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Author Topic: LuckyStriker's R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide  (Read 9061 times)

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Offline LuckyStriker

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LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #20 on: August 14, 2006, 12:35:22 pm »
Quote from: "shark_za"
Could it be that the bars are made soft for a purpose?
Maybe a rigid bar will rip things out the engine like the skid plate does.

Crumple zones, like cars.

I have been led to believe the same thing. Apparently too rigid bars will damage the mounting points on the engine.
You have to keep in mind that BMW reduced the engine's weight while increasing the bore. It probably means a thinner engine casing and you really don't want to attach impact prone objects to it unless they can bend real easy.
 

Offline Leo

LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #21 on: August 14, 2006, 01:08:02 pm »
LS Excellent work.

You should consider a job in the journalism industry.....

..........best report to date!  :wink:
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Offline BlouVark

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« Reply #22 on: August 14, 2006, 01:14:37 pm »
Regarding the wheel base being shorter, according to the BM site.

1200GS
1519mm - wheel base
62.9 - head angle

1200GSA
1511mm
63.8
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but the stain will remain.
 

Online KiLRoy

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LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #23 on: August 14, 2006, 02:01:37 pm »
Quote
You should consider a job in the journalism industry.....


And end a perfectly good career as a pimp.... :lol: ?

Well written Cyril and enjoy the GSA - keep us posted on your opinion/feedback

H
 

Offline funacide

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« Reply #24 on: August 14, 2006, 02:03:40 pm »
Excellent report LS, I have read just about every report in the Bike Mags on the new 1200Adv, not one of them comes close to yours. Thanks for all the effort.....
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Offline bud500

LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #25 on: August 14, 2006, 02:10:34 pm »
If I may venture a question..... Would it be possible to post the corresponding pricing for the bling?

How did you experience those GSA footpegs?
May the bridges I burn light the way...
 

Offline LuckyStriker

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« Reply #26 on: August 14, 2006, 02:17:56 pm »
Quote from: "bud500"
If I may venture a question..... Would it be possible to post the corresponding pricing for the bling?

How did you experience those GSA footpegs?

bud
I still have all the receipts and will post the prices and info tomorrow (unfortunately the receipts are at home)

those pegs are nice and wide. Easy to stand on for long periods at a time. Just don't try to get on them barefoot...unless you grew up on a farm or have a job as a coal walking fakir (no, that's not a swearword :roll: )
 

Offline LuckyStriker

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« Reply #27 on: August 15, 2006, 10:23:53 am »
Here are some of the prices as promised: (I'm thinking of naming my bike "the money pit")

BMW R1200GS Adventure
R 117,500.00
www.bmw-motorrad.co.za

Stebel Nautilus Air Horn
US$ 37.90 including installation kit and shipping costs
http://www.adventurersworkshop.com
shipping time: 12 calendar days

K&N Air Filter (not fitted to bike)
R 634.74
Purchased over the counter at BMW dealer

Scott Steering Damper
R 5,500.00 including shipping
http://www.shadow-line.co.za/
shipping time: 5 calendar days

RAM mount for video
R 495.90 including shipping
www.africanstuff.co.za
shipping time: 3 calendar days

Touratech Oil Cooler Protection
R 386.84
Purchased over the counter at BMW dealer

Touratech Hand protector Spoilers
R 218.86
Purchased over counter at BMW dealer

Akrapovic Silencer
R 6,200.00
Purchased over counter at BMW dealer

HP2 Engine protectors
R 2,034.00
Purchased over counter at BMW dealer

Touratech handlebar risers
R 336.36
www.touratech.de
shipping time: 13 calendar days

I can't remember how much I paid for the Zega panniers (although they were pretty expensive, they were much less than the BMW ones)
 

Offline bud500

LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #28 on: August 15, 2006, 11:03:24 am »
Thanks LS.

I was suprised at how big a difference the wider pegs make compared to the 12GS. Those on the GSA are of a lot better quality than the aftermarket pegs you can buy from BMW for about R485.00.

Oh and thanks for the extensive detailed info, much appreciated.
May the bridges I burn light the way...
 

Offline Tin-Tin

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« Reply #29 on: August 15, 2006, 11:40:40 am »
Fu&%it that is nice, good report and details thanx.
Tin-Tin on adventure
 

Offline Grootseun

LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #30 on: August 15, 2006, 01:49:20 pm »
Knap gedaan ou maat,

You should conidering "Inne Bellvillein Customs" if your current employments ever dries up or sumthin.

Great  reprort  and good write-up...
 

Offline Maverick

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« Reply #31 on: August 15, 2006, 02:34:28 pm »
Brilliant write up and comments dude, you sure did not hold back on the bling :D

Being a cheapskate myself would of just put some stickers on the bike and ride it 8)
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Offline Butch

LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #32 on: August 15, 2006, 05:11:01 pm »
Words fail me (which is something you clearly don't suffer from)...

 :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:  :notworthy:
Live and let live.
 

Offline tsiklonaut

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LuckyStriker?s R1200GS Adventure Report and Pimp Guide
« Reply #33 on: August 15, 2006, 11:08:41 pm »
Ahh LS, you lucky sod!  :) Guess how many of us feel jelous now?! :shock:

Good report man as sayed here before me many times. Does the Akra has lambda sensor too btw??? Or it has nothing? How much low end power you lost installing it?

Enjoy-the-bike, would be a proper final recommendation tho ;)
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Offline LuckyStriker

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« Reply #34 on: August 16, 2006, 08:44:11 am »
thank you all for the compliments - my chest is all aglow :D

tsiklonaut - I only installed a silencer. The header pipes are still factory standard. As far as I know Akrapovic do not yet make a full system for the 1200GS/A

Full systems are available from Remus and Yoshimura. Both those systems have holes where you can screw in the lambda probes. I don't know about the Yoshi but Remus gives you the option to order either a CAT or CAT-free header pipe.

My Akrapovic claims to add 2bhp to 3bhp to the performance (not a lot).
A full, CAT-free system will probably add more power but one should apparently not expect vast differences. That engine is as finely tuned as it's ever going to get...
 

Offline Scalpel

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« Reply #35 on: August 16, 2006, 01:31:58 pm »
LS thanks for this stunning report on the ADV. You have helped me make up my mind. Just after I read yor report I got hold of a demo ADV! Now I need to sell my DAKAR! It is in the Sell?swop segment of the forum! Please guys if there is anybody that can help me selling it I would appreciate it a lot.
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Offline Adventurer

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« Reply #36 on: August 16, 2006, 09:03:18 pm »
LS, the cure to you hooter problem is this: buy yourself a good quality 4 or 5 pin automotive relay, Bosch is the best, re-fit your airhorn hooter wherever you had it before.
Connect the original hooter wires to pin 85 and pin 86 (one each) of the relay.
Run a power wire from the positive terminal of your battery, fused with a 10A fuse as close to the battery as possible to pin 30 of the relay. (This protects the wire as well as the hooter unit being close to the battery)
Connect pin 87 to the positive point of the airhorn/hooter.
Connect the negative point of the airhorn/hooter to ground/chassis or negative point of the battery.
The reason you hear a ?click? when you fitted it the first time is the airhorn has higher power consumption than the original hooter, the diagnostics ?sees? this a short circuit situation and shuts the hooter circuit.
If this still does not work, take the original hooter to you nearest electronics shop, have them measure the resistance across the hooter and they will supply you with a resistor of similar value. Make sure they give you a ?heat sink? type resistor.
Fit this resistor across pins 85 and pin 86 of the relay, this way you simulate the hooter load. I don?t know if the canbus system will sense a ?no load? situation, if it does, this resistor will be ?seen? as the hooter and allow current to flow. If the canbus system does not ?see? an open circuit, the resistor will not be needed.
You should now have a SERIOUS hooter system, let us know what it sounds like and if the system works. I need to upgrade my 1150 hooter, the original one sucks.
This electrical modification can in no way affect the bike?s wiring or the canbus system, you might hear otherwise from BMW, but this is usually because they don?t know better and just say ?it cannot work?. I use this method when fitting HID headlights to the new range of BMW?s and it works 100%.
If you can keep your head in the midst of all this confusion, you don't understand the situation!
 

Offline corkscrew

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« Reply #37 on: August 16, 2006, 09:23:57 pm »
Howzit LS, got a few questions for you:

I test rode the adventure the other day (fitted with knoblies) and was quite suprised with the way the front end felt at speed (around 120 - 140km/h), front end felt very very light and if the bars where moved around lightly its started to wobble around quite alarmingly, as if it was about to tank slap you! (I'm used to the Dakar)
Does yours handle the same way? The dealership told me its because of the knoblies fitted that the bike feels like that at speed.
The standard 1200GS I test rode afterwards (with standard tyres) felt a lot more stable, well at least to me...
I'm quite suprised you reported the opposite thing (eventhough I see yours also has knoblies on). Having owned both models could you elaborate on this a bit, I'm wandering how the two would compare with the same tyres fitted.
 

Offline SGB

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« Reply #38 on: August 17, 2006, 07:51:05 am »
Hello LS,  Great report and I can see that you had (and still having) fun.  The BMW bias is forgiven.....  Enjoy the ride
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Offline funacide

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« Reply #39 on: August 17, 2006, 08:49:48 am »
Quote from: "corkscrew"
Howzit LS, got a few questions for you:

I test rode the adventure the other day (fitted with knoblies) and was quite suprised with the way the front end felt at speed (around 120 - 140km/h), front end felt very very light and if the bars where moved around lightly its started to wobble around quite alarmingly, as if it was about to tank slap you! (I'm used to the Dakar)
Does yours handle the same way? The dealership told me its because of the knoblies fitted that the bike feels like that at speed.
The standard 1200GS I test rode afterwards (with standard tyres) felt a lot more stable, well at least to me...
I'm quite suprised you reported the opposite thing (eventhough I see yours also has knoblies on). Having owned both models could you elaborate on this a bit, I'm wandering how the two would compare with the same tyres fitted.


Corkscrew

Having recently fitted the TCK80 Knobblies to my 1200 GS (standard) previously having Anakees on, I experience the same thing between 120k and 140km. The tyres were fitted professionally and balanced by BMW. It felt a bit wierd in the beginning, but after you realise you can just push through it, there is no issue.
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