Archie's TE610 thread - Now for sale (R45k)

[Kykdaar]

If you really want to be up shit creek buy yourself a BMW

[Archangel]

If you really want to be up shit creek buy yourself a BMW

Been there, PAID for the T-shirt and some... Had a 650 Funduro, which ended up with a busted sprag clutch and a cracked barrel. Had to rebuild the motor!

[sidetrack]

Hahaha - the joys of owning an Italian bike.

She will make up for it later

True that  Don't think I ever worked so much on a bike than my 610, but still worth it when I did some lekker trips with it.

[BiG DoM]

If you really want to be up shit creek buy yourself a BMW

Been there, PAID for the T-shirt and some... Had a 650 Funduro, which ended up with a busted sprag clutch and a cracked barrel. Had to rebuild the motor!

Well fuck me then you are unlucky - or the previous owner naaied it to death. I had a Funduro and they are bulletproof - they put that Rotax engine in microlights for a reason.  Loved that bike.

Regarding the cable - take it off and take it to Cableman or other cable people. They will duplicate it for a fraction of the cost of an OEM and quickly. They can even uprate it's strength a bit with a better cable. I had two made while about it. When you refit it check the alignment at the knurnled adjusting knob ... it can wear there. One can tweak it to eliminate the friction. 

[Archangel]

Well fuck me then you are unlucky - or the previous owner naaied it to death. I had a Funduro and they are bulletproof - they put that Rotax engine in microlights for a reason.  Loved that bike.

Regarding the cable - take it off and take it to Cableman or other cable people. They will duplicate it for a fraction of the cost of an OEM and quickly. They can even uprate it's strength a bit with a better cable. I had two made while about it. When you refit it check the alignment at the knurnled adjusting knob ... it can wear there. One can tweak it to eliminate the friction. 

I'll blame it on luck. Or the lack thereof...

As for the new cable, I'll definitely use Cableman. I've used them before and I was very happy with their work. For now, I'm tempted to give the repair a go myself as a temporary solution...

[BiG DoM]

To repair that cable you would need either
1) a cable repair nipple - great to carry with one in a tool roll. Consists of a nipple with a threaded screw to nip the cable and hold it in place) I bought a few from our Cableman but there are commercial sets from MotionPro etc)
2) ability to be able to silver solder or braze a nipple on the end of the cable.

 

[sidetrack]

Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610 

[BiG DoM]

Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610 

There is a conversion like on the 630 but hardly worth it. A well oiled and serviced cable works just fine imho.

[sidetrack]

Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610 

There is a conversion like on the 630 but hardly worth it. A well oiled and serviced cable works just fine imho.

But the pull will always be harder and not as responsive as hydraulic unit. I once rode some technical stuff once and my hands were stuffed (same happened on a CRF). But agree it's nit picking and not the everyday terrain you will encounter with the 610.

[Archangel]

So here's my temporary solution, giving Cableman a few days breathing space...

Step 1: Drill out old nipple, ensuring that it has a small hole in the back and more space on the front side.

Step 2: Fit nipple over existing cable, small side first.

Step 3: Create End Stop and pull into nipple, causing it to jam into place.

Step 4: Solder into place for further strengthening.

Step 5: Re-fit cable. Play loud music or make sure that it's really windy (as in this case) so that the neighbhours can't hear you swear and shout.

Step 6: Get proper cable from trustworthy suppliers ASAP.

[BiG DoM]

Or just nip a nipple 

[Archangel]

Or just nip a nipple 

Will hopefully be prepared next time. 

[BiG DoM]

Just remember over time the sleeve wears as well so even if you replace the actual cable it may wear prematurely. Hydraulic would have been nice on the 610 

There is a conversion like on the 630 but hardly worth it. A well oiled and serviced cable works just fine imho.

But the pull will always be harder and not as responsive as hydraulic unit. I once rode some technical stuff once and my hands were stuffed (same happened on a CRF). But agree it's nit picking and not the everyday terrain you will encounter with the 610.

I actually have a 630 hydraulic lever setup bought off e-bay some time back - just need to mod it into place at the casing. A 'to do' project that has got away from me thus far - maybe these holidays?

[Scrat]

Hey there,

Ek het vi jou n clutch cable..
kas bier en hy is joune 

[Archangel]

Hey there,

Ek het vi jou n clutch cable..
kas bier en hy is joune 

Thanks, sal jou opneem op daai aanbod! Sien later...

BTW, made it to work this morning. I'm thinking that this fix is stronger than I anticipated. However, I'll definitely go for a replacement just for peace of mind.

[BiG DoM]

Hey there,

Ek het vi jou n clutch cable..
kas bier en hy is joune 

Thanks, sal jou opneem op daai aanbod! Sien later...

BTW, made it to work this morning. I'm thinking that this fix is stronger than I anticipated. However, I'll definitely go for a replacement just for peace of mind.

What you did is a pretty common and acceptable fix - so long as the soldering/brazing is good there is no reason it should not last for some time (so long as the rest of the cable is good and lubed). A cable oiler is a good thang to have 

[Archangel]

Fitted the new (old) cable today and it works fine... (Thanks Scrat!!!)

Only thing I'm worried about is that this nipple is much smaller than the one of the previous cable, resulting in more play which could ultimately lead to quicker failure.

I'm contemplating fitting something around (heat shrink or similar) to remove some of the free movement of the nipple inside the fitting of the lever.

[Archangel]

So the fun continues...

We went to the dunes with some family and I wasn't riding the Husky. When we got back, I noticed that the gear lever was oddly out of position. I though it just turned around the outside of the gear shaft assembly, but after inspection I saw that the lever and the shaft were fully connected. I was worried... 

After ripping open the side cover, this is what I found!!!

<a href="https://www.youtube.com/v/rfNEgx-GEHM" target="_blank" class="new_win">https://www.youtube.com/v/rfNEgx-GEHM</a>

Looks like something stomped the gear lever REALLY hard and broke the shaft out of the gear changing mechanism. 


So now I'm waiting for this unit again.

[Archangel]

Any idea of whether this can be removed and replaced without stripping the motor?

[BiG DoM]

Looks like it could be welded in situ (and may even have been done before?). Needs to be cleaned up and well marked to allow for a quick accurate weld so as not to transfer too much heat and probably cooled down quickly as well. That would be my first try.