Milddog's DRZ pimp thread

[MildDog]

May of 2010, a 2005 DRZ 400 E with 21000km on the clock.

3x3 Mod, bars and raisers, hand guards, stock pipe without any insides.

Here's my new bike:

[MildDog]

All the 2003 and later models had no issues with the ACCT

good to know. i am servicing my bike with n[]va today, will do jetting and dyno this week, then i'll stop whining and worrying so much

is wes's bike running yet?

[MildDog]

sometimes, if i'm quite low down in the rev range and i suddenly whack open the throttle the bike makes a dull thud 'duh' kinda noise and it sounds like it misfires, so the bike jerks and slows down- its a similar to feeling to accelerating fast and hitting neutral instead of second. is that jerking because its running lean and is misfiring? i'm getting it jetted/dyno'd tomorrow. its happened 5 or 6 times now. it only happens with a sudden change from cruising to throttle wide open.

[sidetrack]

sometimes, if i'm quite low down in the rev range and i suddenly whack open the throttle the bike makes a dull thud 'duh' kinda noise and it sounds like it misfires, so the bike jerks and slows down- its a similar to feeling to accelerating fast and hitting neutral instead of second. is that jerking because its running lean and is misfiring? i'm getting it jetted/dyno'd tomorrow. its happened 5 or 6 times now. it only happens with a sudden change from cruising to throttle wide open.

Could be the jetting there is a big difference between the coast and GP, does it pop or backfire when you gear down with the throttle closed ?

[MildDog]

Could be the jetting there is a big difference between the coast and GP, does it pop or backfire when you gear down with the throttle closed ?

yes. loud whipping/cracking noise when i close the throttle, happens more often with a cold engine. that sounds kinda cool though so jetting/dyno will fix that?

[sidetrack]

Could be the jetting there is a big difference between the coast and GP, does it pop or backfire when you gear down with the throttle closed ?

yes. loud whipping/cracking noise when i close the throttle, happens more often with a cold engine. that sounds kinda cool though so jetting/dyno will fix that?

Yes you are running lean, at altitude you need more air and less fuel. Other way around at the coast, too lean can be bad for a motor. Get the ketting done 

[MildDog]

Yes you are running lean, at altitude you need more air and less fuel. Other way around at the coast, too lean can be bad for a motor. Get the ketting done 

Thought so. Jetting will be done tomorrow thanks! I've run it for about a week now, and generally not too hard, so hoping there won't be any lasting effect.

[Bus]

sometimes, if i'm quite low down in the rev range and i suddenly whack open the throttle the bike makes a dull thud 'duh' kinda noise and it sounds like it misfires, so the bike jerks and slows down- its a similar to feeling to accelerating fast and hitting neutral instead of second. is that jerking because its running lean and is misfiring? i'm getting it jetted/dyno'd tomorrow. its happened 5 or 6 times now. it only happens with a sudden change from cruising to throttle wide open.

Thats called a "bog"

Your jetting needs to be richened and your accelerator pump might need a slight adjustment.

Keep us updated...

[MildDog]

Thats called a "bog"

Your jetting needs to be richened and your accelerator pump might need a slight adjustment.

Keep us updated...

RE: the bog. Julian said its a flat-slide carb issue, if i remember right he said he'll replace the accelerator pump with a better one to fix that problem. But the jetting and valve clearance setting turns out to be quite an expensive project! Jetting will be done once finances allow

What size back tires do you guys fix on the zook? on the web the specs say REAR: 110/100-18 but thats a rather small tire...? I've got a 120/80 on the back now, it looks rather silly, also sizing up will increase my top speed, yeah?

[MildDog]

I usually run the Maxxis M6006

I have tried the 130 and 140 width. I couldnt find a 140 so I fit a 130 instead.

I wouldnt go smaller than 130 again... it looks crap and doesnt last

130 refers to width: does the other measurement matter, the aspect ratio? because mine is a 120 / 80, i want to go 130 or 140 wide, but also want to get a tire with x / 100, but cant find bigger than 130 / 90 or 140 / 90 neither are offered in x / 100.

[MildDog]

radiator maintenance: so in the spirit of learning more about my bike and trying to take good care of it, i stripped off the radiators today. I have them drained and will fill them will an equal mix of distilled water and anti freeze. I have run water through them, to try and rinse out some of the gunk. Should I do anything else to them while they are off? there are no leaks and very little damage to the fins on the radiator.

[sidetrack]

radiator maintenance: so in the spirit of learning more about my bike and trying to take good care of it, i stripped off the radiators today. I have them drained and will fill them will an equal mix of distilled water and anti freeze. I have run water through them, to try and rinse out some of the gunk. Should I do anything else to them while they are off? there are no leaks and very little damage to the fins on the radiator.

No don't fix something that is not broken 

[MildDog]

Techie question:

This weekend I drained, checked, flushed and then refilled my radiators. Very easy to do. I filled up the radiators and started the bike. It stalled and died, cold start, and made a very ugly metal on metal noise. I also checked the oil level just after that, and there was NO oil on the dip stick. I took it for a ride and then checked the oil, oil level was fine after that. SO: how does the fluid flow in the bike work? I know the oil doesn't move properly unless the bike has been ridden. So when I run the bike in the garage can I damage it if I run for too long? Does idling the bike damage it as the oil doesn't move around the engine (like in the morning, I'll start it with the choke on and run it for a few seconds)?

[sidetrack]

Techie question:

This weekend I drained, checked, flushed and then refilled my radiators. Very easy to do. I filled up the radiators and started the bike. It stalled and died, cold start, and made a very ugly metal on metal noise. I also checked the oil level just after that, and there was NO oil on the dip stick. I took it for a ride and then checked the oil, oil level was fine after that. SO: how does the fluid flow in the bike work? I know the oil doesn't move properly unless the bike has been ridden. So when I run the bike in the garage can I damage it if I run for too long? Does idling the bike damage it as the oil doesn't move around the engine (like in the morning, I'll start it with the choke on and run it for a few seconds)?

Dry sump setup if standing oil drains to engine and when you check the oil on dipstick in frame it will be low. That is why Suzuki recommends to let it idle or run for three minutes then wait three and then check it. Bit of a mission to check oil but it's critical on those bikes. The ugly metal sound is just from the starter motor as it disengaged. You won't hurt the bike as there will always be oil in the motor at startup (at least there should be even if level is low) I much prefer a sight glass like on the 525.

[MildDog]

So being ultimate cheap-ass (i.e. poor), i found a second hand DRZ clarke tank for sale. What is fair price for it? Given they retail for $200 new. I can get a brand new one from Clarke landed for $265. This guy is in Hong Kong and reckons shipping will be anywhere from $50-$70. He was asking $175 for it and had no offers over a month, the only response he had was one guy saying he was charging too much, and me. I am thinking of offering him $170 and then he covers shipping.

[MildDog]

and the guy selling the tank is called jim hendrix 

[lecap]

...a brand new one from Clarke landed for $265...
US$200 PLUS South African VAT 14% = US$228
plus US$65 shipment = US$ 293
plus R25 customs clearance fee
plus R clearing agent fee (you might be lucky and get away without it)

You will also have to pay VAT, clearance fee etc. for your importred second hand tank.
If your seller does not do the customs paperwork & invoicing correctly this will become a can tank of worms.
And then it's still a used tank

I'd rather save for another month.

[the_wes]

...a brand new one from Clarke landed for $265...
US$200 PLUS South African VAT 14% = US$228
plus US$65 shipment = US$ 293
plus R25 customs clearance fee
plus R clearing agent fee (you might be lucky and get away without it)

You will also have to pay VAT, clearance fee etc. for your importred second hand tank.
If your seller does not do the customs paperwork & invoicing correctly this will become a can tank of worms.
And then it's still a used tank

I'd rather save for another month.

I never paid a clearance fee nor used a clearing agent... just VAT.... I would go for the new tank rather, peace of mind

[Etienne2T]

Paid $190 for my tank and $40 shipping, and R300 when they brought it to my house, thats all

[MildDog]

Paid $190 for my tank and $40 shipping, and R300 when they brought it to my house, thats all

How did you get them to bring it to your house? that sounds like the deal