Baked Beans
Pack Dog
So sometime last year over a glass of beer Skolla aka OMAAN for this trip mentioned that he wants to go and visit his son in Highflats somewhere in Natal at the end of the year. Come to think of it, Omaan must write this report. Anyhow I was in and later I hear that my sister’s son from the Nederland (for now the Dutchmen) will be here over December. He was also keen on going on a bike trip. When he visited us in 2011 I took him for a two day trip over the Swartberg to Gamka River at Prince Albert and back. First things first, the Dutchmen had to get his learners licence before he can go on the trip. After that he was officially in. So the plan was to departure George on the 12th, sleep where we get tired and that was basically it. We had more or less a route planned from George to Highflats; from there we would see how it panned out. So the convoy consist of me (Baked Beans) on a 2010 Suzuki DR 650, Omaan on a 2011 Yamaha Tenere 660 and the Dutchmen on my old 1982 Honda XL 500. The pictures will tell the story; the text is just to fill the gaps. Here follow our story and adventure over the next few days….
12 December
We met at the Wimpy in Heatherlands and set of over the Montagu Pass, via Paarde Poort to De Rust. In Meirings Poort we stretch our legs at the waterfall and had Viennas and buns for breakfast. From Klaarstroom we took the dirt road to Willowmore where we had to wash down the dust with a cold bear. From Willowmore we went to Klipplaat, Jansenville, Pearston and Cradock. A nice start just to get use to the bikes again. At Cradock we camped at the Spa. If anyone knows of nice campsites or places to overnight in Cradock please let me know. We had some cold beer and boerewors rolls for supper. After setting up his tent, Omaan realised that his air mattress don’t want to fit into his 2 man tent. After some persuasion Omaan manage the get everything, including himself into the tent. That night the Dutchmen hear the “doodsroggel” for the first time and that’s not for the faint hearted…
13 December
We woke up with some raindrops falling on the tents and blue thunderclouds not so far away. After some Oats with margarine and condensed milk for breakfast we were ready for the day ahead. For now the rain stayed away. Just before Tarkastad we stop for left overs from the previous night and corned beef for desert. On our way to Sterkstroom I took a wrong turn off and when we turn around the Dutchmen realised that he has lost his tarp. The clouds become darker as we drove to Dordrecht with lightning and thunder at the order of the day. It was not long before we find ourselves in the midst of a thunderstorm with some hail as well. And was the Dutchmen glad that he got himself a full-face helmet. We tip toe our way to Dordrecht and lucky for us the road did not become slippery. The last 100 m or so just before you reached the tar road to Dordrecht was more of a challenge… deep tracks with some mud. At Dordrecht we enjoyed a cup of coffee to get the cold out of our bodies. On the way to Hartebeesthoek there is a stretch of road that is covered with pebbles and also required some concentration to keep the bikes on the road. Here a police van almost takes us out. The rest of the road to Barkly East was a nice ride with some spectacular scenery. We tried to get a place to stay closer to Lundeans Nek but at the end the locals convince us to stay over in Barkly’s. Also for the better because it was not long before the floodgates open and the rain was poring down. The owners of Fanie’s Sports Pub also have rooms to let. After a nice meal at the pub we went for a good nights rest.
14 December
After the rain of the previous night we had our doubts about the road conditions to Lundeans Nek. We grab a toasted cheese, bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast and got something (bread, corned beef, chicken viennas and mash) to eat during the day and for supper. On our way to Lundeans Nek we go out first taste of some slippery roads. We manage to negotiate the wet conditions, again with some fancy footwork. At the police check point they inform us that the road ahead to Lower Telle is not that bad. Also some breath-taking views over the mountains and the valleys. Although it was the Friday before the long weekend, it did not take that long to go through customs. In Lesotho you do not get a meaningful answer and if you ask a question with an answer in it, the answer will most probably be yes. How far is it to the next village? Answer: Far or not far or yes. Is it 10 km to the next village? Yes. The first part of the dirt road was good. In the back we could see some thunderclouds and I started worrying of what may lay ahead. Later on the road becomes wet and slippery. At a steady pace we carry on. Just outside a village we encounter a steep incline that was slippery with some deep tracks full of branches. A sign of other vehicles struggle to get out of this sticky situation. Omaan got stuck in the track and we had to help him get out if it, during which he also damages his clutch. He did not have much clutch control and that make it difficult to handle the bike in tricky situations. We decided to catch our breaths and also have something to eat – corned beef, bread and chutney. Here Omaan also meet his buddies. Not knowing what lies ahead, how bad is the damage to the clutch and how the road conditions will be, we decided to go back to the main road and to SA. From here on the road conditions was not too bad. Apparently Omaan fall over twice but luckily the Dutchmen was there to give him a hand. On the way to Maseru the Honda’s heat shield broke, leaving a hole in the exhaust pipe that slowly roasts the Dutchmen. Also the bracket that holds the exhaust broke, but we manage to do some roadside repairs. What an experience to drive through Maseru on a Friday night. You have to be on the lookout for taxis, people and animals at the same time. To make matters worse, the rain keeps on pouring down. Soaked to the bone we arrived at Ladybrand where we stayed over at the Ladybrand Guesthouse. For supper we had mash, chicken viennas and baked beans. After a nice shower we hit the deck.
15 December
For breakfast we had Taystee Wheat with margarine and condensed milk. There were still some isolated showers coming down. Not far outside Ladybrand the Honda decided it needs some TLC. Since the Honda is not today’s child anymore, I expected the worse. Each time we full up, the Honda need a shot of oil (make that a double). Luckily it was only some dampness on the sparkplug. In Ficksburg we had some lunch at Wimpy and got some supplies for dinner. Back to Lesotho once again. In Maputsoe we had to go with the flow again. It is like a big drive through market and I believe you can buy almost anything from the sidewalks. The walky talkies (chicken heads and feet) did not look that nice, but it smells good. On our way to the Mafika Lisiu Pass it started to rain again and the steep part of the pass to the summit we drove in thick mist. Wet to the bone and cold, we briefly stop at the summit before we start with our descent to Katse Dam. Luckily the weather was clearing up inland and we had our first glance at the upper Katse Dam. At Katse Lodge we enjoyed a Maluti Premium Lager and a chat with some other bikers. It seems as if there are five or more different routes that will take you to Kaste Dam. Due to miss communication we each end up with our own room with two beds in the dormitory at Katse Lodge. Omaan and the Dutchmen were on a mission to get us some firewood. They had to comment on that themselves. Thanks to them we had a nice braai in Lesotho.
16 December
There were some clouds, but other that that it looks like a nice day that lays ahead of us. The road was not too bad and there were some water and mud puddles. On our way to the village of Thabong we encounter so incidents of stone throwing. Luckily no direct hits. It seems as if they target the last person, knowing that he will not turn around. Maybe it is a good idea to ride in a group when riding through villages. In Thabong I saw a few places that seem nice to stay over, so if any of you have stayed over there, please let me know. From Thabong we followed the A3 east. Here we came across a group of say eight bikers heading the opposite direction. It seems that there are people all over Lesotho because the chances are good, no matter where you stop, within a few minutes someone will show up. On the A14 to Sani there were some road works and we had to watch out for construction vehicles, potholes and sharp rocks. The last few kilometres we drove in thick fog and rain. At the pub we stop for a beer that set us back R25 a piece and we wait a while for the fog to lift. Almost at the top of Sani Pass there was a guy who had a problem with his bike. The taxi offered to tow him, rather him than me. They were also busy with some road works at the top part of Sani and it was not easy going down on your own steam, let alone being towed up. Just before the SA border post the fog and clouds lift. We make our way to Himeville and decided to push on to Highflats to Oman’s son. The last hour or so the Honda was sandwich between the other two bikes to provide some light. To make matters worse, it was raining again. After an eventful day we safely arrived at Highflats.
17 & 18 December
This was our days off so we sleep a bit late and gain on some lost sleep. On the 17th we went for an outing to Amanzimtoti. The rest of the day we just relaxed. The 18th was washing day and after that we explore Highflats and Ixopo by bakkie.
19 December
Back on the bikes again. From Highflats we were heading towards Port Saint Johns. Not knowing the condition of the roads and river crossings, we opt to stay on the “main” road. At Port Saint Johns it was a beehive of activities. We manage the fill up the bikes and get something to eat. We decided to press on for Coffee Bay. I was a bit worried about the part where the map indicates it as the Wild Coast Trail and the road become narrower and less travelled. We just carried on and later the road become like a highway again. Apparently the Dutchmen lose it on one of the turns and end up in the windrow. No harm done. A double cab Hilux also lose it on one of the turns but he was less fortunate and ends up on its side. We made Coffee Bay in good time and wash down the dust with a gold one. First the lady told us that there was no camping available so we end up in a rondawel with two bunk beds, fridge, kettle and loo. Later her husband offers us a chalet with its own bathroom for the same price. After a few more drinks and a nice T-bone we hit the deck.
20 December
We went for a quick swim in the sea before we head of for the Hole in the Wall. We crisscross our way in the direction of Butterworth and from there back to Kei Mouth on a mixture of tar and dirt roads. Near Butterworth we had some rain, but the rest of the dirt roads were good to travel on. At Kei Mouth we took the ferry to the other side of the river. There are a lot of nice dirt roads in the Transkei, but you need some time to go and explore them. I would like to o back there and just do that. We stayed over at the camping grounds and since it was warm we decided to sleep under the stars. It took us almost the whole night to get he fire going, must have been some driftwood. Eventually we manage to braai.
21 December
Our sleep was rudely interrupted by raindrops falling on us. We rush to get everything covered and just as soon as the rain started, just so sudden it stops. Since we were up, we pack up and headed for Grahamstown via Stutterheim. Again on a mixture of tar and dirt road. Some places the dirt roads were overgrown and at each stop we had to look for ticks. Since it was hot we stop every 50km or so to give the bikes and ourselves a breather. Again some nice dirt roads with beautiful scenery. On the last stretch of road to my cousins farm, I realised there is no bikes behind me any more. First thought through my mind is man down. Great was my relief when I come around a bend and see both the Dutchman and Omaan in tip top shape. It was the Honda, it just lose power and grunt to a stop 14km from our overnight stop. So I went to my cousin and we came back and pick up the bike. That was enough excitement for one day. We decided that Omaan and I will go to George the next day and then I will come back to recover the Honda.
22 December
Early morning and it was hot already. We full up at Grahamstown and headed for George via Riebeeck East, along the northern boundary of Addo, Wolwefontein, Steytlerville, and Willowmore to George. The patches of shale gravel provide some challenges at times. Between Wolwefontein and Baroe Omaan lost his neck brace, but other than that we had a safe trip home. Back home, I went for a shower before taking on the road back to Grahamstown.
23 December
We slept in and after a nice brunch we say out goodbyes and headed back home. That afternoon we drive through a nice thunderstorm on our way back. Back home the trip was officially over now. After a shower and some rest, I feel ready to plan the next trip. Almost like after a thunderstorm where everything seems so fresh and eager awaiting the new life and adventure that comes with the rain.
To my riding partners, thanks for a great time. Till the next time, drive safe.
12 December
We met at the Wimpy in Heatherlands and set of over the Montagu Pass, via Paarde Poort to De Rust. In Meirings Poort we stretch our legs at the waterfall and had Viennas and buns for breakfast. From Klaarstroom we took the dirt road to Willowmore where we had to wash down the dust with a cold bear. From Willowmore we went to Klipplaat, Jansenville, Pearston and Cradock. A nice start just to get use to the bikes again. At Cradock we camped at the Spa. If anyone knows of nice campsites or places to overnight in Cradock please let me know. We had some cold beer and boerewors rolls for supper. After setting up his tent, Omaan realised that his air mattress don’t want to fit into his 2 man tent. After some persuasion Omaan manage the get everything, including himself into the tent. That night the Dutchmen hear the “doodsroggel” for the first time and that’s not for the faint hearted…
13 December
We woke up with some raindrops falling on the tents and blue thunderclouds not so far away. After some Oats with margarine and condensed milk for breakfast we were ready for the day ahead. For now the rain stayed away. Just before Tarkastad we stop for left overs from the previous night and corned beef for desert. On our way to Sterkstroom I took a wrong turn off and when we turn around the Dutchmen realised that he has lost his tarp. The clouds become darker as we drove to Dordrecht with lightning and thunder at the order of the day. It was not long before we find ourselves in the midst of a thunderstorm with some hail as well. And was the Dutchmen glad that he got himself a full-face helmet. We tip toe our way to Dordrecht and lucky for us the road did not become slippery. The last 100 m or so just before you reached the tar road to Dordrecht was more of a challenge… deep tracks with some mud. At Dordrecht we enjoyed a cup of coffee to get the cold out of our bodies. On the way to Hartebeesthoek there is a stretch of road that is covered with pebbles and also required some concentration to keep the bikes on the road. Here a police van almost takes us out. The rest of the road to Barkly East was a nice ride with some spectacular scenery. We tried to get a place to stay closer to Lundeans Nek but at the end the locals convince us to stay over in Barkly’s. Also for the better because it was not long before the floodgates open and the rain was poring down. The owners of Fanie’s Sports Pub also have rooms to let. After a nice meal at the pub we went for a good nights rest.
14 December
After the rain of the previous night we had our doubts about the road conditions to Lundeans Nek. We grab a toasted cheese, bacon and egg sandwich for breakfast and got something (bread, corned beef, chicken viennas and mash) to eat during the day and for supper. On our way to Lundeans Nek we go out first taste of some slippery roads. We manage to negotiate the wet conditions, again with some fancy footwork. At the police check point they inform us that the road ahead to Lower Telle is not that bad. Also some breath-taking views over the mountains and the valleys. Although it was the Friday before the long weekend, it did not take that long to go through customs. In Lesotho you do not get a meaningful answer and if you ask a question with an answer in it, the answer will most probably be yes. How far is it to the next village? Answer: Far or not far or yes. Is it 10 km to the next village? Yes. The first part of the dirt road was good. In the back we could see some thunderclouds and I started worrying of what may lay ahead. Later on the road becomes wet and slippery. At a steady pace we carry on. Just outside a village we encounter a steep incline that was slippery with some deep tracks full of branches. A sign of other vehicles struggle to get out of this sticky situation. Omaan got stuck in the track and we had to help him get out if it, during which he also damages his clutch. He did not have much clutch control and that make it difficult to handle the bike in tricky situations. We decided to catch our breaths and also have something to eat – corned beef, bread and chutney. Here Omaan also meet his buddies. Not knowing what lies ahead, how bad is the damage to the clutch and how the road conditions will be, we decided to go back to the main road and to SA. From here on the road conditions was not too bad. Apparently Omaan fall over twice but luckily the Dutchmen was there to give him a hand. On the way to Maseru the Honda’s heat shield broke, leaving a hole in the exhaust pipe that slowly roasts the Dutchmen. Also the bracket that holds the exhaust broke, but we manage to do some roadside repairs. What an experience to drive through Maseru on a Friday night. You have to be on the lookout for taxis, people and animals at the same time. To make matters worse, the rain keeps on pouring down. Soaked to the bone we arrived at Ladybrand where we stayed over at the Ladybrand Guesthouse. For supper we had mash, chicken viennas and baked beans. After a nice shower we hit the deck.
15 December
For breakfast we had Taystee Wheat with margarine and condensed milk. There were still some isolated showers coming down. Not far outside Ladybrand the Honda decided it needs some TLC. Since the Honda is not today’s child anymore, I expected the worse. Each time we full up, the Honda need a shot of oil (make that a double). Luckily it was only some dampness on the sparkplug. In Ficksburg we had some lunch at Wimpy and got some supplies for dinner. Back to Lesotho once again. In Maputsoe we had to go with the flow again. It is like a big drive through market and I believe you can buy almost anything from the sidewalks. The walky talkies (chicken heads and feet) did not look that nice, but it smells good. On our way to the Mafika Lisiu Pass it started to rain again and the steep part of the pass to the summit we drove in thick mist. Wet to the bone and cold, we briefly stop at the summit before we start with our descent to Katse Dam. Luckily the weather was clearing up inland and we had our first glance at the upper Katse Dam. At Katse Lodge we enjoyed a Maluti Premium Lager and a chat with some other bikers. It seems as if there are five or more different routes that will take you to Kaste Dam. Due to miss communication we each end up with our own room with two beds in the dormitory at Katse Lodge. Omaan and the Dutchmen were on a mission to get us some firewood. They had to comment on that themselves. Thanks to them we had a nice braai in Lesotho.
16 December
There were some clouds, but other that that it looks like a nice day that lays ahead of us. The road was not too bad and there were some water and mud puddles. On our way to the village of Thabong we encounter so incidents of stone throwing. Luckily no direct hits. It seems as if they target the last person, knowing that he will not turn around. Maybe it is a good idea to ride in a group when riding through villages. In Thabong I saw a few places that seem nice to stay over, so if any of you have stayed over there, please let me know. From Thabong we followed the A3 east. Here we came across a group of say eight bikers heading the opposite direction. It seems that there are people all over Lesotho because the chances are good, no matter where you stop, within a few minutes someone will show up. On the A14 to Sani there were some road works and we had to watch out for construction vehicles, potholes and sharp rocks. The last few kilometres we drove in thick fog and rain. At the pub we stop for a beer that set us back R25 a piece and we wait a while for the fog to lift. Almost at the top of Sani Pass there was a guy who had a problem with his bike. The taxi offered to tow him, rather him than me. They were also busy with some road works at the top part of Sani and it was not easy going down on your own steam, let alone being towed up. Just before the SA border post the fog and clouds lift. We make our way to Himeville and decided to push on to Highflats to Oman’s son. The last hour or so the Honda was sandwich between the other two bikes to provide some light. To make matters worse, it was raining again. After an eventful day we safely arrived at Highflats.
17 & 18 December
This was our days off so we sleep a bit late and gain on some lost sleep. On the 17th we went for an outing to Amanzimtoti. The rest of the day we just relaxed. The 18th was washing day and after that we explore Highflats and Ixopo by bakkie.
19 December
Back on the bikes again. From Highflats we were heading towards Port Saint Johns. Not knowing the condition of the roads and river crossings, we opt to stay on the “main” road. At Port Saint Johns it was a beehive of activities. We manage the fill up the bikes and get something to eat. We decided to press on for Coffee Bay. I was a bit worried about the part where the map indicates it as the Wild Coast Trail and the road become narrower and less travelled. We just carried on and later the road become like a highway again. Apparently the Dutchmen lose it on one of the turns and end up in the windrow. No harm done. A double cab Hilux also lose it on one of the turns but he was less fortunate and ends up on its side. We made Coffee Bay in good time and wash down the dust with a gold one. First the lady told us that there was no camping available so we end up in a rondawel with two bunk beds, fridge, kettle and loo. Later her husband offers us a chalet with its own bathroom for the same price. After a few more drinks and a nice T-bone we hit the deck.
20 December
We went for a quick swim in the sea before we head of for the Hole in the Wall. We crisscross our way in the direction of Butterworth and from there back to Kei Mouth on a mixture of tar and dirt roads. Near Butterworth we had some rain, but the rest of the dirt roads were good to travel on. At Kei Mouth we took the ferry to the other side of the river. There are a lot of nice dirt roads in the Transkei, but you need some time to go and explore them. I would like to o back there and just do that. We stayed over at the camping grounds and since it was warm we decided to sleep under the stars. It took us almost the whole night to get he fire going, must have been some driftwood. Eventually we manage to braai.
21 December
Our sleep was rudely interrupted by raindrops falling on us. We rush to get everything covered and just as soon as the rain started, just so sudden it stops. Since we were up, we pack up and headed for Grahamstown via Stutterheim. Again on a mixture of tar and dirt road. Some places the dirt roads were overgrown and at each stop we had to look for ticks. Since it was hot we stop every 50km or so to give the bikes and ourselves a breather. Again some nice dirt roads with beautiful scenery. On the last stretch of road to my cousins farm, I realised there is no bikes behind me any more. First thought through my mind is man down. Great was my relief when I come around a bend and see both the Dutchman and Omaan in tip top shape. It was the Honda, it just lose power and grunt to a stop 14km from our overnight stop. So I went to my cousin and we came back and pick up the bike. That was enough excitement for one day. We decided that Omaan and I will go to George the next day and then I will come back to recover the Honda.
22 December
Early morning and it was hot already. We full up at Grahamstown and headed for George via Riebeeck East, along the northern boundary of Addo, Wolwefontein, Steytlerville, and Willowmore to George. The patches of shale gravel provide some challenges at times. Between Wolwefontein and Baroe Omaan lost his neck brace, but other than that we had a safe trip home. Back home, I went for a shower before taking on the road back to Grahamstown.
23 December
We slept in and after a nice brunch we say out goodbyes and headed back home. That afternoon we drive through a nice thunderstorm on our way back. Back home the trip was officially over now. After a shower and some rest, I feel ready to plan the next trip. Almost like after a thunderstorm where everything seems so fresh and eager awaiting the new life and adventure that comes with the rain.
To my riding partners, thanks for a great time. Till the next time, drive safe.
