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Author Topic: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe  (Read 19033 times)

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Online dirtyXT

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #40 on: September 30, 2016, 02:35:49 pm »
 :sip: enjoying this!
Bike history:
Ital jet 50 - sold, DT 50 - scrapped - AR80 - sold DT185 - confiscated  KDX250 - sold ZZR400 - sold KX500 - XT660R Swapped for R1 YZF R1 - sold - XT660Z - sold

 

Offline MiniDan

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #41 on: September 30, 2016, 04:15:10 pm »
 :sip: - Sub

  :thumleft: - Looks amazing

 :ricky: - En lekker ry
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #42 on: September 30, 2016, 05:11:33 pm »
Thanks guys and gals - on we go

Riding Day 12 Blantyre to Cape Maclear

I left Doogles good an early thinking I should be at Fat Monkeys nice and early in time for a sun downer beer and my first swim in Lake Malawi ... Again the road conditions in the first section up to Zomba are good and the scenery beautiful with the Zomba mountains (?) appearing .

The Malawi cops are very well mannered and other than inquiring about your health and your day with a big smile don't much bother you , I guess smiling back and being polite helps too ,



Pitstop for a few laughs and a cold drink - there are lots of small towns in this are of Malawi and always if you approach people with a smile - huge ones are returned



My daily sustenance while traveling consisted mostly of fruit with the occasional fried cassava thrown in - traveling alone I always loved the brief company of the vege/fruit sellers and the bike always had them talking and trying to photograph themselves near it , yip even in dirt poor Malawi the guys still wanted a selfie with a bike for their FB profile



I struggled initially with the kids - they immediately said 'give me ' whenever I stopped - its a poor country and I resolved to always buy extra fruit to hand out ..



As in Mozambique cell phone towers announced towns in the distance



Approaching Mangochi I was quite mesmerized with the tree lined roads



I had spent too much time with the kids and fruit sellers along the way and sunset was coming , its my best time for biking , the colours always get amazing and there is something about the lengthening shadows of me on the bike that always gives me such a free feeling - its also a dangerous time to phaff around as night is approaching and well riding at night in Africa .....







How can you not stop and take this in .... Africa you beauty





Anyways needless to say I did the Mangochi to Cape Maclear road in the night - its a bit of a complex dirt road with corrugations and lots of ups and downs and way after sunset I arrived at Fat Monkeys - I got my beer but not my swim ......
Waking up too this wasn't too shabby either





Some things came up in my being in the course of the morning , I had this sense of a massive separation between me and the local people , Fat Monkeys campsite keeps the lights on all night and is fenced off from the beach , I guess this is for safety but it does make for a surreal camping experience . The camping solution at Fat monkeys felt removed from the world and the experience diluted by the fencing , the bar was playing American action flicks at high volume - not my scene really ..... anyways I wander in words here - back to Cape Maclear ..

Its a fishing community and the people work hard to extract what few fish must be left at this side of the lake





On moonless nights the boats are out in their hundreds with lighting attracting the fish








 

« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 05:13:07 pm by shanti »
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #43 on: September 30, 2016, 05:25:16 pm »
Riding Day 13 Cape Maclear to Senga Bay

I didn't quite get the vibe at Fat Monkeys so decided to head out early the next day . North was calling with the promise of cob ..

Bye Fat Monkeys - maybe with a big crowd it might have been better



Heading north on the corrugated dirt road I have tackled a few nights previous







Riding the dirt roads of Malawi is always interesting and nothing like being on a bike to get rid of introspective blues





The road again turned to tar but the scenery was as beautiful as always



I got to Cool Runnings in good time and settled in again in a fenced off garden . Even with this divide there was an immediate change - the owner of cool runnings a South African woman called Sam who I remembered from Cool Runnings in CPT is doing amazing work with the local community and spending time chatting to the volunteers from all over the world who gravitate to her place was a breath of fresh air and very inspiring to see - yes one person can make a difference .



Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #44 on: September 30, 2016, 05:41:01 pm »
Riding Day 14 Senga Bay - Lilongwe airport - Senga Bay

Helene my love had decided that my journey of bar research wasn't going to be a singular thing so had booked a flight up to Lilongwe to accompany me for the next few weeks and I headed out to pick her up .
Again the roads are good from Senga bay to the airport . I had given strict instructions on her packing and she did remarkably well and fitting her and her luggage onto the bike at Cool Runnings when we got back proved very easy - yay my maaitjie was with me ....

She did get a bit of a wild arrival into the Malawi pub scene - we found a rasta bar in Salima and she eventually had to drag me away - so much for making a good impression for day one .





Kuche Kuche ahoy ....   


Offline arrowfeather

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #45 on: September 30, 2016, 05:46:43 pm »
 :thumleft:
XL500S - sold
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CRF1000l AT - sweet geezus
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #46 on: September 30, 2016, 07:45:25 pm »
Riding Day 15 Senga Bay to Makuzi Beach Lodge ( Chintheche )

We had heard of a place called Makuzi Beach Lodge while in Senga Bay and we decided to head up there . Having an over the shoulder camera holder now on the bike meant we could get some interesting images of some of the chaos on the way up



The road north to Chintheche is fairly uninteresting , it being in good condition and the scenery flat . The only thing to look out for is the old bailey bridges that span some of the little sand rivers , they have sharp edges and could wreak havoc with your tyres if you arnt paying attention

Some brick making on route - this is quite a common sight in Malawi



Biking is not really Helene's thing and we had to stop quite often to rest , as the journey progressed she would love it more and more and is now even suggesting bike rides for the two of us



North of Nkhotakota the road gets more interesting and some of the views of the lake are spectacular . Eventually we reached the turn off for Makuzi Beach Lodge , touring the lake of Malawi you are always faced with a sand road at the end of the day , some short , some long and in this case a 4km sandy road winding its way through a village and down to the bay . Helene and I were still coming to grips with 2 up sand riding and we took a few slow speed tumbles - we would get better but for now Helene elected to walk some of the deeper sections .



Makuzi Beach Lodge is AMAZING !!!! and for any of you heading up to that part of the world I don't think you can get better beach camping in Malawi - waking up here with my love was icing on a beautiful cake



and the bike got to enjoy a few joys of womanly company too ..



A view of the bay , bar and campsite from the water



Sunrise over Lake Malawi - heaven ..



ET phone home .. we were having lots of fun and spent quite a few daze here



Helene being more spiritual about the whole thing


« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 07:58:03 pm by shanti »
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #47 on: September 30, 2016, 07:52:23 pm »
Still here at Makuzi and the artist in me got to have some fun too ...



I took to snorkeling like a fish in water and my skin almost turned permanently wrinkled - time to move on before we grew fins



Bye Makuzi Beach Lodge - can't say enough about this place - the hosts Lara and Brett are two of the nicest people that I have ever met - they eventually let us stay in one of their beautiful beach houses for a very good price - they have yoga there to if you are that way inclined


 
« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 07:58:26 pm by shanti »
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #48 on: September 30, 2016, 08:17:11 pm »
Riding Day 16 Makuzi Beach to Sangilo Sanctuary Lodge ( Chilumba )

Brett had recommended that if we are going further north and were still into the beach lifestyle we should head for Sangilo which was made famous by the long way down crew and described by Ewan Mcgregor as the perfect beach hang out . The road north is Fantastic - after Nkhata Bay you head into the rubber plantations 



Here we purchased a rubber ball - yip one of the most appropriate things to have on a two up bike journey -- was it the cob ?



funny how people sometimes take on the spirit of their job , this guy was turning into a rubber ball - damn that cob !



Any journey through Malawi is not complete without the obligatory Sobo cherry plum , sweet joy in a bottle



Shopping for supplies on the Nkhata bay to Mzuzu stretch - its a beautiful windy stretch going through mountains



Riding along in a blissful state can sometimes lead to fuel miscalculations - you pay a little over normal price for these fuel stops but the guys are doing brisk business and the fuel is good and clean 



To add to our growing collection of rubber balls and other silliness Helene now had decided that cloth shopping was on the cards - this is as far from my adventurous sand riding from previous weeks as I could get - just grin a bear it , the view is better anyway



I found other fascinations in the hand painted police signs



Sangilo was close so we were not rushed , a great day of riding with plenty of laughs
Sangilo was a great place , the host Mark a very keen biker and he kept us entertained with his stories about the long way down crowd and the road up to Livingstone , the death of many large adventure bikes - pics to follow ... running out of page






Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #49 on: September 30, 2016, 08:23:10 pm »
Sangilo's bar at sunrise







again the early morning artist was set loose





One of the craziest things I have ever seen - Lake flies - huge swarms of these fuckers that look like clouds over the lake - I say fuckers to quote Mark as when they hit the shore they wreck beach bars like shit hitting a fan - their bodies get stuck in the fridges , in every nook and cranny and they don't smell too pleasant once they start dying - oh and the Malawians eat them too




We spent a few days here but soon it was time to try the notorious road to Livingstonia , straight up a mountain here we come

« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 08:26:00 pm by shanti »
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #50 on: September 30, 2016, 08:47:40 pm »
Riding Day 17 Sangilo to Mushroom Permaculture Farm ( Livingstonia )

I had tried the Livingstonia road when we had arrived in the area , it was late in the afternoon and I was a bit tired , I had gotten about a km up the road and had turned around and we headed for Sangilo- this is not a road you want to do at the end of the day , it is a sometimes near vertical rock strewn gully infested mountain pass and definitely not to be attempted in the rain - well for the sane anyway .
Starting up the pass fresh in the morning it didnt seem so bad ..



on a few of the more hectic sections Helene decided to walk the short cuts meeting me when I had gone the long way around - its difficult with two up and the front wheel bouncing off rocks in thhe road while trying to turn an almost 180 degrees switch back - needless to say the concentration needed is evident by the lack of photos



A well earned cob break at the top of the mountain in our A-frame at mushroom farm



The views from the top are amazing with Lake Malawi way down below



The Mushroom farm is a permaculture based backpackers , the gardens are impressive and due to permaculture being a huge interest of mine and the way in which we farm on our farm was very interesting swapping tips and stories RIP Bill Molison - you were a genius and your gift to hummanity will be long felt - enjoy your swales in the sky .







Moonlight over lake Malawi - no words





Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #51 on: September 30, 2016, 09:07:00 pm »
A couple more pics of the less hectic parts of the pass





Thankfully further up the switch backs have concrete over them which made the going much easier



Discussing permaculture practice - swales , guilds and water harvesting , they have just planted a whole lot of coffee trees/bushes ? so if you head out there in the next few years you should be able to enjoy some home farmed beans .



Talking of cob , we booked the cob house for a night - it has a shower that must rate up there as one of the best in the world - right on the edge of a cliff overlooking Lake Malawi - just wow





and the great thing about staying in a permaculture farm - the salads , yoh the salads were huge , fresh and the variation massive - blessed are the farmers , I love you guys and girls .
We did the touristy thing a took a look around Livingstonia but to be honest I was more interested in the chilled laid back beats and giant salads at the mushroom farm

VS


Composting toilet and shower area



A great place to recharge for the road on .....

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #52 on: September 30, 2016, 09:35:38 pm »
Riding Day 18 Livingstonia to Luwawa Forest Lodge ( Viphya Complex Forest Reserve )

A big day for us - our search for Oscars Mum had begun - Oscar is a Malawian who works with me on the farm , his children are in Malawi with his mother - he tried having his son around here in SA but struggled with schooling as he is very young - we are still trying to convince him too bring his son back to SA where we can help him with schooling , anyways , we promised to look in on him - we had vague directions to head for Edingeni Mission station and there apparently everyone knew Oscar and would direct us further . Today we would head for Luwawa Forest Lodge which is about 80km or so from Edingeni .

We took the back road out of Livingstonia via Rhumpi - this road is amazing but again with the amount of clay I would not recommend this in rainy season



Old military bridges still doing their thing



Road conditions







The ride from Rhumpi to the turn off for the forest lodge is very good and after Mzuzu its speed bike territory with beautiful twisties carrying for miles and miles

Entering the Viphya Forest area suddenly we came across a strange sand - finer than talcum powder and hiding all sorts of erosion underneath - suddenly the wheel would wander on a hidden rut - it made for quite nervous riding



Riding through the forest



into the deep forest



At the Lodge we came across the only other bikers I/we were to meet on our whole journey . A woman called Helen Lloyd ( a travel writer ) and her Scottish partner who were traveling Africa on 2 small Yamaha's - they had time on their hands and the perfect bikes to do it on - they had already done Nam and Zambia ( 8 months ) and were slowly snaking it north





I did look at their bikes with envy and had some fond thoughts of my 250 that I had left at home , my next journey will be on a smaller bike which I will abandon at my furthest north point - I hate turning around - ha ha damn it wasnt I just talking about twistie heaven a few paragraphs up ........ 250 vs 1000 hmmm - man can never be satisfied , isnt that what keeps us coming up with new experiences , thanks be to that





« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 09:49:44 pm by shanti »
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #53 on: September 30, 2016, 10:05:36 pm »
Riding Day 19 Luwawa Forest Lodge - Edingeni Mission - Makuzi Beach Lodge ( because its so beautiful )

Up good an early on our mission , hit the talc before my coffee had said hello - amazing the difference in a road late evening to early morning - I guess being tired after a long day riding has this effect



After about 100km we had the impression we where getting close - when we showed Oscar this photo he immediately burst out laughing , yes he had gotten drunk there 



We head further into the unknown





A long story short , no-one knew who Oscar was at the mission and only by luck did we find a kind soul who recognized the surname and directed us further into the bush - now we were almost by Zambia in the poorest communities I have ever seen , dirt poor as the expression is is so true , its amazing that Oscar had gotten himself out of here and a testament to his courage .
Oscars mum and his children - they even laid the table for us :)



The rubber ball finally found a home :)



enjoying some morning beer paid for by yours truly and so very happy to contribute



We thought we would be quick in and out but they had other ideas  , Helene was roped in to make the pap and they proceeded to make us a huge feast , it must have cost them all their savings , we were very touched , in fact almost to tears , the warm warm heart of Africa






Such kindness and generosity of spirit , bye guys



We headed out a little late for our proposed destination ( Helene wanted to spend her last few nights at Makuzi , just her and I in a beautiful place )


Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #54 on: September 30, 2016, 10:28:52 pm »
The road from here to Mzuzu is amazing , here is a pic of the twisties and scenery I was mentioning earlier



After a long ride in the dark - yep me again riding in the dark we got back to Makuzi and there to spend a few days in bliss



Riding Day 20 Makuzi to Senga

Back down the coast to spend a night at Cool Runnings and then its back to the airport with Helene .
Was magic traveling with you



Riding Day 21 Senga - Lilongwe airport - Chipata

Last Sobo before the flight



Woke up early to get to the airport in time to drop Helene and carried on to Zambia with a heavy heart and a much lighter bike - Dust storms before the border post .



Got my first speeding fine - was not thinking and going flat out - suddenly two cops were ahead waving me down --- ooh dear sir this is beeg trouble - me grinning - are you sure ? Come with us , I get into their fancy car and they show me the radar reading - ooops ! are you really sure that machine is not broken ? grin . Then comes the rub - 10 000 kwatcha , now I had just spent all my kwatcha filling up with petrol and I took out my wallet and showed them my last Sobo money - about 300 kwatcha , silence in the car ........ dollars ? do you have dollars ? no sir only my capitec card , maybe we could drive around and look for a capitec machine - I think I saw one in Blantyre - silence ok buy us all a drink then - sure would 300 kwatcha get you all a drink ?  yes ----  patience and smiles , they are a good people the Malawians and they mean no harm , this wasnt to be my first time with Malawian officials and uncomfortable amounts of money .

Entering Zambia was a bit of a shock , very clean , the scenery very burnt and perfect roads . I headed to Mama Rula's and got hit by culture shock yet again - South African farmers , rugby flags and SA beers - I could have been anywhere in SA .
It was in this campsite I met a very interesting couple , Jules and Myrtle , they are quite famous as the dagga couple and needless to say we got along famously - they had a huge influence in my next travel itinerary but I will get to that in the next time ..... Destination THE WIZARD !

« Last Edit: September 30, 2016, 10:59:40 pm by shanti »
 

Offline Morne 1200gs

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #55 on: October 01, 2016, 06:11:51 am »
Damm this is good, want more please.
 

Offline Kobus Myburgh

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #56 on: October 01, 2016, 06:58:17 am »
Hel, hoe lekker lees ek nou!
"If you have men who will only come if they know there is a good road, I don't want them.  I want men who will come if there is no road at all."

-David Livingstone-
 

Offline landieman

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #57 on: October 01, 2016, 08:21:53 am »
Brillianr  :thumleft: more please
don't worry about things you can't change,change the things you can.
 

Offline Slim Jim

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #58 on: October 01, 2016, 10:06:52 am »
WOW!!!!!! :thumleft: :sip:
 

Offline shanti

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Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #59 on: October 01, 2016, 11:33:06 am »
Riding Day 22 Chipata to Tete - a u-turn

Zambia had been giving me travel problems , I couldn't find places on route home that moved my being , I am probably radically wrong here  but the way home via Vic Falls and Botswana seemed to consist of long open roads in reasonable condition , hot weather and South African familiarity . I agonized about headed up to one of the parks and spending my last money on game drives , bikes arn't allowed in the parks according to people that I had spoken to. Zambia is all about big game parks , me on my bike I could just skirt the edges and pay big money to pop in on other peoples transport - nah not where I wanted to be , and after spending a night around the fire with Jules and Myrtle and seeing their pics of Vic Falls which was very empty it was with a heavy heart that I headed West to Bridge Camp , my first stop on the Zambian slog home  .

The road out of Chipata west into Zambia



Fuck it .. I couldn't do it ... now during the course of the night Jules had mentioned that they where heading to Pembe for an eclipse party - on the first of September the direct line of the solar eclipse was going to be above the Pembe area ( Northern Mozambique )- a bunch off my kind of people were heading there - what a perfect reason for a U turn - Malawi and Mozambique were not finished with me and when I saw a turn for coming into Tete from the North I didn't hesitate , I got off those perfect roods with the biggest grin on my face and headed South to Tete

That's much better ........ wooohooooo let the adventure continue



The road south from Zambia to Tete is a great road with sufficient potholes and small villages to keep it interesting , Zambia - maybe another time ...



Padkos along the way - my leather bags on the front where my daily scavenging bags - its great to have 'free' bags when motorbike traveling and they were used to store water , food for the road and sometimes additional petrol .



Maybe it wasn't the party calling , maybe it was as simple as the traveling way in Mozambique not being finished with me , dodgy bars 2M and not a care in the world



Made it to Tete in good time and camped on the great green Zambezi with a flying spirit





« Last Edit: October 01, 2016, 11:33:57 am by shanti »