Welcome, Guest. Please Login or Register

Author Topic: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe  (Read 19035 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Online edgy

  • Bachelor Dog
  • *****
  • Bike: KTM 790 Adventure R
    Location: Eastern Cape
  • Posts: 12,950
  • Thanked: 150 times
    • A Stone's Throw Bed & Breakfast
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #80 on: October 03, 2016, 10:44:42 am »
Wow i`m impressed! :drif:
www.astonesthrow.co.za

 BEER..."I drink it when I`m happy or when I`m sad. I drink it when I`m alone. When I have company I consider it obligatory. Trifle with it if I`m not hungry and drink it when I am. Otherwise, I never touch it - unless I`m thirsty"
 

Offline FrancoisTz

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #81 on: October 03, 2016, 10:52:49 am »
Dankie dat ons met jou kan deel, wonderlike ervaring. Slegs ter inligting, Renamo is 'n erkende Politieke Party in Mosambiek dus sal jy hulle geboue sien, hulle is die amptelike oposisie en dus ook verteenwoordig in die Parlement, hulle is nie almal by die "oorlog" betrokke nie. Die Parlement is ook gereeld in sitting en dit is 'n voldag gedoente, nie so 'n afgeskeepte spul soos in SA nie. Ook baie dankbaar dat jy deurentyd veilig is, oor hoor so van tyd tot tyd van die aanvalle maar darem nie elke dag nie.
Far better is it to dare mighty things, to win glorious triumphs, even though checkered by failure, than to rank amongst those poor spirits who neither enjoy much nor suffer much, because they live in the grey twilight that knows neither victory nor defeat.
 

Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #82 on: October 03, 2016, 11:03:50 am »
Riding Day 29 Ilha de Mocambique to Nampula

Sometime around lunch time on my third day on the island I decided to get going and made my way to Nampula , my money was running out , my tyres were getting worn and I was missing my farm ..... apart from my usual road side breaks the journey was uneventful as the roads were good ..



Riding Day 30 Nampula to Caia

Time to motor south - what a pleasure having a decent sized engine sitting on a comfortable seat makes and I made good time heading south - the road is again good but watch out for some of the steel bridges , the lip will tear your tyre apart if you are not paying attention



I had an interesting 30km or so slipping and sliding in an oil spill left behind by a truck - I eventually caught up with the trucker and pointed out his pollution , the poor guy must have wasted hundreds of litres of crude oil along the way - I am sure his bosses were none to amused



I could tell I was heading towards the convoys and the war zone as from Nicoadala onwards the Caia the road started to get bad again - must be pretty difficult maintaining the roads with the prospect of shooting around . Sundown and I was riding on a golden road on my golden rims - both feeling the effects of some bashes and attempted repairs - too beautiful





Kids along the way



Dodgems .





This whole region was burning , out of control bush fires everywhere , the sky was heavy with smoke and it made for an ominous feeling approaching the Caia armoured convoy assemble area





The road also bore the effects of the civil war approaching - maybe this is one of the bones of contention of the local people - the complete lack of funding in infrastructure compared to the south of Mozambique - I'm no politician so can only hazard a guess but the area did feel ignored and the people un-happy .



I made Caia well after sundown and the town was wild ..... truckers dealing with their fear for riding the next days convoy - drunk as lords and the whole town has a frontier town feel to it - on the edge of violence and morbid drunkenness . I spent my evening talking to a trucker who was heading south and he explained to me that a danger pay system was in place for the truckers . He was nervous and it started to effect me too -  time to hit the sack and prepare for tomorrow







Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #83 on: October 03, 2016, 11:11:41 am »
Dankie dat ons met jou kan deel, wonderlike ervaring. Slegs ter inligting, Renamo is 'n erkende Politieke Party in Mosambiek dus sal jy hulle geboue sien, hulle is die amptelike oposisie en dus ook verteenwoordig in die Parlement, hulle is nie almal by die "oorlog" betrokke nie. Die Parlement is ook gereeld in sitting en dit is 'n voldag gedoente, nie so 'n afgeskeepte spul soos in SA nie. Ook baie dankbaar dat jy deurentyd veilig is, oor hoor so van tyd tot tyd van die aanvalle maar darem nie elke dag nie.

Speaking to locals through Mozambique from north to south its amazing the different opinions people have re the current crisis - the northern people feel neglected , the southern people advise not to head north , people in the middle ( Piet Van Zyl ) who runs the amazing Gorongosa Adventures also have their take on the matter . I dont get involved in politics that I am not familiar with and so wont hazard a strong opinion but there is a lot being hidden from the press re the situation , I counted plenty burnt out vehicles in the two convoys I rode with , from the truckers perspective they were all kak scared running these gauntlets and the fact that alot of them were receiving danger pay says allot to the conditions of these convoys - safe travels for all who go on them is all I wish ..

Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #84 on: October 03, 2016, 11:41:41 am »
Day 31 Caia to Gorongosa

Woke up early and went to grab some breakfast - the truckers were still drinking and we had a long wait for the 3pm convoy leaving Caia south .



The convoy started to assemble at 1pm just outside Caia





The soldiers/policemen all wanted cold drinks or to bum cigarettes



Just before 3pm the lead cars occupants started to gear up , checking their ammo and putting on bullet proof vests



Due to me being on a bike they insisted that I ride with them at the front , I was none too happy being so near the front target but its difficult to argue with a bakkie load of guys armed to the teeth . Photography is banned and strictly enforced , I did manage this photo with the lead car ahead



The convoy was uneventful aside from the guys letting off a whole lot of rounds at what looked like grouse in the bushes , it did scare the shit out of me and the vehicles behind as they all scattered into the bushes  , I just stopped my bike and hit the deck . They military guys were all laughs and we carried on . The convoy reached its end by sunset and I still had another 160km or so to reach Gorongosa ...woohoooo night rides on the roller coaster between fear and elation







I reached Gorongosa Adventure park way after 10pm and was given a very friendly welcome by Piet Van Zyl and his family - if you are ever in the area his place is an absolute gem and he is a real gentleman and infinity helpful about the comings and goings of politics in the area .. 

Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #85 on: October 03, 2016, 02:12:22 pm »
Gorongosa adventures is run by Piet and his son Sakkie , its a beautiful place and given that bikes arn't allowed to enter the Gorongosa Park proper a good place for a biker to stop in the area . I did spend a few days exploring the area and even managed to get my bike stuck down a rocky slippery slope . http://gorongosa-adventures.blogspot.co.za/

Gorongosa campsite sadly deserted with all the trouble in the area



Its a beautiful area and well worth exploring











a real cowboys supper


Offline SchalkL

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #86 on: October 03, 2016, 02:27:40 pm »
Such a fantastic ride report  :thumleft: Tx for sharing.

(Would be nice if you can post us a gps route if you have  ;) )
Life is what happens to you while you are busy making other plans
 

Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #87 on: October 03, 2016, 02:36:13 pm »
Riding Day 32 Gorongosa to Nyanyadzi Hot Springs

I left on the typical central Mozambican roads , by this point I am really enjoying these conditions , makes for fun riding and keeps you on your toes


 


From Inchope to the border post of Zimbabwe at Mutare the road gets much better and with lots of road works you can expect a very good road in the not too distant future .

After the border Zimbabwe brings its own unique form of road hazard -



Riding along this road I got stopped by a group of policemen - Your one light is not working , do you know in Zimbabwe that means a fine . No sir it is working , its the bright light . The AT has two lights and only when the brights are on do they both come on . The policeman was looking for pocket money and called all his friends over to explain my ' broken ' light . I tried as much as I could to explain that this is the way the bike was made and that it would be dangerous to other motorists me having my brights on the whole time . Master plan - told the cop to look into the ' broken' light - he bent down too stare and I brighted him - all his mates burst out laughing - yip its the bright light .. after looking at me sheepish he allowed me to pass - I did in the future when I saw a road block put my brights on ( I had adjusted my lights to shine almost straight down as they could ) I didn't want anymore excuses for harassment .

A good place for a beer and a leg of long pig



Finally reached  Nyanyadzi Hot Springs - what a beautiful place again with no tourists around .



There was no place to eat and the staff at the hot springs were concerned with me going into the little town for something to eat ,Nyanyadzi had apparently turned a little dangerous at night due to the discovery of diamonds in the area - I offered to make a braai for everyone and sent one of the guys out with $12 to see if he can get meat and beers ...



It ended up a big party - my $12 went far and eventually 8 of us were full and getting pretty drunk




Offline Xpat

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #88 on: October 03, 2016, 03:18:13 pm »
Looks like a good ride and cool party-time  O0.

But one thing I don't miss is that EN1 slab. That is just pure pain in the butt with all the potholes, convoys and checkpoints. That is part of the beauty of riding off the main roads in the bush - doing the side tracks up to Vilanculos, in three weeks I almost didn't see a policeman in Moz last December, while all 4x4ers were complaining about the hassle.

Didn't you want to go originally all the way up to Rwanda, or am I getting confused? Why did you turn back so soon?


Offline 0012

  • Double-oh-Tkwarf
  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Suzuki DR650
    Location: Rest of Africa
  • Posts: 3,011
  • Thanked: 131 times
  • Race the rain. Ride the wind. Chase the sunset.
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #89 on: October 03, 2016, 03:54:49 pm »
what a ride!!!

awesome  :ricky:
->    TransAlp 650 - sold
:(    Yamaha XT1200Z - written off - R.I.P.
 

Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #90 on: October 03, 2016, 04:48:29 pm »
Looks like a good ride and cool party-time  O0.

But one thing I don't miss is that EN1 slab. That is just pure pain in the butt with all the potholes, convoys and checkpoints. That is part of the beauty of riding off the main roads in the bush - doing the side tracks up to Vilanculos, in three weeks I almost didn't see a policeman in Moz last December, while all 4x4ers were complaining about the hassle.

Didn't you want to go originally all the way up to Rwanda, or am I getting confused? Why did you turn back so soon?



My original intention was to take a smaller bike and ride up Lake Tanganyika towards Rwanda too visit a mate of mine , and then cut down via Tanzania and hit Mozambique at the unity bridge . Got caught up in the whole buying of the AT thing and then realized that there was no way my route would have accommodated me going solo on such a big heavy bike . Looking at next year the same time doing this route on a small bike - anyways worked out well , got to travel a bit with the missus which on a small bike wouldn't have allowed - all good - the EN1 isnt so bad on a big bike - doing it on an off-road dedicated bike I can imagine being pure hell .

Offline jimjim

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: MZ (all models)
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 756
  • Thanked: 2 times
  • I do nothing all day
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #91 on: October 03, 2016, 05:00:57 pm »
Fantastic trip. The pics of those trees in the water are stunning.
Always carry a flagon of whiskey in case of snakebite and furthermore always carry a small snake.  - W. C. Fields
 

Offline shanti

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 1,142
  • Thanked: 11 times
  • rest stop moon
    • derek saul
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #92 on: October 04, 2016, 08:58:51 am »
Riding Day 33 Nyanyadzi Hot Springs to Great Zimbabwe Ruins

Easy ride through the baobabs south to the Zim ruins





Not a problem with this bike - what a great traveling machine



Zimbabwe's roads are a patchwork of repairs 



I had bought extra fuel in Mozambique , an extra 15 litres , it was time to fill up and carry on my journey ..



The Zim ruins were empty and I had the place to myself -











Riding Day 34 Zimbabwe Ruins to Gauteng

Another easy ride , the border post at Beit bridge was a breeze - 30 mins and through , suddenly on our good roads I was approaching home .

Riding Day 35 Gauteng to Colesburg

Left late in the afternoon after picking my bike up from its 12 000km service and headed out . Got to Colesburg and had a great sleep at Jean's place - Nimmo on this forum ( Sunset Villas ) , he waited up for me . A good place to break your journey north/south if you are slabbing it .

Riding Day 36 Colesburg to Harkerville

Home



And that's that , hope you enjoyed my little journey , keep safe and ride responsibly - cheers for now Derek


 


Offline bud500

  • Global Moderator
  • Grey hound
  • ***
  • Bike: KTM 990 Adventure
    Location: Gauteng
  • Posts: 5,448
  • Thanked: 147 times
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #93 on: October 04, 2016, 10:17:56 am »
Love it!

What was your total kilometers travelled and total days away from home?
Live like someone left the gate open.
 

Offline Duster

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #94 on: October 04, 2016, 10:24:30 am »
Epic journey and thanks for sharing.  After that distance covered, I am always thankful for bikers to be home safe.  Respect!
"Often the test of courage is not to die, but to live!"   (Vittorio Alfieri)
 

Offline Cota

  • Puppy
  • *
  • Bike: BMW R1200GS Adventure
    Location: Gauteng
  • Posts: 20
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #95 on: October 04, 2016, 10:42:39 am »
Brilliant trip!!!  :ricky:
 

Offline Slim Jim

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #96 on: October 04, 2016, 11:24:03 am »
In awww ,well done budd
 

Offline Bwana

  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: Honda CRF-1000L Africa Twin
    Location: Eastern Cape
  • Posts: 782
  • Thanked: 28 times
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #97 on: October 04, 2016, 11:35:03 am »
Well done Derek great report. Can we have a bike report. KMs per liter expenses likes dislikes etc.
 

Offline XRRX

Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #98 on: October 06, 2016, 06:15:40 pm »
Fantastic ride and report!!!
Well done Derek!!!  :thumleft: :thumleft:

Saluting the AT too - I belief it has earned its name - yet again!!!    :thumbsup:
 

Offline I&horse

  • You look like a
  • Race Dog
  • ***
  • Bike: KTM 950 Adventure
    Location: Western Cape
  • Posts: 3,755
  • Thanked: 34 times
  • was Andy 950
Re: Off to see the wizard - Mozambique , Malawi , Zambia and Zimbabwe
« Reply #99 on: October 06, 2016, 09:01:23 pm »
Jeeeeeez D thats how you do it bru!!!!!!!!

That eclipse party looks amazing :thumleft:
Silence is golden...... Duct tape is silver

Everything works with smoke, if the smoke escapes, it stops working.