Transkei, ndiyavuya ukukwazi (WD Bash 2012)

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LuckyStriker

Bachelor Dog
Joined
Jan 24, 2006
Messages
10,160
Reaction score
18
Location
Bellville
Bike
BMW G650 X-challenge
Bellville to Graaff-Reinet
679km, 10hours


I left home at 07:20. It was misty and cold as I descended the ramp onto the N1, north.
It was a weekday, so I had to jostle for position, competing with rumbling trucks and busy little hatchbacks. The hustle and bustle tapered off as I reached Paarl.
Today would be a solo ride for me and I made the most of it by stopping wherever and whenever I wanted. Repeat-singing choruses in my helmet as I went, over and over and over...

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S33.72814 E19.07290 – Du Toitskloof Pass
I don’t usually like to put frames and effect on my photos. The most I will alter my images is to boost the brightness and/or contrast, nothing you can’t do in a darkroom. But I thought I’d give this a try.

I stopped on Du Toitskloof Pass to say goodbye to the Cape. Below me lay the Boland, to the right was the Swartland, and in the distance the Metropole which marks the start of the West Coast – except everyone knows the Real West Coast doesn’t start until you reach Velddrif.

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S33.32049 E20.04047 – Toastrivier

After filling up with fuel in Worcester I headed up to Touwsrivier where I tucked into a toasted ham and cheese sandwich. My sustenance for the day.

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S33.24189 E20.47778 – Matjiesfontein cemetery

Access to the dirt track that leads down to the cemetery is sometimes prevented by a locked gate. It seems to be the local landowner’s prerogative whether it is unlocked or not.

There are two obelisks on the koppie. One was erected in memory of George Maxwell Grant, killed in a rail accident, and the other is a British Army memorial in honour of Major-General Andrew Wauchope, affectionately known as "Red Mick."
A hero of Scotland, General Wauchope was killed at the Battle of Magersfontein, near Kimberley, during the Anglo-Boer War. Wauchope’s grave in the cemetery below is marked by a simple sandstone memorial erected by his wife Jean.
Nearby are the graves of James D Logan, founder of Matjiesfontein, and his wife Emma. Their daughter, Catherine, son Daddy Jim, and several other family members lie nearby.
In the cemetery are many other historic graves, including that of English cricketer Edward Alfred Lohmann, considered to have been one of the world’s greatest all-rounders ever. – www.thegreatkaroo.com

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S33.23115 E20.58093 – Matjiesfontein

I planned my route weeks before. Along with Google Earth I used MapSource to plot an interesting route that would make frequent use of Transnet service roads. Matjiesfontein had one which would take me over bridges and riverbeds and I was really looking forward to riding it. Unfortunately access to the road was denied by a chained gate and a heavy padlock. On with the highway...

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S33.17563 E20.98525
The Geelbek River Blockhouse was built by the British in 1901 to guard the bridge over the Geelbek River. This blockhouse was declared a National Monument in 1965. There are three other blockhouses in the vicinity. They were built to guard the bridges over the Dwyka River at Ketting and Dwyka. The two blockhouses at Dwyka station are known as "the twin towers of the Dwyka" referred to by Denys Reitz in his book "Op kommando". The one at Ketting Station was immortalised by Rudyard Kipling in his poem "Bridge Guard in the Karoo". – www.heritage.org.za

In Beaufort West the mercury reached an impressive 45°C. My cheap thermometer may have been exaggerating but it certainly was hot! I made my way to another blockhouse just outside town. On my way there I was accosted by three thugs who tried to push me off my bike. I opened the throttle and they rethought their plan. They hurled insults and jeers as I rumbled past and I could see them pursuing me on foot for a short distance. I quickly outpaced them.

The blockhouse was in a miserable state of repair and I didn’t hang around for long. The cracked masonry and vandalised interior wasn’t particularly photogenic.
As I got back on my bike I saw the three hooligans climbing up the hill towards me. I rode away, chuckling at their clownish inability to capture me.

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S32.35757 E22.97902 – Windpump

The mercury in the thermometer dropped progressively as I left Beaufort West behind. I stopped by a windpump on the farm Elandsfontein. There was the merest breeze in the air, but the well-greased machine whirred away cheerfully ejaculating water at every stroke.

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S32.49391 E23.57495 - Farm school

Near the Kariga River a few kilometres after the dam I came across this old farm school. The structure was in immaculate condition but there were no children attending classes. It was a weekday and still early afternoon. Puzzling...

Eventually - but surprisingly early - I rolled into Graaff-Reinet. The town was abuzz with pre-festival jitters. Several events were to take place that weekend, including a Harley Davidson gathering and some arts and culture festival. Banners, bunting and lanterns were going up everywhere.

I turned into Urquart Campsite, negotiated my accommodation, and headed over to the dam wall.

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S32.23607 E24.52815 - Vanryneveldspas Dam

The dam was overflowing which made for great photo opportunities.
Afterwards I selected a spot to pitch my tent and made camp. My cellphone rang, it was Kaboef.
Kaboef would be my riding buddy from the next day onwards. Also joining us later that evening would be oo7 and superfoxi.

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S32.24069 E24.52821 - My tent at Urquhart Camp.

Kaboef had a slight problem; he was stuck on the side of the road with a flat tyre, 35km outside town. I had all the spare tubes with me so naturally I had to go help him.
The offending tube was replaced in no time at all. We got to camp just as darkness fell. As soon as I poured a whiskey my cellphone rang once again. oo7 and superfoxi were close. Light the fires!

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Photo by Kaboef

It was a balmy evening. There was no need for a tent and one could probably have kipped on the grass, wearing little more than trousers and a t-shirt. The fire burned late into the night but I was the first to hit the sack. It turns out that you can’t expect to party all night long when you’ve only had a toasted ham and cheese sandwich the entire day. The braaivleis of the evening came far too late to serve as a liner against the drink.
 
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