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Messages - ClimbingTurtle

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1
KTM LC8 950/990 / Re: F*($*@&^*@(&^$ KTM!
« on: January 15, 2018, 07:38:13 am »
I am sorry - How on Earth can you "not wash a bike" just in case it doesn't start????
To me that means k@k design, engineering or some badly planned positioning - in this day and age its ridiculous to think that a bike cant get wet!

And I so badly want to buy one, I have a possible option on a 990A that I am seriously considering, but k@k like this.....!  :o

The following users thanked this post: Marbroza

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General Bike Related Banter / Re: KTM 790 ADVENTURE
« on: December 11, 2017, 08:55:15 am »
Does seem a pity when you see how slim that engine is in the Duke - I guess they may still work on it but clearly some tooling has been done for the tank already. Also a tank with low lobes like that hinders getting at the engine without stripping lots off ...

I think Yamaha needs to bring out a MT-09 adventure bike. is this on the cards? a shame that the adventure bike is seemingly always heavier than the road version. road versions can hit just below 200kg wet. I really like the MT-09 tracer, that engine just needs to be tuned for torque but keep it below 210kg!

I think it is going to be a fatty. Not sure why they are dragging their feet but the Japs do test properly before going to market. No good reason why a DS bike under 800cc needs to be over 200kg  :o  A 690 is 150kg wet - even a twin with 100cc more displacement does not need another 50kg of lard!!

Always been my argument - add another 20kgs and you have a R1200GS, which is a great touring bike, but as far as a light DS bike..... Not so much....
The following users thanked this post: The_Boats

3
Ag dammit :(

At the moment I can only afford the cheap stuff.

Or maybe I can rather ask, what is the lowest I could budget to start out with?
What nonsense. I bought my raleigh 15 to 20 years ago from Makro and still riding it. The bicycle will outlast me.
As a beginner you do not need to buy expensive at all unless the "pose value" is important to you.. Get a cheapie
like an entry level raleigh ,maintain it and it will last you many years. Remember I am 120 + kg myself.

However, 15-20 years ago you weren't buying the rubbish that hey sell now! I also had a Raleigh from Game - but what hey sell now is not comparable....

My suggestion would be to look at the sites listed, do some research on the models offered regarding size & specs, also visit the bigger bike shops - see what they have as "last years models" and trade-ins (Northcliff Cycles had a selection when I was last there), CayJees, and buy the best you can afford.
I bought a brand new Trek Alu frame MTB at Cash converters about 12 years ago for 25% of the new price - grey import shipment sold after a court order - bike was still in the box, unassembled..... So Look at the Pawn Shops too!!
Dont forget you need a helmet as well - and gloves just make riding easier - these are from Sportsmans Warehouse - base model stuff is cheap, and reasonable for what you need innitially.
The following users thanked this post: Wayne

4
General Technical / Re: Easiryder Towing System
« on: November 27, 2017, 09:44:34 am »
Might do - wouldnt chance it tho.

Pretty good idea - someone got bored after a few beers and....

 :thumleft:

Only issue i can see is exceeding the max weight on the tow-hitch....
The following users thanked this post: Mudmonkey

5
Steve you will need to elaborate more. We were discussing 2 things here, tube notching and flattening of the tube ends. From what I understand you are suggesting something for doing tube notching?
Perhaps you can show us some pics of the items you are suggesting.

I will knock something up this afternoon and take some pics.....
[/quote]

Morning!
OK - I was talking about the Notching aspect - apologies, I "ignored" the flattening aspect....  :biggrin:

Right - what I suggest is a Magnetic Base Drilling Machine - hugely powerful (mine is 2000w) and can cut up to about 75mm diameter with a Carbide Tipped Annular Cutter (Pic 3).
Mine is mounted on a plate on a vertical drilling machine stand that I bought at an auction for R100 and modified - but you can see more or less what I would do from pics 1 & 2 - the standard drill has a MT3 internal taper and comes with a guided spindle with a 3/4" (19.05mm) bore - Ppic 2 i removed that and inserted a MT3 drill chuck.
I suggest an adaptor be made up, 3/4" drive with a bore that can hold a standard Hole Saw shank (bore with 3 grub screws to lock it in)
If the Mag base was laid flat and the magnet removed, a permament mount could be built and a job-specific machine created. I would add a couple of V-blocks to hold the pipes, with a vertical toggle clamp t hold the pipe onto the V-block.
The following users thanked this post: Dustdevil

6
My suggestion would be to make your own using Toggle Clamps and V-blocks to hold the material, and a Magnetic Base drill for the cutters action. Remove the Mag Base section and bolt it to whatever you use - can be vertical or horizontal.

I can quote on all of these obviously, but the design and manufacture of the base structure would be your own....

Loving the build, one day when I am big, but realistically I suspect this is maybe out of my range of expertise. At this time, at any rate.e

Steve

Steve you will need to elaborate more. We were discussing 2 things here, tube notching and flattening of the tube ends. From what I understand you are suggesting something for doing tube notching?
Perhaps you can show us some pics of the items you are suggesting.

I will knock something up this afternoon and take some pics.....
The following users thanked this post: Dustdevil

7
General Bike Related Banter / Re: Toy Run this Sunday
« on: November 23, 2017, 11:14:40 am »
Its Big.

I live very close to the end point, so I normally ride out to the meeting point at the Blockhouse and ride in with them - normally around 1500 bikes from there, maybe more....

Fine as a one-off ride, be VERY vigilant, most of the riders are not used to group rides of that size, but it's slow, so take it easy.

Well worth doing though, take lots of small toys rather than one big one.

Uninvited here on the forum is the chief organizer of the Jhb run - Graeme.
The following users thanked this post: Brucet

8
My suggestion would be to make your own using Toggle Clamps and V-blocks to hold the material, and a Magnetic Base drill for the cutters action. Remove the Mag Base section and bolt it to whatever you use - can be vertical or horizontal.

I can quote on all of these obviously, but the design and manufacture of the base structure would be your own....

Loving the build, one day when I am big, but realistically I suspect this is maybe out of my range of expertise. At this time, at any rate.

Steve
The following users thanked this post: Dustdevil

9
General Bike Related Banter / Re: Scott riding gear
« on: November 22, 2017, 08:06:42 am »
@ Chris.  Any iďea about price yet for the Scott DualRaid jacket?

And colour options?

Same questions from me  :)

AND ME!
I would consider that over the BMW jacket, purely on looks....
so PM me a price or something/?
The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick

10
General Bike Related Banter / Re: Bolt / Screw descriptions
« on: November 20, 2017, 02:23:30 pm »
Somehow I'm not asking google the right questions - what does the numbering on screw part numbers mean.  Take the following for example:

Post the website that this info came from, if you could?

Also not sure about the WS=10....

I think we are talking machine screws and bolts, the OP is talking wood screws.  8)

Not sure about that. A wood screw is measured in numbers (#8, #10 etc.) and length, while bolts are measured diameter & length (M8x16), HH makes sense meaning hex head - in spite of the mention of "screw"

Tensile strength is a possibility, but I think unlikely as it is normally noted as TS and the common strngths are 8.8 and 12.9 - not seen 10 before, but I suppose its possible.

I think we could probably work it out with the website the OP got the info from?
The following users thanked this post: SJohan

11
Note to self: don't ever play Snooker against Big Oil (not after what he said about his lack of photography skills  :o).

 :thumleft:

Indeed....  :patch:
The following users thanked this post: big oil

12

You may laugh at the types of food I enjoy.


That looks damn fine, if I might say!!!

 :thumleft:
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13
Wild Dog Pictures / Re: Some wildlife Photo's (add yours)
« on: November 09, 2017, 02:33:40 pm »
Reply #587, what is that little critter eating what we call a wasp or yellow-jacket?

Robber Fly as far as I know?
The following users thanked this post: big oil

14
General Bike Related Banter / Re: Advice needed from the clever manne
« on: October 12, 2017, 07:31:51 am »
The factory acceptable oil usage is 800ml per 1000km.

JOH!!!
And I thought the GSA was evil using 100ml/1000km.....  :biggrin:

Back on topic, hope the issues are minor and you can learn to love the bike - I reckon I would have done the same deal as you had I been in your shoes/boots...
The following users thanked this post: Bashplate

15
General Technical / Re: Is this going to be a problem? K60 scout
« on: October 06, 2017, 08:24:17 am »
Contact Bike Gear in PE - Matthew - they are the importers - very nice guys to deal with, they will advise you if there are issues

PM me if you want his email.
The following users thanked this post: miks

16
General Technical / Re: The Pooratech Thread
« on: August 28, 2013, 03:56:15 pm »
I have 3 GPS's and each one will required its own unique bracket.

So what do you do when one GPS says "Turn LEFT",
the second says "Turn RIGHT"
and the third one says "Continue 32 kilometres to viapoint"?  ;D

Don't even joke - had exactly that happen in Nylstroom going to Nylsvlei - and they were ALL f@rking wrong!!!  :imaposer:

Hijack Off!!
The following users thanked this post: APAPOP

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