Archie's TE610 thread - Now for sale (R45k)

[Welsh]

Airbox threaded inserts

2 out of 4 of mine have stripped out. How did you guys fix them? Just put a bolt all the way through?

Going to be fiddly to remove cover, how about new inserts ?

Will surely just strip out again? I'm a fan of fixing the design, rather than running into the same issue over and over.

I might try to permanently fit a proper nut into the tube where the inserts went. Not sure how yet.

It was suggested to tighten screws only slightly with copper grease on the threads. They should have used those half turn d type screws.

DZUS ?

[Archangel]

DZUS ?

Yes, something like this...

[sidetrack]

Yes that's the one

[BiG DoM]

I was wondering about that. Did you fit an aftermarket filter? Pics please!!!

I had something like this in mind...


[/quote]

No that would be fine for a SM but not what I wanted due to water crossings etc. I routed a pod filter under seat and made space by using an Ultrabatt.

[Archangel]

DZUS ?

Yes, something like this...

So I've gotten hold of the distributors in JHB (Astra Fasteners in Boksburg, apparently the only in RSA?) and they informed me that these units are R70 for a set!

Apparently because it's aviation grade... 

[sidetrack]

DZUS ?

Yes, something like this...

So I've gotten hold of the distributors in JHB (Astra Fasteners in Boksburg, apparently the only in RSA?) and they informed me that these units are R70 for a set!

Apparently because it's aviation grade... 

Still a bargain, can hardly buy a Nando's meal for that price and it's gone in sixty seconds 

[BiG DoM]

Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

[Archangel]

Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

I went on the lookout for them and they have similar ones on specifically the BMW 1200 GS and on Honda XR650L, probably the other models too.

Although this might be the best long term solution, I have fixed the problem for now.

My solution? A Square Peg in a Round Hole  

The flat square nut pulls into the barrel and edges itself into the plastic, preventing itself from turning. There's a convenient little shoulder at the very end of the barrel that prevents it from pulling through.

I'll still have a look at other options, as I'm sure that the quarter turn D-link setup will be a better permanent solution, but this will do for now.

[Archangel]

Now for the spark plug boffins...

The plug that I removed was an NGK CPR88EIX, which is an Iridium spark plug. The parts manual just prescribes the NGK CPR8E range and I couldn't find the Iridium ones from anybody in the Cape Town area, so I grabbed the CPR8EK.

I'm guessing that it will be close enough to run and even though the Iridium one is supposedly better, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference?

[EDIT] Found this thread on AdvRider that talks about the differences. Looks like it might be worth serching for those Iridium plugs after all...

[Archangel]

I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

[BiG DoM]

Now for the spark plug boffins...

The plug that I removed was an NGK CPR88EIX, which is an Iridium spark plug. The parts manual just prescribes the NGK CPR8E range and I couldn't find the Iridium ones from anybody in the Cape Town area, so I grabbed the CPR8EK.

I'm guessing that it will be close enough to run and even though the Iridium one is supposedly better, I probably wouldn't be able to tell the difference?

[EDIT] Found this thread on AdvRider that talks about the differences. Looks like it might be worth serching for those Iridium plugs after all...

I do use the iridium plugs most often but a lot of the hype is just that - hype. The main advantage of an iridium plug is really only that it lasts longer due to the material used for the electrode.

[BiG DoM]

Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

I went on the lookout for them and they have similar ones on specifically the BMW 1200 GS and on Honda XR650L, probably the other models too.

Although this might be the best long term solution, I have fixed the problem for now.

My solution? A Square Peg in a Round Hole  

The flat square nut pulls into the barrel and edges itself into the plastic, preventing itself from turning. There's a convenient little shoulder at the very end of the barrel that prevents it from pulling through.

I'll still have a look at other options, as I'm sure that the quarter turn D-link setup will be a better permanent solution, but this will do for now.

[Welsh]

I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

Is it just me or is that a crack in the frame?   OK worked it out its just the light effect at the edge of the reinforcement.

[BiG DoM]

Yes they are the distributors - I did a group buy from them for Dzus fasteners for the HP2 seat for HP2 guys a few years back. You get a variety of types of fasteners and lengths = nonD-ring etc. Important to do your homework first as to the specs you need. You may find some off the shelf similar fasteners at bike shops that are knock offs used for fairings etc that may be cheaper.

I went on the lookout for them and they have similar ones on specifically the BMW 1200 GS and on Honda XR650L, probably the other models too.

Although this might be the best long term solution, I have fixed the problem for now.

My solution? A Square Peg in a Round Hole  

The flat square nut pulls into the barrel and edges itself into the plastic, preventing itself from turning. There's a convenient little shoulder at the very end of the barrel that prevents it from pulling through.

I'll still have a look at other options, as I'm sure that the quarter turn D-link setup will be a better permanent solution, but this will do for now.

Looks like a good fix - I would be tempted add some Q-Bond in the gaps around the square bolt (screw in a sacrificial bolt to ensure one gets in the thread). Nice thing is you can get the powder exactly where you want it before adding the catalyst/superglue. Q-Bond is a must have in any workshop.  

[BiG DoM]

I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

Is it just me or is that a crack in the frame?  

It is just you and your ageing eyesight!   That is the edge of the mounting bracket … look on the other side and you will see. Yes is a bit of an optical illusion  

[Welsh]

I also checked the battery holder and the engine mounting bracket and nuts.

The battery bracket was still in good condition and not showing any signs of stresses or cracks.

The mounting bracket nuts look like they are nylock nuts. It looks like it's the originals and they were nice and tight, so I didn't even bother any further.

Is it just me or is that a crack in the frame?  

It is just you and your ageing eyesight!   That is the edge of the mounting bracket … look on the other side and you will see. Yes is a bit of an optical illusion  

Getting old is not for sissies. 3 Weeks since I hit the ground hard, the purple bruise are starting to fade and the collarbone is out of the sling, but us old toppies don't bounce so well any more. Funniest reaction was from one of the works managers, who was quite impressed that I could still ride offroad....

[Archangel]

I do use the iridium plugs most often but a lot of the hype is just that - hype. The main advantage of an iridium plug is really only that it lasts longer due to the material used for the electrode.

My thoughts exactly.

As for the Q-bond on the airbox cover in the barrels where the square nuts are - that would turn this into a permanent fix and going backwards from there would be near impossible without breaking the plastic, so I'm going to leave this as it stands.

This temporarily solution will be good enough (easy, clean, cheap) until I figure out what I want to do as a permanent solution. I'm still tempted to go the filter route that you proposed, but I might do it a bit different. For now, I just want to get the bike on the road again...

[Rough Rider]

There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.

[Archangel]

There is such an easy fix to the airbox inserts.
Heat the bolt up using a blow torch, thread it into the insert and pull the insert out. Cut a little bit of plastic from something, I used an old barkbuster, and push it into the hole. Heat the insert with the bolt screwed into it and push it back into the hole and then mold the edges of the hot plastic with a screwdriver. An even better solution is to acquire better quality inserts and do the same.

And you think that it's an easier/quicker fix than my square bolt solution?

[Kykdaar]

I "fixed" mine with Sikadur AP All Purpose Epoxy Adhesive Paste.

I use inverted comas as I haven't tested the end result yet, but it seems very strong