A Timeless hour glass and the road map to the Garden Route (08-13/08/2017)

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Joined
Aug 4, 2017
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Bike
BMW F650GS / Dakar
[Buffelsjagsriver / Swellendam / Barrydale / Knysna / Tsitsikamma / Sedgefield]

When I lay with my head in the sand on the 31st December 2016 waiting for the clock to strike midnight on Kleinmond beach, I made an unwritten bucket list for my new year. On this list was the Garden route, and I wanted to be able to say I have left my foot prints on this beautiful coastline.

As life has its unpredictable meetings and encounters with chance and change, time is never really ours, and we finally pinned down a 5 day adventure.
We had 5 nights, 3 people and a list of plans and the only thing that was confirmed was the accommodation. We each took responsibility for different places to lay our heads and recharge our devices. Without fail the element of adventure and exploring remains high amongst us.

So we closed our eyes, filled in the leave forms and arranged for alternative transport as gravel and dirt was definitely going to be on our list somewhere. The number plate read Free State, and we were grateful for Aunty De Klerk for allowing us to travel in comfort on our adventure.

Packed and ready to go, straight after work on the Tuesday, we traded work attire for more comfortable hoodies and jeans and headed out towards DuToitsKloof pass, this remains one of my favourite passes to travel on. Knowing that just 2 days ago we had come over this pass in the opposite direction on the GS which was now having a well-deserved rest safely in the garage after carrying us over the most amazing passes and dirt roads over the last few weekends.

We stopped off quickly in Robertson and headed straight on towards Buffelsjagsriver where we would spend our first night at Chris-Elle. Here we stayed in caravans that have been revamped. This is a beautiful small holding that is a popular wedding venue. The décor is simple beauty, less is more and remains quaint and rustic. This venue will steal your heart. While sitting around the fire we spotted eyes looking back at us through the dark of the night. We were pleasantly surprised to know that we have friendly neighbors, Springbok came closer to introduce themselves as well as a black potbelly pig. Luckily there wasn’t springbok on the grid, and only some disguised bacon wrapped fillet. I may have felt even more guilty. Oopsie.

The rest was well received and we headed out for exploring on foot the next morning into the mist next to the Buffelsjags river. Though we didn’t see much along the river, it was a blessing to be able to breathe in the clean air.

Regretfully we had to pack up quickly and head out, we still lots of tar that needed chewing before we unpacked in Knysna.
Making a detour via Tradouw Pass to Barrydale. I was full of smiles as I knew a few weeks ago when I came through this pass, that I would want to visit it again. This piece of earth remains beautiful. I wonder if Thomas Bain envisioned this beauty every time he took on a project to build a new pass.  We salute this ancient Road Engineer and say thank you for providing us with this driving canvas.

Going through Barrydale, 2 inevitable stops had to be made. ‘Diesel and Crème’ & ‘Ronnie’s Sex Shop’. Traditionally you have to have the decadent milkshake at the one, and something alcoholic in tall glass at the other. So we ticked that off the list quickly and continued towards Riversdale where we would finally get back on the N2.

Our home for the next two nights was at Ocean View in Brenton-on-Sea. This was booked before the Knysna fires a few months ago. When we queried the state of our booking after the burn the owner said his lodge is still standing. Not being moved and in true fashion of being curious we still wanted to stay there. Before you hit Knysna, the side of the road already starts to change color with a Kaleidoscope oranges, browns and black as the fire took ownership of this stretch of land. Brenton was not spared. We had a quick get-to-know-you session with Henry, the owner of this well kept and comfortable lodge. Electricity had only be put back on last week, and the residents have been coping without a lot of the normal things that we take for granted daily. Telkom lines are still not in 100% working order. But there is progress as the town recovers from this natural disaster. Infront of one of the homes they have erected 51 white crosses, each marked with a surname and street name for family homes that have been lost.

We grabbed a bite to eat at a local pub in Knysna called Olde’s . A lovely atmosphere and good food ended off our day perfectly.
Early risers and lots of coffee as we headed to Tsitsikamma for ziplining escapades. I had never done this before and was excited and a little nervous, there I said it – ‘’NERVOUS’’.  We had a quick briefing and were dressed by the instructors in our helmets and harnasses. I just kept asking ‘’ how does the brake work?’’. After the first slide over the kloof and waterfalls to the other side, I was more like, ‘’stuff the brakes, FASTER – MAKE IT GO FASTER’’ .  Seems my panic for clean underwear was in vain, I survived to tell the tale, with an even stronger sense of adventure than before. So many mountains to conquer, whether by foot, motorbike, mountain bike, and now by a line.

All on quite a high, adrenalin still pumping we stopped at Storm’s River Bridge for snacks. We shared our experiences as we walked across the famous bridge. This bridge is also known as the Paul Sauer Bridge and was completed in 1956. The passenger walkway that runs next to the bridge shakes and tremors as trucks and cars hold no grudges while passing through.

We didn’t get to comfortable in our car seats as we climbed out soon enough for our hike at the Big Tree in Tsitsikamma. This tree is one of the oldest trees. It boasts with wrinkles of a 1000years. We hiked into the forest and followed the rich green path way. One of the Big Trees not too far away, known as the Forest Giant. This yellow wood was over 500 years old and made its last tumble to the ground on the 31 December 1994. If you are in this area. You will not regret paying a visit to this forest. If Peter Pan and Tinkerbell had to choose where to take up residence in South Africa, this would be home for them.

After another hop skip and jump we landed ourselves on the beaches of Nature’s Vallley. Another beautiful road, lots of water and this beautiful clean beach. One thing about the Garden Route that I noticed. The beaches are clean, and the water is sparkly blue.

Just before Knysna, Carel turned into a squatter informal settlement. I wondered if this was where he was planning to hide our bodies, being the only testosterone on the trip, I can imagine he was refraining from saying much often. This area was called Noetzie. We followed the dirt road through the informal settlement along a cliff, in the clearing it became beautiful in front of us. Another long stretch of beach. We climbed out again and headed down to the beach view the Noetzie castles. Noetzie originally known as Noetziekamma, a Khoisan phrase for ‘dark water’. The castles are built on the beach and tower above the trees into the cliffs. Breathtaking!

We ended off our very successful day with a charcoal barbeque as the people in Brenton are currently not braaing due to fire scares, so when in a foreign town, do as the foreigners do, adapt.

Friday we packed up and due to some rain we traded our outdoor plans for some indoor ones. We visited the museum, Millwood House where we all got a little nostalgic to see that Carel’s family’s history and story lays in this beautiful stretch of land. Something about doing these kinds of things always make you wonder about your own family and where your story began. Who’s eyes do you have? Is your nose long because your grandmother was generally nosy? Who’s hands do you look at when you look down at your own? Who will tell your story one day?

After that we headed to Thesan’s Island to walk through the Motorcycle Room. If this is your choice of poison, please do not overlook this stop. O my word, 2 wheels have never looked this hot before, over and over again. Custom made and rebuilt legends. Stunning. Accompanied by the friendly owner who has labour and grease investment in more than half of them.

The slow town of Sedgefield was our last stop. Spoilt with an apartment, we felt under dressed for this one. On our morning run, we stopped at the Classic Car collection on the main road and once again, a little old American muscle is always something worth Ooooh-about.

Trip advisor recommended SwartVlei ‘’Gericke’s“ as the hike in town. Without hesitation or a shower we headed out. This hike can only be done at low tide, as you may be stranded if you attempt it any other time. Beautiful cliffs that have become almost sand. Star fish and amazing birdlife here. Something different to what I am used to and it worked for my eyes. We fed well here.

Keeping it local and low key after our busy morning, we did Putt-Putt, 9 holes and no Tiger Woods, we rewarded ourselves with lunch at the local restaurant. 
In true Slow Town fashion we thought it appropriate to spend our last evening of our adventure at the local pub. Pool cues were chalked and the drinks were opened and cold. As long as the juke box was playing, the stripes and solids continued to roll.

Heading back on Sunday, the car was quiet. As usual it is always bittersweet coming home after such an amazing adventure.
I think the jury is out on this one, I am addicted to this life. I am grateful that all my senses work and I want to just inhale it all. Inhale life, exhale the negative and mundane.

Why do we choose a ‘’washing-machine clean-sock’’ life that is set on spin, when we can rather have a ‘’washing-line odd-sock’’ life of blowing in the wind, been taken from wind to sun and then back to feet that are well travelled and not afraid to live.





 

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