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Author Topic: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!  (Read 21650 times)

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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #60 on: July 25, 2017, 08:49:27 pm »
My descent down Adv Riding heaven continued...

More Giraffe, Bouncy Buck, Gemsbok, Tall necked Chickens and cattle...and a landscape with views and vistas that just went on and on and on.
 
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Offline plonker

Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #61 on: July 25, 2017, 08:56:51 pm »
Amazing Boet. You have a wonderful style and at times I was rolling on the floor with laughter , especially you trying to explain the condoms to the Missus. That was special. And the Himba chick with the perky tits. :imaposer: :imaposer:
I think we put this up for Report of the Year award.
 
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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #62 on: July 25, 2017, 09:15:32 pm »
Day 8 Taking care of domestic promises made prior to departure

Whenever the missus or I travel the deal is usually that we must bring the other something cool from afar. She specifically said something local and middle of nowhere for this trip.

"Yes dear, promise my dear" I said whilst thinking...dammit woman...I am on a bike where must a put the rakkie kakkie goeters you want from the middle of bum effing nowhere?!

Well halfway down the Khumib a solution was found in the form of Peet (?) or Piet (?)...not sure the man's name as again the language barrier was insurmountable. Him and his family eek out a living literally in the middle of nowhere...probably 25km down the river bed from the main road. No car or cart...I did not even spot a horse.

Bought some charms and jewelry. Obviously he did not have change for R200 so we swopped a few pieces around to get to a nice round total. He did not mind some pics and after every fotie I showed it to them on my phone much to their amusement. The joys of digital photography...

Needless to say once packed up with phone back in Nav mode his beautiful teenage daughter walks up. Dammit...sorry boys...no fotie.

I move on...its already getting hot. I stop on a koppie as one turns out of the Khumib to cross over to the Hoarasib. I smoke a ciggie and take in my surroundings..I am falling in love with the Kaokoland and with Namibia. I am at peace.


 
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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #63 on: July 25, 2017, 09:17:09 pm »
Thank you Plonker, glad you enjoyed it so far.

For those that enjoy British TV...I was merely "an idiot abroad" :thumleft:
 

Offline Xpat

Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #64 on: July 25, 2017, 09:21:13 pm »
Great reporting  :thumleft:

Don't worry about the typos - we all make the all the time and you report reads just fine.

Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #65 on: July 25, 2017, 09:25:37 pm »
Thanks Xpat...and thank you for your good reports on riding in this area. I relied heavily on them during my planning for this trip :thumleft:

If you are ever going to do the Namaqua Eco trial again let me know...I will be keen to ride along. I am an admirer of your style dude :thumleft:
 

Offline Xpat

Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #66 on: July 25, 2017, 09:33:13 pm »
Sure, I'll let you know when I'm heading that side - still have to do the sand along the west coast.  :thumleft:

Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #67 on: July 25, 2017, 09:39:19 pm »
Right...where were we? Between Middel Van Nerens en Heemel Op Aarde if I recall correctly ;D

Day 8 Crossing Khumib to Hoarusib...the desert leg.

As I moved away from the riverbed the terrain got more rocky and the vegetation changed. I see lots of stripey horses and Bouncing bokkies. The landscape is amazing. This is what I came for. A sense of contentment washes over me.

I stop to take some snaps of stripey horses and bouncing bokkies...but alas my phone just doesnt allow decent foties at any range.

I am amazed at how fat and beautiful the zebras are...I only learn later during the trip that they are actually a special Zebra called the Berg Kwagga native to the region....goes to show how little I know about wildlife. In my defence...I am a Capie...only Dassies and Baboons here I am afraid.

I refuse to pay any form of admission to see a wild animal...if it is in a park/zoo/reserve then it surely is not wild anymore?! Here however I get treated to truly free wild running animals. No fences, no fees for admission but ones willingness to get out there. I was loving it.

I pass through the desert leg and slowly start the descent to the Hoarusib Riverbed.  There is a nervous excitement tinging in my left ball...the Elephant part starts in this riverbed. En ek is fokken kak bang vir Olifante!!! :peepwall:
 
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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #68 on: July 25, 2017, 09:40:22 pm »
XPat...Westcoast sand is a treat...done it a few times.
 

Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #69 on: July 25, 2017, 10:04:11 pm »
Day 8 The Hoarusib aka "Die knyp in my onderbroek aka Die Gemoeds Bekakking"

The Hoarusib Riverbed comes into view. I stop and stretch my hands a bit...I may have had a nervous smoke, I probably needed one.

I knew from my trip planning that the likelyhood of elephant encounters are high along this riverbed...and gets higher the closer to Purrus I get.

Honesty section: I was shitting bricks. I had no idea how technical the sand will be or how overgrown the track. So far from what I could see this part of the world was exceptionally green after the big rains of last year. Normally I fear no sand...it is soft enough to fall on and does not damage ones bike...as in its not a trip ender. I did not know however how I was supposed to do a pivot turn in a thickly overgrown riverbed when faced with an angry elephant bull.

Fuck

Fuckit...stalling was freaking me out more than moving. On with it...do or die...or die trying.

My GPS kept me on the Easter side of the riverbed and out of the thickest sand...I was starting to relax.

Then the track dipped down closes to the riverbed into a bushy twisty section. My range of vision was now seriously impaired...would I spot the Ellies early enough for a headstart to out run them. Surely an Ellie is slower than a giraffe and not equipped with Baja winning suspension? Then again an Ellie can just bulldoze through anything....did I mention I was shitting bricks? I lie...the brick has been shat...I was onlly breezeblocks now :o

As I move along I start spotting elephant tracks...and a few kays on some fresh (well it looked fresh OK?!) dung...then a km on some fresh urine stains.

Fuck...they are here somewhere. I proceed with caution. A tale 2TDan told me of a narrow escape he had on a bie with an elephant haunted me...Danie is much better than me on a bike and he reckons he barely made it. What the hell were you thinking Van Rooyen?!?!?!

I proceed...

And then poof...track opens up and the sign for the campsite appears. Phew...i though, made it.

I checked out the campsite. No reception and the local dude claiming to be the camp master struck me as dodgy. He had signs up for petrol but I did not ask. I asked if this was the community campsite...no sir it is private. Sorry...I move on.

Some lekka dik 2 spoor sand lter during which I nearly nearly got spat by my faithfull mule (too fast, front wheel dug in and I anded up headbutting my screen just for the forks to rebound and shoot me back straight...a not so gentle reminder to not get too lax) I stumbe into the next Campsite on the opposite riverbed. Omenje it was called.

In the next post we will be visiting the 5 times payback coefficient on Pay It Forward in Kaokoland....as well as go Walk and Stalk some of those Long Necked Spotted Horses :biggrin:
 
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Offline Bokveld

Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #70 on: July 25, 2017, 10:43:19 pm »
      By verre die beste RR in n lang tyd!  Thanks for sharing this experience of a lifetime.A solo ride is just special.
 

Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #71 on: July 25, 2017, 10:46:49 pm »
I pull in by Omenje Campsite by Reception. A lady in traditional dress recceives me...Space, yes sir, petrol no sir, food no sir, hot water yes sir. Sorted. Decide to pay her and then first head off to the Purros village to find fuel and then head back to set up camp.

I pay her the N$100...bargain. She points me to a campsite right on the edge of the riverbank. There is some saffers camped in the next campsite 50m up river. The chap recognise me...it was the drone flyers from VZP :). We chat a bit and I explain my fuel concerns. He offers 4-5 liters he had spare in a jerry can. I decline and tell him I will first check the village and if I dont come right get the fuel from him.

As I am about to leave Hendrik and his wife in the old Hilux pulls in...they made it :). I explain the fuel situation and mention that I saw petrol signs at the previous camp. They decide to go check that out.

As I head out my reserve light comes on...quick mental fuelling calcs reveal making Sesfontein may be risky.

I head for Purros...first depot only diesel, they refer me to Manchester United Store...the shebeen. It is just after lunch and the music is pumping...drunk patrons argue, dance and shout. Not my scene at all. I enter and after about 10 minutes finally gets assistance. Sorry sir...no fuel. Try shack over there with green roof. Fuckaround.

Go too green roof shack and there is no one there...I poke around and find an infant under a blanket with drawing crayons scattered over the floor...door ajar...no adult in sight. I get that uneasy feeling that this village is bad news. I poke around the fuel shed but only a little diesel left.

I decided fuckit...back to the campsite...I will grab that 5l and then head directly to Sesfontein for refuel and then come back for another riverbed sortie.

Back at the Campsite I saunter over to the Saffers for the precious 5l of petrol. No payment would be accepted and I even get offered an ice cold beer...I could not say no.

While standing around another oke of their party joins our banter.
He asks "Wat soek jy, soek jy petrol?"

I reply "Ja, jou vriend het klaar 5l gegee maar ek kan doen met nog".

He replies: "Nou hou op sukkel. Ek het 160 liter ekstra...maak vol die fokken bike"

I could not believe my luck. The detour to Sesfontein was averted. And they refused payment for the fuel. And they were heading same way as I was the next day...so again I was not alone. How I lucked into this I cannot explain :)

I can however give the mathematical calculation on the 5 times coefficient return on Pay It Forward in Kaokoland:

I give 5 liters

I get 20 liters plus free beer and back-up...all in the same day.

All I could do was shake my head. You lucky sod.

Lunch was Luncheon Roll... a palatable love child made when Bully Beef and Polony procreates.

Then after a power nap in my hammock I went for a walk around. Some landscape foties and then I spotted some Long Necked Spotted Horses. I wishes to get a close up so some Walk and Stalk ensued. It felt really good walking in the bush with only my phone, smokes and plakkies. No fences or rules...just me and the giraffes.

After the fuel charity I avoided the Saffers as I felt the inevitable dinner invite would come and I felt I have received enough of their charity for one day. Do not use your allotment of luck all in one go Van Rooyen...you may need some more on this trip.

Dinner was Bully Beef and Baked Beans. I heated it up on my MSR stove. It tasted great.

I slept like a baby.

PS: At this stage I was becoming very fond of the little Ten
PPS: That hole in the ground is about 3-4 meters deep and the water source for the campsite

 
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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #72 on: July 25, 2017, 10:52:42 pm »
Nog van die landscape en Walk and Stalk

En dan is ek eers klaar vir vandag.

Dankie vir al die goeie wense...more gaan ons weer aan vir Olifant jag Dag 2 en Gemoedsbekakking #2...en hierdie keer was daar wel n bekakking. :peepwall:
 
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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #73 on: July 25, 2017, 10:56:26 pm »
Giraffes
 
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Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #74 on: July 25, 2017, 11:01:37 pm »
During a chat with the Saffers during after dinner coffee ( I went to go share Hoanib Fesh-fesh route advise that I got from Oom Tiempie) the Saffers mentioned they flew their drone down Purros Canyon today...lots of water!! We will see how far I get tomorrow.

I spot two jackel after sunset...

I am content

I can get used to this life.

Like my missus' father always tells me (he is Portuguse)..."There is no future in work!"

Damn skippy manual, damn skippy :thumleft:
« Last Edit: July 25, 2017, 11:03:30 pm by Stroke Her »
 
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Offline 2StrokeDan

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #75 on: July 25, 2017, 11:02:24 pm »
Jirre Andre, F.A. Venter se moer, jy skryf to oulik, en die fouties is ook mooi!

Respek, nie eke mens se koppie tee om alleen in die boendoe rond te ry nie.

Ek se vanmiddag vir Dave, nee ou Andre hardloop seker nog daar duskant Purros voor die leeus uit. Nou lees ek jy's terug. Kom kuier.
 

Offline Stroke Her

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #76 on: July 25, 2017, 11:05:07 pm »
Dankie Danie...ek is more oggend in Stellies vir n fietsry. Sal draai maak.

Trip was kort geknip...sal maar nie se hoekom nie. Nie nou al nie.

Sien jou more.
 

Offline Phillip Flap

Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #77 on: July 26, 2017, 06:01:37 am »
Ingeskryf! Subscribed!
good reading, nice pictures.
Love the style.
good luck!
“Money is only a tool. It will take you wherever you wish, but it will not replace you as the driver.”
Ayn Rand
 

Offline Amsterdam

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #78 on: July 26, 2017, 08:11:46 am »
That is a tough place to ride on your lonesome, even if sand riding doesn't worry you.  Now you can see why I felt the need to do a bit of sand practice in the dunes with you and Malcolm some months ago?
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Offline Rooi Wolf

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Re: Kaokoland: I was tired of reading about it!!!
« Reply #79 on: July 26, 2017, 08:46:42 am »
Lekker man, lekker. El solo is baie spesiaal en vat groot ballas in daai węreld.