BALI with my BABY ~ 2013

[wildside]

                              My baby is my delightful 20 year old daughter, Roxy!



I had the privilege of visiting both my children in Indonesia for the month of July. They have both been living in Bali, the Island of the Gods, for nearly 2 years now. One evening we decided that it was a good idea to do a road trip through Bali to see some sights. The only form of transport we had were scooters.
 I borrowed my nieces Scoopy (Honda), as she was on holiday back in SA and Roxy had her own Fino Classic . We pulled out a map and plotted a quick route up north to Bedugul to visit the 3 lakes and include a short hike to the Munduk Waterfall. We would then head off east towards Mount Agung, Bali’s most sacred mountain, for greater things.

Below is a very basic map and directions



Unfortunately, my son Calvin didn’t want to join us as he had business to take care of (so he says  )….so it was just my Baby and I.

Early Thursday morning, loaded with only our backpacks, we went to fill up with fuel.








 Petrol was only R6.50 a litre and our little tanks could only take up to 4 litres at a time. All along the narrow roads you will find little shanty shops selling fuel in bottles for R7 a litre. So fuel was always available.



It was with great excitement that we set off on our scooter adventure through the narrow and busy streets of Kerobokan. Roxy was leading the way as she was using the GPS on her Samsung phone . It took all my courage to negotiate the hectic traffic as one has to bob and weave in and out of the traffic in order to make some progress. Keeping up with Roxy was a bit of a challenge at times as she had mastered the art of riding with the Balinese folk and their lack of road rules.

What I found most amazing here was the absence of road rage. At times there would be such congestion but riders were patient and as soon as there was a gap they would take it. If there were no pedestrians on the sidewalk scooters would promptly use this as an access. The hooting one heard was merely to warn others that a rider was coming past or to let folk coming from a side road know that a scooter was coming along.

 







STREET CEREMONIES


RIDING ON THE PAVEMENTS!


Nervously I watched from behind as Roxy handled her GPS with one hand and the scooter with the other and heaven only knows her eyes weren’t always on the road!!. There were sections of very straight road but our maximum speed was only about 80 km/hr. We passed by acres of newly planted rice paddies accommodating plenty of ducks that were enjoying their early morning dip and dabble.











It felt surreal riding behind Roxy and thinking that we were actually partaking in a mother/daughter scooter adventure ride half way across the world from home….not many Moms get to boast about this. I think I had a permanent grin on my face.

There were many little villages lining the road causing traffic  to become congested and it requires a lot of concentration to overtake – on the left or the right hand side….whichever is easiest, avoid oncoming traffic, dogs, pedestrians, potholes and keeping up with Roxy.

There are some interesting sights alongside the road with all the open shops displaying their colourful ware, lovely stone carvings depicting the various buddah statues, Praying ladies, furniture, wooden carvings, glassware, batik fabrics, clothing, jewelry, motorbike shops….all tempting the tourist.

[wildside]

As we made progress we could feel the air cooling down and became aware that we were gradually going up an incline. We arrived in Badugal, only about 63 km from home, at about 10.30 am. There is a beautiful lake, Danau Bratan, that lies in the lee of Mount Catur (2096m). It is on this lake shore that you will find the temple of Pura Ulun Danua Bratan….where the lake and its Goddess are worshipped.
We stopped for a rest and to warm up with hot chocolate at one of the lakeside hotels.











We were now heading up another 6km of windy, twisty roads out of the ancient volcanic crater. We had to contend with sharp hairpin bends and had to have our wits about us as tourist buses, taxis, scooters and pedestrians were all on their own mission. We stopped at another viewpoint to admire the view and strawberry farms below.









The rest of the ride made for a very picturesque trip as we rode through some lush bamboo forests, palms and natural vegetation. The higher we got the colder it got. At the top of the ridge we turned left and travelled west along the ridge of the crater catching the occasional glimpse of Lake Buyan down below and further to the right was Lake Tamblingan. This whole area is surrounded by lush green forests.

[wildside]

We continued for another 2 km and started to head down a steep narrow little road away from the lakes to look for the entrance to the waterfall. It drops down drastically through coffee plantations and clove trees. The brakes on my scooter were a bit suspect and when applied made a terrible scraping noise.
 On several occasions I imagined myself having to put my feet out onto the road and drag them on the tarmac behind me to slow me down – just as my playschool kids used to do on their little black scooters going down my drive way. After a few more tight twists and turns we came across an insignificant little sign. It cost us R5 for parking, entrance and a stick. The walk down was beautiful and scenic and only took us about half an hour to get there.
















COFFEE BERRIES














After clicking away many photos and enjoying a cup of cinnamon tea we decided It was time to head back up to the scooters and down the mountain  and travel southwards towards the charming little town of Ubud, Bali’s cultural hub. Fortunately Roxy had her GPS as it allowed us the opportunity to ride through some narrow, potholed and interesting little back roads, passing many poor villages, rice paddies and forest areas. Alongside most of the roads are open concrete gutters that allow waste water and litter to run freely and fortunately we never ended up in one of these ditches.











Ubud was alive with tourists. It’s an interesting little town that boasts a Monkey Forest Sanctuary, where a resident troupe of over a hundred macaque monkeys are free to roam as they please and lots of little interesting shops and restaurants. My best was the huge market, both indoors and outdoors.
Roxy found us wonderful, clean accommodation at Gerhana Sari, down an insignificant little alley in the middle of town. The back of this alley opens up to a pretty well kept garden of Eden full of vines, stag horns, orchids, palms and koi ponds. The owners were most welcoming and served us coffee, tea and a flask of hot water. This was available throughout the day and night.

[wildside]

Soon after we settled in we went in search of the Yoga Barn to make arrangements for some yoga classes. We did some shopping along Jalan (road) Monkey Forest and enjoyed a divine dinner at Tutmak, on the corner of the soccer field. My favorite dish was Mie Goreng – veg and chicken on fried noodles, topped with a fried egg…a typical Indonesian meal.







Feeling satisfied and exhausted we took a slow walk back to our room for a much needed sleep.

Friday morning we were up bright and early and enjoyed a delicious fruity breakfast which was served to us on the verandah.

I was finally getting the opportunity to visit the ‘Hanging Gardens’….about 20 km north of Ubud. This resort has, apparently, been listed as one of the 10 best places to visit. I had been encouraging my kids to visit the ‘Hanging Gardens’ during their stay in Bali but that they weren’t interested. I had googled it back home and was shocked at how expensive it was but decided it was still a place to visit.
 Well…today was the day. Rox got the directions on her GPS and off we went. It was such a beautiful ride and after about 40 minutes we passed a temple and started riding down a steep windy road through dense forest, crossed over a river and started working our way back up out of the valley. A sharp left turn at the top lead us along a narrow, insignificant little lane…no sign posts…we thought we might be lost.
   


We eventually descended a steep driveway into a car park and were once again overcome by the magnificent display of vegetation.

[JVR]

Thanx......Nice.

[JonW]

Gee Karen that was soooooo awesome.

I bet Roxy doesn't struggle to find boyfriends 

[Onetime]

Thanks for sharing.

[Cave Girl]

Thanks for sharing now all I want to do is go live in bali

[AlexG]

What amazing Photos Wildside  I would give my right arm to do a trip like that!

[whitedelight]

Nice to see familiar places again,I would love to go back and explore some more. Thanks for the RR and the great pics

[Man from Nam]

 Thanks for sharing, nice RR and beautiful pics

[Wooly Bugger]

Awesome stuff!

[wildside]

We were welcomed by friendly staff at reception and were offered the funicular (a cable car running up and down the mountain slope) which would take us down to the next level. The whole resort is built on various levels sloping down the hillside and blending into the vegetation. But looking out and down the steps at the lush scenery we decided a walk down would be a better option. The second level was the formal restaurant and it had a stunning view of the two infinity pools down below and the forest and temple beyond.












YOU CAN SEE THE TEMPLE AT THE TOP RIGHT HAND CORNER.




We continued down another level to the deck. We met up with two young Australians who informed us that it cost $20 (R200) to swim!!! The attraction here was to swim to the edge of the pool and be photographed. I threw caution to the wind and paid for Roxy to have a swim…we were supplied with a towel and could make use of the recliners on the deck. Roxy was fortunate enough to be wearing something that resembled a costume and in she went.








Ordering something to drink was also an eye opener, 380ml water =R35, tin of Coke=R40, glass of wine=R75 !!!!   Our one and only coke lasted us a looong time.  We spent a couple of hours relaxing and chatting to some of the other day visitors before heading off back to Ubud.


LOOKING ACROSS THE VALLEY TO THE HANGING GARDENS.




Back in busy Ubud we visited the ever popular market where bartering has to take place as they are all offering their ‘best price’.











That evening we enjoyed some Bali culture and went along to the Ubud Kelod Community Hall to see the Traditional Barong & Legong Dance.

[cloudgazer]

wow, what an awesome adventure.

such an incredible thing to share with your kid.

magical.

[Hentie @ Riders]

Awesome 

[IceCreamMan]

Wow...thanks for taking the time to post this...

*like*

[Goose]

STUNNING - easily one of the best and most refreshing ride reports I've seen in a long time..... the colours and scenery is fantastic - thanks for taking the time and making the effort to allow us to share your adventure!!   

[wildside]

Saturday morning found us zooting around on our scooters once again, heading towards the Yoga Barn where we spent a bit of energy doing an hour and a half of yoga. Feeling relaxed and hungry we rode back into town to find some lunch and get snacks for the following days hike.















HAVING A REST BEFORE SETTING OFF AGAIN.




It was 1.30 pm when we set of in easterly direction for the little village of Selat, about a two and a half hour ride away, once again along narrow, windy lanes that would take us up towards the mountain. I know I keep harping on about how spectacular the scenery was but I just couldn’t get enough of the lush green vegetation and the beautiful maintained rice terraces. At most big intersections in the bigger towns there are some fascinating statues depicting various Gods and evil characters.















Arriving in Selat was a bit of a shock. It was a very basic and small village with nothing appealing to the traveller. Initially we weren’t even sure if this was the right place.  Being the only westerners, and girls at that, we stood out a bit.
We were looking for some sort of accommodation and as we hadn’t done much research on this place we simply assumed that because it was the closest village to Mount Agung and marks the turn-off to Pura Pasar Agung , one of the nine directional temples of Bali, we wouldn’t have a problem.
We rode up and down for several kilometers looking for a place to stay and eventually I spotted a little black and white hand painted sign with an arrow pointing in the direction of a narrow and grubby little gravel road that weaved through some old buildings and out into the country side. After a few kilometers we stopped and asked one of the locals if this was the way to the Great Mountain View Villa…..yes, we were on the right road….a very back road I might add.




Eventually we arrived at a lovely resort offering stunning views of rice paddies and the mountain surrounded by clouds in the background. After arranging accommodation and a guide to take us hiking up the mountain we settled down to an early dinner and soaked up the beauty around us. Roxy decided that 6.15 pm was a good time to go to bed as we had an early start the next morning. It was a bit confusing as to who was the parent here 












We awoke at 1.00 am and got ourselves ready for the great hike. Our guide arrived at 1.30am to take us to the Pura Pasar Agung, to ensure that we reach the top of the mountain by sunrise. It was pitch black and cold as we set off on our scooters, following our guide,  towards Selat and from there rode north up a 10 km steep climb  that weaved through bamboo stands, acacia forests and deep larva carved gorges.

It was a relief to finally arrive at the car park of the temple, the starting point of our hike, as it had rained most of the way and with the scooters faint headlights and wet windy roads riding was a bit stressful. We weren’t feeling as enthusiastic about this hike as we were the previous day .






 Gunung Agung, the highest Balinese peak, rising 3142m above sea level, is also known as the spiritual centre of the island. It’s at least a 3 hour climb with an ascent of almost 2000m from the temple. The track initially passed through forest, ascending onto bare steep rock. It was dark, cold and wet as we started our slow pace. It was a continuous slog upwards along a wet and slippery path, using a dull headlight and no rain jackets which left us feeling a bit bedraggled and disheartened.
 I regard myself as being a fairly fit person but this hike was a hectic challenge and thanks to Roxy’s encouragement and our guides confidence in us we made it to the summit before sunrise where we joined various other groups who had set off ahead of us. I must add that a few younger people didn’t make it and turned back while others waited on the side of the mountain.
By the time we reached the top we were bitterly cold as we were dressed in inappropriate clothing…talk about not having AGATT !!!!.

 We really did underestimate this mountain but were rewarded with an awesome sunrise way above the clouds with Bali far below them.










LOOKING DOWN INTO THE VOLCANIC CRATER.

[J-dog]

 

[wildside]

We spent about an hour up on the summit before heading back down....which was also a challenge.


















From here we had to find our way back to the resort where we packed up and set off for home ….another 3 hour ride heading in a southerly direction via Sideman, once again soaking up the beauty around us. Being tired, negotiating the narrow roads and zipping in and out of the convoy of construction lorries and avoiding  oncoming traffic left us feeling a bit frazzled.






Needless to say we were exhausted and humourless by the time we got home that afternoon. Only once the stiffness in the quads and calves and the pain in the toes subsided could I look back at this amazing scooter adventure and think…. WOW…..THAT WAS AN AWESOME ADVENTURE!


 In closing..…although this isn’t your typical S.A. adventure riding experience it was still as exciting as anything I’ve done on a motorbike but this time I was fortunate enough to do it with my fun loving daughter in a far away country.
Hope you enjoyed reading the RR.