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Author Topic: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz  (Read 3468 times)

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Offline NiteOwl

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A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« on: January 10, 2013, 09:56:07 am »
Mozambique Island lies 1500 km north of Maputu as the proverbial crow flies. The latter replaced it as Mozambique’s capital in 1898 when it simply became too small to house the burgeoning population. Today it is a World Heritage Site, but a shadow of its former glory. Time to take a look before it falls apart or gets restored…



My last visit to Northern Mozambique was in 2005 and then we did a dog-leg via Malawi. It seemed like a good idea to take a break at the end of this year (2012) to fill that gap in my personal atlas. Since I’m travelling alone I want to be as light as possible, so no chair, no sleeping bag, no tent outer, no extra tools, no spares…

It’s the start of the holiday season and I join the great trek of all the migrant labourers heading home for Christmas with as many earthly goods as possible.



For many, the effect of this overloading is a predictable failure of tyres, bearings or suspension.



Apart from the toll gates (R179 in total from Pretoria to Messina), progress is smooth. After a cold pie in Louis Trichardt the road cuts through the Soutpansberg and the final hot stretch to the border.
 


An abandoned mine shaft looms over the town of Messina, its only use now as an antenna mounting site.



The queues at South Africa’s only border post with Zimbabwe are a perennial problem, and during the festive season they can stretch for hundreds of meters. I grab my water bottle and join the sweaty line in front of the Immigration counters.


 
Apart from a total lack of tourism promotion, Zimbabwe is positively tourist-hostile with the rates slapped on vehicles entering the country: R 40 for a motorcycle  Temporary Import Permit (TIP), R60 carbon tax, R90 Road access tax, R180 3rd Party Insurance: R 370 in total ! TIPs for cars are R90, by the way, and you have to pony up another $4 to use the Beit bridge on your way home.



Most roads still have the thin strips from the UDI days alongside them (tar was very scarce in those days). Apart from some branches laid across the road, they are still usable in places, but traffic on the main roads is thin compared to South Africa.



Dusk is gathering as I pass the Lion and Elephant hotel near Bubi but the ripoff at the border has made me determined to spend the minimum amount of time and money in Zimbabwe. 10 km short of Masvingo I pull off into the bushes and strike camp. 760 km down!



The traffic gradually quietens down as I unpack and prepare some coffee. More is nog 'n dag!


Do it before you die!
 

Offline JonW

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #1 on: January 10, 2013, 10:04:56 am »
Magic Ride Report so far, looking forward to the rest.

btw, welcome to the forum  :thumleft:
How can I be lost when I have got nowhere to go?
 

Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #2 on: January 10, 2013, 10:06:29 am »
Kan nie wag vir die res!! :thumleft:

Waarvoor is die twee wasgoedpennetjies op jou handguards? Nat sokkies ophang?
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Offline lonerider

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #3 on: January 10, 2013, 10:07:44 am »
Fantastic first post - bring on the rest!

great night shot of your camp and the traffic behind you...

And what are the laundry pegs for on your hand guards? ;)
[snip]
I do not think that dying is a good idea.
Living doing something that you love is a good idea.
Living until you die is a good idea. If living happens to kill you it means you made a mistake, but we are human, and humans make mistakes, so go for it, enjoy it, live until you die, rather than not living for your whole life.
 

Offline Bacchus2

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #4 on: January 10, 2013, 11:21:17 am »
 :sip:
 

Offline J-dog

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #5 on: January 10, 2013, 11:23:08 am »
 :sip:
 

Offline Mikie

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #6 on: January 10, 2013, 11:25:05 am »
You have my attention!!!   :study:
:paw:

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Offline DeepBass9

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #7 on: January 10, 2013, 11:26:29 am »
Sub

Offline ClimbingTurtle

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #8 on: January 10, 2013, 11:39:00 am »
Been wanting to do a Zim trip for a while - this is not helping.....  :biggrin:

Lekker so far!! :thumleft:
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Offline Justin

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #9 on: January 10, 2013, 12:08:28 pm »
Ja, keep em coming!
Carpe diem!
 

Offline Oupa Foe-rie

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #10 on: January 10, 2013, 12:19:40 pm »
 :sip: Waiting for the next episode ................  :thumleft:
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Offline Circlip

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #11 on: January 10, 2013, 12:24:59 pm »
Good start, sub.
I'm not as young as I once was, but I can be as young once as I ever was. G.Hazell
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Offline Malibu

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #12 on: January 10, 2013, 12:25:53 pm »
*sub*
They call me Judy or Judes...

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Offline Kawaki

Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #13 on: January 10, 2013, 12:26:50 pm »
 :pot:
 

Offline Peter Vee

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #14 on: January 10, 2013, 12:40:35 pm »
Looking good.... did that trip a few years ago in a Landie... never been the same since  :laughing4:    looking to the rest of this RR.

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Offline Fuzzy Muzzy

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #15 on: January 10, 2013, 02:27:51 pm »
Really looking forward to this one. i was last there in 2009, so keen to see it all again.. keep it coming.

Gooi as much info on Zim as well, the more recent the info the better from travellers.
Africa trip, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia, Malawi, Tanzania & Moz rr http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=61231.0
 

Offline Onetime

Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #16 on: January 10, 2013, 02:46:00 pm »
 :thumleft:
Onetime to live your life. No time to wait for someday or you will find that someday was yesterday.

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Offline NiteOwl

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Wasgoed penne
« Reply #17 on: January 11, 2013, 02:41:16 am »
Dankie vir die verwelkoming en die belangstelling!

Hopelik is die inligting nuttig vir mense wat planne vir Pemba of Dar het. Dinge het nogal verander in die 7 jaar wat ek laas in die omgewing was, maar die skrille kontras met Suid Afrika se relatiewe welvaart vat nogal aan 'n mens.

Daar is niks besonders aan die wasgoedpenne nie, maar die handbeskermers is 'n goeie bereplek.
Do it before you die!
 

Offline KTMRICK

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #18 on: January 11, 2013, 10:04:08 am »
sub
 

Offline alwyn_gs

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Re: A Quick Detox to the Ilha de Moz
« Reply #19 on: January 11, 2013, 10:37:02 am »
 :thumleft:

Sub   :happy1:
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