TE 610 General Maintenance

[sidetrack]

I think the Castrol Power1 was R89 per litre at the local Midas.

Yep I saw it's only about R20 a liter more expensive than Actevo so I bought some and put it in my bike, it sounds the same 

Is that a bad thing?

Secretly hoping to get the motor quieter, it has always had the irritating ticking noise I want to get rid off. From reading it sounds like a Husky thing but I want it gone.

[Straatkat]

Jaques, you can do even better than that, Autozone is only R85 for Castrol Power1, or you can do much worse and buy some from Chaintech @R165!!!

[alanB]

I think the Castrol Power1 was R89 per litre at the local Midas.

Yep I saw it's only about R20 a liter more expensive than Actevo so I bought some and put it in my bike, it sounds the same 

Is that a bad thing?

Secretly hoping to get the motor quieter, it has always had the irritating ticking noise I want to get rid off. From reading it sounds like a Husky thing but I want it gone.

Ja look I think they have a certain agricultural aspect that I don't think can be denied 

[sidetrack]

I think the Castrol Power1 was R89 per litre at the local Midas.

Yep I saw it's only about R20 a liter more expensive than Actevo so I bought some and put it in my bike, it sounds the same 

Is that a bad thing?

Secretly hoping to get the motor quieter, it has always had the irritating ticking noise I want to get rid off. From reading it sounds like a Husky thing but I want it gone.

Ja look I think they have a certain agricultural aspect that I don't think can be denied 

Well at least if I ride I can't hear it 

[sidetrack]

Check your pin holding the front brake pads in the caliper. Mine lost it's circlip and the pin was about 1mm away from making contact with the spokes !

[wolf skaap]

Ja look I think they have a certain agricultural aspect that I don't think can be denied  

It's only after owning a precision engineered motor like the crf that you have these niggles. As they said, its never gonna sound like a Honda!

Remember how noisy the 525 and that 550 was!
Just go ride your bike and be happy! 

[BiG DoM]

... and who might "they" be?   ... sounds like the royal "we"... as far as I am concerned "they" can piss off as I do not want my Husky to look or sounds like a Japcrap Honda, thank you very much. Now lets get back to the dedicated subject of this thread = Husky TE 610 General Maintenance.

Straat kat I have never seen wear from the spring like that    And Alan's observation is good about the off-centirc cutout? Did you check the brass bushing for play?

[Straatkat]

The bent tabs on the plate that I fixed are equal, just the photo that was taken from an angle then it looks like one is bigger than the other, but the plate is a Husky part, and the tabs are equal.
The bush has some play, but really not much, ever so slight movement in the clutch basket. Also remember the bush is loose in both the clutch side and on the shaft, so you need to add the tolerances of the 2 sliding surfaces together and that will give double the play, was thinking about putting loctite on one of the sides, will measure and loctite the biggest tolerance.

The washers were worn down quite thin and then the springs can move about some,  I have 2 washers that are still as new, all the others are farked, go figure.

[wolf skaap]

... and who might "they" be?  

You asked the question, here's your answer: anybody listening to a 610 idling next to a crf. 

Now go.. delete my post again, as you seem to do with posts that do not support your product 

[BiG DoM]

... and who might "they" be?  

You asked the question, here's your answer: anybody listening to a 610 idling next to a crf.  

Now go.. delete my post again, as you seem to do with posts that do not support your product  

Firstly Husky is not my "product" - I own one and am passionate about it - I do not sell the product! I have owned two Hondas and while I 'liked' them I was not passionate about them. As I have indicated before this is a dedicated thread for Husky TE610 owners and other interested WD's who have positive contributions or questions to post on General Maintenance - it is not here for puerile trolling, hijacking and brand bashing bullying by naysayers (which has reared its ugly head recently). There is nothing stopping anyone from taking these opinions and prejudices and airing them under Jou Ma - it is just not appropriate here on a dedicated technical thread - and yes they will get deleted if necessary. This is not to protect the brand which after all people buy and ride by choice - but to retain the integrity and purpose of this thread.  

[Rough Rider]

... and who might "they" be?  

You asked the question, here's your answer: anybody listening to a 610 idling next to a crf.  

Now go.. delete my post again, as you seem to do with posts that do not support your product  

Firstly Husky is not my "product" - I own one and am passionate about it - I do not sell the product! I have owned two Hondas and while I 'liked' them I was not passionate about them. As I have indicated before this is a dedicated thread for Husky TE610 owners and other interested WD's who have positive contributions or questions to post on General Maintenance - it is not here for puerile trolling, hijacking and brand bashing bullying by naysayers (which has reared its ugly head recently). There is nothing stopping anyone from taking these opinions and prejudices and airing them under Jou Ma - it is just not appropriate here on a dedicated technical thread - and yes they will get deleted if necessary. This is not to protect the brand which after all people buy and ride by choice - but to retain the integrity and purpose of this thread. 

I agree with you Dom

[alanB]

The bent tabs on the plate that I fixed are equal, just the photo that was taken from an angle then it looks like one is bigger than the other, but the plate is a Husky part, and the tabs are equal.
The bush has some play, but really not much, ever so slight movement in the clutch basket. Also remember the bush is loose in both the clutch side and on the shaft, so you need to add the tolerances of the 2 sliding surfaces together and that will give double the play, was thinking about putting loctite on one of the sides, will measure and loctite the biggest tolerance.

The washers were worn down quite thin and then the springs can move about some,  I have 2 washers that are still as new, all the others are farked, go figure.

Ok so it was just the photo making it look off centre

Regarding that clutch bush.  I could move mine quite a lot (I thought) by grabing the basket and wiggling it - but Conrad of Offroad cycles wasnt worried about that at all, after checking it out himself after I asked him to, he said he didnt think it needed replacement.  So I deferred to his experience.

[BiG DoM]

The bent tabs on the plate that I fixed are equal, just the photo that was taken from an angle then it looks like one is bigger than the other, but the plate is a Husky part, and the tabs are equal.
The bush has some play, but really not much, ever so slight movement in the clutch basket. Also remember the bush is loose in both the clutch side and on the shaft, so you need to add the tolerances of the 2 sliding surfaces together and that will give double the play, was thinking about putting loctite on one of the sides, will measure and loctite the biggest tolerance.

The washers were worn down quite thin and then the springs can move about some,  I have 2 washers that are still as new, all the others are farked, go figure.

Ok so it was just the photo making it look off centre

Regarding that clutch bush.  I could move mine quite a lot (I thought) by grabing the basket and wiggling it - but Conrad of Offroad cycles wasnt worried about that at all, after checking it out himself after I asked him to, he said he didnt think it needed replacement.  So I deferred to his experience.

Good to know. Mine had a very little play when I did the washers but also thought it pretty negligible. 

[Straatkat]

Check your pin holding the front brake pads in the caliper. Mine lost it's circlip and the pin was about 1mm away from making contact with the spokes !

Checked mine and the wire clip is also missing, but the pin is still in place, going to put some wire through the hole and tie it on properly.

[sidetrack]

Check your pin holding the front brake pads in the caliper. Mine lost it's circlip and the pin was about 1mm away from making contact with the spokes !

Checked mine and the wire clip is also missing, but the pin is still in place, going to put some wire through the hole and tie it on properly.

Reckon it gets knock off when riding through the bush, threaded unit may have been a safer bet.

[Straatkat]

The bent tabs on the plate that I fixed are equal, just the photo that was taken from an angle then it looks like one is bigger than the other, but the plate is a Husky part, and the tabs are equal.
The bush has some play, but really not much, ever so slight movement in the clutch basket. Also remember the bush is loose in both the clutch side and on the shaft, so you need to add the tolerances of the 2 sliding surfaces together and that will give double the play, was thinking about putting loctite on one of the sides, will measure and loctite the biggest tolerance.

The washers were worn down quite thin and then the springs can move about some,  I have 2 washers that are still as new, all the others are farked, go figure.

Ok so it was just the photo making it look off centre

Regarding that clutch bush.  I could move mine quite a lot (I thought) by grabing the basket and wiggling it - but Conrad of Offroad cycles wasnt worried about that at all, after checking it out himself after I asked him to, he said he didnt think it needed replacement.  So I deferred to his experience.

OK I measured my bush on the clutch basket and between the basket and the bush it has 0.04mm clearance and between the bush and the shaft it has 0.1mm play, which is a sloppy 0.14 total. Think I'll be turning another.

[Straatkat]

Got my bike together today, new clutch bush, new washers, and repaired spring retention plate, works great. no untoward noises. Just for the record I fitted a 47 back sprocket and 13 front, it feels like I fitted a turbo, but runs out of steam quite fast.
7000 revs sees 130km/h and at 110 it revs 5800. Seems this ratio is a bit extreme for allround ability, will fit the 14 front next and see if I can live with that on the road. (the 13 is going to destroy my back tyre in no time, spins ALL the time)

[BiG DoM]

Well while I wait for a few parts for my Airboxectomy project I started going over the Husky = I want to do a service, check the front steering head bearings, and I wanted to do the valve clearances. So pulled the tank and radiators aside etc to get at the valve covers ... which still leak!!    I am determined to fix it this time - now the existing gaskets had been reused a few times and last time I also used silicone gasket sealer to try and get a good seal ... but of course the oil comes out the bolts!!! Long story short the gaskets were a bit fooked when I got them off and did not really want to use them again OR wait for new ones. I had a half sheet of gasket paper from Autozone that I had used for a clutch cover gasket on the KDX and so promptly traced two valve cover gasket and cut them with a scalpel and punched the holes with a leather punch. Total cost R1.50 for two! (The whole sheet had cost me just over R3.00 and had used half already). Now there is a bargain.    So just to say - make your own if you need to, is so simple. Oh and the (hopefully) oil leak fix = copper washers (thanks alanB for suggestion) and silicone gasket fix on the top part of the bolts. There is not thread at the top of the cover so it does not gravitate on the thread just weeps through at the bolt head IMO.

[sidetrack]

I have read some just forego the paper gaskets and put some silicone sealant only. I'm not a big fan however as it always seems to squeeze out the sides and could land up in the oil pump.

[BiG DoM]

I have read some just forego the paper gaskets and put some silicone sealant only. I'm not a big fan however as it always seems to squeeze out the sides and could land up in the oil pump.

Yeah also read that somewhere but like you not a fan of the stuff if I can help it. Also really most of it gets squeezed out ... and inside too!
I find a gasket just makes more sense. Also if you have ever had to scrape that kak off a machined surface without scratching it and stripping your m@4r you will avoid it... especially if it is every time you do the valve lash!