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Offline Amsterdam

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Husky 701 Alternative 2nd tank connection point
« on: February 18, 2018, 06:57:12 pm »
I found the following via the 701 Facebook page. 

Quote (but shortened somewhat):
Today we want to reveal something from the tips & tricks Box. Currently the solution connecting a secondary tank through the ventilation of the primary tank is spread over the internet.  This is not a good solution.

Throughout the course of discussions with technicians it has also became very clear, that the 701 has a hidden adapter for a secondary tank.
In other words, Husqvarna has already taken precautions here. Here's a picture of the secret connection.

Unquote

It goes on to say that you use the tap shown below (KTM part number 58507003200).  This is the same tap used on the 990/1090/1190/1290 tanks.  This is quite a neat and cheap solution as you don't have to buy that adapter block that lowers the fuel pump.

Has anyone here ever installed another fuel connection to the main tank this way?  Do you have to drill into the tank?
« Last Edit: October 28, 2018, 01:37:15 pm by BiG DoM »
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Offline Amsterdam

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #1 on: March 29, 2018, 04:13:44 pm »
Seems no-one here has done this yet but Tim Hewitt posted this on the 701 page.

http://www.travellinghewitts.com/rade-garage-fuel-tank-alternate-install/

I will copy the (shortened version of the) text here in case that Wordpress page disappears, the photos further clarifying the installation copied below -

Quote

Buy the KTM petcock, part number 58507003200 and two M6 bolts, 12mm long.  Go for a ride and try and empty the tank as far as you dare, ride to reserve and then another 40km.  I wish I had.  Remove the rear plastics – which requires you to remove a few bolts and an exceedingly awkward clip on the right hand side of the bike.  The fuel filler cap (if stock) has to come out as well.  Remove the long bolt that mounts the main tank/sub-frame – it runs through the lower exhaust mounting.  Lift your tank up, being careful not to yank any cables / fuel lines and fix it there. 

Once you have space (I recommend removing the mudguard, makes life a lot easier) put a tray in from the right hand side of the bike to catch any fuel and loosen the bolts (marked in red) that hold the fuel pump wiring in place enough to let any fuel run slowly out.  Give the bike a wiggle, stand it fully upright, get as much fuel out as you can.  Now it’s drilling time.

Use an 8mm wood/plastic drill bit and line it up at the drill point, marked below in red.  Don’t be too scared, it’s marked with a circle and even has a little indent so you can feel that you have the bit in the right place.  If you drill in the wrong place and have to buy a new tank you deserve it, frankly.  Please comment below if you do that!

At this point I have to stress – be bloody careful.  There may still be fuel in there – there was for me.  You’ll be lying on your back drilling up into a fuel tank.  If it comes out the wrong way it could get in your eyes.  Hospital visit.  No chomping cigars while doing this.  Definite hospital visit.  Be aware that even a little electric drill generates sparks in it’s electric motor.  Yep, that’s a hospital visit too.  Ideally you should use a hand drill, but I didn’t have one, so I ran my little battery drill slowly, drilled carefully and covered it with a plastic “shield” with a hole in it.  I’m not in hospital, so it worked.

Installing the petcock is fairly obvious, but don’t forget the O ring which comes in the box.  I also used a little blue thread locker, even though it’s not recommended on anything which screws into the tank.  My thinking here was that I’d rather ruin the tank when removing the petcock than have it vibrate itself loose and trigger an explosion.  Priorities.  Point the petcock to the right side of the bike, see photo above, there’s no room if you point it at the exhaust – plus that thing gets supremely hot.  I would recommend fitting the fuel line to the petcock, with clip, prior to installing it to the tank – it’s a small space and I can’t imagine fitting the line and clip would be easy in that small a gap.

At this point I recommend putting a few litres of fuel in the tank with the petcock closed, just to check for leaks at the petcock or the wiring panel.  I put the words “petcock closed” in bold for a good reason.  Tim left it open.  Tim got fuel all over the garage floor.  Don’t be like Tim.  Yes, you are reading a guide written by a moron.

Now all you have to do is run the fuel pipe up to the tank and plumb it in however takes your fancy.  That’s all covered in the Rade instructions.
Unquote
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Offline w@nted

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #2 on: April 03, 2018, 11:13:11 am »
Great, will look at this option when installing my the Rade tank in a couple of weeks. When drilling into the tank, should I be worried about plastic shavings going into the tank?
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Offline Amsterdam

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #3 on: April 03, 2018, 04:10:22 pm »
I have read about folks discussing this.  The one chap had put some vaseline on the dril bit to reduce the issue.  Not sure how well this will work .  I would not be too stressed about that as the filter at the pump will easily block the bigger chaff.
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Offline w@nted

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #4 on: April 11, 2018, 12:15:11 pm »
Have you attempted this method yourself Amsterdam?
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Offline Amsterdam

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #5 on: April 11, 2018, 04:19:33 pm »
No but I actually might do it sometime in the next few months.  It is a very neat solution.
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Offline w@nted

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2018, 08:25:18 am »
No but I actually might do it sometime in the next few months.  It is a very neat solution.

I am in the same boat, receiving my tank within the next few days.

Will definitely look at this option, seems better than the original Rade method.

Do you know if the bike's warrantee is affected by installing this kit (Tank and air filter)?
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Offline Amsterdam

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2018, 12:02:00 pm »
I don't know but I know that Eddy2Race (Husqvarna's only dealer) in Cape Town installs the kits.  But the only substantial change is the change in air filter and as long as you maintain that correctly I can't see why it would affect warranties in any way.
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Offline BuRP

Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #8 on: April 23, 2018, 03:25:48 pm »
Jissus A'dam,

I owe you a beer, hell, beers!
I'm on the point of receiving, hence installing, a RADE Tank.... and quite frankly I disliked their way of making this 2nd connection from the moment I saw it on the net!
Drilling required of the sleeve around the pump inside the tank, bitofarude method in my opinion - sure, it obviously works, but then in addition finding a place/space for their fuel tap is also something I have been thinking about already.
I've not read all of the above yet, neither have I checked if my tank has the inserts your pic shows ... but I will!

Cheers!  :thumleft:
Sparta MC50, 46 other 50cc's, Garelli Tiger Cross, Jawa 250, Kreidler RS (plated), Kawasaki S1 250/3, S2 350/3, H1 500/3, H2 750/3, Suzuki GT380/3 - 10 year gap - KDX200, BMW 1150GS Adventure, Honda CBR600RR, Honda XR650R 2007 & 2003, Honda CRF230, Yamaha BWS100, BMW F800GS Adventure, Husqvarna 701 Enduro 2018, KTM 790 Adv R 2019, KTM 2020 XC-W TPI 300 Six Days, KTM 2014 500 EXC-W Six Days, KTM 790 Adv R Rally 2020
 

Offline BuRP

Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #9 on: April 23, 2018, 03:36:33 pm »
...  You’ll be lying on your back drilling up into a fuel tank.  If it comes out the wrong way it could get in your eyes.  Hospital visit.  No chomping cigars while doing this.  Definite hospital visit.
.
... I put the words “petcock closed” in bold for a good reason.  Tim left it open.  Tim got fuel all over the garage floor.  Don’t be like Tim.


Uhh, I read it six times A'dam, but, eh, perhaps I'm slow - I didn't see the word "cigarette" and I smoke but don't do cigars, so I presume I'll be safe then?


 :P ;D

I hope my tank has the insterts, a no-brainer then!
Great post anyway  :thumleft:
« Last Edit: April 23, 2018, 03:37:11 pm by BuRP »
Sparta MC50, 46 other 50cc's, Garelli Tiger Cross, Jawa 250, Kreidler RS (plated), Kawasaki S1 250/3, S2 350/3, H1 500/3, H2 750/3, Suzuki GT380/3 - 10 year gap - KDX200, BMW 1150GS Adventure, Honda CBR600RR, Honda XR650R 2007 & 2003, Honda CRF230, Yamaha BWS100, BMW F800GS Adventure, Husqvarna 701 Enduro 2018, KTM 790 Adv R 2019, KTM 2020 XC-W TPI 300 Six Days, KTM 2014 500 EXC-W Six Days, KTM 790 Adv R Rally 2020
 

Offline BuRP

Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #10 on: April 23, 2018, 07:42:45 pm »
Been thinking....... sorry, won't make it a habit: but, if you can install the fuel-line this way it is waaaayyyyyy more preferable than the Rade-way!
Perhaps not for the obvious reasons but let me explain.

The Rade-way means removing the fuel-pump from the (lowest point of the) tank, after which one has to remove a tube-like surround in which this pump sits.
This thing is like a deep cup, the pump sits inside it on the bottom of the tank, and it takes the fuel from here.
This means that the fuel around it, when the tank runs empty, is not used - which makes sense!
This fuel is literally the last at the bottom, and of course water & debris will collect here.... so, this tubelike shroud makes a lot of sense of having!

However, the Rade-tank instructions tell one to drill 2 holes in it - really?
For what purpose?
To let water & rubbish into the pump, that's what, never mind the last cupful of fuel one gains this way!
My advice to anyone is, irrespective of how you install it, to not drill these holes!

However, it actually gets worse.
Rade supplies a rectangular body which will extend the pump & shroud deeper, lower down!
Sure, this body has a nipple which is used to connect the auxiliary tank to, but the pump sits deeper in the tank... hence the area around the shroud will collect more of the rubbish, in fact the open top will do so too.
So, drilling holes in it is a patently bad idea, I actually don't get it why they tell people to do this!

Mind, I've not yet seen this shroud myself, but if it really seals the pump (but for the open top of course) then drilling a hole at the bottom is a bad idea.
If you're really anal to get the last fuel out of an empty tank then drill the holes halfway the shroud's height/length, but not at the bottom like Rade instructs one to do!


Edit: does this make the Rade tank shite? Nope, good idea actually, I even will install one - just the drilling of those holes is a bit stupid advice.
« Last Edit: April 23, 2018, 09:47:54 pm by BuRP »
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Offline zebra - Flying Brick

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #11 on: April 24, 2018, 08:07:55 am »
following this thread, communicating with Rade (away on a Rally at present), will report back when I get more info.


Sorry: Hellas Rally is 20-27 MAY, and not 20-27 April, yet I saw a video of him talking about going away, so will write him today...



Cheers
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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #12 on: April 24, 2018, 08:48:07 am »
Have written to RADE, awaiting feedback...


thanks
Chris & Team
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Offline Amsterdam

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #13 on: April 24, 2018, 02:15:27 pm »
The stock solution that Rade offers is not an issue in my view.  I just posted this as a nice alternative. 

When I installed the Rade tank I did it as per the instructions.  Drilling the two holes in the shroud did not seem like a big deal to me.  The block at the bottom of the tank to connect the additional fuel line is actually a well proven method that has been used on the 690s fitted with Safari tanks and the Rally Raid tanks amongst others.  It is possible that you allow some settled dirt to now get to the pump but the way the bike bounces around when used as intended I very much doubt that there is much dirt settling as opposed to being suspended in the fuel.
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Offline w@nted

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #14 on: April 25, 2018, 08:58:03 am »
I have also not read about anyone experiencing issues after drilling as per the normal instructions. I do however like the idea of mounting it straight to the tank as above.

I installed the Rade twin air filter over the weekend. Much louder than the stock airbox. I will get the Akrapovic performance map loaded during 1000km service and will report if there is any difference in performance.
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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #15 on: May 28, 2018, 04:14:50 pm »
So I installed my Rade tank last weekend as per the normal Rade instructions... Drilled the fuel pump housing, which seemed less risky than drilling into the main tank. Very easy installation. (Except my garage still smells like petrol  :imaposer:)

I filled both tanks and ride with the aux tank fuel tank tap open, so both tanks drain at the same time. Will report back on the new improved fuel range...  :thumleft:


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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #16 on: May 29, 2018, 09:52:15 am »
...will listen out for your feedback, thanks for taking the time to update us all!
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Offline BuRP

Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #17 on: June 11, 2018, 08:06:12 pm »
Well now, I am wrong!
I removed the entire tank/subframe assembly, not too difficult actually.
After emptying the tank I drilled the 8mm hole, next mounted that tiny KTM fuel tap, it's off a small 50cc bike.
Next I installed the Rade aluminium housing which I had milled off by about 11mm (to remove the hole for the fuel nipple), in the hope to create a small water trap cavity.
Then I discovered that this will not work.... because KTM/Husq has already drilled 2 small holes in the pump shroud, see picture!
Tsk tsk tsk KTM, an ideal opportunity to keep a water trap but no, you didn't.
Anyway, I did install the small block anyway because I had it ready, so now my tank's capacity is 13.0001 liters  :P
As you can see it doesn't really protrude into the wheel well, so all good.
I also mounted a 10micron filter with a rather large surface area, should last a while.

« Last Edit: June 11, 2018, 08:06:38 pm by BuRP »
Sparta MC50, 46 other 50cc's, Garelli Tiger Cross, Jawa 250, Kreidler RS (plated), Kawasaki S1 250/3, S2 350/3, H1 500/3, H2 750/3, Suzuki GT380/3 - 10 year gap - KDX200, BMW 1150GS Adventure, Honda CBR600RR, Honda XR650R 2007 & 2003, Honda CRF230, Yamaha BWS100, BMW F800GS Adventure, Husqvarna 701 Enduro 2018, KTM 790 Adv R 2019, KTM 2020 XC-W TPI 300 Six Days, KTM 2014 500 EXC-W Six Days, KTM 790 Adv R Rally 2020
 

Offline w@nted

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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #18 on: August 01, 2018, 10:19:06 am »
Well now, I am wrong!
I removed the entire tank/subframe assembly, not too difficult actually.
After emptying the tank I drilled the 8mm hole, next mounted that tiny KTM fuel tap, it's off a small 50cc bike.
Next I installed the Rade aluminium housing which I had milled off by about 11mm (to remove the hole for the fuel nipple), in the hope to create a small water trap cavity.
Then I discovered that this will not work.... because KTM/Husq has already drilled 2 small holes in the pump shroud, see picture!
Tsk tsk tsk KTM, an ideal opportunity to keep a water trap but no, you didn't.
Anyway, I did install the small block anyway because I had it ready, so now my tank's capacity is 13.0001 liters  :P
As you can see it doesn't really protrude into the wheel well, so all good.
I also mounted a 10micron filter with a rather large surface area, should last a while.

BUrp

Do you have to remove the tank to clean/replace the 10 micron filter? I am looking for recommendations on fuel socks/filters to protect the (very) delicate fuel pump. I have read of 3 fuel pump failures in one week...
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Re: Alternative 2nd tank connection point on 701/690
« Reply #19 on: August 01, 2018, 10:20:23 am »
Chris from flying brick is trying to source guglatech in tank filters, but no stock currently. Other option is to carry a spare fuel pump on long trips. :xxbah:
Bikes: Honda CB1, Yamaha XT660R, BMW F800GS, BMW R1200GS DOHC, BMW R1200GS LC Trophy edition, Husqvarna 701 Enduro