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Offline Forrie

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2009 Husky TE610
« on: December 23, 2013, 10:08:23 pm »
Having read most of the threads on this forum pertaining to the Husky TE610, I decided this is the bike for me.

Today I took delivery of a 2009 FI model and was wondering if any fellow 610 owners could give me a breakdown in order of importance the modifications you believe should be made.

Thanks.
2013 KTM 690 Enduro
2001 Honda XR650R
2014 Yamaha BWS 100
2009 Husqvarna TE610 (Sold)
 

Offline sidetrack

Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #1 on: December 23, 2013, 10:21:08 pm »
Only weak points are the cam chain and clutch basket washers. Get to TDC, remove the cam chain tensioner and count the exposed teeth. If you have less than 10 showing you are still fine. Worn cam chain will also make a metallic rattle when you close the throttle. Check the bag filter just below the gear lever. If you find any metal debris in here you will need to get then changed.
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Ride reports :
http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=134175.0 Penge's pass and the Old Forest http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=9421.0 - Orange Atlantic adventure http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=7514.0 - 805 km day trip http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=20260.0 - East Cape Bash http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=70199.0 - Two KTM thumpers head north
 

Offline Forrie

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2013, 10:51:02 pm »
Thanks sidetrack, much appreciate your feedback.
2013 KTM 690 Enduro
2001 Honda XR650R
2014 Yamaha BWS 100
2009 Husqvarna TE610 (Sold)
 

Offline Crossed-up

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #3 on: December 24, 2013, 05:16:58 am »
Beautiful bike - congratulations.  Change the oil frequently and keep the air filter clean and properly fitting.  It will give you great service. 

Like Sidetrack said.  Timing chain and clutch washer issues.  The timing chain becomes a service item and the clutch, once sorted, will give no further issues.

I see you have a bashplate, luggage rack and an aftermarket exhaust.  If you ride at night you'll find the stock headlamp is inadequate.  If you enjoy technical stuff you should fit folding mirrors.  There's really not much else to do.

I'd avoid a big fuel tank unless you really want to do very remote long distance travelling. 
 
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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #4 on: December 24, 2013, 06:15:51 am »
Congrats - looks like you got a great example of a very capable iconic mid-weight adventure bike  :ricky: (yes I am biased as it is exactly like mine). These bikes are revered in USA and Australia for good reason.

There are things to do on these scoots for peace of mind and to make them suited to your riding style and use. They are not all maintenance issues or must do customisations. When I first got mine I was slightly frustrated that I thought I was fixing alot of things but in reality I was ensuring it was 'adventure ready' - also going over the bike you get to know it and its workings more intimately  >:D
I will list a few more things but may forget some - read-up here on the Husky threads and get over to the Cafe Husky website. Ask away when you want to know anything  :thumleft:

1) The clutch thrust washers and timing chain depend largely on km on the bike and how it has been ridden. I did the washers more as  preventative maintenance and my timing chain is still fine. I have 15 000km+ on mine. When the chain needs doing consider fitting a manual APE adjuster.
2) Check all engine mounting bolts - especially the ones under the tank. If loose back out and locktite and torque.
3) Remove the footpeg brackets and check that the contact surfaces mate-up flush - sometimes the welds need a little flatting. This ensures full contact area and strength of a vital part - replace the bolts with HT ones.
4) Make sure you know how to take the air box cover off - DO NOT overtighten the bolts and put copperslip on them (they like to seize and the the threaded brass inserts then turn in the plastic). Some like to secure the crank breather pipe that enters at the back with a small cable tie to ensure it does not pop out.
5) Do the PU (power-up) conversion - an easy DIY.
6) Decatt the exhaust or fit aftermarket freeflow (looks like yours has one). This and the PU make a BIG difference. Some mod the cover for better air flow.
7) Be careful of loading the rear carrier - subframes on these bikes like many in their class are aluminium and a weak point if loaded. If you want to carry stuff there consider strengthening the subframe with gusseting.
8)The bikes like to weep oil from the top tappet covers - use gasket sealer on the top threads of the cover bolts.
9) The standard side stand is make of Italian cheese. Replace with one off a 630 or have it remade using the existing cast hinge.
10) Headlight as mentioned - a few aftermarket options also available.
11) Some do a tail tidy and replace tail light.
12) Steering damper and bar risers nice to havs.
13) Some like a small screen, others prefer naked.
14) Disc protectors depending on riding done.

I will add things as I think of them.
Enjoy  :ricky:
« Last Edit: December 24, 2013, 06:30:38 am by BiG DoM »
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Offline alanB

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2013, 07:08:19 am »
Congratulations and welcome  :thumleft: :ricky:

Just to add to a few of the things Big Dom suggested:



1) The clutch thrust washers and timing chain depend largely on km on the bike and how it has been ridden. I did the washers more as  preventative maintenance and my timing chain is still fine. I have 15 000km+ on mine. When the chain needs doing consider fitting a manual APE adjuster. If you ask Straatkat very nicely he might make you some washers, otherwise Big Dom can put you onto a guy in the USA that makes the washers - the OEM's are useless.
2) Check all engine mounting bolts - especially the ones under the tank. If loose back out and locktite and torque.
3) Remove the footpeg brackets and check that the contact surfaces mate-up flush - sometimes the welds need a little flatting. This ensures full contact area and strength of a vital part - replace the bolts with HT ones.  [I replace these bolts every 6 months or so, the design is bad and it puts too much stress on the bolts which makes them prone to cracking and then sudden failure when the crack propagates far enough, so replacing the bolts reasonably frequently means you dont have any nasty surprises while riding.  (Use at least 8.8 grade bolts)
4) Make sure you know how to take the air box cover off - DO NOT overtighten the bolts and put copperslip on them, everytime you take them out  (they like to seize and the the threaded brass inserts then turn in the plastic). Some like to secure the crank breather pipe that enters at the back with a small cable tie to ensure it does not pop out. I glued mine in with silicon
5) Do the PU (power-up) conversion - an easy DIY.
6) Decatt the exhaust or fit aftermarket freeflow (looks like yours has one). This and the PU make a BIG difference. Some mod the cover for better air flow.
7) Be careful of loading the rear carrier - subframes on these bikes like many in their class are aluminium and a weak point if loaded. If you want to carry stuff there consider strengthening the subframe with gusseting.
8)The bikes like to weep oil from the top tappet covers - use gasket sealer on the top threads of the cover bolts. Use copper washers on the bolts holding the tappet covers - it usually leaks from there.
9) The standard side stand is make of Italian cheese. Replace with one off a 630 or have it remade using the existing cast hinge.  I used 25x1,6 mm steel tubing, much more sturdy
10) Headlight as mentioned - a few aftermarket options also available.
11) Some do a tail tidy and replace tail light.
12) Steering damper and bar risers nice to havs.
13) Some like a small screen, others prefer naked.
14) Disc protectors depending on riding done.

I will add things as I think of them.
Enjoy  :ricky:

Check the clutch cable routing, it needs to be below the handle bars.

Check the wires arent pinched under the battery.

Check the battery tray isnt cracked (if the battery isnt properly secured (that rubber band thingy is useless), it hammers up and down and eventually cracks the frame.

Use two heavy duty cable ties and really crank the battery down so it cant move.

If you have the CT chain that was installed as standard on some bikes, toss it, its prone to sudden failure.

If you still have the original battery, toss it, its prone to sudden failure, and you cant restart the bike because you cant spin up the fuel pump without a battery.

Its a good idea to grease all the threads in the brass inserts on the tank, so that you dont have them sticking due to corrosion - but if they have been in too long you may not want to risk it  :-\
Husqvarna '09 610TE - Great Bike!

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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #6 on: December 24, 2013, 07:38:39 am »
Good additions Alan - meant to mention the battery box. HK has just had the wiring issue in that area with his bike. I replaced the battery with an Ultrabatt - lighter and no strain on the cradle. Can be held in place with double sided tape and a cable tie for reassurance.

And yes use the cast hinge on the side stand for making a new one.

Good point re the chain - think the '09 had a RS as OEM but changed mine for a DID VMX2. Also consider fitting a a case saver. I also went to a 47 rear sprocket.

While it may be a good idea to service the foot peg bolts regularly the critical thing is to ensure the two mating surfaces are flush and true - this reduces the force potentially exerted on the bolts significantly.
« Last Edit: December 24, 2013, 07:47:42 am by BiG DoM »
"Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle" - Hunter S. Thompson

Scoots: BMW HP2  Husky 701R  Husky  TE610E  BMW G450X  KTM 250XCW  Yamaha YZ250X BMW R100S YAMAHA BWS 

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Offline Forrie

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #7 on: December 24, 2013, 08:14:02 am »
Thanks guys, your detailed feedback is way beyond anything I expected.

Time to hit the garage.....
2013 KTM 690 Enduro
2001 Honda XR650R
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2009 Husqvarna TE610 (Sold)
 

Offline alanB

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #8 on: December 24, 2013, 08:32:27 am »
Last crucial point:

If you remove the tank BE VERY CAREFUL of the little plastic nipples that the fuel hoses fit onto - they are very brittle and snap at the merest nudge.
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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #9 on: December 24, 2013, 09:05:57 am »
Last crucial point:

If you remove the tank BE VERY CAREFUL of the little plastic nipples that the fuel hoses fit onto - they are very brittle and snap at the merest nudge.


Another good point Alan - the connectors are QD's (quick disconnects) - but plastic and vulnerable, esp the elbows. Also note where the pipes go and do not force them. Can take patience.
"Love is the feeling you get when you like something as much as your motorcycle" - Hunter S. Thompson

Scoots: BMW HP2  Husky 701R  Husky  TE610E  BMW G450X  KTM 250XCW  Yamaha YZ250X BMW R100S YAMAHA BWS 

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Offline Straatkat

Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #10 on: December 24, 2013, 03:03:27 pm »
 And don't forget to fasten the big nut in the clutch housing, a few guys had issues with it coming loose and shearing the key off, it is another known issue.
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Offline Rough Rider

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Re: 2009 Husky TE610
« Reply #11 on: December 24, 2013, 04:48:12 pm »
Congrats; nice bike.
Current rides: 2015 WR250F / 2016 690R / 2017 701SM