Author Topic: DRZ400E Engine rebuild due to seized camshaft (Read 7970 times)

Torque Curve · « **Reply #60 on:** September 11, 2012, 05:07:33 pm »

Update: new bearings pressed into casings. Only two bearings must be bought from agents, the rest are all std items from Bearing Man. The whole lot cost = to buying just the crank side bearings from the agents!

On order via e-bay: +4mm Hot Rods stroker crank, 94mm Cylinder Works barrel, Athena gasket set, Suzuki oil seal set, Kibblewhite valve stem seals, 94mm Vertex forged piston.

bore² x stroke x 0.7857 = 94² x 66.6 x 0.7857 = 462.3 cc

Heddles · « **Reply #61 on:** September 11, 2012, 06:39:23 pm »

Yip.. Also had to do that exercise when I did my one. Only bearings I had a slight idea 'might" have been a little rough.

dirtyXT · « **Reply #62 on:** September 14, 2012, 08:31:02 am »

hey sad to see this, but I think aside from the cost/aggravation factors your a pig in shit with this and actually enjoying yourself. thanks for sharing all the details.

Torque Curve · « **Reply #63 on:** September 14, 2012, 11:45:47 am »

Quote from: dirtyXT on September 14, 2012, 08:31:02 am

hey sad to see this, but I think aside from the cost/aggravation factors your a pig in shit with this and actually enjoying yourself. thanks for sharing all the details.

Hey, yes I'm enjoying the rebuild. Can't wait tom run-in the new motor. I think she's gonna be a wheelie-crazy tyre-eater.

Tiger8 · « **Reply #64 on:** September 14, 2012, 02:12:01 pm »

Nice one TC, joked earlier, but you doing a great job on this Zzzz

She is going to mooove after this.
If you need more goodies from Bearing Man, give me a shout first, my bil always sorts me out,

Torque Curve · « **Reply #65 on:** September 17, 2012, 06:32:13 pm »

While some EC Dogs went on a ride with Jupiter on one of the more beautiful days we've had recently, I busied myself with polishing valves, lapping valve seats and cleaning and checking the suspension linkages. The rebuild is going slow at present as I'm waiting for parts from USA to arrive. Valve seating checked tonight with petrol showed 0 leaks! Lapping successful!

I took some time to clean the rear rim and hub while the wheel is out of the frame.

eikeboom · « **Reply #66 on:** September 17, 2012, 08:26:39 pm »

Nice work there!
What did you use to clean the wheel? It almost looks bead blasted...

dirtyXT · « **Reply #67 on:** September 17, 2012, 08:29:46 pm »

You gotta share your tricks for cleaning. What products and methods do you use? I used spirits the other day on my sprocket and got amazing results but that's too rough for regular use. Your garage is too clean too.

Torque Curve · « **Reply #68 on:** September 17, 2012, 09:11:24 pm »

I cleaned the rim hub with a fine wire brush on a drill.

Bike cleaning is a mission at best and there is always a lot of waste products like dirty parafin or solvents that require safe disposal. I wash grease and grime off sprockets and chains with parafin or diesel. Best to wear gloves to prevent excessive drying of skin. For everything else I use cleen green. Used parafin gets recycled as fire-starter fuel over balls of newspaper.

In the UK I washed my bike once a season. Before the winter I sprayed Q20 or WD40 over everything except the tank, seat and handles. If the road salt deposit got to thick I soaked that in spray too. Come cleaning time soak the bike with soap and pressure wash everything right off.

Winn's magwheel cleaner works on rims and alu parts but should NOT be used on anodised or painted surfaces like the rims on the 660 Tenere.

dirtyXT · « **Reply #69 on:** September 17, 2012, 09:15:11 pm »

Thanks for that tip. No mag wheel cleaner.

Torque Curve · « **Reply #70 on:** September 19, 2012, 11:08:44 am »

Quote from: dirtyXT on September 17, 2012, 09:15:11 pm

Thanks for that tip. No mag wheel cleaner.

Oh, and also avoid using spirits, thinners or petrol to clean O-ring or X-ring chains. Prolonged or regular exposure can dissolve grease from behind the O-rings. Rather use parafin to clean and then spray lube as required for road or off-road use.

dirtyXT · « **Reply #71 on:** September 19, 2012, 11:17:40 am »

yeah thanks Ive figured that one out already. annual clean only. hurry up mate with your next episode on your rebuild.

Torque Curve · « **Reply #72 on:** September 19, 2012, 03:54:59 pm »

Hell, man I'm burning up too. Waiting for delivery of parts ordered off e-bay.

Torque Curve · « **Reply #73 on:** October 01, 2012, 07:11:37 pm »

Crank, barrel, gaskets and seals arrived. Fitted the crank, put the gears back in, pulled cases closer with bolts and then...
the cases didn't touch!

So I patiently took everything apart again - NOT! Pressed out the main bearings and measured them. Turns out the OEM main bearings are 1mm narrower than the ones I bought at Bearing Man. I took the originals and asked the sales guy to supply replacements, but never checked the width. So there goes my bearing saving because the OEM bearings are >R800 for the set.

Eventhough I lapped the valves and was happy that they sealed 100% I kept thinking that I'll have a brand-new motor soon with used valves and guides, so I ordered Wiseco valves and Kibblewhite guides. At the end of the project the only used parts will be the crankcases, gearbox internals, head, cams and valvesprings! Total cost so far is R13000. If Kenzogs didn't give me that fantastic head assembly it would be standing >R18000 already.

The difference between the OEM and HR cranks is only a 2mm off-set on the crank-pin which can be seen in the pic. This translates to a 4mm longer stroke and 28cc increase on top of the 36cc added by the 94mm bore.

dirtyXT · « **Reply #74 on:** October 01, 2012, 08:27:46 pm »

My worst. Look apart my dt50 gear box once. Never again. Sorry to hear you bearing problems. You're going to be pleased as punch in the end. Think of it as a love hate affair.

Heddles · « **Reply #75 on:** October 20, 2012, 10:01:37 am »

If any of you come across a chassis for one of these bikes, around 2001, I am in need of one.. With papers please.... Just the main part of the chassis that the engine is installed into....

Heddles · « **Reply #76 on:** October 24, 2012, 05:09:18 pm »

Oh dear.. By the looks of the luck I am having, This scoot might be going to the breakers..

n0b0dy · « **Reply #77 on:** October 25, 2012, 04:45:38 am »

Remember the days of my XR500. Not fun at all. Nice read. Sorry to hear about motor. Happy to know the tunnel has a light at the end.

zetman · « **Reply #78 on:** November 20, 2012, 11:08:42 am »

LOOP SY AL

lecap · « **Reply #79 on:** November 21, 2012, 10:03:27 am »

Quote from: Torque Curve on October 01, 2012, 07:11:37 pm

...Fitted the crank, put the gears back in, pulled cases closer with bolts and then...
the cases didn't touch! So I patiently took everything apart again - NOT! Pressed out the main bearings and measured them. Turns out the OEM main bearings are 1mm narrower than the ones I bought at Bearing Man. I took the originals and asked the sales guy to supply replacements, but never checked the width. So there goes my bearing saving because the OEM bearings are >R800 for the set...

Sorry when you mentioned all but two bearings from Bearing Man I assumed you referred to the two main bearings. Else I would have warned you.

Although the OEM main bearings carry a standard bearing type number they also carry an affix to the number which is a slightly unusual sign for a bearing with non standard dimensions.

More commonly you find either a generic type marking distinct from the three to five number code system or a "/xx" affix as in 32005/26 (32005 tapered roller bearing with non standard 26mm / 1mm OS inner bore.

S4!+ happens