A 'not completed' Mozambique RR

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Biza

Race Dog
Joined
Jul 3, 2009
Messages
2,294
Reaction score
1
Location
Gauteng
Bike
BMW R1200GS Adventure
The wife and I decided to do a bike trip that started on Friday 21st. She on her 800GS and I on the 1200GSA. We planned to ride from Heidelberg to Mozambique, from there to Swaziland, Hluhluwe, Kosibay through Natal Midlands to Memel, from there to Clarens and back to Heidelberg.

I haven't been to Moz in many years.
When we arrived at the border, there were like 102 vehicles in front of us, we took the oncoming lane and went to the front of the line. On arrival there, there were hundreds of people in line (long weekend). A 'runner' (big mistake) came to me and offered his speedy assistance to get our passports sorted etc. It was 36 degrees and I said yes . . . I forgot our bike's registration papers at home and our 'runner' said he will organize . . . . Long story short, we were through the border at a cost of 5250 Meticas (R1500) which was all our cash at the moment.

We planned to stay at a 'friend' who lives in Matola, I phoned him when we were at the border and we arranged to phone him again on arrival in Matola.
Now the problems started - on arrival at the first Toll Gate we were told that they do not accept cards, only cash. Our runner friend took all my cash, what now? I tried to phone my 'friend' and then realized our famous cellular network Vodacom didn't activate my roaming. The closest ATM was back at the border, I withdrew my limit that morning and I thought I can draw money from my credit card. My wife stayed behind and I went back to the border, tried 3 ATM's and they were all offline. What now?
At the border I had cellular signal again and contacted my 'friend', explained the situation and all he said was - 'sorry boeta' . . . .

I decided this is it, back to the tollgate to fetch the missus and back to SA . . . .  on my arrival the missus said that the security guard told her about a little dirt road (twee spoor) that we can take to bypass the tollgate and we will get onto the toll road 2 km ahead. We did just that. On arrival at our rendezvous in Matola . . . nobody. We decided to head on for Maputo . . . another Tollgate. We turned around and looked for an ATM, I bank with FNB for many years and cannot get any money withdrawn from FNB. Eventually we found a Barclays, I drew money from my credit card and we went to Maputo. By this time my temper was very short, we looked for a Hotel to spend the night and in this process we were stopped by two policemen with AK's on foot. Apparently we made an illegal U Turn somewhere, they took our licenses and we were told to accompany them to the Police Station. They walked in a small alley and insisted I must pay 11000 Meticas for our offence. . . . . I just snapped and wanted to bliks@m them, I took a picture of them with my cellphone and said I will delete it on return of our licenses. Told them exactly what I think of them and there mothers and their mothers mothers in Afrikaans, eventually they returned our licenses and we left. The missus was in a panic when all this happened.

We ended up in the Southern Sun hotel. The intention was to stay over in the area until the 24th and then leave for Swaziland.
Sunday morning we packed, I punched Siteki (Swaziland) into my GPS and off we went. Road took us to the Ferry crossing over to Catemba . . . . didn't realize this is wrong. At Catemba we took the dirt road and continued for a few kilometers when the problems started. Moz had a lot of rain, at first the road was good, thick sand through which I battled with Anakee 2 tyres on the bikes, then the muddy ride begun. It was a slip and slide, I take my hat (helmet) off for the missus, she just continued and did exceptionally well. At one stage the overloaded 1200 decided that is enough and I took a big tumble. The bike landed on my leg and at first it felt like it was fractured in 10 places. We are both over 50 and bones break easily. It was a mission getting the bike up again but we managed. This road was 70+% mud and we progressed very slowly. My leg hurt and it was a matter of 'vasbyt' and continue. This was the road from Maputo to Ponto do Ouro, at the first turn off we asked locals which road to take to the Swazi border and was pointed in another direction. This road was even worse, mud and mud and mud. On this road we ran into Gert (Wilddog) riding solo on his KTM . . . . . . guys, he did exceptionally well on a KTM. He came from Swaziland en route to Ponto do Ouro. After continuing (battling) for another few kilo's with a very painful leg, tired and struggling with a very heavy bike I got stuck in the mud. Can't get off the bike as it will just fall over in the mud and what then . . . . We battled for some time when locals arrived in a LDV and helped me out. Everything comes at a price, the driver suggested that we load the bikes onto his LDV as he was en route to Boane and can drop us off there. This was like a prayer being answered, sore leg, exhausted, hungry, battling for hours in mud, we loaded the bikes . . . .  we had to sit on the bikes on the back of the LDV. We traveled the 40 odd kilo's on the back of the LDV and arrived in Boane at around 20h30, paid the guy 2000 Meticas (R700) and decided to head back to Maputo . . . .  we did a 'very bad' circle route, how stupid can one be. At this stage it felt if my leg was amputated, I didn't want to take off my boot and thought it was best to just leave it on. We went back to the Southern Sun hotel, it was fully booked and they directed us to the Polana hotel. I limped into this 5 star hotel full of mud and am sure they didn't know what to expect from this scene . . . . we booked in at a price of 11 800 Meticas (R3 800) for one night. I couldn't sleep, it was too late for food, tired and full of pain I didn't enjoy anything of the R3 800 except a hot bath. Next morning we had breakfast and decided to ride back home to see a doctor, I have torn ligaments in the ankle and knee, must see another doctor today who will decide whether they will operate to fix the ligaments . . . . .  That was the end of our trip unfortunately. On hindsight, it was something to remember.

Pics to follow . . . . .   
 
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