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Offline wildside

SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« on: January 17, 2019, 10:34:38 pm »
[size=14pt]SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ The Lake of Stars
                                        ....Malawi , Tanzania, Mozambique.... DECEMBER 2018
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The idea of riding all the way around Lake Malawi from the southern shores of Malawi,  up through Tanzania down to the eastern shore of the now Lake Nyasa and into Mozambique continuing down the eastern shore of the same Lago Niassa had been on our minds for about 3 years now but there was always some reason why we couldn’t pull it off. However, finally our plans were in motion with the intention of actually doing this trip. We dangled the carrot for our daughter, Roxy, whose first adventure ride was to Kubu Island in 2016.  http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=192841.msg3566810#msg3566810

To our delight she grabbed the opportunity to keep us company and participate in this ride. Once she had booked her tickets from the Netherlands, confirming her decision, we knew that this adventure was now for real!
Hopefully some readers will find my account of our ride around the lake of interest. I have called it ‘Squaring the Circle’ as it was by no means an impossible ride but at some stages it seemed fairly improbable that we would complete the circle.


“ You who are on the road
Must have a code that you can live by...
Teach your children well...
And feed them on your dreams.... ”              Graham Nash       


Believe it or not we had done a lot of preparation for this trip. We tried our best to ‘Google’ other people’s travels around Lake Malawi but information and experiences were not available. The adventure riding sites and 4x4 travel forums also came up with nothing. The info may have been there but we couldn’t find anything that would help us in planning our route down the eastern side of the ‘Lake of Stars’ ...as David Livingston once referred to it.

We worked with ‘open street maps’ and Google Earth when plotting our route as close to the eastern shores as possible. So the roads were there and we managed to connect all the villages we were passing through. We tried to keep off the main roads by finding the shortest route.  After many frustrating weeks of plotting we tweaked it to the point where we could ‘fly’ the route on Google Earth. We did it...we had our route and it was doable!



Above is the the Map of the 585 km long Rift Valley Lake Malawi which is split between Malawi, Tanzania and Mozambique. It is the fourth largest freshwater lake in the world by volume and the nineth largest lake in the world by area.
The route we originally planned is the grey route and the blue is the actual route completed. At times I have had to fill in the route manually as the GPS would have been off to save batteries or perhaps the batteries were flat.


Our recently replaced Honda XR 650’s were sporting new back tyres and were ready to take on the new African terrain. Roxy’s bike was a newly purchased old Honda 200 R, with electric start. The only work done on it was a service, a luggage rack and a long range tank – probably worth more than the bike. So the trailer and bikes were also ready to roll.
The distance was just too far for us to ride these small bikes to Malawi so we would be trailering the bikes to Cape Maclear – southern shores o Lake Malawi. Once again we had made arrangements with Geoff and Karin from Fat Monkey’s to leave the Hilux and trailer there until our return.

We were fully aware that it was the wet season up there as we had experienced it 7 years ago when ‘Riding the Rift’ ( http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=90093.msg1774124#msg1774124 ) but December is the only time we have available to take time off work so we were prepared for wet and muddy conditions....or so we thought!


“Since we can rarely foresee the consequences of anything you do, you may as well do it.”           W.H.Austen




THURSDAY 13 DECEMBER 2018
HOWICK (KZN) to CAPE MACLEAR – MALAWI :  2627 Km



“ I’m going up the country, babe don’t you want to go
I’m going to some place I’ve never been before
I’m going where the water tastes like wine
We can jump into the water, stay drunk all the time.”          Canned Heat



It was so good to see Roxy again. She had arrived the previous afternoon and still had some final packing to do so there was a lot of last minute fussing. Preparing for this trip took up a lot of time and by the time we left at 4 am I was physically and mentally exhausted. Sitting in a vehicle doing nothing, except talking, for the next two days was just what I needed.


Roxy fighting off boredom.




 Catching up with Roxy added some excitement and humour to our trip. We chatted so much along the way that we enjoyed very little sleep. We entered Swaziland at Lavumusa border Post and had no problems there. It was very quiet. We assumed that all the trucks had started using the new road via Kosi Bay to Maputo.



Our cross over from Swaziland into Mozambique was a drama. It was very quiet here and it appeared that we were the only tourists. As usual the ‘runners’ were immediately indicating where we should park. We ignored the guy who, never the less, insisted on sticking close to us. After getting out passports stamped at Immigrations we moved over to Customs where the officer behind the counter gave the ‘runner’ the forms to complete. When we gave him the genuine value of the vehicle, trailer and 3 bikes he insisted on making them lower as he said we would have to pay R 25 000 for our TIP (Temporary Import Permit) if we gave the real value. We knew this was nonsense and realised this was the starting process of a bribe. Regardless we left the form as he had filled it in and went back to the vehicle. Here he asked for his money. Kingsley offered him R 100 which he immediately declined and requested more because he had saved us a lot of money. It ended up in a loud disagreement and Kingsley being told to keep his voice down. In the meantime we had found the number for the SA Embassy in Maputo and informed them we were making the call. There was no reply, however, Roxy made out that she was having a conversation with them.  Kingsley returned inside, was given another form by the officer, completed it with the genuine values, handed it back and walked out without further adieu and no payments made.  This incident just left us feeling so rattled and had wasted an hour of our time.


A snatch of local village life in Mozambique


I couldn't get enough of all the bright colours of the materials and wares


By the time we reached Maputo it was late afternoon and we slowly worked our way out of the hustle and bustle and headed north...more time wasted. We were all tired by now as we had been on the road for over 12 hours.  Xai- Xai was our choice for an overnight stop. It was late evening when we arrived at the backpackers and badly timed with a power failure. The light of the torch was enough to put me off the place and the lack of secure parking confirmed our decision to look elsewhere. Further down the road was the campsite. This was also a poor choice. We decided it was safer to just travel through the night. Lack of tourism to these areas has taken its toll on these resorts. What was once a thriving holiday destination is now a rundown and forgotten part of Xai-Xai.

We took turns to sleep and drive. This stretch of road is so long and fortunately the condition of the road up to Vilanculos was very good which made for safe driving in the dark but there after it was a shocking road. The left over tar road was so badly potholed that it was wiser to use the gravel section of road on either side. This reduced our travelling speed a great deal and the 403 km to Inchope was frustratingly slow. The scary part about this section were the huge trucks that thundered and bounced towards us and from behind encouraging us to go faster. The poor trailer bounced and jolted around behind us but the bikes were firmly strapped down and didn’t create a problem.


These narrow roads made it difficult to over take.





Now these guys know how to pack!!


Somewhere along the way the trailer finally objected to the hectic roads and popped a tyre. Thanks to the truck behind us indicating that something was amiss we were made aware of a flat. Damn.... more time wasted!








Roxy took this opportunity to entertain some local kiddies






Getting the punctured tyre repaired.


Heading up towards Tete we decided we had to stop for the night otherwise we would just have to sleep at the Mozambique/Malawi border post and besides we were too exhausted to travel further.

While Kingsley was sleeping Roxy and I found our way to some accommodation in Tete along the shores of the mighty Zambezi River.  What a relief to arrive here, have a shower, freshen up and have a good night’s sleep.
We left after breakfast the following morning.




The impressive Zambezi River...and the impressive Hondas  :thumleft:


One of the bridges crossing over the Zambezi

Tete to Zobue (Mozambique/Malawi border post) was another 122 km which should take us about 2 hours but after finding a fuel station, filling up, buying coffee and the bad road conditions delayed us a lot.



Another typical day in a Mozambique village


Arriving at the Mozambique/Malawi border post at 9.45 am

Exiting Mozambique was no problem at all as we slipped through any little gap we could find to  pass the extended line of trucks snaking down the road and get closer to the border post.

Once again we ignored the ‘runners’ or 'dobadobas', as they are sometimes referred to, at the Malawi border post and paid a high price in regards to time for it.

 


I think this sign is purely for show...as the 'dobadobas' are plentiful.

 We thought we were so cool in getting all our paperwork done, TIP sorted and Innoculation certificates checked and on departing were informed that, unlike Mozambique, each motorbike had to have its own TIP. So after 2 hours, USD80 poorer ($20 per bike and vehicle) and 40 000 Malawian Kwacha ( 10 000 MWK per vehicle for road tax - about ZAR190 each) later we breathed a sigh of relief and rolled into Malawi (+/-ZAR 1300). This was now our third day of travelling.

 About 10km down the road we were stopped by the police and documents checked. They refused to accept our insurance. We were covered by our personal insurance which was accepted at the border post. So we had to turn around and head back to the border post. I went to the kind ladies who did our TIP’s and she laughed and said they had to accept it and promptly stamped and signed it. This worked and once again we set off in the direction of the lake. It was such a relief to have finally arrived in Malawi.
  It’s a scenic route to the lake and it was good to see the familiar little villages and the friendly folk.









The locals trying to make money from selling bags of coal....a very familiar sight all along the way





These chaps were in no hurry to moooove along.


The result of heavy rains was starting to become obvious as all along the road we could see vast expanses of water. The rains had arrived early this year.

It was evening by the time we completed our third full day of travelling, and with relief, entered through the welcoming gates of Fat Monkeys.
We now had the opportunity to celebrate Kingsleys 60th birthday - what was left of it. After a delicious meal of fried kampango, (a critically endangered species of fresh water catfish endemic to Lake Malawi)  we enjoyed the cake which the chef had kindly made for the occasion. Had we known then that kampango was endangered we certainly wouldn’t have eaten it.






                                                                CHEERS ~ TO OUR ADVENTURE    :ricky:
"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 
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Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #1 on: January 17, 2019, 11:15:54 pm »
Sub!! :drif: :thumleft:
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Offline RobLH

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2019, 08:48:03 am »
Definitely sub'd for this one. I was also in Malawi over New Year for a couple of weeks and took the same route as you, except I landed up at Chembe Eagle's Nest after being in Liwonde for a few days. Loved the country but didn't have any issues at the border as I used a dobadoba (where you paid with time I paid in kwacha).
 

Offline Black_Hawk

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2019, 08:51:41 am »
Subscribed  :sip:

You are very privileged to be able to do this as a family.

Looks like a awesome trip, thanks for sharing  :thumleft:
« Last Edit: January 18, 2019, 09:01:08 am by Black_Hawk »
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Offline Mikie

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2019, 11:10:51 am »
Those corrupt border posts and police officials really put a damper on trips like these
I am following, this, Lake Malawi is on my bucket list
:paw:

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Offline >Herman<

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #5 on: January 18, 2019, 11:22:49 am »
Sub  :thumleft:

Offline BikerJan

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #6 on: January 18, 2019, 11:26:42 am »
bucket list trip
 

Offline zacapa

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Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #7 on: January 18, 2019, 06:03:17 pm »
Awesome guys! keep it rolling. Hats off for organising this ride and making it happen.
 

Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #8 on: January 18, 2019, 06:28:20 pm »
Definitely sub'd for this one. I was also in Malawi over New Year for a couple of weeks and took the same route as you, except I landed up at Chembe Eagle's Nest after being in Liwonde for a few days. Loved the country but didn't have any issues at the border as I used a dobadoba (where you paid with time I paid in kwacha).

Pleased to hear that you had a good time. Such an awesome country. Thanks for following :thumleft:
"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #9 on: January 18, 2019, 06:30:17 pm »
Awesome guys! keep it rolling. Hats off for organising this ride and making it happen.

Good to hear from you again. Hope you're keeping well. Enjoy the RR.
"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #10 on: January 18, 2019, 07:26:42 pm »

DAY 1 :  SUNDAY 16TH DECEMBER 2018

FAT MONKEY LODGE to NGALA LODGE
DISTANCE:  318 km
TIME:  11.00 am  -  6.00pm  (5hrs)



“ This is what I live for baby,
You’re my open road
You can take me anywhere the wind blows
Right into the great unknown...”              American Authors





]

We thought we had woken up early enough to get an early start but we fussed around for so long off loading bikes, sorting out the luggage –what was needed on the bikes and what had to stay in the vehicle, getting dressed, munching breakfast and enjoying a short moment on the beach checking out the local scene. A very common sight along the shores of the lake is laundry time and with that comes swimming and fun time for the kids. It was good to see the little silver fish drying on the racks as the lakes supply has become so depleted and this is their main food supply. With very little effort the paddles slice into the calm waters as the men in their canoes move up and down the shores. They took no notice of us as we move around in fascination and awe. This resort was very quiet for this time of the year and it appeared that we were the only guests visiting.






An unhurried off loading of bikes


Roxy trying to make sense of the organised chaos.








'Paddles cutting water...'


Usipa fish, a small sardine-like fish, drying on the racks. These are sold at most markets in Malawi and play a significant role in the economic livelihood for many families




Laundry time. Not sure if it's a good time to go swimming  ???


Someones on a mission to find a friend


High five little buddy





My riding buddies   :love10:

It was already 11.00am when we said our farewells to Geoff and the amazingly friendly staff and excitedly departed Fat Monkeys.














Another selfie    ::) 




"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 
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Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #11 on: January 18, 2019, 08:16:59 pm »

We were now officially on our way. I still couldn’t quite absorb the fact that we were actually pulling this ride off.  A few kilometres later we were relaxed on our bikes and used to the heavy load on the back. Roxy, who was in front of me, looked very comfy on her bike that she had never ridden before and we were weaving our way up and down, round and about the lovely narrow stretch of tar road that heads out from scenic Cape Maclear....off to chase our dream. 

Turning right into a narrow little dirt road proved to be very interesting. We passed through lovely tidy, clean little villages lined with friendly, smiling and waving little Malawian kiddies that greeted us enthusiastically all along the way. This was a very pretty area with baobabs, topped in bright green foliage, popping up all around us, adding to the magical spirit of our surroundings.






Always connecting with the kids

 However, as we progressed so the road regressed. I did mention earlier that the rains had arrived sooner than expected and as a result the road became messier, muddier and more slippery, requiring all our attention. I wasn’t ready for this type of riding so early on our first day of. I was hoping to get into the more challenging bits slowly over a couple of days but then again we did plan our route to follow the shoreline as closely as possible and avoid the busier roads.

 But wham...here we were slip sliding around the road within the first hour of our ride. Despite all this it was a very pretty route which also led us to a wide river crossing that was just short of a bridge. One of the local gentleman encouraged us by saying that “it was passable/possible”. Roxy shot off confidently in pursuit of Kingsley and I followed after reassured that it was do-able. The kids were fascinated by the stupid ‘Mzungus’ and excitedly followed us across the shallow flowing river with much laughter and loud encouragement.






Karen crossing cautiously   :P






I soon started to get the hang of this wet riding and started to enjoy it.  We continued on our way confident that the worst was over. But we soon came to another obstacle. The road was being repaired and had been dug away making space for huge pipelines.




We watched in awe as the locals on their 125 cc pikki–pikkies took a detour across the watery ditch, round the other side over a little drift with no fuss or bother,  hopped back on and rode off again without further adieu.








By now a curious crowd had gathered to watch how we fared. With lots of laughter, chatting and cheering they watched Kingsley take our bikes across. Our Honda's were rather heavy and trying to maneuver them in the mud was a bit trickier than a pikki-pikki but fortunately there’s always one willing local who will assist us. After a bit of huffing, puffing and waving goodbye we set off once again.















This was starting to feel like an adventure already. I thought we had planned an uncomplicated route for our first days ride so this was a total surprise. It took us about 2 hours to complete this 25 km stretch of road. The other little short cut road that I was expecting wasn’t as bad but Roxy managed to have her first fall on the final muddy section – the counting had begun.





It was a relief to get back onto the tar road and try make up some time, however, we now had trucks to contend with and with the roads being so narrow with no shoulder area we battled to overtake at times as they would encroach on the whole road so now we really had to be cautious and the going was slow and as you soon frustratingly discover on a motorbike, ‘might is right’!


Having a rest and a much needed cup of coffee


Happy little faces cheering us along

The sun was soon slipping behind the mountains to the east of us. Despite the beauty the sunset created, silhouetting the fisherman and there baskets down on the river as we crossed over a bridge, it also forced us to ride in the dark which we promised ourselves we wouldn’t do. The many small villages started to get busier and more active as locals peddled and walked into the markets from both directions to buy their meal from the many vendors on the side of the road and socialize with an old buddy. Piled up high were baskets of ripe mangoes, bright tomatoes, cassava roots, bags of coal, little piles of dried silver fish and more unidentifiable foodstuffs. It became more cramped on the dark roads that split the markets as they moved unconsciously into our space and with thumb on hooter, eyes focused into the dusk we carefully worked our way, following each other’s rear lights, through the darkening bustling villages. Shortly after complete darkness finally descended we turned right and followed a sandy track to the entrance of Ngala Lodge.
 
A friendly Patricia came out to meet and welcome us in. Fortunately she still had her staff on duty and we headed straight for the pub and ordered a survival drink and a quick meal. It was too dark to start pitching tents so we opted for the backpackers dorm. We were the only people here and spread ourselves out taking full advantage of all the space to hang up our wet, dirty clothing. We were so exhausted and wasted no time climbing into bed.



"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 
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Offline Splash

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #12 on: January 18, 2019, 10:26:14 pm »
Wow - just amazing. Thanks for sharing. A dream trip. Makes me want to get on my bike and go on an adventure.
Have bike, will ride.
 
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Offline adrekruger

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #13 on: January 19, 2019, 09:44:21 am »
 O0
 

Offline BabyBeemer

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #14 on: January 19, 2019, 12:38:38 pm »
Lekker to see you still going strong.  Looks like a lekker trip - and more special with your daughter along.
 
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Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #15 on: January 20, 2019, 02:48:16 pm »

DAY 2 :  MONDAY 17 DECEMBER 2018
NGALA LODGE to MAKUZI BEACH LODGE
DISTANCE :  70 km
TIME :  9.00am  -  1.00pm


“Is a dream a lie
If it don’t come true
Or is it something worse?”          Bruce Springsteen





One heck of a storm crashed over our roof during the night, lightening thrashed around and the thunder rolled into the distance waking us up several times as the rain pelted down..... what a relief to be warm and dry.

 Waking up to an unexpected sunny day was surely a sign of good things to come. With coffee and muesli in hand we walked the short path down to the beach to relax before packing up. It was great to be out in the sunshine and sitting on the shore of the calm lake scanning the horizon for signs of the distant and faded Mozambique Mountains giving us an idea where we were planning on heading to.















While we were packing up a chap called Grant Atkins came over to chat with us... strangely enough he was actually from our home town and was very interested in our trip as he was returning from a 6 month trip through east Africa with his wife and two young boys whom they had taken out of school for the occasion. I thought this was great as  valuable lessons are learnt through the informal teachings while travelling around from country to country, as kids can learn best through their own life experiences,  rather than in a boring old classroom. But, that’s a matter of opinion.

We finally got away and were now fully prepared to head off towards Livingstonia, another 294 km away. An early start would ensure a nice early arrival.




We had ridden a good 20 km when Kingsley’s bike just cut out. This was now the first of many frustrating stops as we were soon to discover. On checking out the problem he discovered that there was a hassle with the fuel supply getting to the carburetor which he eventually managed to clear. Chuffed that we had such an ‘ace’ bike mechanic we confidently continued our trip.





Just as we were relaxing and settling in for the long ride up north Kingsley’s Honda spluttered to a halt again with the same problem.



Fifteen minutes of fiddling resulted in another false start as about 10 km further we stopped again.






'The London Shop' - another missed shopping opportunity.





This happened about five times and by now we were all silently cursing this unreliable chunk of  Honda and putting on brave smiley faces displaying endless patience. Not so sure about this ‘ace’ mechanic anymore.




So once again we were on our way and enjoying the cool wind whistling through our stuffy helmets whilst admiring the great scenery on either side. Good grief....he was pulling over again!!

It was really a matter of smiling through gritted teeth as he explained that he now had a rear wheel puncture. Could this get any worse? This took at least another hour in which time the neighboring kids, teenagers and adults had discovered us and curiously came to observe the changing of tubes. One guy who was so inebriated insisted on attempting to help but was more of a hinderence. Roxy and I were making buddies with some of the ones who good speak a smattering of English and even exchanged phone numbers – perhaps a few digits were swopped around.





When all was sorted, tools packed away, helmets on and waving goodbye we rode with bated breath hoping to cover a fair amount of mileage before stopping again. But this was not to be as the bike cut out again about ten minutes later. I took this opportunity to ride back a few kilometers to take some scenic photos of the lake.




The rain in the distance didn't go unnoticed.

Out of frustration Kingsley eventually removed the filter and this proved to be a very wise decision as it actually solved the problem. But all these delays now altered our decision  to not continue all the way up to Mushroom Farm near Livingstonia but to rather head to Makuzi Lodge, a short distance away and rather relax for the afternoon than stress about the bikes and ride another 4.5 hours.






"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #16 on: January 20, 2019, 03:32:10 pm »

It was almost midday by the time we made a brief stop at Kande Beach Resort. We just wanted to show Roxy this spot, get something to drink and decide if we wanted to overnight here or move on further north.  It was also very quiet but nicely maintained. Obviously still a popular stopover for the overlanders.












The locals certainly know how to carve.



It wasn’t much further to Makuzi Lodge and arriving at this familiar spot was very special for me and seeing that the gardens and buildings had been beautifully maintained after all these years was welcoming and a relief. We promptly stocked up with booze and found our old familiar camping spot....right on the beach.






Check the glint in the eyes.





We wasted no time in setting up camp, made it comfy and feeling all hot and sweaty strolled down to the lake for a much needed swim. Now this was a treat. We relaxed on the beach, soaking up cold G & T’s along with the summer sun.








Happiness is....




After showering it was sundowners on the deck.







Here we met Nick, the manager, who was extremely surprised to hear of our plans.

He had worked for the fishing industry on an island in Lake Malawi somewhere off the Tanzanian coast for over 20 years and he was not familiar with any roads on the other side of the Livingston Mountains that would take us to where we were heading. He strongly advised us against going through Tanzania as it was also the rainy season, which we were fully aware of. He suggested we head for Likoma Island on board the MV Ilala Ferry which departs from Nkata Bay in the evening. From there he suggested we take a small local boat across the short stretch of lake to Cobue in Mozambique and then continue on our journey.

Now this was something to stew over as it would change a few days of planned riding. Admittedly, this was a section of the trip that did have us concerned during the planning stage and now with bike problems and two girls along as well as the rain perhaps we were aspiring to too much.

We mulled it over back at the camp whilst preparing dinner and after us all putting in our pennies worth, made a reluctant decision to opt for the Ilala Ferry idea.
It was good to slip into our sleeping bags and finally get some rest.


   
                                                                CHEERS.....to our reluctant decision   ???



"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle
 

Offline Xpat

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #17 on: January 20, 2019, 04:47:08 pm »
Alright, alright - I'm in  :thumleft: :thumleft: :thumleft:

Offline Goingnowherekwickly

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #18 on: January 20, 2019, 08:58:29 pm »
Marvelous :)
looking forward to more, well done!!
 

Offline wildside

Re: SQUARING THE CIRCLE ~ Lake of Stars
« Reply #19 on: January 22, 2019, 10:11:18 pm »
Marvelous :)
looking forward to more, well done!!

Thanks Jules. Working on it...hopefully post more tomorrow. 
"Heading out to where pavement turns to sand"
                                                         Neil Young

RIDE REPORTS:
*Namibian Meander 2009 * Botswana 09 *A(nother) Sani Sunday * Saturday Ride Fever * Welcome to the Wildcoast * Riding the Rift ~ East Africa 2011 * In and out of Snow Valley * Wildsides ride to the Bash 'n back *  Bali with my Baby~2013  * Unwrapping the Cape for Christmas~2015 * Back to Bots~Kubu Island @ High Tide 2016 * A Piece of Pondoland~2018 *Squaring the Circle