Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!

[Stroke Her]

I have spent many many hours reading ride reports on this forum...especially on Namibia and more particularly Kaokoland. Days dreamt away behind the PC screen, FOMO, resentment and envy...yes sometimes reading the exploits of others does not bring out the best in oneself

I missed out on a previous Kaokoland and Angola trip...then hurt my lower back and did not ride for 2 years. On top of that the company I work for has been going through all types of ownership changes etc etc...In a nutshell I was reaching the point of implosion, meltdown call it what you wish...time for a TIME OUT!!

So I went to Namibia...and it was better than any cure, ointment or remedy any doctor, phychiatrist or snake oil salemen could give

I am not one for writing ride reports...too much admin. However during my trip planning I relied heavily on the reports of others to get my planning spot on. Hence I hope my report can serve as the same for someone else one day.

Before we start some thank you's, disclaimer and apologies:

Thank you too:
The missus...for putting up with my shit but also for encouraging me to travel and get out of my comfort zone...and for picking up the pieces when I go too far.
2TDan and Beserker...for info, encouragement and wisdom imparted over many years
Rory...my friend that works for Inmarsat for the satphone and uncapped airtime
Myself...for putting in the work to be able to afford this

Apologies:
To all the readers that are about to be scarred with my inferior writing and random ramblings and the photos. I am really lazy when it comes to documenting anything...hence I just snapped away at anything.
To the missus for the stress a trip like this puts her through.
To my mates for going without you (julle bliksems wil mos kinders he!! )

Disclaimer:
I am writing this so that I can remember the trip and share it with friends and family. Normally I come home and my recollection of a trip is a random rehash of images, jumbled stories (forgetting half of it until much later something reminds me of it) and general sense of stoke.
I will try and include everything in my own words...hence if the language use offends then don't read on . This i will do to try and convey the feel of the trip as I experienced it at the time.

So since most is back at work after the holidays, enjoy burning some gigs at work while slowly settling back into the slavery groove

[ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS]

  :thumleft:Gooi ons wag.

[Stroke Her]

ChrilL...is jy nie die Enduristan agent nie??

Ek moet praat oor die luggage...anyway jy sal later sien

[Herklaas]

  You are doing ok so far, that foto looks familiar, where was it?

[ChrisL - DUSTRIDERS]

ChrilL...is jy nie die Enduristan agent nie??

Ek moet praat oor die luggage...anyway jy sal later sien

Alleen invoerder..........................................................................isik in die moeilikgeid?

[Vis Arend]

ek wag ook.     

[slicknick]

 

[Stroke Her]

Build up and prep:

Mid 2016 and I have finally recovered from my lowerback issues. I was climbing,cycling like a beast and knew it was time to RIDE again.

The bike buying process started in earnest. Now I was hell bent on a 690 with Omega Kit and for once was willing to lay down serious cash to acquire a virtually new bike.

In steps my mate Westlley that works offshore:

"Andre ek weet jy is n KTM man maar gaan ry eers my XT660z, hy staan in die garage sleutes is in die bike gooi net petrol in"

Now how can I refuse an offer like that?! A test ride proper was had...Atantis sand included. I remember coming home and thinking...damn, what a surprise...this bike will be right for 95% of what I intend doing. Needless to say the bike buying search was altered and a few weeks later I was the proud owner of a 2012 XT660z (white...best colour).

Westley then showed me how to weld and left me to my own devices...resulting in me voeeltjie kakking together my first set of luggage racks.

Some trips followed (Hell, Baviaans, Verneukpan and Namaqua Eco 4x4)...after 2TDan and I did the Namaqua Eco 4x4 in mid summer I knew I was ready for Nam. Dan commited provisionally for a Nam trip in Jul/Aug 2017.

Roll on May 2017...Dan had some family setbacks that did not allow him 3 weeks off. Shit...issue for me as the missus insists I am not allowed to go alone.

Next candidate Beserker. Unfortunately Dave also had some family related issues that did not permit him 3 weeks off. Double shit!!

Next candidate...Westly. His wife Lisa (sy is van die Weskus ) when approached..." Jy fokken los my nie hier vir 3 weke met die twee kinders alleen nie!!! Jy was nou net 9 weke op see!!!" Tripple shit!!!

Westley suggested I advertise the trip on his biking Wassap group...which I did. I also posted on WD. No takers...Quadruple Olifant Kak

I told the missus I am going alone...she said no...I said try and stop me

Booked my leave for 8th July to 31 July. And started once again reading ride reports and staring at maps. However this went on until mid June...without me actually commiting anything to paper. I remember jotting down a countdown in my diary at work...when I hit 18 days to go the panic settled in and I was spurred into action.

Passport, vehicle papers, insurance, satphone, route GPX files, Compressor, Sleeping bag liner, Fuel bladder etc etc...the credit card was used under the motto of "Swipe hom lat die plastic brand!'

[Stroke Her]

ChrisL...nee tegnies nie jy innie kak nie. Maar sakke het gekak

[Herklaas]

  Good style, " ............dat die plastic brand" 

[Stroke Her]

Prep: 7 days to departure

With 7 days to go I was granted the gift that the Cape Town winter bestowes on most of us...FLU. Nog n Olifant Kak.

Those that know me know that I can be very stubborn...tipies Afrikaner.

Of to the doc I go: "Doctor ek ry volgende saterday namibia toe en as ek bronchitus kry daar dan is dit jou probleem."

He laughed...I did not. He gave me a look and wrote me a prescription.

By now the missus was on my case as she realized my mind was set...I was going alone and I was going with flu.

Demands were made...I succumbed. An Excel itinary was drawn up with contact details, dates etc. Satphone was tested...she even tested the emergency position report. She was annoying me but I knew that if the proverbial shit hath hitteth the fan...she was the only one that would come running to my aid.

Some pics:

Bike loaded with spare tyre (to be changed at Kunene)
My half arsed attempt at a self issued haircut prior to departure
Battery monitor codes committed to phone (I am paranoid with any bike that does not have a kickstarter)

PS: The flu...I call it the AIDS...was well settled into my chest and I was couching like a newbie at a Rastafarian gathering.

[Stroke Her]

Herklaas...Gamkab Eco river trial...on South Easter border of Richterveld park...close to Ausenkher

[Herklaas]

  Nie wat ek gedink het nie, maar was al in daai omgewing met 'n "cage" Wil nog Namibia doen met die bike. Sal maar eers tips vang hier by jou.

[THROTTLE JOCKEY]

 

[Stroke Her]

Day 1 Saturday

Depart Durbanville 6h30 am...en dis p03s koud en dik mistig. Fok...jy wil mos. The mist was an issue as I had a long day planned slogging it up to the border.

Did I mention it was p03s cold?! I had on all my clothes and winter gloves and I was still kakking off.

Mist meant 75km/h at most...shit this is going to be a looong day. Jy will mos Van Rooyen

By Malmesbury te mist started to lift slightly and I was treated to a beautifull Cape winter morning with everything green and pretty...and getting even pretty colder.
 
Just as I thought I was getting rid of the mist it settled in again and I had to tag a truck to Piketberg. A bit dodgy but I needed to cover some ground.

At Piketberg I stopped for a coffee and a ciggie...I was now properly frozen. I zoned in on the coffee machine like a homing pigeon. The AIDS was not liking the moist cold air and I felt like shit.

A well...at least the mist has cleared so press on we must. High spirits at this stage though. I was on holiday and realizing a dream one kilometer at a time.

As most single cylinder owner would agree with...super slabbing is not the forte of this type of bike. The baby Ten is better than most but with 2 teeth extra at the back for this trip 130km/H GPS speed translated to 5500rpm. So at this lofty RPM I gunned it to the border.

At Klawer I topped up...11l for 160km?!? Fok...bankrot teen Windhoek!?

Chatted to Rassie and Michael. They were from Vredendal out on a day ride. Rassie on hos brand new 1290 Super Adv and Michael (who forgot his gloves at home) on his 990. Nice guys

Brekkie was a cheese griller, biltong and coffee.

Now the missus has this annoying habbit whenever I go away. Once I am all packed and ready to go she shoves a bag of snacks in my hand that I normally do not have space for...this time the bag included about half a kilo of biltong. How the F is that going to go over the border I was thinking?

Got stuck at some roadworks at the new bridge after Clanwilliam...about 20min delay.

Heading past Garies the sun was out in full and I was giving it the beans. Just before departure I finally managed to get my music setup right and I was reaping the rewards now. Dethklock blaring, max RPM...life is good

And 15km later after ripping up the pass past Groenriver the puncture monster notified its presence when I slightly backed of the throttle as I crested the pass. Ag fok tog nie nou nie . As far as punctures go this one was actually very convenient as 50m on there was one of those universal roadside stops with some benches and shade. It was cold though so hardly a sweat was broken during the tyre change.

At Springbok another 21.4l for 299km...the credit card was buckling under the onslaught

126km to go to border...life is good.

Getting warm now...Ice cold coke at the Enden and then final push.

[Stroke Her]

Border

Got to the border just after 4pm.

SA side 20mins including smoke break...Nam side 30mins due to lots of Zaffers with kids in front of me.

My biltong and steaks made it accross no issue

Stop at the Shell, chat a bit to the new owner Berto, fill up and head to Amanzi River Camp about 10km further on.

As I approach campsite I notice a smoke collumn...I though it is probably someone burning rubbish.

It was hot by now so when I arrived at the camp I klapped an ice cold Tafel and then set up my Camp.

[Herklaas]

 

[Stroke Her]

Night 1...a rough start

Remember the smoke I noticed? Well whilst braaing my steak Sharon on Amanzi came past all the campsites making everyone aware of the huge fire burning on the property next door...she seemed quite concerned.

Well after the sun set I could see why...it was proper! And we were only about 400m away and seperated only by the plantation (tomatos under shade netting I think?). It is not like that part of Nam has a fire brigade!!

Luckily the wind was in our favour and I settled in for a cold wind night in my hammock. It was a rough night...puked 4 times. Must have gotten some river water into my system or it was the AIDS. Farksakes.

[Stroke Her]

Geduldig asseblief...ek tik met twee fingers!!!

[charliepappa]

Brilliant!

Sub