Author Topic: Mothballed DR200 - bringing it back to life (Read 1831 times)

Skootaboy · « **on:** February 29, 2008, 08:34:22 am »

Mothballed DR200 - bringing it back to life
Last night I took delivery of a Suzuki DR200 SEW. It's a 2004 model with 648 km's on the clock. Yes - you heard right - 4 years old and only 640 km's!!. I paid R13 000. The bike has been standing for some time (some years I think). The bikes a tad dusty but otherwise no obvious damage or scratches. Obviously the battery is dead as a doornail - I'll probably get a new one. I can't get the engine to run though. After about 20 kickstarts the engine fires erratically but after a few seconds dies. There appears to be a bit of rust in the tank probably caused by condensation during storage. There is probably a bit of water in the petrol as well. I'll probably take the carb off and clean it out tonight. There might be a bit of rust dust clogging the fuel system (jets and stuff). There might be a filter in the petcock as well - probably also clogged with rust dust. I also noticed that there's brake fluid on the front caliper and disk. I can't see where it's leaking from. It definitely not leaking from the hose or the connection. Must be from a seal within the caliper somewhere. Do you guys think I should replace the tubes as well? What else should I do to bring this bike back to life?

topbox · « **Reply #1 on:** February 29, 2008, 08:42:37 am »

Fuel goes stale , so replace that
clean the carb with carb cleaner or better still compression stabiliser. the inside of the carb will look like varnish

replace all fluids, brake, fuel, oil etc

slashback · « **Reply #2 on:** February 29, 2008, 08:43:57 am »

Hi Skootaboy
It sounds like you have found a little bargain there, but it's going to need some work. You will have to drain the tank and then get a handful of little ball-bearings, put them in the tank along with a little petrol and employ someone to sit and shake the tank about for an hour or so to remove as much rust as possible. This does help, but unfortunately a rusted tank will always cause you grief. You'll have to fit a very fine in-line fuel filter on it too, to keep the rust out of your float-bowl.
Drain all the fluid out of the brake system and check for rust too, in the reservoirs, hoses and calipers.
I would also drain the engine oil, fit a new oil filter and new oil, just to be on the safe side.
Keep us up to date of your progress...and some pics!!

FortyZA · « **Reply #3 on:** February 29, 2008, 08:47:10 am »

I think that the fork are leaking after standing they become brittle and leak. that is what happend to my KDX and WR. I would suggest that all fluids be changed, new battery fitted and maybe even tyres and tubes. Check the side walls for cracks and if found, rather replace.
Keep us up to speed on what you find and maybe even a pic or two.
Thanks

Poffmuis · « **Reply #4 on:** February 29, 2008, 08:53:16 am »

mmm, Ive often wondered about bikes standing that long. Should one not maybe go so far as to remove the sump and flush the engine out with paraffin? refill with oil run engine till warm and drain again.

lecap · « **Reply #5 on:** February 29, 2008, 09:05:13 am »

SEW means 1997 model. (?) A 2004 would be an SEK4

Clean carb and fuel system.
Do full service with change of oil & filter.
Find fluid leak (fork seals?)

Be careful with the tires if it's really an SEW. They will be hard as a piece of Camelthorn. Not really an issue if you ride dirt only but scary on tar and outright dangerous if it gets wet. Also check for porous inner tubes (pressure loss over a few days)

Newguy: If you're really worried about k*K floating around in the engine then change oil, warm up engine & ride around the block for 15 minutes, drain hot oil, replace oil filter and fill up with fresh oil again.

The DR200 has a specific problem with standing over extended periods of time: The clutch steel discs start to corrode and the clutch does not want to disengage, the bike creeps and downshifts get very sticky.
Either clean with steel wool or replace steel discs depending on how bad it is.

Also check the swingarm pivot bearings which are some pathetic rapidly wearing fibre reinforced PA jobbies. (I do long lasting and precise needle bearing conversions for the DR200). Grease cushion lever bearings while you're at it.

Eisbein · « **Reply #6 on:** February 29, 2008, 09:42:25 am »

Lecap - I'm so glad you are on this forum.

Thanks for always being willing to help.

Skootaboy · « **Reply #7 on:** February 29, 2008, 10:10:39 am »

Thanks for all the good information. I'm itching to get started but I have to work this weekend. I'll post pics.

shark_za · « **Reply #8 on:** February 29, 2008, 12:08:50 pm »

Mothballed means it was put away carefully and with thought. This is not like that, this is neglected.

sidetrack · « **Reply #9 on:** March 01, 2008, 04:02:41 am »

Drain float bowl and add a new spark plug. I'm sure it will at least run then. I have seen spark plugs just going kaput after a bike has just been standing.

Skootaboy · « **Reply #10 on:** March 03, 2008, 08:03:16 am »

Things are looking good. Now that I have had a look in the sunlight there is no rust in the tank. What I thought was rust was probably dirt around the filler cap hole. I stuck my finger under the rim, saw the gunge and immediatley made a wrong diagnosis. Yesterday I installed a new battery and cleaned out the entire fuel system. The bike started like a dream. The front caliper is definitely leaking brake fluid from the piston/plunger seal. I have removed the caliper but I can't get the piston out. The manual says to blow it out with an air gun (but not a high pressure one else the piston will come out like a bullet). I've cleaned the bike and it really looks brand new. I took the bike out for a test ride (with no front brake mind) and it feels so small. I'm used to my 1200 adv so the adjustment is huge. I've got a David and Goliath in my garage now. It won't be long before fuel is R10 per litre so this bike will do just fine to commute to work. I travel from Glenvista in the south of Joburg via Rosettenville and then thru central Jhb and Jan Smuts to Hyde Park each day.

lecap · « **Reply #11 on:** March 03, 2008, 08:18:03 am »

Take the brake caliper to a bike (like in pedalbike) shop and borrow an old steering stem (the "classic" wedge type pre. Ahead Set!) Stick steering stem into piston, tighten, pull. Easy.

Pom · « **Reply #12 on:** March 03, 2008, 10:07:26 am »

Hijack on.

Lecap, you seem to know an awful lot about the tricks of the trade.
Why don't you start a thread regarding these things

Just a suggestion, I for one would be a regular reader.

Cheers

Pom

Hijack off

Skootaboy · « **Reply #13 on:** March 03, 2008, 03:01:46 pm »

Suzuki haven't got brake caliper piston seals in stock. I have to wait 3 to 4 weeks.....Grrrrrrrr!!!
I'll go and visit Bike Hospital - maybe they've got a caliper laying around.

Pom · « **Reply #14 on:** March 03, 2008, 03:44:20 pm »

What do the seals look like, can you get one out as a sample.
If so I am sure you can purchase a normal seal - "O" ring or whatever.

Point of fact, I was quoted R300-00 a seal for fork seals on a Honda Cruiser.
I took a chance and took the part to a motor spares shop, they measured it and
it turned out to be the same as a wheel bearing seal on a Nissan Bakkie.
I bought the seals for the bakkie at R7-00 each, fitted them and did 10 000 kays
without a hitch.

As a matter of interest some Suzuki oil filters are the same as a Daihatsu Charade,
R15-00 from Midas

Off you go to the motor spares shop my lad

Skootaboy · « **Reply #15 on:** March 04, 2008, 07:14:01 am »

Due to the corrosive nature of bake fluid do these seals not have to be 'special' by any chance?

GRIM · « **Reply #16 on:** March 04, 2008, 09:42:22 am »

Quote from: Skootaboy on March 03, 2008, 03:01:46 pm

Suzuki haven't got brake caliper piston seals in stock. I have to wait 3 to 4 weeks.....Grrrrrrrr!!!
I'll go and visit Bike Hospital - maybe they've got a caliper laying around.

Any Suzuki parts that I was told to wait 3 - 4 weeks for never arrived... spend the time soucing an alternative

RobC · « **Reply #17 on:** March 04, 2008, 03:16:21 pm »

Quote from: Skootaboy on March 04, 2008, 07:14:01 am

Due to the corrosive nature of bake fluid do these seals not have to be 'special' by any chance?

Brake fluid is bad for paint. Rubber is usually ok, in any case most oil seals are made from synthetics these days that are almost indestructible.

lecap · « **Reply #18 on:** March 05, 2008, 09:28:47 am »

Very slim chance to get caliper piston seals non OEM. They have a square cross section (not like an O-ring)
Caliper repair kits for cars will in most cases not match as the pistons in cars brake calipers are much bigger than the ones in bikes (at least the DR200).

Skootaboy · « **Reply #19 on:** March 05, 2008, 02:05:56 pm »

I found a seal at Wingate Brake and Clutch in Benrose. They couldn't find a new dust seal but that's not the important one. I bled the brakes lat night but I can't get the brakes to stop properly. I used new dot4 brake fluid. I'm sure there is no air in the system. I even turned the caliper upside down to try and get any 'airlock' bubbles. The brake lever is not 'mushy'. I used new ebc pads and 'broke' them in last night as well as this morning (I rode the bike carefully to work). I think I'll try putting the old pads back on tonight. They were drenched with brake fluid when I got the bike but they look dry now. What am I doing wrong?

Author Topic: Mothballed DR200 - bringing it back to life (Read 1831 times)

shark_za