Author Topic: Help with Chainlube PAINS!!! (Read 10309 times)

2StrokeDan · « **Reply #60 on:** November 11, 2014, 06:37:50 pm »

Look at the chain and think carefully about it's workings.

Lecap, not to start an argument, because you are partly right, about the chain needing lube between the rollers and the bush, but I must strongly disagree with you on the part where you reckon there is very little wear between the sprocket teeth and the roller.
The area between the sprocket teeth and the roller is important to lubricate, what do you think wears your sprocket teeth other than wear between the teeth and roller?

tgg · « **Reply #61 on:** November 11, 2014, 09:37:02 pm »

Valvoline synthetic chain lube, its cheap (R65 a can) just spray the dust and grime off with a hose pipe after the ride or at the next wash.

I sell alot of it .

A nice white lube that does not mess or fling

jagter · « **Reply #62 on:** November 12, 2014, 12:14:41 pm »

I use 90W gear oil. I leave a small medicine bottle full of 90W oil and a tiny paint brush in my bike's 'cubbyhole'.

whenever the chain looks dry, it's a few brush strokes. And done.

The oil doesn't last as long as wax, but it also doesn't accumulate too much crap. So the chain stays reasonably clean without any fuss.

jj le roux · « **Reply #63 on:** November 12, 2014, 02:10:47 pm »

Quote from: Piet on November 04, 2014, 07:18:02 am

Quote from: ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS on November 03, 2014, 05:26:01 pm
ToolintheCan
+1

I've been using tool-in-a-can and/or WD40 for about 50 000km and my chains last very well (37000km on first chain and sprockets, 24000km on current set - still going strong).

It's clean, easy, convenient and cheap. I tilt the bike, put a stick under the swingarm and spin the rear wheel while spraying around the front sprocket cover.

Second this!

lecap · « **Reply #64 on:** November 13, 2014, 07:50:23 am »

Quote from: 2StrokeDan on November 11, 2014, 06:37:50 pm

Look at the chain and think carefully about it's workings.

Lecap, not to start an argument, because you are partly right, about the chain needing lube between the rollers and the bush, but I must strongly disagree with you on the part where you reckon there is very little wear between the sprocket teeth and the roller.
The area between the sprocket teeth and the roller is important to lubricate, what do you think wears your sprocket teeth other than wear between the teeth and roller?

Only if the roller does not turn freely (as in if there is no proper lubrication) you will have wear between the outside of the roller and the sprocket teeth. Obviously and fortunately we are not living in an ideal world free of friction. This means your roller chain rollers and sprockets will wear.

Dirt caught between roller and sprocket teeth will obviously also cause wear. Although the success story of Mr. Reynold's patent has pretty much proven that wear between the rollers and sprockets is much lower as long as the rollers are lubricated and turning.

Piet · « **Reply #65 on:** November 13, 2014, 08:21:12 am »

Quote from: lecap on November 13, 2014, 07:50:23 am

Quote from: 2StrokeDan on November 11, 2014, 06:37:50 pm
Look at the chain and think carefully about it's workings.

Lecap, not to start an argument, because you are partly right, about the chain needing lube between the rollers and the bush, but I must strongly disagree with you on the part where you reckon there is very little wear between the sprocket teeth and the roller.
The area between the sprocket teeth and the roller is important to lubricate, what do you think wears your sprocket teeth other than wear between the teeth and roller?

Only if the roller does not turn freely (as in if there is no proper lubrication) you will have wear between the outside of the roller and the sprocket teeth. Obviously and fortunately we are not living in an ideal world free of friction. This means your roller chain rollers and sprockets will wear.

Dirt caught between roller and sprocket teeth will obviously also cause wear. Although the success story of Mr. Reynold's patent has pretty much proven that wear between the rollers and sprockets is much lower as long as the rollers are lubricated and turning.

Come now Dan, you KNOW Lecap has only been wrong once. And that was the time he THOUGHT he was mistaken, but then realised he was not...

Roxtar · « **Reply #66 on:** November 13, 2014, 08:31:38 am »

When it comes to lube stuff I never skimp as the benefits outweigh the cost of earlier replacements/overhauls by far..... For chains I can highly recommend Belray "anti-fling" lube, just clean the chain with same Belray chain cleaner and then run the chain for a short distance to dry and heat it and then apply the lube. Apparently the heat in the cahin helps to draw the lube into the orifices, or so the tin says lol......... Let the bike stand overnight if you can to let the lube dry properly and I promise it never flings off or dirties anything and dries to a nice white wax on the chain!

Riding dirt just means you HAVE to take more care of the chain and lube more often, I just make it part of the regular washing/cleaning process so really no hassle at all. I also believe the chain is a good indicator of the general level of maintenance on a motorcyle so is one of the 1st things I always check when considering any pre-owned bike to buy, and bid accordingly.

Mudster · « **Reply #67 on:** November 13, 2014, 08:53:45 am »

It makes sense that any metal on metal will have wear due to the friction, so lubrication will reduce wear so long as it does not hold dirt and grit which is the same as putting some sandpaper in there.

I have used Go Chain Wax for six years and nothing beats it. No fling and as its not oil based does not form grinding paste. Not always easy to find from bike shops but Bearing Man stores all have it and is reasonably priced.

Shaky · « **Reply #68 on:** November 13, 2014, 10:18:35 am »

Quote from: Mudster on November 13, 2014, 08:53:45 am

It makes sense that any metal on metal will have wear due to the friction, so lubrication will reduce wear so long as it does not hold dirt and grit which is the same as putting some sandpaper in there.

I have used Go Chain Wax for six years and nothing beats it. No fling and as its not oil based does not form grinding paste. Not always easy to find from bike shops but Bearing Man stores all have it and is reasonably priced.

I will vouch for Go Chain Wax !!! is also easy and not messy when cleaning your chain after heavy riding. I also use it in my mountain bike chain, and although it is thicker than normal wax base bicycle lube, it last forever and does not clock the gears with muck. from mountain biking I have come to learn the value and effect of keeping a well maintained chain.

I have found it is even more important on a motor bike.

Pistonpete · « **Reply #69 on:** November 15, 2014, 08:31:35 am »

So no matter what your chain needs some lube....choices are standard anti-fling (duh), chain wax (yet to see 'wax' in recipe) and Teflon Dry lube...which seems to be trending...
Take your pick & be happy

Bensien · « **Reply #70 on:** November 15, 2014, 08:43:56 am »

I use a high quality chain wax, but in an emergency I will use whatever suitable lubricant I can find, rather than nothing at all. I also use a specialized chain cleaner. If I don’t get 40 000km on a chain and set of sprockets, I feel cheated.

Arno Roux · « **Reply #71 on:** November 15, 2014, 09:25:08 am »

Ek gebruik Wurth se dry chain lube. Baie baie goeie resultate en ketting is nooit vuil en vol stof soos met lube of wax nie

Sputnik080 · « **Reply #72 on:** February 27, 2015, 03:00:14 pm »

Quote from: Piet on November 13, 2014, 08:21:12 am

Quote from: lecap on November 13, 2014, 07:50:23 am
Quote from: 2StrokeDan on November 11, 2014, 06:37:50 pm
Look at the chain and think carefully about it's workings.

Lecap, not to start an argument, because you are partly right, about the chain needing lube between the rollers and the bush, but I must strongly disagree with you on the part where you reckon there is very little wear between the sprocket teeth and the roller.
The area between the sprocket teeth and the roller is important to lubricate, what do you think wears your sprocket teeth other than wear between the teeth and roller?

Only if the roller does not turn freely (as in if there is no proper lubrication) you will have wear between the outside of the roller and the sprocket teeth. Obviously and fortunately we are not living in an ideal world free of friction. This means your roller chain rollers and sprockets will wear.

Dirt caught between roller and sprocket teeth will obviously also cause wear. Although the success story of Mr. Reynold's patent has pretty much proven that wear between the rollers and sprockets is much lower as long as the rollers are lubricated and turning.

Come now Dan, you KNOW Lecap has only been wrong once. And that was the time he THOUGHT he was mistaken, but then realised he was not...

Jacobsroodt · « **Reply #73 on:** August 07, 2019, 08:08:16 pm »

Very interesting: in my KTM300 XC-W manual, lubricating the chain when riding in sand is discouraged.

WildWood · « **Reply #74 on:** August 07, 2019, 09:58:53 pm »

This is another angle worth looking at.
https://youtu.be/VnPYdcbcAe0

WildWood · « **Reply #75 on:** August 07, 2019, 10:13:39 pm »

Not sure if its still the case but Honda used to recommend gear oil for all their motorcycle chains.

m0lt3n · « **Reply #76 on:** August 08, 2019, 07:35:21 am »

There was a huge discussion on this recently on facebook. My conclusion was: meticulous painful chain maintenance will get you close to 30k km from a chain. Sloppy maintenance will get you 25k km and no maintenance will get you 20k km. Obviously results vary (bike power, terrain you ride, cheap vs expensive chain etc)

I will be happy with 25k km, not worth putting in all that effort.
Basically when the chain gets noisy or "slappy", it needs lube.

Ganjora · « **Reply #77 on:** August 08, 2019, 08:31:53 am »

similar experience with chains.
the extended length of life cycle doesn't justify the time, effort or cost involved in meticulously looking after a chain.

Edgar · « **Reply #78 on:** August 08, 2019, 09:31:10 am »

I have Liqui Moly chain lube in a can, and it still splatters everywhere on the bike after I lube the chain. I just stopped doing it.

jaybiker · « **Reply #79 on:** August 08, 2019, 12:15:35 pm »

People write as though a few splashes of gunk on their wheel rim or swingarm was the end of the world.

So long as it doesn't lubricate your tyre or brake pads, in which case you're using too much, then it's pretty harmless and it cleans off! Who keeps a dual purpose bike so concours anyway?

As for it's lubricant value, on a sealed and pre-lubed chain, it will always be an argumentative issue. In theory it can't lubricate the parts that it can not reach, which basically leaves the sprockets. Whether it's beneficial there, or whether it just attracts grit and forms a lovely grinding paste is something I've never been able to decide. All I know is that I have a can of the stuff that I got in a prize draw so I use it now and again.