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Offline Ianbeen

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #260 on: August 04, 2014, 12:48:56 pm »
BTW was your HP2 parked outside Flying Brick in Paarden Island on Saturday. Saw one just like your avatar.
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Offline Pleco

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #261 on: August 04, 2014, 12:50:42 pm »
At least you got the colour coding sorted  ;) Just remember the big end takes a red and blue shell. One for push and one for pull on the crank.

What is the gap on your rings? I had 1.5mm play too much. so about 0.5mm for every 50k kms

Crank should still measure up to factory specs. Good time to replace the cam chains and oil pump.

I must still pop in. Sort of moved in on my last RSA visit.
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Offline Pleco

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #262 on: August 04, 2014, 12:53:31 pm »
BTW was your HP2 parked outside Flying Brick in Paarden Island on Saturday. Saw one just like your avatar.

I hope not  :o Unless the wife is riding it around town.

I have the HPN tanks on mine too.

In the DRC at the moment unfortunately. back end of the month. :ricky:
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Offline Ianbeen

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #263 on: August 04, 2014, 01:20:21 pm »
At least you got the colour coding sorted  ;) Just remember the big end takes a red and blue shell. One for push and one for pull on the crank.

What is the gap on your rings? I had 1.5mm play too much. so about 0.5mm for every 50k kms

Crank should still measure up to factory specs. Good time to replace the cam chains and oil pump.

I must still pop in. Sort of moved in on my last RSA visit.

I've just ordered the bearings from the agents. They have everything in stock except the big end bolts. My oil pump has virtually no score marks in it. The original machining marks on the pump are still very visible so I am going to tata ma chance with that. I laid the chains flat to push and pull checking for signs of stretching...nothing.

I fitted one top ring in to check 0.3mm. My bike has 92000kms. Yes I did order the red and blue for big ends. Thank goodness for this thread of yours. I would never have known.
« Last Edit: August 04, 2014, 01:22:31 pm by Ianbeen »
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Offline Ianbeen

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #264 on: August 04, 2014, 01:25:49 pm »
Ianb what is the mileage on your 1200?

92000Kms
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Offline Pleco

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #265 on: August 04, 2014, 03:26:03 pm »
At least you got the colour coding sorted  ;) Just remember the big end takes a red and blue shell. One for push and one for pull on the crank.

What is the gap on your rings? I had 1.5mm play too much. so about 0.5mm for every 50k kms

Crank should still measure up to factory specs. Good time to replace the cam chains and oil pump.

I must still pop in. Sort of moved in on my last RSA visit.

I've just ordered the bearings from the agents. They have everything in stock except the big end bolts. My oil pump has virtually no score marks in it. The original machining marks on the pump are still very visible so I am going to tata ma chance with that. I laid the chains flat to push and pull checking for signs of stretching...nothing.

I fitted one top ring in to check 0.3mm. My bike has 92000kms. Yes I did order the red and blue for big ends. Thank goodness for this thread of yours. I would never have known.

Jip I found out some things the hard way.

I could not find anything on the stretch limits on the cam chains. So I put mine back the first time. Problem is that you torque the cam bolts against the chain, which in my case just stretched it that last little bit. When I got the new set, what I did notice is that the sideway movements were a lot less on the new ones than the old ones. But as per above, the stretched ones cause the tensioner to fall in and cause all kinds of havoc.

The chains were not that expensive, and you can still get to the oil pump in the future without splitting the casing. Not so with the chains.

You did read the part about the kink that the chain makes behind the inside sprocket if you don't look before putting it all together. That was a bastard. :eek7:
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Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #266 on: August 04, 2014, 03:38:09 pm »
Ianb what is the mileage on your 1200?

92000Kms
Ian could you pse start a fred about your engine rebuild.
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Offline Pleco

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #267 on: August 04, 2014, 03:45:17 pm »
Ianb what is the mileage on your 1200?

92000Kms
Ian could you pse start a fred about your engine rebuild.
We all learn something along the way as we have with this one of Pleco.


Yes please, then I can bother you and chirp in from the side.  :lamer: Jou beurt is jou beurt  :lol8:
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Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #268 on: August 04, 2014, 03:48:11 pm »
O and one last question: how long have you had the 1200 and what oil did you use?
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Offline Ianbeen

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #269 on: August 04, 2014, 05:04:54 pm »
O and one last question: how long have you had the 1200 and what oil did you use?

The k@k part is I got it on 80000. I always used Castrol Magnatech in my Yamaha XJR1300 from 15 000 to 50 000 kms without a glitch so I continued to use it in the bmw. I noticed that noise when I bought the bike but I thought it was normal. It just got  bit louder and thats why I stopped riding it 2 months ago.
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Offline ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #270 on: August 04, 2014, 05:08:48 pm »
O and one last question: how long have you had the 1200 and what oil did you use?

The k@k part is I got it on 80000. I always used Castrol Magnatech in my Yamaha XJR1300 from 15 000 to 50 000 kms without a glitch so I continued to use it in the bmw. I noticed that noise when I bought the bike but I thought it was normal. It just got  bit louder and thats why I stopped riding it 2 months ago.
:eek7: :o :( :biggrin:
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Offline Ianbeen

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Re: BMW 1200GS engine rebuild
« Reply #271 on: August 28, 2014, 04:36:50 pm »
If you lay the chain flat on the table and push and pull the chain in a stretching and compressing motion, you will be able to see if there is play in the links,if you place your hands about 100mm apart you will get a good indication of how much play there is over that length of chain.
  Also try ,with the chain stretched out on the table ,see how much you can bend (lightly)the chain over the length of the chain,if you know what I mean .
You will see if it is worn that way.
 It could very possibly be that the oil gallery to that piston -tensioner is blocked with the amount of silicone you have on there, follow the route the oil takes from the oil pump to the tensioner and make sure it is clear, blow with airline and make sure the air comes out the other side. The circled area looks like it could be blocked up with silicone ? and although I donít know the specific engine ,that looks like it could be the oil gallery that feeds oil to you hydraulic chain tensioner ? and cylinder head.
After studying all your pics, I am sure this is the timing chain problem,no oil to the tensioner ,resulting in the chain to run slack ,and then lead to the hanfull of parts you just picked up in your cranck case  :o
 Also check if your oil pressure relieve valve is not stuck in the open position from all the grid from the welding that was in the system.
 I appreciate the fact that you are trying to do the job yourself due to financial strain ,we have all been there .
The bottom line is that you have to work systematically ,take you time and double check everything you do.Cleanliness is VERY important
I donít know how the agents do their parts thing ,but I would personally ,looking at your crank ,buy an under size set of big ends ,take that and the crank to a GOOD automotive engineering shop ,let them fit the bearing to the con-rods and grind the crank to fit . That would be the safest option.
I hope you are replacing the damaged con-rod as well ?
Now would be a good time to at least de-coke your cylinder heads,clean all the carbon of the ports. grind the valves and renew the valve stem seals . Check for excessive valve stem ply at this stage as well.....
I hope you get this motor sorted .
Regards
Clem

Just as a matter of interest. I am busy with my gs at the moment and after studying this thread intensively I paid particular attention to these channels. When I opened up mine they were filled with factory sealant. I rechecked and found that they are not in fact oil channels. The tensioners get oil from the lower cyilinder head stud/bolt. The one that has a locating dowel....so not sure why they would put those channels in as they lead to nowhere... :)
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