Author Topic: Africa Raw Paws (Read 8207 times)

Kaboef · « **Reply #240 on:** March 09, 2013, 02:21:32 pm »

Great report!!

Thanks very much!!

Hubs640 · « **Reply #241 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:10:17 am »

Day 43/44/45 - Cape Mclear surroundings. [0km , 100% babelas]

Up until now we were very good and did not really indulge,but man these hangovers were getting hectic! We started the day with an oily breakfast ,arranged 2 catfish to braai that night and took some snorkel gear to the point - Cape Mclear must be the best place to go diving in Lake Malawi. The water is like a bath tub and the visibility probably 30 meter + with all the fish giving you the impression that you are swimming in a tank[thats what it felt like to me,because I used to have a Malawi fishtank]. The rest of the day we spent swimming and drinking some more making friends with all the holiday comers.Us and the Zambians prepared an awesome fish braai that night for the group of 12 who really enjoyed it. The next day we were fresh for a change-we booked a boat scuba dive for 2pm and spent the morning finally changing the rear tyres [those Michellin Deserts have done 9000km+ and still has some tread on,but carrying and extra tyre became a las] and giving the bikes a service. The dive cost $40 and was worth every cent-lots of fish[even a Dolfinfish] and Roadkill even found a crocodile tooth-proof that they are around.After the dive we got ready for the New Years Party at Gecko which turned out to be epic-loads of people,pumping tunes,fires on the beach and a fireworks display over the lake.The next day's hangover was no surprise-we were meant to leave on 1st Jan,but due to an exploding headache and Roadkills b-day being the next day,we decided to just relax [like we have not been doing much of that] for the day and rest. It is still hot everyday and so nice to be able to just dive into the lake when you feel like it. We would take it easy and be fresh the next day-it was time to get onto the bikes again and continue this trip.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #242 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:18:21 am »

The point where we went snorkeling

Hubs640 · « **Reply #243 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:20:25 am »

Changing tyre's with an audience

Hubs640 · « **Reply #244 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:21:39 am »

The old Michellin Desert and the new Mitas E07 - check that Michellin still had some tread left

Hubs640 · « **Reply #245 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:23:15 am »

Us with the Zambians at the dive shop-man that dive was epic! The boat ride was about 10 min to the island and the spot where we went was called Aquarium

Hubs640 · « **Reply #246 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:26:59 am »

This is what I found back at our camp coming back from the new years party....free entertainment...well it did cost a few tequila's,but was forth it.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #247 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:28:25 am »

Thought I'll just through this nice pic of the lake in there to calm the viewers after the previous pic.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #248 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:43:56 am »

Day 46 - Cape Mclear to Chikwawa [310km , 90% tar]

We were up early and had the bikes ready to go after a coffee and some breakfast. We had a last 'loop in en maak brand' mission with the Zambians celebrating Roadkill's birthday,said our good buys and were off at about 10am. We headed SE till Mangochi along the lake and then S through Zomba. The scenery turned into mountains again with lush green forests. We stopped in Blantyre [which is a huge city] at the Shoprite to stock up on food [got some nice steaks for the birthday boy] and continued further south.We wanted to get as close to the Mozambican border as possible. Track for Africa showed a lodge called Fishermans Lodge and we were told of big Tigers south of the Shire River,but the lodge ended up being high on the mountain [false advertising] and too expensive for our now already broken budget. So we continued down the steep mountain pass till Chikwawa and found a cheep local lodge with a fan. It is still damn hot and the occasional showers do not really cool you down. We braaied some steak that night and left the bikes packed so we can make the border and more the next day.After taking it so easy in Malawi we suddenly realised we were running out of time [had to be back at work in 13 day's] and had to give Tiger fishing in the Shire River a skip.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #249 on:** March 10, 2013, 09:49:04 am »

Packing up camp at Fat Monkeys - man that was an unforgettable new year experience

Hubs640 · « **Reply #250 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:15:03 am »

Day 47 - Chikwawa to Chimuara/Mozambique [ 290km , 80% gravel]

That night it was very hot-the fan did not help and I had a few showers during the night just to cool off.At 10am we were ready to hit the road,but sweating like a pig. 50km further we came to a dirt road that needed some serious attention-after 80km of that we got to Bangula which was connected to Nsanje with a tar road. From there it was a challenging dirt track to Vila Nova-the Mozambican border post. We had to wait for the Immigrations officer who turned up on a bicycle taxi-my stomach was giving me trouble and had to use their long drop facilities.4km further you get to the Mozambican side of the border-its like a whole new world. Besides only Portuguese being spoken[unbelievable what can change in 4km] it looks like the country is still at war-army everywhere and all the buildings look like they were target practise.We got through there without having to pay and were also able to exchange MK for Metica's on the black market-its alway's good to know what the updated current exchange is,because these guy's will not hesitate to take advantage of you.The road further became even more challenging with sections of deep lose sand and deep trenches.We bumped into 2 arrogant Hollanders on Suzuki's heading north-they explained a short cut over a train bridge we could take that would save us 150km. So at Mutarara we found this bridge,but the obstacle was about 20 steps to get ontop-locals offered to help at a ridiculous price,so we decided to test our KTM's and skill...no problem and we left the locals speechless and broke.The bridge is about 3 km long and on the other side we stopped to cool off first-both the rider and bike was overheating.Locals came with buckets of water and gave us a public shower...they saved us. After that it was a pleasant dirt road to Caia to where the tar started again.It is unbelievable the amount of Boababs in the fields here.At Caia we drew money and continued over a fancy bridge to Cua-Cua where we would spend the night.Very fancy place and also very expensive-the campsite was away from the rest of the lodge and again we were attacked by the mass of bugs. We spoiled ourselves to some chicken and chips in the restaurant and called it a night-what a tough day it was.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #251 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:23:03 am »

The Vila Nova border post-I was not aloud to take a picture of the Mozambican side

Hubs640 · « **Reply #252 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:24:31 am »

Even the statues don't like the people in Mozambique - that country looked like it was in serious need of help.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #253 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:26:42 am »

The steps up to the bridge-we did it with all the luggage still on and surprised the locals[and ourselves] who thought it was pay day...go KTM!

Hubs640 · « **Reply #254 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:27:55 am »

The locals gathered with buckets of water to cool the riders off....man it was hot!

Hubs640 · « **Reply #255 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:29:20 am »

The camp site at Cua Cua...we were attacked by bugs that night

Hubs640 · « **Reply #256 on:** March 10, 2013, 10:30:20 am »

The bar at the restaurant - this place is very expensive and only cater for tourists with money.

Karoo Rider · « **Reply #257 on:** March 10, 2013, 11:05:59 am »

Great report, on the bucket list for sure!

Hubs640 · « **Reply #258 on:** March 10, 2013, 12:44:36 pm »

Day 48 - Chimuara to Rio Save [ 604km , 100% tar]

This was our last chance of fishing for the illusive Tiger fish - from here we would head to the coast. But with time running out and no certainty of where we could go and not get eaten by crocodiles we through the white cloth in and gave up-we would have to come back one day and try again.We still wanted to squeeze in a scuba dive and still had to get back to CT in 11 day's time. So we packed the bikes,filled the waterbottles and headed back over the bridge to get to the EN1 which leads to Inchope. The bikes were still handling great and could easily cruise at 110km/h without pushing them,but the front wheel was starting to look dodgy with absolutely no tread left in some spots-our next chance for tyres would only be Maputo. The tar road to Inchope takes you through some thick forests with villages hidden in them. we made good time and would only stop every 150km for a siggy.From Inchope it was 270km of more tar road that takes you over quite a few dried out rivers-its amazing how the people use what little water there is left to do all their business in. Again our homework turned out to be questionable-it turned out there is no lodge or campsite in Rio Save. We settled for a grass hut at a local bar and were treated like kings-chicken and chips with a Castle Lite to wash it all down and nice to be out from the rain.It was a long day's ride and in bed early.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #259 on:** March 10, 2013, 12:47:17 pm »

The grass huts at the local bar in Rio Save