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Author Topic: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE  (Read 18422 times)

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Online Bie

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #40 on: May 22, 2013, 09:44:02 am »
Nou waar kom die haas in die prentjie? Lekker ene Oom en Antie Vis. Altyd lekker om saam met julle te gaan toer via die RR. :thumleft:
Kom ons maak 'n stoffie.
 

Offline DRAZIL

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #41 on: May 22, 2013, 11:52:59 am »
enjoying your RR and photos :thumleft: :thumleft:
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Offline Vis Arend

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #42 on: May 22, 2013, 01:33:22 pm »
Nou waar kom die haas in die prentjie? Lekker ene Oom en Antie Vis. Altyd lekker om saam met julle te gaan toer via die RR. :thumleft:

Hasie kom baie later in die storie.   :biggrin:
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #43 on: May 22, 2013, 01:38:56 pm »
Day 9 Windhoek to Goanikontes (Swakopmund)

We had a wonderful time in Windhoek with family and friends, but it was time to be on the road again.  We, as usual, were early morning on the road again.

Today’s trip would be from Windhoek to Goainikontes via the Gamsberg pass, Kuiseb pass, Walvisbay, Swakopmund  and then down to the Moon landscape to Goanikontes.

We were on the same road as a few days ago, but this time with the original links and the bike behaved as I was used to.  My confidence was back and it was once again a pleasure to ride the big heavy laden scoot.  The sandy and loose rocky bits were a breeze. 




We entered Gamsberg pass and it was good to see this pass after about 20 odd years.  Memories in my younger days came back to me and I enjoyed every moment in the pass.








Once again, what a lovely road to ride.










We bought some extras in Windhoek and added to the load.


Once out of the Gamsberg Pass, it was on the main road to Kuiseb towards Walvisbay.  You could see this road is in places trampled by traffic.




This looks like a good camping or overnight spot, maybe next time.


Kuiseb river




My wife’s artistic side


Nice place for a nap.




After Kuiseb river you will get this last shady piece, thereafter there is miles and miles of nothing until Walvis Bay.


This is the nothing I am talking about.


This is apparently one of the oldest living fossil plant, in the desert where you will find nothing else.  It is just amazing.






We reached Walvisbay with the temperature in the 40’s, these guys were having a East wind to take note off.  They call it “Oos weer”, die wind blowing strait from the desert.
We filled up with petrol in Walvis and took a leisure ride to the lagoon.




On our way to Goanikontes.


The moon landscape.




We did not buy any supplies in Walvis or Swakopmund, as we thought that we would get it at Goanikontes.  Now you obviously know what happened to thought.  The lady at reception was kind enough to supplies us with whatever ice and wood they had left.  That is all that they could help us with.  We had no bread and had to make our own.


Our camping spot for the night.


We were busy with our own business when I heard the sound of motorbikes arriving, and it was no other than Road Hog and his good friend Roberto and wife Margaret.   They saw us in Walvisbaai while they had a braai and decided to visit us at Goanokontes.
Margaret quickly organized some cake from her friends at Goanikontes. 


After a lekker kuier it was time for them to depart, Roberto and wife to Swakopmund and Road Hog to Walvisbaai.  It was really a nice gesture from them to pay us a visit.  Thanks guys.
Margaret on her 800.


Roberto on his KTM


It was time for the roosterkoek


Kudu steaks giving to us by my heavy (swear).


Food fit for a king.



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Offline wilddoc

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #44 on: May 22, 2013, 01:39:21 pm »
Ek haal my hoed af vir julle.Two up en vol gelaai deur daai sand.Goed gedoen.
Ek was nou pas deur Namibie en het gesukkel met swaar gelaaide bike en die middelmannetjie.
Mooi fotos
 

Offline zawillow

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #45 on: May 22, 2013, 02:28:12 pm »
 :happy1:  :happy1:
 

Offline Beemer Mike

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #46 on: May 22, 2013, 02:33:22 pm »
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #47 on: May 22, 2013, 02:48:30 pm »
Read a book many many years ago about two German geologists, Hermann Korn and Henno Martin who hid in the Namib somewhere around the Kuiseb river during WW ll. Have no idea exactly where this was, but you mentioning the Kuiseb brought it to mind. Was a fascinating story of all the hardships they endured while waiting out the war in order to prevent capture. I remember them building a vehicle trap in the sand with a stone that would flip up, puncturing a the vehicle's sump in order to keep vehicles out of the area. Also how their supplies ran low and they hunted an Eland with a 9mm parrabellum. Think the book was called sheltering desert or something along those lines. Anyone with more info on where they spent their time and maybe even a copy of the book to re-read?
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #48 on: May 22, 2013, 03:03:39 pm »
Gonna enjoy this one!  :thumleft:
 

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #49 on: May 22, 2013, 03:05:56 pm »
Read a book many many years ago about two German geologists, Hermann Korn and Henno Martin who hid in the Namib somewhere around the Kuiseb river during WW ll. Have no idea exactly where this was, but you mentioning the Kuiseb brought it to mind. Was a fascinating story of all the hardships they endured while waiting out the war in order to prevent capture. I remember them building a vehicle trap in the sand with a stone that would flip up, puncturing a the vehicle's sump in order to keep vehicles out of the area. Also how their supplies ran low and they hunted an Eland with a 9mm parrabellum. Think the book was called sheltering desert or something along those lines. Anyone with more info on where they spent their time and maybe even a copy of the book to re-read?


The book was called "The Sheltering Desert",  or 'Flucht in die Namib (german spelling not great), they hid in the Naukluft mountains. They are also credited with mapping out the Naukluft Nappe Complex while hiding there. They had a dog called Otto, why Otto because you could spell it the same from either end!  :imaposer:

I had a copy but passed it on. if you know somebody at UPE, maybe they can get you a copy on loan from the Geology dept?

hijack Off
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #50 on: May 22, 2013, 03:11:49 pm »
Sorry for the second hijack Oom Vis. Got the book (The sheltering desert) online and currently downloading it. Last read it as a kid.  :thumleft:
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #51 on: May 22, 2013, 03:18:32 pm »
Sorry for the second hijack Oom Vis. Got the book (The sheltering desert) online and currently downloading it. Last read it as a kid.  :thumleft:
Maak my 'n copy, seblief.   :thumleft:

Ek haal my hoed af vir julle.Two up en vol gelaai deur daai sand.Goed gedoen.
Ek was nou pas deur Namibie en het gesukkel met swaar gelaaide bike en die middelmannetjie.
Mooi fotos

Daai was nog OK, die k@k het later gekom.   :eek7:  Hou die spasie dop.
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #52 on: May 22, 2013, 03:29:56 pm »
Day 10 Goanikontes to Ugab river Rhino Camp.

Today’s drive is only a distance of about 280km.  The route will be to Swakopmund, along the coast to Henties Bay, further up north to almost mile 108 where we will take the D2303 to the Ugab river.  We are now entering a harsh and rugged area where no people live, the climate is too arid for domestic stock or crop farming.  Here one needs to be self sufficient for 2 or 3 days, you need to be prepared for the worst.
Swakopmund will be the 1st stop for some meat supplies, smoked meat to last 2 or 3 days, then Henties Bay for water and the rest of the supplies.  Rhino camp has no drinking water, the only other place for drinking water will be at Twyfelfontein that could be another day or two further.

Leaving Goanikontes with the sun rising.
 

The pool at Goanikontes








This thorn went right through my slops into my foot, I managed to pull it out, but it burned like hell.






On the road again, leaving the Kahn River and Goanikontes behind us.




We stopped in Swakop to get some smoked meat and proceeded to Hentiesbay.
Typical salt roads.


A wreck between Swakop and Henties.


In Henties we stopped for our last supplies, water, water and water.  We bought as much as we could carry.
Then it was on to Mile 105 (D2303)
It was around 10 in the morning and was already boiling hot.  The East wind was pumping.


A salt lake next to the road.








Once on the D2303 towards Ugab River, the road became very sandy, rocky and corrugated.  I deflated the tyres and took it slow, speed was not an option.  And it was hot, very hot.


Welwitschia plant
“It is one of the few things on Earth that can truly claim to be one of a kind. There really is nothing like it.
An adult welwitschia consists of two leaves, a stem base and roots. That is all! Its two permanent leaves are unique in the plant kingdom. They are the original leaves from when the plant was a seedling, and they just continue to grow and are never shed. They are leathery, broad, strap-shaped and they lie on the ground becoming torn to ribbons and tattered with age. The stem is low, woody, hollowed-out, obconical in shape and sturdy. It grows to about 500 mm in height. The largest recorded specimen is in the Messum Mountains and is 1.8 m high, and another on the Welwitschia Flats near the Swakop River is 1.2 m tall and 8.7 m wide. Carbon dating tells us that on average, welwitschias are 500-600 years old, although some of the larger specimens are thought to be 2000 years old. Their estimated lifespan is 400 to 1500 years. Growth occurs annually during the summer months.
The sexes are separate, i.e. male plants and female plants. The male cones are salmon-coloured, small, oblong cone-like structures, and the female cones are blue-green, larger and more tapering. At Kirstenbosch, they flower from midsummer to autumn. The male flower has a sterile, modified pistil-like structure, which exudes nectar (50% sugar content) from a modified stigma-like structure. The female cone has exposed stigmas and also produces a nectar droplet.”




Shaded trees were few and far in between.  We did not stop for long periods.  We kept on moving as that was the only way to get some sort of breeze.  We were also preserving our water, we knew that we would need it the following day.






To be continued..........

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #53 on: May 22, 2013, 03:32:59 pm »
Once you start to see this granite type koppie you know you are now entering the Ugab region.  We were getting closer to the Ugab River.












The Rhino camp in the Ugab River.




Imagine staying up in those little huts, just to be safe from the desert elephant.


We arrived at the Rhino camp exhausted, it was very hot.  The temperature was around 46 /47 degrees.  We used quite a bit of our water supplies, but we still felt a bit dehydrated.  We waited until it was cooler before we started to unpack and pitched tent.  In the meantime we took one cold shower after the other.  In between showers we soaked the towels and hanged it over our heads, which also seemed to help a bit.


Info of Ugab Base Camp.
“Ugab Base Camp is situated along the south bank of the mighty Ugab River, within site of the Brandberg Mountain, Namibia’s highest mountain.
Ugab Base Camp also maintains a small education centre for passing tourists as well as a self-catering campground with showers and toilets. From Ugab Base Camp, SRT trackers access rhinos in the southern portion of their Kunene range including the elusive handful ranging across Doro !Nawas, Twyfelfontein-Uibasen, Sorris Sorris and Tsiseb Conservancies.
Bernd and Erica Brell, SRT’s Directors of Monitoring and Patrols and Administration & Accounting, respectively, call Ugab Base Camp home while in the field.
Save the Rhino Trust is a non-profit organisation (Welfare Organisation No 53) and the camping fees we receive are effectively a donation towards the Trust.
• The campsite is remote and rustic - 4 x 4 needed to get there.
• Ugab River Campsite rate is N$ 60 per person per night. There is no entrance fee.
• Distance from Swakopmund to Campsite: approx 214 km.
• Directions from Swakopmund: On the C34 travel 67 km to Henties Bay, then a further 46 km to the Cape Cross turnoff. Continue on the C34 for a further 30 km to the D2303 turnoff on right. From the turnoff to the campsite is a further 71 km.
• Directions from campsite to Uis: From the campsite, it's 10km to the turnoff and another 116 km to Uis.
• Campers must be self-sufficient with regard to camping equipment, food, drinking water and firewood (some people drink the water but it is brackish so most prefer to take their own bottled water).
• No rhino tracking can be done from the Ugab River campsite.
• The campsite has communal ablutions - showers heated by a "donkey" (lit by camp staff) and long drop toilets.
• There is no cellphone reception at the campsite.
• There is an info centre with information displays about the area and the work of Save the Rhino Trust.
• There is also a small shop selling SRT T shirts, peak caps and other curios.
• Some sites are reed fenced off; others are not.
• Occasionally, elephant visit the campsite.
• Tourists may be very lucky and see a black rhino from their vehicle.

Our camp and surroundings.










The shower became our friend




We made a type of stew from the leftover kudu steaks from the previous night.


 



It cooled of a tiny bit during the night, so we got a good night’s rest.  We were ready for the following day, so we hoped.???????
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Offline J-mo

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #54 on: May 22, 2013, 04:14:01 pm »
Lekker RR hierdie Vis. Kan nie wag vir die res. :thumleft:   :happy1:
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #55 on: May 22, 2013, 04:20:57 pm »


It cooled of a tiny bit during the night, so we got a good night’s rest.  We were ready for the following day, so we hoped.???????


Wag in spanning!!!!
Dankie vir die awesome RR  :thumleft:


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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #56 on: May 22, 2013, 05:46:50 pm »
Read a book many many years ago about two German geologists, Hermann Korn and Henno Martin who hid in the Namib somewhere around the Kuiseb river during WW ll. Have no idea exactly where this was, but you mentioning the Kuiseb brought it to mind. Was a fascinating story of all the hardships they endured while waiting out the war in order to prevent capture. I remember them building a vehicle trap in the sand with a stone that would flip up, puncturing a the vehicle's sump in order to keep vehicles out of the area. Also how their supplies ran low and they hunted an Eland with a 9mm parrabellum. Think the book was called sheltering desert or something along those lines. Anyone with more info on where they spent their time and maybe even a copy of the book to re-read?

It was in the Kuiseb Canyon
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Offline Vis Arend

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #57 on: May 22, 2013, 06:17:33 pm »
Day 11 Ugab River to Aba Hoab

BENTEN introduced us to this area years ago.  We did the Ugab river with 4X4’s from the Kamanjab side to the Rhino camp and we saw herds of elephants in the river.  It was a spectacular sight to see these beasts in the wild. We however never got to the Gai Ais fountain and to see the fountain was always on my bucket list.  We hoped to see some elephants again and in visiting the fountain we also hoped to see the ever elusive desert rhino.  Lady luck might just be on our side today.   

The route was a simple one, from Ugab river we would follow the tracks to Gai Ais fountain, make a U-turn and proceed with the tracks to Doris Crater and eventually/hopefully reach the Burnt Mountain and the Organ pipes before Twyfelfontein and then to Aba Huab.  I think my GPS showed a distance of 147km.  Easy you would think, I thought so too.
The route


We left as early as we could.  We wanted to get as far as possible while it was still cool.


Crossing the Ugab River




Leaving the Ugab into the unknown.






We were going nicely along at a steady 50-60km/h.


  Oops, until the 1st obstacle.




Nothing that could not be overcome, the small obstacle were negotiated within a minute or two, nothing serious.
 

Then, the going got slower and slower and slower.  The track enters a valley of cut and jagged rock.  Torn, ripped and mangled earth protruding from the sand.  We crawled along like feeble insects over, through and around rock, rock and more rock.  They are every shape and size. 


But we were moving, and that is what counts.










It was hard work with the fully loaded S10, the tracks were very rocky, sandy and heavy corrugated at places, you could never get up to a decent speed.  The scenery was well worth it though.




We stopped at this rock formation for a rest.  It was 08:30 and I was already perspiring.  We took sips from our water every 15 – 20 minutes.  The temp was already at 38 degrees.  The bikes temp was running in the 100’s with the fan coming on at 106, the temp will keep climbing with the fan on to 109 and then come down to 99, just to go up again to 106, fan running, 109 down to 99, up to……….so it kept on and on and on.










To be continued........
No matter how slow you go, you're still lapping everybody on the the couch
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Offline JMOL

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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #58 on: May 22, 2013, 07:09:51 pm »
Uit die boonste rakke!!!

Respek aan julle - julle mag maar  :thumleft:
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Re: IN FLIGHT WITH THE FISH EAGLES – NAMIBIA, BOSTWANA, ZIMBABWE
« Reply #59 on: May 22, 2013, 07:13:19 pm »
Awesome report  :thumleft: :thumleft:
Thanks for posting
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