Author Topic: Kykdaar's SM610 rebuild and restore thread (Read 13099 times)

BiG DoM · « **Reply #181 on:** February 10, 2016, 07:40:03 pm »

So how did Francois the fuckupfixer magician get it out?

Kykdaar · « **Reply #182 on:** February 10, 2016, 08:09:07 pm »

BiG DoM · « **Reply #183 on:** February 10, 2016, 09:02:16 pm »

He fitted the Timesert as well I am guessing? So he drilled the out the old bolt rather than extracting it. I had an engineering firm recommended to me in PE who would get a stub out … I drove a 250km roundtrip and they fucked it up worse than I would have in an attempt to weld onto it - then broke an Easy Out off in it! I had said to them not to use an Easy Out as it will be impossible to drill if it breaks.

In the end I took it out of their hands and got in my car and fooked off home. I got it right in the end with great satisfaction and swearing but had to drill, tap and fit a Timesert.

Kykdaar · « **Reply #184 on:** February 10, 2016, 09:06:55 pm »

BiG DoM · « **Reply #185 on:** February 10, 2016, 09:36:26 pm »

You really need to make sure that the surfaces on the frame and footrest are flatted to mate as flush as possible and use HT bolts. This is where the weakness originates and has been documented on a few sites - the two surfaces are most often not true putting the entire force on the Italian spaghetti bolts … You really do not want them to fail while you are up on the pegs! I know alanB says rather just change the bolts regularly but my take is do a proper fix and rest assured. I used a Dremel tool and then a small file by hand and a black felt tip marker to check the mating surfaces were true … (where there is contact the marker is removed). With your frame stripped it should be even easier.

Kykdaar · « **Reply #186 on:** February 11, 2016, 08:48:01 am »

TK · « **Reply #187 on:** February 11, 2016, 11:46:58 pm »

I had one of the foot pegs come off on a Swaziland trip. Both HT bolts broke clean off.....even with having matted the surfaces previously. Managed to easyout the first one and then broke the easy out on the second one........fuck did I swear. Managed to drill the easyout out (probably a crap easyout) but damaged some of the threads. With that just made a decision to drill and tap all to M10.
Will probably change them out in a couple of months time.

BiG DoM · « **Reply #188 on:** February 12, 2016, 07:12:01 am »

Quote from: TK on February 11, 2016, 11:46:58 pm

I had one of the foot pegs come off on a Swaziland trip. Both HT bolts broke clean off.....even with having matted the surfaces previously. Managed to easyout the first one and then broke the easy out on the second one........fuck did I swear. Managed to drill the easyout out (probably a crap easyout) but damaged some of the threads. With that just made a decision to drill and tap all to M10.
Will probably change them out in a couple of months time.

I would be interested in the HT spec bolt you used for it to break clean off.

TK · « **Reply #189 on:** February 12, 2016, 07:57:30 am »

Sometimes HT is not the answer. I will have to look into that. Did contemplate S/S with a nice big head. Maybe rather have them bend than brake off. Gives a warning sign before you buy a farm.

Scrat · « **Reply #190 on:** February 12, 2016, 08:16:39 am »

Quote from: Kykdaar on February 11, 2016, 08:48:01 am

Quote from: BiG DoM on February 10, 2016, 09:36:26 pm
You really need to make sure that the surfaces on the frame and footrest are flatted to mate as flush as possible and use HT bolts. This is where the weakness originates and has been documented on a few sites - the two surfaces are most often not true putting the entire force on the Italian spaghetti bolts … You really do not want them to fail while you are up on the pegs! I know alanB says rather just change the bolts regularly but my take is do a proper fix and rest assured. I used a Dremel tool and then a small file by hand and a black felt tip marker to check the mating surfaces were true … (where there is contact the marker is removed). With your frame stripped it should be even easier.

Thanks, I will definitely do this whilst the frame is still bare and unpainted.

Had the same thing happen to me on the special stage of day 2 @ amageza last year!! luckily it was in the dunes and thus had a "soft" landing

Managed to find my footpeg in the sand and had to ride another 600km witout a righthand footpeg

managed to stuck a "kameeldoring branch" between frame and bashplate.... boer maak n plan!

needless to say we got to the bouviac that evening at 10:30 and Had to do some major planning to fix that damm footpeg. Eddy 2 Race came to the rescue and managed to magically get it sorted for me that evening before 12:00!! He's the Husky whisperer!

Kykdaar · « **Reply #191 on:** February 14, 2016, 06:45:19 pm »

Kykdaar · « **Reply #192 on:** February 14, 2016, 06:58:33 pm »

chopperpilot · « **Reply #193 on:** February 14, 2016, 07:45:07 pm »

Jy het my vote! Dalk omdat ek 'n Suzi fan ook is!

Blou rims is cool!

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Matie spero · « **Reply #194 on:** February 15, 2016, 11:42:50 am »

Quote from: Kykdaar on February 14, 2016, 06:45:19 pm

Finally got some quality time to spend with the bike.

Time to tackle the frame after the last stuck bolt was removed.

Was sandblasted some time ago and started forming some surface rust. Also quite a bit of residue powder coating needed removal - seems the sandblaster just assumed that the frame was qoing to be powder coated, so was not particularly thorough.

Got some real nasty paint stripper and went to work. If this stuff gets on your skin you drop everything and run for the soap and tap

So next step was to get rid of the rust. Used the stuff below and was very impressed - gets rid of rust pronto.

Only problem is that as soon as the frame is rinsed off, a thin coat of flash rust forms nearly immediately which is a bummer.

As soon as the frame dried it was time to break out the sanding paper, wire brush and steel wool. A few hours later the flash rust was off, the frame was clean and it was time to apply a few thin coats of grey primer to treat the frame

Still far from finished with it before final priming, but at least it wont rust.

Hahahaha sien dit het n child resistant cap. jy moes seker ekle keer vir ma gaan vra het om vir jou oop te maak!!!

alanB · « **Reply #195 on:** February 15, 2016, 01:58:59 pm »

As far as those footpeg bolts go - I know nobody likes to hear it, but the easiest solution is just to replace the bolts periodically (once a year should be fine, unless you are racing IMO).

The fact that the bolt broke off when you tried to take it out tells me it was probably cracked, quite badly before hand.

I bet you guys if you all take your existing bolts out and take them for crack testing at least 50% will be cracked!

Its a bad design that will just keep causing those bolts to crack IMO. That's not the end of the world, because it takes quite a long time for the cracks to grow big enough to become a problem. It costs about R5 to get new bolts and 10 minutes to replace them!

Straatkat · « **Reply #196 on:** February 15, 2016, 10:08:26 pm »

Alan, as always you have the most sensible solution, you really cannot argue with that logic!

BiG DoM · « **Reply #197 on:** February 16, 2016, 07:11:19 am »

My logic and basic physics tells me that properly mated contact surface areas will give a stronger fixture and not put as much pressure and leverage on the bolts. Larger diameter and/or HT bolts and/or replacing them as a service items are possible other work arounds.

Kykdaar · « **Reply #198 on:** February 17, 2016, 12:21:34 pm »

BiG DoM · « **Reply #199 on:** February 17, 2016, 01:34:15 pm »

Take it back for them to get that ripple out … will only stretch bigger