cloudgazer
Grey Hound
- Joined
- Oct 9, 2007
- Messages
- 5,135
- Reaction score
- 5
- Bike
- BMW F650GS / Dakar
DAY 1 – 350kms
Monday mornings are not usually the best time for most people – me included. But today was different. I would only be going to work for a total of 15 minutes on my way out of town.
This was going to be my first bike and camping trip in many months and I was super excited to get going.
Originally I had planned to take more than 2 weeks off so I could attend the Wild Dog Bash in Namibia before heading down to the Tankwa Karoo for Afrika Burn, but a lack of available time and funds killed those plans.
So while most people headed into the city bowl for work I headed for the Du Toitskloof pass. I turned off the N1 at Worcester and made my way to Montagu and the beautiful R62
I’ve ridden this legendary road many times, but have never actually stopped off at Ronnies Sex Shop. Usually because when I stop to fill up at Barrydale I have something to eat, and then feel it’s pointless to get off the bike again 23 kms later.
I had a nice lazy lunch and beer at Ronnies, enjoying the day and watching the tourists roll in to take some pics. There was even a stereotypical Japanese couple with their tour guide wandering about the place.
I continued along the R62 only towards Ladismith but turned off a few kms before. My destination for the day was Koedoeskloof Country Lodge, a stunning spot owned by Eugune and Debra.
I setup camp and had a few drinks with them at the Dwars Bar. The view from the stoep was incredible and we enjoyed the sun setting on the mountains around us. For dinner I tucked into a delicious homemade burger.
Eugene and Debra were perfect hosts, and I recommend everybody stop by to check out Koedoeskloof, it rocks.
DAY 2
I awoke fairly early and lingered over a mug-sized espresso and rusks for breakfast before slowly breaking camp.
Eugene suggested some nice dirt roads for me to try before reaching Ladismith. I listened to his instructions and amazingly didn’t get lost. From Ladismith it was a quick jaunt along the tar towards Seweweekspoort.
I’ve only ridden seweweekspoort once before, from the opposite direction. I can’t even begin to describe it’s magnificence. It was a lovely ride and I took my time so that I could soak in the scenery.
I got to Laingsburg about lunchtime, filled up and continued north. What a beautiful desolate road all the way up to Sutherland.
I did not see a single car or person the entire afternoon. Absolute bliss.
There was only one sphincter tightening moment. I was cruising along at a decent pace when I came over blind rise, only to be confronted with a water crossing at the bottom of the rise. I jumped on the brakes and skidded down the hill, all the time scanning the water for a place to cross should I not be able to stop in time. Thankfully I did come to halt before the water, and I needn’t have worried it was an easy crossing.
But from earlier experiences I had promised myself to check the depth of water crossings before riding blindly across them.
I rolled into Sutherland at about 4.
The campsite was closed, so I stopped in at the info office and found a cheap place called Khoi Khoi or Khoi-San or something. It was super cheap, so I took it.
Now I don’t mind cheap and simple accommodation, but this place was pretty damn shitty. It is situated right next to a supermarket on the main road. I wasn’t expecting much from a R170 per night self-catering accommodation, but the place didn’t have any cutlery or crockery, not a single cup, yet there were a few battered pots and pans. What was the point of supplying stuff to cook with, but not eat with? There wasn’t even any soap in the bathroom.
I took a quick ride up to the observatory to enjoy the view, then went to the hotel for a couple of drinks. For dinner I ate my camping supplies in the guesthouse.
DAY 3
Today I continued north along the R354, and again I felt like the only person in the world. I didn’t encounter a single vehicle until I got to Calvinia, and I only saw one or two farmers at work in the martian landscape.
The day was nice and cool with only a few wisps of high altitude clouds. Perfect riding weather. Just perfect. I had originally planned on spending the night in Calvinia, but when I arrived at lunch time the dusty looking town looked pretty boring. I contemplated pushing on, and it was some other travelers at the petrol station that convinced me. A fully loaded 4x4 and trailer packed with an excited family were heading down to Afrika Burn. It was only another 120kms or so – I may as well arrive a day early. I had a quick lunch and pushed on.
I dunno what happened to that family cause I didn’t see another car again until I got to the Burn. Also the weather down on the plain was friggin hot, not nice and cool like on the escarpment. From about 20kms out I could see a trail of dust from cars coming from the other direction, and I was pretty glad I didn’t have to ride through that.
Although I did realize I would be facing that dust in a few days time.
AFRIKA BURN 2013
I’ve been to the event before (in 2009) and did a ride report about it, and even though I knew what to expect I was completely blown away.
I’ve been to a lot of concerts and festivals and parties in my time, but this was just some next level shit man!
First up our camp.
We were setup like kings in the quiet zone. We’d erected out camp along prime river side property facing the morning sun. We had unobstructed views across Tankwa.
Our camp consisted of approximately 22 people including kids. We had one large stretch tent that had our 20 seater dining room table, another large tent was used for our lounge and kitchen area, there were 3 fire places and 2 showers.
I spent the remainder of the day at our camping helping to pimp out our mutant vehicles. The Afrika Burn venue is so large that if you don’t have a bicycle you’re pretty much screwed and will spend most of your time walking vast distances across the plain. Mutant vehicles are allowed to cut across the plain and pretty much drive wherever they like.
DAY 4:
We finished decorating our vehicles, suited up and headed down to the DMV to get our vehicles registered… everything after that was a kaleidoscope of colours and music and wonderfully beautiful freaks of every kind.
Day 4 merged into Day 5 for more of the same.
A bit about the Burn!
SATURDAY (and then FRIDAY)
The main burn on Saturday night was of the installation known as the Sun Clan. A handful of us from the Porcupine camp went out early since we’d be working as fire marshals to help control the crowd when the burn started. Our duty was simply to keep people at the perimeter line. Because, of course, there is always some drunken asshole who strips down and wants to prove his manhood by streaking across an area he is not supposed to. It happens everywhere and Afrika Burn is no exception.
The burn was insane - the sculpture went up in a huge wall of flames and collapsed within minutes. It was pretty damn impressive though. However not as impressive and as wonderful as the burn the previous night.
On Friday night the main burn was of this giant egg that contained a life-sized T-Rex. But that was only after a giant animated 3D shark was set alight and swam through the night sky. Flaming bunnies boxed each other over a carrot. But the dinosaur, oh man, the dinosaur was so dam impressive as it chased a giant chicken-type car around in circles.
DAY 7 - THE RACE HOME
Sunday dawned with us all bleary eyed and sad that we had to pack up. Despite our condition we made good time breaking down the camp.
The day was still and without wind I knew the dust would just sit on the road. Every camper van I saw driving out ahead of us I knew would present an obstacle to me later on.
I had planned on riding in convoy with the rest of my crew – maybe that would save me from some of the dust on the desert road, but they insisted I should head out as soon as possible and try get out ahead of the masses.
Now I’ve always been skeptical of riding with goggles, but today I’d give it a try. I knew without them I’d be stopping every few minutes to clean my visor and glasses.
So when it was time to roll out I pulled my buff up over my mouth and nose and slipped the goggles over my helmet and assumed the attack position.
The ride was thrilling, exhilarating, scary and super fun. I traveled between 60 and 100 kms/h and felt like I was floating over the rocky highway. I noticed a couple of shredded tyres in the road, but never saw any car actually stopped so assumed it was from the drive in.
I felt like I was racing in the Dakar. Flying through clouds of dust, determined to overtake any car I came across, and double determined not to be overtaken by anybody else.
At one point I could feel my eyes getting gritty with dust, but I dared not stop for even a second. I did not want to have to overtake the same car twice.
What a ride!
Soon I was on the tar and took a short well-deserved break to have some water and clean my eyes.
From there it was a nice lazy ride home via Theronsburg, Michel and Bainskloof passes.
What a great week!
Monday mornings are not usually the best time for most people – me included. But today was different. I would only be going to work for a total of 15 minutes on my way out of town.
This was going to be my first bike and camping trip in many months and I was super excited to get going.
Originally I had planned to take more than 2 weeks off so I could attend the Wild Dog Bash in Namibia before heading down to the Tankwa Karoo for Afrika Burn, but a lack of available time and funds killed those plans.
So while most people headed into the city bowl for work I headed for the Du Toitskloof pass. I turned off the N1 at Worcester and made my way to Montagu and the beautiful R62
I’ve ridden this legendary road many times, but have never actually stopped off at Ronnies Sex Shop. Usually because when I stop to fill up at Barrydale I have something to eat, and then feel it’s pointless to get off the bike again 23 kms later.
I had a nice lazy lunch and beer at Ronnies, enjoying the day and watching the tourists roll in to take some pics. There was even a stereotypical Japanese couple with their tour guide wandering about the place.
I continued along the R62 only towards Ladismith but turned off a few kms before. My destination for the day was Koedoeskloof Country Lodge, a stunning spot owned by Eugune and Debra.
I setup camp and had a few drinks with them at the Dwars Bar. The view from the stoep was incredible and we enjoyed the sun setting on the mountains around us. For dinner I tucked into a delicious homemade burger.
Eugene and Debra were perfect hosts, and I recommend everybody stop by to check out Koedoeskloof, it rocks.
DAY 2
I awoke fairly early and lingered over a mug-sized espresso and rusks for breakfast before slowly breaking camp.
Eugene suggested some nice dirt roads for me to try before reaching Ladismith. I listened to his instructions and amazingly didn’t get lost. From Ladismith it was a quick jaunt along the tar towards Seweweekspoort.
I’ve only ridden seweweekspoort once before, from the opposite direction. I can’t even begin to describe it’s magnificence. It was a lovely ride and I took my time so that I could soak in the scenery.
I got to Laingsburg about lunchtime, filled up and continued north. What a beautiful desolate road all the way up to Sutherland.
I did not see a single car or person the entire afternoon. Absolute bliss.
There was only one sphincter tightening moment. I was cruising along at a decent pace when I came over blind rise, only to be confronted with a water crossing at the bottom of the rise. I jumped on the brakes and skidded down the hill, all the time scanning the water for a place to cross should I not be able to stop in time. Thankfully I did come to halt before the water, and I needn’t have worried it was an easy crossing.
But from earlier experiences I had promised myself to check the depth of water crossings before riding blindly across them.
I rolled into Sutherland at about 4.
The campsite was closed, so I stopped in at the info office and found a cheap place called Khoi Khoi or Khoi-San or something. It was super cheap, so I took it.
Now I don’t mind cheap and simple accommodation, but this place was pretty damn shitty. It is situated right next to a supermarket on the main road. I wasn’t expecting much from a R170 per night self-catering accommodation, but the place didn’t have any cutlery or crockery, not a single cup, yet there were a few battered pots and pans. What was the point of supplying stuff to cook with, but not eat with? There wasn’t even any soap in the bathroom.
I took a quick ride up to the observatory to enjoy the view, then went to the hotel for a couple of drinks. For dinner I ate my camping supplies in the guesthouse.
DAY 3
Today I continued north along the R354, and again I felt like the only person in the world. I didn’t encounter a single vehicle until I got to Calvinia, and I only saw one or two farmers at work in the martian landscape.
The day was nice and cool with only a few wisps of high altitude clouds. Perfect riding weather. Just perfect. I had originally planned on spending the night in Calvinia, but when I arrived at lunch time the dusty looking town looked pretty boring. I contemplated pushing on, and it was some other travelers at the petrol station that convinced me. A fully loaded 4x4 and trailer packed with an excited family were heading down to Afrika Burn. It was only another 120kms or so – I may as well arrive a day early. I had a quick lunch and pushed on.
I dunno what happened to that family cause I didn’t see another car again until I got to the Burn. Also the weather down on the plain was friggin hot, not nice and cool like on the escarpment. From about 20kms out I could see a trail of dust from cars coming from the other direction, and I was pretty glad I didn’t have to ride through that.
Although I did realize I would be facing that dust in a few days time.
AFRIKA BURN 2013
I’ve been to the event before (in 2009) and did a ride report about it, and even though I knew what to expect I was completely blown away.
I’ve been to a lot of concerts and festivals and parties in my time, but this was just some next level shit man!
First up our camp.
We were setup like kings in the quiet zone. We’d erected out camp along prime river side property facing the morning sun. We had unobstructed views across Tankwa.
Our camp consisted of approximately 22 people including kids. We had one large stretch tent that had our 20 seater dining room table, another large tent was used for our lounge and kitchen area, there were 3 fire places and 2 showers.
I spent the remainder of the day at our camping helping to pimp out our mutant vehicles. The Afrika Burn venue is so large that if you don’t have a bicycle you’re pretty much screwed and will spend most of your time walking vast distances across the plain. Mutant vehicles are allowed to cut across the plain and pretty much drive wherever they like.
DAY 4:
We finished decorating our vehicles, suited up and headed down to the DMV to get our vehicles registered… everything after that was a kaleidoscope of colours and music and wonderfully beautiful freaks of every kind.
Day 4 merged into Day 5 for more of the same.
A bit about the Burn!
SATURDAY (and then FRIDAY)
The main burn on Saturday night was of the installation known as the Sun Clan. A handful of us from the Porcupine camp went out early since we’d be working as fire marshals to help control the crowd when the burn started. Our duty was simply to keep people at the perimeter line. Because, of course, there is always some drunken asshole who strips down and wants to prove his manhood by streaking across an area he is not supposed to. It happens everywhere and Afrika Burn is no exception.
The burn was insane - the sculpture went up in a huge wall of flames and collapsed within minutes. It was pretty damn impressive though. However not as impressive and as wonderful as the burn the previous night.
On Friday night the main burn was of this giant egg that contained a life-sized T-Rex. But that was only after a giant animated 3D shark was set alight and swam through the night sky. Flaming bunnies boxed each other over a carrot. But the dinosaur, oh man, the dinosaur was so dam impressive as it chased a giant chicken-type car around in circles.
DAY 7 - THE RACE HOME
Sunday dawned with us all bleary eyed and sad that we had to pack up. Despite our condition we made good time breaking down the camp.
The day was still and without wind I knew the dust would just sit on the road. Every camper van I saw driving out ahead of us I knew would present an obstacle to me later on.
I had planned on riding in convoy with the rest of my crew – maybe that would save me from some of the dust on the desert road, but they insisted I should head out as soon as possible and try get out ahead of the masses.
Now I’ve always been skeptical of riding with goggles, but today I’d give it a try. I knew without them I’d be stopping every few minutes to clean my visor and glasses.
So when it was time to roll out I pulled my buff up over my mouth and nose and slipped the goggles over my helmet and assumed the attack position.
The ride was thrilling, exhilarating, scary and super fun. I traveled between 60 and 100 kms/h and felt like I was floating over the rocky highway. I noticed a couple of shredded tyres in the road, but never saw any car actually stopped so assumed it was from the drive in.
I felt like I was racing in the Dakar. Flying through clouds of dust, determined to overtake any car I came across, and double determined not to be overtaken by anybody else.
At one point I could feel my eyes getting gritty with dust, but I dared not stop for even a second. I did not want to have to overtake the same car twice.
What a ride!
Soon I was on the tar and took a short well-deserved break to have some water and clean my eyes.
From there it was a nice lazy ride home via Theronsburg, Michel and Bainskloof passes.
What a great week!
