MITAS E07 Tread failure

[SeanH]

So I might be missing the a couple of facts or comments as I just skimmed over this thread, but there is one very important bit of info every bike tyre buyer needs to know. SPEED RATINGS & LOAD INDEX's on tyres are the most crucial bit of info you need to understand when buying a bike tyre. Each tyre should be clearly marked with its speed rating and load index, normally with the tyre size, for example : 150/70/17 69V. The 69V is the load rating and speed index code; i.e: 69 = up to 325kg's and V = maximum speed of 240kmh continuous speed. So if your bike is rated for a 69V tyre don't go fitting a 64S (280kg/180kmh) or 54R (212kg/170kmh) or etc because it is a couple of bucks cheaper, delaminating will be the least of your worries, the tyre could let go completely and put you in a world of hurt. Always try to fit the same or better than what your bike is spec'd for. A simple guide is to remember that both the load index and speed rating code work in ascending order, so the higher the number the higher the load rating and the furhter down the alphabet, the higher the speed rating. So if your bike is spec'd for a 69V and the dealer only has a choice of a  64S or  a 73W, take the 73W (365kg/270kmh). Compounds and tread patterns are secondary to load index & speed rating.
"Goed koop is letterlik DUUR KOOP" when it comes to tyres and even brake pads, save a couple of bucks here but be prepared to carry the conseqences and don't blame the product for your incorrect choices based on price.

[2wdrift]

I have run a E-07 for the last 5000km on my 1190 R. I ride hard, hard acceleration and hard braking on and off the road.

I have taken it up to 200 for very short moments when overtaking or playing with the "fast" cars, but never more than six seconds at a time. I have broken traction on the roads often when accelerating and have backed the bike into corners. I have small chunks chipped off the tire, but absolutely no cracks at all. I never ever deflate my tires from around 3.1 bar, I have not loaded the bike with the E-07 nor have I done days over 400km of tar with it.

I am very happy with the tire wear and performance, except for riding in the rain. In the rain this tire scares me.

I dont think its power or riding style that causes the cracks, or perhaps mine was made on a good day?

[Bensien]

When it comes to adventure bike tyres with aggressive treads, speed ratings are largely academic. There is a vast difference between running a tyre on the autobahn or against a drum in the factory, compared to our rough potholed roads, gravel and a variety of off road surfaces. These surfaces gradually weaken the tyre carcass. If you regularly ride your bike off the highway, limit your maximum speed when on it or on good secondary tarred roads. The bike manufacturers all have warnings in the manuals to restrict maximum speed to 160 when using knobbly type tyres and if you look at a TKC80 meant for heavy bikes, you will see it has a Q rating (160 kph)

Aggressive tread blocks also flex more, causing the tyre to work harden in the areas of flex, which leads to cracking. The likelihood of it happening increases with low pressures, high loads and continuous high speeds. Also bear in mind that if you ever had a puncture, regardless of whether you use a tubeless tyre or not, the tyre is damaged and all manufacturers’ warranties fall away, as well as speed and road ratings.

One last thing about speed ratings. The rating indicates sustained maximum speed. That does not mean running indefinitely at that speed. It means 10 minutes.

[lecap]

So I might be missing the a couple of facts or comments as I just skimmed over this thread, but there is one very important bit of info every bike tyre buyer needs to know. SPEED RATINGS & LOAD INDEX's on tyres are the most crucial bit of info you need to understand when buying a bike tyre. Each tyre should be clearly marked with its speed rating and load index, normally with the tyre size, for example : 150/70/17 69V. The 69V is the load rating and speed index code; i.e: 69 = up to 325kg's and V = maximum speed of 240kmh continuous speed. So if your bike is rated for a 69V tyre don't go fitting a 64S (280kg/180kmh) or 54R (212kg/170kmh) or etc because it is a couple of bucks cheaper, delaminating will be the least of your worries, the tyre could let go completely and put you in a world of hurt. Always try to fit the same or better than what your bike is spec'd for. A simple guide is to remember that both the load index and speed rating code work in ascending order, so the higher the number the higher the load rating and the furhter down the alphabet, the higher the speed rating. So if your bike is spec'd for a 69V and the dealer only has a choice of a  64S or  a 73W, take the 73W (365kg/270kmh). Compounds and tread patterns are secondary to load index & speed rating.
"Goed koop is letterlik DUUR KOOP" when it comes to tyres and even brake pads, save a couple of bucks here but be prepared to carry the conseqences and don't blame the product for your incorrect choices based on price.

You should maybe also mention the fitment of wider tires.
A tire is supposed to be matched with a specific width rim. You should NOT fit a wider tire just because it looks cool.
OEM tire sizes are often border line (read: already too wide for the rim size) and fitting a wider tire does not only cause wheel clearance issues but also forces the tire into an unnatural shape which will result in different flex of the carcass and thereby might affect the speed rating and load capacity.

With regards to wheel clearance: Minimum side wall clearance is some 6mm (check with a pencil) at any place through the suspension travel. Thread to chassis clearance on a DS bike should be 2cm or more (check with finger).

[THROTTLE JOCKEY]

The tyre manufacturers should then provide a warning statement when the tyre is purchased alerting the purchaser of the dangers of inter alia tyre delamination due to insufficient tyre pressure etc. If they don't it would seem to be a stretch of the imagination to think the purchasers would be aware of tyre deficiencies which are not in the normal realm of expected tyre issues.

You must be American by birth.

If you are going to use anything or you research and learn. No one will use heavy machinery with out training. Your bike is no different. You bike more than likely came out with another brand of tyre. If you change it do your homework. You cannot blame the tyre or the manufacturer for abuse, intended or unintended. Bottom line its your responsibility.

@ cocky yes its the same as cars and the tyre is rated at maximum constant speed and maximum weight at maximum pressure. And thats the kicker its up to us to be able to judge the conditions in relation to our speed in relation to the load in relation to the pressure.

Anyone can destroy any tyre in a very short space of time if the above is not close to right

One thing I do agree on is that I feel that all DS tyres are not weight rated high enough. IMHO.

[TheBear]

Why would anyone fit, what is basically a knobbly, and then want to do 190 on tar with it anyway?   

[lecap]

....

One last thing about speed ratings. The rating indicates sustained maximum speed. That does not mean running indefinitely at that speed. It means 10 minutes.

The rating indicates MAXIMUM SPEED AT NAX LOAD pumped rock hard ON A STANDARD SURFACE (which is EN or DOT smooth) at a standard temperature (which most likely is NOT African hot).
It does NOT indicate maximum sustained speed at or near the max. rated load on a bad road on a hot Kalahari day.

You have to deduct a considerable safety margin from the rated max. speed if you run the tire at the speed all day or if you run it close to or at the max rated load. Same for running the tire on bad tar or gravel vs. good smooth tar.

As a wild guess based recommendation  I would say don't exceed 80% of the speed and load rating of a tire.

[TornadoF5]

Horrible in wet

[Omninorm]

Why would anyone fit, what is basically a knobbly, and then want to do 190 on tar with it anyway?   

Dankie. Ek dog ek mis iets.

[BiG DoM]

What some also do not realise is a tyre can be damaged/compromised early in its life and often only manifest later. Just because that one time you naaied it back from Pitsonderwater after a day in the dunes and it looked just fine on the outside does not necessarily mean that all is OK with the compound, carcass integrity, sidewall plys  etc  

[katana]

This is quite funny.  I am on my second e07.  Both cracked.  I am uber careful with pressures and the way I ride.  I accept this tire is the best of a bad bunch, even with the cracks.  Point is:  The tire cracks, not because I rape it.  That makes it a poor product, even though the other tires have their own weaknesses.  The makers should deal with it, not blame the users.  Most of us don't abuse the E07.

[2wdrift]

Katana I agree with your post entirely, but I did abuse my E-07 and it doesnt have any cracks. So I think its inconsistent quality from the factory?

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[Gerrard]

Katana I agree with your post entirely, but I did abuse my E-07 and it doesnt have any cracks. So I think its inconsistent quality from the factory?

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Ah ! now we get somewhere with the point I made. The inconsistent quality failures, whether abused or not, mostly shows up on big bikes.

[katana]

Katana I agree with your post entirely, but I did abuse my E-07 and it doesnt have any cracks. So I think its inconsistent quality from the factory?

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Ah ! now we get somewhere with the point I made. The inconsistent quality failures, whether abused or not, mostly shows up on big bikes.

I agree.  There is that pattern.  The 150/17 is a big bike tire though.  (Same as the 150/18)

[Vis Arend]

This is quite funny.  I am on my second e07.  Both cracked.  I am uber careful with pressures and the way I ride.  I accept this tire is the best of a bad bunch, even with the cracks.  Point is:  The tire cracks, not because I rape it.  That makes it a poor product, even though the other tires have their own weaknesses.  The makers should deal with it, not blame the users.  Most of us don't abuse the E07.

Fully agree, and that is also precisely my point.  I am on my 6th e07.  (sucker for punishment  ) All 5 previously cracked with 2 of them loosing chunks.  The last one is the new compound with less than a 1 000km on.  So far so good.