Archie's TE610 thread - Now for sale (R45k)

[BiG DoM]

That rack does not support the rear subframe! It WILL fail with that pizza box on it (even with nothing in it)! If you are going to put ANYTHING on the rack other than a rain suit you must have that subframe gusseted. I may have mentioned this before? Go look on Cafe Husky. 

[Archangel]

The rack mounts to the frame where the footpegs go and then on the back where the luggage plate is, essentially providing triangular reinforcement and  prevents it from pivoting. Or so I thought...

BiG DoM, do you have experience with a luggage rack like that which failed? Other input welcome!!!

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[BiG DoM]

The rack mounts to the frame where the footpegs go and then on the back where the luggage plate is, essentially providing triangular reinforcement and  prevents it from pivoting. Or so I thought...

BiG DoM, do you have experience with a luggage rack like that which failed? Other input welcome!!!

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Many reported failures of alu rear sub frames on these and many other 'plasticy DS bikes'. I had not seen/remembered the photos with the side racks … only with them removed and just the rear top box. I am not convinced that the side racks will support the tail rack effectively without transferring vibration that inevitably leads to fracture … but then it may work as I have not seen the construction. Some may think the racks also add protection but  could also transfer forces to RSF if dropped Personally I would loose the racks as add extra weight (I use a GL Coyote on mine with no issue) and just gusset the RSF if you want a rear rack. Less is more imo.

[Archangel]

I desperately wanted to strengthen the subframe as I had failures on my 450/525  and 950. They are probably less than 4kg and the though of added bike protection did cross my mind.

My gut feeling was that it would transfer some of the weight to the footpeg mountings. I guess the jury is still out on this one...

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[BiG DoM]

I guess some weight will get transferred there (the rider foot pegs mountings are already suspect, well the bolts and the mating surfaces) but the cantilever whip effect of the rear carrier is still largely behind where the pannier frames connects  I must say I have always eyed these Moto Billet carriers (and there is a version with sides as well) as they are sexy but not allowed myself to be seduced by them. I fitted a small TT carrier to the mudguard and a small strap on Kriega bag for light stuff. I take this off sometimes to fit a Nomad bum tank if I need extra fuel range. I strengthened the aluminium frame under the rear mudguard with alu angle iron pop-rivetted on. As I say I use a GL bag that rests the weight on the back of the seat and then low down and forward.

[sidetrack]

Check the battery tray too, they like to crack as well. I put two large cable ties to help keep the battery in place.

[Archangel]

Will definitely check the battery tray. Didn't get to work on the bike over the weekend, hence no pics or progress.

This might be a stupid question, but would the clutch lever switch which has to be pulled in order for the starter motor to engage, prevent the bike from being push or run started?

Has anyone had issues with this or bypassed their clutch lever switch?

Another question: Has anyone had issues where if you set the gear lever high enough for your boot to fit in, it pushes against the chain on the upshift?

Or does everyone else have midget feet?

[BiG DoM]

I have by-passed/bridged the clutch idiot switch 

[chopperpilot]

Will definitely check the battery tray. Didn't get to work on the bike over the weekend, hence no pics or progress.

This might be a stupid question, but would the clutch lever switch which has to be pulled in order for the starter motor to engage, prevent the bike from being push or run started?

Has anyone had issues with this or bypassed their clutch lever switch?

Another question: Has anyone had issues where if you set the gear lever high enough for your boot to fit in, it pushes against the chain on the upshift?

Or does everyone else have midget feet?

I adjusted the lever one spline up for the Tech 7 boots, which don't have a lip.

Only experienced it touching the black plastic chain/sprocket guard, when shifting up.

Sanded that with a flap disc, till it cleared.

Will double check the chain clearance!

[Archangel]

So here's my new rear end...

Our ginger cat doing the final QC inspection. 

[Archangel]

And as for the rear luggage carrier rack.

I think that I'll figure out a way to move the rear beam to where I've indicated to provide extra carrying strength, because at the moment, it doesn't do much...

[Archangel]

I've actually filed a couple of mm down on the lever itself, but it still touches the chain on the upshift... 

This is what the LC8 gear lever looks like:



You'll see that it has a deeper trough to allow clearance. Unfortunately they don't fit on the Husky, as they've got the bolt that screws into the middle as opposed to the clamp type that goes around the shaft. I've had a look at a bunch of other options, but can't find anything of the shelf that'll solve my problem.

Here's what I did to the little plastic cover anyways.

[chopperpilot]

I have the Tech 7 boots, which have a molded sole, so no lip to aid in gear changes.

I moved the lever one spline up.

I can easily gear up, but have to lift my boot for the down changes.

There is ample space to the chain, with the lever fully up.

I do have aftermarket footpegs, but comparing them to the OEM, there doesn't seem any difference in the height of the different pegs.

Wont you be able to do gearchanges with the lever in a lower position?




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[Archangel]

I have the Tech 7 boots, which have a molded sole, so no lip to aid in gear changes.

I moved the lever one spline up.

I can easily gear up, but have to lift my boot for the down changes.

There is ample space to the chain, with the lever fully up.

I do have aftermarket footpegs, but comparing them to the OEM, there doesn't seem any difference in the height of the different pegs.

Wont you be able to do gearchanges with the lever in a lower position?

Problem is that when I'm riding, my boots often accidentally nudge gear lever either into a false neutral or into a higher gear.

I like to be intentional about gear shifting. 

Anyways, on the maintenance side, some of you might remember this...



If you don't know the story, click here to read the ride report.   

So it's a coupla phone calls and a number of pop-ins. Luke (from Eddy2Race) said that due to the fact that these models are discontinued, they don't keep stock and lead times should be around 6 weeks. I finally got the right sprocket from TracMac in Bellville, after their system said they didn't have. They had a different one (46T), so I asked if I can see it anyways. Bob's your uncle, it was the correct one which was obviously incorrectly booked into their system.

I decided to stick to the original ratio of 15/45 for now. When I took of the original rear sprocket, I noticed that it is aluminium. The PBR is cast iron (much heavier), so I'm guessing it should last a bit longer?

Side Note: Renz is moving premesis from Montague Gardens to Bellville/Durbanville area, so they have some pretty good specials at the moment. Paid R720 for the EK x-ring chain.

[sidetrack]

So here's my new rear end...

Our ginger cat doing the final QC inspection. 

Are you going to de-cat the exhaust ?

[Archangel]

So here's my new rear end...

Our ginger cat doing the final QC inspection. 

Are you going to de-cat the exhaust ?

I haven't decided yet. Some part of me thinks that loads of R&D goes into the original design, with lambda sensors and fueling etc, so it would be silly to bugger around with that. Same applies to the PowerUp mod.

On the other hand, I've seen noticeable improvements on some of my other (older) bikes when changing silencers and fueling/tuning. At the moment, it's not a big NEED and I'm content with a little quieter bike (had complaints from neighbors about my 950).

[Straatkat]

Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route.

[chopperpilot]

Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route.

Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


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[BiG DoM]

Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route.

Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


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Agreed got a TE610 with the full mods and a Subie XT (not to mention a HP2) 

[chopperpilot]

Arch, if you are happy with a really pap Husky then by all means don't go the power up and decat route.

Once he reaches our age Bertie, he'll do all mods, including the JD Tuner!🙀

You only live once! 😉

On the recent Swazi Hard Core Ride, Lee on his 690 could not pull away from me, from a 1st gear hard gravel rolling start! 🙀👍👍

Archie, once you turn 50, ready yourself for a Chett Tuned Subaru Forester 2.5 XT! 🙀🙀🙀


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Agreed got a TE610 with the full mods and a Subie XT (not to mention a HP2) 

Bertie has the 950 SE, and of course his Aprilia trac bike!🙀🙀

Myself...a mint 990R...🙀🙀🙀


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