Mozambique, friends and R&R

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Leo

Grey Hound
WD Supporter
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
5,159
Reaction score
345
Location
Brakpan, South Africa
Bike
BMW R1200GS HP2
Two thousand and twelve was going to be the year we were going to do yet another BIG trip up into Africa somewhere, so leave was accumulated and our bosses were warned that we were going to be away for a week or two. At our first trip planning get together we unanimously decided that we were going to do the Doodsakker in Angola as well as the Van Zyl pass in Kaokoveld and so the planning started in all earnesty. Well to cut a long story short, all the drama, challenges and multiple trips to Angola for the Ebo 4 depleted my available leave to nothing short of shocking and to place the final nail into my trip coffin was when the burial for the Ebo 4 was planned on Sunday 8 July – slap bang in the middle of the two weeks we were supposed to do our trip.
When I pulled out, the rest of the grouped decided “Nooit”, and they all pulling out as well, so Excalibur in the end came up with the idea to go to Mozambique, chill for a week and see how many bottles of rum we could consume. That way we were still doing a bike trip, but I could still attend to my personal matters as well.

Meeting at Diamond Hill Plaza on a cold Saturday morning:
001.jpg


Saturday 30 June , while the rest of Gauteng was seemingly heading for the Innie Bos Fees, we were heading the same direction but not the same destination. To say it was freezing when we met at the Diamond Hill plaza was a bit of an understatement, but we got going and as we travelled further east, the ice bears got less and soon we were getting rid of thermal wear to be more comfortable on the bike.

Basil getting rid of some thermal gear
002-1.jpg


The Komatipoort border post lived up to its reputation of being one of the most unorganized and hottest places around and this trip was no exception. We got ourselves a runner and within 30 minutes we had cleared all bureaucracy and headed for Bilene.

Shenanigans at the border post

003-1.jpg


Our regular spot for our first 2M was being renovated, so we pushed on and took the gravel road past Moamba. I don’t think I’ve ever come across so many vehicles on this stretch of road, but it certainly seemed that most Suff Africans were using this road as opposed to the one through Maputo.  Bakkies with boats, quads and all other forms of recreational vehicles was being towed at speed and we had to be very cautious not to get caught off guard. Two beer stops later and we pulled into Bilene by late afternoon and immediately began settling in.

Our first pit stop, somewhere past Moamba

004.jpg

Another pit stop – dirty faces from all the dust

005-1.jpg


Excalibur was so relaxed; he could lie down while taking a dump

007.jpg


Our long time batman, Las Vegas was no longer around, but Johnny (Walker Blue) was still around so we commissioned him to take care of all our needs. Soon we had some gelo (ice) rum, raspberry, charcoal and pows (bread rolls) and the serious kuiering started.

Bargaining over the price for 10 kg prawns.

008.jpg



These days the markets in Bilene has lost of fresh produce to offer

009.jpg



Sunday was a rest day and we obliged by strolling the streets of Bilene, looking at all the interesting sights and sounds of this little town and Africa where every day is like the next and the only way of knowing that it’s a weekend, is because the bank is closed. For the rest of the town every day is like the previous.
Our camping site

010.jpg


Chef Leon preparing bacon and scramble eggs for breakfast

011.jpg


Some visiting eye candy

012.jpg


Bilene is well and truly a little piece of paradise

013.jpg


Wish I could fit one of these carved Coke bottles on the bike

014.jpg




We managed to get ourselves 10 kg of prawns which Johnny was duly instructed to clean while we tested more samples of the R&R. Live was good and we all relaxed with the office and all its trouble way in the back of our minds. We agreed that we could not kuier like this all the time and decided that on Monday we were going to tackle the beach road to Xai Xai to burn a few calories.  Fun was had by all and we kuiered till late into the night whilst trying to devoir the last of the prawns.
Take your pick – a serious babelaas is guaranteed

015.jpg


Chef Leon preparing prawns. This is roughly 1 Kg of prawns, we finished 4 – 5 of these between seven of us per meal, hell it was tough
016.jpg


Monday morning we raised, all eager to ride but slightly unsure as to what the day would have installed for us. After a quick re-fuel, checking tyre pressures, etc we tackled the sandy section  which would eventually take us to Xai Xai.

The road to Xai Xai – not for the faint hearted

018.jpg


Well the going was tough and we had to take several pit stops, partially for the smokers to catch their breath or to lift on overweight pig which had followed its own mind.

0192.jpg

Having fun while waiting for the others…..

019.jpg


Passing through a remote village

020.jpg



By midday we walked into the Zongoene lodge, sweat dripping from every possible orifice but enjoying every moment none the lease. From here the going was easy, but a few us decided to pay a “quick “ visit to the lighthouse on the top of the hill. This turned into a bit of a challenge as we took the shortest route to the lighthouse which was also the sandiest and the steepest.

Zongoene lodge seemed to be right on the Limpopo river, but nature has taught them to move a little more inland

021.jpg


Trying to get to the lighthouse. Basil lost control and ended about 20 m from his bike

022.jpg


Antonie also “talking” to the heavy pig

023.jpg


The view from the Lighthouse – truly amazing

024.jpg


……….and the Lighthouse

0252.jpg


This is the actual light, not very big one would agree. Powered by a few batteries and solar charged by daytime

0253.jpg

Antonie sweating profusely when he arrived at the top

025.jpg


The entire place is immaculately maintained by a guy for a salary of a mere 5000 meticals per month

026.jpg


Form here we headed for Xai Xai and our lunch appointment had turned into a late afternoon meal. With the sun already heading for the horizon, we had no choice but to opt for the black stuff back to Bilene.

Lunch in Xai Xai, actually a lupper – late afternoon supper

0282.jpg


Apart from Basil’s speeding fine the trip was uneventful but back at the campsite Johnny did not organize any seafood so we decided to support the local restaurant and wine and dine on chicken, fish or whatever else tickled our fancy. Of course I waiter couldn’t understand how/why we were getting pissed from drinking the one coke after the other, but meanwhile our gifkanne was working overtime underneath the table.

Having a restaurant meal

028.jpg


Werner enjoying his giblets

029.jpg



The next day we rose to a whole new world, covered in the thickest mist I had seen since visiting Bilene. Basil’s HP had sprung a diff oil leak so I managed to convince Shaun, Antonie and Jean to join me for a counter clock ride to turtle beach. Because of the mist the conditions were actually perfect for riding and although we worked up a sweat, we never actually hit the red zone.

This sand is not for the faint hearted

030.jpg


Stunning scenery

031.jpg


And more

032.jpg


033.jpg


0342.jpg


Till we got stopped at this boom

0343.jpg


With a bit of sadness we recalled that we were supposed to sleep at the entrance to the Doodsakker on this night, had or Angola trip materialized

034.jpg



By lunchtime we were back and set about more R&R while inspecting the diff on the HP. When I pulled out the driver that feeds the speedo, some serious metal pieces clung to the magnet and we all realised this was serious. We cleaned it nicely, drained the oil and refilled with new oil and decided to ride it the next day and inspect afterwards to see how much damaged was done.
From Complexa Palmeiras there is an excellent view of a magnificent lodge on the opposite side of the lake and that night we decided that we were going to visit that place and have a cold one there. Excalibur and Werner wanted to do some chores and volunteered to stay while the rest of us tackled the loose stuff. We rode clockwise around the lake and by midday we were sitting on the deck of the lodge, having a beer whilst staring at Complexa Palmeiras from the opposite side of the lake. The route to get there was challenging to say the least, but helluva fun.

Fun in the sand

035.jpg


This is the lodge one can see from Bilene – up close

037.jpg


Having a cold one at the lodge

038.jpg


…with good and friendly service - Bilene across the water

040.jpg


The Katoom biting back from all the abuse

039.jpg


Antonie, who wants to buy a 800 and Jean swopped bikes

041.jpg


042.jpg


Antonie and Jean had swopped bikes as Antonie was contemplating getting himself a lewensgevaarlik and Jean was doing a splendid job with that fat pig in the sand. Yes he took a few tumbles, but overall a very impressive ride.

A classic example of going where you look – Jean was fascinated by the hole and ended up right in it

043.jpg


We had to return the same route and took a few extra stops just to sample more of Mozambique’s finest, eventually arriving back in camp by mid-afternoon. One of our stops was at Bar Babelaria, a place with a very nice atmosphere that we immediately liked and immediately convinced Excalibur and Werner that we HAD to go back there the next day and do a serious kuier.

Life doesn’t get much better than this

044.jpg


The view from Laguna Bay campsite, this place is really worth a visit

045.jpg



Well that night we had a serious practice for the next day and I must say by the time I hit the bed, I knew I could rest assured – the okes were ready for whatever kuering we had in spell for the next day. Do yourself a favour, next time you’re in the area, take a ride to this pub – this is one serious place. When I close my eyes and can just imagine what it must look like in peak holiday season  - floozies paddadooing around in their bikini’s, mist spray cooling the place down and serious cold beer with lots of laughter till the wee hours of the morning.

Checking the diff on the HP

047.jpg


This place is a MUST VISIT

049.jpg


A few sand scenes

050.jpg


051.jpg


052.jpg


…..and a few posing scenes

0532.jpg


053.jpg


Chef Excalibur making us some rice

055.jpg


These two ugly fuckers celebrated being mates for 30 years by getting virginal unstable

056.jpg


Chef Leo doing what he does best and teaching the okes to eet viskoppe

057.jpg


058.jpg


Sorting a leaking mattress
059.jpg


Lord have mercy – not more prawns fortunately

060.jpg


While working on the diff, this man delivered running commentary from his position

061.jpg


Making the bees drunk on R&R server in a spoon

062.jpg


Groupie

067.jpg


Anyone for a Manica – best beer around

073.jpg


Buffalo hotel, should we or should we not kiss that Buffalo

075.jpg


Excalibur showing how it should be done

0762.jpg


Braaiing some meat for a change

079.jpg


Our trip was drawing to a close and by midday Friday we packed our stuff and headed for Komatipoort. We wanted to sleep somewhere on the SA side, but we had not decided where. In Hectorspruit we stopped at the Buffalo hotel for a quick one, which eventually turned into a quick few, but the fun really started when the proprietor of this fine establishment challenged us to kiss the Buffalo. The Buffalo was shot in 1942 and for years held the record for the widest horns, and through the years the tradition had started where visitors were challenged to kiss the Buffalo. It was placed on a precarious section of the bar and one had to stand with your hands behind you rback while leaning forward and kissing the Buffalo full on the mouth. For your efforts, those being successful were rewarded with a certificate of competence. Well needless to say, by this stage we were well and truly oiled and every single one of us managed to kiss this beast. 
Antonie, who knows a person in every town in SA, had in the meantime called his nephew and arranged for us to sleep on his farm. A quick stop at a butchery to buy some serious meat and a refill for our gifkanne saw us pulling into the farmstead as the sun was laying himself to rest. That night we ate 750 plus kg rump steaks as we were not going to eat any seafood for a while. Well the rest of the trip was uneventful, very cold none the less, but after walking around in slops and baggies for a week it was a rude awakening to ride back into the freezing temperatures.
Thanks to all the maatjies who joined. We relaxed, laughed and talked alotta kark and probably drank way too much but it was a pleasant break from the hustle and bustle of Gauteng, which we all needed. 
 
Klomp maters

071.jpg
 
Top