Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register

Show Posts

This section allows you to view all posts made by this member. Note that you can only see posts made in areas you currently have access to.

Messages - Jughead

Pages: [1] 2 3
BMW 1200/ADV / Re: Help needed on 1200 adventure '' Strange noise''
« on: September 21, 2018, 03:26:58 pm »
There is nothing on the clutch that can make a noise.  Either crush drive shaft or gearbox bearings, or both.
The following users thanked this post: KD

BMW 650GS / Dakar / XChallenge Singles / Re: Plans for my Dakar
« on: September 21, 2018, 06:44:15 am »
Here is a pic of 2 Dakars side by side.  The blue one on the left has had the mod done.  No lengthening of the sidestand at all.  The ugly red and white one on the right has had no mods done.
The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick

BMW 650GS / Dakar / XChallenge Singles / Re: Plans for my Dakar
« on: September 20, 2018, 09:04:14 pm »
...the Dakar's lean because the factory fitted a side-stand from a 19" front wheel bike (650-single) to it's taller cousin, the 21" front-wheel Dakar (and Sertao, etc...)

We've had a 'fix' for a couple of years now, but unsure whether I showed it, so here it is:

when fitting a Motorradical side-stand enlarger, you INSERT a HDPE (high-density-poly-ethylene) spacer, shaped to fit the side-stand enlarger, and that gives it just the right amount of vertical lean so it will not blow over in the wind, etc, but you do NOT have to take a running jump (!) over a bike that leans way too much.

(you re-use the existing dome-nuts, but buy 4 slightly longer bolts...)

We also have a solution for the KTM 640, and just fitted Cloud-gazer's new ride with same.
(pic of KTM 640 to show ITS lean, before we fitted the spacer...)

Chris & Team

That's what I was planning for mine, but I am going to be raising the bike by like 25mm due to the USD forks.

2 ways I will extend the stand
1) cut and weld bar on insert to stand
2) Add extension to foot

There is actually a much better fix for the lean angle of the Dakar.

Remove the "undercarraige" complete with sidestand.  Using a thin 1mm cutting disk in a small grinder, cut through the top weld of the sidestand mounting.  Re-install the "undercarraige", lean the bike to the desired angle and, stepping on the sidestand, push it down to close the gap between it and the ground.  Don't overdo it.  The bike will stand too upright.

Remove the "undercarraige" again and re-weld the joint.  Touch up with some Rustolium Satin Canyon Black and re-install.


Will post some pics when I do another one.
The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick

iI have had no clutch issues since my service. seems like oil was the issue

The oil is often the issue.  If you have just purchased a bike and the clutch is slipping, chances are the previous owner "serviced" the bike himself and didn't use the correct oil.

Still the best oil to use in the 650s is Castrol ActEvo 10W40 or Castrol Power1 10W50, but any full synthetic oil WITH the JASO-MA2 spec will work.
The following users thanked this post: PompJoggie

General Technical / Re: NEOPRENE FORK SAVERS
« on: August 27, 2018, 01:58:05 pm »
Do they work? And if so, why are they not widely used?

Yes, they do work.

They are not used often as it is a PITA to fit them as the forks need to be removed from the triple clamps to do the job.
The following users thanked this post: ETS

General Technical / Re: Rear chainslider/ guard.
« on: August 21, 2018, 12:37:44 pm »
The closer the swingarm pivot point is to the front sprocket, the less the slack in the chain when the suspension is fully extended.  Some bikes have a massive gap between the two, with the result that when the rear wheel leaves the ground and the swingarm drops, the chain slackens to the extent that it stands a good chance of climbing off the sprocket.  This becomes particularly bad on bikes that have huge suspension travel.

On bikes like the F800, the pivot point is relatively close to the front sprocket and suspension travel is not that great that the bike requires a guide for the chain.
The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick

Once out, this is what you will have.

First pic is of the side that has been welded all the way around.
Second pic is of where the tack weld is.

The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick

You need to make 2 cuts.

Firstly, cut just inside the existing weld all the way around, as per the long red line in the pic.  This will cut the one end of the cat off the pipe itself.

Second is the short cut on the underside of the pipe.  Cut needs to be about 20 -30mm in length, and midway along the step as indicated by the short red line.  The cat is only tacked on on this end and you just need to cut through the tack weld.

Pull the cat out and weld back together.
The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick, Frodo7011

BMW 1200/ADV / Re: Feels like I am crabbing down the road
« on: June 20, 2018, 05:33:36 pm »
Did you remove the forks from the bike completely?

If so, you turned a 20min job into a 3 hour job and yes, I would agree that your front is still out.
The following users thanked this post: safetysteve

BMW 1200 LC / Re: R1200GSA Cam Adjustment
« on: June 01, 2018, 08:17:53 am »
Thanks guys. Very informative.

Jughead, how long does it take to do the cam alignment?

Around 30 min/side.  Valve clearances on the other hand are a bitch on the LC, requiring complete removal of the cams.
The following users thanked this post: FrankS

BMW 1200 LC / Re: R1200GS/A Cam Adjustment
« on: May 29, 2018, 05:19:01 pm »
I am looking at purchasing an LC but have a question.

I am told that the LC motor needs periodic cam adjustment.  Apparently the cams go out of sync with each other and this needs to be corrected when the bike is serviced.

Any truth in this?  A little concerning as this could eventually lead to valve damage, not so?

Correct.  Cams go out of adjustment resulting in vibration and a generally rough running motor.  Unfortunately special tools are required to get the correct alignment.  Unlike the older cams with sprockets that are locked in place, the LC has gears on the ends of the cam that are just held in place by the torque on the bolt..

I doubt if they will go so far out that they will cause valves to make contact with the piston.  Of course if the bolt comes loose, then, yes, you have a problem.  I will post some pics of the ones I have done to show how far out the cams are.
The following users thanked this post: FrankS

BMW 1100/1150/ADV / Re: Aaah! Why won't my brake pads fit.
« on: May 27, 2018, 01:49:03 pm »
Brake pad sizes are as follows:

Standard caliper - Pad Length 81mm, Width 45.9mm
EVO caliper - Pad Length 77mm, Width 51.5mm

So what you purchased is indeed a set of 1150 pads but for the EVO caliper while you have the standard caliper on your bike.
The following users thanked this post: SmuGS

BMW 1200 LC / Re: Moving gear lever
« on: May 23, 2018, 03:15:22 pm »
Jughead, I asked around and have been told that it is not possible to rotate my gear lever on the splines.  That would be a good solution but unfortunately not a starter, apparently. I would  however, like to make sure so this is a picture of the type of gearlever I have. Is it the same as yours?

Apologies, Dustlover.  I was referring to my '06 Adventure.

I have however checked on my wife's 2015 Adventure and you are correct, the lever cannot be moved on the spline.

There is a workaround though.  If you could remove the arm on the gearbox and take it in to an engineering place, get them to mill off the double tooth as indicted by the red circle in the pic below.  The arm will then be fully adjustable.
The following users thanked this post: dustlover

General Bike Related Banter / Re: Wake up call for us young 'uns.
« on: May 21, 2018, 03:37:28 pm »
You're only as old as the woman you feel!!

This reminds me of a colleague years ago.  He determined that his father, then aged 73, was getting too old to drive.  So he duly took the car away, flogged it and invested the money for the old man.

Since he no longer had a car, one of his mates used to come and pick him up and take him out for the day.  This became a regular habit, Monday, Wednesday and Friday, and sometimes when the weather was good, Saturday and Sunday too.

Alister was very chuffed seeing his old man happy and going about his life with his mates and without ever complaining about the lack of a car.  That was, until his 75th birthday.  Alister's wife had organised a huge party for the old man and some time into the proceedings, he stood up to make an announcement.  He went through all the thank-yous and then had a special thank you for Alister.

Since Alister had taken his car away he needed to find something else to do.  So, not to be bored, he gave himself a new present - The week before he had passed his PPL and was now a qualified pilot!

Apparently, at the end of his speech he turned to Alister and said " Try taking that away from me, you fucker!  :lol8:

The following users thanked this post: RobC, Coxwain

BMW 1200/ADV / Re: Traction control problem
« on: April 25, 2018, 10:35:44 am »
I had new tyres fitted last week ...

They would have had to remove the front calipers.  Check the front sensor wiring.

Had one about a month ago.  Client fitted new tyres.  A week later ABS started playing up and diagnostics pointed to the front sensor,  Checked it and they had routed the cable incorrectly and the disk had munched right through the cable.

I will have a look at that then, possibly the problem
I would assume the complete sensor and cable would need replacing if thats the case?
Or can it be repaired?

If you are VERY careful, and know how to solder, they can sometimes be repaired.  It is a shielded cable, so has to be done properly.
The following users thanked this post: Mikie

General Technical / Re: Service light reset
« on: April 18, 2018, 09:39:27 pm »
The GS911 for personal use can only be used on something like 10 VINs, thus if your bike is connected, one less slot is available.  By the time I sold mine, I think it had 2 slots available, thus reducing the ability to use it during an emergency.

The professional unit has unlimited  functionality and can be used on as many VINs as you want.  However, you may find it a problem getting someone who has not serviced the bike to reset the counter.
The following users thanked this post: mugga85

BMW F800GS / 700GS / 650GS Twins / Re: 2014 F800GS Motor Siezed
« on: April 12, 2018, 12:40:35 pm »
dit is 'n f....op. Has this happened before. Fist time I have heard about it.

Not that common, but have seen it before.  There is no harm in checking it every so often though.
The following users thanked this post: johanp

General Technical / Re: Fitting TPM sensor to 21" wheel
« on: April 04, 2018, 04:10:16 pm »
BUMP...I have another customer who also wanted to re-fit OEM (BMW) TPM, however the 'shoulders; of the sensor are too wide for the depression in the rim - anyone get a work-around?

Chris & Team

There is an aftermarket TPM sensor that also operates at 433MHz.  I have ordered one and am going to test and see whether the on board software will pick it up.  It is MUCH narrower (and cheaper) than the OEM ones.
The following users thanked this post: zebra - Flying Brick

General Technical / Re: XRV 750 AT sump plug leakage
« on: March 22, 2018, 01:12:23 pm »
I need some advice please

Disclaimer:  my technical knowledge extends to the ability to "phone a friend"

I had some oil leaking from the sump plug on my XRV 750 AT.  When I checked, the plug was loose and I could remove it by hand without using any tools.

I am going to replace the copper washer.  I am however afraid that the plug will come loose again by itself.  Did anybody had the same problem?
Any advice on how to make sure it will not come loose again??

If it was torqued correctly it would not come loose.
The following users thanked this post: SuperDavexlv750r

General Technical / Re: Self-repairing gearbox - what happened?
« on: March 19, 2018, 08:56:51 pm »
It is most likely the shift cam roller that had gone AWOL into the sump.

Part 11 in this diagram.


Will post the pic tomorrow.  I would get it sorted asap while it is still cheap.  Leaving it normally results in a broken gearbox.  Done a few of them.

I know its not from the same bike, but this is what the roller should look like.

Here is the photo of a buggered shift cam roller from an XT660R.  All that is left on the arm is the core of the bearing.  The outer race of the bearing and the balls end up in the sump and are normally just expelled when draining the oil.  Few people even notice the bits falling out.
The following users thanked this post: OomD

Pages: [1] 2 3