Archie's TE610 thread - Now for sale (R45k)

[Archangel]

Let's see if it holds...



It's not the best welding job in the world, but it's really hard to get in there!

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[Straatkat]

Maybe a bit late now, but you get welding rods for problem materials (read hard-enable steel) that will not crack off when welding dissimilar metals. Maybe worth running a bead of that around there. Normal rods have a nasty habit of cracking when welding metal alloys.

[Archangel]

Let's see if it holds...

So the answer is that it help up for about 3 months before failing at the furthest point I've been away from home during these past months... 

Luckily I could nurse it back home through 400km of Tankwa gravel roads. But now the question again, can I replace without splitting the motor. Perhaps Tito can help, now that Straatkat's motor is out in the open?

[sidetrack]

Let's see if it holds...

So the answer is that it help up for about 3 months before failing at the furthest point I've been away from home during these past months... 

Luckily I could nurse it back home through 400km of Tankwa gravel roads. But now the question again, can I replace without splitting the motor. Perhaps Tito can help, now that Straatkat's motor is out in the open?

You can only patch so much before needing to replace the parts. I would not have confidence in the bike if it was just welded like that 

[Archangel]

Ordered these parts today. 

[BiG DoM]

Requires engine split?

[Welsh]

Requires engine split?

Cannot see why it would? 

[Archangel]

Time will tell...

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[Welsh]

Time will tell...

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Part numbers 1, 5 and 4 are visible in the photograph, so I cannot see why the cases would require to be split. 

[BiG DoM]

Time will tell...

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Part numbers 1, 5 and 4 are visible in the photograph, so I cannot see why the cases would require to be split. 

Tend to agree - was initially worried about that spring but see it is outboard.

[Kykdaar]

No engine split required

[BiG DoM]

Personally I would still try and get a good weld on there, even TIG, and maybe pull the shaft to do it. I am guessing it was a press fit with a weld anyway.

[Welsh]

Personally I would still try and get a good weld on there, even TIG, and maybe pull the shaft to do it. I am guessing it was a press fit with a weld anyway.

Pull it weld it, heat it to 600 degrees let it cool slowly refit. 

[Archangel]

While fixing the gear selector and rear shock, I took off all the additional frames, racks, screen, lights etc, put it in all together and weighed it.

It came up to around 12kg of extra dead weight being lugged around. That's just under 10% of the bike's overall weight.

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[Straatkat]

You need some of that stuff. Cannot ride just wheels and engine. Bet you I can strip my 610 down to around the 120kg mark....but then it would be more of a trials bike.

[Archangel]

Picked up the gear selector shaft, bushes and springs so will give it a bash tonight and see how it all turns out...   

[Archangel]

OK, so it's all done and looks like she's running fine again.

Some things to note if you ever have to go through this (which I suppose it's highly unlikely):

It's a good idea to drain the oil before you do this, but not absolutely necessary.
You have to remove the entire clutch basket to be able to pull the selector.
You only really need the actual selector. It's a good idea to replace the rubber seal on the other side of the motor. None of the other bushes or springs were needed in this case.
The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.





It's usually a good idea to replace the oil filler cap before starting the bike. 




The gear shifting does feel a tiny bit tighter at the moment, but I'm sure once the new surfaces have "mated", it will be 100%.

Oh, and I replaced the serviced rear shock too. 

[M3X3Z3]

The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

[

I seem to remember back in +- 2011 there was a factory recall on the gear selector input shaft for the TE630 and SM630 (the 630 having the same bottom end as the 610).
The new replacement part had a slightly longer shaft.

[Archangel]

The new selector shaft is a couple of mm longer than the original (not sure if this was an upgrade or mistake), so it's a bit of a mission to re-position the foot lever, as you have to make space by loosening the chain.

I seem to remember back in +- 2011 there was a factory recall on the gear selector input shaft for the TE630 and SM630 (the 630 having the same bottom end as the 610).
The new replacement part had a slightly longer shaft.

Thanks for the info! Good to know. 

[Kykdaar]

  glad you sorted and had a good laugh regarding the filler cap