wat nie "rippstop" is nie. Ons het die Tubliss voor gebruik, wonderlike ding!

Maar as ek hom plug, en dis n 5mm gat, nie paar kilometer nie dan skeur die gat oop. Ek het in Addis, Mitas bande op gesit.
Tot in Egipte het ons al 9 inpak punctures gehad net voor. Die Tubliss werk soos n bom, maar die Heidie's se karkas het ons in die steek gelaat.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8sH6Kj5/0/S/i-8sH6Kj5-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-57RrPMt/0/S/i-57RrPMt-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JGFFDtb/0/S/i-JGFFDtb-S.jpg)
Al 3 was omtrent 5mm gate toe ons die puncture gekry het.

The other problem we got from the Heidie's was in Sudan, heat was up in the 50's everyday, all though I pumped the tyres hard my rear delaminted from the heat. Still had half the grip left when I had to borrow a Anakee off an abandoned bike.

Bliksem. Dit lyk nie vars nie. Wat sal jy voor opsit? TKC? Hoe is die Mefo Super Explorer? Lyk maar baie soos die Heidi?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on June 08, 2012, 03:29:14 pm
KTMjedi het my vertel die Mitas se karkas het kevlar of een of ander materiaal in wat hom sterker maak. Gebruiks gewys dink ek die Mitas en TKC is maar baie dieselfde, wat vir my belangrik is hoe sterk die tyre is, en die Heidie voorband imho is nie upto die job nie.

Ek kan nog nie se hoe die Mitas gaan doen wat myle aan beterf nie, maar die 2500km wqat ons gedoen het en sand in Sudan het hulle lekker gewerk.
Title: Simply-Uganda rocks!! part2 continue
Post by: michnus on June 08, 2012, 03:57:23 pm
cont............
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WnN7TCd/0/M/i-WnN7TCd-M.jpg)
Loads of hotels in Uganda, not the best but the names make up for lack off luxuries

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WGXHM3k/0/S/i-WGXHM3k-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HJG5ZPn/0/S/i-HJG5ZPn-S.jpg)
Self drive banana cycle                                                                      Older model push banana cycle
Ugandans got a real "can do" attitude, nobody wait for the goverment or others to help them

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Px46FLT/0/S/i-Px46FLT-S.jpg)   (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dqm6VPB/0/S/i-dqm6VPB-S.jpg)
      Real wood rapped in cloth, cost around 20usd all one size                              Ugandans are hardworking people and use    
                                                                                                                                        whatever they can to manufature products.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BPmk3K8/0/S/i-BPmk3K8-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9z9CkND/0/S/i-9z9CkND-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-chv442t/0/S/i-chv442t-S.jpg)
The two Dutchie's with their new fire place, cheap cheap, R10

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mxxwJPz/0/M/i-mxxwJPz-M.jpg)
Uganda Croc's this is where Alibaba got his shoes
Time to leave for Bwindi forrest..............
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: 2StrokeDan on June 10, 2012, 09:54:09 pm
I am enjoying this report a lot!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: cloudgazer on June 11, 2012, 10:45:36 am
I am enjoying this report a lot!

jeez, whats not to enjoy.
a dream trip this is.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Probie on June 13, 2012, 07:58:54 pm
Gooi Mielies!! Kan nie wag vir die res nie! Excellent RR :thumleft:
Title: Uganda going to Bwindi forest
Post by: michnus on July 02, 2012, 12:14:24 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NTDRK68/0/L/i-NTDRK68-L.jpg)

halfway! And travelling just above the speed of sound  (http://www.castor2.ca/16_Calc/03_Rotation/index.html)

Although we were allowed in the parks with our bikes, we found it too expensive to overdo.  At $120 per visit for the two of us on bikes it can become a bit hectic, especially if this excludes all other expenses in the park like ferries, camping and guided tours.  Again – we fail to see where all this money is going!  Campsites and lodges are mostly run privately, roads are not maintained and facilities run down.  We did however found quite a few roads that borders or crosses the parks.  This made for some interesting riding.

Gorilla trekking is for the rich American and European travellers.  $500 per person to trek is not cheap and then you still need to pay for park fees and very expensive accommodation.  Visitor stats show that most of the trekkers are from the USA and UK. In 2009 11000 people did the Gorilla walk, you can do the maths on that excluding all the other money they earn.  We hoped to get the gorilla experience the ‘cheaper’ way and ended up staying at the Bwindi Forest, Buhomo Community Lodge for three days in the hope that the gorillas would visit the border of the park.  No luck, but we stayed in a ‘tent’ lodge with an amazing forest view, visited with the locals over Nile beer and learned more about how the community supported themselves and the school.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CMTWRw3/0/M/i-CMTWRw3-M.jpg)

On our way to Bwindi the road we wanted to take on T4A showed on the GPS bad roads do not drive. In the end it was one of the best decisions we took to go that route. They are really scenic and traverse through the most beautiful hills and forest and small villages we have ever seen. Most of the dirt roads and in bad shape but do-able at slow speed, in fact it is possible to circumnavigate Uganda and never see a tar road.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MttgPNs/0/M/i-MttgPNs-M.jpg)
Mountain and more mountains near the Congo border. The thousand year old volcanoes offer stunning views

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Bt3B6N2/0/M/i-Bt3B6N2-M.jpg)
Before descending into antoher river crossing, the roads were really bad. It's muddy red soil when dry allows good traction on the switch backs and steep descent

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BsCtWFV/0/M/i-BsCtWFV-M.jpg)
Roads to Bwindi snake through some stunning forest roads, it was some of the best days riding in a long time.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KQRxB29/0/M/i-KQRxB29-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BB8cBtV/0/M/i-BB8cBtV-M.jpg)
I am all for a beautiful landscape but fuck USAid if they want the place to look like the Queen of England's front yard. It's typically what happens all over Africa. USAid spend their money on their NGO's and their suppliers to give the impression they are the savours of Africa

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9v35Z3B/0/M/i-9v35Z3B-M.jpg)
Small villages every where along the road. All of them plant tea or some crops for themselves.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xtv5rDf/0/M/i-xtv5rDf-M.jpg)
The road going up to the Gorrilla gate at Bwindi forrest

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Zc9G9xk/0/M/i-Zc9G9xk-M.jpg)
Had a great time with some locals at the a bar while waiting for the damn gorillas.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-397MW25/0/M/i-397MW25-M.jpg)
Tented camp at Bwindi forest. The gorillas did not want to grace us with their presence. Why tent when you can have a nice view and tent like this with dinner and breakfast included for backbackers rate?

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RsLSKsq/0/M/i-RsLSKsq-M.jpg)
Local artist did the painting for me on the nose

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XnPqJ2z/0/M/i-XnPqJ2z-M.jpg)
Tourist stuff is their sole means of income. They still earn enough to make a living.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-c4nGN6k/0/M/i-c4nGN6k-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hCVBDNx/0/M/i-hCVBDNx-M.jpg)
You are allowed to walk around some of the park areas, if the gorrilas are there at the time lucky for you. We did not see any the we were there, but walking around the forest is really special. The bird life and flora is just spectacular.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-s9rdVvF/0/S/i-s9rdVvF-S.jpg)
Neil and Silvi, "our freezer" doing the philanthropic thing and donating binoculars to all the guides.

All in hind sight, maybe we must have docked up the money and go walk with the rangers to see the Gorillas. It is not like you get there every day and seeing a near 1.5ton Silverback mere meters away must be unequalled experience.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 02, 2012, 04:53:13 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BQvRcfL/0/L/i-BQvRcfL-L.jpg)
Impossible to try and capture the beauty of Uganda and the views. Taking some time enjoying the surroundings, possible to see the Congo border.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5MCNJwt/1/M/i-5MCNJwt-M.jpg)
Stunning roads leading through South part of Uganda, helmet just sticking out.


The riding from Bwindi forest to Lake Bungonia was one of the most relaxing enjoyable experiences I ever had on a bike. It feels like we are entering a Jurassic park world with the super size trees and ferns.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PcVPPdS/0/M/i-PcVPPdS-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4wtR2gg/0/M/i-4wtR2gg-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zC4wDq5/1/M/i-zC4wDq5-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G9xgN5N/1/L/i-G9xgN5N-L.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G9xgN5N/1/X3/i-G9xgN5N-X3.jpg)
Lake Bunyonyi is a stunning lake nestled between the mountains and hills surround it. It is as close to a hobbit fairly land you can come. The bigger size opens in a new tab

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sL3Fg4h/1/M/i-sL3Fg4h-M.jpg)
Overlanders campsite next to the lake.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NTcccMp/0/M/i-NTcccMp-M.jpg)
Our campsite for a few days

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mVMXsSc/1/M/i-mVMXsSc-M.jpg)
Intensive subsistence farming around the lake has changed the land scape into this

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LVvn3xH/0/M/i-LVvn3xH-M.jpg)
No it's not. They sure prune trees a different way in Uganda  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: 2StrokeDan on July 08, 2012, 08:08:35 pm
beauty before your eyes you can clearly see. It is an amazing landscape, and to ride those roads on a motorcycle can only be very special.
I would simply photoshop a Gorilla into one of your photos. Important to get the scale right though :imaposer:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Madala on July 08, 2012, 08:23:53 pm
Great trip Michnus! Julle is inspirerend :thumleft: Lekker om julle trip te volg. Dankie
Title: lake Victoria Uganda
Post by: michnus on July 09, 2012, 02:31:19 pm
 

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QBpzVx9/1/L/i-QBpzVx9-L.jpg)



(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zxHQgQ4/0/L/i-zxHQgQ4-L.jpg)

Time to leave lake Benoni, sorry, lake Bunyonyi. We wanted to get to Sssese Islands in lake Victoria for some island living. It's rural riding all the way. As usual we got away late and had to find a place to sleep near Mburo game park. And with standard practice the privately run lodges are situated inside the national parks. We ended up at the gate of Mburo just to be told to pay again for entry. Well, no, how about we just camp here at your gate?! Not at all came the answer. After a bit of debating and persuasion from us the second gate keeper allowed us to set up camp behind his house.


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BSqPXsF/0/M/i-BSqPXsF-M.jpg)
Wild camping next to a lake on our way to Lake Victoria

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Rm6HkR7/0/M/i-Rm6HkR7-M.jpg)
Most beautiful sunsets

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qQrdcr7/1/S/i-qQrdcr7-S.jpg)
Most of the roads are dusty, the rainy season started and the roads suddenly turn into mud monsters.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ndwMRMC/1/M/i-ndwMRMC-M.jpg)
Life is on a slow cruise

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KhpvHRL/1/M/i-KhpvHRL-M.jpg)
Puncture repairs is often, the dirt roads used by all and Donkey-cards shed all kids nails and parts


Wild camping is fun! And in a place like Uganda it is even better. Many of the main roads run through games parks and it's easy to just park off the road for a night.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-F9WMRWn/1/M/i-F9WMRWn-M.jpg)
Uganda is the BEST country for riding bike and viewing game.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 09, 2012, 02:41:18 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GDTzpZ8/0/M/i-GDTzpZ8-M.jpg)
Show a kid a camera and you will have loads of fun, laughter and smiles


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8q7SJh8/0/L/i-8q7SJh8-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VrfTTmp/0/M/i-VrfTTmp-M.jpg)
Waiting for our ferry to Sssese Islands we were entertained by the local bike taxi riders.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-c8rPjJd/0/M/i-c8rPjJd-M.jpg)
European fashion got nothing on them. This is how they roll

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nr7wQ6k/1/M/i-nr7wQ6k-M.jpg)
Lunch, eggs and some bloody tough hard oily koekies

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zGcQtFS/1/M/i-zGcQtFS-M.jpg)
But local honey at R5 a bottle makes everything good. Branded foods like KFC and McDonalds on such a trip are just plain wrong, luckily there's none.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hvfjj7X/0/M/i-hvfjj7X-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fkd78NK/0/M/i-fkd78NK-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Xd69xJg/0/M/i-Xd69xJg-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kerritz on July 09, 2012, 02:43:29 pm
Eendag as ons groot is........goeie werk Michnus!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 09, 2012, 02:50:46 pm
The one engine on the ferry broke and they had to replace it. In German timing a new engine arrived and two hours later we were on our way. The ferry is for free and runs every two hours. And then we got the lake flies every where. They are indeed small and gets into your nose, eyes, mouth everywhere they can get a place to sit.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-j5ZjX9r/1/M/i-j5ZjX9r-M.jpg)
That entire yellow engine propeller system get replaced with in 2 hours

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Qr5zmgd/1/M/i-Qr5zmgd-M.jpg)
School bus? What do you mean school bus,this is a school bus, we can fit many more kids

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jZRqkvW/1/M/i-jZRqkvW-M.jpg)
The entire parking area for the ferry is hard packed soil, the goats obviously find small rocks softer
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 09, 2012, 03:11:33 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-362zznv/0/M/i-362zznv-M.jpg)
Ninja!!
Lake Victoria also have the pesky little lake flies. They are really small and with high humidity, every breath scores you a mouthful and a choked up throat .


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VBBwNCb/0/M/i-VBBwNCb-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HRcGQZL/0/M/i-HRcGQZL-M.jpg)
Packed in like Sardines.

Ssesse Island is a small island group just South of Kampala and comprises 80 odd islands. It’s was a natural forest years ago but now people cut down everything to plant olive palms for oil. As with most other forest in these countries these forests will be gone in 10 or 15 years from now. The lodges are not as hip as the Malawi lodges but they do offer dirt cheap accommodation and great food. We were alone in the lodge because of the elections. For some reason everybody and tourist expected the worst to happen.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nG2SwQg/1/M/i-nG2SwQg-M.jpg)
Pulling the plug from Lake Victoria.
One morning we saw this man trying to pull out the plug from lake Victoria, we proceeded beating him senseless just to figure out later he was trying to pull in his catch. Well that’s that for trying to be a good tourist.


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-c4pJ3Wr/0/M/i-c4pJ3Wr-M.jpg)
Clean beaches luke warm water and plenty of beers, life is good!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VxBHjwP/1/M/i-VxBHjwP-M.jpg)
Lodge on Ssese island, cheaper to rent a room than camp. And get damn hot water to wash with. The yellow containers got delivered late afternoon and is piping hot it stays like that till late night when we use smaller buckets to showers with

The entire way around Uganda the towns offer the same services to the community. Welding works manufacturing doors and window frames, and not light weight stuff, heavy crime proof articles. Coffins, repair shops for Pikipiki’s and loads of small restaurants offering anything from fried chips to Matoke, bananas cooked like porridge. There’s a world of difference between SA people and Ugandans, they make things happen, buy pikipiki’s to taxi people and belongings, cultivate every piece of land they can get their hands on, and even on slopes where it is so steep a goat will break a sweat over the eyebrows. In Transkei for example people have livestock, goats and cattle and do not plant anymore, that leaves hectares of soil erosion and people that wait for money from the employed that send money home for food. Here, it works the other way round, not much cattle most people farm on small scale.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 09, 2012, 05:51:45 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3V7ps38/0/M/i-3V7ps38-M.jpg)
How lucky can one get, watching rugby on an old tv and they have DSTV.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9NMppgg/0/S/i-9NMppgg-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-66jXHrh/0/M/i-66jXHrh-M.jpg)
This thing, is proudly displayed in their bar. Obviously their taxidermist skills are not on the level what we have in SA

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-W8stfzR/0/M/i-W8stfzR-M.jpg)
Robinson Crusoe type living next to the lake

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bF2kPhT/0/M/i-bF2kPhT-M.jpg)
Braai is now an international word the same as vooertsek!

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: funacide on July 09, 2012, 10:33:42 pm
Damn, I am really enjoying reading this, one day when I am big I will do such a trip (need to make some real money first  :biggrin:)

Only one problem with your report, is too many pictures of your ugly mug  >:D >:D >:D >:D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 09, 2012, 10:42:00 pm
This better?  :lol8:
You will notice these girls drink beer with straws.  :eek7:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cWQNgpq/0/M/i-cWQNgpq-M.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HGTCzV4/0/M/i-HGTCzV4-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: funacide on July 09, 2012, 11:29:26 pm
You will notice these girls drink beer with straws.  :eek7:

I am sure you liked that  ::) ::)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Dik Geluk on July 10, 2012, 06:21:28 am
Can't agree more on your statement about USAid. I don't think they know what excactly they are doing.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Masai on July 10, 2012, 08:34:44 am
Hallo Michnus

Ok ... dalk het ek nou jou naam verkeerd gespel  :)

Geniet jou trip report  ... dankie. Ek en vriendin toer nogals gereeld. Sy haat sand ry en weier normaalweg as dit begin dik sand raak. Haar laaste val was in die kamp terrein by Nata Lodge  :imaposer: Eers by Kasane vir die eerste keer weer met my gepraat .... Die pad Fat Monkey toe .... is dit dik sand? Wil end van die jaar 'n Zim trip doen en dan by Monkey Bay draai.

Dankie
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 10, 2012, 09:14:26 am
You will notice these girls drink beer with straws.  :eek7:

I am sure you liked that  ::) ::)

It is the darndest thing, in this small little town in Ethiopia, called Gondor, we had dinner in a more upmarket establishment and it also seemed to be the hangout place of the their hip youngsters.

There's only two options for beer in Ethiopia and none of the girly drinks we have on offer in SA. They obviously have seen the trend and drink straight from a bottle is not girl like so they use straws.

Really a nice bunch of people

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 10, 2012, 09:17:20 am
Can't agree more on your statement about USAid. I don't think they know what excactly they are doing.

Look, I might be completely wrong with this, but that was the general perception we got as we traveled North and not just us also European travelers coming South had the same opinions about it.

I will post more on that when we I post about Ethiopia.  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 10, 2012, 09:19:30 am
Hallo Michnus

Ok ... dalk het ek nou jou naam verkeerd gespel  :)

Geniet jou trip report  ... dankie. Ek en vriendin toer nogals gereeld. Sy haat sand ry en weier normaalweg as dit begin dik sand raak. Haar laaste val was in die kamp terrein by Nata Lodge  :imaposer: Eers by Kasane vir die eerste keer weer met my gepraat .... Die pad Fat Monkey toe .... is dit dik sand? Wil end van die jaar 'n Zim trip doen en dan by Monkey Bay draai.

Dankie

Nee wat Fat Monkeys pad is goed harde grond en n moerse lekker ry, dink dit was so amper 50km vanaf die afdraai, mag dalk minder wees.
Malawi en Fat Monkeys is n moet doen en baie hoog op enige iemand se lys van naby lande.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Dik Geluk on July 10, 2012, 10:06:21 am
Hallo Michnus

Ok ... dalk het ek nou jou naam verkeerd gespel  :)

Geniet jou trip report  ... dankie. Ek en vriendin toer nogals gereeld. Sy haat sand ry en weier normaalweg as dit begin dik sand raak. Haar laaste val was in die kamp terrein by Nata Lodge  :imaposer: Eers by Kasane vir die eerste keer weer met my gepraat .... Die pad Fat Monkey toe .... is dit dik sand? Wil end van die jaar 'n Zim trip doen en dan by Monkey Bay draai.

Dankie
Was onlangs by Fat Monkeys, baie lekker. Naby is ook Eagles Nest met baie mooi campsite naby meer.
Nee wat Fat Monkeys pad is goed harde grond en n moerse lekker ry, dink dit was so amper 50km vanaf die afdraai, mag dalk minder wees.
Malawi en Fat Monkeys is n moet doen en baie hoog op enige iemand se lys van naby lande.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: >Herman< on July 10, 2012, 11:39:21 am
You will notice these girls drink beer with straws.  :eek7:

I am sure you liked that  ::) ::)

Fun, what do you mean  ::) ::) ? WTF??? Only primary school girls use the ::) icon, not real men. You are a disgrace for the KTM MAN GANG. Swifty will moer you.  :patch:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Masai on July 10, 2012, 02:04:15 pm
Ah ... dankie ... dink die trip deur Zim Malawi toe kan lekker wees. Ons het in Desember 2010 deur die Caprivi gery. Ook met 2 Dakars ..... en vermoed vandag die 2 Dakars wat van voor gekom het kon dalk julle gewees het  ;D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 10, 2012, 02:43:14 pm
Ah ... dankie ... dink die trip deur Zim Malawi toe kan lekker wees. Ons het in Desember 2010 deur die Caprivi gery. Ook met 2 Dakars ..... en vermoed vandag die 2 Dakars wat van voor gekom het kon dalk julle gewees het  ;D

moes gewees het, ons het gestop, gehoop julle sou ook, maar julle het nogal haastig gelyk  :biggrin:

btw waar ons getsop het, toevallig amper op een van die grootste verkleur mannetjies getrap wat ek nog in my lewe gesien het.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Masai on July 10, 2012, 03:18:12 pm
 :-[   Ja .... ons moes gestop het ......nes 'n tv lisensie ... die regte ding om te doen ... maar aan die ander kant ... jou ma moes jou seker al gewaarsku het teen maats. My naam is Maats.
Ons was oop ketel Ngepi toe deur daai lang Caprivi stretch om voor donker daar aan te kom. Donker ry daarbo is soos 'n Arrive Alive plakker op 'n lykswa  ....Skuld jou dus 'n Zambezi  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 10, 2012, 03:33:08 pm
:-[   Ja .... ons moes gestop het ......nes 'n tv lisensie ... die regte ding om te doen ... maar aan die ander kant ... jou ma moes jou seker al gewaarsku het teen maats. My naam is Maats.
Ons was oop ketel Ngepi toe deur daai lang Caprivi stretch om voor donker daar aan te kom. Donker ry daarbo is soos 'n Arrive Alive plakker op 'n lykswa  ....Skuld jou dus 'n Zambezi  :thumleft:

next time  :thumleft:

hou aan volg op die thread jy sal sien wat gebeur van in die aand ry  :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: X Banana Boy on July 10, 2012, 04:38:18 pm
Very cool.  Keep it coming.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Mzee on July 10, 2012, 05:16:37 pm
Michnus,  how did I miss all this good stuff?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Brakenjan on July 10, 2012, 06:13:48 pm
Michnus,  how did I miss all this good stuff?

Ja bliksem, ek ook!!!  :eek7:

Dankie Mich - ek geniet dit terdee en het nou lekker gelag vir die wetter wat dit durf om die meer se prop te probeer uittrek!  :spitcoffee:   :lol8:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 11, 2012, 12:06:14 pm
Michnus,  how did I miss all this good stuff?

Ja bliksem, ek ook!!!  :eek7:

Dankie Mich - ek geniet dit terdee en het nou lekker gelag vir die wetter wat dit durf om die meer se prop te probeer uittrek!  :spitcoffee:   :lol8:

I still feel sorry for the guy to this day  :lol8:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Masai on July 13, 2012, 10:55:43 am
Hallo Michnus tell me how you doing?

Wonder wanneer laai jy weer vir ons prentjies
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 13, 2012, 11:11:33 am
Sal vandag, die lekker Turkana stuk kom nou.  :mwink: :ricky:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Draad on July 14, 2012, 02:32:27 am
What a trip and RR ... keep it coming !!! :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: jorust on July 14, 2012, 10:03:28 am
+1
Lekker!!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on July 14, 2012, 07:09:10 pm
Oos Afrika le na aan my Hart. Ek mis Uganda soms maar geniet die lewe in die Chalbe woestyn vir eers in Kenya - Michnus as jy eendag die tydelike met die ewige wissel gaan mense darem kan se 'jy het gelewe'!! Cheers :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Swanniebraai on July 14, 2012, 09:15:05 pm
 :happy1:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 15, 2012, 11:10:32 am
Just had to add it to this rr.
They emailed me this last week, and this is what they have to say about Africa
We met this couple doing a 1.5year trip in Africa. We have spend quite some time with them in Ethiopia, really open minded relaxed going Germans.
--------------------------------------------
We want to provide a summary of our amazing fantastic journey:

We were almost 1.5 years on the road - nearly 17 months - these are 514 days and nights (of which we have 483 times slept in the roof tent)!

We have traveled to 24 countries - which were 26 border crossings - all free of corruption!

We have paid with 21 different currencies!

We traveled 48,683 km and the car consumed 7155 liters of diesel fuel (the cheapest diesel was in Egypt for 0.14 €, the most expensive diesel, we refueled in Turkey for 1.57 €)!

We had not a single flat tire!
 
Kofi – our car – did a great job: except for a small hole in the radiator, a broken seal on the clutch and a little welding on the vehicle frame we only had to replace parts like shock absorbers and brake pads. Furthermore, we did an oil change and a diesel filter change every 10,000 km. You can not complain really!
 
Actually, we were completely satisfied with our equipment! It's amazing with like a little one can be so happy!
 
We made no bad experiences​​. We were not robbed, we were not threatened or attacked. If there was a dicey situation, it was our own mistake (for example driving in the salt pan or in the mud hole).
 
We made about 13,000 pics and movies - that is a data set of 111 GB!
 
We have seen so many amazing things, therefore, there is not only "the one highlight". Here is our very long list of highlights:
 
Cappadocia - extraordinary landscapes in Turkey
 
Syria - culture in Aleppo and Palmyra, and a particularly warm welcome
 
Petra and Wadi Rum - History and desert in Jordan
 
Pyramids and the White Desert in Egypt - ancient wonders and unbelievable landscape
 
Sudan - the strangest entry by ferry across Lake Nasser and very nice people
 
Ethiopia - a special country with a very unique culture, delicious food and great mountain scenery
 
Lake Turkana - our great adventure - alone across the green border from Ethiopia to Kenya
 
the coast of the Indian Ocean - paradise under coconut palm trees at Tiwi Beach in Kenya and snorkelling trips in Tanzania
 
the gorilla trekking in Uganda - a really special experience 
 
the Serengeti - a childhood dream come true
 
the Usambara Mountains in Tanzania - what a view from the Mambo View Point Lodge
 
Zanzibar - Stone Town and dream beaches 
 
Malawi - a friendly country with an amazing lake and a music festival
 
great animal experiences in Zambia: elephants very close and an exciting river cruise on the Zambezi 
 
scenic flight in a helicopter above the Victoria Falls
 
Botswana - great game viewing in the Okavango Delta and finally a leopard
 
Namibia - for us, a unique highlight - this time we were particularly impressed by the Kaokoveld, the Spitzkoppe and the lonely campsites in the Namib Naukluft Park. We enjoyed the braai with kudu and springbok fillet. And always great: the starry sky!
 
South Africa: Kgalagadi Transfrontierpark with cheetahs on the car and hunting lions, the off-road trails along the Orange River, the loneliness in the Richtersveld National Park and the great coast road on the west coast. And of course, Cape Town: our emotional highlight, we with Kofi at the Cape of Good Hope, the view from Table Mountain to this particular city and our visit to the wine region. Great passes in the Little Karoo, walks in the Tsitsikamma National Park and the Wild Coast. Over the Sanipass to Lesotho. Views without end in the Drakensberg and the Blyde River Canyon. Game viewing in Kruger National Park and many friendly people who have invited us spontaneously.
 
Endless beach walks and delicious fish and crayfish in Mozambique.
 
During the trip we met wonderful people who have impressed us. It is unbelievable under which circumstances many people have to live - and these people give visitors such a warm welcome. We have had a lot of fun with many nice travellers we met.
 
The motto of the trip: "Spend your money on memories" - that brings no interest, but nobody can take these experiences. So we both still believe that this trip was absolutely the right decision. We would do it again exactly the same!
Transkei Wildcoast

(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-DFFRubbAXeI/T7DMhddRnKI/AAAAAAAABZ4/Wyw8ZBLRJgs/s720/P1080366.JPG)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2012, 04:36:04 pm
From the ferry from Ssese to Entebbe from Ssese Island a Dutch traveller told us to go camp in the zoo in Entebbe. We all laughed at her, since when can you camp IN the zoo? It turned out to be true, and it was not some run down place with a few dead donkeys and two pigeons. They had rhinos, lions, giraffe, chimpanzees the works, even a Shoebill stork.  You are allowed to come and go as you please and in the evening if you wish you can stroll through the zoo without any other travelers.

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This bar is for people waiting for the ferry to Entebbe.

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One of the cleaner ferries I have seen, with some local Leon Schuster and Shorty type dvd showing for entertainment

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Packed line sardines again.

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Entebbe zoo entrance.

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Zoo lodging. Less than 10usd p/p to share the house.

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Riding around the zoo after hours

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This is the rare Shoebill stork. Very impressive and a big bird.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2012, 05:17:38 pm
Entebbe is quite a happening spot. There's good restaurants, bars and clubs to party till early morning. The bottanical garden and it's huge mile high trees are something to behold and worth a visit when in Entebbe.

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They have some big ass cockroaches roaming around.

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Cavorting around Entebbe cruising the strip. Ye, ye, the main road  :lol8:

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Where else can you buy real vellies like this with hairs and all, and in different animal skins? Man about town suave  :mwink:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WxcxFWG/0/M/i-WxcxFWG-M.jpg)
It's Toss white, why? because I do not give a toss how white, or you want me to give a toss with Aloe?

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Brain fruit, because it looks like a brain. Never? The smell is horrendous. Something between fermenting sewage and some sweet Papaya.  

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I had to take the bike to get enough distance for this picture and then use the phone to tell Elsebie where to stand in front of the tree  :biggrin:

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Skyscraper tall

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lqg92XW/0/M/i-Lqg92XW-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on July 18, 2012, 05:21:53 pm
I just need to go back to Uganda again. I found it rather expensive though!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2012, 05:24:25 pm
Then you must be a cheap skate TVB  :eek7: :lol8:

The place was one of the cheapest for us to tour. Beers, and sodas were cheap, and camping around R100 for a campsite. Food did not even feature as an expense in Uganda.

The park entrance fees was stupid expensive.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on July 18, 2012, 05:28:36 pm
No camping and even Sophies motel in Entebbe were cheap, but we had to buy food in bulk and export to the DRC - The food we bought were imported from SA - Really expensive plus airfreight to the DRC :o
Depend what you are buying I suppose....but DS heaven thats for sure!!  :laughing4:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2012, 05:47:01 pm
Yip agree 100% with you on d/s nirvana that for bloody sure.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2012, 06:17:24 pm
We passed Kampala staying one night just picking up a new camera for Elsebie at one of the fancy malls where Game decided to move in because business is bad in SA they might score in Uganda. Like I said in my previous reports stay de hell away from cities, they are all the same up through Africa and if you’ve seen one you have seen them all. There’s much more interesting places to see in Africa than dirty over crowded congested cities. The people are never as friendly as with rural folke there’s nothing vibrant and alive about these big cities.

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RedCherry camp Kampala

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fixing the compressor for the umpteenth time.

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It has been a long time since we were able to make some boer sarmies. And we got to treat ourselves to some Captain

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Redcherry camp in Kampala, this is what a backpackers look like mid morning. Kids got to tell the parents they are not being murdered and scalped in deep dark Africa  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7TQxhdg/0/S/i-7TQxhdg-S.jpg)  (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-B3S4P5Q/0/S/i-B3S4P5Q-S.jpg)
Great people with a sense of humour
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on July 18, 2012, 07:00:58 pm
Mzungu is what our Swahili friends call us...'the pale skins'  :imaposer:

The only real thread in Uganda (more to the North) is the LRA Soldiers - Lords resistance army....

The Country with the most friendly people I have come accross in Africa - During the night you can join in on a beach party @ lake Victoria....gr8 live band music, gr8 spirit  - Africa at her best!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 18, 2012, 07:16:22 pm
Our last stop over was in Jinja the town that is renowned for the source of the Nile, as it’s the only place where water flows out of lake Victoria and on route to Egypt.

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There's a few South African run and own lodges on the banks of the Nile, stunning views and white water rafting on offer

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The first part of the Nile

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Source of the Nile, and if all work we would follow it to the end in Egypt. Cheap ass, did not want to pay nearly R200 to go down to the view point, so we did the second best thing and tresspass.

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Sunset over the start of the Nile

We spend a total of 25 days in Uganda way more than our budget for time allowed, and it was still too short. To date it was my favourite country since we started the trip and I will be back for bloody sure!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: wernerroux on July 19, 2012, 01:42:46 pm
Goosebumps!  Africa is calling my name again!!!  It seems you are enjoying every single moment..jealousness! 

Break a leg!

Werner
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: MINZI on July 20, 2012, 09:13:48 pm
What a journey. I think that a trip like this can only be done once in a lifetime as you can not improve on it.
Title: Kenya and Nairobi
Post by: michnus on July 23, 2012, 12:12:54 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q9TJzbS/0/L/i-Q9TJzbS-L.jpg)

The plan with Kenya was that we had to get both our passports stamped. The reason for that was that travelers going North to Ethiopia could no longer apply for a visa in Nairobi and had to send their passports back to country of origin. Our plan was to go to Uganda with the second passport while our other passport was send back to the embassy of Ethiopia in South Africa.

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Roadside restaurants are the cheapest to buy food

Or we would spend two weeks sitting around waiting for our passports and we were on a budget for time that was not an option. I am not proud of it, but we had to convince the customs official at the border to stamp our second passports for us. He protested quite a bit but gave in after a while. Well, when travelling you have to do what is necessary to go forward.

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Goatmeat with Chipati and beers, really nice!

Kenya pulled our heart strings the moment we rode into it. We stopped for goat meat and Chapati at road side shop. These small little travel oasis spring up every now and then between nowhere and a rock. There's nothing better to kick the boots off for a an hour, sip some beers and enjoy the friendly chatter of the locals.

The one thing that got to us quite quick was the absolute horrendous driving standards in Kenya. Basically they are in my opinion the most dangerous drivers we have ever had to deal with. Over taking on the wrong side of the road, passing on blind corners or just speeding with overloaded buses. In my 25 year driving I have never had to avoid a head on crash by driving of the road. In Kenya it happened more than 10 times.

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That is about the only negative thing I can come up for Kenya. The people are overall friendly and easy going, even rural areas people would wave at us and come over for a chat when we stopped. We will have to go back to Mombasa as we missed it this time round. With the shocks and other parts we were waiting for our time was flying.

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Jungle Junction gate in Nairobi

We headed straight for Jungle Junction to get everything sorted from the shocks to sending the passports back to SA to the Ethiopian embassy. Chris the owner of Jungle Junction is one serious cool German that owns the place. a Bit eccentric at times but that is Chris for you.

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Chris telling Harold to get the fuck out of his workshop while he is servicing their bikes.   :lol8:

There's a great vibe at Jungle Junction with all the overlanders, beers and happy chatter of people. People fix cars and trucks and bikes, some mommies do home schooling for the travelling kids and others are consumed with internet blogs.

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Jungle Junction camp ground

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Charge the batteries, washing, fixing stuff, update blogs and beers plenty of them

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The honesty fridge at Jungle Junction, we really ripped into it  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 23, 2012, 01:14:43 pm
There was too much stuff on my bikes that I wanted fixed. Chris workshop are open for use, and if you ask upfront his tools are at our disposal.
Harold rode around doing the shocks. With or without a Carne the customs people charge any biking stuff coming into Kenya.

  (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cQ4GLFC/0/M/i-cQ4GLFC-M.jpg)
Setting up the outside bike stand. Beers were consumed at such a rate the fridge struggled to keep up

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I had to cool the tools in a bucket of water.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wVLVgMG/0/M/i-wVLVgMG-M.jpg)
Some bikes did not make it

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2SdXnfK/0/M/i-2SdXnfK-M.jpg)
Marsabit took it's toll on shocks and bikes. If you want to overload a bike you will get shit

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X4SJpN4/0/M/i-X4SJpN4-M.jpg)
Thank you DHL, bastids!! These okes will take your last cent

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 25, 2012, 10:59:12 pm
Since we have spend so much time in Nairobi without actually having to apply for permanent residency. It might be a good idea to tell and show a bit more about the place.  

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Useless I just could not get it to zero

Let me go back just a bit. After our trip through Uganda we once again we headed for Nairobi to fit our new tires for our journey further North.  We toyed with the idea of going to Mombasa for a few days BUT after a ‘hair-raising’ trip from the main border of Uganda to Nairobi we decided that Mombasa will have to go on our ‘to-do-later’ list!  Kenyan roads must be one of the most dangerous travelling routes in Africa – trucks and busses disregard anybody else on the road, passing vehicles on blind corners are normal and if you are the smaller vehicle, you must give way.

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Would be forgiven if you think it's some where in Northern province

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On our way back from Uganda to Nairobi we tried to avoid the main road and stuck to some back roads after some hair raising experience on the main road. Some of these roads were just plain rubbish and rattled everything on the bike to pieces

Just outside a small town, Eldorette we stayed at a ‘mini Lost City’.  The owner is a very generous and helpful individual.

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Naibeni River lodge, camping is cheap.
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Grotto mini lost city, lots of cushions around like in a harem.

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Lake Nakuru, not allowed in with the bikes so we had to zoooom moer toe to get a glimpse of the flamingos

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Many houses and buildings displayed murals with various themes, some were quite strange
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on July 25, 2012, 11:25:50 pm
Stunning stuff thank you  :thumleft:
Title: Tit bits from Nairobi.
Post by: michnus on August 06, 2012, 12:03:30 pm
Just before we set out for the mother of all trails we had to fix the bikes again and get everything sorted for the trip to Ethiopia via lake Turkana.

Not to bore you too much here's some pictures of live in Nairobi and some of the people that love the same type of travels we do. The IT industry was over representative of travelers. Most made some good money and sold this-or-that IT company or business to travel.

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Margus and Carina from Estonia traveled around the world for 5 years

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Jami Naukkarinen from Finland.

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Martin Erichsen, a biker and hiker from Germany

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Laurant is a french balls to the wall traveler.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JwMjHWZ/0/M/i-JwMjHWZ-M.jpg)
And then some local flavour.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wbW5Czz/0/S/i-wbW5Czz-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TVjWrsh/0/M/i-TVjWrsh-M.jpg)
Fok, Dutchies you do not braai meat like that!  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: krister on August 06, 2012, 12:25:31 pm
'n Paar epic foto's!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 06, 2012, 12:45:48 pm
One thing about travels, you learn stuff fast and preconceived ideas fly out of the window fast. If you love travel and thought it to be impossible then look at this.

People buy up old vehicles and then fly in and out of countries where they store their vehicles. They fly in for the time they have to travel. Then other travel to the next country or time allow and store it again. It's not a bus load of money. Also the vehicles does not have to cost a lot of money.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-48cHCFP/0/M/i-48cHCFP-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vdjDr2q/0/S/i-vdjDr2q-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LH3sqXn/0/S/i-LH3sqXn-S.jpg)
Elsebie and Martijn help to setup the gentleman's new laptop for him. He and his is 84 and they still travel like this in an old converted  Iveco ambulance

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-T6G9T3x/0/M/i-T6G9T3x-M.jpg)
The fun never stops, and with a mix lot of middle aged travelers, well you know.  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ShTfD5L/0/M/i-ShTfD5L-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gtwXThc/0/M/i-gtwXThc-M.jpg)
Some like a French kiss from a Giraffe

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DvVwW3x/0/M/i-DvVwW3x-M.jpg)
Local taxi's are a blast, they change the music from gospel to western rock the moment we get in the taxi. Nice of them to cater for us. And really cheap


There are malls for expads and like we have in SA, but the fun is in the small markets around Nairobi.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-P49brw7/0/S/i-P49brw7-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-z3vxfZS/0/S/i-z3vxfZS-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8P44R62/0/M/i-8P44R62-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mQqtGRC/0/M/i-mQqtGRC-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wrQhtfn/0/M/i-wrQhtfn-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWVvzBX/0/M/i-QWVvzBX-M.jpg)
Food is cheap, chips are made while you wait served with a beer or coke

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dZcVxxF/0/M/i-dZcVxxF-M.jpg)
Some were so exited to see foreign bikes they could hardly contain their excitement.

Time to get going for Lake Turkana and get some action!! 
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kerritz on August 06, 2012, 01:10:47 pm
Lekker man!!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 06, 2012, 01:23:40 pm
must get the page to turn.  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: I&horse on August 06, 2012, 02:06:52 pm
What is traveling if you don't experience the local way of life?

I find it amazing when you get foreigners (usually POME's) who go to another country and then refuse to try local dishes, delicasies and customs.
I recently had a guy come over for work, and asked him if he would like to go up Table mountain or do the Waterfront. Guess what, he ended up in a pub on the Waterfront watching footie.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on August 06, 2012, 03:28:12 pm
must get the page to turn.  :biggrin:
:coffee2: :hello: Lekker Michnus... Really enjoying the read. Travel safe!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kaboef on August 06, 2012, 03:39:03 pm
Ah lekker.
The report that keeps on reporting.   :biggrin:

When are you going back to Cairo?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 06, 2012, 03:49:05 pm
Ah lekker.
The report that keeps on reporting.   :biggrin:

When are you going back to Cairo?


If I can get all the bureaucratic shit together for Egypt hopefully some time in Sept.  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Rynet on August 07, 2012, 06:26:01 pm
Enjoying the RR , lekker photos  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Brakenjan on August 08, 2012, 11:35:12 am
Lekker Mich!!!  :thumleft:

Uganda hie kom ons!!!  :ricky:   :ricky:   :ricky:
Title: Turkana here we come!!
Post by: michnus on August 13, 2012, 02:15:31 pm
Lake Turkana

There’s one popular route from Kenya to Ethiopia, well not that people want to drive it, it’s the only short cut connecting the two countries, and it’s the last bit of dirt road that connects Cape town to Egypt, other than that the entire route from south to north is tarred. It’s a bad 280km corrugated dirt road with lots of volcanic rocks and rutted from all the trucks, not technical at all but for the better part only tests a vehicle’s suspension and the driver’s patience. From Isiolo to Marsabit the road has been tarred teh last 2-3 years. Only this one piece is left.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LcPNsHj/1/M/i-LcPNsHj-M.jpg)
Red route is our route, Yellow is the normal route from Kenya to Ethiopia and Pink is the last 280km shock killer that is left

The other route (red) is a less travelled road for different reasons via Lake Turkana, it forms part of the lava fields from Mojale and Marsabit and runs all the way to Lake Turkana, formerly known as Lake Rudolph or locally called the turquoise lake. We got told at Jungle Junction about this route by a few travellers that came down from Ethiopia to Kenya. They warned us that this is not recommend as there’s much more to this route than just a scenic ride up to Ethiopia. The more they told us the more we wanted to go this way. It offers so much more than the Marsabit area, and frankly we needed a bit of excitement.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ssrfk3q/0/XL/i-ssrfk3q-XL.jpg)

We tried to source as much info on this route. Marcus and Karina two Estonians on an 1100GS did it three or four months earlier and they broke their bike’s sub frame and had to pay silly money to get a pick-up van to take the bike to Jungle Jungle. They were sitting at JJ’s for nearly two months waiting for a new one. Besides that Marcus got heat stroke on that route and they nearly ran out of water and fuel. Another Turkish rider and his wife Deniz and Elif also did part of the route and he got out of it with a broken gearbox after a fall. He had a backup truck carrying his fuel and his wife Elif were at least able to ride in the truck.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LZV9dgz/0/L/i-LZV9dgz-L.jpg)
No easing into the thing. Get off the tar at Isiolo and it turns into this.

What makes this route so dangerous and interesting is that overlanders need to carry their own fuel and water for the nearly 900km of the route up Lake Turkana and into Ethiopia. Most travellers’ team up with 4×4’s or trucks to carry their fuel and water and for added support when things go wrong. Just to add some more zest to this mix for this adventure the route follows the lava rocks and sand that’s also crossing into Marsabit, making riding it slow, dangerous and potentially a killer of tyres.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PcCNphF/0/L/i-PcCNphF-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5fBBTvH/0/L/i-5fBBTvH-L.jpg)

The road do not carry much traffic and the rocks do not round off as nice as on the Marabit road. Which leave them nice and sharp for soft tyres. The main issue is that there is no back up whatsoever, it is remote and you can not just summons a helicopter or rescue effort if things go wrong. Another traveller told me they had heat stroke there and the man was in a coma for two days. When they eventually got a message out to Nairobi, the rescue people said that if the man does not wake up by the next day they are not going to start a vehicle.

This is desolation valley!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on August 13, 2012, 02:56:00 pm
Unreal !  please keep it coming  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on August 13, 2012, 03:46:10 pm
Dis altyd scary om so afgesonder te wees van hulp, maar dit gee daai regte gevoel van isolated adventure!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 13, 2012, 04:53:30 pm
I knew this was not going to be a easy ride and was worried about Elsebie, the bike was going to be much heavier and the riding on the wrong side of difficult. She is a competent rider, and I owe her this trip to prove to herself she is competent enough for such trips. After our Angola trip in 2007 she told me she want to do such a trip. She was adamant and assured that she will be able to ride this route.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bf4zQ9R/0/L/i-bf4zQ9R-L.jpg)
Moer toe one-horse donkey town in the middle of nowhere. Stopped for some bread and canned food, this would be last big town we would see for a while.

We decided when back in Kenya from Uganda to look for some overlanders to team up with when back at JJ’s. One couple with two friendly blond haired girls were planning to go that way but did not had space for our stuff in their car, and they in the end also did not do the route as the risk of car trouble and two kids were too great.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-N8542mC/0/L/i-N8542mC-L.jpg)
No name, just a few shacks and a dust road going through it. The place looked like a typical western spot.

We had a few evenings with people at JJ's discussing whether we must go alone or not. We could argue all the way that a person must rather do such trips closer to home than in the middle of nowhere. But this is why we ride bike after all is it not? I had trepidations about this and did not want to end out trip with one of us getting hurt. But I owe it to her, and she owe it to herself.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VnHVjhG/0/L/i-VnHVjhG-L.jpg)
Kenya sure are a beautiful counrty

Eventually we decided to buy some extra fuel cans and water cans and go at it on our own. There’s sure to be places for us to get water and petrol. We do not need to convince a local to give us 70L or 100L of fuel as with 4×4’s and so drain their only source. They would sure be able to spare us 10L or 20L.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6s5JCtQ/0/L/i-6s5JCtQ-L.jpg)
Wild life was on the iffy side.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on August 13, 2012, 06:45:53 pm
I hope there is going to be a book coming out of this trip with travel advice, routs and does and don’ts. :deal:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 14, 2012, 06:42:32 pm
There were two or three routes to Loiyangalani, unfortunate for us we had to take the one from Isiolo to Maralet to fill our bikes, extra fuel cans and get water. This was the last town we were able to get fuel and water. The people do not see bikers often and we were surrounded by eager eyes from the locals. We set out late afternoon on very heavily laden bikes on route to Baragoie and South Horr.

The bikes had food for a few days, 15liters extra fuel each and 10 liters of water each.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G7L8L6t/0/L/i-G7L8L6t-L.jpg)

Not 5km out of town and the road turned to slow, 4×4, technical rock climbing all the way up the escarpment. We only managed 25km for the rest of the afternoon and were looking for a camp spot when we got to this campsite.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VQGrJ7n/0/L/i-VQGrJ7n-L.jpg)
With the heavy bikes the going was slow. We had to go slow and be as easy on the bikes as possible.

Amazing as we stop for a rest we see this small cottage just off the road on the escarpment. On enquiry it was less to rent it for the night than we normally paid for camping! The friendly staff helped us unpack, got us some beers, and due to the altitude and the cold at night they made us a Cedar wood fire in the cottage. It is the first time we smelled Cedar wood in a fireplace and it gave off a very nice pleasant sweet smell.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JKgds4g/0/L/i-JKgds4g-L.jpg)

Freaky, that in the middle of nowhere this place pops up and it's as cheap as dirt. The owner is a Belgium wanting to make some business here. I think he is not going to be busy this road has not been used for quite some time.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-g65qP7g/0/L/i-g65qP7g-L.jpg)

We knew the next days riding would be hard on us and the bikes, it was nice to have a bit off unexpected luxury before the work start.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on August 15, 2012, 08:16:57 am
Nice cottage! Met my luck, slaan ek altyd kamp op so 2 km voor die plek en sien hom eerste ding die volgende oggend eers. :(
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: chickenbadger on August 15, 2012, 08:22:45 am
Such a great RR  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 15, 2012, 02:03:02 pm
Nice cottage! Met my luck, slaan ek altyd kamp op so 2 km voor die plek en sien hom eerste ding die volgende oggend eers. :(

don't worry it happened to us many times.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 15, 2012, 04:54:55 pm
We really regret taking more pictures, but in the heat and slow going technical riding to stop for pictures were just too much work. The road to Baragoie and South Horr snakes between and up mountain ranges and some of the most beautiful surrounding imaginable. The going was slow and although it was partly overcast it was hell hot. The entire road up to South Horr was badly run out and corrugated, little did we know the 1st and second gear 20km/h riding was what Murphy had planned for us for much of this route to Ethiopia.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-37BdwHk/0/L/i-37BdwHk-L.jpg)
The slow going had some benefits, we were able to enjoy the breath taking surroundings

We arrived at the small village of Barangoi in a cloud of dust. We saw they had a fuel pump and on asking were told they have some but for the majority of time the tanks are always empty. I can understand it as the roads to the village are so bad that tankers cannot deliver fuel and they get delivered by Land Cruisers and other old 4×4’s.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jDS4Phn/0/L/i-jDS4Phn-L.jpg)
The road meander through the mountains and into river beds.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sjPfPmk/0/L/i-sjPfPmk-L.jpg)
Reminiscent of the Northern Province bushveld

We calculated that we would be able to finish the route with the fuel we had on board. Not taking into account that the bikes fuel consumption can drop to 16km per liter when doing slow technical riding and we knew it was not going to get easier up North.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G4PBcWD/0/L/i-G4PBcWD-L.jpg)
Farking hot, shade was a welcoming sight.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3nPSd7B/0/L/i-3nPSd7B-L.jpg)
Some God forsaken little village turned ghost village.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DMk62bh/0/L/i-DMk62bh-L.jpg)
Few kilometers before South Horr and taking another rest from the heat and slow riding. The best camping spots around, it got difficult to start again after relaxing under lush green trees.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on August 15, 2012, 05:01:08 pm
Dis flippen mooi daar! Nie gedink dit is so groen nie. Amper so groen soos ek, elke keer as ek hierdie rr verder lees :D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: madmike999 on August 15, 2012, 05:08:20 pm
 :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 15, 2012, 05:19:54 pm
South Horr is a small village between nowhere and hell. Nothing happens there every 30min and it last for the entire week. That is the nothingness, I am talking about. The people on the other hand are super nice and we got chatting with locals within minutes. It's the usual stuff, where from, where too, how old, how many kids, that sort of thing. There is one bar guest house with a groovy African theme and the youngster running the place had some drinks in our hands with in seconds.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vMHV9gq/0/L/i-vMHV9gq-L.jpg)
What in life is better than this? fokkol!!  :ricky:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-B3ggBZT/0/L/i-B3ggBZT-L.jpg)
The owner of the only and best bar cum guest house in South Horr.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WkFKs72/0/L/i-WkFKs72-L.jpg)
Just outside South Horr the road turned into powder dust and sand.

The rest of the route to Loiyangalani was a relatively easy going with sand tracks and at some places we could even use 3rd and 4 for a few hundred meters. For the first time the heat got really unbearable, it must have been well into the 40’s or 50’s. It is nice to ride without a jacket, but it’s actually beter with one on as it keeps the warm hot air out. Just about 50km before Loiyangalani we rode into the lava fields.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CspNvmn/0/L/i-CspNvmn-L.jpg)
What is that movie? I see dead people or something the small boy said? Well, I see boobs everywhere  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TWWnSHM/1/L/i-TWWnSHM-L.jpg)
If the sweltering dry heat wasn't bad enough the dust choked us up.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Xc95Lkx/0/L/i-Xc95Lkx-L.jpg)
Between the bike and myself I was heavier on water than what the bike was on petrol.

While riding I thought to myself I am sure this is the devil‘s play ground, when camels succumb to the terrain it’s really not a good environment for people. How the tribes survive here is an absolute mystery. Their homes resemble a squatter camp more than anything else, and there’s no water here, except lake water and that is salty.
Not that there are a lot of them around.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rLn3JXb/0/L/i-rLn3JXb-L.jpg)
Turkana is a very inhospitable place, even camels find it hard.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5tXkCqL/0/L/i-5tXkCqL-L.jpg)
Millions of years old. Lava rocks all over the place.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GX5xRVQ/0/L/i-GX5xRVQ-L.jpg)
This is the road, there is no line between the road and the edge.

Like a fast PK from the irritated guy next to you in a smelly dodgy bar, we were instantly PK'ed wide awake and had to concentrate like hell riding the lava pebbles and rocks while the sun was busy boiling our brains.

It was quite a difference riding this pebble size razor sharp rocks than sand or any other thing we have been riding before. It’s like riding on fist-size marbles in a hollowed out track and still trying to avoid the sharp edged rocks. Then there’s the size,some are smaller and more of them, or bigger sizes and they throw your front wheel all over the place. Riding out of the track is impossible and dangerous.  Slow going is a no-no, you have to keep the speed to at least 30km/h or even higher. That increases the risk of falling and this is NOT the place to drop a bike.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5XsBdTw/0/L/i-5XsBdTw-L.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/24728358_DVcv89#!i=2022564264&k=5XsBdTw&lb=1&s=A)
At last the view of Lake Turkana. It was a welcoming site to some water again. It is called the turquoise lake for being a turquoise colour. I am just to shit at taking pictures that show the true colours so this is as turquoise as it get.
click to open bigger


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9MCLQCB/0/L/i-9MCLQCB-L.jpg)
There is either water or rocks, no vegetation around. How people live in such harsh conditions are beyond comprehension.

It is nearly impossible to try and understand how people can live in such extreme environment. Not even to mention what they know about the Western world. Sometimes I think they are better off not knowing the shit we sit with in the western world.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Kaboef on August 15, 2012, 05:26:02 pm
Sometimes I think they are better off not knowing the shit we sit with in the western world.[/color][/center]

And happier for it.

Excellent post and photies, thanks Michnus.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 15, 2012, 05:34:58 pm
Photo taking became almost impossible, when the going is good you need make up time and when the terrain is bad you work hard to get out of it. At one stage I stopped for a photo, Elsebie stopped behind me and with the weight of the bike on the loose stones, loosing her balance just for a moment, it was quite a balancing act, Elsebie dropped the bike. I did my best to explain to her in my calmest voice that at this place you do not drop a bike, whatever you do, do not drop a bike.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PP8dBNG/0/L/i-PP8dBNG-L.jpg)

Rocks always and I mean always, win the fight with a bike’s engine casing or sump or whatever lever you need to use when negotiating rocks. I knew she already had that worked out for herself when we first rode into the lava field, and to try and recover a bike from here will be no easy feat, the terrain was really tricky but also good fun to ride.

Heeltyd Speeltyd, this is why we love riding bike!

No sudden braking, you just do not stop, feeling like ABS that’s ON on a dirt road, it’s even difficult to walk on the rocks.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hhkLhmj/0/L/i-hhkLhmj-L.jpg)
Sign of a good few days riding. Elsebie's hands started to wear in

That afternoon late we reached Shady Palms Campsite in Loiyangalani. We debated long when last we felt so tired and had so much to drink without visiting the toilet. Each had about 1.5l of beer, 1.5l of water and .5l of soda before going to bed! Like at so many other camp sites the staff at the campsite was friendly and eager to please. We had some fresh fish from the lake, chips and coleslaw for dinner.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BpMqbQz/0/L/i-BpMqbQz-L.jpg)

Life is goood man!!
:lamer:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on August 15, 2012, 07:43:12 pm
Epic comes to mind or even bloody brilliant Ride Report  keep it coming
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on August 16, 2012, 11:03:09 am
How fortunate am I to work here, covered most of these roads in 4X4, SHOCK BREAKERS FOR SURE!!

Some of my pics of the area:.....
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on August 16, 2012, 11:06:17 am
.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on August 16, 2012, 11:11:28 am
You should definately write a book Michnus, I will buy 2, one for my son!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 16, 2012, 04:51:23 pm
Jou gelukkige bliksem. Ek wil weer daar gaan ry dis regtig n moerse mooi plek.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on August 16, 2012, 06:11:56 pm
You should definately write a book Michnus, I will buy 2, one for my son!


Yup Ill start saving for a first publication now :thumleft:
Title: Re: Turkana here we come!!
Post by: Rynet on August 17, 2012, 07:23:27 am

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ssrfk3q/0/XL/i-ssrfk3q-XL.jpg)



Some really beautiful photos here  :thumleft:, love this one . :thumleft:

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Rynet on August 17, 2012, 07:36:58 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DMk62bh/0/L/i-DMk62bh-L.jpg)





Love this photo as well . :thumleft:
Africa is really beautiful and your photos really do justice to it's beauty, thanks . :3some: 

Well done on tackling this hectic route  :o 

Keep it coming  :happy1:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Ganjora on August 17, 2012, 07:41:38 am
awesome RR michnus.   loving it.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Dusty on August 17, 2012, 07:46:56 am
So many of your photos reflect true Africa, thank you for sharing your adventures with us  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: funacide on August 17, 2012, 10:37:55 am
Even though I have read most of it on the Blog, this is really nice to read, thanks for sharing, REALLY Jealous
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on August 17, 2012, 11:21:03 am
Even though I have read most of it on the Blog, this is really nice to read, thanks for sharing, REALLY Jealous


thanks to all, I really appreciate the comments.

The blog we could only load limited pics at the time, the data speed was horrendously slow. I load more pictures to the report now that I have decent speed.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: MOGGIE on August 18, 2012, 10:11:47 am
Michnus, it is really a very nice ride report so far. I have followed it on your blog, but this makes it more enjoyable with all te comments.
I was going to sell my 650 Dakar but decided now to keep it. Instead I am going to sell my money gusseling smallholding and take the Unimog and bike and travell Afrika for a while.
Your trip is an insperation for me.
I used to do a lot of work in Africa and I would like to go there again to all the off the beaten track places.
After all, one's not getting younger and fitter.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on August 21, 2012, 08:03:58 pm
Can someone help michnus find his computer please  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 04, 2012, 05:01:09 pm
Michnus, it is really a very nice ride report so far. I have followed it on your blog, but this makes it more enjoyable with all te comments.
I was going to sell my 650 Dakar but decided now to keep it. Instead I am going to sell my money gusseling smallholding and take the Unimog and bike and travell Afrika for a while.
Your trip is an insperation for me.
I used to do a lot of work in Africa and I would like to go there again to all the off the beaten track places.
After all, one's not getting younger and fitter.


Moggie if you truly love travelling or everything around travelling, seeing new places, people then in the end excuses are just that excuses. Get going mate time is short.  :mwink: (http://d26ya5yqg8yyvs.cloudfront.net/gerg.gif)

Title: Rest day at Loiyangalani
Post by: michnus on September 04, 2012, 05:17:01 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FvsNkB6/0/M/i-FvsNkB6-M.jpg)

The next day we took a ‘rest-day’ and tried to explore the town, BUT the heat was unbelievable, even with the wind blowing. This almost forgotten town is mostly getting its income from the organized over lander groups travelling from Marsabit via North Horr. It’s an oasis in the desert, lots of palm trees and home to three different tribes of people.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vS83Dpc/0/M/i-vS83Dpc-M.jpg)
Still red faced from the heat, can't remember when last we were this tired.

There are some 3 or 4 campsites in Loiyangalani. Obviously the German run and owned one is the most expensive.To use their swimming pool cost 10usd per swim. The one where the overlanders hang are a real shit hole. Whispering palms are as good as it gets and their friendly staff, inviting green grass and palm trees are just what a traveler want.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-q5VnxRT/0/M/i-q5VnxRT-M.jpg)
About as good as it's gets, and fish if they can catch any.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PFVd6sn/0/M/i-PFVd6sn-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VwCT7Wn/0/M/i-VwCT7Wn-M.jpg)
Oasis living is hard work, had to rest the next few days were going to be tough.
Title: Loiyangalani, not the land of milk and honey.
Post by: michnus on September 04, 2012, 05:24:16 pm
We had to laugh, when the manager at the campsite told us there are showers with hot water! Well up to now we got used to cold showers because that’s all that campers get at campsites. Well the irony of it was there were only one tap, and they got their water from the hot spring behind the camp and the water was hot, but there were no cold water tap. In 40’ degree heat we had a shower which was great but it was hot!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-H2mrdpm/0/M/i-H2mrdpm-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qQGMdBr/0/M/i-qQGMdBr-M.jpg)
Dust invested midget houses, how people sleep in there in such heat is beyond reason.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hHmMrz8/0/M/i-hHmMrz8-M.jpg)
Town is much bigger, was to lazy to walk up the hill,and in any case to hot, stay close to the beers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8cqVKq8/0/M/i-8cqVKq8-M.jpg)
To Marsabit or Hell, either will leave you with a nasty funny twitch in the one eye.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JRzG9fM/0/M/i-JRzG9fM-M.jpg)
The nothing grows like hell in this place

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Cq8MjJp/0/L/i-Cq8MjJp-L.jpg)
No doubt people must believe in religion, but in this place, the bar is a good one to believe in and follow!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 04, 2012, 05:31:33 pm
We asked around for some fuel and a guide told us he can spare us some 15L, which we gladly accepted. The Dakars are not really very fuel efficient when doing these kind of technical terrain. We also refilled our water and were set to leave for Sibiloi the next day.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XWX3djR/0/L/i-XWX3djR-L.jpg)
Security dog, he slept next to our tent.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pJ8h8Q7/0/L/i-pJ8h8Q7-L.jpg)
It got difficult to pack up when the beers are cold and a cold breeze blows between the palms

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GnBBJjq/0/L/i-GnBBJjq-L.jpg)
Gourmet cooking. The camp cooked us a huge meal, he might have know that we would need it the next day. The fish looked really delicious, and taste great except for the damn bones. This fish is the same as a Carp.  :lol8:

Luckily we got some petrol, if not we would not have been able to complete the stretch. We seriously under estimated the fuel consumption of the bikes in such terrain.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: 2StrokeDan on September 04, 2012, 07:57:11 pm
I am enjoying this report tremendously muchly, and the photos are really good. What an experience this must be!!
Like the photo of the Yamaha DT125!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: funacide on September 04, 2012, 10:17:39 pm
Awesome........... :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: landieman on September 06, 2012, 12:46:34 am
 :thumleft: :thumleft:RR
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Pathfinder on September 06, 2012, 07:24:42 am
 :happy1:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 10, 2012, 01:31:55 pm
It’s funny how people’s opinions differ on road conditions. We have learned a long time ago not to take the opinions of all overlanders and locals too serious when they tell us about the road conditions we are likely to travel.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XtDb2SR/0/L/i-XtDb2SR-L.jpg)
Sommer early morning outside Loiyangalani road to Sibiloi, take the conservative option rather than be a hero and break the bike or yourself.

Most of the times they get it wrong, and sometimes horribly wrong. When I did the research on this route next to Lake Turkana I stumbled onto a website of a South African that did the same route in a Toyota VX big ass 4×4 a year or so ago. He stated that for motorcycles this is an absolute no-no.  If an 4×4 driver is not a biker as well, they will most of the time not be able to tell a biker what he or she wants to hear.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-js36Hsm/0/L/i-js36Hsm-L.jpg)

Then you ask a local about the roads around his own village and they normally can’t even get to a point where you understand it’s either horrific or a highway.  Well, that is generalising, it’s not always like that, we got some good info on this route from an overlander that did it weeks before, just to mention he is a very experienced overlander.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NXSm2K2/0/L/i-NXSm2K2-L.jpg)

As we embark on the next leg of the route up to Sibiloi Park, some local guides greeted us and in the same breath and sentence told us, this is a good road you will be there in 2 hours! Yaaaa right, I thought to myself, and ask them when last they drove that road. Long time ago, and cannot remember, and with that I just laughed, greeted and rode off.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nFKFSkZ/0/L/i-nFKFSkZ-L.jpg)

The road turned rocky just outside the town up the escarpment as the lava fields surround the town and continues north.  There were some nasty bits which we cleared with much ease. The resting day we had in ‘oasis’ town paid off and we were able to make up time before it got too hot.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dpD9FNM/0/L/i-dpD9FNM-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-h949hQb/0/L/i-h949hQb-L.jpg)

To sum up this road, short and sweet, you have a choice of sand or rocks and for rocks you have a choice between big, small or lava rocks.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-D63x4zg/0/L/i-D63x4zg-L.jpg)
Specially for Pauli GPS4Africa  ;)

We each carried our additional 15L petrol, an additional 10L water with me and full trippers were  on our backs. One small miscalculation was that I am heavier consuming water than my bike is on fuel. Even the early morning sun was already trying to dry us into biltong.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-S7sT3xD/0/L/i-S7sT3xD-L.jpg)

From Loiyangalani it’s all rock riding only the size changes with nice hard pack sand in the many dry riverbeds we crossed. One thing I absolutely loved about the terrain and riding here was the absolute desolation. The places people can visit and really be alone are getting less and less all over the world. There’s a strange excitement about being this alone and knowing if things go wrong the outcome might not be that positive.  There’s no back up, no phone call to 911 or quick helicopter evacuation.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 10, 2012, 02:06:05 pm
I guess it’s that what keeps us all alive and happy, well for us for sure. It’s exhilarating stuff and it’s wonderful to get away from people for a while.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pfLrLKv/0/L/i-pfLrLKv-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fmvzXwv/0/L/i-fmvzXwv-L.jpg)
Die Duiwel uit die kinder bybel  :lol8:

Up on the escarpment the road turns into a rocky track that snakes through the empty open spaces. In one of the river beds we came across group of people scooping water from a well for their camels. We pulled in under the trees and were greeted with sceptic looks from them. I walked closer to them and greeted the men that were dumping the water into the buckets for the camels.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6KdxSRw/0/L/i-6KdxSRw-L.jpg)

It was only then that we saw how big this water well was. It’s roughly 4meters deep and 5meters across tapering down. They build steps down to the water and the men stood in a row passing the bucket to the top guy. It looked like a very old well.

They offered us one of the buckets, I tipped it over my head, basted, it felt good! I wished I could sit there the entire day throwing water over myself. Elsebie washed her face and got some water over her back, but it was time to leave, the sun was sucking water!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9xZPDrF/0/L/i-9xZPDrF-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WQrNxjC/0/L/i-WQrNxjC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-StXKWDf/0/L/i-StXKWDf-L.jpg)

Before Karsa gate the road really turned nasty, the two track road turned into one bad rocky bed. Our hands took a real beating and the bikes fans were working overtime in the heat. In the back of my mind I could not stop worrying about the tyres, these rock are sharp and it does not take much to slice a tyre.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KhNsD6P/0/L/i-KhNsD6P-L.jpg)
take a rest 40degree plus heat.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-z3sbFsn/0/L/i-z3sbFsn-L.jpg)
Poor bikes are heavy with all the fuel and water.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fdVKmrp/0/L/i-fdVKmrp-L.jpg)
It is 44'c 111'f we stop frequently to let the bikes cool. They are working hard in the sand and we do not want to take a chance with overheating.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on September 10, 2012, 04:16:14 pm
Beautiful!

Daai klippe is 'n bliksem en julle bikes was swaar gelaai. Well done! :thumleft:

Love hierdie RR.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 10, 2012, 04:48:50 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vRJw4Nm/0/X2/i-vRJw4Nm-X2.png)
Route from Loiyangalani to Karsa gate along lake Turkana.

Eventually, late the afternoon, we rode up to the park gate and just fell down on the cement under the cool shade of the roof. The two guards just smiled and went on their merry way watching soaps on their solar powered Dish TV. We did not have the energy to ride any more, and asked whether we could camp there.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JcKccqf/0/L/i-JcKccqf-L.jpg)
this is fun!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tTjPH9N/0/L/i-tTjPH9N-L.jpg)
Karsa gate Siboloi park.

No problem, they replied, but if you want to, at Head Quarters 9km away there’s a small canteen they might have a beer or two! After half an hour rest we dragged ourselves back to the bikes and head off to HQ 9km away. Man, 9kms can be far!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZPpkFDR/0/L/i-ZPpkFDR-L.jpg)

We could not believe it, at HQ, they had a small canteen and they had COLD beer. We sat down and gulped down some beers and drinks while some of the staff told us all their food and necessities gets delivered by boat from the other side of the lake. Nothings gets trucked or driven into the park from the outside. They claim the road down to Nairobi and Eldoret from the other side of the park is in a very good condition.  People stay for 2months duty at a time. Even their drinking water gets delivered in 200L drums.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-srFP8c8/0/L/i-srFP8c8-L.jpg)

There are dedicated camp spots in the park, all non-serviced and in the worst places imaginable. We stocked up on more beers and some eggs and pulled in next to a dry river bed under some big trees for the night.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-znD5Ttz/0/L/i-znD5Ttz-L.jpg)

At Karsa gate the guards showed us a map of the park roads, and which route we were supposed to take up to Illiret.  I heard from other people some of the roads in the park are disused and the map, they still sell for 6USD, is not correct. Luckily Tracks4Africa had some tracks that I thought would help so it should not be a problem to get to our next destination, Illiret 170km away.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NffCc7P/0/L/i-NffCc7P-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RPQkD3X/0/L/i-RPQkD3X-L.jpg)
Dinner!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSing on September 11, 2012, 07:51:21 am
Lekker julle 2!!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: funacide on September 11, 2012, 09:42:15 am
Damn awesome, I am sooooooo Jealous
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: dirtyXT on September 11, 2012, 02:55:20 pm
thanks for sharing!!! I'm loving all the different beers you are having. i see you got your priorities right! good luck, enjoy and keep them coming
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 12, 2012, 12:53:32 pm
As we left the next morning early. The first 10km of road was quite good and we thought if that could last we would be in Illiret late the afternoon. Well it did not last! One thing we learned was that planning goes out the window on routes like these.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sL7Q5jS/0/L/i-sL7Q5jS-L.jpg)
Sort of nice road turned into this shitty sand track.

Also the claims that the park are maintaining the roads were bullshit.  Our speed dropped to 20km/h average and our fuel consumption to a 16km/p/L range, which presented another new problem. Our next place to get fuel would only be in Turmi, Ethiopia and still a good 500km away.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Kpmfg7L/0/L/i-Kpmfg7L-L.jpg)

The bikes kept digging into the sand, when we got them to start to float the track changes. Add to that the track is over grown with bushes and thorns and our progress slowed to a crawl. Neither of us are new to sand riding and can cope with any sand track. This was the first time that we got into sand tracks that just did not wanted to play ball. The weight of the bikes were a serious disadvantages.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wK8mHXT/0/L/i-wK8mHXT-L.jpg)

This was bad, it took us 3 to 4 hours to cover the 12km. We would work our asses going forward and then fall forward onto the bike's tank I could see on the GPS we only did 400meters.

Eventually just before Koobi Fora, there was a small uphill and I decided to gun it through the field to the houses. Elsebie got behind me but got stuck and in all the mayhem the bike started overheating.

We were fucked!! Totally and utterly fucked from exhaustion. I showed her to stop and walked back to fetch her bike.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RWwVqs9/0/L/i-RWwVqs9-L.jpg)
Sucking water like a half dead camel!

One man gave me an old 5L oil can wrap in dirty old sponges and tied with old electric cable as a home make cooler for their water. We were really tired, and took us some time to cool down and feel normal again.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qJSJBgD/0/L/i-qJSJBgD-L.jpg)
Moer toe!

Eventually the men showed us around and they even had the nicest showers, we decided to set up camp in front of the main house for the evening. Without us asking they told us they would make us some fried fish and rice as it will help with building energy for the next day, we are going to need it.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PwpS5MG/0/L/i-PwpS5MG-L.jpg)
Land Rover grave yard

They filled our water bottles from their 200L water drums that have been shipped to them. Other than that there’s nothing except old Land Rover wrecks that once in days gone by made it there and died there.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zcr5H4Q/0/L/i-zcr5H4Q-L.jpg)
More dead Land Rovers

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HTQsRrK/0/M/i-HTQsRrK-M.jpg)
Still some wild life left.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-C8jZpVX/0/L/i-C8jZpVX-L.jpg)
About only this and grass growths there.

The setup is a research centre for fossils and they are just looking after the place. We went to bed knowing that the next day’s riding were going to be as hard.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BGRn5Xr/0/M/i-BGRn5Xr-M.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-48VVNVF/0/M/i-48VVNVF-M.jpg)
Dinner, Turkana fish and rice.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dGKNFpK/0/L/i-dGKNFpK-L.jpg)
Lake Turkana -baptism

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CjRtkgc/1/L/i-CjRtkgc-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wheelman on September 12, 2012, 02:12:06 pm
Reading this I can feel the heat and the thirst....I'm definitely going for a beer right now :ricky: Hardcore stuff Michnus :thumleft:This kind of stuff makes for the best memories. You should send a pic of those Landies to the 4x4Forum so that the Toyota manne can gloat :pot:  Thanks for posting....
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: mountainboy on September 13, 2012, 07:57:02 am
how much weight did you lose during the trip??  :lol8:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 13, 2012, 08:11:14 am
how much weight did you lose during the trip??  :lol8:

farking a lot. And to matters worse, locals eat shit hot food that no local Bobotie eating saffer boy can try and consume without it feeling like you are dumping toxic waste down your throat. Thank God for beer.   :biggrin:

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Bessie on September 13, 2012, 08:58:53 am
geen BS RR.

dankie Michnus!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: mountainboy on September 13, 2012, 09:20:51 am
how much weight did you lose during the trip??  :lol8:

farking a lot. And to matters worse, locals eat shit hot food that no local Bobotie eating saffer boy can try and consume without it feeling like you are dumping toxic waste down your throat. Thank God for beer.   :biggrin:



jy lyk seker nou rerig sexy!!! Remind me not too hump you when I see you  :3some:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: bud500 on September 14, 2012, 01:36:12 pm
Befok!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: charlw on September 14, 2012, 02:00:42 pm
Lekker Michnus!!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Funtana on September 14, 2012, 03:13:38 pm
Om  n skoeter in sand tery is eending. Swaar gelaai met kit vir lang afstande in sand is weer ander ding. Dit is lekker harde werk.  Sterkte en geniet dit !
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 17, 2012, 02:00:12 pm
We were seeing forward to Ethiopia and some Injera and beers, but for now we still had to get out of Turkana and to Omarate, the first town in Ethiopia. Little did we know we would get a load more adventure for the day.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7v8Dqvm/0/L/i-7v8Dqvm-L.jpg)
Early wake up call. Since we did not know what the days riding had in store for us.
The coffee was brewing while we packed up the tent and stretchers. We weren’t talking much both of us were busy with our own thoughts as the days riding were still going to be on the difficult side of interesting.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZRqZSdv/0/L/i-ZRqZSdv-L.jpg)
This part from Koobi to Elliret is not used by people and only the occasional traveler use this route.

The first piece out of Koobi Fora is sand and with the bikes warmed up, we stormed into the sandy field next to the sand road. Soooorrrrryyy  Kenia for riding off the road in your game park and buggering up the veld but it’s either that or we would have struggled through the sand till mid-morning.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7zNQcQQ/0/L/i-7zNQcQQ-L.jpg)
The morning sky is beautiful, at least it was overcast and made the riding more pleasant.

By now it became quite a lot of fun riding the rocky roads, skills got sharpened up in a jiffy, progress were good and we were in good spirit chasing down some of the dry pans that formed next to the lake. The bikes were keeping up well, and for once when they had to work and not drop us they came through.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8VFBVvp/0/L/i-8VFBVvp-L.jpg)

The GPS shows small turns and curves on the track in Tracks4Africa, those are the places we knew we would be slowed down by rocky hills.  The big ‘baddy’ was an insignificant little curve on T4A. A few bikers in the past spend some time in the extreme heat trying to get over with loaded bikes, nearly killing themselves in the process.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tKd6S2G/0/L/i-tKd6S2G-L.jpg)

Riding this terrain for the last few days taught us it will only be a short piece and should bottom out in the valley where the rocky road would be easier to ride. There were a few more but we cleared them quickly. As we got closer to Illiret the terrain and road turned into a great little rolling double track that was banked enough to carry some speed through the corners. Zebra’s and some other big buck were trotting away as we past them.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8dr4f7q/0/L/i-8dr4f7q-L.jpg)
The terrain switched between rocky patches and sand tracks, keeping us focused

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mZ8TbKV/0/L/i-mZ8TbKV-L.jpg

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-98Hpf73/0/L/i-98Hpf73-L.jpg)
And then some flat open spaces again.

In Illeret we signed out at the local police station and headed off to Omarate, 60km away. God knows how de hell people make a living here and from what. The people and police are extremely friendly, even escorted us to the closest cold drink.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9QtHsS3/0/L/i-9QtHsS3-L.jpg)
There's many dry river crossings on the way to Elliret.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MTmCK5N/0/L/i-MTmCK5N-L.jpg)

About 20km away, when a guy came out of a small building waving his arms, we had to stop again. Initially we decided to ignore him but he made such an effort to stop us we rode into the fenced off area he was standing.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2DB2Rtf/0/L/i-2DB2Rtf-L.jpg)
Last view of Lake Turkana. The Turquoise colours is stunning.

He made it clear to us he is the local police officer, certainly not dressed like one, and he must see our passports before going into Ethiopia. I passed our passport over to him and he started to flip the pages which to me seems like he knew what he was looking for. After a minute or so it became apparent the guy can’t read or do not really understand English.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Jk5TcXm/0/L/i-Jk5TcXm-L.jpg)
Some of the steep down hills are better walking the bike down than dropping it on rocks.

I quickly showed him look here and here and here and this is it and cheers we must be going there are beers in Omarate with our names on. A waste of time, but with a smile on our faces and him very grateful for the quick lesson we were on our way once again.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jrQb94S/0/L/i-jrQb94S-L.jpg)
Done it! Sibiloi is now behind us
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 17, 2012, 02:20:45 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Wnc8cnQ/0/L/i-Wnc8cnQ-L.jpg)
This is the official GPS border between Kenya and Ethiopia

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4XxJkWh/0/L/i-4XxJkWh-L.jpg)
Nearing Ethiopia the vultures were as plenty full as Pigeons in Cape town inner city.

In Ethiopia there was an early start to their rainy season and the only two big rivers we still had to cross, 25km before Omarate, were full flowing, we only figured that out later. The first one I walked and we managed to pushed the bikes through. By now it was midday and hell hot.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cjvpgmk/0/L/i-cjvpgmk-L.jpg)
One horse town, the horse died and nobody can you in if you decide to just pass them.

Around 5km away, as we came round a turn we found the second river. A big mother of a river, in full flood.  From this side of the river it initially looked good for us, to at least be able to walk the bikes through. It was close to 500 meters wide and as precaution I walked the river first. I nearly got washed away by the force of the water on my way to the other side.  The bad news was that the bank was washed away too deep for us to get the front wheel on the bank.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-D8sBp2V/0/L/i-D8sBp2V-L.jpg)
What a good laugh, she rode a hellova road and then dump the bike on a puddle!

We walked up and down the river to look for a better spot with no success. Second problem, we had only 5L water with us and weren’t sure if we could wait for it out. As we stood there contemplating what to do next, a local came up to us on a pikipiki with an AK46 over his shoulder.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XjrHCTh/0/L/i-XjrHCTh-L.jpg)
River in flood at Omarate, the first of two.

Quite a friendly chap, we tried to communicate with sign language and smiles as he did not understand any English. We gathered that he had to get to Omarate himself and that he is a policeman (the reason for the AK). He indicated to us that the river can take around 3 days to get low enough for us to pass, a problem for us with our little bit of water and food. He then suggested we follow him, he knew a round turn to Omarate.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BVfWsc7/0/L/i-BVfWsc7-L.jpg)
The policeman in the back helped us to get a detour to Omarate

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SfH644j/0/L/i-SfH644j-L.jpg)

We looked at each other with very tired expressions but had no other choice. It meant riding back 20km and crossing the one river again then take a northerly direction towards Omarate. This confused the shit out of me, we had to cross these two rivers again, according to my map, and they flow into a bigger river that runs past Omarate. With the language problem I could not ask more questions and had to follow him in good faith.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 17, 2012, 02:42:17 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-v95gs8d/0/L/i-v95gs8d-L.jpg)
Second river near Omarate in flood, I am the small figure in the distance.

He rode his little Yamaha off road bike like a real pro and we made good progress on the cattle tracks leading towards Omarate. It was evident that the locals used these tracks to get cattle and goods to and from the Omarate market.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kG9L3Zx/0/L/i-kG9L3Zx-L.jpg)
Damn hot!

Around 17km before Omarate the man stopped and showed me his tank is empty. We still had no idea how to get to Omarate as these tracks were not on T4A and I could not leave the man there. I gave him my last 2L that were in our jerry cans and hoped for a few more litres in Omarate.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fSxmR33/0/L/i-fSxmR33-L.jpg)
Many locals use this route with donkey-cards with no one single track.

The small town of Omarate is a busy little place with friendly people. We were greeted by the familiar “you, you, you…money, money” that all the other over landers warned us about. The locals directed us to the local immigration office and a small skinny man came over to greet us.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lwg96p9/0/L/i-Lwg96p9-L.jpg)
Uncle the Baboon, a 3 year old local thinks I have just the type of hair for tasty ticks.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vtX5wPM/0/L/i-vtX5wPM-L.jpg)
Ethiopia ended up being the mecca of punctures, we came in with one and we eventually left Ethiopia to Sudan on the border with a puncture. I can not remember how many but it was some 9 front on both and 6 or 7 on the back of both bikes.

He had to look in a book to see if he can find our names as we might have passed through there previously. It was an old accounting book he paged through, strange how they do things in Ethiopia, and what on earth would our names be in a book that looked like “my drag through the mud” homework book in pre school.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6Xb638T/0/L/i-6Xb638T-L.jpg)
Omarate hotel, five star eco living, with complementary condoms on the floor

He then stamped our passports with a stamp that could only go to 2010, and then changed the 0 to a 1 with a pen in our passports. We objected as police or other officials were going to give us loads of shit when they see the date have been changed with a pen. He laughed and assured us it would be no problem and in any case the entire Ethiopia is on some old time format and not on the time format the rest of the world use, it is 2003 in Ethiopia now and they do not care what’s on the passport.  Well, we can’t argue with that logic and in any case you talk to much, where’s the beer?

 
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on September 17, 2012, 02:42:33 pm
 :sip:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Offside on September 17, 2012, 03:21:05 pm
Unbelievable adventure, talk of the road less traveled.
Well done to you guys for living the dream.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on September 17, 2012, 03:29:43 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zQ9btkK/0/L/i-zQ9btkK-L.jpg)
Embarrassed written all over my smug face! Apparently those water buckets are what they use to serve water onto tables for restaurant guest.  :lol8:

Our clothes and boots were soaked with mud water and the sand rubbed our knees red from all the sand stuck between the knee guards.

We were quickly whisked away to the local hotel by a fixer. The policeman that helped us came over for a beer with a friend that reminded me of Crocodile Dundee.  He rides a normal 250cc Chinese special better than most KTM riders I have seen  .

The room cost us 7USD and had a sand floor. The shower we could use was next door at an additional 15BIRR (7rand) and how it works is that you stand in tin corrugated enclosure and a guy on a wood stand above you, throws water out of a drum over you!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Sb8MCsN/0/L/i-Sb8MCsN-L.jpg)
Eats dual sport bikes for breakfast, what a great time, sitting having beers with other bikers.

It looked more like the local brothel, in fact it was the local brothel.  We now know because the other rooms next to ours were being used during the night and we were listening to the moans and groans. They were cool to their clients, there were condoms in the corner on the floor, at least safe sex was promoted. We decided to pitch our inner part of the tent outside the room and rather sleep in the tent.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-z5wkh97/0/L/i-z5wkh97-L.jpg)
Biker, policeman, general do gooder and all round nice guy

We were happy to be in Ethiopia. Elsebie did really well with this entire Turkana stretch and I am super proud and impress with her for keeping up with a loaded bike on a stretch that count as a proper ride in any competent rider’s book.

We met Uncle, the resident 3 year old baboon and had local Injera for supper.  All in all it was a good party with the locals and good to be in Ethiopia.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fPTmFRd/0/L/i-fPTmFRd-L.jpg)
Yes, it looks like kots in a dirty face cloth. It does not taste any better.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on September 19, 2012, 10:02:58 pm
Gooi nog please this is excelent stuff  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Brakenjan on September 20, 2012, 02:37:00 pm
Gillende bliksem!!!  :o What a ride?!?!

Els is my nuwe hero - klaar!!!!!!  :headbang:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on September 21, 2012, 10:06:01 am
Awesome! Ethiopia lyk vir my baie anders as die res?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on October 07, 2012, 09:05:58 pm
Gr8 RR!  :laughing4: :laughing4:

I have just been to yhe Danakil Depression in Kenya Michnus, wonder if you went there? Kak warm :deal:

I got used to the injerra an developed a taste for it!!

Post, we want to see r
The rest!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Major Tom on October 07, 2012, 10:25:35 pm
This has been GREAT reading.  Well done and thanks for sharing.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: dassie on October 10, 2012, 06:25:38 pm
Please don't tell me its the end of the ride report.  :violent1:
Loooveee the RR, you guys are the legends  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: dassie on October 13, 2012, 02:34:41 pm
since the threat has been moved there are no updates  :pot: Wat gaan hier aan
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on October 13, 2012, 05:13:30 pm
since the threat has been moved there are no updates  :pot: Wat gaan hier aan


I wonder aswell  :patch:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on October 15, 2012, 11:25:21 am
Die bliksem is seker iewers in donker Afrika sonder internet om ons mee jaloers te maak.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on October 15, 2012, 02:15:54 pm
Die bliksem is seker iewers in donker Afrika sonder internet om ons mee jaloers te maak.

Hy speel 'hard to get' met daai lang vlegsels :imaposer:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: dassie on October 15, 2012, 06:55:42 pm
ai jaaaai jaaai, ping Michnus, do we have to come and look for you in dark afrika, to hear the full story. :drif:
Not fair now. So far it was adictive  :happy1:
maybe he likes to torture his fellow dogs..... :eek7:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on October 15, 2012, 07:08:23 pm
ai jaaaai jaaai, ping Michnus, do we have to come and look for you in dark afrika, to hear the full story. :drif:
Not fair now. So far it was adictive  :happy1:
maybe he likes to torture his fellow dogs..... :eek7:

Pos iets van n 'age restriction' dan sal hy vinnig uit sy gat kruip :imaposer:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on October 15, 2012, 08:34:15 pm
Is it just me or is theresome connection here  :mwink:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Metaljockey on October 16, 2012, 07:18:18 am
Die bliksem is seker iewers in donker Afrika sonder internet om ons mee jaloers te maak.

Jip, hy hang tans met die Muslim Brotherhood in Egipte.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: zetman on October 16, 2012, 11:02:48 pm
Hy sal sy blog meer gereeld update terwyl hulle toer gan loer gerus

pikipiki.co.za
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 25, 2013, 12:22:34 pm
We were in heated negotiations with black market petrol suppliers trying our utmost best to obtain a few liters of petrol to get us to Addis. The town of Arba Minch half way between Omerate where we crossed the border from Kenya and Addis was engulf in dry sweltering mid-day heat.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bXJDpbH/0/L/i-bXJDpbH-L.jpg)
Omarate to Addis Ababa
The voices around us were getting louder and more stressed, there are 30 people around us all pushing and shoving for the best seat in the house, this is their modus operandi of confusing and scaring. The men put a 20L yellow fuel drum in front of me and with confidence declared there is 20L in the drum.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sMCHcBw/0/L/i-sMCHcBw-L.jpg)
Getting shafted for petrol

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KFBKBCX/0/L/i-KFBKBCX-L.jpg)

One look into the container and it was evident there were only around 15L but not a hell 20L in there. We were warned by many a traveler about these tactics in Ethiopia. Theres many shrewd business people bordering on scoundrels, over charging to make a fast buck is how things roll in Ethiopia, you have to think on your feet or you will be less your underwear and socks.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DKM5kVH/0/M/i-DKM5kVH-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8dpNnVN/0/L/i-8dpNnVN-L.jpg)
Filling station corner shop, Spar, DIY shop, Bank, Forex exchange.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XhLP8vF/0/L/i-XhLP8vF-L.jpg)
Main road out of Turmi, this is a one horseman town and the horse died

One man closed up the opening of the container with his hand every time I pour petrol over into our containers to filter the petrol before filling our bikes. I see the plan, and ask them for a smaller measured container.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZTTpnDq/0/L/i-ZTTpnDq-L.jpg)

They gave me a 5L Mobil oil container with markings on the side. I get three fills out of the yellow petrol container and tell the men I cannot pay for 20L there was clearly only 15L of petrol in the container.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CmL9Lpj/0/L/i-CmL9Lpj-L.jpg)
Elsebie laughed herself silly, I gun it through the river bed, all is going well the next moment I am flying forward over the bars and my bike stays behind like I hit a brick wall. I rode straight into this Milktart consistency mud hole.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-H2kr9hJ/0/L/i-H2kr9hJ-L.jpg)
Riverbeds double for roads, the black dot in the distance is me.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jTCBNtv/0/L/i-jTCBNtv-L.jpg)
Bulk water supply Ethiopia style

“But sir you know petrol evaporate quite quickly in the sun?” Ye, right, I might look like a retard but do not take me for one, I will respect you, but you need to return the favor for us to do a deal.

The negotiations are getting louder and fierce, we stay calm and I take out the amount of money I need to pay for 15L. They are insulted they tell me. Hell, that just sucks, I am so sorry you feel that way but have to leave. You can decide to keep on arguing with yourself or take the money.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QNLTx2D/0/L/i-QNLTx2D-L.jpg)
The Ethiopians are quite good at building houses from sticks and mud that will also last for years.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sgJ25hs/0/L/i-sgJ25hs-L.jpg)
Bridges get made from whatever is available.

Days before when we entered at Omarate we only had the fuel left from where we filled in Kenya. We were lucky to find a little bit in Turmi and that is where the locals informed us that there is a huge fuel shortage in Ethiopia.

We just did not realize how big the problem were until we got to Arba Minch, which is a relative large city in Ethiopia and should have had petrol.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WksCfBN/0/M/i-WksCfBN-M.jpg)
Onions part of Ethiopians staple food.

.......................................................




Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on February 25, 2013, 01:12:54 pm
yeeha! Welcome back Mich!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: chickenbadger on February 25, 2013, 06:43:46 pm
yeeha! Welcome back Mich!

+1000
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 26, 2013, 11:13:53 am
yeeha! Welcome back Mich!

+1000

thanks boys.  :thumleft:

Got so much to tell and show on the new travels but it will come.  ;)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 26, 2013, 11:45:45 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-s6xkL5J/0/L/i-s6xkL5J-L.jpg)
Many roads are powder puff stuff and it get into everything.

The lower south-West Omo region of Ethiopia exhibits much the same fauna and flora as the bushveld in South Africa. Lush thorn trees overgrown bush runs kilometres over hills and through valleys.

Its home to the Omo tribes and Hummer people. We decided against visiting them, tourism have long time ago turned this into a play act as Linda described in her post.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hxQDcDf/0/L/i-hxQDcDf-L.jpg)
Another day another puncture. At least it was the front tyre and we got going in 5min. Fixing punctures in 40′ heat is no fun. This is where we realised the Heidie's start to tear once they have a puncture hole.

This after all the excitement, we were relaxing sipping on fresh squeezed lemon and mango fruit juice on the veranda of the hotel overlooking Arba Minch, lake Abya and Lake Chamo.

Hotel rates in Ethiopia are so low we can stay for less than camp, its on average R100 for a room. In any case, we had to book into a hotel to wash our clothes. Still full of mud and sand from crossing into Ethiopia and by now the sand stuck in our pants were busy rubbing the skin off our kneecaps.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3x9mcDw/0/L/i-3x9mcDw-L.jpg)

The service in the hotel is great and the food quite tasty. We just could not get enough of the coffee. Both of us are coffee addicts and Ethiopia is where coffee started hundreds of years ago. Coffee cost R2.5 a cup, it is an espresso style with sugar but not as bitter as Italian coffee.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7wjJZzf/0/L/i-7wjJZzf-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4F5GNHn/0/L/i-4F5GNHn-L.jpg)
Road side bar. It's a very welcome oasis after 45degree heat through the Omo valley. Beers and cold water!!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5P2Kq78/0/L/i-5P2Kq78-L.jpg)
Faark I love this!!  :ricky: :biggrin:

Fruit juice are fresh here, not the water downed stuff we get in South Africa. Fruits are freshly squeeze, nothing else added, you can even get an Avocado drink, well you have to eat it, as it is not drinkable.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vXQ8qxD/0/L/i-vXQ8qxD-L.jpg)
Abar Minch the town next to the lakes.

We had to stay over another day in Arba Minch due to the fuel shortage while the friendly WesternUnion bank official drove around trying to beg some petrol for us at black market vendors and filling stations. All the small Tuk-Tuk taxi’s use petrol and since there is a shortage tourist are ripped for all they have.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BWkVF52/0/L/i-BWkVF52-L.jpg)
What's better than a beer? Nothing!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 26, 2013, 01:06:34 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qb8gwd2/0/L/i-qb8gwd2-L.jpg)
Hotel Abar Minch. Good food, and water to wash our really dirty riding clothes for the first time in more than a week, after the muddy river crossings.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ft7F4jm/0/L/i-ft7F4jm-L.jpg)
Late afternoon drinks on the terrace over looking the lakes

We got a sms from Martijn and Wibien with their 1972 VW they made it to Addis, and also StGeorge offer us his blessings for cold beers. It was wonderful news to know they made it to Addis with the VW. While we went the Turkana route, they had to follow the same route as Harold and Linda and do the 280km Marsabit dirt road.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8NvtvfM/0/L/i-8NvtvfM-L.jpg)
The place Ewan and Charlie stayed when rushing through Etiopia. We found that out late the evening when the owner came past to ask about our trip. Luck that we had to pull into the place they also stayed

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-g4WRbcg/0/L/i-g4WRbcg-L.jpg)
Our first coffee ceremony, it’s tradition in Ethiopia and you must have popcorn with the coffee

This was a serious concern for the two with the old VW. I tried to convince Martijn to go for it, just take it slow, other non 4×4 vehicles have been traveling that road and made it without damage. Going slow with a car is the way to get to the other side.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9mZJhtC/0/L/i-9mZJhtC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xZKTc8T/0/L/i-xZKTc8T-L.jpg)
Fruit juice in ethiopia is the real deal. No water added, just real fruit juice freshly squeezed. It's thick and Mango and Avo must be eaten with a spoon.

In Isiolo in Kenya he commandeered a truck to take the VW to Marsabit. Not 5min on the road and Martijn and Wibien ordered the man to turn around and offload the VW. The truck operators tied the car on the back of the truck with thin nylon rope and in such a way that would have damaged the VW without doubt.

They soldiered on and got to Marsabit late the afternoon, VW in one piece and their nerves shot, but they made it!

The road up to Addis is in the process of a rebuilt by Chinese contractors and in very bad shape. We made it to Lake Langano and pulled into an Eco lodge that was recommend to us by other bikers. As I was tracking the spirits of Ewan and Charley since Malawi, it was rumoured they also stayed over at this lodge on their Longway down expedition.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZBWR2kx/0/L/i-ZBWR2kx-L.jpg)
Most Ethiopians are dirt poor. A persons perception of poor change when seeing this level of commitment to make a living.

We definitely felt a very strong presence of their spirits, my neck hair stood up, it might have been because it is such an expensive place and not your average travellers hang out. This time we had no feeling of our skills levels increasing, only the size of the wallet reduced. In any case, their spirits did nothing for our riding ability.

It’s dry in Ethiopia and all the roads turn to a fine dust powder. Dusty reddish face and dry mouth with a sticky tongue for the one riding at the back.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HGXk2Vk/0/L/i-HGXk2Vk-L.jpg)

With the spirit and all we rode into Addis at Wim’s Holland house. The old Dutch man with the lovely young Ethiopian wife and only place to stay when in Addis. Martijn and Wibien brought their VW over and Andrew and Tina with their two daughters came to stay there.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3Qb6w3K/0/L/i-3Qb6w3K-L.jpg)

Wim's Holland House and time for many beers and time to relax and kick the shoes off.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on February 26, 2013, 01:11:04 pm
pics of the eth wif plse  >:D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on February 26, 2013, 01:15:34 pm
The wife? Where my wifes belong?

 :peepwall:  :pot:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vMzVwSt/0/L/i-vMzVwSt-L.jpg)



 :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ianb on March 04, 2013, 03:24:46 pm
Hey Michnus keep up the RR we have missed you,All the best. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: See Duiwel on March 06, 2013, 06:49:12 pm
Hel julle het guts!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on March 07, 2013, 01:28:44 pm
Jis, ek's bly jy's terug om weer vir ons aan jou rr te kan werk! Dit hou my gemotiveerd! Moerse dankie :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Rynet on March 07, 2013, 07:24:44 pm
Lekker lekker   :thumleft:  :thumleft:

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The Addis affair.
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2013, 06:49:50 pm
Back to the future! A short piece on the quirky city Addis Ababa

The Ethiopian calendar, is called Ge’ez calendar. In short it means the entire world is in 2011 and they are in 2004. Ethiopian_calendar (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethiopian_calendar)

Addis the capital of Ethiopia is a quirky, eccentric, art Deco and seriously vibrant city. People play, wine and dine at night in the brightly lit centre of town where row upon row of restaurants and shops flow out onto the packed streets.

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The food is hot! It's like eating lava, only coke beer mix work to quench the heat. The cost of this toxic Indian hell hot meal for 4 was only around R20

Even weirder,” some Ethiopians use a 12-hour clock, with one cycle of 1 to 12 from dawn to dusk, and the other cycle from dusk to dawn. Unlike the convention in most countries, the start of the day is dawn, rather than midnight. Thus, 7:00 AM in East Africa Time corresponds to 1:00 in daylight hours in local Ethiopian time. 12:00 noon EAT is 6:00 in daylight hours, and 6:00 PM EAT is 12:00 in local time”

Got confusing at times when they told us to come back 5’clock the bank will open then.source: Time_in_Ethiopia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Time_in_Ethiopia)

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Keep evil spirits away, and prey the 40 year old Lada will one more day as taxi.

My opinion has always been that African cities are best-missed, rural people and small towns are where you will experience and get the feel for the countries people. City people all over the world tend to evolve in the same lines and end up showing the same traits.

Most African cities are a no mercy, blood, sweat and tears fiend where the average person grind away trying to make a living. Not much is on offer other than basic products.

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Addis has an equal number of coffee shops and inhabitants. It is mostly a colourful affair.

Addis on the other hand is in a different universe. Moreover, it is because of this reason I felt the need to write something about this charismatic city that's a bit on the exotic side of life.

In all we had the pleasure of spending nearly 2 weeks in Addis. Not out of will, bikes had to be repaired and other silly stuff.

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Health and safety pfffft, what health and safety?!

Walking around Addis you can be forgiven for thinking you are back in the 1970’s. Old Lada taxis rush around like crackbrained zombies, most are rust buckets and barely drivable.

Nothing works, taxi drivers do not use indicators as they don’t work, no lights and bellowing smoke while they race each other at 50km/h with colourful Rosaries and other amulets swinging around the rear view mirror doing their damdest to protect the drivers.

Not much show of road rage there is a sort of organized chaos as taxis, buses and cars jockey for space in the spaghetti-confused streets. In all Addis function with the 3milj odd inhabitants, or as the locals say, all is well in Abyssinia. Bear in mind there’s 87 odd million people in Ethiopia.

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Expad area new town with it's funny buildings

As the property boom swept across the world, the wagon also passed Ethiopia, today the skeletons of unfinished projects litter the city since they were the last to get onto the bandwagon.

One blessing, Addis is a big happening place and at some stage in the future these buildings will be filled with the chatter of hopeful Ethiopian workers. Currently the Chinese are the winners from supplying the fittings and materials for the building industry.
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Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2013, 07:13:12 pm
It’s the old meet the new, most old buildings and shops have this art deco fittings and style to them, it’s wonderful, we get lost in time. Many new buildings are glass houses and does not seem to really fit into the Addis vibe.

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RED TERROR  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Terror_(Ethiopia) (http://http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Red_Terror_(Ethiopia))

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Open air restaurant behind The Lion of Judah statue, people hang around the entire day under the big tree.

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Many old houses around.

We spend our days exploring the city eating Injera and drinking St George beer from street restaurants. Its dirt cheap, Injera cost R12-00 for a meal for 4, Coffee is around R2.5, and the best we have tasted, beers go for around R4-00. Injera is the national dish and is a yeast-risen flatbread with a unique, slightly spongy texture.

You eat it with your hand breaking off pieces and eating it with the variety of stews and salads dished up with on the Injera.

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Injera, pasta, hot stuff, beers and Coke consumed daily.

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Grilled fish with beer, Wibien demonstrate how it should be done.

The fucking food is so hot it cooks my brain stem. I’ve located a uranium spill. My nose feels like I have been snorting Jay’s fluid, somebody do the Heimlich manoeuvre, please! Everyone knows the routine by now, get me more beer before I ignite. How in God’s name can people devour food this hot is beyond me?

Martijn, Elsebie and Wibien laugh themselves silly, they eat this nuclear waste as if it’s honey. I will stick to pastries, lovely pancakes and girlie foods that are on offer, thank you very much!

Menu's will add a smile to your face every time.
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Sunny sid up with Beacon.

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Hum Burger and Paper steak!? Never had one these. Who ever will eat a vegetable sandwich?

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Calculator chicken?

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Thank you!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2013, 07:21:42 pm
The Ethiopians love eating at restaurants and coffee shops, big espresso coffee machines grace every shop with some patrons sitting around at small tables other having their coffee and pastries at bar tables.

Where they get these machines is a mystery and they are equally competent in fixing them. One interesting drink is called “Sprice”, its half espresso half-strong tea in a small espresso glass with a big scoop of sugar, just stir too you’re liking.

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coffee, with the SS Sink drifting around the cup

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Making new friends in coffee shops. This is Tomoko one of the best know hangout places for locals in Addis. Also one of the oldest and best know for their coffee. It is better than Starbucks or other well known coffees if that is any indication.

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The only and best brand water is Ambro and cost a few rand. Cappuccino is coffee with cacao powder, and Sprice with loads of sugar to raise your changes of turning Diabetic
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2013, 07:39:14 pm
It is said the biggest market in Africa is in Addis, well we had to go have a look. I cannot vouch for the biggest, big for sure, it is a maze of small alleys and shops tightly stacked next to each other. Anything from dead policemen to Banana plant roots are on display in front of shops.

This is re-cycling city, anything and everything is stripped, cut and broken up to be used or sold again. You can get an axe made from an old car suspension blade for R30. I got a man to make us thick leather straps for our soft luggage on the bike as the ones we had been damaged with all the falls and tumbles.

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Street vendors in Addis

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Can't get a credit card into a fat girls butt cheeks, that's how tight the shops are packed in.

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Dog leashes, horse straps, sex whips anything is on offer, well if you want a sex whip it will have to be custom made.

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These guys sit and weld the entire day and their welders glasses are a piece of card-box and a old pair of sunglasses.

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Axe made from old suspension blade of a LDV

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Horse goodies are colourful and well made. Everything is hand made in this place.

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Gym equipment is big business and made from anything that is heavy that they can lay their hands on.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2013, 07:52:50 pm
The cars in Addis had me flabbergasted, I am a petrol-head and to see so many old cars in such good condition running around was like leaving a kid in a toy store.

VW kombi’s are still as common as Toyota pick-ups in SA, there are split windows and split doors versions, and pick-up types and hundreds of spare shops selling anything VW related.

The locals moan, people from all over the world want to buy up these old relics, problem it is not permitted to export cars out of Ethiopia.

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Old Fiat 500 still in good condition                                            Split window Combi

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Syncro double cab pick up?                                                                 Late model lights and double door body, they get mix and match for parts

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Split window pick-up.                                                                       Still flying strong. It might be that the front end have been changed.
Click to see bigger picture

Close to Wim's Holland house we discovered this American diner type restaurant. They make seriously good food, and parties are off the wall.

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Most of the stuff is from the 70's and 80's

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? Wim's Holland house parties.
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2013, 08:12:26 pm
The modus operandi for the days were to go to town. Get whatever parts we need or do whatever paperwork had to be done. Then it is back for repairing and helping each other with trucks, cars or bikes.
At 17h00 work stop, shower and then, St Georges beer, Bitterballen and this went through till close before midnight.

Beef fillet is dirt cheap and we paid something like R30-00 per kilo for fillet. Once the other travellers picked up on "braai" it became a near daily thing. They loved it. And were even more impressed when told it gets better in SA with more choice of meat.

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Chris, the guy with the cast around the foot, is a motorcyclist from Germany. His foot got caught between his pannier and an Ethiopian taxi and his foot burst in his MX boot. As if not enough he had to pay the taxi driver, who by the way was in the wrong, compensation and had to pay to get his bike back from the police.
Termo is the man in the back ground. His on a 5 year tour around the world with his Ford panel van.


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This is St Geroges beer. The best beer in Ethiopia, and actually a very good tasting beer at that. But it makes you do stupid things.  :lol8:

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Georg and Emma, Austrians worked in Yemen, then in Ethiopia and now in Jordan.

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Addis is not for the average traveler that’s looking for the brand name city experience, this is a city with a soul it offer a unique angle to city tourism and will appeal to no-nonsense travelers.
I can honestly say for once we enjoyed a city and this offbeat place is truly in a different league!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Karoo Rider on April 07, 2013, 10:24:26 pm
Wow. What an unbelievable journey.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on April 08, 2013, 09:03:53 am
still reading with great interest  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Operator on April 08, 2013, 09:30:53 am
Lekker om te lees Mich........................hou aan.................ons wag vir die volgende aflewering.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Pietcoke on April 08, 2013, 10:44:08 am
Net gou die ketel aansit.............hier is weer 'n nuwe "installment" :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 08, 2013, 02:40:47 pm
Thanks manne.  :thumleft:

Just a quick one. Is the images a problem?

I have to list from Smugmug since our own software on WD's have not been moved to the new platform where I can upload to the site directly.
I know some people can not view Smugmug at work because it is a image hosting site.
But to load pictures 10 per post at the bottom of each post is kak at best and I would rather not post than do it that shitty way. It will make not give the story the feel and look that is needed.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: zetman on April 08, 2013, 02:50:32 pm
GOOI Mielies kan peekchaa's sien ja....wanneer update jy weer  piki-piki ???  :spitcoffee:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: cloudgazer on April 08, 2013, 03:38:01 pm
keep it coming, keep it coming.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 08, 2013, 03:42:38 pm
GOOI Mielies kan peekchaa's sien ja....wanneer update jy weer  piki-piki ???  :spitcoffee:

vandag  :deal: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Man On Fire! on April 08, 2013, 03:47:33 pm
read this today from start to finish...well hopefully not finished!?? i want to read more. will be on the iPad later making sure i catch the next episode.

What a fantastic RR. one of the best i have read so far! i am full of admiration for you guys.  the book title should be ..."beers of Africa"

 :sip:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 08, 2013, 04:23:45 pm
Quote
the book title should be ..."beers of Africa"
Not a bad idea  :thumleft:

Nope it is not finished, the blog was short entry, I add more pictures to these post, which were not possible at the time.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: GSLaaitie on April 11, 2013, 01:50:25 pm
Weereens moerse dankie, Michnus.

Pics werk perfek, dankie. Ek't anyways net toegang tot WD van 13:00 - 14:00 en dan is als unblock, so ek kan mooi sien. :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gérrard on April 13, 2013, 12:07:05 pm
Dis nou regtig 'n mooi RR  >:D
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Mr Zog on April 14, 2013, 05:53:07 pm
I completely agree with the coffee being the best  :thumleft:

I could never get enough "Traditional Coffee" in Addis.

The Injira and Tibs also had me on fire. Twice for each meal. But damn it was good!

And partying at the local taverns was a blast. The Ethiopian women are seriously good looking  :drif:

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on April 17, 2013, 10:11:17 pm
Dis nou regtig 'n mooi RR  >:D
Thanks Jup  :biggrin:

Mr Zog, and we got it on some week or what what they had no meat only fasting food. Then it's it's hot and taste like shit  :patch: :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: dassie on April 25, 2013, 09:54:09 am
Hey Michnus. So freaking glad you are continuing the review, it is really stuff from legends quality. The pictures work great. Also the type off stuff that you post add to the soal of the review. Its really top quality.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 15, 2013, 09:11:44 pm
This was the second time we were trying to get away from Addis but the VW stuttered to a halt 60 kilometres outside of the city. Addis was holding us back not letting us go from her spell and with some luck also the cold beers! Or maybe just the VW that was full of shit?!

Martijn had a slightly worried smug grin on his face as we push him and the VW up the hill to a monastery. The 1972 VW just gave a huff and a puff going up a hill and stopped dead in its tracks like a tired Ethiopian donkey.
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Green route Lalibela loop

It all started days before while savouring some cold StGeorge beers and Bitterballen with newly arrived vagabonds in the shady courtyard of Wim’s Holland house in Addis Ababa.

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VW only made it 60km out of Addis

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Ethiopian powered VW

……..but let me first take you back a bit … The initial duration for our trip we planned was 6 months, well, that was the time we could afford to steal to get from SA to Europe. As we toured up into Africa it slowly but surely dawned on us that rushing a trip like this would be the biggest mistake we could make.
We met many well-seasoned travellers who gave advice and routes and listening to their advice, it was clear as day we would rob ourselves of a monumental awe-inspiring experience and miss the true aromas and tastes of Africa. Heading for Uganda we finally decided to gear back to first and put the trip on a slow cruise.

Our six months would be nearly over by the time we reach Ethiopia. The trip was the start of an on-going project, we do not HAVE to make Europe.

Objective -to take it easy, relish the local experience and cuisine and just take in the sight and sounds of Ethiopia with its groovy eccentric people.
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Did not work on these engines for ages, luckily spares is readily available in Ethiopia.

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View over the Blue Nile. Click to enlarge.

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At least some warning signs heading down into the Nile. Google translate clearly need some more work

The bikes would stay wherever our time run out and wait until the next year when we can go back and continue, hopefully around the world. The plan for the time we had left in Ethiopia was to travel with Martijn and Wibien to Lake Tana and Lalibela. From there we would head back to Addis, store our bikes and fly back home. The VW with Martijn and Wibien will go on to Sudan.

Instead we found ourselves enervated filled to the brim with Addis petrol, sitting in the grounds of a monastery with the carburettor of the VW in pieces spread all over my ground sheet trying to figure out how this ‘Gynaecologist’ could fix this girl.

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Puncture number 7 since we arrived in Ethiopia. This country would eventually total the record for punctures for us.
Our first thoughts were to arrange to sleep over as it was already late afternoon, but after lots of fluttering hand signals, rapid eye movements and broken English, which achieved fuck all, the agelast monsignor demanded 5-star money from us to camp, without any water or facilities in his monastery grounds.

No Samaritans or Philanthropist on this holy ground. By that time I figured out the carburettor needle was not working properly and stuck open thus flooding the carburettor it was late in the afternoon. With the best fix-all tool in the world, a hammer, I gave it a quick whack and off we went back to Wim’s Holland safe house.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 15, 2013, 10:16:42 pm
The next day a local VW mechanic tried a cheap fix and off we went again waving to Wim and his wife, they return the wave and with huge smirks knowing we will be back.

“The record of travellers leaving and coming back is 5 times see if you can beat that!”, they scream at us as we set off.

Fuck! Addis and Wim’ spell was still with us and 60km out of Addis the VW said no more quick cheap fixes!

It must be the StGeorge beers or Voodoo. Back to Addis, this time we went and bought a proper brand new pirated part. In Ethiopia, there still are a huge following of VW aficionados. Parts are still readily available and in plentiful supply for any VW irrespective of age. Thick dust layered genuine pirate parts presented in the original boxes.

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Kids always curious and eager to have their photos taken.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7bNSz43/0/L/DSCN0995-1-L.jpg)
I see dead people.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fBmK757/0/L/SDC14150a-L.jpg)
Getting fuel was a constant struggle. For some reason at the time Ethiopia had a shortage of fuel and we had to kick and bite petrol jockeys to get more than 5 liters at a time.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fj78ZDT/0/L/DSCN0970-1-L.jpg)
Spices are a big part of Ethiopian informal business.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Pgjn9sN/0/L/ethiopia%20loop-1-4-L.jpg)
Lake Tana. Fisherman still use Papyrus boats for fishing

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DhRZqpZ/0/L/ethiopia%20loop-1-5-L.jpg)

On our way to Lake Tana, the tortuous road meander through the most amazing and beautiful gorge forming part of the Blue Nile. The small towns we passed en route were alive with vocal rowdy locals happily buzzing away with their daily routines and friendly waves.

Every now and then, we hear the now familiar screams “gimme money gimme money”. That is the curse of the failed Western Aid programs and non-sensible travellers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BTTSnxH/0/M/ethiopia%20loop-1-6-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-36mcfRQ/0/M/ethiopia%20loop-1-7-M.jpg)
                                                 Go double barrel!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5xNw8ht/0/L/ethiopia-1-40-L.jpg)
They claim this monestry on an island in Lake Tana is close to 700 years old. It is well maintained and still used as a monastery.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-J2p73wq/0/L/ethiopia-1-41-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PXBNsVR/0/L/ethiopia%20loop-1-8-L.jpg)
This ferry must date back to ancient times. It must be a safety inspectors biggest nightmare.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: the_BOBNOB on July 15, 2013, 10:47:16 pm
nice going michnus

everytime i read this thread i just want go for a long long long ride
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 15, 2013, 10:56:39 pm
Reaching the other side of the Blue Nile we booked into a small hotel called Selom. The going rate per room was an extravagant 5USD per night! Well I suppose you get what you pay for. The powder house were outside next to the hotel, with a long drop in a makeshift shack cladded with old corrugated iron sheets. The stench of old urine hang thick in the air and newspaper pieces to wipe the bum packed away into one corner.

That night we lay on the bed in our underwear with wet cloths to wipe away the sweat listening to the cacophony from people going their merry way and the local hotel music box bewailing local fusion at full bore.

It was quite amusing to listen to the locals loudly groaning and cheering as the electricity went off and came back on again, repeatedly. The entire town made it known that they were not at all happy with the situation.

We could not help to laugh, the people were very vocal about their lot. An hour later, the electricity came back on which elicit screams of elation and jubilation that echoed through the streets. It sounded like a new year’s party at 12h00 in Rio’s streets.

Life as we know it takes on a new meaning when something so basic can set the mood in such a drastic way for an entire town. Ethiopia is poor but the resilient people have dignity and go about their lives with ease and hope.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JPJWBZb/0/L/DSCN0863-1-L.jpg)
Punctures was par of the course. Anything that has wheels use the tar roads and shedding parts and nails and anything else that was suppose to secure parts to the vehicles just lie and wait to puncture wheels.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rJLvkKN/0/L/DSCN1014-1-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zzcNqvB/0/L/ethiopia-1-37-L.jpg)
Climbing to 4000 meters the views are jaw drop beautiful. Pity my camera skills can not capture it.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3dBBtPk/0/M/DSCN1003-1-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tkr47gc/0/M/ethiopia-1-39-M.jpg)
Having lunch at road side restaurants is always lucky packet surprise affair. There's almost always some funny named dish and something new. Eating at these places are cheap and normally the food are not too bad.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-r9gGFmQ/0/L/ethiopia-1-38-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 15, 2013, 10:57:40 pm
nice going michnus

everytime i read this thread i just want go for a long long long ride

me too.  :ricky: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on July 16, 2013, 06:09:52 am
once again  :sip:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: RobC on July 16, 2013, 09:09:31 am
260 days accrued leave... what to do, what to do. Sigh... :-[


This RR makes me even more determined to finish up next year... :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: MrBig on July 16, 2013, 09:22:10 am
nice going michnus

everytime i read this thread i just want go for a long long long ride

+ gazillion
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Offshore on July 16, 2013, 10:48:05 am
What a RR.  :thumleft: :ricky:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 16, 2013, 11:18:54 am
Situated northwest of Addis Ababa, Lake Tana is the claimed source of the Blue Nile. There are a few very old churches and monasteries on the islands just of the shores of Bhir Darr. These monasteries are cobweb covered old structures. Some monsignors still paddle to the mainland on self-made Papyrus boats.

Visiting the monasteries were a disappointing affair. The monasteries have been renovated and new age paintings added depicting scenes with AK47’s. As far as I recall they were not available 500 years ago. There is a strong jumentous smell that fills your nostrils as you enter these monasteries.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Wpp2HFG/0/XL/SDC14267aa-XL.jpg)
Another day another puncture, think this was number 12. The small compressors also have a limited life of about 30 tyre pumps then the seals start to go and dirt get into the piston seals.

Kids always eager for a photo and the best to see them laugh when they see themselves on the camera screen.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7Q7wS8w/0/XL/DSCN1011-1-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MRLRQWZ/0/XL/SDC14255a-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nxF9zkc/0/XL/SDC14264a-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mm37GHt/0/XL/SDC14266a-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 16, 2013, 12:00:15 pm
Bahir Darr on the shores of Lake Tana is a picturesque little town and tourism is slowly shaping it into an oasis for travellers. The market was worth seeing and there were lots of local art on display for dirt-cheap.

The small shops are packed with everything from eggs to fresh bread rolls and espresso coffee machines that date back to the Italian invasion, or so they look, buy at own peril.

Petrol was still one of our biggest headaches, and if you do get fuel, it was dirty. All the old stories of Gadafi and the USA were to blame for the shortage. We would pull into a petrol station and start harassing the petrol attendant for petrol that they pretend not to have.

With an unconcerned malevolence attitude, they would deny having fuel, they do have, they just did not want to sell it to us, and they want us to buy it from their friends on the ‘black market’. Luckily, we filled up all the empty cans and everything else empty we could lay our hands on, in Addis. We had enough to get us back to Addis

The landscape in Ethiopia are really stunning and not at all the images I had of drought, famine and dying people.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rPpfffg/0/XL/ethiopia-1-43-XL.jpg)


This is biking road heaven! Winding dirt roads snake through the landscape.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3TxQCRH/0/XL/ethiopia-1-44-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 16, 2013, 12:12:53 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RJwtvxB/0/XL/ethiopia-1-31%20%281204%20x%20778%29-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pSJhXJp/0/XL/ethiopia-1-32%20%281204%20x%20903%29-XL.jpg)
Fakit! Yes I agree fakit!

Lalibela, the town of stone churches carved into massive bedrock hills awaited us. The ride there was through the most amazing jaw-drop Mountains. The road climbs from 1000m odd to over 4500m altitude.

It is difficult to comprehend the astronomical size of the countryside it plays havoc with your mind, vertigo sets in staring down into to the valley floor.

Taking in the galactic size panoramas are soul stirring stuff. Mountains flow over into more mountains in the background, ocean size wide dry rivers snake through the mountains as far as the eye can see.

The gargantuan effort from enduring revellers and their absolute belief in their faith hundreds of years ago to persist and dug out churches from solid rock is beyond comprehension. There is an eerie divine feeling when walking around the churches with revellers praying and meditating, it is a mysterious ghostly aura drifting in the air.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DtMMg3M/0/XL/lalibela%20church-1-2%20%281932%20x%201606%29-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gFVNJCq/0/XL/ethiopia-1-10-XL.jpg)
Carved out of rock around 700 years ago. What de hell they used for tools and how they got it level only they know. Conspiracy theorist can go the Alien route on how it was done. But that this is impressive is no doubt.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NgTNG8s/0/XL/ethiopia-1-25-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QtSRDSw/0/L/lalibela%202-1%20%283082%20x%201356%29-L.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QtSRDSw/0/2X/lalibela%202-1%20%283082%20x%201356%29-2X.jpg)
click to open
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 16, 2013, 04:09:03 pm
The best Honey wine we consumed at Torpedo Tej bar in copious amounts and at our own peril. This yellow honey watery drink was a dangerous concoction of toxic waste. There are different strength brews to choose from but best to try them all.

It was fermented in big blew 40L drums with sugar and some other dodgy special secret ingredients. The sour ferment smell hit your nostrils with a vigorous vengeance, it is difficult at first to get use to the taste and smell, but the wonderful thing is the more you consume of this brew the more palatable it becomes. Well, a huge headache is part of this drink.

When in Lalibela this is the bar sign to look for:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hDJKFmH/0/XL/ethiopia-1-6-XL.jpg)

This is what your face will look like when you first state the brew:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VLf6s85/0/XL/ethiopia-1-XL.jpg)

This is the line up from weak honey wine to the moer-this-is-toxic waste 100%unleaded stuff.  
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MPg9jjn/0/XL/ethiopia-1-45-XL.jpg)

You get to sit on these seat so you can hold on and not bliksem over from the alcohol:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-krvpSVs/0/XL/ethiopia-1-7-XL.jpg)

Then this is what you look like when the wheels come off:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6qZnjBc/0/XL/ethiopia-1-3-XL.jpg)

Make you do stupid stuff. :lol8:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Kp7qMW7/0/XL/ethiopia-1-8-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZRL3R8P/0/XL/ethiopia-1-46-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 16, 2013, 04:35:07 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Br4D4N3/0/L/ethiopia-1-5-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VHT29vK/0/M/ethiopia-1-4-M.jpg)

let me just make this clear, a shower is man standing on a platform pouring water over you from a drum.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-M6WP4Zf/0/L/ethiopia%20loop-1-15-L.jpg)

Moenie agter die bossie loop kakkie die ou mense gaan daarin trap!!
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2vP9rh9/0/XL/ethiopia-1-47-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tjXX6gN/0/L/ethiopia-1-48-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on July 16, 2013, 09:02:58 pm
Gooi  :deal: stunning more please  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Fred4stroke on July 17, 2013, 10:14:11 am
Lekker julle!

Kannie wag vir nog nie!!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: madmax on July 17, 2013, 10:57:17 am
sub so i can read later
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 17, 2013, 06:07:51 pm
The seventeen odd churches are all close by and easily visited in two days if that excites you. The worst were the hideous monstrosities that UNESCO constructed over the churches to protect them.

Whoever the architect was must have been on some acid trip, the structures look like alien spaceships in this town, it does not flow and fit into the existing feel of Lalibela.
I see an old woman in yellow attire making slow forward and backward movements in deep prayer, she is getting on in years and she has torn so many pages off the calendar that her recent history is a blur. Her heart is pristine, peaceful offering wideness of sight and soul.

We spend a week strolling around Lalibela, socialising with the locals and having dinner with an extrovert loud Gameranger working for the Brown Ethiopia wolf foundation.

Much time was spent listening to a mix fusion of local and Reggae music with lots of coffee and beers at colourful eateries that is dotted alongside the cobblestone roads.

Market day every Saturday.
It is a busy noisy place, hot as hell and smell of animal piss and old sweat.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DCnm4HP/0/XL/ethiopia%20loop-1-12-XL.jpg)
Better be fast or you will be a leg short

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-92s7pcT/0/XL/ethiopia-1-50-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lz8Zjg9/0/XL/ethiopia-1-49-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7DnjFSJ/0/XL/ethiopia-1-51-XL.jpg)

Everybody selling the same stuff at the same price.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KqwmLGv/0/XL/ethiopia%20loop-1-13-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 17, 2013, 06:26:29 pm
For a conservative religious nation like Ethiopia and especially Lalibela this is porn :lol8:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dTbvc4J/0/XL/DSCN1072-1-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dmBvtsL/0/XL/DSCN1061-1-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tzNdnDh/0/XL/DSCN1056-1-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 17, 2013, 06:58:42 pm
Restaurant toilets. Pit toilets build on a platform so they can use the decomposed later as fertilizer.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vbPbKN6/0/XL/ethiopia%20loop-1-16-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jVGdh8q/0/XL/ethiopia-1-9-XL.jpg)

The entire place is build on rock and they can not dig graves to lay the dead to rest. Therefore most graves are builded up small structures like this. Placed all over the place.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6JNhNJs/0/XL/ethiopia%20loop-1-9-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LbvmFKG/0/XL/ethiopia%20loop-1-10-XL.jpg)

You will pay for electricity does not matter what you call a home.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JD5v3bv/0/XL/ethiopia%20loop-1-14-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: StuartC on July 17, 2013, 08:34:54 pm
What an awsome adventure,,, jealous !!!!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on July 17, 2013, 09:17:48 pm
What an awsome adventure,,, jealous !!!!!


Same  :deal:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 04:08:01 pm
Conspiracy theorist will be all flustered when seeing this. Did nazi start 700 years ago? How did Hitler got this sign?  8) :biggrin:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-M93QGTs/0/L/i-M93QGTs-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-532t2XM/0/L/i-532t2XM-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dw6Z3Zs/0/L/i-dw6Z3Zs-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VbPc7Md/0/L/i-VbPc7Md-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on July 30, 2013, 04:14:16 pm
It's an ancient symbol meaning zen or something, hijacked by hitler  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 04:19:33 pm
The inside of the rock churches are stunning precision carvings. Impossible to imagine this was carved all from a single rock more than 500 years ago with really primitive tools. Church elders sit around the entire day praying and do whatever else they do. 

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9pPn9M4/0/L/i-9pPn9M4-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Qpfm4LC/0/L/i-Qpfm4LC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nDkVhJW/0/L/i-nDkVhJW-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Jw2Hwns/0/L/i-Jw2Hwns-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2K5pbkR/0/L/i-2K5pbkR-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 04:28:38 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ncvQwrV/0/L/i-ncvQwrV-L.jpg)

Some of the churches are shaded and protected by enormous ugly structures that does not lend any aesthetics  to the surroundings.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-spfc738/0/L/i-spfc738-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3S2xWVW/0/L/i-3S2xWVW-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-c2D7Dsj/0/L/i-c2D7Dsj-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: cloudgazer on July 30, 2013, 05:07:20 pm
One of my dreams to visit Lalibela.

Why do rock churches need to be protected from the sun?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: the_BOBNOB on July 30, 2013, 05:14:19 pm
One of my dreams to visit Lalibela.

Why do rock churches need to be protected from the sun?


preservation from acid rain, etc etc etc
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 05:19:12 pm
One of my dreams to visit Lalibela.

Why do rock churches need to be protected from the sun?


preservation from acid rain, etc etc etc

Got no idea, not as if they get massive amounts of rain. Protection from the elements say Unesco (http://whc.unesco.org/en/list/18) :lol8:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 05:24:49 pm
Some are open and not protected by these hideous structures.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8CxtJrC/0/L/i-8CxtJrC-L.jpg)

Discussing very important local issues issues with locals on the shortage of beer establishments in Lalibela.  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QRkbRRf/0/L/i-QRkbRRf-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 05:34:33 pm
Time to leave. We had a good few days and time in Lalibela. The last night our host made us a chicken stew with Njera. The feathers and skin was quickly and unceremoniously ripped off with one hard tug.

Our dinner was cooked in the small stuffy kitchen. The chicken is as tough as any other we had in Africa.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6rqPRF8/1/M/i-6rqPRF8-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JfKjhpJ/1/M/i-JfKjhpJ-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MxtP4zK/0/L/i-MxtP4zK-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ht4TmG7/0/L/i-ht4TmG7-L.jpg)

Bike get it's Ethiopia tattoo done by a local artist.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9CFXwRr/0/L/i-9CFXwRr-L.jpg)

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 05:39:21 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MqxScVK/1/L/i-MqxScVK-L.jpg)

Till next time lalibela.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Fh7M9Xk/0/L/i-Fh7M9Xk-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 30, 2013, 05:57:02 pm
En route to Addis we had to say goodbye to Martijn, Wibien and the brave 72’ VW Chuck Norris pick-up. This is what makes a trip like this memorable and the forging new friendship.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-skvkLwM/0/L/i-skvkLwM-L.jpg)

The luck and spirit of St George smiled on us again as we rode into Wim’s place with a local beer in the hand the welcoming committee waving us in. That Saturday evening they were going to have a wild Reggae live band playing at Wim’s!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zhN88mJ/0/L/i-zhN88mJ-L.jpg)
Lunch at roadside stop. Bread and Coke

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ss8PpGh/0/L/i-ss8PpGh-L.jpg)
Side stand of the bike could not handle pushing the bead of a rim one more time. I must have used it around 25 times now and it is just too much for the stand attachment. Another lesson learned, a sidestand is not designed to take a bead off a rim multiple times. On our way back to Addis before we said goodbye to the Dutchies we were able to use the VW to push the bead off the rim.


Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 31, 2013, 01:19:07 pm
This is what is left in a coffee paper filter after filling up with Ethiopia petrol. This eventually was part of the reason we had to import a new petrol pump for one of the Dakar's.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Mtwq3p7/0/M/i-Mtwq3p7-M.jpg)

It was rather sad when I pushed the two dirty bikes into the room that Wim had opened for them to have their well deserved rest.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-v6vmQJw/0/M/i-v6vmQJw-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3sb4swF/0/M/i-3sb4swF-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CPZSFbh/0/M/i-CPZSFbh-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hG9Cqxf/0/M/i-hG9Cqxf-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pNmNT7G/0/M/i-pNmNT7G-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7qsGBhK/0/M/i-7qsGBhK-M.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on July 31, 2013, 01:37:46 pm
That evening with our new gypsy friends Bernd, Elke, George and Emma we had one helluva carouse, even the 80-year-old Wim himself joined in.

Whooa baby, what a nice way of ending a 6 month trip!!

During the evening and seeing all the happy smiling faces with the occasional wassail, my friend Nardus’s words came back to me. The missive is so literal I understand it now and feel humbled by it.

-The message is simple and sweet, ‘Just be’! I was truly happy!

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Wim and Rehal the owners of Wim's Holland House in Addis. Super nice people!.
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Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Offshore on August 01, 2013, 03:36:22 pm
 :thumleft:Looks like a lekker Party.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ALLEN I on September 26, 2013, 11:08:50 pm
thanks fore the good RR. took a lot of time reading it and checking out the photos, but was worth it
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 07, 2014, 05:53:54 pm
Back in Addis 2012

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MNR2DFX/0/M/i-MNR2DFX-M.jpg)
Addis also has some Yellow New York look-a-like cabs. This Peugeot 404 is owned by Ato for the last 43 years, it runs like a crab, stutter and has over 400 000km on when the odometer broke, while his dad still used it as a taxi. Or so goes the story.!

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We enjoy our long awaited St George’s beer and bitterballen at Wim’s Holland House. Such a groovy place to come back to. Friendly family.

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Enjoying a traditional coffee ritual with the locals – strong coffee, good conversation and popcorn!

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Working hard under a palm tree, chatting away with an American and abusing a Hollander. Mitt the American giving advice from his truck to Bob the Dutch traveller while I try my best to fix the waterpump on the Dakar.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 07, 2014, 06:10:55 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SqhsZjM/0/L/i-SqhsZjM-L.jpg)
Elsebie helped fixing the bikes - grease monkey hands with a beer is such a turn on for me.   :lol8:

With as much gusto as a kid at Christmas opening presents, I rolled the bikes out of hibernation at Wim’s place. They were dirty, full of cobwebs, tyres flat and looked sad. It was a wonderful feeling to see and feel the bikes again.

Elsebie’s bike looks a bit worse. For some reason the left front fork decided all on its own to start push out all the oil. How the hell this is possible from standing is a mystery. The strange thing is the oil on and around the fork is clear clean oil. The oil inside the fork is dirty black oil.

Besides that, the biggest job awaiting was to replace the waterpump seals, again! I replaced them in Nairobi before we started our trip to Ethiopia and they could not have done 5000km. I am now a self-acclaimed and qualified outdoor tree shade mechanic. All the repairs to date were under trees.

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The great outdoor bush mechanic workshop

Bought more petrol, thinking it was a shortage of petrol. Nope not that!

First, I stripped the petrol pipes and checked for petrol going to the engine, and nothing! What fresh new hell is this? The petrol pump is not working. I swopped it with my bike’s pump and it seems the culprit is the petrol pump that gave up the ghost. In Uganda already the pump stopped working due to the electric wire on the pump vibrating off but it was easily fixed with a new wire.

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New fork seals with hydraulic oil. I could not find fork oil in Addis and had to make do with hydraulic fluid from a 200l drum.

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With very few tools, I had to carve a broom stick to size to hold the inside of the fork in place.

Kurt (Adventurer) our good friend in SA took the time to source us a new fuel pump and it will be with Ethiopian customs next week sometime. Thanks Kurt!

Wim the owner of Wim’s Holland House, where we stay, is helping to go about roughing it through the bureaucratic horseshit with customs to get the part.

There is no fork oil to buy in Addis, the best alternative I were able to source was 10W hydraulic oil (not sure) and with basic tools and a broom stick carved- to-size to fit the inside of the shock to hold the barrel. We were able to fit a new secondhand seal I brought from home for good measure.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 07, 2014, 06:17:25 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BL8pBhg/0/L/i-BL8pBhg-L.jpg)
Poprivets and flat sheet will fix most things. Blood was drawn to fix this bitch.

Another small problem is the Uni-filters I fitted for ease of cleaning and to re-use instead of carrying paper air filters - in the time the bikes were standing it also started to disintegrate. The only solution was to cut sponge from a mattress as a thin liner inside the air filter and use DW40 as foam filter oil. Lets hope it works!

This is now cutting nearly 2 weeks off our trip sitting waiting for parts again. Together, the time we lost last time and now, totals more than a month sitting around waiting for parts for the Dakars.

Look, drinking beers while waiting are a useful past time, but we want to hit the road.

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Very relaxed business dress code in Ethiopia.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BCRNHnM/0/L/i-BCRNHnM-L.jpg)
Orthodox tattoos. Kiss on the crosses.  :lol8:
Everytime Elsebie disappears behind me, I expect the worst, I was struggling to enjoy the trip the last few weeks of our previous leg. My thoughts were constantly consumed with thinking they are going to break at any time and then it will cost us more time and money. Not to mention the amount of money it cost to recover a bike in countries where people see whites, or better “faranj” or “feranj” as cash cows. it’s the term for whites or Westeners and thus the ones with money.

Now I sit with the same. How do I get my confidence back in the bikes and we still have 5000km to go just to get to Cairo? Granted we did not stick to the usual highway racing of travellers between Cape Town and Cairo on asphalt. The bikes had a rough time with the likes of Uganda and Turkana and we used them properly.

This is the nature of the beast. In addition, as mildly irritating as it may be, we knew things would never be plain sailing. The beers are still good, the people we meet up with lends itself the potential to develop into longterm friendships. That all make up for the bit of shit we have to take from the bikes.

I guess, the bikes are just mad at us for leaving them alone for so long. If you think a bike is just a piece of metal with no soul, you will be making a huge mistake. They have feelings and I know now they were not happy about us leaving them to stand there in that small room.

We will find a better hotel for them to stay next time round.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Rynet on January 07, 2014, 06:45:54 pm
 :thumleft: Hope you get the bikes sorted out soonest , and great that you have such good friends to help out . And at least you guys have beer. :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 07, 2014, 06:50:17 pm
Cheers Ethiopia, until we meet again …

We left Addis so excited to be on the bikes again, but halfway to Bahir Dar Michnus realized that the legs of his pants were sprayed with oil …. Both the front fork seals were popping out …

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On our way to Bahir Dar and the other bike's fork seals blow. Both! Tried to clean the dust seal with no luck, well, then just ride it like that.

Never the less, with my bike hiccupping (tired battery) and Michnus’ spitting oil we decided to keep heads up and carry on. Unfortunately, it meant that we had to skip our planned visit to Kim & Tim’s Village close to Gorgora, but we will be back!

Some pictures from Debre Markos where we stayed over for one night:

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The locals enjoying some lazy 'street viewing' in the afternoon.

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Ethiopian serves food in style!

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This was normal practice all over, the management of the hotel let us park our bikes right in front of the hotel entrance and assigned 3 guards to keep an eye!

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Pfffttt disabled what?  :lol8:

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On the way to Gonder, the other finger of God still standing.

Gonder is the last big town before the border of Sudan. Much smaller than Addis Ababa and with a bit of an ‘touristy’ flavour to it. Centuries ago it was the capital of Ethiopia and the cobblestone roads and castles are evidence of this.

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No need for a burail in Ethiopia, the vultures will finish you off in no time. Can save a lot on funeral cost, and they are everywhere.

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A night out on the town gave us a bit of insight into the different classes of people in Ethiopia. Although Ethiopia is a poor country, a lot of people can afford good clothing, taxi rides, cell phones and even a few nights out of town.

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Young Ethiopian girls enjoying St Geoges & Dashen beer with straws! Not sure what the straws are for - maybe to add some zing.

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Last backpackers on our way to the Sudan border.
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Lazy days drinking beers talking shit, sharing travel stories with a German backpacker.

salaam aleikum Sudan!
Title: Sudan, what fresh new hell is this?
Post by: michnus on January 08, 2014, 11:10:57 pm
Sudan is a wonderful surprise; you hear ‘Welcome to Sudan’ and ‘Do you like Sudan?’ everywhere. The food is a blend of Turkish, Western and local dishes. And, for the pastries … we tried it all!

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Sitting at the Sudan border post waiting to get our Carne's stamp. They are waiting for us to pay a bribe. We decided to wait it out. While we crossed the border on no-mans land, we got a puncture.

We arrived at the border post on a Saturday, which overall was maybe not such a good idea. On the Ethiopian side, we had to wait in the hot sun for the Custom officials to finish their loongg extended lunch. This gave a couple of ‘fixers’ enough time to harass us to exchange money and to gossip about the ‘qat-chewing’ officials.

On the Sudanese side, things were a lot more organized and clean. BUT after all the paperwork for our Carnes were done, we waited almost 6 hours for the OFFICIAL MONEY COLLECTOR to release our papers. They filled in all the forms, then proceeded with lunch, then stamped our papers and said “we will be right back, just going to pray” … for SIX HOURS!? Well, this gave us enough time though to use some fellow travellers’ car to do a tube change on my bike.

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Enjoying some pasta, camping in the Customs' Compound. Eventually at 8 o'clock that evening they figured we are not going to pay a bribe and stamped the papers. We then informed them we will be sleeping in their compound.

Sudanese roads and small towns are very different from Ethiopia, for one there are a lot less people and animals on the roads – must be the heat! We did however meet two Italian bikers, doing Milan to CapeTown in a very short time.

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Charlie Boorman as he would look like when old.

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No big tanks like HPN and such poofter poser shit. 5L water bottle and otherwise standard.

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And the owner. No nonsense guys.

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Roadside stops. Between 10 in the morning and 2 in the afternoon everybody takes rest. It is just too damn bloody hot to do anything.

(http://[url=http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZxWVXFz/0/M/i-ZxWVXFz-M.jpg]http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZxWVXFz/0/M/i-ZxWVXFz-M.jpg[/url])
Really friendly inviting people. Taking our rest and colddrinks with the local gathering of men.

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A lot of time are killed by using a very harmless (or 'useless' as per the locals) 'Hubbly Bubbly'

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Sudanese pastries will kick you into being a diabetic, it's that good.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: J-dog on January 09, 2014, 08:13:17 am
keep it coming M. great stuff.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 09, 2014, 08:52:40 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-j4jdXvM/0/L/i-j4jdXvM-L.jpg)
Everywhere families offer water for any passersby.

Yes, yes I know, they are in conflict with South Sudan for oil, and from what the media dish up that must make most of the people of Sudan evil heartless bastards. It cannot be further from the truth.

It took us some time to wrap our minds around the dynamics of this strange weird society. Sudan is a Muslim-run law country, no alcohol or anything that is against the laws of Sharia. Woman are indoors, mostly men are around and can be seen working around towns and on the street.
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Taxi drivers are scoundrels the world over and in Sudan there is no exception. We went to lunch with this Saudi man. On our way back the driver over-charged us and he immediately got a good scrub down by the Saudi man

It is safe to go around Sudan, you can leave your wallet lying around for a week and it will be there when you get back, not so sure about a woman though. Shops leave everything as is when they go to pray, nothing gets locked up. People are the most warm-hearted, inviting people we have ever met. We got invited for meals and drinks where ever we went. They even insist we stay over in their homes.

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Piki-piki loads of them, like in most other African countries this is what drives the local economy in cities and towns.

Whether it is their religion that is the foundation of their good or because they are just honest-to-good people at heart, I am not sure. But in a country where it is desert as far as the eye can see and the heat reaches a scorching 50 degrees just after 11am, it takes a special kind of human to uphold a sense of humor and a smile. There must be a special heaven for Sudanese, they are good honest people living in a hell I would not have been able to endure. The heat and haziness from sand storms everyday will drop the best motivational speaker into depression.

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The sign says it's not allowed to take pictures of the Blue and White Nile coming together. Why not is anyone’s guess, and like many other African countries paranoia is big. Google earth is a spy tool of the West; here it is ladies and gentleman.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-g56PZBt/0/M/i-g56PZBt-M.jpg)
Local bikers' curiosity overcame them and we had a welcome chat about all bike related.
Title: Sudan - a fresh new hell.
Post by: michnus on January 14, 2014, 09:02:10 pm
It is easy to figure out that as with most other countries, Angola as example, are in the same situation, the 5% connected politicians ruining it for the rest of the 95% of the population. The deal for oil could have been settled without the war, no doubt.

I do not want to write about this, but that is part of travel and we will be travelling to countries in future not on the tourist list. The bad comes with the good, which is the reason why I loved Sudan so much. It’s a harsh unforgiving land with a deep rich soul.

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Spot the buildings housing the oil companies. There’s no high rise buildings in Khartoum, except the ones from the oil companies.

There’s one big huge bloody calamitous issue with Sudan, NO BEER! And I am no dipsomaniac, far from it, but drinking Coke, tea and water in 45° heat is acceptable and tolerable for maybe a day. After that your body wants something bitter and cold. With that heat very few fridges were able to cope with the heat. This is not South African mid summer Richtersveld heat. This heat is downright evil. Anything after 11am and people get out of the sun, to take rest.

How in the name of all that is holy, can an entire nation deprive themselves from the healing powers of beer is beyond reason and logic.

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National Camp site Khartoum. Left all our belongings for a week like that with nothing getting ‘legs’.

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Tuk-Tuk’s pimp my ride and blinged to the extreme.

Back to our travel, Elsebie’s bikes battery got worse and it came to a stage where the bike had to start first time round or we had to jump start the bike. We set up camp in Khartoum at the National camp site. It’s not really a camp site, it use to be sports grounds with accommodation converted now into army type housing with grassy patches and shrubs fences. In the back of our camp refugees from the South got trucked in during the night with help from NGO’s.

Unable to source a battery in Khartoum we had a battery couriered to us at an obscene amount. DHL take no prisoners, damn assholes!

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Again the water pump, did I mention I got my masters in bush mechanics?

While ‘tracking down’ a battery for Elsebie’s bike my Dakar’s water pump impeller broke while we were in over 50° heat in the middle of midday traffic. The cotter pin holding the impeller to the shaft decided to disintegrate leaving us stranded 10km away from the camp. We were using only my bike at the time.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fRF3N2m/0/L/i-fRF3N2m-L.jpg)
Alfresco breakfast. Eggs and Nubian flat bread with tea.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 14, 2014, 09:12:11 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wkLT7dN/0/M/i-wkLT7dN-M.jpg)
Frans and Joke build this impressive overlander, they have done most of Africa. And he had beers, it’s worth the 100 lashes per beer!!

Late the afternoon we made it back to camp, wanting nothing else than hard liquor and beers. We “imported” some whiskey which had us smiling about the events. Hey, it’s part of travelling, you get shit at some stage no two ways about it.

We stayed at the National campsite for a week and then moved to Mally my old friend flat near the center of town. He has been working in Sudan for a quite long time. For now we enjoyed the luxuries of aircon and a big room with nice company. The bike parts would took a while to get to us and then customs still had to deal with it.

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Osman, the man that helped us with the bike, invited us again for an meal. It’s hard to say no to him. He is really a very jovial type of guy. Always up with a joke and a laugh. We met up with some of his mates. They range from a Proff in English to a CEO of a very big cigarette company. It did not took us long to talk about the ‘water’ they are not suppose to consume. Low and behold, it seemed the 100 lashes for each beer, is a thorn in their sides but not enough to deter them from enjoying some locally made Date concoction. It’s vile tasting, as bad as Mampoer or Grapa but not as strong and I would have to consume litres of the stuff to drop my inhibitions.

In the end it turned out the middle upper class are much more open minded that I perceived them to be. Even religion were talk about and they are not the hardcore followers they act to be.

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The quite side of the religion. They drink alcohol and generally do not practice what they preach. At least they know how to enjoy themselves.Not far from the same musical talent as Cacofonix in Asterix and Obelix.  ;D

One of our other rules is never to ride at night. It’s just not safe. Well, we broke that rule when we got invited again to dinner. With 35° heat in the evening we putter around with our normal clothes, no bike stuff. It’s just too damn hot.

Now, bear in mind most roads in Sudan are less than 10 years old, yes, oil paid for it. No lines, sand storms leaving a thin layer of sand on the road and road designs can go from four lanes wide pitch black road to two lanes quite easily. Half meter islands in the middle divert traffic in the same direction.

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Our tea lady. They make a very sweet spicy tea.

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Refugees from South Sudan had there home in the same camp as us. They still had smiles and lots to talk about. It is tough to see them, and brings sadness to our hearts.

We got up both looked okay and went on the camp. Once at the camp, we tended to our tar burns. Nothing looked to serious, the only wound that was a bit suspect was just below Elsebie’s knee cap. The size of a R5 coin, it did not look too bad. It was too small for stiches but we could not see how deep it was. The next few days she was a bit sore but the wound looked like it was sort off healing.

And, hell no it’s not because I had some Date water.

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Hotel Mally, 5Star living! We were sad to leave the aircon behind.

Time to hit the road, too much pastries can bring on a bad case of laziness.
Title: 5 fishes from the Nile
Post by: michnus on January 14, 2014, 09:29:14 pm
By ‘good chance’ Michnus’ bike left us cooling it in front of a very small “Coffee Shop” ran by Ethiopian and Sudanese girls. The coffee shop is an old house with all the rooms opening up into a small courtyard, and each room has a couple of couches and low tables for guests.

As we entered, we met Osman sitting contently waiting for his coffee, lovely spiced coffee that he immediately shared with us.
His friendliness extended into translating dishes for us, offering advice, showing us alternative accommodation, his friends’ offices and then took us out for fish …

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Ethiopian/Sudanese combined ‘Coffee Shop’ where we met Osman

We arrived at his friend’ property, adjacent to the White Nile – a half build treasure. The Nile here is beautiful, a bit littered with rubbish, but still a sight. We were introduced to numerous people and after we ‘took some rest’ were invited to see some of the guys fishing.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MLkLfkt/0/L/i-MLkLfkt-L.jpg)
Osman introduced us to some of his friends in the construction business. Always a damn photo taking thing.   :biggrin:

We arrived at his friend’ property, adjacent to the White Nile – a half build treasure. The Nile here is beautiful, a bit littered with rubbish, but still a sight. We were introduced to numerous people and after we ‘took some rest’ were invited to see some of the guys fishing.

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Sunset on the White Nile

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I had to earn my dinner.

And the result:

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Five fishes, caught by a ‘hundred’ men!

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They somehow multiplied.

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The end result was delicious!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on January 14, 2014, 09:37:17 pm
Wow  thanks man  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on January 15, 2014, 03:09:02 pm
Michnus where did you enter from Ethiopia into South Sudan? It seems you have missed the 'South' and the Dinka people which are Christians. They (obviously) do not see eye to eye with the Muslum Sudanese of North Sudan. Remember there is also a bit of grey area between the Noth and South where both North and Southern Sudanese live in harmony. The South Sudanese (which is mainly Dinka people from former African leader George Garang -amazing man but he died in heli crash) are very tall people and very tribal but Very aggressive nature. Even the woman are tall and the men or boys get inituated on a young age and cut in te face and the cary that 'family mark' (couple of scars and looks really visious!) The do not like 'short' people and the (like the Ethiopians) take a lot of care of their teeth by brushing it with a special plant/branch. Pure white healthy teeth. Their capital city is Juba in South Sudan as you enter from Kenya on the trans African Highway (although gravel av verry badly corrigated)

We lived their on the banks of the mighty White nile while demining and UN trying to disarm local citizans.

Love your report, I wonder when it will be moved to the nr1 spot in roll of honor!?

You and your wife have surely lived!

Keep on posting please
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Vlekkie on January 16, 2014, 10:14:14 pm
Hi Michnus
We are planning to do a trip in May to Lake Malawi and may be going through Botswana and Zaire.  I also have a Dakar. Was unleaded fuel ever a problem to obtain?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 16, 2014, 10:43:28 pm
Hi Michnus
We are planning to do a trip in May to Lake Malawi and may be going through Botswana and Zaire.  I also have a Dakar. Was unleaded fuel ever a problem to obtain?

Hi Vlekkie, most places you will get unleaded up to Malawi, in fact most of Africa. But that said, the Dakar's can run on Camel piss very happily. :)
If you use leaded fuel your CAT would just not work anymore but that is absolutely not an issue and would do no harm to the bike. Your Green eco tjommies would not like you any more that's all.  :biggrin:
If you fit an after market exhaust you will remove the CAT with the old one so no worries then in any case.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 16, 2014, 10:56:52 pm
Michnus where did you enter from Ethiopia into South Sudan? It seems you have missed the 'South' and the Dinka people which are Christians. They (obviously) do not see eye to eye with the Muslum Sudanese of North Sudan. Remember there is also a bit of grey area between the Noth and South where both North and Southern Sudanese live in harmony. The South Sudanese (which is mainly Dinka people from former African leader George Garang -amazing man but he died in heli crash) are very tall people and very tribal but Very aggressive nature. Even the woman are tall and the men or boys get inituated on a young age and cut in te face and the cary that 'family mark' (couple of scars and looks really visious!) The do not like 'short' people and the (like the Ethiopians) take a lot of care of their teeth by brushing it with a special plant/branch. Pure white healthy teeth. Their capital city is Juba in South Sudan as you enter from Kenya on the trans African Highway (although gravel av verry badly corrigated)

We lived their on the banks of the mighty White nile while demining and UN trying to disarm local citizans.

Love your report, I wonder when it will be moved to the nr1 spot in roll of honor!?

You and your wife have surely lived!

Keep on posting please

TBV, we entered Sudan at Metema. We would have loved to go see South Sudan. As you say they are quite different and we have heard many interesting stories. But at the time it was not even possible to enter South Sudan and that is part why we spend a bit more time in Ethiopia.

I will keep it coming, thanks for reading :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: zetman on January 17, 2014, 02:22:54 pm
 :biggrin: kom kom skryf jong jy is ver agter met julle ritverslag :ricky:

Update jy die piki_piki blog ook so nou en dan ???
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Vlekkie on January 18, 2014, 11:22:24 am
Hi Michnus
We are planning to do a trip in May to Lake Malawi and may be going through Botswana and Zaire.  I also have a Dakar. Was unleaded fuel ever a problem to obtain?

Hi Vlekkie, most places you will get unleaded up to Malawi, in fact most of Africa. But that said, the Dakar's can run on Camel piss very happily. :)
If you use leaded fuel your CAT would just not work anymore but that is absolutely not an issue and would do no harm to the bike. Your Green eco tjommies would not like you any more that's all.  :biggrin:
If you fit an after market exhaust you will remove the CAT with the old one so no worries then in any case.

Thank you Michnus!  Good to know!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 20, 2014, 09:28:46 pm
:biggrin: kom kom skryf jong jy is ver agter met julle ritverslag :ricky:

Update jy die piki_piki blog ook so nou en dan ???


yes sal nou weer. ek het nou tyd om dit in te haal. 10000fotos net vir Afrika en nog so 5000 vir EU tot nou.  :lamer: :biggrin:

Probeer meer fotos hier sit as op blog.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: zetman on January 20, 2014, 10:14:55 pm
Goeie werk man trots op jou
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 20, 2014, 10:58:47 pm
We have lost so much time with waiting for spares we had to make up some distance through the northern part of Sudan on our way to Egypt. The days were still as hot as hell and we kept riding to early mornings and then again in late afternoons.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nX2mnkp/0/L/i-nX2mnkp-L.jpg)
White is route through Sudan

Our route took us on the main road to Port Sudan which pass the Meroe pyramids. They say these pyramids are much older than the Egyptian pyramids. It’s not an expensive affair to visit the pyramids and the people in the small room even offered us some water and place to rest.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cZFgkgB/0/L/i-cZFgkgB-L.jpg)
Meroe pyramids Sudan. Considered older than the Egyptian pyramids.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jxxchjK/0/L/i-jxxchjK-L.jpg)

Some of the pyramids have been renovated and restored but in all honesty I think they made it worse. Our plan to wild camp was also flying out the window as we had to get to Wadi Halfa to catch the ferry in time. Even though the communication was difficult for some reason we understood each other and I kept in contact with our fixer in Wadi during the week.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GnHwWqZ/0/L/i-GnHwWqZ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-64bHBgw/0/L/i-64bHBgw-L.jpg)

We still had to cross two deserts on our way to Wadi. The heat was relenting, it really feels like somebody is blowing us with a hot air blower straight in the face. The one mistake I will not make again is to buy any black riding gear. Elsebie’s beige jacket definitively was not as hot as my black little number.

As we rode I tried to image how Lawrence of Arabia traveled around. The adventure at the time must have been mind blowing. Dangerous, difficult to say the least. Today people take it in their stride. Busses, trucks, taxi’s run the main roads bumper to bumper.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5LwbjNZ/0/L/i-5LwbjNZ-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 21, 2014, 12:05:02 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2hfXRnk/0/L/i-2hfXRnk-L.jpg)
The clay has magical powers. Water is safe to drink and always cool and it never goes empty....struush promise!  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-z5pBgGN/0/M/i-z5pBgGN-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BHpgZ77/0/L/i-BHpgZ77-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DFr4vRQ/0/M/i-DFr4vRQ-M.jpg)
fokol is growing wild!

Luckily the turn off to Adbarah took us off the main road and into the Bayudha desert towards Merowe, a town to the north west. Just outside Adbarah we were stopped at a makeshift road block. The friendly men ask us our route and then asked us if we are sure we want to take this route as it goes through the desert.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X2mHgZz/0/L/i-X2mHgZz-L.jpg)
Dried up pumpkins blown around the desert like ping pong balls.

There would be no help if one of the bikes should break we might have to sit it out for quite some time before we would encounter people. For us there was nothing to think about, that was going to be the route and since it was still early morning we had enough time to make Merowe by midday.

Midway a roadside ‘oasis’ popped up next to the road. The roof was roof constructed of poles and some palm leaves. As we got off our bikes a travelling salesman stopped. We got talking and he insisted on paying for our drinks. In the end we could only say thank you. The generosity of people in Sudan is beyond believe.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-v6j2VJp/0/L/i-v6j2VJp-L.jpg)
Yes in 1000m there is dedicated parking spot. And it looks the same as this place.

We rode into Merowi in the middle of the day and had to get out of the sun as soon as possible. On our way into town some policeman directed us to a house of a Nubian family. We could take rest there. That is how the Sudanese describe their siesta time to us. The Nubian people opened their homes to everybody. Their kind of hospitality is unrivalled. Always friendly and nothing is too much effort for them.

There are day beds under roof, made with ropes to allow for airflow. Late the afternoon we decided to head out for Dongola and make the best of the ‘cooler’ temperature.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on January 21, 2014, 12:29:04 pm
Ek moet saamstem, naas die Danakil Depression is daar seker nie n warmer plek as Noord Sudan nie. As daar n ligte bries is voel dit letterlik of warm lug deur jou trek. Dis ongemaklike hitte.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Jaykay on January 21, 2014, 02:08:43 pm
michnus, wat betaal jy vir black market petrol?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 21, 2014, 10:08:19 pm
Ek moet saamstem, naas die Danakil Depression is daar seker nie n warmer plek as Noord Sudan nie. As daar n ligte bries is voel dit letterlik of warm lug deur jou trek. Dis ongemaklike hitte.

Ek is nog baie spyt ons kon nie Danakil toe gaan nie. German toeris was geskieet daar en alle trips soon toe was verban. Sal eendag terug gaan. :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 21, 2014, 10:10:56 pm
michnus, wat betaal jy vir black market petrol?

Jaykay op daai tyd was daar n tekort aan pertol en moes ons R8liter betaal op swart mark. Maar dit was nie die issue nie. Jy kon net nie kry nie. So eenvoudig soos dit, daar was nie. Ons het maar gewag vir n dag en kanne in n tou gaan sit en volgende dag gaan haal jy weer. Daar is nou meer issues nie.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Masai on June 12, 2014, 10:48:50 am
Michnus,
Jy is ook maar fokken lui om te skryf
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: TVB on June 12, 2014, 11:07:24 am
Michnus,
Jy is ook maar fokken lui om te skryf

Die man is inderdaad baie stil.... sal daarvan hou om verder te lees!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: EssBee on June 18, 2014, 09:29:22 am
This RR has been absolutely amazing/awesome/captivating...call it what you want....sheeez! Thanks Michnus! It has also kept me out of my work for far far too long  ::).
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Wooly Bugger on June 19, 2014, 10:40:23 am
+1
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: KTMRICK on September 26, 2014, 10:19:07 pm
Great meeting up with you guys at Ais Ais last week. Just re-read your ride report and it was inspiring.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 22, 2015, 10:20:36 am
Okay, fok time to get the show on the road again. There's so much to update it is ridiculous. Next trip start in less than 2.5 months.  :deal:

Have I mentioned how hot it is in Sudan? Not your average Stellenbosch 42 now and then. It's more like Satan pit hot. The time between 10 and 2 when you pass out from heat. And then gets sort of better by 7 the evening when you drown in your own sweat when sleeping.
And no fucking beer!
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3HVDNpq/0/L/i-3HVDNpq-L.jpg)
Typical Nubian house. Nubian people are really cool and friendly folke. Unlike Egyptians

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-b2XXHLg/0/L/i-b2XXHLg-L.jpg)
Time to "take rest"

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MGsSZTG/0/L/i-MGsSZTG-L.jpg)
5 Star rooms, wonder where were Charkey and whats his name was sleeping?

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7BZmMx4/0/L/i-7BZmMx4-L.jpg)
These most important commodity in Sudan is always for free

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tfVRML9/1/L/i-tfVRML9-L.jpg)
Nubian Nuri pyramids, Karima, Sudan, they say these are older than the Giza pyramids

Dongola is next to the Nile. We could smell water in the air as we came closer to town. The air got thicker as we road over the bridge and over the Nile into Dongola.

We headed to a popular hotel. Popular, not fancy. It’s an old place with very basic rooms. The place is clean enough and it’s obvious that many backpackers and travellers stay there. As we got off our bikes, ready to just relax, the receptionist came over and told us we need to go to the police station to get permission to sleep in the town and at the hotel.

From all our travels this must have been the most bizarre and weirdest request. We were really not in the mood for such nonsensical bullshit. The guy arranged a Tuk-Tuk for us as his directions he gave me was gibberish and dodgy at best. The policeman took our passports and eventually came back with a paper that grant us the permission to stay the night.

Truly WTF! We headed back to the hotel for some drinks.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vTsW2CP/0/L/i-vTsW2CP-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6GDwQmb/0/L/i-6GDwQmb-L.jpg)
Dongola hotel rooms. Not bad but that water cooler sounds like a Folcker airplane taking off while running to keep the place cool.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NM7SL7p/0/L/i-NM7SL7p-L.jpg)
Damn! We only eat bread, eggs and tomato sauce and then the tomato sauce pulls a porn stunt on me and cum on my face!  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3NwWcf9/0/L/i-3NwWcf9-L.jpg)

The road to Wadi Halfa meander through the desert and follow the course of the Nile which flows out into Lake Nassar. All along the Nile the Nubian people farm and live in colourful settlements. I think a very special hike or bicycle trip would be to fly into Khartoum, take a bus or public transport to Dongola and then either hike, walk or ride a bicycle to Wadi Halfa following the Nile.

It is really safe and it is possible to camp anywhere next to the Nile or with Nubian families. It is easy to walk back to the main road and get a taxi or bus back to Khartoum. My only reservation is the lack of beers in Sudan.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-crzm7xq/0/L/i-crzm7xq-L.jpg)
Beautiful Nubian house next to the Nile. The Nubians will have you stay for free and feed you aswell. Really cool people.


Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 22, 2015, 11:30:10 am
Less than 200km before Wadi Halfa we rode past compounds with hundreds of people, trucks, pick-up vans next to the road with makeshift eateries. For the most there were no houses or shacks around. Only shallow dugouts in the ground covered with old torn apart sails flapping away in the midday heat. It was a perplexing sight.

Only later were we told it is people digging for gold. We were totally bowled over. The level of poverty and hope for a better life, living in the desert like rats in holes digging for a hope to find a morsel of gold. Good lord, it’s a hard life.

Wadi Halfa what a groovy lekker town!
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tGS9jB2/0/L/i-tGS9jB2-L.jpg)
Sunset over Wadi Halfa

The sun was on it’s way turning orange when we rode into Wadi Halfa. Mazar our local fixer told we do not have to worry he will find us as we got into town. On Tracks 4 Africa quite a few hotels are listed. The problem with that was that all of them are labelled hotels but most of them are in fact just rest houses. The locals call them hotels but they are not.

Mazar found us at one of these hotels and he duly directed us to the Kilopatra hotel. The place is dirt cheap and all the local travelers or overlanders spend their time here waiting for the ferry. There was a fan in the room with two well slept in beds. We left most of the stuff on the bikes. We were assured it would be safe, and it was.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VHzZhxG/0/L/i-VHzZhxG-L.jpg)
Bikes and all the stuff on it is safe outside our humble hotel which was our home for 3 days. Mazar the only honest reliable and humane fixer we have ever met.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LRLRMmb/0/S/i-LRLRMmb-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9jGq6ZH/0/S/i-9jGq6ZH-S.jpg)
Loads of channels, Our private TV and a choice between Muslim prayers and Muslim prayers. Gourmet dining in our room.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gVj2zXW/0/S/i-gVj2zXW-S.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-w8j9trh/0/S/i-w8j9trh-S.jpg)
Quick lesson: Use your hand to wipe your arse! If you use toilet paper wipe arse and throw in bin, just do not go in the afternoon the stench is vomit inducing.

For Westerners getting use to squat toilets is a funny affair. We are not use to squat like this. The other more nauseating thing is the showers and toilets are most of the times a one unit set up. Cleaning and the smell of you know what does not seems to bother locals as much as us. And then the custom is to not throw toilet paper in to the toilet. For one the sewerage pipes are not designed to handle paper waste.

Secondly they do not use toilet paper. There are small plastic watering cans around which the locals use to wash their hands after a visit to the loo. Toilet paper cost almost 7 times as much as normal packets of tissues.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4hdsPnC/0/M/i-4hdsPnC-M.jpg)
Early evening the men watch TV outside, very festive and a social affair. Woman must not be seen, go cook or make a sandwich or something.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KmwVGH2/0/M/i-KmwVGH2-M.jpg)
Intermission and we quickly take pray.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-94dqcNN/0/M/i-94dqcNN-M.jpg)
After TV time, it's time for tea and kak praat with the locals, and what's news on Al Jazeera.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SK8bZbS/0/M/i-SK8bZbS-M.jpg)
Don't worry it is not just us Saffers getting screwed by MTN they rape the entire Africa.  :biggrin:

We did not waste time kicking off the bike boots and hit the dust roads for a night on the town. Wadi Halfa is small friendly vibey town with a very relaxed atmosphere. The people hang around outside after sunset when the air is cooler. They chatter like finches in a palm tree just before they go to sleep.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-r8DX8P2/0/L/i-r8DX8P2-L.jpg)
Our daily bread from our local hangout place. Burn like toxic waste and lava from the chillies and only luke warm Coke to wash it down. But still a great meal from our friendly new friends.

We dined on Shawarmas for less than 2USD for us both. Local tea vendor ladies dishes up the nicest spicy tasting tea with pleasing aromas.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cXHXcMJ/0/L/i-cXHXcMJ-L.jpg)
Beds everywhere as "taking rest"is very important.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jdGKxfX/0/S/i-jdGKxfX-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5fLzGFt/0/S/i-5fLzGFt-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-srrsDnZ/0/M/i-srrsDnZ-M.jpg)
Lekker people, these old toppies were having very intellectual conversations with us while we sip on tea trying to fix the problems of the world. Breakfast was something ridiculous like R20 for us both. Eggs, fresh bread and tea

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SMvLrRG/0/S/i-SMvLrRG-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DsnVCfj/0/S/i-DsnVCfj-S.jpg)
Ferry booking office signage. At least they tried not like the damn Egyptians.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fbPffSm/0/M/i-fbPffSm-M.jpg)
I was convinced this was that Al Qaeda Osama Bin laden hangout pozzy. Looked really dodgy and all.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZWnDxDV/0/S/i-ZWnDxDV-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Vsw5cMT/0/S/i-Vsw5cMT-S.jpg)
This guy eventually started giving us Coke for free because we supported him everyday. Cookies and condensed milk could stop any stomach bug. The town is pumping at night.

The damn Heidenau on the back of my bike was on it’s way out. I think the heat of the last few days was causing the delamination. The entire tread was busy coming apart. Mazar had a KLR there with as side car which was abandoned by the owners, a South African couple. They were unable to secure the documents to cross into Egypt and it would have cost them more money that what the bike was worth.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xvr8VPP/0/L/i-xvr8VPP-L.jpg)
Mazar the fixer at the Wadi halfa border

Mazar offered that we swap tyres as the one on the KLR were still good for some more mileage. The next day, Mazar, arranged all the necessary paper work for us to board the ferry and whatever documents that we had to have.

Sudan is a tough place to travel let alone live. No mainstream tourism which makes the country so special and a real adventure. We would love to go back even though there are no beers. The people of Sudan are really cool!
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Sj4GfMk/1/L/i-Sj4GfMk-L.jpg)

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gérrard on January 22, 2015, 11:48:22 am
Lekker om julle weer te sien  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: dirtyXT on January 22, 2015, 11:50:27 am
 :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Sláinte Mhaith on January 22, 2015, 11:51:29 am
 :sip:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Gérrard on January 22, 2015, 11:53:49 am
Update eers vir ons want ek het nou track verloor. Waar is julle nou en wat is die volgende trip ?
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: Heimer on January 22, 2015, 11:57:37 am
Terug op die lug.

Nice Michnus  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ROOI on January 22, 2015, 11:59:20 am
Fok welkom terug lekker om te lees soos altyd  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 22, 2015, 02:58:25 pm
Update eers vir ons want ek het nou track verloor. Waar is julle nou en wat is die volgende trip ?

Yebo yes! Jislaaik ek weet, dit is net soveel damn werk om al die photos en goed te try sort en edit, en ek laai meer fotos hier as op die blog. Ek moes ook eers die blog update wat my lank gevat het. Ons het Europe getoer vir 5 maande en ek sal dit nou bysit. Ons volgende trip nou is vir April. Ons bikes is in Ulm in Germany en ons gaan hulle haal en dan af ry Turkey toe en Iran as ons kan inkom. sal Oktober die bikes weer in Ulm park vir winter.  :biggrin:

Yes menere die trip moet aangaan  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: cloudgazer on January 22, 2015, 05:24:41 pm
You guys are my heroes.

Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: ButchH on January 23, 2015, 09:36:46 pm
bout bloody time  :deal: :thumleft:
Title: EGYPT..IN SEARCH OF THE OLD EGYPTIANS. PART 1
Post by: michnus on January 24, 2015, 05:41:31 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NHNtKt5/2/L/i-NHNtKt5-L.jpg)

Post is a bit buggered the pictures do not follow the story as we could not take pictures on the ferry.

Penning our experience with Egypt took me some time. It's got more to do with the aberrant manner of Egypt. Take caution not to become cynical about Egyptians and try and see the real Egypt and people. But let me tell you the story and you can decide for yourself. It’s a love hate affair. Sometimes more hate than love and a bit of a culture shock until one learn to deal with Egypt's eccentric and quirky ways.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8BxFMNF/1/L/i-8BxFMNF-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KB3wSZN/0/L/i-KB3wSZN-L.gif)

Our modus operandi for any new country was and still is, go in with open minds and expect anything and know that most things most probablywill be different to what we are accustomed to. This was no different to Egypt. Although, we had our trepidation about Egypt and were told horror stories by many travelers about Baksheesh and the art of ripping-off of travelers even outside the tourist areas.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GkDJW7J/1/L/i-GkDJW7J-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TNrLfrj/0/M/i-TNrLfrj-M.jpg)

We were really seeing forward sitting next to the Nile in Aswan with a beer, Falafel and the sun setting over the sand dunes. You know that pictures of Raiders of the Lost Arch and such movie? And then off course to see the pyramids and ancient sites of the old Egyptians.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-N3pNzVW/0/S/i-N3pNzVW-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7zpHSRD/0/S/i-7zpHSRD-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wk4FL96/0/M/i-wk4FL96-M.jpg)
Early morning Aswan waking up. Smell of fresh bread everywhere.

Mazar our fixer in Sudan at the border town of Wadi Halfa ran around preparing all the paper work for us to enter Egypt onboard the dilapidated SS Titanic Nasser. This ramshackle zinc tub was still the current and only means of travel between Sudan and Egypt. This must still be the first steel boat ever build in the world operating. We quickly found out the reason for its existence was that an entire economy revolves around the operation of this vessel.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vjXSggs/0/M/i-vjXSggs-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Zdv66dF/0/M/i-Zdv66dF-M.jpg)
These stupid big cruise ships stand 4-5 deep row after row, we stop counted somewhere after 50 or 70 empty. The Arab spring killed the tourist flowers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jQWQNgj/0/L/i-jQWQNgj-L.jpg)
Rent a Felluca for the day, they are cheap and lunch with beers are standard.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Zv8HcSq/0/S/i-Zv8HcSq-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nCfPnFW/0/S/i-nCfPnFW-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-P4f26zj/0/S/i-P4f26zj-S.jpg)
Me? Yes for bloody sure I am a pharaoh! Call me King Tut Two

Most migrants and travelers between the two countries would rather opt for road as means of transport than this decrepit piece of 1920’s boat building marvel. There is a perfectly good piece of black slab between Sudan and Egypt but because of corruption people are forced to use the boat and are not allowed to travel by road.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-76LvNHq/0/M/i-76LvNHq-M.jpg)
Small ferries taking people to the Islands in the Nile. Woman on one side men on otherside. Not allowed to sit together.
 
It took 24 hours for the boat to travel to Aswan along the length of Lake Nasser. We had to ask special permission to get our bikes on board as this ferry only took passengers. The barges that normally transport the vehicles were not operational due to a low water level in Lake Nasser.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-22G8LMZ/1/M/i-22G8LMZ-M.jpg)
Hotels were dirt cheap and we took over the rooftop swimming pool with the beer fridge.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gZZBj8g/0/M/i-gZZBj8g-M.jpg)
Sex is sex baby, does not matter how extreme the believes  :biggrin:

We set sail late in the afternoon. It took age’s to load all the people and their bags of whatever they had with them. Well, whatever powered this waiting-to-sink-fail-ship got slowly going with more people on-board than what very lenient Western safety standard would allow. There were people sleeping on everything that were flat.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MRB2vhv/0/L/i-MRB2vhv-L.jpg)
Antoine and Carlene the two fearless bicycle overlanders. Fucking crazy to pedal when you can open a throttle. They consumed more food that than our bikes consumed fuel. They pedaled all the way from Ethiopia back to Europe!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Rgz9GJ2/0/M/i-Rgz9GJ2-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-S6bk3TX/0/M/i-S6bk3TX-M.jpg)
Cool thing about adventurers, spending a little bit of time together on the road and it tend to end in long term friendships. Does not matter where in the world people live.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CXFpvgs/0/M/i-CXFpvgs-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-99dDLQ9/0/M/i-99dDLQ9-M.jpg)
Aswan comes alive at night. At least there are beer!

Elsebie got allocated a cabin with a woman and her 2 kids the size of a shoe box. That turned out a disaster as the woman green smelly fart quickly filled the small cabin. As for myself, I had to use friendly force and an evil eye with a few Egyptians for the lid of the box where the life jackets were stored on deck. Not long and Elsebie made me move up to lie next to me on the lid of the box, the farting got too much for her to bear.

We met up with Antoine and Carlene, two bicycle riders from Europe that rode their bicycles from Ethiopia back to Europe. Eventually, we got space under one of the Lifeboats for the duration of the trip. This ferry trip turned out to be one of those experiences which were quite memorable and enjoyable but we would never want to do it again.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing? The comprehensive report, more pics + info.
Post by: michnus on January 24, 2015, 05:43:32 pm
Thank's Cloudgazer  :thumleft:

Sorry ButchH  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: J-dog on January 24, 2015, 07:22:49 pm
Welcome back M  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: Would I? on January 24, 2015, 09:07:11 pm
Keep it coming!!  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on January 26, 2015, 12:59:00 pm
Aswan is a serene place where the Nile is more majestic than anywhere else, flowing through granite rocks, and round emerald islands covered in palm groves and tropical plants. It’s a typical tourist town where rip-off prices and nagging vendors force themselves onto anybody looking like a tourist.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-27c93Gj/1/M/i-27c93Gj-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-F4JHbZX/0/M/i-F4JHbZX-M.jpg)
Food is cheap and street food quite good. Koshary and Falafel with beer is great for building a lekker boep.
"Koshary (http://www.touregypt.net/blog/activity-guide/top-5-street-foods-to-try-in-egypt/) is, without a doubt, the most famous Egyptian street food around.  Consisting of more carbs and legumes than you’ve probably ever seen in one meal (pasta, rice, lentils and chick peas) and onions and garlic, you’ll be sure to eat this meal, then be ready for a nap right after!  Sometimes considered the poorman’s meal because it can fill you up and is quite inexpensive, you’ll find many common Egyptians crowding the stands and restaurants where it is served."

The Arabic spring had an adverse effect on the tourist industry in Egypt. Huge cruise boats we docked along each other many hotels we empty. A quick count over 50 of the behemoth cruise liners docked. Nothing much was happening in the town.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dhWr2pf/1/M/i-dhWr2pf-M.jpg)
None of us are smokers. But when in Rome. Enjoying the view to Aswan and it''s lights at night from Elephant Island. Our Fixer "fuck us over" host invited us over for tea and a peace pipe.

Because of the bureaucratic bullshit we had to spend 2 days in Aswan waiting for the bikes to clear through customs. This border crossing ended up being the most costly of the entire trip. Mostly due to fixer payment and Baksheesh that had to be paid. Everything is written in Arabic and thus trying as travelers to clear through custom was impossible.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cNdc4Wb/1/M/i-cNdc4Wb-M.jpg)
Beer is a blood purifier, do not know where they get this nonsense :)

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QQKdfBm/0/M/i-QQKdfBm-M.jpg
Take the Arab spring on a bike..

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4DxRmFt/0/L/i-4DxRmFt-L.jpg)
Ideologies!!

It’s a lengthy process. First we had to pay for a road engineer, pffff…..a bloody low paid cop now is called a road engineer. We paid a taxi from Aswan to customs, 25km away for him to scratch the VIN numbers onto a piece of paper, which eventually would end up with a ton of other rubbish in a corner of one of the offices. The customs officials at the border were not allowed to perform this very important and highly skilled task.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vwj8WSm/0/L/i-vwj8WSm-L.jpg)

Then there were four other officials each who had to sign some more useless papers and wrote gibberish in Arabic on the Carne. We then we got issued with yellow temporary number plates that had to be fixed to the bikes.

We were in Egypt and in search of the old Egyptians.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on January 26, 2015, 04:09:05 pm
Thanks J-Dog.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: cocky on January 26, 2015, 04:12:37 pm
Aswan is a serene place where the Nile is more majestic than anywhere else, flowing through granite rocks, and round emerald islands covered in palm groves and tropical plants. It’s a typical tourist town where rip-off prices and nagging vendors force themselves onto anybody looking like a tourist.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-27c93Gj/1/M/i-27c93Gj-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-F4JHbZX/0/M/i-F4JHbZX-M.jpg)
Food is cheap and street food quite good. Koshary and Falafel with beer is great for building a lekker boep.
"Koshary (http://www.touregypt.net/blog/activity-guide/top-5-street-foods-to-try-in-egypt/) is, without a doubt, the most famous Egyptian street food around.  Consisting of more carbs and legumes than you’ve probably ever seen in one meal (pasta, rice, lentils and chick peas) and onions and garlic, you’ll be sure to eat this meal, then be ready for a nap right after!  Sometimes considered the poorman’s meal because it can fill you up and is quite inexpensive, you’ll find many common Egyptians crowding the stands and restaurants where it is served."

The Arabic spring had an adverse effect on the tourist industry in Egypt. Huge cruise boats we docked along each other many hotels we empty. A quick count over 50 of the behemoth cruise liners docked. Nothing much was happening in the town.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dhWr2pf/1/M/i-dhWr2pf-M.jpg)
None of us are smokers. But when in Rome. Enjoying the view to Aswan and it''s lights at night from Elephant Island. Our Fixer "fuck us over" host invited us over for tea and a peace pipe.

Because of the bureaucratic bullshit we had to spend 2 days in Aswan waiting for the bikes to clear through customs. This border crossing ended up being the most costly of the entire trip. Mostly due to fixer payment and Baksheesh that had to be paid. Everything is written in Arabic and thus trying as travelers to clear through custom was impossible.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-cNdc4Wb/1/M/i-cNdc4Wb-M.jpg)
Beer is a blood purifier, do not know where they get this nonsense :)

http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QQKdfBm/0/M/i-QQKdfBm-M.jpg
Take the Arab spring on a bike..

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4DxRmFt/0/L/i-4DxRmFt-L.jpg)
Ideologies!!

It’s a lengthy process. First we had to pay for a road engineer, pffff…..a bloody low paid cop now is called a road engineer. We paid a taxi from Aswan to customs, 25km away for him to scratch the VIN numbers onto a piece of paper, which eventually would end up with a ton of other rubbish in a corner of one of the offices. The customs officials at the border were not allowed to perform this very important and highly skilled task.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vwj8WSm/0/L/i-vwj8WSm-L.jpg)

Then there were four other officials each who had to sign some more useless papers and wrote gibberish in Arabic on the Carne. We then we got issued with yellow temporary number plates that had to be fixed to the bikes.

We were in Egypt and in search of the old Egyptians.
Kak lewe wat jy het ne, wens ek kon ook bietjie gaan bike ry met n mooi sakkie vir my kit, dalk eendag as ek mooi groot is. :peepwall: :pot:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on January 26, 2015, 06:50:33 pm
Jy weet nooit, mag dalk net gebeur  :thumleft: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on January 28, 2015, 12:25:43 pm
After our stint in Ethiopia having to beg, kick and kill for petrol, we thought petrol would be an easier commodity to come by in Egypt. Well as it turns out, the Arab spring protest had a huge influence on the supply countrywide.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TJVhgcL/0/L/i-TJVhgcL-L.jpg)

Petrol in Egypt normally cost around R3-00 (.30usd) per liter of petrol. For us as travelers, that is if you could get some, it was closer to R6-00 (.60usd) per liter. Yes, still cheaper compared to South African prices, but a poorer quality than ours. The bikes performance were more like cheap Chinese knock-off scooters.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-752rkDm/0/M/i-752rkDm-M.jpg)
Check the huge smile a motorcycle ride gives a bicyclist. Twist the throttle gives much more of a hard on than pedaling. Having fun visiting all the ancient historical places.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4ggBKTG/0/M/i-4ggBKTG-M.jpg)
Mosque build in the grounds of the old Egyptian ruins

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xDvMjPH/0/M/i-xDvMjPH-M.jpg)
Lots of small tourist trap shops. You can buy genuine, 100% real out of the tomb artifacts. Genuine!:D

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hLmKLPG/1/S/i-hLmKLPG-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wSLbBXg/1/S/i-wSLbBXg-S.jpg)
The old next to the new. Part of ancient buildings foundations to the right.

When we entered Egypt our plan was to do the desert route. It passes the White and Black deserts to the west of the country. With its spectacular scenes and sand formations it is a must see. Also off the main tourist route and should allow us to mingle with local folk. Okay, so in the end that did not work out due to the petrol shortage and we would not have been able to find petrol for that 1100km stretch.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5N26CP8/1/L/i-5N26CP8-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QMHbP7T/1/L/i-QMHbP7T-L.jpg)
The Nile is everything and everything happens next ot the Nile. It is life in Egypt

With Antoine and Carlene and their slow as a donkey bicycles for transport, the decision was made to have a bit of a party time up the coast to Cairo. They will go from Hurghada to Dahab, a dive scene along the Red-sea coast, while we will ship our bikes somewhere else out of Egypt.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Sm7GR3z/1/M/i-Sm7GR3z-M.jpg)
Easier to get around Luxor on the bikes.

Well, like I said, just useless information.And I think we had less harmful emissions than what they had consuming all the funny food on the way. Farting and peddling cannot be good for a human being. That said, there’s a lot to be said for peddling the way they did. It’s a helluva lot cheaper than a motorcycle setup, and there were no need for Carne’s and paper work.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-brXb7BB/1/L/i-brXb7BB-L.jpg)
The reason the picture was taken from such a distance is that it's not allowed to take pictures. Think they are scared they would either lose revenue, or by taking photographs would do damage to the structure.

The road in the middle of Egypt that snakes parallel to the Nile up to Cairo is a tedious slow going affair. It is around 700km in length and there are police stops every 3 or 5 kilometers. The locals told us after Mubarak got asked nicely to get the hell out of office, the local Egyptians did not want this entire military and police nonsense. So none of the stops were actually stops anymore, just inconveniences in the road where we had to slow down and wave at the police sleeping under the dilapidated makeshift sun shades.

We only had to stick to the main road till Luxor and then turn off to Hurghada, a seaside resort town at the Red sea.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hVCdJ6s/0/M/i-hVCdJ6s-M.jpg)
Road blocks, road blocks everywhere...we never stopped just went through them.

Now, this is where my question as the heading of this blog comes in …

Where and what happened to the old Egyptians? The people in Egypt today cannot possible be the same people. I must confess I am really ignorant when it comes to Egyptian history. But it hits one in the face the dramatic difference between the impressive old and the lackadaisical almost torpid reality of today’ Egypt.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6R75KtH/0/M/i-6R75KtH-M.jpg)

The old monuments, temples and Valley of the Kings are truly impressive. To think that people build it thousands of years ago with very primitive tools and knowledge, sure makes for jaw dropping gasps. They sure punched above their weight. Turn around and look at Egypt today and it is as if the entire old Egyptian civilization stopped to exist at some point, progress just stopped. Egypt today looks like a rundown African failed state with a good stream of tourism income.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: Kerritz on January 28, 2015, 01:11:54 pm
Lekker Michnus!!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on February 02, 2015, 12:26:36 pm
Thanks Carrots :)
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on February 02, 2015, 01:16:59 pm
Luxor is home to the Valley of Kings, the temple of Karnuk and the temple of Luxor. For overlanders there is one place to stay in Luxor and it is Rezeiky camp. It is run and owned by a very friendly and helpful Coptic Christian, Mr Rezeiky. We made it our base for a few days while we visited most of the temples. One utter stupid thing about the major attractions is that they do not allow any photos to be taken of the temples or inside the tombs. So we can say we were there but we have not a single photo to show for it. And beware, to visit all the temples will shrink a budget traveler’s budget in no time at all.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vQq9Sqb/0/L/i-vQq9Sqb-L.jpg)
Busy Hurghada next to the Red Sea. Those expensive ferries stop to run the route with the Arab spring.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xPQgG2t/0/M/i-xPQgG2t-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9TKKKpV/0/M/i-9TKKKpV-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KfrzfWZ/0/M/i-KfrzfWZ-M.jpg)
The entire coast are the playground of the Russians. Most business signs are in English, Russian and Arabic. Not to mention the hideous  looking fronts of business bars and restaurants

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Bd3WPb3/0/M/i-Bd3WPb3-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GLHpLPP/0/M/i-GLHpLPP-M.jpg)
Every morning cheap breakfast with the locals old folks at a small cafe. Breakfast cost no more than 2$

Back in Ethiopia my front fork seals took a beating and both pissed out most of the oil. I was in no mood to fix it in the heat of Sudan and as such carried on all the time while oil pissed out onto the front brake, over my bike and to Elsebie’ horror my pants. We took this opportunity to get them fixed. Fork oil is not something that is readily available in Luxor. The owner none the less sends his help to fetch me some fork oil. What he brought back was something more with the consistency of rusty murky water, but it was definitely not fork oil.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8cV9V9T/0/M/i-8cV9V9T-M.jpg)
Rezeiky camp in Luxor. Owned by super nice Coptic Christians.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PXrnhMV/0/M/i-PXrnhMV-M.jpg)
Overhauling front forks again. Seals just do not last.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6NBLwpp/0/M/i-6NBLwpp-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7Drp8ZD/0/M/i-7Drp8ZD-M.jpg)
What went into the forks looks like brown oil but I suspect it was old oil from fries or something mixed with sewage. As it was impossible to buy fork oil or even hydraulic oil they brought me that mix in a 2l Coke bottle.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LtTwX7D/0/M/i-LtTwX7D-M.jpg)
At least there was a pool to cool off.

If that is it then, that is what will have to work in this bike till Europe. In any case the nice off-road riding was a thing of the past for now.

It was in Hurgada the sea side holiday resort town that our trip got halted with a sudden urgency. We booked into a cheap dodgy establishment which was only good for poorer bottom of the barrel scraping travelers like ourselves. It was clean and…………well, it was clean let’s leave it at that.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7wNqjVK/0/M/i-7wNqjVK-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-63Sn8qZ/0/L/i-63Sn8qZ-L.jpg)
Small shops pressing sugar cane into plastic sachets mixed with Lime juice Costing like .2$cents. Fuck Red Bull this stuff gives you wings!
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on February 02, 2015, 01:37:36 pm
After our accident in Sudan, Elsebie nursed her knee for 4 weeks and it looked like it was healing albeit slowly. The injury from our view point did not look to be too serious. A few days before, an Egyptian pseudo-ointment quack tried to swindle us into buying his toxic potion made of white pig lard, cow shit and other unholy ingredients which yet had to be named by science and which does not exist on the Periodic table.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-m6RgjNQ/0/M/i-m6RgjNQ-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BPbLz9w/0/M/i-BPbLz9w-M.jpg)
Some nice night bars in Luxor. Got a bit of a cheesy grotto feel to them but it's got a nice vibe.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4qcgXMS/0/M/i-4qcgXMS-M.jpg)
Get going to Cairo
In any case this quack saw Elsebie’s knee and before she knew what hit her were made to sit on a small 3 legged chair and he rubbed this shit into the wound, she stopped him and try to get out as much as possible. We could only surmise that, that must have been the root of the infection as her knee showed healing in the 3 and half weeks prior to this.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NHzQDmC/0/L/i-NHzQDmC-L.jpg)
As in Ethiopia the cars, trucks and whateverdefuck uses the roads just shed parts and pieces as far as they go. It's just like horses just shit as they trotting along, except these auto's shit puncture opportunities.

Her knee did not look well, it was swollen with the typical signs of infected red flesh. Only option was to see a Dr and since it’s a big town they would have a hospital. She left us at a coffee shop while she went to the hospital. Two hours later she called and informed us the Dr wanted 8000usd as deposit and that he wants to operate the same.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZcqrtTK/0/M/i-ZcqrtTK-M.jpg)
Not the Engen One stop on the N1 but these roadside stops are always busy and food is cheap.

It left us between a rock and a hard place. There were no way we would give a Dr 8000usd and that as deposit. We have learned from our mistakes in Egypt and that would only result in more horror extortion afterwards. Also even if she did get an operation in Egypt we cannot stay for months for her to recover. We decided to leave the bikes in Cairo and fly back home the next day.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-njWDDRv/1/L/i-njWDDRv-L.jpg)
Wild camping close to Cairo

Antoine offered to ride her bike for me to Cairo and she and Carlene will use a rental car to get to Cairo. I called the South African embassy in Cairo and Johnny one of the higher up managers immediate told me that we could leave the bikes in the basement in the embassy until we return. This was the first time I have ever experience this kind of help from any government department and people.

Needless to say, the next day with the bikes parked we flew back to South Africa.
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: Would I? on February 02, 2015, 07:21:26 pm
That's a rude break in a nice trip.........
Title: Re: Hello Africa tell me how you doing?The comprehensive report, more pics
Post by: michnus on February 03, 2015, 06:29:36 pm
Ye man, the worse is the damn Egyptians. Not nice people :D
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 04, 2015, 12:18:58 pm
With a 200% deposit on a Carnet de passage just for Egypt we knew the slow wheels of bureaucracy in Egypt will test our patience. The day we landed in South Africa while Elsebie went to book into hospital for her knee, I went to the Egyptian embassy in Pretoria. I wanted to inquire about the process which we have to follow to keep our bikes legal in Egypt until we get back.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QWf9Qtq/0/L/i-QWf9Qtq-L.gif)

Needless to say, the Egyptian embassy in SA was not only very rude but also not helpful at all. We have been to many embassies for visas but to date have never experienced an embassy like this. One of the people working there looked at our paperwork and translated the Arabic to: the bikes had to be out of the country by 15th of May! Now take into account you get a 30 day visa and we told them at the border we will be traveling for a while in Egypt.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GkLBZ9t/0/L/i-GkLBZ9t-L.jpg)

I met with the ambassador who informed me that he was only dealing with high people and do not deal or give advice on such trivial matters, tourist or no tourist. The best advice they could master up was for me to have letters stamped and notarised by the master of the high court in Bisho or Grahamstown in which I explain what happened.

Then have those letters stamped by the Minister of International relations and the Minister of Health. And in the end pay somebody that is approved by the master of the High court in Pretoria to translate it all into Arabic.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nNgDNVX/0/M/i-nNgDNVX-M.jpg)

This took us some time, a lot of courier costs and fees to get all done. All the while we wondered if it was a futile exercise. Customs officials the world over are not the most upstanding of citizens and I was not optimistic that these letters would convince a border official wanting money.

With all our paperwork ready and new parts for the bikes, we flew back to Cairo 5 month later to try and get the bikes into Europe with the least amount of damage to our pockets.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VdGJBnk/0/L/i-VdGJBnk-L.jpg)
Cairo old city is stupidly busy, always. Okay not 3am but the rest of the time it's like a beehive.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8T7GH3T/0/M/i-8T7GH3T-M.jpg)
Yes, the Cairo National Museum is suppose to be shit hot place. It is, except it looks like a badly run overstock pawnshop.

The plan was to make it for Jordan, spend time at Petra, then Israel and then ship over to Italy from there. Shipping out of Egypt was our last option. There are too many horror stories of having to pay bribes and Baksheesh and then still having to wait for the boat which may or may not arrive within a week……or not.

We had our Shengzen visas and our Jordan visa’s in hand.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fpr8wqn/0/M/i-fpr8wqn-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fpSF8TH/0/M/i-fpSF8TH-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MVx6TjR/0/M/i-MVx6TjR-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4JqnLHw/0/M/i-4JqnLHw-M.jpg)

At least we had the time now to see the pyramids of Giza and the museum in Cairo. With some luck we got into a dodgy, small but cool hostel in the middle of Cairo. For about R180 per night per room, they even picked us up at the airport.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NTswcFw/0/M/i-NTswcFw-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ww2wPNw/0/M/i-ww2wPNw-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XTJ6X9D/0/M/i-XTJ6X9D-M.jpg)

Driving in Cairo can at first be petrifying and very intimidating. But then although they drive like real hillbillies it’s a slow bumper to bumper affair with lots of hooting and screaming. Not much that can hurt you if you take it slow and just stay out of others way.

Johnny the Consular at the South African embassy that helped us since the start, again went out of his way to help us. This time had the driver took us to the traffic department to get the licenses renewed for the bikes as we would not have been able to find less talk to the people there.


But all was not that rosy, apparently in Arabic it stated on the papers we had 3 days to get the bikes out of Egypt or have higher penalties that we had to pay. We were still in the dark as to exactly how deep the trouble was and if, how much penalties would have to be paid for renewal of the Egyptian number plates and for customs.

The worse was we had 3 fucking days to get the bikes out of Egypt!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5JJmXLV/0/M/i-5JJmXLV-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-w6QmMh4/0/M/i-w6QmMh4-M.jpg)
Battery hunting.

Some people told us they can not see it on the papers that got issued to us but we must rather not take a change. And as luck would have it the newest (7-8 months old) of the batteries was completely dead. The older one was also near death’s door, but luckily we brought 1 new battery with us. This resulted again in Johhny helping with the driver to track a bike shop in Cairo that would maybe with an off chance have a battery for a Dakar.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PVtSRPW/0/M/i-PVtSRPW-M.jpg)
Full of dust from living in a basement.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-L4ZKQ8W/0/M/i-L4ZKQ8W-M.jpg)
Trying to force a 1200GS battery into the box.

BMW the ever keen design engineers they are, love the concept of using special type of parts which you will never find outside of Germany, as is the case with the Dakar battery. In the end and after a long day running around we tracked down the equivalent battery for a 1200GS. I knew it would be too big to fit the battery box of the Dakar but that would just had to do the trick.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2dd3Ntr/0/M/i-2dd3Ntr-M.jpg)
Time to hit the road to Jordan..
Title: Re:
Post by: Heimer on February 04, 2015, 12:49:11 pm
Unbelievable bureaucracy
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: DirtRebell on February 04, 2015, 01:03:14 pm
Awesome report, Michnus
What an experience - not for the fainthearted though.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 04, 2015, 01:31:04 pm
Heimer, from every country we have ever travelled the utter stupidity, incompetence, Baksheesh and bureaucracy, Egypt win by miles. They have fucking forms for other forms to fill in for other forms and all in Arabic and stamps for every form and everybody except the floor sweeper must sign it. They did not just take my bike frame number. They take a small piece of paper with a pencil and scratch the number onto the paper and that gets put in the file. Engine number no problem...only steal frames/chassis.

Going into Italy, the customs people just said go, go, go!! No paperwork, I asked. No..fuck off! Go. I said but I want a stamp! Any stamp, I come from Africa, we have fucking stamps for everything, I want a bloody stamp!! I don't care what stamp it can be your middle finger arsewipe as a stamp but I want stamps!! Well, no go! They said. Worlds apart wrt efficiency  :lol8:

And I am not exaggerating.

I still have this perverse agro  to hit every Egyptian official with a shovel in the face.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Sláinte Mhaith on February 04, 2015, 01:42:28 pm
So werk 'n graaf

http://youtu.be/hkT3W0-MrOI (http://youtu.be/hkT3W0-MrOI)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on February 04, 2015, 01:44:42 pm
Michnus, I worked in Cairo and Luxor for 5 years as a consultant to the textile industry. I agree with your sentiments. You should try WORKING with them. That's when the real nightmare begins.

However, I quite enjoyed the city. Lots of fun to be had if you integrate with a local crowd  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 04, 2015, 02:05:34 pm
So werk 'n graaf

http://youtu.be/hkT3W0-MrOI (http://youtu.be/hkT3W0-MrOI)

 :lol8: :spitcoffee: :imaposer: Net harder!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 04, 2015, 02:11:15 pm
Michnus, I worked in Cairo and Luxor for 5 years as a consultant to the textile industry. I agree with your sentiments. You should try WORKING with them. That's when the real nightmare begins.

However, I quite enjoyed the city. Lots of fun to be had if you integrate with a local crowd  :thumleft:

Agree with you. Some of the more middle class and more educated are on a better and normal level of life. We met some really cool Egyptians and Nubian people though. Maybe it is the same as dealing with our own governmental officials. In general and in the tourist places getting fucked over is just normal. It is not if you will get shafted it is just how hard. I generalize of course.   

In all Egypt and the inner city of Cairo is weird, cool, excentric all in one. Still will go to the bottom part of my list of likable countries  :biggrin: :deal:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 05, 2015, 11:33:32 am
We decided the next day, come hell or highwater we will go and see the pyramids and museum and then the next day ride over the Suez Canal, or under it, as there’s no bridges over the Suez. Then head for Nuweiba at the Red sea and take the ferry to Jordan. If nothing else goes wrong we would be there on day 3 to clear customs and take the shit that will come with having the bikes exceeding their issued time limit.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SZMRRQr/0/M/i-SZMRRQr-M.jpg)
Cairo business centre from across the Nile.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/IMG_0513-1024x768.jpg)
And then during day time Cairo is another beast.

After another taxi driver screwed us over and paying too much to get around, the embassy staff arranged for a taxi driver to drive us the following day to see what we had to see. They said on the bikes it would take to long for us to try and navigate and would not be able to see everything – which is so true.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vDdnhWx/0/M/i-vDdnhWx-M.jpg)
Met some really cool young Egyptians. They have quite a different view on religion and turmoil in Egypt. Hopefully they will help turn Egypt in the future.

Through www.ADVRider.com (http://www.ADVRider.com) website I met a guy named, Heeso, who not only helped us to find the battery for the bike but also invited us out to meet his friends and fellow-bikers. We spend a memorable evening in a rooftop restaurant.

The pyramids sure are a sight to behold. The sheer tenacity of the old Egyptians to build such structures is mind boggling. We took the option of riding on camels around the pyramids. (Do the tourist thing!) Something in hindsight we were really glad we did. The camels’ track is left to the main strip and one miss all the tourist groups, busses, curio sellers and hordes of people climbing over one another.

We are not really stuffy museum dwellers but decided to visit the popular Egyptian Museum. The artefacts are very interesting although not very well documented and it will probably be to your benefit to use a guide. The jewelry intrigued Elsebie and the details on most of the ‘older’ artefacts were fascinating.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-m7QcrW9/0/M/i-m7QcrW9-M.jpg)
Compulsory convoy across the Sinai from Cairo to Dahab. Hip!:)

The next day we left Cairo early to head for Nuweiba. The Suisse Canal can not really be accessed and there are roadblocks everywhere so we had to do with riding through the tunnel imagining how it looked above us. Just outside the tunnel all foreigners have to wait and travel in convoy – from slow petrol tanks to bikes. It took us most of the day to travel the 200km stretch to Nuweiba.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hKxsCWP/0/M/i-hKxsCWP-M.jpg)
We were suppose to follow the convoy of tourist busses and trucks but after a while of riding 60km/h in 40'c heat we ditched them and went ahead. The police and army were not impress. :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NcJ2JHP/0/M/i-NcJ2JHP-M.jpg)
Look if you want your army to look all war and fierce do not dress them in tight stove pipe pants.

We spend a night under a grass roof right next to the Red Sea. Spectacular, and were able to wash off the last of the Sinai desert in the mellow ocean. Heeso’ friend and partner was vacationing in the area and met us later for some sweet tea.

With his help and a bit of last minute reading it become clear that it will be much easier for us to cross the border to Israel at Taba instead of taking a very expensive ferry over to Jordan. A few phone calls to friends also made it seem that we will not have too much trouble at the border with the motorbikes – it turned out our Arabic paperwork stated we had 15 days to get over the border, not 3 … well, we can only wonder ….

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/IMG_0625.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qhDtcDD/0/L/i-qhDtcDD-L.jpg)
The Sinai desert is truly a very beautiful place.

The Egypt border at Taba was a surprisingly different setup as the Aswan one. Neater and with even baggage scanners (maybe they’re keeping up with the Jones’ next door…). We approached the not so well English spoken customs official with all our paperwork and waited for about 20min for him to try and figure things out.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FSF7qjv/0/L/i-FSF7qjv-L.jpg)
Our last night in Egypt we slept in the grass huts on mats. Could easily spent some time chilling there.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4cScdHj/0/M/i-4cScdHj-M.jpg)
Early morning and time to leave Egypt!!!

Not very friendly, or patient to listen to our story, he ‘lost’ one of our important papers in his register and started waving at Elsebie for not giving it to him. We searched high and low, even checked the garbage, just to when he turned his back to find his boss, for Elsebie to search his desk and to find it. Still waiting for the apology …

Now here it comes … a long story short …”It is easy, Madam, Sir, you pay EPND5540 (about R7’800) or leave your bikes here”!!!! Not even tears would move this mountain … so we had to find an ATM and cough.

Hallo, Israel, here we come!!!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: dirtyXT on February 05, 2015, 11:42:54 am
 :thumleft: fantastic. well done and glad to see you leaving that place. doesn't sound fun but amazing sights.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: EtienneXplore on February 05, 2015, 11:45:29 am
I have been following this thread with keen interest.....   ;) ;)

Lekker man!!

Thanks for all the info and the great stories, truly an inspirational read!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: brianw on February 05, 2015, 12:30:36 pm
'Still will go to the bottom part of my list of likable countries  icon_biggrin deal'

Michnus I agree with the above
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 05, 2015, 12:41:33 pm
BrianW, and you know we really do not want to say a place is on the shitty side. When we enter a country we are completely open to whatever we encounter, no bias, no preconceived ideas even if other travellers talk negative about a place we will give the benefit of the doubt to the country and find out for ourselves.
I think what makes it worse for South Africans is that we are not used to that kind of utter stupid bureaucracy and baskshees. I am sure if there was any better alternative around Egypt they would have nearly never seen any overlanders.

Heeso and some other adventure riders there are really cool people, the people at Rezeiky camp all great people. Maybe someday again but not soon.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 06, 2015, 01:27:29 pm
The border post from Egypt to Israel is no more than 30 meters, but the difference is enormous. One moment you are in Africa and 30 meters later you walk into Europe. Well not really, but that is how big the differences are between these countries.

The Israelis are seriously “paraat”* unlike the Egyptians and other African countries that looks “paraat”* but are more paranoid than “paraat”.

(*Paraat:  Ready/preparedness )


For the first time in our travels we lost data on camera cards. We lost all the pictures from Israel, these were some we were able to recover using recovery software.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8cFrNnP/0/L/i-8cFrNnP-L.jpg)
Taba border post between Egypt and Israel

We got stopped behind stainless steel big pop up barriers with a soldier a few meters back clothed in Nike running shoes, cargo pants, golf T-shirt and a pair of Oakley sunglasses. To finish off his cool army look an assault rifle hanged from a strap around his neck. A real casual American-Desert-storm look. Well build, tall and with a short brush cut hair style, he never turned his back on the border entrance. He never stood still at one spot for more than 5 minutes, then walk backwards to his next spot, continuously having his gaze pegged on the border post.

Another security guy approached us with a smile and apologized beforehand that we might need to wait a bit for the customs officials to escorts us to have our bags checked. And then proceeded to offered us some water, ice cold water … Now that was a first for us! Just coming from a country where if you are not careful, you’ll get charged to take a breath, we were speechless.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QH9cMMh/0/L/i-QH9cMMh-L.gif)

Three very friendly customs’ women clothed in white shirts and black pants approached us. Good looking with black hair and the top of their shirts unbutton (well that is how I remember it …). We looked at each other in amazement … Was this Israel or some harem we just rode into?

Everything had to come off the bikes, but for us this Utopia we did not mind. A customs official/engineer rode our bikes through a big scanner to scan the entire bike. All other stuff and ourselves were scanned inside the air conditioned customs office.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lq93K8w/0/M/i-Lq93K8w-M.jpg)

Once inside, waiting for our passports to be stamped, one of the customs ladies asked me to wait as they had to do a check on my passport. That said, Elsebie’ and my passport are almost exactly the same, down to the visa stamps inside the book and the pages. Hers got stamped but not mine. I got asked to join one of the ladies in an interview room. “Where did you come from?” “Where are you going to?” “What were we doing in Sudan?” …………. aaaah!, it then hit me, and I realized what was up with the seriousness!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hkXmjLh/0/L/i-hkXmjLh-L.jpg)
Camping next to the Red sea and main road to Taba. Jordan lights in the distance. Closest we were able to get to Jordan.

I quickly explained we had to travel through Sudan to get to Israel. Not because I am Muslin, or Al Qaeda or on a mission to seek 70 virgins. Israel and Sudan do not have your average cosy relationship. The one is extreme Muslim and the other Jewish, well mostly.

If you travel from Israel to Sudan, you will not be let into Sudan if there is an Israeli visa stamp in your passport. The Israelis are quite decent about this and will not stamp a passport if they know a traveller will be going to Sudan. Israel though allows people coming from Sudan to enter Israel.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rHXCRP9/0/L/i-rHXCRP9-L.jpg)
Border in Sinai between Israel and Egypt.

Elsebie also had a Sudan visa and stamp in her book but the Israelis customs officials must have though she does not look as dodgy as me. They stamped her book on entry. The customs officials were friendly and courteous at all times, serving us ice-cold water all the time. A completely different attitude and scene to the Egyptians and most of African customs officials.

Two hours later and we were outside paying for full cover insurance on the bikes. A whopping, cool R2000-00 (200Euro’s) for the bikes for the week we will be in Israel. They demanded full comprehensive insurance cover for us and the bikes. We were initially planning to go to Jordan and not spend time in Israel. But with Jordan being anal retentive for some reason about bombers or spies on bikes and motorcycles we had to stay in Israel until the ferry leave for Italy.

It quickly dawned on us in the land of milk and honey, the milk and honey are super expensive. Petrol was around R22-00 (22Euro’s)per liter and everything else even in Supermarkets was much more expensive than in South Africa. Hostels and backpackers with very basic rooms go for around R450-00 (45Euro’s)per night for room only. One bit of luck was than we were able to wild camp about everywhere, and that in a country where there is war all around you.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MP3ckzp/0/L/i-MP3ckzp-L.jpg)

The strange thing about Israel is that there is absolute freedom of movement. There is war all right, make no mistake, but people go about their business and lives as if in Europe. No road blocks or paranoid soldiers as we found in Africa and especially Egypt.

Everything is from the US army, the Hummers, helicopters, most attack planes, rifles the works. Israelis if they could choose, I think, would be in America, their love for the American lifestyle is evident everywhere.

We slept the first night just inside the border of Israel near Taba on the beach. There was a buzz of people who were camping on the beach for weeks on end. Diving establishments were strewn out next to the coast line. People left their belongings in the tents when they went to town or diving. It did not seem that theft was an issue in Israel. I am sure petty theft must happen though.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qkr2t2T/0/L/i-qkr2t2T-L.jpg)
Wildcamp Arava desert

We worked our way up north Sinai next to the Egypt and Israel border to get more into the desert. The idea was to get away from the normal tourist route and at the same time see what this beautiful desert has to offer. It did not disappoint. Mountains, dry valleys and different coloured sands greeted us.

There’s nothing boring about it and with the many small paths leading off the main road into the desert we wish we had more map information to follow some of them. The road eventually leads us to Mitzpe Ramon a small town in the Negev desert of southern Israel. This was the first and last time we filled with petrol in Israel. The petrol is just too damn expensive and our speed dropped to 80kmh.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-r2j8Qct/0/L/i-r2j8Qct-L.jpg)

On our last night in the desert we ended up late the evening on a mountain top with the road snaking down the side of the mountain towards the Dead sea. It was a stunning view over the desert with mountains and the setting sun over the Dead Sea in the distance. We were uncomfortably close to an army base.

Helicopters were passing over head every two hours as they circle the army base. We figured if they really did not want us there they would come and chase us, until then we camp. The amount of money wasted on fuel with helicopters circling an army base 24/7 must be exorbitant.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-c86cRnp/0/L/i-c86cRnp-L.jpg)
At about sea level with the Dead sea 400m below
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: mox on February 06, 2015, 02:04:09 pm
Egypt sounds like it is full of Vogons !

Really enjoying this RR.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 09, 2015, 10:46:53 am
The Dead Sea is 400 meters below sea level and made for a great view as we descend the mountain road. At first there were a constant white haze hanging over the place, but at some point it cleared and we were rewarded with a view of Jordan on the other side of the Dead Sea.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pkgDD5P/0/L/i-pkgDD5P-L.jpg)

Our camp for the next few days was at Ein Gedi. It is a wonderful small camping and swim spot halfway up the Dead Sea. There are ablution facilities that are not too shabby, trees and a small shop managed by a South African dude with long hair.   

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HwNK9WB/0/M/i-HwNK9WB-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dDxnFXm/0/L/i-dDxnFXm-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-T8j2TPw/0/M/i-T8j2TPw-M.jpg)(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8758N5W/0/M/i-8758N5W-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QLLn9H3/0/M/i-QLLn9H3-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sM2CcxS/0/M/i-sM2CcxS-M.jpg)
Shrines for bikers who ran out of talent while superbiking down the curvy road to the Dead sea.
   
Motorcyclist memorial statues. They build some elaborate memorials for the fallen nest to the road. We got told Israel has a very high motorcycle accident rate. That’s why we had to take out such expensive insurance.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8RCmVn3/0/L/i-8RCmVn3-L.jpg)

Some weathered ‘Jesus’ look-a-like souls were wondering around the place living in tents that’s most probably been there since the 1960’s. We were convinced they tried to live the life of Jesus. Living of the land and the goodness and handouts (which obviously did not include razors) from strangers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VMkrm4S/0/L/i-VMkrm4S-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fjqhM2h/0/L/i-fjqhM2h-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tqQD39k/0/L/i-tqQD39k-L.jpg)

This was not a typical sea beach and people were draped around and over the rocks like seals bathing in the sun. There were a mix of locals and tourist drifting around in the Dead Sea. Swimming, or for a better word drifting around in the Dead Sea is a wonderfully weird experience.

The salt water burns the hell out of your eyes and taste is of over saturated salt water. It leaves a soft oily feeling on the skin well until it dries! Clean water is a must for dousing the eyes and mouth every now and then. It is impossible to sink or even try and go under water no matter what you weigh. It is the same as a wine cork in water just bobbing around.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gvqtw7d/0/L/i-gvqtw7d-L.jpg)

The funniest scenes are when people turn on their stomachs and their asses pop up into the air. Nothing sexy looking about it and not much one can do about it.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6vn2Bm5/0/M/i-6vn2Bm5-M.jpg)

Jerusalem waiting. We still had a week to spend before we had to board the ship to Italy.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 10, 2015, 02:56:09 pm


If the image in your head is of a religious conservative, bombed to hell, backwards Arab, Christian struggling dump with rubbish buildings and poverty Israel. You would be very wrong.

The road to Jerusalem is a short distance highway from Ein Gedi. It’s a busy city, clean and organised with decent roads and many religious tourists on the streets that came to Israel searching for divine inspiration.

We have lost all our Jerusalem pictures from the SD cards and most of Israel. These pictures are some we were able to bring back from the dead with recovery software. BACK UP, BACK UP, BACK UP!!!!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-S9SDgZk/0/L/i-S9SDgZk-L.jpg)
Won't say it's in Israel?

My GPS maps were not working properly. We had the idea of finding a hostel or backpackers close to the Old city and then walk there for the afternoon for some sightseeing. As we circled the Old city with its maze of small roads and no-entry signs we suddenly found ourselves smack in the middle of the Old city.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Xk4pjkF/0/L/i-Xk4pjkF-L.jpg)
Colourful, noisy Tel-Aviv street markets offers anything from hippy sexy underwear to fresh produce.

The deep noise from our bikes exhaust pipes drew some irritated stares from bystanders while we rode into the Old city. There were police walking around chasing cars out of the Old city but lucky for us not bikes. The roads inside the Old city are small cobble ways and not really made for cars.

Some bikes were parked next to the one wall and we quickly pushed our bikes next to them. I caught the eye of one policeman and asked whether our bikes would be safe while we explore the Old City, to which he replied that they are there all day and pointed out some of the cameras around.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HN3BJrM/0/L/i-HN3BJrM-L.jpg)

The Old city is like a busy beehive on Meth’s. Overcrowded with tourist and religious visitors pushing and shoving through the small streets. Some groups praying on street corners and around ancient relics. And of course like many other such places scattered with small shops selling plastic tourist stuff, cell phone paraphernalia and cheap China fake religious made rosaries. Genuine authentic never to be repeat 2000 year old rugs and papyrus scrolls are on offer at discount prices.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000692-1-1024x849.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000694-1-1024x867.jpg)
Tel Aviv murals. Street art is not your average rubbish.

The Muslim community sees the Old city as theirs and the Jewish community as theirs. And with that, both live and work there every day in seeming harmony. We might miss some of the nuances of love towards each other. As for them, they might not feel so brotherly towards each other but that was how it came over for us.

The prayer wall was worth visiting. It is stuffed with small pieces of paper into each crack and crevice in reach of people. Whether religious or not, it is the one thing in Jerusalem that is a must see.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000608-1-2-1024x770.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000645-1-1024x754.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000474A1.jpg)
American Western lifestyle is much loved in Israel.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000592A1.jpg)
Tel-Aviv is very cosmopolitan and hip.

Just a short stay in the Old city we decided to head for Tel-Aviv. We were told that Tel-Aviv is a groovy hip happening spot. Tel-Aviv’s greatest allure is unquestionably its Mediterranean seashore, which gives the city a Miami- or Rio-style sense of ease and openness. Some people even tried to convince us Tel-Aviv is a small New York city. I will not go that far.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000637A1.jpg)
Streets of Tel-Aviv Yafo

On our way into Tel-Aviv a man on a scooter passed us, big grin on his face waving his hand gesturing for us to pull off the road. We have just stopped and before having time to get off the bikes he came over and introduced himself as Jakob Samuel, art dealer, avid biker and traveller. He invited us to the only BMW motorcycle repair shop in Tel-Aviv.

In typical exuberant travellers fashion we were chattering away like old friends that saw each other for the first time in years. Sharing stories and advice while enjoying the coffee and biscuits he served. More of Jakob’s friends joined us later on, all of them a friendly bunch of people.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on February 10, 2015, 06:31:59 pm
Jewish and Arab girls  :drif:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 11, 2015, 10:29:13 am
Jewish and Arab girls  :drif:

But the Spanish girl, wait also the Portuguese woman, no wait, also the Austrian girls  8) :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Welsh on February 11, 2015, 10:41:54 am
Jewish and Arab girls  :drif:

But the Spanish girl, wait also the Portuguese woman, no wait, also the Austrian girls  8) :biggrin:

Careful, you can get into trouble here.... :peepwall:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 12, 2015, 09:51:30 am
Jewish and Arab girls  :drif:

But the Spanish girl, wait also the Portuguese woman, no wait, also the Austrian girls  8) :biggrin:

Careful, you can get into trouble here.... :peepwall:

She agrees  8) :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Jakkals on February 12, 2015, 09:58:26 am
Maar die antie hou lekker vas.  :imaposer: :imaposer: :imaposer:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 12, 2015, 10:01:50 am
Jakob took us to a small hostel cum backpackers in the centre of the city close to the beach. Very basic but livable and good for our stay while waiting to catch the boat to Italy. It gave us the change to explore this gritty part of the city. Israel is not cheap, in fact it is one of the more expensive countries that we have come across.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000544A1.jpg)

Momos hostel charge per room was 45Euro’s night. Africa in comparison is really cheap to travel, even South Africa in comparison is cheaper to travel that Israel.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000690A1.jpg)

Tel-Aviv’s cosmopolitan feel rubs off on you quite quick. The warm Mediterranean buzz is all around. Café’s on the ocean along the promenade in Tel-Aviv, a variety of restaurants offering falafel’s, shawarma’s, Rugelach and Sufganiyot, Ice Cream Bars and open air markets. Tel Aviv was genuinely delicious city with much to offer.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000664-1.jpg)

We took to the roads and was pleasantly surprised at the huge amount of street markets around. Local cuisine, sweets, art works, clothes, spices and anything handmade was on offer. Tel Aviv is definitely a more open-minded city cosmopolitan city compared to the others we visited. Dress code is more relaxed and beaches filled with tanned bodies.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000560A1.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000586-1-1024x842.jpg)

We spend a few days around the promenade and on the beach. The sunsets over the mediterranean sea are some of the best we have seen and with the pleasant warm weather the evening drinking beers on beach went down well.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000639A1.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000650A1.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000572A1.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: I&horse on February 12, 2015, 07:35:22 pm
So the heading changed from hello Africa to around the world. Care to divulge your plans?

Really enjoying the rr  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 13, 2015, 10:36:22 am
Thanks so much I&Horse  :thumleft:

Our initial plans was to just go to Europe. It was at the time nogal a daunting thought, you know dark Africa and all. But then halfway through Elsebie and myself decided fuck it! This can't stop. So go slower, get stuck into a place and try and rub shoulders with the world. This has now turned into a permanent odyssey and if all goes well we would be able to keep on going around the world permanently.
We are not planning to set records or just get the stamps to say we have run into a place to get the picture. Our aim is to really try and experience a country properly.

We would love some feedback, stuff you can't want to talk about, questions anything. Maybe something might be of value or entice an adventure  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 16, 2015, 12:13:25 pm
(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000700A1.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000696-1-1024x844.jpg)

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(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000685A1.jpg)

Our last evening we wanted to spend on a beach near Ashdod the city where we were to board the Ro-Ro vehicle boat, the Grimaldi lines to Italy. While stocking up on food at a local supermarket in Ashdod some people got talking to us and eventually advised us not to go camping lower down than Ashdod. They said Hamas was bombing the area just below Ashdod from Gaza. Since we knew absolutely nothing about the dynamics of this issue we decided to stay in Ashdod.

Dodging bombs in a tent might not work that well.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/000709A1.jpg)

Early morning and we had to go through all the questioning from the customs people at the harbour.The Israeli customs people are the friendliest and most competent people we have had to deal with from all the countries we travelled so far. They are super strict due to the issues in the country but all friendly and efficient. For now it is a slow 5 days on the boat enjoying Italian cooking 3 times a day. This is not a ferry or passenger ship so we ate what the crew got. And it was good food with wine.

It was the end of our trip through Africa and 11 months in total. We were excited to get into Europe for what it has to offer.

Reminiscing about Africa, we had some stunning experiences and time in Africa. The people of Africa, the travellers we have met and are friends with most of them because of it. We will travel Africa again, that is a given!

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/04/000712-1-1024x791.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Gérrard on February 16, 2015, 12:29:15 pm
Great ervarings en lekker om dit met julle mee te maak. Hou aan skryf.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 16, 2015, 12:42:41 pm
Thanks Jupiter. Moet net gou opvang om die nuwes te post. Daar is nog baie  :deal: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 17, 2015, 11:46:01 am
We have never been on a Caribbean cruise tour and thought this would make up nicely for that. :eek7:
I mean 4 days of real Italian food, our own Captain guest room and our own butler calle Luigi. Now Luigi is a short stocky fattish Italian man with a bit of a boep. Half bald and his neck hair and back hair are one continues carpet. He wears black suit pants with black pointe shoes and a white slightly dirty and sweaty shoulderless undervest.

But he is one cool dude and did well to spoil us with wine and espresso at a moments notice. We ate with the Captain 3 times a day and every time it was a 4 course full on Italian meal. F-knows how they go and work after such a meal every time, and there are only 20 mean on the ship.

The stately room turned out to be no bigger than a F1 Hotel room with and no view.

We were the only customers on the Ro-Ro (car carrier ship) It might not be common knowledge but it is possible for the public to book on a Ro-Ro or cargo ship as they normally have a few rooms, like 2 or so Captains/Owners guest rooms. No frills and your trip can go for weeks on long hauls without TV or Internet but it is not that expensive and a cool adventure when looking for something different.

So we boarded the 12 storey building "Gran Bretagna" from the Grimaldi Lines, it's fucking massive!! Down right scary big. This thing can carry thousands of cars, trucks and other big machines. The floors can move up or down to fit in even more cars.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sjHnDMf/0/M/i-sjHnDMf-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-k7T4vdL/0/M/i-k7T4vdL-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7pkcCQb/0/M/i-7pkcCQb-M.jpg)
Our own living room for the journey.

The route was from Ashdod Israel to Cyprus, back to Alexandria and then to Salerno Italy.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HpL8F2w/0/M/i-HpL8F2w-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fvKwZ3R/0/M/i-fvKwZ3R-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-r98prLx/0/M/i-r98prLx-M.jpg)
Poor bastard who decided to ship his bike from Egypt. That bike will not get to it's destination unscathed.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nMrDPxT/0/M/i-nMrDPxT-M.jpg)
Alexandria Egypt. The Captain told us everytime the harbour pilot comes out they must throw boxes of cigarettes overboard as bribe otherwise they will just leave them outside the harbour. And for them time is big money.

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(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HdCKbJP/0/L/i-HdCKbJP-L.jpg)
Cyprus art

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wKR2Pnc/0/M/i-wKR2Pnc-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mXCvmzv/0/L/i-mXCvmzv-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-z27b6Rm/0/M/i-z27b6Rm-M.jpg)
In Cyprus an elderly gentleman also got onboard as passenger. He told us he has been around the world as passenger on cargo and ro-ro ships and has been doing this for his entire life. That day was also evacuation drill day.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ph9jwCZ/0/L/i-ph9jwCZ-L.jpg)

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Amalfi coast Italy.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KdvV9qw/0/L/i-KdvV9qw-L.jpg)
Solero harbour Italy
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: mox on February 18, 2015, 01:33:31 pm
Awesome !
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 18, 2015, 02:13:36 pm
(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-211-1024x538.jpg)
Pulling into Salerno late afternoon

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/travel_map_of_italy-solerno-1024x941.jpg)

The Gran Bretagna docked late in the afternoon in Solerno, a small coastal town on the West coast of Italy. We have been sleeping and eating the time away on the Ro-Ro for 4 days since leaving Ashdod in Israel.

Almost R12000-00 (950-00Eu) bought us an inside cabin with 3 meals a day and passage for the motorcycles. The Ro-Ro is a bulk vehicle carrier with only a few cabins for passengers. This arrangement allows normal people to travel with most cargo ships around the world at a fraction of the cost of a cruise ship. Bear in mind there are no TV or WiFi or such luxuries on board and you have to have time to waste, as a typical trip will last weeks for far away destinations.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-22.jpg)

Being on an Italian ship we were treated to some of the best Italian cuisine. We were allowed to enjoy wine with our meals while the rest of the crew had to make due with non-alcoholic beverages. It is a working vessel and thus no such luxuries for the crew.

Lunch and dinner was a 5-course setting with salami’s, pasta and gnocchi as part of the delicious spread. The chef was part of the look,  and typical to such vessels an unkempt, unshaven, fat Italian with a dirty white apron over a worn, fat and oiled stained sleeveless undershirt, black pants pulled over his navel, stopping short of his arm pits.  Always friendly and constantly offering us more food than what we were able to consume.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-9.jpg)

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/ledlenser-light-300x267.jpg)
Make shift headlight from our LEDLENSER headlamp

Unlike Africa’s bureaucracy, some idiocies and obsessions over paper work and the need to see an official stamp, Italy and, it seems Europe, had very little issue with trivial things like paperwork. Just after dark we made our way out of the Ro-Ro and stopped at the docks awaiting the officials’ stamp for our motorcycles’ paper work.  One customs official eventually told me in very short broken English sentences that there was no need for paper work for the bikes.  Zero, Nada, Zilch, you are free to go!  I protested, saying the Carabinieri will stop us and then I won’t be able to prove where the bikes came from, let alone stolen or something to that effect.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-10.jpg)

You go, you go! No paperwork! And so my fears were waved away with a go signal from his hand and a smile.

At that stage the motorcycles were not at all in a road going condition. My indicators were not working, Elsebie’s bike’s headlight were not working and a myriad of other issues.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-18.jpg)

Most people told us that in Europe the police take no prisoners when it comes to roadworthiness of vehicles. Our loud exhausts and part non-functioning bikes would get us into serious trouble.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-23.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on February 18, 2015, 02:44:05 pm
Still following with deep interest  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 18, 2015, 02:45:24 pm
Thanks J-dog. Really appreciate to see some at least enjoy this rumblings :D
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on February 18, 2015, 02:49:57 pm
Thanks J-dog. Really appreciate to see some at least enjoy this rumblings :D

I know that many, many others are following your amazing adventure  :)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on February 18, 2015, 02:50:45 pm
Got any more pics of Israeli girls?  :drif: :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: dirtyXT on February 18, 2015, 02:58:57 pm
 :thumleft: yeah man, we dont comment after each post but are reading and waiting in anticipation for the next one!!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 18, 2015, 03:11:23 pm
Got any more pics of Israeli girls?  :drif: :ricky:

Not ones I am allowed to post, JDog :D

Thanks dirtyXT. I understand forums are difficult and is not as easy as LIKE from facebook, then at least you know people are watching and not posting for nothing. Honestly is good to know people enjoy the post and if only it get somebody off the couch or be as inspiration to somebody to start and plan an adventure then it's cool.  :thumleft: :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Rodlau on February 18, 2015, 11:42:18 pm
This is great. Never had much desire to visit Egypt, but now absolutely no desire.  Pity about the disaster of the photo loss.  I suppose backups of backups is not so dumb after all

Thanks for the effort in the posting of this great adventure. 
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 19, 2015, 02:47:22 pm
It was well after dark when we decided to fit our LED Lenzer headlight to the front of Elsebie’s bike’s wind screen and use it as a headlight.  The small little headlight’s beam turned out to be too powerful, as traffic from the front kept flashing their headlights at her. It worked and got us to the hotel in the small town.
(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-12.jpg)

First day in Italy.

We could not have asked for a more perfect place and time to land in Italy and experience our first day in the country of exotic machines, pizza’s and The Mafia.

While I went back to the customs officials to clarify and make sure we indeed did not need paperwork for the bikes,  Elsebie had a bit of time to plan our route for the day. It turned out we were right at the start of the popular and scenic Amalfi coastline. Landscapes of towering bluffs and pastel-hued villages terraced into hillsides, precipitous cornice roads with luxuriant gardens, and expansive vistas over turquoise waters and green-swathed mountains.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-242-1024x703.jpg)

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-13.jpg)

Vietri sul Mare is a village known for its ceramics and in particular its arty clay tiles and one that offers sweeping views of the beautiful jaw drop coastline. The road meanders past viewpoint after viewpoint. The one at Capo d’Orso may be the best of what we have seen and skirts the villages of Maiori and Minori, the ruins of a first-century A.D. Roman villa, before a junction close to Atrani whisks you inland to Ravello.

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Europe-travel/Italy-2012/i-KCLbnR5/1/L/italy_travel_overland_pikipiki_2012%20%28262%29-L.jpg)

(http://oates.smugmug.com/Motorcycles/Europe-travel/Italy-2012/i-Z4msZDh/0/L/italy_travel_overland_pikipiki_2012%20%28235%29-L.jpg)
Small cafe's all along the way packed with weekend bikers.

The views are breath taking and spectacularly beautiful. The pace is slow with people sipping coffee and beers at road side restaurants and coffee shops.  I think we could easily get swallowed up in to this lifestyle and spend a life time around these parts, never getting bored or used to the views, smells and sights.
(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-14.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: ROOI on February 19, 2015, 03:06:30 pm
Damn this is a nice read keep them coming  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: evansv on February 19, 2015, 04:05:39 pm
 :sip:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 19, 2015, 04:11:10 pm
Jewish and Arab girls  :drif:

Sorry Jdog, these are all I was able to recover ;D

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CCMRdJg/0/L/i-CCMRdJg-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fpjXZNZ/0/L/i-fpjXZNZ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-htSKzMr/1/L/i-htSKzMr-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9bb7WPC/1/L/i-9bb7WPC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vSDQN9S/1/L/i-vSDQN9S-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-S92rbwX/1/L/i-S92rbwX-L.jpg)
We are not big city people but Tel Aviv is a really groovy hip city.

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 19, 2015, 04:11:47 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2v58DgT/1/L/i-2v58DgT-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-795HwRH/1/L/i-795HwRH-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TqjPt9Q/1/L/i-TqjPt9Q-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-td6GvhX/1/L/i-td6GvhX-L.jpg)

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 19, 2015, 04:13:39 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RmS9g5c/1/L/i-RmS9g5c-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8vK6S6Z/1/L/i-8vK6S6Z-L.jpg)

And a Saffer

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jMq6qQR/0/L/i-jMq6qQR-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: P.K. on February 20, 2015, 09:05:49 am
Hey Michnus....FUKKIN AWESOME trip. Have been following your travels with interest, but not really into posting on this or any forum but felt you needed to know that your efforts and reports are followed keenly on this forum. You probably won`t remember me, but I made your bike bags before your Angola trip. If I remember correctly your and Eric came to us with specs and we made up the bags....The Tarpaulin Factory in East London. Didn`t charge you enough if I remember correctly   !!....it was early days in the business and we were desperate for business.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 20, 2015, 09:42:21 am
Hey Michnus....FUKKIN AWESOME trip. Have been following your travels with interest, but not really into posting on this or any forum but felt you needed to know that your efforts and reports are followed keenly on this forum. You probably won`t remember me, but I made your bike bags before your Angola trip. If I remember correctly your and Eric came to us with specs and we made up the bags....The Tarpaulin Factory in East London. Didn`t charge you enough if I remember correctly   !!....it was early days in the business and we were desperate for business.

Wiele P.K! Thanks so much for the feedback.  :thumleft:

Hahaha, I remember you well, and those bags served us for a looooong time man! In fact you did not charged us enough, but I can honestly tell you they were tough bags and we still have them.  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 20, 2015, 01:10:08 pm
It is a Sunday and the motorcycle riders are out in force, marvelling in the twist and turns of the roads that hang onto the cliffs. The roads are winding, narrow, and challenging to drive. Add in drop-dead views and daring Italian drivers and riders known for their driving bravado.  Most are exotic naked bikes with fashion consciously dressed men and woman in high heels and summer dresses whizzing past on Vespa’s and Piaggio’s.

We were unable to spend a few days at the Amalfi coast as we had to head up to Rome. But we will for sure have to return to stay there for a week or a month or a year or so, to fully appreciate the beauty and people.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SFPHfK9/1/L/i-SFPHfK9-L.jpg)

It is not cheap and for South Africans it can quickly suck a wallet dry. As it was, at the start of winter most camp sites close down and we were forced to stay in cheap hotels every now and then.  The cheap is not the problem, but for SA travellers their cheap is not our cheap. With a bit of effort we found some campsites that were still open where people camped with camper vans and not our poverty-spec tent camping budget and equipment.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-16.jpg)
Camping at Pompeii camp Zeus

Close to Napoli we came across a campsite called Camp Zues for 38Eu for the stand per day.  It is in walking distance of the Pompeii forum.  This is the tourist route, but we were there and had to go and see where our civilization came from. We take it as: do some must-sees, and some see-what-happens.

From there we could take the train to Naples, the birthplace of the famous pizza and the sex museum and other more boring museums to see as well.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1.jpg)
Cheap red wine, pasta, cheese and bread

Food bought from supermarkets are relatively well priced and of good quality. We soon found wine for 2-00Eu and enjoyed with bread and salami makes for a great dinner. Pastas and fresh vegetables are on offer from small independent shops.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-25.jpg)
Proper fish monger

Pizza is far from the only food Naples does well. Its fritti (fried offerings), seafood, and pastas are some of the best. The confectioneries, if you have a tooth for pastries, are beautifully made and taste just as good.

Ask most people in Italy what they think of Napoli and they conjure up images of a garbage crisis and Mafia, runaway crime rates with pickpockets and bullets flying in the street. Napoli is a chaotic city, gritty, dirty but full of life.

(http://pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/italy-1-19.jpg)
narrow streets of Napoli...Naples.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 20, 2015, 01:20:43 pm
Part of the reason we travel is to seek to understand the beauties, the mysteries and the differences of our world. The beauties for us in cities like Napoli are the absence of the likes of the traditional malls we have in South Africa.

Street shops owned by individuals or passed down in the family do business next to each other with a lively buzz and healthy competition. None of the same boring retail chain brands you find in every bloody mall in SA with the same stuff on offer and any new offerings pressed out by the big ego driven retail brands.

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Stores and shops rarely open before 10am. Everything closes again around midday, not to reopen until 3 or 4pm. In the evening, the streets in the centre come alive.

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The museums we have visited thus far are all well maintained and the information easy to use. It is in stark contrast to the museums in Cairo where photos are not allowed and the place is stuffy and the artefacts not properly marked with little or no information.

The National Archaeological Museum is one of the best to visit if you had to choose one. Secret Museum or Secret Cabinet (Gabinetto Segreto) principally refers to the collection of erotic or sexually explicit finds from Pompeii, held in separate the former Museo Borbonico.

Rather strange that they were so open about sex at the time one would have thought them to be more conservative. Yet in our age Janet Jackson slips a nipple on stage and the USA faints in disgust.

Just a bit much to post here but the history of the erotic depicting of the gods is on Wiki.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secret_Museum,_Naples (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Secret_Museum,_Naples)

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Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 20, 2015, 01:27:18 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kJMzQmv/0/L/i-kJMzQmv-L.jpg)
They were a bunch of violent sexual fuckers.

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Stop looking up old mens frock

It was surreal to wander through the elegant halls lined with works by El Greco and Cara
vaggio, Roman sculptures from the Farnese collection and 18th-century furnishings.

Did the pizza in Napoli live up to the standards? Well yes, but that said, some South African pizza places make damn well much better pizzas.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 20, 2015, 01:32:18 pm
Pompeii ruins are a must see, just because it's so old and that they mastered to build such places in that time. The entire Napoli is build on old ruins.
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The mosaic artwork is something to behold. Very fine and small tiny tiles must have taken them years to complete.

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Jaakmh on February 23, 2015, 11:34:33 am
Truly inspiring RR!!

Please sir?.................."can I have some more"?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 23, 2015, 02:51:22 pm
Truly inspiring RR!!

Please sir?.................."can I have some more"?

 :thumleft: :deal:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 23, 2015, 03:17:25 pm

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/why-you-must-travel-italy-by-motorcycle-e1421348044483.jpg)

There’s probably an endless list of reasons why travelling Italy by motorcycle should be on any persons bucket list. For good measure I will list just five reasons.

We could not in our wildest dreams imagine the variety, cultural diversity and beauty of Italy. One great experience seduces you into the next with a bit of a feeling that resembles Alexithymia.

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One:
Nothing much beats roadside lunches and wild camping where possible, with a bottle or two of Italy’s finest 2 Euro wines bought from local shops. There are obviously much better quality wines that does not cost an arm and a leg. We found the cheapies very pleasant with a fruity bouquet and easy on the pallet.  I am just talking rubbish, I know bugger all about wine tasting! It’s good wine and will get you drunk quite quick. Add some cheese, fresh bread with olive oil and all is well in the world.

Enjoying views and the breathtaking sunsets over Tuscany while sitting outside a tent is the only way – not from inside a stuffy hotel room.
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Best lunches on route.

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roma

Coming from Napoli into Rome we stayed with Andrea and his son Massimo in their cool apartment close to the centre of town. Andreas went to great lengths updating us on the places to see, routes to take and places to avoid. The evenings spent with him and his son were great fun.

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Andreas and Massimo, our hospitable hosts in Rome.
 
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Parking is limited and the bikes had to bunk with other bikes on the sidewalk.

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Wine and cake for dinner.

When visiting Rome it is better to stay on the outskirts where locals reside and visit their hang-out places in the evening. Rome itself is crazy busy with tourists right through the year.

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Beautiful Rome.
With a vigorous and brisk walking pace the most popular part of Rome can be seen in 3 to 4 days.  For somebody loving old churches and buildings,  months would be needed to really take in the beauty of Rome.

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Most of the famous Rome attractions in this photo.

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On this day the Pope gave a speech and told everybody to be good people and pay their tithe to the church. Click to open.

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The Colosseum is probably the most impressive building of the Roman Empire. Originally known as the Flavian Amphitheater, it was the largest building of the era.
Two….
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 10:40:01 am
Two:
Sharing Italy’s biker’s passion for riding and weaving through traffic in Rome and other Italian cities is a selcouth experience for people who normally avoid traffic and cities. The bike crazy Italians make space for motorcycles and allow scooters and bikers to freely flow through the congested streets. Being on a motorcycle makes sightseeing so much easier and parking is for free! Unlike the scary myths, riding in Rome is actually safer and easier than fighting Cairo or Nairobi traffic.

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Officially known as the Monumento Nazionale a Vittorio Emanuele II, the enormous white marble monument that dominates Piazza Venezia was built as a tribute to the first king of a united Italy, Victor Emmanuel II.

Having the motorcycles as transport is the absolute best way exploring cities. Easy to get around and never having to spend hours in a car or bus trying to fight traffic. We lock the helmets on the bike and only use a small backpack to carry the camera and a bottle of water.

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Stitched 8 photos to make this panorama. Built more than 1800 years ago, the magnificent Pantheon still stands as a reminder of the great Roman Empire. The name Pantheon refers to the building’s original function as a temple for all the gods.

The short rules for Italy….

If there’s bread on the table do not eat it or you will pay a small amount of gold in ransom. Entrees and bottles of water is normally expensive and not freebies. Many restaurants out of the tourist area serve a set menu (menu fisso) and do not have choices of single serving dishes. It’s really big meals and the need to sleep afterwards overwhelming. Outside seating at restaurants are normally charged at a small fee. Out of season most times they will not charge the fee.  Out of tourist areas it’s not an issue at all.

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Yes even a pyramid! The Pyramid of Caius Cestius was built around 12 BC by praetor Caius Cestius as his tomb. The pyramid was later integrated into the Aurelian Wall, which helped its preservation.

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The Piazza di Spagna is one of the most popular tourist locations in Rome. People spend time relaxing on the steps watching other people eating icecream and laughing at tourist taking pictures with their phones and 11'Ipads. The famous Spanish Steps lead from the square to the Trinità dei Monti, a beautiful French church.

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Cool water fountains around the city
Three………
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Andre E on February 24, 2015, 10:48:43 am
Hey drol! Wanneer kom drink jy weer 'n bier?
                          ;D
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 10:55:08 am
fok waneer ek weer jou rigting gaan  :lol8:

moet kak klaar maak wil April tot Okt gaan gatskuur rondom Turkey  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: funacide on February 24, 2015, 10:57:39 am
Hey drol! Wanneer kom drink jy weer 'n bier?
                          ;D

I second that one.... Hey Drol, I hear you come and visit some people in JHB/PTA but I never hear from you to have a drink!!

I am really enjoying the read!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Xpat on February 24, 2015, 11:09:49 am
Great report Michnus. I'm almost starting to like Europe that I normally avoid like a plague (I'm from there)  ;D
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Andre E on February 24, 2015, 12:05:45 pm
Hey drol! Wanneer kom drink jy weer 'n bier?
                          ;D

I second that one.... Hey Drol, I hear you come and visit some people in JHB/PTA but I never hear from you to have a drink!!

I am really enjoying the read!!

Vandat sy foto in BikeSa was, hang hy mos nie meer met ons gewone plebs rond nie...... :peepwall:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: King Louis on February 24, 2015, 12:30:23 pm
Hey Michnus, I greet you. Only now managed to catch up with your stories. Thanks for sharing......beats most books anyhow. Just got to make sure to charge your pc/tablet for the load shedding evenings these days....

Great report, keep it coming.... :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 03:25:46 pm
Hey drol! Wanneer kom drink jy weer 'n bier?
                          ;D

I second that one.... Hey Drol, I hear you come and visit some people in JHB/PTA but I never hear from you to have a drink!!

I am really enjoying the read!!

Will mos never not get you for a beer before we leave.  :biggrin: :thumleft:  Will be there for a week or so before we leave.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 03:26:48 pm
Hey drol! Wanneer kom drink jy weer 'n bier?
                          ;D

I second that one.... Hey Drol, I hear you come and visit some people in JHB/PTA but I never hear from you to have a drink!!

I am really enjoying the read!!

Vandat sy foto in BikeSa was, hang hy mos nie meer met ons gewone plebs rond nie...... :peepwall:

Glad you did not say BikerLifestyle  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 03:28:27 pm
Great report Michnus. I'm almost starting to like Europe that I normally avoid like a plague (I'm from there)  ;D

Man Eu is dead easy and no dirt but it is so different from Africa that it is actually farking groovy and nice to trip there.  :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 03:29:05 pm
Hey Michnus, I greet you. Only now managed to catch up with your stories. Thanks for sharing......beats most books anyhow. Just got to make sure to charge your pc/tablet for the load shedding evenings these days....

Great report, keep it coming.... :thumleft:

There's a load more I must still gooi. Thanks KL  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 03:30:17 pm
Some more pictures of life in Rome. One thing about the locals, they really dress up.

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Nice paintings  :biggrin:

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Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 24, 2015, 03:40:55 pm
Motorcycles and scooters are biiiiiig in Rome and contrary to popular believe actually quite safe and easy to get around on a bike.

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Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 25, 2015, 03:46:12 pm
Three:
Ride the back country roads. The inviting, easy going nature of Italians will quickly have you gorging on fresh toasted bread, drenched in proper, freshly pressed Olive oil. As usual, custom is washing it down with a shot of espresso. On a bike you are not a tourist but a traveller. Well, that’s the impression we got.

The time and weather to camp and be in Italy was fast turning against us. We had no winter clothes and our tent and sleeping stuff was made for hot climates – not European winter. Andreas gave us directions to an olive farm on our way to Bologna. As always it is best to set the GPS to stay off highways and toll roads, and shorter distance not faster route. The imbecilic manner in which the GPS software calculates the route actually works well when wanting to stick to back roads and experience the local scenes.

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The friendly folke at this local small Olive oil press roasted us some bread and then covered with fresh Olive oil.

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It is an old farm and how it works is like this. Do not think big ass Olive farms. It's all small farmers. They bring their Olives to this press and get inline with the others. As it's press it's pumped into their own containers.

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Wild Boar salami, fresh bread, olive oil and espresso. Life is good

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On our way to Florence (or Firenze as more famously known) we pass the Hotel Passo della Futa high up on the Apennines midway between Bologna and Florence. Cyclists have used this road and bar for almost a century and the bar is decked with photos and memorabilia of the greatest cyclists of the post-war era, Fausto Coppi and Gino Bartali.

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Famous restaurant on the pass where the Miglia 1000 and other well known bicycle races are held since Jesus birth.

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Still cooking the old way inside the restaurant.

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passo del futa This is also the route taken by historic vehicles on the Mille Miglia rally in May every year, but not all of them made it to the top as it is a pretty tough climb, especially the hill climb from Florence.


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Albergo bar at Passo del Futo
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 25, 2015, 04:11:18 pm
Florence: È una bella città

Florence is one of Italy’s most beautiful cities.  It is also home to Michelangelo’s David (a copy of which) is standing on a hill overlooking the city. It is the city of mile-high stilettos, the majestic Duomo and romantic red-tiled rooftops. The only issue is it’s overrun with tourists.

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The statue of Michelangelo's David overlooking the city of Florence.

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View from the hill where the statue of David is overlooking Florence.

Florence’s Duomo is among Italy’s ‘Big Three’ with Pisa’s Leaning Tower and Rome’s Colosseum. Its red-tiled dome, graceful campanile (bell tower) and breathtaking pink, white and green marble facade is a sight to behold. Begun in 1296 by Sienese architect Arnolfo di Cambio, the cathedral took almost 150 years to complete.

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Duomo Florence.
 
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The work and tiles on the building of Duomo is seriously impressive for such an old building.

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Street vendors in Florence.

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Famous bridge in Florence.

Get in and get out as soon as possible. Stunning winding roads and the multi colours of Tuscany around Florence with it’s cheap red wines await.  Chianti Classico is the regions best vineyards.
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Cold and wet but still the best way to tour Italy. Camping near to the statue of David.

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Moscato – local Italian wine. Enjoying the late afternoon sunset over Florence.

Four…….
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Jag man on February 25, 2015, 04:54:19 pm
Wow jaw just dropped ,awsome pics.
 :3some: :3some:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 26, 2015, 09:55:09 am
Four:
Camping is the way to meet the real travellers and get up to date tips. Meeting new people in a hotel or B&B will likely not happen. People are more inclined to master up a chat with dirty faced bikers than trying to chat you up in a hotel. The same goes for us. It is easier to walk over to a man or woman sitting under their camper van awning and struck up a conversation than knocking on your neighbour’s door in a hotel.

The best travel advice,  routes,  places to see and stay was through fellow travellers in camp-sites who were interested in our bikes and shared their knowledge. It’s a good feeling to share your experiences with other travellers.

The city of Pisa is a short hop from Florence, Bologna and Tuscany. The small towns along the back roads in the region take you back in time.  It is unbelievable that buildings can be this well looked after for such a long time.

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Way off the beaten track – restaurants with warm hearted people.

It’s beautifully relaxing riding the narrow back roads to Pisa.  People go their way as if time stood still. It’s 10ish in the morning while people spend time in small bars drinking Vino Novello chatting the time away. Some restaurants only offer set menus and it is impossible to order separate dishes.

It makes sense as it’s small family owned restaurants and easier to make a set menu (menu fisso) than having a list of options. For us it is a problem as it’s impossible to eat all that food and still have to ride.

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Small town streets.

The back road restaurants are where the passion for eating and lovely owners chat to us as if we are long lost family members coming home for a meal. We got offered desserts for free and were kissed and hugged as if we were close family. We could only spend a day in Pisa.

The same old town narrow streets with the small bars and street markets are all over. It is busy, really busy! We were lucky that it was out of season and cold. It was relatively easy going with no crowds. The Campo dei Miracoli or, in English,  the Field of Miracles is home to the buildings that have made Pisa famous. The four most notable Pisan buildings are the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Cathedral (Duomo) of Pisa, the Baptistery, and the burial grounds of the Campo Santo.

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The four most notable Pisan buildings are the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Cathedral (Duomo) of Pisa and the Baptistery.

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Had to stitch a load of photos to get the size of this building inside.

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It is only when there, that you realise how much the tower is leaning. The other buildings are also in some state of sinking.

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Hail to the tower. All taking the same picture.

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Worthwhile spending a day there and wait till evening until the hordes of tourists have left. It is really great wandering these buildings at night with the lights on them and no people around.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Pistol on February 26, 2015, 10:19:51 am
Great reading Michnus :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: P.K. on February 26, 2015, 01:04:01 pm
 GREAT READ.....keep it coming broer. Worked in Italy about 25years ago teaching watersports just south of Salerno. Your pics are creating an itch that might need to be scratched. Thanks for the effort.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on February 27, 2015, 03:18:52 pm
On route to Venice we stopped over in Bologna and Fiorana, the home of Italian auto porn. If ever you visit Venice out of season you will dodge the festivals. Even without the crowds and while we were there in early winter, it was still stupid busy. It is a very romantic city but do not think you will spend time there or can even afford to eat there. It’s damn expensive.

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Sip slowly on that expensive espresso. Piazza del Marco, it was Elsebie's birthday and I had to give her an expensive gift. It turned out to be the espresso :D

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Piazza del Marco, this is where Bond, James bond drove his Gondola onto the piazza
We had an espresso at the Piazza San Marco that were R180-00 for us both. It was Elsebie’s birthday and we decided to splash a bit on wining and dining. Well the wine did not happen and the dine was a quick sandwich. We left the eating for the evening outside of Venice.

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Time to rest, Murano Polizia closed.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9623Zsb/0/M/i-9623Zsb-M.jpg)
Skillful glass workers produce the most striking glass in the world.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5RPKpPF/0/L/i-5RPKpPF-L.jpg)
The island of Murano is a short hop with a water taxi. The glass workshops of Murano conjure writhing chandeliers, swirling goblets and gem-bright jewellery from their red-hot furnaces.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vZnnmh3/0/L/i-vZnnmh3-L.jpg)
Artist makes a horse like this in a few minutes.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rb5SbTr/0/L/i-rb5SbTr-L.jpg)
Green grocer shop. Everything has to be brought in to Venice by boat.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jnbtd2W/0/L/i-jnbtd2W-L.jpg)
Real wood carvings. Impressive.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CrwLBmD/0/M/i-CrwLBmD-M.jpg)
Venice markets, fresh fish is big business.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FvsKW42/0/L/i-FvsKW42-L.jpg)
It is wonderful spending an afternoon hanging around an outside cafe. That is about as much fun to be had. And if you think taking your loved one on a romantic Gondola think again. It's something like R600-00 for 30min. F-knows why it's so expensive, I mean they run on pasta.  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lq2THpD/0/L/i-Lq2THpD-L.jpg)
Santa Maria della Salute

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-62SPkWM/0/M/i-62SPkWM-M.jpg)
There are busses, trains and taxis going to Venice which makes it easy to visit during the day and staying for less in hotels outside in Mestre. While in Mestre and at a hotel it was time to wash the kit. It did not have any cleaning since Sudan.  A few days’ stay in hotels do have it’s benefits.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-h8F8QNh/0/L/i-h8F8QNh-L.jpg)
I do not think there's one proper upright building in Venice, most are leaning to some degree.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-K5PbLKk/0/M/i-K5PbLKk-M.jpg)
Not having so many chances to clean kit. Washing the camping stuff in the hotel room while we have hot water and a heater to dry it properly.

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Kerritz on February 27, 2015, 03:21:35 pm
They run on pasta......... :imaposer: :spitcoffee: :lol8:
Title: Re:
Post by: dirtyXT on February 27, 2015, 04:32:34 pm
lucky lucky people. loving Italy
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: schalk vd merwe on February 28, 2015, 09:15:52 pm
Hi Michnus and Elsebie
I met you at an outdoor show last year at Voortrekkerhoogte and I also spoke to your wife Elsebe at Snow valley 2 years ago when you also just came back from your trip. First of all thanks  for a well written article and it does inspire a lot of people including me. My son and I traveled to the Equator and back in 2010 on a 13 350km trip so I know a bit about Africa. I intent to leave on a solo around the world trip in 8 weeks’ time. Originally I was going to do it in one go but because of financial constrains I am going to do it in stages like you and Elsabe. On the first leg I would like to make it up to Italy and 6 months later when it is summer in Europe again stage 2. I just have a couple of questions for you if you can help
1 With all the political problems in Africa at the moment what route would you recommend me to take along the east coast.( Indian Ocean side) I did not appreciate the way of driving in Nairobi the last time so I would rather pass through Mombasa this time.
2  When you traveled to Italy from Israel was it R 12000 for 2 bikes and 2 people. Will it cost half for 1 person.
3. How much does it cost in Italy per day for fuel, camping and food if you travel.
Hope you can help in some way and maybe we will bump in to each other somewhere along the way.
Kind regards Schalk
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 01, 2015, 11:54:26 am
Yebo yes! Schalk I remember you well.  :thumleft:

Doing the trip in stages is much better on the budget and you are doing it right! meaning you can spend as much time seeing, exploring and getting to know a country than racing through it while having to stick to a time frame. I follow many travelers and adding a time limit to a trip often leads to a hellova lot of stress and not much enjoyment. I can honestly tell you now from experience taking it slow is the absolute best way to get out the other side with a sane mind and wallet.

Also the people that rush an extended trip like this end up with ' selective memory syndrome'  :biggrin:. We have experienced it. Because you are not in a routine like your day to day job doing sort off the same thing everyday driving back and forth to work, your mind do not work the data and store it like a computer. With routine work your brain do not exercise. Look I am no scientist or psychologist so I rely on my pseudoscience here. Feeding your brain everyday with new stuff it needs to deal with, you start to forget things, can't remember stuff and places you have seen 2 months before. It is because you experience new things everyday, you brain must compute the stuff everyday. You bloodywell get a memory overload. You need to park off for a week or so at places to do some diary work or check your photos and edit them. Like defragging the brain  :biggrin:

The only reason you go to Nairobi is for Jungle Jungle and to get your bike sorted for the next half of the trip, tyres, service and so on. If you can get your bike sorted with Denis in Dar es Salaam you can ride around Nairobi with ease and wild camp or just stay in camps.

The rest of the way through Sudan is the same, Ethiopia is the same and you must get your visa either before hand or wait in Nairobi to send your passport back to SA. Same for Sudan, just check the times, they issue the visa valid from date of issue. It might bugger up your times.
Then, the SS FAIL from Wadi to Aswan apparently the road is open for the last few months and you do not have to use that piece of shit ferry anymore. But use Mazar to do your paperwork in Wadi. http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-route-around-the-world/sudan/ (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-route-around-the-world/sudan/)
You can go from Sudan to Saudi via Port Siad, but you need to get your visa for Saudi in Khartoum, but still make sure you can get into Jordan from Saudi then to Israel. I still think going into Egypt is the quickest way and then to Taba into Israel and will cost the least.

Africa East side is absolutely no problem for travel. We also very rarely stuck to the main route everybody else uses for this overland. There is no need to eat tar and more to see taking the back roads.

Israel is moer expensive! So fill up in Egypt and you can get to Ashdod with one tank. Israel is super cool and you can wild camp nearly anywhere. But fuel is R20per/L and bread, milk and beer double SA. Also insurance there is fucking crazy expensive. I will post you the shipper in Israel details and arrange before hand when the ferry is leaving that you only spend a few days in Israel if need be. The shippers are not scoundrels and unlike the Egyptians wont shaft you in the ass.
The R12000 was for both of us. So you will get away cheaper. You will also have your own butler :D Trying to ship from Egypt I promise you, you WILL chew off your own arms from frustration. The Israeli's and Italian as super efficient and fast.

Europe is expensive!!!! Make no mistake! But.... keep to super markets, camp and wild camp as much as possible and you can get away with around 34Eu - 45eu per day including fuel maybe even cheaper, check for Couch Surfing if you are okay with it. We do not like it and will rather wild camp than that. I think fuel is now around R18per liter there. The best is to cut your speed to 100km/h from start. You save 30% more fuel and have less chance of stopping your trip due to an accident with a local or animal. Also the wear on your bike, tyres and such is much less, which will help with replacing stuff too often.

Yes please keep in touch, if you are not on Facebook get on it, as it is the easiest way to follow fellow travelers. You do not have to post like a frantic pimple face teen, just an update now and then so we can follow and maybe yes we will meet up. When you post on Facebook do it on the HorizonsUnlimited page as it is dedicated for that.

Depending on your route try and get out of Eu as fast as possible or store your bike somewhere. Check on HorizonsUnlimited for people with storage place. Most wont charge you. Also get your Carne canceled once out of Israel as you do not need it in Eu. Eu do not need any paper work for our bikes and your bike can effectively stay there forever.

We are leaving for Europe at end April to start again for another 6months.  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: schalk vd merwe on March 01, 2015, 02:57:12 pm
Yebo yes! Schalk I remember you well.  :thumleft:

Doing the trip in stages is much better on the budget and you are doing it right! meaning you can spend as much time seeing, exploring and getting to know a country than racing through it while having to stick to a time frame. I follow many travelers and adding a time limit to a trip often leads to a hellova lot of stress and not much enjoyment. I can honestly tell you now from experience taking it slow is the absolute best way to get out the other side with a sane mind and wallet.

Also the people that rush an extended trip like this end up with ' selective memory syndrome'  :biggrin:. We have experienced it. Because you are not in a routine like your day to day job doing sort off the same thing everyday driving back and forth to work, your mind do not work the data and store it like a computer and it is routine work your mind do not excerise. You start to forget things, can't remember stuff and places you have seen 2 months before. It is because you experience new things everyday, you brain must compute the stuff everyday. You bloodywell get a memory overload. You need to park off for a week or so at places to do some diary work or check your photos and edit them. Like defragging the brain  :biggrin:

The only reason you go to Nairobi is for Jungle Jungle and to get your bike sorted for the next half of the trip, tyres, service and so on. If you can get your bike sorted with Denis in Dar es Salaam you can ride around Nairobi with ease and wild camp or just stay in camps.

The rest of the way through Sudan is the same, Ethiopia is the same and you must get your visa either before hand or wait in Nairobi to send your passport back to SA. Same for Sudan, just check the times, they issue the visa valid from date of issue. It might bugger up your times.
Then, the SS FAIL from Wadi to Aswan apparently the road is open for the last few months and you do not have to use that piece of shit ferry anymore. But use Mazar to do your paperwork in Wadi. http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-route-around-the-world/sudan/ (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-route-around-the-world/sudan/)
You can go from Sudan to Saudi via Port Siad, but you need to get your visa for Saudi in Khartoum, but still make sure you can get into Jordan from Saudi then to Israel. I still think going into Egypt is the quickest way and then to Taba into Israel and will cost the least.

Africa East side is absolutely no problem for travel. We also very rarely stuck to the main route everybody else uses for this overland. There is no need to eat tar and more to see taking the back roads.

Israel is moer expensive! So fill up in Egypt and you can get to Ashdod with one tank. Israel is super cool and you can wild camp nearly anywhere. But fuel is R20per/L and bread, milk and beer double SA. Also insurance there is fucking crazy expensive. I will post you the shipper in Israel details and arrange before hand when the ferry is leaving that you only spend a few days in Israel if need be. The shippers are not scoundrels and unlike the Egyptians wont shaft you in the ass.
The R12000 was for both of us. So you will get away cheaper. You will also have your own butler :D Trying to ship from Egypt I promise you, you WILL chew off your own arms from frustration. The Israeli's and Italian as super efficient and fast.

Europe is expensive!!!! Make no mistake! But.... keep to super markets, camp and wild camp as much as possible and you can get away with around 34Eu - 45eu per day including fuel maybe even cheaper, check for Couch Surfing if you are okay with it. We do not like it and will rather wild camp than that. I think fuel is now around R18per liter there. The best is to cut your speed to 100km/h from start. You save 30% more fuel and have less chance of stopping your trip due to an accident with a local or animal. Also the wear on your bike, tyres and such is much less, which will help with replacing stuff too often.

Yes please keep in touch, if you are not on Facebook get on it, as it is the easiest way to follow fellow travelers. You do not have to post like a frantic pimple face teen, just an update now and then so we can follow and maybe yes we will meet up. When you post on Facebook do it on the HorizonsUnlimited page as it is dedicated for that.

Depending on your route try and get out of Eu as fast as possible or store your bike somewhere. Check on HorizonsUnlimited for people with storage place. Most wont charge you. Also get your Carne canceled once out of Israel as you do not need it in Eu. Eu do not need any paper work for our bikes and your bike can effectively stay there forever.

We are leaving for Europe at end April to start again for another 6months.  ;)
Fantastic Michnus you really gave me good advice. Could you please send me your e mail address. Mine is schalkelectrical@telkomsa.net I would like to buy one of those petrol stoves from you. Thanks a million and we will definitely stay in touch.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 01, 2015, 03:13:16 pm
gestuur  :deal:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: schalk vd merwe on March 01, 2015, 03:25:30 pm
gestuur  :deal:
Baie dankie
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 01, 2015, 03:26:50 pm
BTW, I have met with a few lekker bikers in Italy, will get you in touch with them, maybe they can help you to store the bike for free.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: EtienneXplore on March 01, 2015, 04:38:24 pm
Michnus, first of all, huge thanks for the time and effort in doing a report like this!

Quick one, in hindsight, would you still have taken the Dakar in stead of your 1200GS?




Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 01, 2015, 06:36:25 pm
Pleasure, and thanks for reading, I really appreciate it.  :thumleft:

Man, difficult to answer, yes and no. Yes, no waterpump shit on the 1200, it's a beefier machine, but, it's heavy. And oke's can say what they want, when you really want to enjoy the backroads of Africa and not cruise the main roads and you are loaded picking up a heavy bike is no pleasure. You also increase your risk of injury which will stop your trip for you with lots of expense waiting. Yes it's got tubeless tyre, but fuck I agree I also want it on my other bikes. The best so far is Tubliss. Drive shaft, yes but also will leave you in serious kak if it break. Also generally you can't speed and you must have rocks in your head to do high speed in these other countries. We have met with 4 or 5 people hitting the tar with serious shit due to animals, vehicles and people. One guy had to sit in Addis for 3 months to sort out his bike and busted foot. So having a fast bike means zero.

Now that we have done all the miles and been through all. I must honestly tell you lighter is better. Even a 450cc is better but the 650cc range is ultimately the absolute best compromise for travel. Lighter on fuel, easier and cheaper to ship, cheaper to get parts and maintain, cheaper to run than any 1190/1200/ect. It all adds up. Ship a part costing R100 to Sudan and it will cost R1000 by the time it gets there, any part into Africa rule of thumb we found x 4. Plus time to wait. My prop shaft broke in Aliwal on the 1200gs the other day. Stopped us in our tracks. Imagine that happened in Uganda? Fuck, R8000 for the part plus shiping to add and time. And it gave no warning. Chain you at least get some warning. But it is just an example.  

Bigger bikes are cool for around SA, Namibia, SADEC and so. Or if you want to hightail it to Egypt in 30days. But then shipping a 1200 back to SA cost more than a 650 to ship. And the Carne for 650cc is cheaper than a 1200 or other litre bikes. But when you really want to go places and enjoy offroad driving in Africa the likes of a Discovery5HSESXHDABS is not that clever. The difference is the 1200 is cool onroad like the KTM1190 and Yamaha Tenere, but not that lovely offroad with all your luggage. So where would you rather have the best bike? Off road ofcourse. So rather have a numb ass on tar than kakking on a dirt road with a loaded bike and potentially injuring yourself. There's no quick cellphone extraction in Africa, chop chop call a friend in Jouberg to help is not gonna happen.

The big thing I see is that our options on the 650cc-ish range is dying. Europe is building bikes for road use that look like Ewan cruisers. Only Africa, Australia, South America and USA a bit still ride offroad. Europe where the biggest market is there are very few to none dirt left. Germany does not allow dirt riding at all. Most go fuck around in Morocco for a week and call it riding. We are really privileged and fortunate to still be able to ride dirt in Africa the way we do, it's wonderful.

Our plan is to go ride South America to Alaska for 2 years end of this year. I am seriously thinking 450DR-Z's for that trip.

And that is why we must have more than one bike, different tools for the job.  :ricky: :lol8:


Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: EtienneXplore on March 01, 2015, 07:06:59 pm
Shap Shap!!

I thought so! I am keeping my XT660Z then!

Thanks for the inputs!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 01, 2015, 07:17:51 pm
The 660 Tenere is a lekker bike. Just check what lekker girls get drawn to them. http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-videologue/other-epic-videos-from-motorcycle-travellers/ (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-videologue/other-epic-videos-from-motorcycle-travellers/)
 ;) :lol8:
1st 2 clips
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: EtienneXplore on March 01, 2015, 07:30:58 pm
The 660 Tenere is a lekker bike. Just check what lekker girls get drawn to them. http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-videologue/other-epic-videos-from-motorcycle-travellers/ (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/travel-videologue/other-epic-videos-from-motorcycle-travellers/)
 ;) :lol8:
1st 2 clips

mmmmmm.............nice!

I could just watch the first one as the connection is so kak here in Zambia! But it was worth it!   :ricky:

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 01, 2015, 07:42:34 pm
You get the idea  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 02, 2015, 03:26:59 pm
The days were getting colder and we rode with lots of warm clothes and rain suits. Our last stay in the tent was the coldest we ever experienced while travelling. Lucky being out of season the hotel rooms were relatively inexpensive and we were able to book only a day in advance or at some places just pitch up without a booking. When in Italy, visiting Romeo and Juliet’s home town is a must. Verona is a picturesque and romantic town with street vendors and beautiful old buildings. The Verona’s Roman Arena is the third largest in Italy (after the Roman Colosseum and the arena in Capua).

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-K7G4bbD/0/L/i-K7G4bbD-L.jpg)
Corso Porta Borsari.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vZnsMG8/0/M/i-vZnsMG8-M.jpg)
City of Verona, Romeo and Juliet did their thing here.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NdPP4vQ/0/M/i-NdPP4vQ-M.jpg)
View over Verona from Castel San Pietro

Verona claims to have more Roman ruins than any Italian city other than Rome.  Sauntering along one of Verona’s most famous shopping streets, the Corso Porta Borsari, the locals hardly seem to notice the magnificent, exceptionally well-preserved Roman gate as they pass under its great arches.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KpLQ9vV/0/M/i-KpLQ9vV-M.jpg)
The statue have been removed in early 2014. Too many people wanted to touch her boob for good luck.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DGRCLvm/0/M/i-DGRCLvm-M.jpg)
Juliet’s balcony.

Five:

Roads made for motorcycles! Italy is small but it boosts some of the best motorcycle riding roads in the world. With the Italians being such passionate bikers they will be quick to show and tell about their favourite scenic routes. From along the huge cliffs of the Amalfi coast to the towering passes in the Alps, no car or bus or any other mode of transport would be able to punch one in the face with such vigor and pure happiness that a bike can do.

The road over the Alps from Venice to Innsbruck is absolutely spectacular. We were warned not to spend too much time before heading over the Alps as it could snow and then we will be stuck in Italy.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JSTJtkV/0/L/i-JSTJtkV-L.jpg)
Going through the Alps. The mountains reach into the clouds, with some of the most scenics roads in the world.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sNcrQP6/0/L/i-sNcrQP6-L.jpg)
Coffee stop. Popular hang- out place in summer for bikers. Never ending twisties.

Italy is best taken slow with lots of time available for scenic drives, hanging out at local bars and the local foods. Camping is a blast and cheap with campsites in every town. Bread and a 2 Euro bottles of red wine is all you need!

Well there you have it. Only five reasons to get to Italy and enjoy it by motorcycle. There are loads more reasons but that’s your own to find out.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Xpat on March 02, 2015, 06:38:16 pm
Hey michnus, I hope you don't mind me adding my 2c about Africa travels here. I've came down in one year from Prague in 2005/06 - you can find half finished (still in Uganda there) report in my signature.

I'm writing because it is interesting how experiences can differ. While I fully agree on the lack of wisdom of just rushing through Africa based on predefined plan, however I did no experience the memory overflow - quite the opposite actually, as I'm writing that report 9 years later and still doing quite well (no I did not do any notes, just pictures). I was lucky to not have a time limit on my trip. I've expected to do it in 6 months, ending up taking one year and 40000 km and staying to live in SA (original plan was to ship back to the rat race up there).

And I strongly recommend to take at least 6 months. You can go easily in 3 months from London to New York (e.g. along east-west axis) as Long Way Round shown, no problem - because you are not going to encounter much diversity on the way. Sure you may feel a bit exotic in Mongolia and maybe Kazakhstan, but let's face, almost the whole route you are in white man's territory and Europeans/Russians/Americans are much more similar than for example Ethiopians and Kenyans. That is why in my opinion Long Way Down sucks completely, as it (apart from other things) just doesn't have a chance to capture mind boggling diversity of Africa (or any north-south route) within the similar time space.

Back to memory - I had actually completely opposite problem, probably because I was one of those professional workaholic bitches before the trip. About three months into the trip, I couldn't actually sleep in night, as my brain just wasn't tired enough just from travelling - regardless how work have I worked on the bike that day. I would recommend to come up with some kind of intellectually stimulating activity (e.g. learning new language) as a side project during travel, as believe it or not, it will become monotonous after a while. And take breaks from riding (party in Kampala, climb Kili, diving in Dahab, whatever). 

For the bike choice - I'm fully with you 650 is best. I've done my trip on GSA1150 and have stuck most of the way off the beaten track, and while I have managed to drag that bike through most of the things including dunes and mud, I have often wondered what it would be like on a smaller and more nimble bike, on which you can actually enjoy riding the unknown dirt track, rather than wondering at what point to turn back.

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 02, 2015, 08:20:30 pm
Not a problem at all, gooi! the more info we can share the better. :D

Flipped I can't recall one monotonous moment. Okay I might be a bit doff and simple stuff keep me occupied, like drinking beer. :lol8: That said, the parts we had to make up miles and get through stuff was more of a memory problem than the parts we took slow. LIke Lalibela, Turkana and Uganda. We did a load of stuff everyday and it still felt like we did not have enough time to see everything. Those parts I remember well. But still taking it slower is better, no doubt.  :biggrin:

We have just started on trying to learn a bit of Spanish for South America and man! This is fucking difficult and it's burning the brain. Teaching an old dog new tricks is not a joke.  :sip: :lol8:

I fully agree 1000% with you on the 6 months thing. Doing these kind of trips in 30 or 50 days is an absolute waste of time and money. Time flies like it's nobodies business and although it sounds like a long time it goes past like stink.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: P.K. on March 02, 2015, 09:36:57 pm
You gonna need the Spanish. did a trip thru Argentina, Bolivia & Peru a few years ago and you HAVE to have a basic knowledge of it unless you want to stick to the tourist routes. Awesome biking country tho`...
Best travel tip: Memorise the word  `Banyol`...fuck..I`m sure the spelling is wrong, but it means `toilet`...and I promise you it`s a word you will need...possibly in a hurry!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 09:17:25 am
 :lol8: thanks for the advice.

Must tell you also just knowing the word beer has helped us many times.   ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 03:47:15 pm
The lifestyle of the unemployed.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SwhSMRW/0/L/i-SwhSMRW-L.jpg)
This is rapper style rubber. Kraaifontein and Danville oke’s will give their front teeth for a set of these.

There’s those with unlimited funds, no boring 9 to 5ér. Those are the upper class crust who does not need to work, the well heeled life of the unemployed. The people who enjoy the lazy pampered life on a yacht in the Mediterranean or sipping on an espresso or wine spritzer on a Wednesday morning in Monaco.

That's not us.. :lol8:

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/italy-moto-1024x468.jpg)
Ferrari, Vespa, Ducati and Lamborghini all a mere 150km radius. Can be visited in a day.

For a brief moment a vicarious thrill into the life of the rich and their luxuries.

Travelling Italy there is just no way petrolheads can miss the region with the most visually stimulating bodies in the world. Motorcycles and car bodies! No other nation in the world can boast the kind of flair and sexapeal that the Italian brand of cars and motorcycles parade and with as much exclusive heritage. We were able to visit Vespa, Lamborghini, Ferrari and Ducati in one day.  There’s your average  BMW or Merc poverty spec new car smell and then there’s Ferrari and Lamborghini new car smell. Their smell is of the gods.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Lr2cQFH/0/M/i-Lr2cQFH-M.jpg)
Yes, you can even pay your arse off for a set of weights. If you really must have fast dumbbells


” Inaugurated in 2001, the Lamborghini Museum reviews all the important milestones reached by the House of the Raging Bull, with a foray into the past that has a strong emotional impact on fans of luxury super sports cars. The Murciélago was the first masterpiece displayed in this inspiring location in Italy’s Motor Valley. At its side gallops a broad collection that includes the Miura S and its iconic “eyelashes”, the 350 GT, the Countach S, the Jalpa, the Espada, the Sesto Elemento, the Reventón and the other exclusive supercars that have turned the Raging Bull into a legend. Engines, models and photos help provide visitors with a complete overview of the history of this automotive saga, which is continuing in the slipstream of Ferruccio Lamborghini’s first visionary idea.”

Admission is around 13euro’s per person and factory tours must be arranged.


(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-R3xZmfB/0/M/i-R3xZmfB-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jRcnJvX/0/M/i-jRcnJvX-M.jpg)
Nope, not your Midas fake Carbon fuel cap sticker.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZtNNdTk/0/L/i-ZtNNdTk-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-v9K4VWb/0/L/i-v9K4VWb-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Xb3BSh7/0/L/i-Xb3BSh7-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 04:01:32 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Xb3BSh7/0/L/i-Xb3BSh7-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rBLZmRS/0/L/i-rBLZmRS-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-r3QGJ69/0/L/i-r3QGJ69-L.jpg)
Boat racing engines!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-wCjjLtT/0/L/i-wCjjLtT-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-drQFr8b/0/M/i-drQFr8b-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-38wNrGK/0/L/i-38wNrGK-L.jpg)
The closest I will ever come to these, so had to sit there and make if I own the damn thing  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 04:13:48 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BJw5Hq4/0/L/i-BJw5Hq4-L.jpg)
Even these older 80's cars still looks super fast standing still

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VGsBdds/0/L/i-VGsBdds-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-d7qjFdR/0/L/i-d7qjFdR-L.jpg)

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 04:19:25 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tXc39K8/0/M/i-tXc39K8-M.jpg)
Also in the museum the prototypes that never saw showroom floors

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9jJ3x6q/0/L/i-9jJ3x6q-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4465ZPr/0/L/i-4465ZPr-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 04:22:49 pm
(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/lamborghini-museum-italy-33.jpg)
CA registered car at the museum?

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/lamborghini-museum-italy-2.jpg)
This one is as ugly as fuck  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 04:27:41 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZtNNdTk/0/L/i-ZtNNdTk-L.jpg)

This is the insides and size of a new 4 seater Lamborghini tyre eater. Well this thing will eat anything with 4 wheels.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NWBHkKW/0/L/i-NWBHkKW-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BPcP4cj/0/L/i-BPcP4cj-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jK4B2DB/0/L/i-jK4B2DB-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-83p8gRD/0/L/i-83p8gRD-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-F5b8jLz/0/L/i-F5b8jLz-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KGnTrKn/0/L/i-KGnTrKn-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7NTWNk5/0/L/i-7NTWNk5-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NmMJsNQ/0/L/i-NmMJsNQ-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 04:29:46 pm
Lamborghini marketing posters.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SpvzrcL/0/L/i-SpvzrcL-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dJ2ZKpG/0/L/i-dJ2ZKpG-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-26pFLrk/0/L/i-26pFLrk-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on March 03, 2015, 07:33:52 pm
Jeez, thank you, I am so glad I saw this before the Mods wipe this off the site for its Porn Content. Thank you for your awesome RR. Ride safe. :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 03, 2015, 08:02:22 pm
Jeez, thank you, I am so glad I saw this before the Mods wipe this off the site for its Porn Content. Thank you for you awesome RR. Ride safe. :ricky:

Got some more Italian porn coming  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on March 03, 2015, 08:07:50 pm
 :lol8: Gooi
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: silberfuchs on March 03, 2015, 10:33:15 pm

Hi Michnus,

I only picked up this fred recently and really admire your stamina and even more your missus's. Not many girls will do a trip like this - my respect!
I do enjoy your distilled views about some of the places you have been to and the immediacy of your reports. Please give us more of the same. Thank you for spending time to let us be there, time you could have just been by yourselves.

I gather you are now in Austria. I do not know what your further plans are, where you want to store your bikes etc.
I do still have some roots and infrastucture there and could be possibly of some help if needed. Will be there - so God will - in April.
   Let me know.

Cheers and good riding


 
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: evansv on March 04, 2015, 03:35:51 am
Those car pictures are pure porn!!!   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Kerritz on March 04, 2015, 07:52:56 am
Thanks Michnus gooi nog!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 12:07:27 pm

Hi Michnus,

I only picked up this fred recently and really admire your stamina and even more your missus's. Not many girls will do a trip like this - my respect!
I do enjoy your distilled views about some of the places you have been to and the immediacy of your reports. Please give us more of the same. Thank you for spending time to let us be there, time you could have just been by yourselves.

I gather you are now in Austria. I do not know what your further plans are, where you want to store your bikes etc.
I do still have some roots and infrastucture there and could be possibly of some help if needed. Will be there - so God will - in April.
   Let me know.

Cheers and good riding
 

Hi Silberfuchs, thanks so much for the kind gesture. Will definitely add your name to our contact list. You never know when shit goes South and needing some help.

I am a bit behind on the reporting and trying to catch up now. Doing it while on the road is really difficult. We are heading back to Germany in April to get our bikes out of storage and then get going to Turkey and if time allows to Iran. Will park the bikes again in Oct when it is getting cold.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 12:31:19 pm
FERRARI.
The Ferrari museum in Modena is quite a big setup. There’s the tour to Enzo’s house and own museum or if time is limited visiting the big museum will be enough for most.  The Ferrari setup is a tourist business. Plenty of young good-looking Italian girls walking around punting rides in Ferrari’s which range from 300eu per 10min to stupid money for a 30min on the highway. It is not as old school feeling as with Vespa and Lamborghini. But they can be forgiven for that as it is a well known and loved brand. The museum is something to behold and some of the cars in there must be worth many millions of Eu.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Bx74L7M/0/L/i-Bx74L7M-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Dkn6SpZ/0/L/i-Dkn6SpZ-L.jpg)
Tell me this does not give you a hard on? If not you are a woosie

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FH5fnBn/0/L/i-FH5fnBn-L.jpg)
Old ways development.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-38VdXQx/0/L/i-38VdXQx-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9NNXPkD/0/L/i-9NNXPkD-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-26Sv2bL/0/L/i-26Sv2bL-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 12:35:56 pm
All these cars are original examples with low miles! The money value of all these cars in the museum buildings must be billions. (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RhBNWzs/0/L/i-RhBNWzs-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bfL6Hp6/0/L/i-bfL6Hp6-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mSw4NTF/0/L/i-mSw4NTF-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XS3p7fn/0/L/i-XS3p7fn-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 12:42:02 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Kvq7746/0/L/i-Kvq7746-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Dn6XB4R/0/L/i-Dn6XB4R-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3bkqRpm/0/L/i-3bkqRpm-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kj7dFbB/0/L/i-kj7dFbB-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QVb8d6F/0/L/i-QVb8d6F-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: zetman on March 04, 2015, 12:44:57 pm
 :biggrin: Wow paar mooi karretjies

Julle moet die jaar se trippie geniet en vat ekstra waterpompe en ratjies en spares saam  :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 12:48:01 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HkScB9v/0/L/i-HkScB9v-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KskT3xm/0/L/i-KskT3xm-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nrrL4CC/0/L/i-nrrL4CC-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: silberfuchs on March 04, 2015, 12:55:11 pm
Hi Michnus,

Give me an email contact of yours so I can send you my Austrian contact details.

If you plan to go through Vienna, or if you possibly want some hints for good bike routes in A let me know. I have done many miles there and still add a few every year.

Cheers
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 01:19:02 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WZHHg4d/0/L/i-WZHHg4d-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-n9wRQS2/0/L/i-n9wRQS2-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TLMmD6c/0/L/i-TLMmD6c-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FBHQtjn/0/L/i-FBHQtjn-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 04, 2015, 01:20:17 pm
Hi Michnus,

Give me an email contact of yours so I can send you my Austrian contact details.

If you plan to go through Vienna, or if you possibly want some hints for good bike routes in A let me know. I have done many miles there and still add a few every year.

Cheers

That's great thanks. michnus@gmail.com
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: KTMRICK on March 04, 2015, 02:01:18 pm
Not many people Live, but you two!!!!! Fantastic.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on March 04, 2015, 08:33:57 pm
Awesome :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 05, 2015, 03:14:39 pm
DUCATI.
The Ducati museum is a real work of art. The museum is in a big round hall with a helmet in shape auditorium in the middle and the bikes on display around on the outside. We were not allowed to take pictures in the factory but it is a must visit with the museum tour. One man build an engine and no robots, all the bikes are also hand build and the entire factory is actually quite small.  The tour must be booked in advance via the internet. http://ducati.com/company/visit_us/index.do (http://ducati.com/company/visit_us/index.do)

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/08/ducati-museum-italy-2-1024x881.jpg)
Dakar bikes when men still brushed their teeth with steel brushes.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ShmTVTJ/0/L/i-ShmTVTJ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VpZhpzq/0/L/i-VpZhpzq-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QbgKDPb/0/L/i-QbgKDPb-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 05, 2015, 03:25:41 pm

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tnTzLJJ/0/L/i-tnTzLJJ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NsRkN9G/0/L/i-NsRkN9G-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FprtdVw/0/L/i-FprtdVw-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6WKjLqW/0/L/i-6WKjLqW-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-92Mm7XL/0/L/i-92Mm7XL-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mxBq4V2/0/L/i-mxBq4V2-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 06, 2015, 05:22:02 pm
BMW WELT MUSEUM – THE ONE TO VISIT!


(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/germany-bmw-welt-pikipiki-26.jpg)
Photo essay of the spectacular BMW Welt. Get a drink and take stroll.

Impressive, mind-blowing, jaw drop, just some of the words that does not begin to describe the incredible size and magnitude of this auto maker museum visitors centre that BMW – Welt made possible. Everybody knows BMW, it’s like Coca-Cola they are everywhere. Only when wandering through the museum and visitors area does the reality of how much BMW has achieved over the years hit home. BMW has built a very long and rich history over the last century. Not just with cars but also motorcycles and at one stage aeroplane engines.

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/germany-bmw-welt-pikipiki-57.jpg)

From all the other auto and motorcycle museums we have seen so far, BMW has outdone all of them. They have really spend mega money and effort to showcase their history and brand. And for all that they do not overcharge on entrance like some other brands.

There‘s three building or parts. The BMW Welt visitors area, the museum and the factory part.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KP9mNXW/0/M/i-KP9mNXW-M.jpg)

It is close to a full daygermany-bmw welt-pikipiki (16) excursion to get through the entire place, it includes a delivery center where as many as 100 new customers pick up their new cars every day, as well as interactive exhibits showcasing the company’s operations in R&D, design and production, and as concert venues and conference rooms.

The neighboring BMW Museum host 120 original exhibits covering 90 years of BMW history laid out on a virtual roadway across 25 exhibition areas. Finally, visitors can also tour the company’s main plant in Munich.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RHRMKj9/0/L/i-RHRMKj9-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KMVxB3P/0/L/i-KMVxB3P-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 06, 2015, 05:25:49 pm
(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/germany-bmw-welt-pikipiki-30.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bLgBjRh/0/M/i-bLgBjRh-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MBx5ZNC/0/M/i-MBx5ZNC-M.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Ghv79F7/0/M/i-Ghv79F7-M.jpg)

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 06, 2015, 05:29:01 pm
Visitors enters at BMW Welt visitor centre. There’s a restaurant with shops and where new buyers receive their cars. Every now and then visitors gets treated to a bike show with a helluva accomplished rider going up and down the stairs at brisk speed and then do stoppies on his way down. An old BMW Isetta ferry kiddies around the building on a joy ride.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rsR2QMv/0/L/i-rsR2QMv-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rW3Kjrz/0/L/i-rW3Kjrz-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xfJ4jFr/0/L/i-xfJ4jFr-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-T56gbBw/0/L/i-T56gbBw-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 06, 2015, 05:33:02 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DCSWk7M/0/L/i-DCSWk7M-L.jpg)
I took some time to try and understand how de hell they got an HP2 to resemble an American Buffalo.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GdHQ3Nw/0/L/i-GdHQ3Nw-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FWzfSw5/0/L/i-FWzfSw5-L.jpg)

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/germany-bmw-welt-pikipiki-61.jpg)
279km/h in 1922 from a 750cc machine. Not too shabby.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 06, 2015, 05:36:30 pm
The wall of motorcycles This is part of a wall 2 stories high with the entire motorcycles model range BMW have built.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TqZsH99/0/L/i-TqZsH99-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-C3Thrfk/0/L/i-C3Thrfk-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LTjbKqw/0/L/i-LTjbKqw-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gjWCjTm/0/L/i-gjWCjTm-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 06, 2015, 05:40:38 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZdJrT8N/0/L/i-ZdJrT8N-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JLrsPqG/0/L/i-JLrsPqG-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-h6ZSdXx/0/L/i-h6ZSdXx-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Hp8Tjsg/0/L/i-Hp8Tjsg-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 09:20:15 am
The Dakar racing bikes on show are real beauties.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7ZVK59R/0/L/i-7ZVK59R-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KHFbpJT/0/L/i-KHFbpJT-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JPMZnGF/0/L/i-JPMZnGF-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tQmPsFT/0/L/i-tQmPsFT-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 09:22:50 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RBhxsWw/0/L/i-RBhxsWw-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4BJNwVK/0/L/i-4BJNwVK-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-P5bPG7Q/0/L/i-P5bPG7Q-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NSKGCjG/0/L/i-NSKGCjG-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Man from Nam on March 09, 2015, 10:20:34 am
Really Really nice!!! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 11:05:16 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qvTrCqB/0/L/i-qvTrCqB-L.jpg)
And Mr Bond cruiser.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mdmJxt8/0/L/i-mdmJxt8-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sV6V7Cx/0/L/i-sV6V7Cx-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 11:10:49 am
Bloody hell I remember these racing around Kyalami when I was still a wee lad with my dad. They showed off these cars at the Rand Easter show when it was still in down town JHB. And these cars came as cardboard cutouts to fold into a car.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8Gd426Q/0/L/i-8Gd426Q-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zvp6TTg/0/L/i-zvp6TTg-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mD65JbG/0/L/i-mD65JbG-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 12:56:27 pm
Because you know I’m all about that bass
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3dZKq3R/0/S/i-3dZKq3R-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7LCzjp6/0/S/i-7LCzjp6-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MghZ7TS/0/L/i-MghZ7TS-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kZmvJqG/0/L/i-kZmvJqG-L.jpg)
BMW – Model series badges through the years. This exhibition is hanging between 2 floors
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 01:01:11 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-C6g8kMq/0/L/i-C6g8kMq-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4ntqkfJ/0/L/i-4ntqkfJ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-h5GsXcW/0/L/i-h5GsXcW-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FFGVRj5/0/L/i-FFGVRj5-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dgr7xPz/0/L/i-dgr7xPz-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: I&horse on March 09, 2015, 02:56:10 pm
Is Rolls Royce part of BMW?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 04:11:35 pm
Yip, and they have a hellova exhibition for Rolls there, it is for obvious reasons on the top floor and not part of the commoners downstairs.  :lol8:

Will post some photos for you tomorrow  :deal: ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Man from Nam on March 09, 2015, 04:31:50 pm
 :drif: :drif:
I have been to the Mercedes Benz Museum in Stutguart and that was just as impressive.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 09, 2015, 04:51:48 pm
Merc, Porsche and KTM we will visit when we get back.  :)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 10, 2015, 02:24:45 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xJSvLr8/0/L/i-xJSvLr8-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mrpFSjK/0/L/i-mrpFSjK-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jnvMqM9/0/L/i-jnvMqM9-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fLVGjtq/0/L/i-fLVGjtq-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 10, 2015, 02:28:10 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Jcr2vcZ/0/L/i-Jcr2vcZ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XrNxfcR/0/L/i-XrNxfcR-L.jpg)
Chinese bike has a bigger clutch than that   :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hzGdzJn/0/L/i-hzGdzJn-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vW55RfC/0/L/i-vW55RfC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DNBmWXr/0/L/i-DNBmWXr-L.jpg)
Airplane engines
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 12, 2015, 03:29:23 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VgXNgJw/0/L/i-VgXNgJw-L.jpg)
The closest I will ever come to the Spirit of Ecstasy.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-f6fpLmK/0/L/i-f6fpLmK-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2kprpV6/0/L/i-2kprpV6-L.jpg)
They more resemble 4 ton trucks size in real life. They really are big cars

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mcw6SKv/0/L/i-mcw6SKv-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-H6RDVzv/0/L/i-H6RDVzv-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 13, 2015, 03:03:59 pm
I forgot to add the Vespa Museum in Italy. So here goes.
VESPA.
The Vespa museum is for free. There’s laverda’s and Piaggio’s as well and then one from Salvador dali.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MSST8gf/0/L/i-MSST8gf-L.jpg)
Vespa from 1953 to 1968

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XCmkdND/0/L/i-XCmkdND-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GCfzQx9/0/L/i-GCfzQx9-L.jpg)
Just a bit small for my frame   :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-444JHzx/0/L/i-444JHzx-L.jpg)
Battle scooters. Funny as fuck! The enemy could outrun that rig  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 13, 2015, 03:06:01 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WWKSGdX/0/L/i-WWKSGdX-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dMgZXDQ/0/L/i-dMgZXDQ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-khTsvDj/0/L/i-khTsvDj-L.jpg)
(http://[url=http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MG4T7Nx/0/L/i-MG4T7Nx-L.jpg]http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MG4T7Nx/0/L/i-MG4T7Nx-L.jpg[/url])

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RsZT8H9/0/L/i-RsZT8H9-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vSHVrh5/0/L/i-vSHVrh5-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 13, 2015, 03:07:59 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GLXD4xk/0/L/i-GLXD4xk-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jHKZVd9/0/L/i-jHKZVd9-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zNTC8CP/0/L/i-zNTC8CP-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gPCKrkr/0/L/i-gPCKrkr-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3KFNTSD/0/L/i-3KFNTSD-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: lj111 on March 14, 2015, 07:33:24 am
Great report and pictures Michnus and Elsebie :thumleft :drif:
Thanks for sharing and safe travels :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Goose on March 14, 2015, 08:06:51 am
FANTASTIC RR Michnus .... as usual!

Listen - while you guys are galavanting over there........... if there's any chance you end up near Strasbourg - some very good friends of ours own one of the very best Micro-Breweries..........  :thumleft:

keep their details in your pocket - just in case (but let me know if you have an opportunity to visit  >:D)

Anne & Jacek Korczak
MATTEN - Brasserie Artisanale de Matzenheim
23 rue de l'Ill
67150 Matzenheim

https://www.facebook.com/Brasserie.Artisanale.Matten?pnref=lhc (https://www.facebook.com/Brasserie.Artisanale.Matten?pnref=lhc)


Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 14, 2015, 12:06:53 pm
Thanks manne.  :thumleft:

Goose, they are about 150-200km West of where our bikes are hibernating in the small town of Ulm. We will for sure try and make a plan to go that way. Thanks :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: 1ougat on March 14, 2015, 09:41:52 pm
Where is the Vespa museum?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 15, 2015, 04:15:32 pm
Where is the Vespa museum?

It is a few kilometers from Pisa. "MuseoPiaggio, which can be found in Pontedera in Northwest Tuscany, a 15-minute drive from Pisa and some 35 minutes from Florence"
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 16, 2015, 11:50:58 am
Austria - As we headed up to Germany to store the bikes it was already deep Oct and getting seriously cold. Not the kind of shit we are use to. Locals told us to get going as we have to cross the Alps and if it start snowing we will be stuck in Italy.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-KK8BPrv/0/L/i-KK8BPrv-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-M6LqSFx/0/L/i-M6LqSFx-L.jpg)
Goddamn Stroh rum kiosk was closed!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-88b62Bj/0/L/i-88b62Bj-L.jpg)
It is this cold! :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sjLPkKf/0/L/i-sjLPkKf-L.jpg)
Since we are stupid South Africans and know jackshit about snow people warned us about black ice on the roads. Well I had the fortune dropping the bike a couple of times
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 16, 2015, 12:02:06 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7RNMqCc/0/L/i-7RNMqCc-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-fhwffvX/0/L/i-fhwffvX-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mxDtWh2/0/L/i-mxDtWh2-L.jpg)
Just such a super great time stopping for lunch in the Alps with the cold air in the face and brewing up some coffee with a bit of whiskey to aid in heat generation.  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kMhvmjT/0/L/i-kMhvmjT-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-q5H3SLF/0/L/i-q5H3SLF-L.jpg)
Just about enough wood for a braai
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Kerritz on March 16, 2015, 02:07:44 pm
Awesome pic die!!  :deal:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: 1ougat on March 16, 2015, 03:32:22 pm
What camera/s do you travel with?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 16, 2015, 03:39:21 pm
Thanks Carrots  :thumleft:

Ougat, those were taken with Nikon P7700 compact which can take RAW and is a really tough little camera. I love the small compact cameras, to carry loads of cameras and lenses just frustrate me and I will cry when a R30000 camera get nicked at a borderpost or lost.

I do use Adobe Lightroom to just tweak pics if need be.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on March 16, 2015, 09:04:24 pm
Hell I enjoy this Thread. You are living my Dream too, I can even picture me taking in all that Booze, I would not miss a single Opportunity. Damn that Stroh Shop owner, how could he not know you were about to arrive!  :deal: :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Goose on March 17, 2015, 06:58:26 am
Thanks manne.  :thumleft:

Goose, they are about 150-200km West of where our bikes are hibernating in the small town of Ulm. We will for sure try and make a plan to go that way. Thanks :thumleft:

That would be fantastic if you made it - Jacek is actually Polish and his wife Anne is French - but hell what a fantastic couple and he is especially hospitable!
I'll let them know to keep an eye out for you guys ... just in case...  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 17, 2015, 12:11:09 pm
Hell I enjoy this Thread. You are living my Dream too, I can even picture me taking in all that Booze, I would not miss a single Opportunity. Damn that Stroh Shop owner, how could he not know you were about to arrive!  :deal: :ricky:

Thanks Offshore  :thumleft:

It is an abomination and a crime against humanity in my opinion! They must serve Stroh or beer always!  :biggrin: 8)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 17, 2015, 12:11:34 pm
Thanks manne.  :thumleft:

Goose, they are about 150-200km West of where our bikes are hibernating in the small town of Ulm. We will for sure try and make a plan to go that way. Thanks :thumleft:

That would be fantastic if you made it - Jacek is actually Polish and his wife Anne is French - but hell what a fantastic couple and he is especially hospitable!
I'll let them know to keep an eye out for you guys ... just in case...  :thumleft:

Would be great! Will keep you posted.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 17, 2015, 12:17:25 pm
We travelled through Switzerland to visit 2 overlander couples we met on our trip through Africa. Switzerland is INCREDIBLY beautiful. Everything work, it's super clean and organized. But it is farking expensive! 1Kg Chicken cost R550-00 per kilogram, cup of soup for R50, and then it is shit. Coffee cost R45 per cup of instant stuff.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rT2NZW4/0/L/i-rT2NZW4-L.jpg)
We took the back roads, which eventually became impassable and we had to opt for the small local trains that use to link towns through tunnels.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8pcWgBr/0/L/i-8pcWgBr-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mZf6gDw/0/L/i-mZf6gDw-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5Vz8wvC/0/L/i-5Vz8wvC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-57vg2jf/0/L/i-57vg2jf-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 17, 2015, 12:23:43 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jV3Mvhn/0/L/i-jV3Mvhn-L.jpg)
Yellow snow angels? Nope, breaking the piss off as icicles   :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QmR6xFB/0/L/i-QmR6xFB-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-b6ZKf2r/0/L/i-b6ZKf2r-L.jpg)
We spend some time in La Fouly, a small ski village somewhere with moerse high peaks.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6HSmJ9k/0/L/i-6HSmJ9k-L.jpg)
400 year old houses still standing looking like new.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-X6fvzsd/0/L/i-X6fvzsd-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Jakkals on March 17, 2015, 12:25:04 pm
Fark ek like hierdie RR van jou Michnus,  :thumleft:

Julle is regtig baie bevooreg om so iets te kan doen, gooi nog ek like die kiekies kwaai.  :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 17, 2015, 12:35:26 pm
Dankie Jakkals. Ek wardeer dit opreg.  :thumleft:

Is so baie kiekies nie n probleem nie?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Jakkals on March 17, 2015, 12:41:10 pm
Dankie Jakkals. Ek wardeer dit opreg.  :thumleft:

Is so baie kiekies nie n probleem nie?

Glad nie, die goed is so mooi en dit is lekker om vir 'n slag iets anders te sien, jy kan maar gooi.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: windswept on March 17, 2015, 01:36:52 pm
michnus, that reminds me of Frank Zappa "don't you eat that yellow snow where the huskies go"
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 17, 2015, 02:26:13 pm
michnus, that reminds me of Frank Zappa "don't you eat that yellow snow where the huskies go"

 :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 18, 2015, 01:57:27 pm
We were late waiting for our friends in the mountains and got bliksems cold. So nothing more to do than drink coffee with liberal amount of whiskey
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8HG8mW5/0/L/i-8HG8mW5-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CkLSCzk/0/L/i-CkLSCzk-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GqTpDRk/0/L/i-GqTpDRk-L.jpg)
Riding in Switzerland without helmets! They would get a serious fucking heart attack. Swiss never do anything wrong. And if they do not like something they ban it.   :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HRFnSd5/0/L/i-HRFnSd5-L.jpg)
Antoine and Carlene used Elsebie's bike to take us for a trip into the Swiss Alps.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 18, 2015, 02:16:34 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2tDdNPb/0/L/i-2tDdNPb-L.jpg)
Your choices are highway through the entire Switzerland and you pay R450 per bike to be on the highway which is 350km long from on end of Switzerland to the other end. Or, you take the back roads, stick to the speed limit and it will take you a week, no jokes! And then if the mountains are snowed over you take trains like these through the mountains

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-rvmpFqw/0/L/i-rvmpFqw-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-r7r7D3K/0/L/i-r7r7D3K-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZGF87xt/0/L/i-ZGF87xt-L.jpg)
Okay here is a tip! Fuck hamburgers and that heart attack packages! They also taste like woodshaving!
LEBERKASE (http://www.germanfoodguide.com/wurstdetail.cfm?wurst_number=15) is the BEST tasting fast food ever invented. Warm thick slice on a hot bun and the world is good, wash it down with a beer!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: silberfuchs on March 18, 2015, 03:18:54 pm


Hi julle twee!

Ek is bly julle het die Leberkaese geniet!

Jy weet, dat die regte en oorspronklike van perdevleis gemaak word, ::)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 18, 2015, 03:27:08 pm


Hi julle twee!

Ek is bly julle het die Leberkaese geniet!

Jy weet, dat die regte en oorspronklike van perdevleis gemaak word, ::)

Wel, even al was dit, dit was moer lekker, en vir my enige vleis is okay  :biggrin: 8)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: silberfuchs on March 18, 2015, 03:51:25 pm


Hi julle twee!

Ek is bly julle het die Leberkaese geniet!

Jy weet, dat die regte en oorspronklike van perdevleis gemaak word, ::)

Wel, even al was dit, dit was moer lekker, en vir my enige vleis is okay  :biggrin: 8)

Michnus, ek stem!

Alles wat my nie klaar gevreet het nie, sal ek opvreet.

Cheers
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 18, 2015, 04:10:03 pm


Hi julle twee!

Ek is bly julle het die Leberkaese geniet!

Jy weet, dat die regte en oorspronklike van perdevleis gemaak word, ::)

Wel, even al was dit, dit was moer lekker, en vir my enige vleis is okay  :biggrin: 8)

Michnus, ek stem!

Alles wat my nie klaar gevreet het nie, sal ek opvreet.

Cheers

yip!  :lol8: :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 19, 2015, 03:11:14 pm
We spend a few days with friends in Switzerland in St Gallen, a small town close to the border of Germany and Austria. I understand we are suppose to act our age, but we grew up with cold Highveld winters and not this much snow. Now, how on earth can you act your age when a steep snow covered slope and a plastic shovel is beggin?  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Tv62W8B/0/L/i-Tv62W8B-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vq5t4Dn/0/L/i-vq5t4Dn-L.jpg)
Does not matter the Bees kak covered slopes.........


https://youtu.be/GZejeu379YU
(fuck 10 years down and still a mission to imbed clips to this forum)  :xxbah:
http://vimeo.com/122630357 (http://vimeo.com/122630357)
And this is how I made my name poepol  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xBrLWtz/0/L/i-xBrLWtz-L.jpg)
Just for reference, this house is over 400 years old. Price around R4.5milj and very middle class-ish, considered rural area what we considered a nice suburb outside the city. Swiss are not allowed to do their own plumbing or any electrical work. Replacing an average heating system with a buffer tank and geyser will cost around R150k.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dG8Gf6r/0/L/i-dG8Gf6r-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VsJW55k/0/L/i-VsJW55k-L.jpg)
Loads of markets selling the best tasting sausages. But also some Nuclear waste hot chilli stuff that will burn the life out of your O-ring

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xKNjKNW/0/L/i-xKNjKNW-L.jpg)
Time to put the bikes asleep for the winter. We still had a good stretch to ride to Ulm where we would leave the bikes. And without cold riding clothes it was a very interesting experience.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on March 19, 2015, 03:32:29 pm
Lekker, did you miss that Tree on that Slope?  :eek7: FFS it doen't look good from here. :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 19, 2015, 03:43:14 pm
Just stop short of it. You see us Saffers do not understand the dynamics of snow and ice. The moment you use your feet to slow down you get an ice blast in your eyes and render yourself practically blind. My duct tape repaired rain suit did not last though. :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Kerritz on March 19, 2015, 03:55:03 pm
 :imaposer: :lol8: :spitcoffee:...lyk na vet pret!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 19, 2015, 04:00:45 pm
Moerse pret, even with eating some Lurpak beeskak that's under the snow.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: funacide on March 19, 2015, 09:59:21 pm
Loving this!!

 :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft: :ricky:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on March 22, 2015, 01:20:07 pm
 :sip: :sip: :sip: :sip: :sip:

I keep reading this. Amazing Michnus. Well done for making it happen. It is possible for anyone to do anything one desires, but one is often too bound by the fish bowl one is in. Nice to look out of the bowl at the greater dimension, but a dimension out of reach for the unwilling and the weak.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Thatguyinza on March 22, 2015, 08:06:22 pm
Sub


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 23, 2015, 11:53:10 am
:sip: :sip: :sip: :sip: :sip:

I keep reading this. Amazing Michnus. Well done for making it happen. It is possible for anyone to do anything one desires, but one is often too bound by the fish bowl one is in. Nice to look out of the bowl at the greater dimension, but a dimension out of reach for the unwilling and the weak.

Very true words J-Dog.  :thumleft: It's all about the passion to start doing something you really want to do. And then go for it no matter what. Notwithstanding the fact that you grow as a person, learn new things and in the end the rewards are absolutely worth the effort.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 23, 2015, 11:59:59 am
We got back to Ulm where are bikes  took a bit of a rest for the winter. We left them with a German couple we met in Ethiopia. They both ride BMW R100 kalahari's and have been all over Africa with them. Birgit even did Van Zyl's pass all on her own with that bike!

We had loads to fix and do before heading for Holland to meet up with other Dutch friends we met while travelling.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-GGhD9SR/0/L/i-GGhD9SR-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3SGdMwz/0/L/i-3SGdMwz-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qV7fSp8/0/L/i-qV7fSp8-L.jpg)
Can not work on bikes without beer.  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Hn2jrf8/0/L/i-Hn2jrf8-L.jpg)
Min of meer gatvol! The bikes sometimes have the ability to rob my sense of humour.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 24, 2015, 09:47:52 am
Holland - Oost-Indische Compagnie
The Dutch was rated the happiest nation not so long ago. Or second happiest after Dagga rokers in the Transkei, I can't remember. This small nation of 15milj is quietly doing their thing and many innovative brands are coming from the Dutch.

Look, we are not the kind who does DNA testing and proclaim to be African-European and then go over to find our roots sobbing while walking around a village looking for our ancestors. The truth is that for South Africans from European descent we found it really interesting to see building and everyday houses older than the 1652 when Jan's skuit anchored in Cape town. The Dutch love their culture and history and it is evident from the way they preserve their building and heritage.

(http://[url=http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6bhx9hz/0/L/i-6bhx9hz-L.jpg]http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6bhx9hz/0/L/i-6bhx9hz-L.jpg[/url])

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5XWFCKP/0/L/i-5XWFCKP-L.jpg)
Old shed now is being used as a home. This place is also around 400-500 years old.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-v8vzj5k/0/L/i-v8vzj5k-L.jpg)
Still had some things to do on the bikes. The shit the Egyptians sold me as fork-oil turned out to be Nile mud. It took me half a day to clean up all the shit in the shocks and fitted new seals and oil.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-V3P3S7D/0/L/i-V3P3S7D-L.jpg)
When in Rome. We used friends bicycles to ride around Utrecht. The Dutch owns on average 4 bikes per person.   :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jqPnNmn/0/L/i-jqPnNmn-L.jpg)
Houses build on small barges in the dykes. And they own titles to those houses.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DCDLV8V/0/L/i-DCDLV8V-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LB9rsFs/0/L/i-LB9rsFs-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8b5nZbW/0/L/i-8b5nZbW-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Goose on March 24, 2015, 09:53:44 am
Fantastic mate...... still on my bucket list - my dad was born in Amstelveen and I've still got to make the trip to go and tread the family footsteps.   :thumleft:

LOVE the pics inside that barn...... can you post more pics - looks flippen awesome!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 24, 2015, 09:56:13 am
Will do  :thumleft:

The Dutch tells us Afrikaans sounds like old kombuis taal to them. But Dutch sound like old Afrikans to us.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: J-dog on March 24, 2015, 01:45:26 pm
Will do  :thumleft:

The Dutch tells us Afrikaans sounds like old kombuis taal to them. But Dutch sound like old Afrikans to us.  :lol8:

kombuis - ship's galley.  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 24, 2015, 02:18:24 pm
Man I love the Dutch. And when they are really de moer in...godverdomme! (http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/godverdomme)  :lol8:  :peepwall:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8tDVQNg/0/L/i-8tDVQNg-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NR3dTWH/0/L/i-NR3dTWH-L.jpg)

 :lol8: :eek7:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: silberfuchs on March 24, 2015, 05:40:27 pm
Man I love the Dutch. And when they are really de moer in...godverdomme! (http://en.wiktionary.org/wiki/godverdomme)  :lol8:  :peepwall:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8tDVQNg/0/L/i-8tDVQNg-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NR3dTWH/0/L/i-NR3dTWH-L.jpg)

 :lol8: :eek7:

Hi Michnus,

Ireally love your RR. I get my dose every day and it makes my itchy to go traveling again. Thanks for sharing with us.

BTW when I was abt 17 or so I went to Holland for a sailing trip on the Ijsselmeer and a bit of Atlantic. Met a girl there that could roll a cigarette with one hand in the pocket of her oilies. So these signs are no empty promises... ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 27, 2015, 11:42:55 am
Thanks Silberfuchs, glad you enjoy it.  :thumleft:

Yip, I agree, it's quite refreshing the liberal, open minded and figerous way the Dutch go about life. 
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 27, 2015, 11:51:51 am

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jcVqZxj/0/L/i-jcVqZxj-L.jpg)
There's whats called the bible belt in Holland. That did not stop this dude who was called to build a new Ark.  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MXTKBH9/0/L/i-MXTKBH9-L.jpg)
One big thing in Holland is the pubs, there are loads of them. Individually owned and past down the family. This pub's Poffertjie plate is close to 200 years old and still make the sweets everyday

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pPmZBf8/0/L/i-pPmZBf8-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-WVR9XMD/0/L/i-WVR9XMD-L.jpg)
Zakkenrollers. :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 31, 2015, 02:53:28 pm
We spend some time in Holland before heading towards France through Belgium.

Some more pictures of Amsterdam and surrounding towns

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XWjx54B/0/L/i-XWjx54B-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-L8CFQ7X/0/L/i-L8CFQ7X-L.jpg)
I have no idea don's ask.  :eek7:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Q735jgV/0/L/i-Q735jgV-L.jpg)
The Dutch love their bikes. But you knew that.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7jQHjd9/0/L/i-7jQHjd9-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-p5SFwdL/0/L/i-p5SFwdL-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hKXqmbc/0/L/i-hKXqmbc-L.jpg)
Most of those houses pre date 1652 and still used as houses to this day.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SNS5n2t/0/L/i-SNS5n2t-L.jpg)
Have that in SA and I guarantee you it will be thrown upon and be demanded to be removed.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vXsRXS9/0/L/i-vXsRXS9-L.jpg)
Comdon for every shape and size tottie. Even if your head boost some funny shape. :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-hNxBJZ7/0/L/i-hNxBJZ7-L.jpg)
The good stuff shop.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on March 31, 2015, 03:22:33 pm
What an experience this must have been.
I think we could do with more bicycles and bicycle lanes in our cities as well.
The old houses are just amazing
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on March 31, 2015, 03:28:25 pm
What an experience this must have been.
I think we could do with more bicycles and bicycle lanes in our cities as well.
The old houses are just amazing

Agree with the bicycles, we will also have less boeps.  :lol8:

They have special bicycles lanes and bicycles have absolute right of way. But that said, they also have a bloody public transport system that actually works and on trains even get free WIFI. They have parking lots for bicycles that can house 1000's of bicycles for people to park their bikes as they take the trains to inner city work.

Our friends have been riding bicycle to work their entire lives, winter and summer, doing around a 40km round trip every day. They laugh at us when they visit SA and we take the car to go to Spar.  :)
Title: Fabelaux France
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2015, 09:28:26 am
(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/01/fabuleux-france-pikipiki.jpg)
What a groovy feeling to actually park the Dakar that went all the way up Africa next to the Eiffel tower. Mangez bien, riez souvent, aimez beaucoup means: “Eat well, laugh often, love abundantly.”
Joie de vivre: Joy/happiness derived from life.


Travelling Europe is not about struggling with motorcycles through soft sand like we did in Africa. Europe is an easy and very comfortable adventure. What Europe offers instead is an incredible rich history, architecture and diverse culture and heritage. Best experienced when exploring the backroads and rural villages. But most of all on a motorcycle it is also relatively cheap to explore and much more fun! The true France we saw was so much more rewarding, insightful, quirky with lots of French flair, romance and passion.

Arriving back in Europe a little late in the summer, or really early winter, we high-tailed it from Ulm to The Netherlands to watch a Pink Floyd show with our Dutch friends and some friends from SA.  From there we rushed through Belgium, had a quick stop in Paris to ‘dry out’ and took the quickest route to the coast.

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/france-2013-2-e1421169655250.jpg)
The Arch de Triomphe a magnificent part of history. Circling it is great fun while scaring the bejesus out of the locals.

We headed to Fontainebleau, just South of Paris, to do a bit of business and like the year before found it such a beautiful town. The forest around Fontainebleau and the Palace of Fontainebleau (one of many homes of Marie Antoinette) with its beautifully kept grounds makes it a worthwhile trip indeed. Not at all the images we have as South Africans of an over populated Europe.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-TdDBNF9/0/S/i-TdDBNF9-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-92Rd3dd/0/S/i-92Rd3dd-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sW7QngT/0/S/i-sW7QngT-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bgjD6qK/0/S/i-bgjD6qK-S.jpg)
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-98fF8cV/0/S/i-98fF8cV-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-h76nkHG/0/S/i-h76nkHG-S.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: sidetrack on April 07, 2015, 09:57:18 am
Definitely needs to be in the WTF picture thread  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on April 07, 2015, 12:00:34 pm
You are mentioning the 'view we have of an overpopulated Europe'
That is true, I also thought it to be more busy and over populated but it seems through your posts not to be the case even with countryside and farmland
Very interesting
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2015, 02:56:37 pm
You are mentioning the 'view we have of an overpopulated Europe'
That is true, I also thought it to be more busy and over populated but it seems through your posts not to be the case even with countryside and farmland
Very interesting

None of the cities even Holland gave us the feeling of cramped population living like what we experienced in Cairo, Nairobi, Dar Es Salaam and Kampala for example. I could easily live on the platteland of France or Spain. In fact Spain can take the entire Africa population and still have space.  :biggrin: Even Portugal as a small country still feels normal and not shoulder rub populated.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on April 07, 2015, 03:07:54 pm
You are mentioning the 'view we have of an overpopulated Europe'
That is true, I also thought it to be more busy and over populated but it seems through your posts not to be the case even with countryside and farmland
Very interesting

None of the cities even Holland gave us the feeling of cramped population living like what we experienced in Cairo, Nairobi, Dar Es Salaam and Kampala for example. I could easily live on the platteland of France or Spain. In fact Spain can take the entire Africa population and still have space.  :biggrin: Even Portugal as a small country still feels normal and not shoulder rub populated.

This is something I would love to see.
A mate told me the same about Scotland and said it was the most beautiful countryside he has ever seen
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 07, 2015, 04:04:11 pm
For sure! Scotland got some of the best bike roads in the world  :thumleft: Add to that the Whiskey and it all add's up to a moerse lekker trip  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on April 07, 2015, 04:59:18 pm
For sure! Scotland got some of the best bike roads in the world  :thumleft: Add to that the Whiskey and it all add's up to a moerse lekker trip  :biggrin:

We need a 'like' button here!
Title: Fabuleux France - Paris
Post by: michnus on April 08, 2015, 02:50:59 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-v5snBMH/0/M/i-v5snBMH-M.jpg)

The Avenue des Champs-Élysées runs down from the Arc de Triomphe and is THE road to shop. It also houses some of the major motor car brands elite showrooms with prototypes and showcase some new cars.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4vdhnqZ/0/L/i-4vdhnqZ-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vccCtVr/0/L/i-vccCtVr-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vv3Tdkf/0/L/i-vv3Tdkf-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8frtPc5/0/L/i-8frtPc5-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gV66PxN/0/L/i-gV66PxN-L.jpg)
Beer is still well priced for South Africans provided you buy at a local grocers.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-QPLP36Q/0/L/i-QPLP36Q-L.jpg)
uuuurgghh flat number 1488340plenty  :patch:
We rented this small cabin outside Paris to get our stuff dry and explore the city with the bikes.

It seemed like our bikes were slightly faster than the rainy cloud that followed us, because as soon as we reached a destination, shortly afterwards it rained. Yet, the road we took heading straight west to the coast took us through scenic farmlands and gorgeous little villages.

Camping in France is great – we were unfortunately a bit late for camping season so most establishments were closed, but those we found open were well run and clean. What we liked most about our travels in this area was the beautiful green forests – we generally stay off the main roads and found it heaven for cyclists, hikers and campers. It is easy and safe to wild camp most places in France.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Goose on April 09, 2015, 10:15:40 am
We also thoroughly enjoyed France - especially the smaller villages.... and once the people heard we were South Africans ... and not "ze eenglish across the water" - things turned out fine.

Please just note that motorcycle theft is huge.... make sure your babies are secured properly!   :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 09, 2015, 01:45:39 pm
ye we did use the locks for the bikes Goose.  :thumleft: We loved France, yes the people can be a bit nose in the air but they are still lekker people.


Some more of the The Avenue des Champs-Élysées.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3WtbKQk/0/L/i-3WtbKQk-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CSbnhmj/0/L/i-CSbnhmj-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-sZhz7hW/0/L/i-sZhz7hW-L.jpg)
Aunties of that time was not bad on the eye.  :biggrin:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7qThQJC/0/L/i-7qThQJC-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XHM3HBm/0/L/i-XHM3HBm-L.jpg)
This is how pizza delivery must be done!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ThS88RV/0/L/i-ThS88RV-L.jpg)
Toyota GT2000 priceless

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8LzQXZR/0/L/i-8LzQXZR-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-LtCB6px/0/L/i-LtCB6px-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6pX2RTr/0/L/i-6pX2RTr-L.jpg)
It's not what you think, it's bird shit  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6qDXJTF/0/L/i-6qDXJTF-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Goose on April 09, 2015, 01:50:59 pm
excellent man - I remember seeing that bridge when we were there.... man there's a lot - lovers pledge their love and place the lock on the bridge.... cool idea!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 09, 2015, 01:53:31 pm
excellent man - I remember seeing that bridge when we were there.... man there's a lot - lovers pledge their love and place the lock on the bridge.... cool idea!


I understand they told people to stop adding locks as the bridge can't carry all the weight. Paris is such a groovy city and can spend a lot more time there.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Getitdirty on April 09, 2015, 05:56:17 pm
Hello. If you are planning to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina send me a PM and we can meet up.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on April 09, 2015, 05:59:44 pm
It's not what you think, it's bird shit  lol8


For sure, with those Arms and Legs anything else would be on the Partners Face.  :deal:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 09, 2015, 07:34:54 pm
It's not what you think, it's bird shit  lol8


For sure, with those Arms and Legs anything else would be on the Partners Face.  :deal:

 :imaposer: :lol8: :spitcoffee:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 09, 2015, 07:38:36 pm
Hello. If you are planning to visit Bosnia & Herzegovina send me a PM and we can meet up.

That was our plan now in May. But to get visas for Croatia, Montenegro and Albania it became a real pain in the bud. With a Schengen you can go through those countries and stay 6 to 7 days as transit. Obviaaas we want to spend more time there but it then means we need to apply for visas for them. Which is where the issues arises. And since we are only allowed to stay 90 days in the Eu it means time get a hellova lot less fast.
So we will enter from Turkey and Iran side next.

Thanks for the invite will definitely take you up on it.  :thumleft:
Title: French country side
Post by: michnus on April 10, 2015, 03:43:10 pm
Our first stop next to the French coastline was at Mont-Saint-Michel, an 11th century abbey on a rocky island. The farmland landscape around Mont-Saint-Michel makes for interesting venues and great local eats and shopping. We stayed at a campsite on a farm and were quickly offered the use of an open barn to protect us against most of the rain and wind. The view over to Mont-Saint Michel reminds of late middle ages and really takes you back to those times.

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/france-2013-51-1024x575.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-R7hWmPC/0/L/i-R7hWmPC-L.jpg)
Camping next to a farm shed.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BfLQ5KZ/0/L/i-BfLQ5KZ-L.jpg)
Nothing cramped about the French countryside.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ddDkMDs/0/L/i-ddDkMDs-L.jpg)
Espresso and a shot of whiskey to keep warm.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-k4vzV6M/0/L/i-k4vzV6M-L.jpg)
Nothing like wild camping, just do not pack out the garden gnomes. :biggrin:

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: schalk vd merwe on April 10, 2015, 07:45:18 pm
Hi Michnus
Hoe kry jy woorde tussen die foto's. As ek dit doen kom al die woorde bo en die foto's daarna
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 10, 2015, 11:18:22 pm
Ek laai die fotos op Smugmug en post net die link hier. Ek laai nie die fotos op die Wd server nie. Die screen shot hier onder is opgelaai soos jy dit doen. Maak 'n Photobucket of ander free foto hosting rekening oop en stoor jou fotos daar. Jy kan van daar die links op ander plekke post.

Of betaal en kry 'n Smugmug rekening en jy kan jou fotos daar stoor permanent  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 13, 2015, 01:18:23 pm
We end up at La Rochelle to celebrate Michnus’ birthday with freshly caught oysters and copious amounts of local beer. La Rochelle is a must stop – we just loved the old harbour, all the seafood restaurants and the little shopping streets. La Rochelle although a bit touristy seems to attract a lot of the snooty nose in the air yacht owners. Well how else they are the pillars of society and need to show their importance. It’s all quite fun walking around with our rags rubbing shoulders at larny cafe’s with the blue and white stripe sailors.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-7skRgFr/0/L/i-7skRgFr-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RFL6LXz/0/L/i-RFL6LXz-L.jpg)
Wibien, the Dutch dentist we met in Africa with the 1972 VW pick up flew to Bordeaux and she spend a week with us hanging around La Rochelle.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FMsDTgt/0/L/i-FMsDTgt-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-46TqS7H/0/L/i-46TqS7H-L.jpg)
Don't know this brand but you sure act like a monkey when consuming too much of it.
:lol8:
Title: Don't click if nudity offend.
Post by: michnus on April 13, 2015, 01:26:22 pm
Okay, it may seems a like a bit of perving. More like a 13 year old who sees a steal boob for the first time.  :lol8:
But to South Africans the top-less and nudity beaches are an unknown attraction. We however loved the freedom that embraced the people on the topless beaches – no uncomfortable staring and shy bodies. We loved it.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-JSr2JRk/0/M/i-JSr2JRk-M.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bM2g3dB/0/M/i-bM2g3dB-M.jpg)

(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2014/12/france-2013-101-e1421236852166.jpg)
South of France beaches topless tanning is still very much loved by most women. It is refreshing to see women enjoy their freedom.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-38PTVWc/0/L/i-38PTVWc-L.jpg)
Picked up a friend from the airport in Bordeaux – yes, picked her up with our bikes! We moved some luggage around and there you have it – two bikes, two tents, three people and an adventure ahead!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-FpbqShH/0/L/i-FpbqShH-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Welsh on April 13, 2015, 01:58:25 pm
No picture of you Topless Michnus  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Ganjora on April 13, 2015, 02:08:10 pm
this thread just got better.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 13, 2015, 02:08:56 pm
No picture of you Topless Michnus  :biggrin:

Already to much violence in the world  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on April 13, 2015, 07:38:14 pm
Aitsa! Die Franse tannies lyk heel parmantig in die eva kleed!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 14, 2015, 10:46:36 am
Aitsa! Die Franse tannies lyk heel parmantig in die eva kleed!

Ja dit is maar moeilik om nie die oog te laat dwaal nie.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: cloudgazer on April 15, 2015, 09:05:45 am
I started reading this ride report from the beginning again.
As a result I have not done any work for the last 2 days.
 ;D

I've said it before, and I'll say it again - you guys rock!!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: woody1 on April 15, 2015, 09:36:39 am
Toe julle die plekkie in Parys gehuur het was dit miskien by die Bois de Boulonge ?

http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-hotel-accommodation/68181/Camping-Indigo-Paris- (http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-hotel-accommodation/68181/Camping-Indigo-Paris-)–-Bois-de-Boulogne

Ons het 'n paar keer daar 'n plekkie gehuur toe ons kontrak werk in Holland gedoen het.

Dankie vir die deel van julle storie.  Ons ry lekker saam.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 12:43:58 pm
I started reading this ride report from the beginning again.
As a result I have not done any work for the last 2 days.
 ;D

I've said it before, and I'll say it again - you guys rock!!!


Thanks man it really means a lot to us.  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 12:46:57 pm
Toe julle die plekkie in Parys gehuur het was dit miskien by die Bois de Boulonge ?

http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-hotel-accommodation/68181/Camping-Indigo-Paris- (http://en.parisinfo.com/paris-hotel-accommodation/68181/Camping-Indigo-Paris-)–-Bois-de-Boulogne

Ons het 'n paar keer daar 'n plekkie gehuur toe ons kontrak werk in Holland gedoen het.

Dankie vir die deel van julle storie.  Ons ry lekker saam.

Yes dit is die plek. Ons moes R700 per nag betaal maar die mense het ons verskriklik jammer gekry toe ons by ontvangs instap sop nat en dit was damn koud buite. Die girl gee ons toe n 3 bed hut vir R350 per nag. Elke dag met die bike in en uit Parys gery.. :biggrin:

Title: Bordeaux France.
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 12:59:55 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-R5NFwQP/0/L/i-R5NFwQP-L.jpg)
The biggest & highest dune in Europe – Dune de Pilat

Back in Bordeaux we quickly learned that camping in France is actually more an activity of ‘parking’ a caravan or RV. We camped at LeVillage DuLac and it felt a little bit like being in the Addo Elephant Park … us in our small tent surrounded by giants. Now, we love to mingle with all kinds of people, getting to know the cultures and differences between countries.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2ZRW9gw/0/L/i-2ZRW9gw-L.jpg)
Had to steal this photo. That patty is bloody raw! I mean slaughtered few hours before and a Vet can still make it moan.  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dnzLz3Q/0/L/i-dnzLz3Q-L.jpg)
Cheese, wine, fresh figs, and warm bread late afternoon on the Bordeaux river flowing past the city.

In France we found it generally difficult – yes, the language barrier did not help but it felt a little bit as if we were irritating the local community.  :lol8: We normally avoid restaurants due to our budget but on the one occasion we did wander into one, it was difficult to order and even worse when the meat turned out tough and we got solidly ignored when we tried to return the dish.  

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SQFTJDh/0/L/i-SQFTJDh-L.jpg)

Having our friend and her ‘school French’ did not help at all and at the Chateau Dillon we were told straight out ‘No’ we do not speak English and once more ignored. Anyway this is generalising – all in all this country is beautiful with stunning wine and cuisine. Look the French is known not to be fond of English or the Brits.  Generally France is a very nice country to travel and especially on motorcycle it’s great when on a tight budget.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8djvR6k/0/L/i-8djvR6k-L.jpg)

Bordeaux has a groovy vibe and there’s an energetic feel about the city. It’s old buildings really drives home the rich history while strolling around the narrow streets. Even the older people go about like they are still in their late 20’s. Wearing stylish hip clothing sitting outside cafe sipping on their espresso.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZcrDb97/0/L/i-ZcrDb97-L.jpg)
Wibiens tent is a tad to small and not waterproof :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Kerritz on April 15, 2015, 01:02:16 pm
Etter wat 'n lewe! Meeste mense kan maar net droom....maar ek dink solank jy nog kan droom het jy 'n kans.  :lol8:

Bleddie jaloers!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 01:08:01 pm
We had to spend some time in Bordeaux exploring before Wibien left. In the end it was a bit of serendipity. The French culture and way of life is something one can quickly get accustomed to.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CD68QRK/0/L/i-CD68QRK-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-DwsS3Jh/0/L/i-DwsS3Jh-L.jpg)
Old toppie nearly took his own head off watching the booty going past.  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8dwKxtF/0/L/i-8dwKxtF-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PJwK8CD/0/L/i-PJwK8CD-L.jpg)
All kinds of people makes the world go round.  :)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mbfwdCK/0/L/i-mbfwdCK-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 01:14:57 pm
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RdhQBmM/0/S/i-RdhQBmM-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gV66PxN/0/S/i-gV66PxN-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-BbqZSxK/0/S/i-BbqZSxK-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ThbQ4qp/0/S/i-ThbQ4qp-S.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-jRtZqH5/0/S/i-jRtZqH5-S.jpg) (http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-gPK376S/0/S/i-gPK376S-S.jpg)
Buy from Supermarkets and food is on average a bit more expensive than in SA. Bear in mind our currency is kakking which over R10/1Ue makes their food more expensive than in SA. Less than R10 and we score.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 01:19:16 pm
Etter wat 'n lewe! Meeste mense kan maar net droom....maar ek dink solank jy nog kan droom het jy 'n kans.  :lol8:

Bleddie jaloers!

Hier is hoe om dit te doen  :lol8:
http://www.pikipiki.co.za/supporters/how-to-earn-income-while-travelling-like-a-pauper/ (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/supporters/how-to-earn-income-while-travelling-like-a-pauper/)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: woody1 on April 15, 2015, 01:31:13 pm
Beauf Tartare is baie gewild in Europa

http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Rt-7-Steak-Tartare (http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Rt-7-Steak-Tartare)

Ek het ook maar net so gekyk na die spul en die mense jammer gekry wat nie 'n vuurtjie kan bekostig nie.  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 15, 2015, 01:36:47 pm
Beauf Tartare is baie gewild in Europa

http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Rt-7-Steak-Tartare (http://www.saveur.com/article/Recipes/Rt-7-Steak-Tartare)

Ek het ook maar net so gekyk na die spul en die mense jammer gekry wat nie 'n vuurtjie kan bekostig nie.  :imaposer:

Kyk ons almal smaak n medium or effe rou steak. Maar damn rou mince!? Huhuuu, nope. :eek7:

 :lol8:

Ons het Foie gras ook probeer en alhoewel dit kontroversiëel is smaak dit glad nie bad nie. 
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on April 16, 2015, 10:08:15 am
Janee ek stem, rou maalvleis is nie my idee van lekker eet nie
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 16, 2015, 11:14:46 am
Ek kan nog Perde vleis en sulke excotics try.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 16, 2015, 11:30:44 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-9mKN9zd/0/L/i-9mKN9zd-L.jpg)
Wild camping in France is so easy. Just buy some wine, cheese and bread and go look for a place to camp.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-mM7kpDp/0/L/i-mM7kpDp-L.jpg)
Laurant, aka Asian Rider. (http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=619155&highlight=asianrider) He circumnavigated Africa the same time as us and we met him at Jungle Jungle in Nairobi. We have stayed in touch ever since and was cool to stay with him and his fiancee for a few days. He showed us around Provence.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-73r2ZXQ/0/L/i-73r2ZXQ-L.jpg)
French country side in Provence region reminds you of the Western Cape.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-24pns3x/0/L/i-24pns3x-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-ZgCVcqR/0/L/i-ZgCVcqR-L.jpg)
Provence France, some of the grooviest mountain passes to enjoy on a bike! Not to mention the breathtaking views, cool villages and cafe’s to spent the days sipping on red wine.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-HL68Ndv/0/L/i-HL68Ndv-L.jpg)
La Ciotat harbor Provence France. We had way too much wine to drink sitting outside a small cafe.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-87r9s4H/0/L/i-87r9s4H-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-2dpG9F6/0/L/i-2dpG9F6-L.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Offshore on April 16, 2015, 11:39:31 am
Man that place is beautiful but btw, you cannot drink way too much Wine. Saak van onmoontlikheid.  ;D
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 16, 2015, 11:41:31 am
Man that place is beautiful but btw, you cannot drink way too much Wine. Saak van onmoontlikheid.  ;D

 :lol8: Jy is natuurlik korrek.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: RigDog on April 16, 2015, 11:48:07 am
No words to describe your trip so far.............................awesome!

Keep keeping us enthralled, and be carefull out there!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 16, 2015, 12:01:01 pm
No words to describe your trip so far.............................awesome!

Keep keeping us enthralled, and be carefull out there!

Dankie Rigdog. Daar is nog plenty om te kom.  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Andre E on April 16, 2015, 02:03:58 pm
Wonder as ek vir die kinders se dat universiteit gekanselleer is, dan vat ek hulle maar saam op so 'n trippie.

Miskien leer hulle meer..... :P
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 16, 2015, 04:43:02 pm
Wonder as ek vir die kinders se dat universiteit gekanselleer is, dan vat ek hulle maar saam op so 'n trippie.

Miskien leer hulle meer..... :P

wat is fout met die weeshuis?  :lol8:

 :peepwall:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Andre E on April 16, 2015, 04:57:03 pm
Wonder as ek vir die kinders se dat universiteit gekanselleer is, dan vat ek hulle maar saam op so 'n trippie.

Miskien leer hulle meer..... :P

wat is fout met die weeshuis?  :lol8:

 :peepwall:

Jy't hulle heel duidelik lanklaas gesien, groter kans dat hulle my in 'n outehuis gooi...... :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 16, 2015, 05:09:00 pm
Wonder as ek vir die kinders se dat universiteit gekanselleer is, dan vat ek hulle maar saam op so 'n trippie.

Miskien leer hulle meer..... :P

wat is fout met die weeshuis?  :lol8:

 :peepwall:

Jy't hulle heel duidelik lanklaas gesien, groter kans dat hulle my in 'n outehuis gooi...... :biggrin:

okay bliksem! Wel ek stem saam hulle sal meer leer om saam te travel.  :biggrin:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: RigDog on April 17, 2015, 11:18:10 am
okay bliksem! Wel ek stem saam hulle sal meer leer om saam te travel.   
 
 
 
They will be attending the 'University of Life' - nothing wrong with that!! :laughing4:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 17, 2015, 01:34:13 pm
Taking about learning, this is the book of my old friend Rene, he did 4 years around the world.  :deal:

(http://www.renedian.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/11/ugr_fron_cover.jpg)
http://www.amazon.com/The-University-Gravel-Roads-Motorcycle/dp/0981337112 (http://www.amazon.com/The-University-Gravel-Roads-Motorcycle/dp/0981337112)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on April 17, 2015, 01:39:46 pm
Short video clip from France

https://www.youtube.com/v/koBn8TRSPOI
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: brianw on April 20, 2015, 08:06:33 am
Michnus, i am reaaly enjoying your stories. thank you for making the effort. it is inspiring and informative.
well done ol chap
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: KarooKid on April 23, 2015, 09:58:04 pm
Ek pak sommer op en ry
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on May 14, 2015, 09:29:38 pm
Boys, girls and the rest, here's the thing. Sunday we are leaving for the USA. Plan is to buy 2 DR650's in Texas and then travel the US till Oct when we will be heading down to Mexico and South America. Eventually if all goes well back up again and up to Canada and Alaska. Might take 3 or so years, that is if bikes, limbs, money and health last that long.  :lol8:  :ricky:

From our experience WiFi and internet is but a miss and hit affair, more mis than affair.  :lamer:

This was part of the reason I got badly behind on updates, okay slapgatgeit ook maar. Most part is the utter frustration with uploading pictures and forum hosting software and such shit, and with travel it's all about pictures. Which you know eats data like nothing else. Not knowing what to expect, I have to limit the places where to share and post. I think for now will add updates and stories on our blog www.pikipiki.co.za. (http://www.pikipiki.co.za.) You can also subscribe here (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/about-pikipiki/11-reasons-to-subscribe-to-pikipiki/) and receive the updates we post on the blog. The blog post also include reviews and products stuff.
Just for kak praat and a quick know where we are Facebook as Michnus but really it's just for kak praat nothing much more than that. Forums on Advrider  (http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=696647) and on RoamAfrica (http://www.roamafrica.co.za/forum/index.php?topic=2287.0) purely because the software is much easier to use for post. If all goes to plan maybe I can do some updates here but do not want to promise and then won't be in a position to do so.

Cheers for eers  :thumleft:

Our post for Portugal is on our blog now: http://www.pikipiki.co.za/4-reasons-not-to-visit-portugal/#more-9692 (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/4-reasons-not-to-visit-portugal/#more-9692)
(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/04/4-reasons-not-to-visit-portugal-2013-800-x-533.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Avontier on May 15, 2015, 01:00:38 pm
Jô! Jy skuld my 'n hele Vrydagoggend. Moes eers bietjie opvang met al julle gatskuurdery. Sal nog so-iets moet doen eendag!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: silberfuchs on May 15, 2015, 01:41:16 pm

Sterkte vir julle twee in die nuwe wereld!!!

Ek hoop julle ry veilig en geniet alles. :ricky:
Geen papwiel, skoon brandstof en mooi weer!

Cheers

   G.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on May 15, 2015, 03:08:28 pm
Avontier boek die biere op my ek skuld jou  :biggrin:

Thanks Silberfucks, sal ons beste  try!  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Avontier on May 16, 2015, 06:38:37 pm
Avontier boek die biere op my ek skuld jou  :biggrin:


Julle sal maar moet bring as jy ooit hier verby kom.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: I&horse on May 24, 2015, 10:22:01 am
Wow Michnus!!!

Thanks for the enormous effort you are putting in to show us how life can be lived!!!

Do post a teaser here every now and again to remind us to check out out Pikipiki :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: 1ougat on May 25, 2015, 07:21:44 pm
What happened to your Dakars?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on May 25, 2015, 10:33:13 pm
Wow Michnus!!!

Thanks for the enormous effort you are putting in to show us how life can be lived!!!

Do post a teaser here every now and again to remind us to check out out Pikipiki :thumleft:


Thanks much I&Horse, and I will when possible try and update. I have finally be able to create a Facebook page. You can check there for in-between updates  :deal: ;)
http://www.facebook.com/PikiPiki.co.za (http://www.facebook.com/PikiPiki.co.za)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on May 25, 2015, 10:36:26 pm
What happened to your Dakars?

We stored them in Germany. It is stupidly expensive to ship bikes around the world, and we are not nearly finished with Eu. We will go back to the Eu to go to Turkey and East after the USA, Canada and South America. Also I need simpler bikes, running GS's get bliksems expensive. And they are heavy, we love the backroads and hauling a 230kg around is no fun.

Got our new, well new 2nd hand bikes this week, and got them registered on our names. We are taking over the USA...mu ha ha ha.  >:D :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on May 26, 2015, 12:47:38 am
Baie netjies, en eenvoudige lugverkoelde thumpers - way to go!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on May 26, 2015, 01:46:41 am
And still sold in the states brand new for around 5400us.  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on June 19, 2015, 05:32:38 pm
(http://www.pikipiki.co.za/wp-content/uploads/2015/06/bet-you-did-not-know-this-about-spain.jpg)
Queen: “Barcelona – It was the first time that we met” Passers by did not appreciate  my performance of Queens famous song.
After our memorable trip through Portugal, we were left with little time for Spain.  We mostly toured along the coastal areas.  Espana being such an unhurried relaxed and vibrant country, taught us lots of interesting bits.

But before we tell you about the interesting things you might not know about Spain, this is why we will return for sure! (http://www.pikipiki.co.za/bet-you-did-not-know-this-about-spain/)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: StuartC on June 19, 2015, 05:58:45 pm
enjoy the DR's watch this, makes a huge diffs on the bike https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbtnlF4XGso (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vbtnlF4XGso)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on June 24, 2015, 01:16:39 am
Thanks StuartC, ye it does. I bought a screen the other bike had a screen and then saw this low tech option. Would have costed me way less than R1000.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on June 24, 2015, 02:49:20 am
'Merica

How we ended in the USA was only due to our lovely SA passport allowing us 90days in the EU. The plan was to ride from Germany to Croatia and Bosnia, Turkey and on...you get the picture. But we need visas for Croatia, if, wanted to stay longer than the 7day transit...and so on and so on..

And then we decided to chuck Eu for now and do USA, Mexico and then down to South America and end in Ushuaia. And if all goes well back up again to Alaska. And seeing SA citizens need no visas for South America.
All good and fine but the bikes are fokin moeg. Africa took it's toll. So we left them in Germany for future use and made the decision to buy new'ish bikes in the USA. Low mileage and so on. In addition to ship bikes the world over is a very costly affair, that would already be the cost of half a bike. And then we can leave the bikes in the USA or South America.  

No BMW's again, damn heavy, farking expensive to maintain if not in a 1st world country. The DR650's are bulletproof....damn i hope so. I know Murphy is a dooos. And they are still sold in the USA new!! We bought and kitted both bikes for less than 160000ROND. The '11 with 2000miles and the '13 with 1500miles.

We spend a 3 weeks with Hank from www.motohank.com  (http://www.motohank.com)in a small town called Dilley Texas to prep the bikes. Even the fact that it is the USA parts takes time to arrive. And the shocks got build for our use. BTW, Hank is a super hero guru BMW mechanic and people come from damn far to have him service and work on their bikes. He owns a GS1100 with 500000miles on the odo, yip miles.

(http://static1.squarespace.com/static/54864aa2e4b06db74c2da351/t/54961161e4b098bb33b253fa/1419120997604/IMG_3507+-+Version+2.jpg?format=1000w)
Might know him from this photo in Bolivia. His bike was there already on over 400000miles.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dt4xM8d/1/M/i-dt4xM8d-M.jpg)
Hank from Motohank.

And so our 6 months visa we have 5 months left to go all the way up to Wyoming and back down the West coast to Baja in Mexico.

The next part of the adventure just started.  :thumleft: :ricky:
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dt4xM8d/1/L/i-dt4xM8d-L.jpg/img]Hank and his cool workshop in Dilley [img]http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Rb7dFqq/0/L/i-Rb7dFqq-L.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-6ZD2rPT/0/M/i-6ZD2rPT-M.jpg)
And we got the best shocks from Cogent Dynamics. (http://www.motocd.com/mc/) The best is they also send us a Round The World kit to fix the shocks if need be. Or get somebody to fix them. That is freaking amazing! From all the parts on a bike that will most likely cost you mega bucks on a trip it's the suspension.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-MCHLPfb/0/L/i-MCHLPfb-L.jpg)
One thing that makes me the happiest! Getting down from 13kg for the Dakar to 3kg for the DR650.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-Z2NBB4G/0/L/i-Z2NBB4G-L.jpg)
Ready to roll!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dWtZN4v/0/L/i-dWtZN4v-L.jpg)
What a luck, we rolled into this little town between Albuquerque and Sante fe and stop at the diner, damn shop, which was build for the movie Wild Hogs.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CnxR66Q/0/L/i-CnxR66Q-L.jpg)
Michelle a new friend gave us this damn fine Top Shelf tequila. SOAH....Source Of All Happiness. We carry it in our multi fuel bottle. No cop will try and drink that stuff if I tell him this is fuel for the stove.  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xB2FmcW/0/L/i-xB2FmcW-L.jpg)
The Source Of All Happiness.  :ricky:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zvp6WmP/0/L/i-zvp6WmP-L.jpg)
And today Sitting Bull Big chief gave my bike it's new name.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Welsh on June 24, 2015, 05:54:41 am
I think the 10kg saving on tools will help the suspension, since you are a B.U.F.F.... :peepwall:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: edgy on June 24, 2015, 09:11:35 am
Best tool for the job IMHO! :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Hentie @ Riders on June 24, 2015, 09:29:43 am
 :happy1:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on July 12, 2015, 12:46:50 am
From Texas, Big Bend to New Mexico, Colorado, Arizona and now Utah. We have already covered nearly 6000km the last month and a bit.

We got some stunning tracks to ride in Colorado that took us to 11000ft and a magnificent view over the San Juan mountains and in Utah the White Rim road. All those tracks from Advriders, otherwise we would never have seen the beauty of this enormous country.
And have met with so many cool people that have opened their homes to us. We are just blown away by the hospitality of the Yanks.
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vDWQBtn/0/XL/i-vDWQBtn-XL.jpg)
Yes I do Starbucks....and Mcdonalds....and all the other franchise outlets who's got WiFi to offer. :lol3

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dWtZN4v/0/XL/i-dWtZN4v-XL.jpg)
We roll into this small little town somewhere near Sante Fe and low and behold this is the place they shot the movie Wild Hogs. Except it is not diner anymore.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-S29DNT7/0/XL/i-S29DNT7-XL.jpg)
I have no idea. I know it's outside Los Alamos on the way back to Sante Fe we took some 2 track and eventually end up where the road was closed. The scenery made up for it.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-kgb8dPG/0/XL/i-kgb8dPG-XL.jpg)
Some cool tracks Dgoj gave us to ride from Durango to Telluride.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-3cVCTJ6/0/XL/i-3cVCTJ6-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-vGDNRVz/0/XL/i-vGDNRVz-XL.jpg)
Since we have no snow in South Africa we behave like delinquents when having the chance. :lol3

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-739FGZg/0/XL/i-739FGZg-XL.jpg)
The road topped out at 11000ft. The views are just mind blowing!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-dQDLjvL/0/XL/i-dQDLjvL-XL.jpg)

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on July 12, 2015, 12:51:30 am
(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-4rCxJBM/0/XL/i-4rCxJBM-XL.jpg)
Camping next to the Rio Grande.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-bzRsr6M/0/XL/i-bzRsr6M-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-q4rd55k/0/XL/i-q4rd55k-XL.jpg)
Feel all movie like riding towards Monument valley  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RbK5HmH/0/XL/i-RbK5HmH-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-XnM9Fdg/0/XL/i-XnM9Fdg-XL.jpg)
The Grand Canyon is truly something to behold.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-CDfgXPv/0/XL/i-CDfgXPv-XL.jpg)
Camping in the forrest on the North rim of the Canyon. Either pay 20us to camp in their park and get bugger all or pay zero and get a great camp place in the woods.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-VHw8Rcw/0/XL/i-VHw8Rcw-XL.jpg)
Zion National Park.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-8fHG9Bg/0/XL/i-8fHG9Bg-XL.jpg)
Bryce National Park.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RbB8xjC/0/XL/i-RbB8xjC-XL.jpg)
If for some reason you have never ridden the Burr trail from Boulder to Bullfrog, then make a plan. It's an incredibly beautiful stretch of road with towering cliffs, something like the Arches near Moab. It's one of the best kept secrets and no RV's or tourist or busses.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-pRSx5GC/0/XL/i-pRSx5GC-XL.jpg)
Camping at Lake Powell in the 4th of July. At least we got to see some fireworks.

Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on July 12, 2015, 12:54:51 am

It's simple. The white rim trail is a day ride. Well I would have love to camp there. But it's an absolute must ride. The scenery and ride makes this just a stunning groovy route.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-H3G9W6R/0/XL/i-H3G9W6R-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-z6dxScd/0/XL/i-z6dxScd-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-F2f94Jv/0/XL/i-F2f94Jv-XL.jpg)
We took some pass going up from the Colorado which was washed away from rains. In the end we had to drag the 1200GSA up the last bit of the pass.
We met the Canadian husband/wife couple a few days earlier. When we said we want to ride the White rim trail they asked if they can accompany us. Well, there's nothing like making new friends, especially if you spend some time together dragging a bus up a mountain.  :lol8:

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-nL4HBgg/0/XL/i-nL4HBgg-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tR9DgGH/0/XL/i-tR9DgGH-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-B3kV3Sg/0/XL/i-B3kV3Sg-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-xLmqzHd/0/XL/i-xLmqzHd-XL.jpg)
The mighty Colorado river.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-G2kfQ3P/0/XL/i-G2kfQ3P-XL.jpg)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: zetman on July 12, 2015, 01:26:50 am
 :thumleft:
goeie werk love dit

Hoe LOOP die DR'S? ???
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Xpat on July 12, 2015, 01:45:42 am
Nice, very nice!  :thumleft:

You probably cannot be bothered, but just in case you might, you can post the pictures bigger - if you go and modify your post, you can change the width and height of the picture next to the 'IMG' tag. I think at least the scenery pictured deserve proper size!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on July 12, 2015, 02:23:01 am
:thumleft:
goeie werk love dit

Hoe LOOP die DR'S? ???

Flippen lekker! Moes Afrika al met hulle gedoen het. Ligter, makilker, koedkoper en beter off road as die BMW's  :thumleft:  Maar tyd sal sien of hulle sal hou.  :lol8:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: evansv on July 12, 2015, 06:44:59 am
:thumleft:
goeie werk love dit

Hoe LOOP die DR'S? ???

Flippen lekker! Moes Afrika al met hulle gedoen het. Ligter, makilker, koedkoper en beter off road as die BMW's  :thumleft:  Maar tyd sal sien of hulle sal hou.  :lol8:

Those DR's are like AK's boet. They don't break sommer.

Great report! The trip looks amazing!!!

Thanks for sharing  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Welsh on July 12, 2015, 07:47:54 am
Also love Colorado Mich,  8) 8)

(http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a236/IWelshman/pikes/Pikes047.jpg) (http://s12.photobucket.com/user/IWelshman/media/pikes/Pikes047.jpg.html)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: gser on July 12, 2015, 04:58:08 pm

 Nog bier pics ?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on July 13, 2015, 05:20:56 am
Thanks Evansv.  :thumleft:

We missed Pike's Peak Welsh, it was just too far East. But the rest of Colorado made up for it.

Will get some more beer pics Gser when we get proper internet again.  ;)
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: BiG DoM on July 13, 2015, 06:56:52 am
Also pleased you got down to the SW and New Mexico - I spent a year there some time back, mostly in Albuquerque and surrounds but also further South.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Warren Ellwood on July 13, 2015, 03:12:34 pm
Eish Michnus. This is all just so amazing. I am so envious.

Whatever are you going to do when this is all over. It seems like your bucket list will be null and void.

Safe travels.


Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on July 13, 2015, 07:18:30 pm
Ek sal van my ex kan vergeet in daai canyon, so soooooo mooi!!
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Jakkals on July 14, 2015, 04:33:26 pm
Baie nice, en ek like daai DR's  :thumleft:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on July 15, 2015, 05:21:44 pm
BigDom we really enjoyed New Mexico and places like Sante Fe. The arts and sculpture scene is pretty cool there.

Thanks Warren  :thumleft:

Jakkals, the DR's is nou nie die beste hardcore Dakar races en power nie, maar as overland tools doen hulle n damn goeie job.  ;)
Title: Inside KLIM - Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on August 03, 2015, 05:06:40 pm
This is not your average rag job adventure clothing company.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-tFQGRwC/0/XL/i-tFQGRwC-XL.jpg)
Funny Emily and Ashley at reception.
With our current motorcycle clothing getting a bit rough around the edges and resemble beggars rags. People told us KLIM is on our route and should stop at KLIM to have a look at their pimp daddy stuff. KLIM is located in Idaho Falls, and what a good place to be! Idaho offer some super groovy snow and dirt to play while testing KLIM stuff.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-qVgccK5/0/XL/i-qVgccK5-XL.jpg)
Hanging a 1200GS BMW from a KLIM jacket!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-RBVQx6d/0/XL/i-RBVQx6d-XL.jpg)
KTM 1190 hanging on a KLIM jacket!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NvcVwnZ/0/XL/i-NvcVwnZ-XL.jpg)
Brett, G'day Aussie and VP Marketing and Sales took out on his busy schedule to show us around the facilities.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-5v3xQSN/0/XL/i-5v3xQSN-XL.jpg)
So many designs there's not enough space in the offices for all the work they do.

BTW, KLIM is pronounced “climb” as in climb up a hill or a single track with a snow mobile or motorcycle. Also Justin Summers the man who started KLIM said jokingly to us it says MILK backwards. What struck us upfront was the friendly, happy working demeanor of the people at KLIM. They are the active outdoor adventure types and got it even better by working for a company like KLIM. This bunch lives for snow, dirt and the outdoors!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-NCPKHjL/0/XL/i-NCPKHjL-XL.jpg)
The secret place in KLIM! Spy movie stuff! This is where the new products, sample testing and prototypes are made.

We were treated like VIP’s by Brett the VP of Marketing and Sales and Stacy who deals with International customers. They gave us a tour of the facilities and took the time to tell us what differentiate KLIM from the rest of the main stream outfits. Our tour even included the design studios and places where secret plots are hacked to make even better protection when having a “yard sale” - You know when you eat dirt and your bike and stuff are thrown allover the place?!

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-PrM4b4s/0/XL/i-PrM4b4s-XL.jpg)

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-53FTnmh/0/XL/i-53FTnmh-XL.jpg)

The amount of research, technology, planning and testing going on in KLIM are just mind blowing insane. KLIM do not follow the main stream brands they are innovators. They have some universities assisting them with product and fabric research. They have partnered with Gore-Tex, D30, Cordura, WindStopper, 3M Scotchlite, YKK to enable them to manufacture clothing for motorcyclist, snow boarders, snowmobile riders and off-road enthusiast the absolute best stuff. It is evident there’s been a lot of thought put into the products.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-SnVjc3N/0/XL/i-SnVjc3N-XL.jpg)
Stacy, showing me how gloves are supposed to fit.

Some suites have Gore-tex waterproof fabric build into the suite and therefore no need to carry a rain suite around. KLIM understand venting and to keep cool in extreme heat. The fit and sizing is proper and not your typical Pakistan made clothing. It’s easy to understand why Dakar riders and competitive racers use KLIM, they are just on a whole different universe from the mainstream stuff on offer.

And they must be the only brand offering a Lifetime warranty on their products. If ever you have the time and chance to visit them go have a look, it’s a really cool experience.

(http://www.smugmug.com/photos/i-zZzTTrm/0/XL/i-zZzTTrm-XL.jpg)
Look at the gnarly transport KLIm people use to haul Snowmobiles and bikes around Idaho to play and test.
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: Tom van Brits on August 03, 2015, 05:42:28 pm
All good, but I am sure pricey as well.
I would not mind some of their gear though, real quality products and looks great
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: I&horse on August 03, 2015, 06:41:06 pm
Lifetime warranty  :o

I think I'll get some then, they might change their policy  :imaposer:
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: windswept on July 22, 2016, 01:53:26 pm
michnus, I've been reading your RR on Adv Rider. Are you not going to put it here on WD?
Title: Re: Round the World - Do you have beer we are coming to visit?
Post by: michnus on September 13, 2016, 04:50:19 pm
michnus, I've been reading your RR on Adv Rider. Are you not going to put it here on WD?

Sorry Windswept would have loved to continue but I stopped as very few here read it and it's a mission and work to keep it up. The local crowd that followed here is in any case doing so on Advrider or our FB.  
 :-[