Day 9 - part 2I have connected with my track at about 11. It was hot and the sand looked quite dry and intimidating so for a while I considered continuing on the dirt road (by now also just deep sand track) few more km to the Pomene lodge on the beach, taking the rest of the day off and starting again early next morning. But then I had to admit to myself that this resting was becoming a bit of a plague, costing me too much time so I turned left on the track and set-off north to Vilanculos. That track looked pretty remote and was basically one big dune field, mostly running through coastal bush, in places passing little homesteads and fields and in places running through forrests.
Came here accross another road heading towards Pomene:
Crossed that one and continued north on my much less used track. Soon I came across a settlement where I stopped to check the direction. There were few guys sitting there, most of them already pretty greased - it was holidays, so they were busy drinking from early morning. One of the guys spoke kind of English, but wasn't much help getting confused by my question whether the double track I was on leads to Vilanculos. To be fair it was typical stupid 'first world' question. People here naturally look for the easiest route which in thes case meant to head back to the main track to Pomene I came on and take that to tar and then on tar to Vilanculos - so that was his advice. The notion that there is such a thing a bored white snob who despises perfectly good tar and is actually looking for the hardest possible route was understandably lost on them. So I thanked him and to their confusion continued on my track.
Note the bike in the settlement - this is at least 30 km of deep sand away from closest dirt road. I have suspicion that this thing is better in sand than my Dakar replica:
This picture nicely sums up the level of understanding between us:
I pushed on - these forests were great as they provided shade and the sand was covered by leaves and branches making for much more relaxed ride:
I was making good progress, but not good enought to make it all the way to Vilanculos still at least 70-80 km away. At one point I got lost and had to backtrack to look for the right track, a local guy came for a chat. He spoke perfect English - quite a rarity here. He worked in Secunda in SA and was home for the holidays. He told me that white guy has some kind of place somewhere nearby along my route and recommended that I sleep over there. I wasn't yet looking for an overnight spot and expected to bush camp further up the road, but the image of steak and cold drinks caught my attention and I decided to give it a try. I got and impression that the place should not be far ahead and set-off. At each settlement I asked for the place and was directed just to continue on. Eventually I reached village with the name the local guy gave me and they just waved me on some single track into the bush - I fully expected that I'm tere, but I've spent another about 10 km navigating overgrown single and double tracks looking for the place checking with every local I came accros.
Doesn't look so, but I was chuffed with my progress:
The single track:
And barging into somebody's courtyard to check direction:
Finally on the main track eager to get to the lodge asap:
But of course getting to the beach means crossing dunes again:
I have made it to the lodge just as sun disappeared behind the horizon. The place was a set of interconnected luxury challets overseeing the beaches and ocean - it was nice upmarket private deveplopment with not guests in sight. Didn't look like the usual lodge with bar or restaurant. In the main house I found the owners - a South African couple Eddie and Courtney, and asked if I can stay over. Sure, they said and set me up in the adjacent luxury challet with one of those freestanding bathtubes in the room overseeing the ocean, white towels and stuff. This was way above the places I usually stay in and I could see that it will cost - but hey, I didn't care for one night.
Once settled in I went to ask if there is any chance to get food. Sure, again they said and invited me to their house where Eddie first fed me 5 - 6 beers and then we had a dinner of fantastic chicken curry they have made. We chatted about many things, but the topic of the day was Eddie's spearfishing trip earlier that day. Somehow he and his pilot underestimated wind or swell or something, didn't take enough petrol and barely made it back almost getting swept out into the ocean. I'm not an ocean/sea person and am always surprised how easy can beautifull turquoise to my eye mellow water kill you.
After dinner they were heading for a party with some friends in another lodge up the coast and I was keen to hit the bed beat from the hot sandy day. I wanted to head off early in the morning so I asked how much do I owe them. Eddie just scratched his head and said that this is actually not a lodge but their private holiday property which they use for holidays with their friends, hence he has absolutely no clue what to charge so let's just forget it. Nice. So dirty and smelly from a day's riding in the African sun and sand talking in weird accent I have barged into somebody private house in the middle of Mozambican bush, and without batting and eyelid they lodged me, fed me got me somewhat drunk to enjoy nice sleep in clean sheets.
Of course I protested, feeling awkward about abusing their hospitality, but they persevered, so I got away with a free night in great company and in luxury accomodation. It is really nice to know that there are still generous and hospitable people like Eddie and Courtney out there.
Topic: Christmas Safari 3 - Mozambique & Zimbabwe (Read 33764 times)
