Author Topic: Africa Raw Paws (Read 8064 times)

Hubs640 · « **Reply #180 on:** February 27, 2013, 01:09:38 pm »

The bigger boats would load the smaller boats ontop when coming back into the bay - I would think it to be easy to get lost in such a big lake at night

Hubs640 · « **Reply #181 on:** February 27, 2013, 01:30:34 pm »

Day 32 - Mpulungu to Sumbawanga/Tanzania [ 170km , 60% mud]

We waited for a gap in the clouds to pack up camp,greeted new friends and were on our way. We did the same 40km back to Mbala and then another snot mud section of 30km in the rain to the border. The Zambian side was a joke-a gate with fencing 5 meter in either direction and then nothing;a small building with nobody in it. We fetched the customs officer from his house,but the immigrations officer was in town and has no transport. With both doing different duties,the customs guy said we had to go collect the immigrations guy in town to get a stamp to continue...this was not happening,so after some whoosa and lots of pleading he put his signature as an exit stamp in our passports. The Tanzanian side was a complete different story with finger and eye scans and $50 for visa and $25 for road tax,but it was clear that very few people use this post. And clear they do not use that tax money for the roads...pretty much the same as in Zambia,but here the Chinese were busy making a mess of things again. Roadkill swerved out for a chicken[maybe he felt guilty of the previous one he killed] and nearly had a serious accident.With only a sore hand and some bent luggage racks we did the 98km of service road till Sumbawanga. Very busy town and a culture change since Muslim is the main religion. I discovered an ant nest in my freaken helmet that has been cruising with since Mpulungu....I am talking thousands of ants,so we found a lodge for the night and took to town to try the local quizine-Roadkill had goat and chips while I tried their Buca Buca-very nice. Roadkill had some problems adjusting to the Muslim toilets back at the lodge,but laughed it off over a beer across the road.That night it rained really hard and I was glad we were not camping....the next day we would head further north.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #182 on:** February 27, 2013, 01:35:53 pm »

Tanzanian side of the border at Mbala

Hubs640 · « **Reply #183 on:** February 27, 2013, 01:37:37 pm »

Roadkills attempt to safe a chicken nearly cost his own...look,he is standing in the ditch that he would have crashed into if he did not deliberately put the bike down

Hubs640 · « **Reply #184 on:** February 27, 2013, 01:39:04 pm »

Sumbawanga is a busy town

Hubs640 · « **Reply #185 on:** February 27, 2013, 03:38:45 pm »

Day 33 - Sumbawanga to Tunduma [ 240km , 80% gravel]

Again we waited for the rain to calm down before heading off to the petrol station - here in Tanzania they only have diesel and leaded petrol[SUPER] at 2300 Ts p/l which is a great problem for our bikes,so instead of doing a loop around Lake Rukwa like we originally planned,we decided to head strait for Mbeya to collect our 'golden' tyre's.So with tanks filled up we left town on a road that shows as tar on the map,but should have known better...again the Chinese is making a mess of things and we were forced to use the service road which diverse from mud to sharp stones,but it was slow going - it takes about 1 hour to do 20km! Somewhere between stops I misplaced my neckbrace and lost the damn thing....Africa took it. There were less animals on the road than in Zambia,but more crazy drivers with trucks having NO problem pushing you off the road. We got to Tunduma at 5 pm and did not anticipate the chaos - its on the border and part of the 'great north' road. Trucks and people everywhere and everyone were looking for a quick buck. I left Roadkill in a stampede of people while I was trying to get a place to stay - luckily we got an escort to Silver Stone Annex Inn which was in the industrial area[well it looked like it,but I suppose the whole of Tunduma was industrial]. We had a few Safari beers and beef with chips for supper,but struggled to sleep with all the commotion going on through the night....man I missed the bush!

Hubs640 · « **Reply #186 on:** February 27, 2013, 03:51:47 pm »

Our baby's tucked away for the night

Hubs640 · « **Reply #187 on:** February 27, 2013, 04:17:01 pm »

Day 34 - Tunduma to Karonga/Malawi [ 290km , 90% tar]

Having slept very little due to people with no respect we packed the bikes and were on the road by 7am.Tunduma is on a Plato and you can see into the green green valley's for miles! The road was in good condition and had a few police check points,but none that stopped us.Word of advise-BE CAREFULL ON GREAT NORTH ROAD...people drive like maniacs!Once in Mbeya we contacted the person who had our tyre's for directions and took the opportunity of another busy town to see if we cannot get new front tyre's since they now started to look worn.No luck-we could find 21inch for 'picky-picky's' but none broad enough.Our rears were on a farm just outside of town on the way to the Malawi border which worked out perfect.The road took us up the mountain and being part of the volcanic strip everything is lush green here and very beautiful.I noticed another crack in my luggage rack just as we were about to leave Rob's[the guy who had our tyre's] place and was able to use his factory to fix it,but this took time and we had to get to the border before it closes.Its all tar from Mbeya to the border,but what an awesome drive-nice curves through stunning scenery with the lake[Lake Malawi] in the distance.It was so nice that we did not see the traffic police-got our first speeding fine...95 in a 60 zone will cost you 30 000 Ts and man do they have attitude!We had no money and told him to come to the border[which was 1km further] so we can arrange some at the exchange....well we left him there and rushed through the post...it was going into his pocket anyway.The border itself took long and we were forced to do the last 40km in the dark which is never a good idea-too many people and animals caused a few close calls.8pm that night we got to Karongo-it was a long,hot, tough day with lots of stress and had to settle for pilchards and noodles for supper.It was Friday night and again we would struggle to sleep with all the parties happening around us,but at least we were finally in Malawi-Good times were waiting once again!

Hubs640 · « **Reply #188 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:22:12 pm »

We stopped at this fruit market in Mbeya for a nice pineapple

Hubs640 · « **Reply #189 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:24:49 pm »

Us with Rob at his factory - he received our tyre's and helped me to weld my luggage racks

Hubs640 · « **Reply #190 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:25:45 pm »

Malawi border control coming from Tanzania

Hubs640 · « **Reply #191 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:47:19 pm »

Day 35 - Karonga to Chitimba [ 110km , 100% tar]

It felt like we were always in a rush,but Malawi has got a very relaxed attitude that rubs off on you...quickly. We took our time in the morning and only hit the road after 12. The people are extremely friendly here and just want to help. We stopped in town to stock up on cash [they even have a Standard bank here], cooled off with a coke and then headed south[which in the back of our minds it felt like the trip is nearing its end]. It was so beautiful to ride along the lake with its stunning bay's and blue water and mountain peaks with green plantation to your right. We rode though more fishing towns which has the same 'rape' attitude when it comes to fishing by the looks of it. We reached Chitimba in no time and decided on Chitimba Lodge for the night...very fancy place,but owned by an arrogant Hollander-we pitched our tents and explored the beach a bit and ended up having a party at the place next door which had a much better vibe. We started meeting allot of travelers again-poeple who took the year off and just backpack through Africa....so jealous yet inspiring.The camp next door was owned by an SA'ner called Willie who talked allot of rubbish and played old old south african music...maybe that's why we had such a good time. We also tested the local green ciggies on the beach with our new friends which really got the apatite going...that night we ate our pre arranged chicken with the boring crowed back at our camp and set for bed just before the storm....it rained so hard [with lightning that I have never experienced] that we would find Roadkills bike on its side the next day.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #192 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:50:10 pm »

We were greeted by this guy in the morning trying to sell some of his catch of the previous night

Hubs640 · « **Reply #193 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:51:34 pm »

Thats Bosco-he runs the place at Karongo and helped us to settle in when we arrived there in the dark...very friendly oke

Hubs640 · « **Reply #194 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:55:42 pm »

Chitimba Lodge...very nice,but there are better places to go stay if you do come through here. The owner is a poepol and you have to pay before they serve you anything....even beer

Hubs640 · « **Reply #195 on:** February 28, 2013, 04:56:40 pm »

That is Livingstonia up on the mountain in the distance - we would go there...

chickenbadger · « **Reply #196 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:02:46 pm »

Quote from: Hubs640 on February 28, 2013, 04:24:49 pm

Us with Rob at his factory - he received our tyre's and helped me to weld my luggage racks

Howsit Hubs640, jas this is getting me lank excited for our trip, the bikes are still stuck in Durban, bastards at the shipping companies!!!

How did those new tires fare? I have put those guys on new before the bikes head off...?

Hubs640 · « **Reply #197 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:17:29 pm »

Day 36 - Chitimba to surroundings [ 2km , single track up the mountain]

The thunder and lighting was so hectic that it felt like we would be struck.I woke up early and had a nice stroll along the lake into town to try the local cuisine alongside the road...fried goat and chips...nice. We were asked by a friend back home to go have a look at a place he invested in 5 years ago which was just across the road up into the mountain call Africa Village,so with the bad vibe at camp we decided to pack the bikes and do the 2km waiting...nice and slow. We stopped at a rasta cafe for lunch and the were guided to the single track that leads to the village-intense track especially with all the luggage on and a spare tyre. I struggled up,but once on top we had all the kids up there with us-never has a bike come through there!It is a true village built with the surrounding materials run by a guy called Micheal...what an awesome experience that was-no running water or electricity other than a small solar panel. Micheal knew we were coming and was extremely eager to show us what he has managed with the money sent by the friend back home. We had some more 'relax tobacco' and just enjoyed the view from up there-you could see as far as the mountains on the other side of the lake. That night we enjoyed the thunder and lightning storm in the distance-it was like nature gave us a show.

Hubs640 · « **Reply #198 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:22:32 pm »

Rasta shop where we had lunch....and yes,that is Roadkill....he just shaved for the first time

Hubs640 · « **Reply #199 on:** February 28, 2013, 05:24:21 pm »

African Village-they have 3 bungalows and a lounge area