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Author Topic: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild and restore thread  (Read 12948 times)

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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #40 on: October 11, 2015, 08:51:57 am »
Can anyone confirm the steering stem bearing sizes? Got a suspicion mine might not be spec as the bottom bearing had to be lifted by 2 spacers in order to make good contact with the bottom race.

Well that was how I found it - so am a bit unsure.

You will find most of the basic maintenance info in our threads or over at CH. Look here for steering head bearings.

http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=131482.0

If I recall correctly mine had at least one spacer as well. (Chances are that it has never been replaced anyway). Also look at sealing up the cutout in the steering head that was evidently for a steering lock … allows dust and crud in.
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Offline alanB

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #41 on: October 11, 2015, 10:09:04 am »


This is caused by misalignment of the oil pump little tab thingy that needs to fit in that slot when you tighten the clutch cover, very common issue on the Husky.  If you dont align the two, then its apparently very easy to break that slot when you tighten up the oilcase.

BTW, check that nut is good and tight, mine came loose and it took me (actually Conrad) a while to find the source of the knocking sound that resulted.

To answer your question.  Obviously none of us like the idea of a graunched part in our beautiful engines, but if the oil pump still engages and works properly, that's probably more a cosmetic injury than anything else.  Provided its not going to break off at a later date?
« Last Edit: October 11, 2015, 10:36:05 am by alanB »
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Offline alanB

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #42 on: October 11, 2015, 10:11:49 am »


This also very common on the Husky, its actually caused by the battery restraint IMO.  They use a silly little rubber band to hold the battery down.  this causes the battery to jack hammer those welds as you hit bumps etc and eventually the welds go.

I've used two really big cable ties and cranked the battery down really hard onto its support, so it cant bounce up and down.
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Offline alanB

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #43 on: October 11, 2015, 10:28:57 am »
Quote
Check the foot peg bolts and mating surfaces - often need to be flatted and high tensile bolts fitted.

I have a simple but unpopular fix for the bad footpeg plate/bolt design - just change the bolts regularly.

The design is bad in that the bolts have to withstand quite a bad bending moment because the peg plates dont have a nice wide flat surface to mate with, where the surface could absorb the bending moment and thus reduce the bending moment on the bolt.  As you ride you are basically constantly hammering on a lever arm with your whole body weight.  Its almost like working the bolt back and forth with continual impacts on a long lever.  The bolts have to withstand that on their own without any support from the frame.

No bolt, no matter how strong, is going to last in that environment IMO, without a crack developing and steadily growing.  Its a classic fatigue problem.

If you know anything about fatigue, its all about the number of cycles to failure.  The crack will develop at a steady rate, governed by the number of stress cycles it undergoes.  The bolt will eventually fail when the crack eats into the bolt to the point that the remaining surface area is insufficient to withstand the stress of the next cycle.  This takes a reasonably long time.

So all you need to do is routinely replace the bolts before then!

So I just put in new 8.8 bolts every six months or so.  Its cheap and easy, and effective.

Most people dont seem to like this idea though, so you see quite elaborate fixes proposed on some of the forums.  But without redesigning the frame to provide a wider flat mating surface between the peg plate and the frame its not really possible IMO, and there simply isnt enough space down there as far as I can see.  
« Last Edit: October 11, 2015, 12:17:44 pm by alanB »
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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #44 on: October 11, 2015, 10:54:51 am »
Alan you confirm my observations above  :thumleft: 

Unfortunately I do not agree with your take on the foot peg issue as you can take the foot pegs off and carefully dress the mating surfaces so that there is a proper full contact patch - not difficult with a bit of patience and a file (a Dremel tool is probably best). I did mine and replaced with HT spec bolts and Loctite - and have never needed to touch them again.
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Offline alanB

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #45 on: October 11, 2015, 11:04:09 am »
Each to his own  :thumleft:

I did say my solution was unpopular.

I would also suggest that if you take your footpeg bolts for crack testing, you might find that they are cracked.  I suspect all well ridden Husky footpeg bolts are cracked to some extent, regardless of what you do.

From what I've seen most people only experience footpeg bolt failure once, after owning the bike a long time.  So I think it takes a few years of hard riding for those bolts to eventually fail.

By replacing the bolts frequently you will never get to that point.

But anyway, use it/dont use it.

I just think my suggestion is a foolproof, cheap easy solution.  8)
« Last Edit: October 11, 2015, 11:43:28 am by alanB »
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #46 on: October 11, 2015, 02:15:18 pm »
Thanks for the help and pointers gents. I know that I am probably covering ground that you have already done, but I appreciate the assistance.

Ja, I played around with the oil pump alignment to that shat end slot. Very easy for a ham-fisted mechanic to use force putting the cover back without realising what he is breaking. The engine probably chewed that piece up as well. If so, then it is quite amazing how strong all the gears and teeth are - I have not yet seen any chipped or damaged gears.

Things are coming along nicely now. Taking the stuff yhat must be bead / sand blasted in tomorrow, followed by the aluminium welding, followed by the red anodising.

 

Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #47 on: October 11, 2015, 04:03:06 pm »
So was playing around with the clutch and also thinking about how I was going to tighten tge centre nut when finished with it when I remembered a clutch holding tool I made many moons back for my XR650R.

Went scratching around in the shed and found it buried under other stuff in the corner.  Tried it on the SM clutch centre and it fitted like a glove :biggrin:

Also received a mail from Dan regarding the washers -

Sorry Andre, no longer have any or plans to make any more.
Great motor! Enjoy the rebuild. I did my top end at 40,000 miles and the crank was still great.

Regards, Indy

So there you have it - will now get OEM washers and pins and then have Basil's engineering do the work for me.


 

Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #48 on: October 11, 2015, 04:40:42 pm »
There is another guy making the washers as well - I think he is the one who sells the rivets as a kit. Cafe Husky and AdvRider will have his details. Do not buy the OEM ones they will just wear again  ::) - you need the high grade hardened ones that these guys make. I will see if I can find his details - think he is in E.Europe.
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Offline alanB

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #49 on: October 11, 2015, 05:19:57 pm »
There is another guy making the washers as well - I think he is the one who sells the rivets as a kit. Cafe Husky and AdvRider will have his details. Do not buy the OEM ones they will just wear again  ::) - you need the high grade hardened ones that these guys make. I will see if I can find his details - think he is in E.Europe.

Ja I second that, rather get proper washers made.  You should never have parts in the engine self destructing the way those things do IMO.

I think Rough Rider had some made for him locally?  Maybe you could contact him.

If you ask Indy, he should be able to send you the material and heat treatment process he used - he sent it to me, but its on an old laptop, I may even have published it here somewhere. 

Shouldn't be difficult to get an engineering shop to machine some up out of suitable steel and heat treat them?

They arent very complex shapes or anything.

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Offline sidetrack

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #50 on: October 11, 2015, 06:01:06 pm »
I just gave the whole setup to Basils with the steel grade needed and they sorted it all out.
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #51 on: October 11, 2015, 06:04:19 pm »
I just gave the whole setup to Basils with the steel grade needed and they sorted it all out.

Ja, thinking of doing the same.

I am no engineer - what steel grade is needed for the washers and rivets?
 

Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #52 on: October 11, 2015, 07:00:03 pm »
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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #53 on: October 11, 2015, 07:19:02 pm »
OK I have PM'ed the other guy (_luke_) at Cafe Husky who was also making the cup washers. Lets see what he says. He is from Slovakia.
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #54 on: October 11, 2015, 07:59:49 pm »
Lots of info here in addition to Cafe Husky

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/husqvarna-te-sm-610-index-thread.156431/

Great thread that :thumleft:

OK I have PM'ed the other guy (_luke_) at Cafe Husky who was also making the cup washers. Lets see what he says. He is from Slovakia.

Thanks, much appreciated.
 

Offline alanB

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #55 on: October 11, 2015, 11:30:45 pm »
Here's the reply I got from Indy when I originally asked him about his washers

Quote
Hi Alan,
 
SAE4140 die steel material heated to 1200 degrees F with agitated oil quenching and then tempered at 700 degrees F to yield an approx  44RC hardness.
 
Tempering is necessary for the hammering application we have with the clutch to provide extra toughness
 
We then machine them to the finished dimensions.
 
Remember to use a vise to squeeze half the spring and cups while you slip the clutch hub over. The tap the spring to center it in the space and repeat for all 6 springs.
 
These babies will out last your bike!
 
I got 2 sets with over 50,000 km each on them and no signs of excessive wear.
 
Regards, Dan

From this thread http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=128417.0
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #56 on: October 12, 2015, 07:03:52 am »
Here's the reply I got from Indy when I originally asked him about his washers

Quote
Hi Alan,
 
SAE4140 die steel material heated to 1200 degrees F with agitated oil quenching and then tempered at 700 degrees F to yield an approx  44RC hardness.
 
Tempering is necessary for the hammering application we have with the clutch to provide extra toughness
 
We then machine them to the finished dimensions.
 
Remember to use a vise to squeeze half the spring and cups while you slip the clutch hub over. The tap the spring to center it in the space and repeat for all 6 springs.
 
These babies will out last your bike!

 
I got 2 sets with over 50,000 km each on them and no signs of excessive wear.
 
Regards, Dan

From this thread http://www.wilddog.za.net/forum/index.php?topic=128417.0

Thanks Alan :thumleft:
 

Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #57 on: October 12, 2015, 04:12:23 pm »
OK I have PM'ed the other guy (_luke_) at Cafe Husky who was also making the cup washers. Lets see what he says. He is from Slovakia.

Got a reply - he has washers. Waiting for price.  :thumleft:
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Offline Scrat

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #58 on: October 12, 2015, 05:06:27 pm »
OK I have PM'ed the other guy (_luke_) at Cafe Husky who was also making the cup washers. Lets see what he says. He is from Slovakia.

Got a reply - he has washers. Waiting for price.  :thumleft:

Hey - also interested in these washers if we can get a few.....  :pot:
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild thread
« Reply #59 on: October 12, 2015, 05:14:36 pm »
OK I have PM'ed the other guy (_luke_) at Cafe Husky who was also making the cup washers. Lets see what he says. He is from Slovakia.

Got a reply - he has washers. Waiting for price.  :thumleft:

Excellent, thanks :thumleft: