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Author Topic: Hydraulic clutch for 610  (Read 698 times)

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Offline Straatkat

Hydraulic clutch for 610
« on: October 17, 2015, 08:48:50 pm »
Does anybody know of a hydraulic clutch kit for our beloved 610's? An internet search came up with George from Uptite in the States that sells a kit, but can't the hydraulic clutch of a 630 work? Or is the engine completely different? To get the lever with a reservoir from a breaker is not difficult, and then fit the slave cylinder from the same donor bike.....am I barking up a tall tree here?
It sure would be nice to have a soft pull clutch on my Husky. It is influencing the whole feel of the bike. Makes it feel agricultural if that makes sense.
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #1 on: October 18, 2015, 08:17:39 am »
Mabe ask Blazes?

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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #2 on: October 18, 2015, 12:21:30 pm »
If the clutch is set up right and you have a good well rooted cable it is really a very smooth and quite soft pull. The 630 system adds bulk. I actually bought a hydraulic lever and compact slave cylinder off e-bay but have never fitted it may still. You will be surprised what a bit of servicing and tweaking can do. The cable that comes out the lever is often mis-aligned with the ferule and this is where friction starts (and the cable fails!) then down the bottom the entry angle of the cable to the lever mechanism is also often not straight/direct this can also be adjusted (I think I filed the bracket a bit). Lube or replace the cable and you will be surprised.
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Offline Straatkat

Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #3 on: October 18, 2015, 12:45:24 pm »
Thanks BD, I will look at that first. My lever is also short, maybe that is another factor.
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Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #4 on: October 19, 2015, 10:12:29 am »
610 is also finicky to correct routing and length. Must say I prefer a hydraulic clutch though, if you do a lot of technical riding the normal clutch will wear you out.
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Offline Straatkat

Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #5 on: October 20, 2015, 10:23:16 am »
The hydraulic clutch on my 950SE is so smooth and easy to pull, it makes the Husky feel positively agricultural by comparison. The rest of the bike is so nice and nimble but the clutch kinda spoils all that for me. Will try to align all the bits a bit better and lube the cable to see if it helps, think I have done it before, and replaced the cable with an easy pull one with a special liner to reduce friction. What can the master cylinder , reservoir and slave cylinder weigh? maybe a kilo or 2 at most. Might just give George a call and speak to him about it. Maybe even bring a kit back when next in the US.
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Offline BOER!

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Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #6 on: October 20, 2015, 01:31:42 pm »
I also found the clutch cable as if it is too long.  Coming of the 1200GS I found clutch Cables new thing to me.

When mine snapped during an outride, I had Blazes put in a bit more industrial cable for me, but also felt it was too long, and I simply could not adjust it more.  And could still not hook neutral 99% of the time.

So I added a 5 or 6mm aluminium washer close to the handle.  Sorted.  I love my clutch now.

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Offline BiG DoM

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Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #7 on: October 20, 2015, 02:09:53 pm »
One needs to be very careful of over adjusting these clutches - they do not like engaging neutral easily at idle as a norm. A bit of practice gets it right - either a blip and shift before stopping or sometimes just raising the revs slightly. The over adjustment (i.e. too tight) puts extra pressure on the actuator arm that will eventually fail and fracture (a well documented occurrence).
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Offline Kykdaar

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Re: Hydraulic clutch for 610
« Reply #8 on: October 20, 2015, 05:12:16 pm »
One needs to be very careful of over adjusting these clutches - they do not like engaging neutral easily at idle as a norm. A bit of practice gets it right - either a blip and shift before stopping or sometimes just raising the revs slightly. The over adjustment (i.e. too tight) puts extra pressure on the actuator arm that will eventually fail and fracture (a well documented occurrence).

That has also been my experience - when set to what I consider to be the correct position, gear selection is smooth up and down and you can easily slip it into neutral as you come cruising to a stop.

If you missed neutral and are in first, try as you might it will not engage neutral just by shifting - it just ends up in 2nd. I have to engage the clutch slightly as if I am going to pull away and then I can get neutral. Just one of the things with the 610. Both my bikes do the same.