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Author Topic: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!  (Read 33146 times)

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Offline eSKaPe

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #40 on: September 25, 2008, 04:04:20 pm »
Geez you had some great experiences there...
 

Offline mrg46

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #41 on: September 26, 2008, 06:50:24 am »
Lekker report so far, and great pictures. Can't wait for more
 

Offline Frohan Visser

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #42 on: September 26, 2008, 09:18:00 am »
Tanzania

We were sad to leave Malawi and then entered Tanzania via this really bad tar road. Everywhere along the road were tea plantations.






That evening we came to Mbeya, a town with a bad reputation and because of that we decided to sleep in a hotel rather than to camp, so all 3 of us cramped into a 2 bedroom room. The bikes were also relatively safe downstairs, parked behind the hotel walls. I used the time to do some washing and repacked my panniers.




We were heading Eastwards towards Dar Es Salaam. It was a beautiful tar road but we were cautious. We were told about bandits that hijack the trucks on this road, they jump out of the trees while the trucks are driving slowly on the up hills and then they start off loading the trucks while the driver is still unknown about it.






We drove past a few Zebras, Giraffe and also a lone hippo and the scenery were still amazing. We already did 6750 kilometers since we left Stellenbosch. That night we slept at the Katimbo Inn, a small Motel and because it was Christos birthday, we dranked a few beers to celebrate. That next night we slept in the bush, 30 km past the town of  Morogoro.





We arrive in Dar Es Salaam at about 10 in the morning, it was Saturday and the banks were already close so we exchanged money with some locals that played a trick on us and on arriving back at the bikes we discovered that they swapped the envelope of money with one that only had a few notes in and the other were paper, so very angry and disappointed we went back for them, but with no luck. I decided that I will never try to exchange money on the black market again, I lost about 30 US $  with this incident.

We camped at a old hotel next to the sea , there were just one broken toilet in the old building, but it was on the beach and every time we were in need of coconuts, I just climbed a palm tree and harvest some coconuts.



Xander then decided to go to Zanzibar for 3 days, but me and Christo didnt had the same amount of money as Xander so we stayed on the main land. We went to the local markets and did some washing in the mean time. I also changed my front tyre around. We bought some fish at the beach and made a nice Sunday lunch, braaid fish, tomatoes, coconut and some drinks.







The next day Henry with his 600cc Tenere drove in the camp, he flew his bike over from London  to Nairobi and are now slowly touring down towards South Africa, so we had lots of info to give him. Me and Christo tried to get our visas for Sudan and Ethiopia, but with no luck, both embassies closed down, so we had to try again in Nairobi.



The next day Xander joined us again and couldnt stop talking about how nice it was on Zanzibar. We started driving towards Kenia and Mombassa and slept another night just in the bush, far away from the road.



The nature were beautiful and I asked Xander to take a picture from me and my bike. I put my nicest shirt on for this photo shoot.












Tanga, a small town still in Tanzania close to the border.




The Main road between Tanzania and Kenia, later the road changed to tar again.







Kenia  and some politics between the 3 travelers is next!!
« Last Edit: November 24, 2010, 09:22:42 am by Frohan Visser »
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Offline Ama ride ride

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #43 on: September 26, 2008, 09:52:54 am »
Lekker read.  :thumleft:
Gewoontlik n@@i ek reguit aan op fyndraai.

 

Offline Nardus

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #44 on: September 26, 2008, 03:52:16 pm »
We arrive in Dar Es Salaam at about 10 in the morning, it was Saturday and the banks were already close so we exchanged money with some locals that played a trick on us and on arriving back at the bikes we discovered that they swapped the envelope of money with one that only had a few notes in and the other were paper, so very angry and disappointed we went back for them, but with no luck. I decided that I will never try to exchange money on the black market again, I lost about 30 US $  with this incident.

Ha ha ha !!!!!! I was caught myself in Dar during a trip there in 1998 and I must have heard of the same at least 10 times since. At least I had a Swahili newspaper in my envelope.

I am waiting for the rest ..........
Let the snake slide and the lizzard slither and LET IT BE !
 

Offline Whethefakawe

Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #45 on: September 26, 2008, 04:16:51 pm »
Excellent adventure and photos FV. You obviously know a thing or two about photography, eh?  More please.

I laugh when I hear others'  rip-off stories, having been there myself. When I first moved to Kenya in 96 I got naaied at a petrol station, a common scam in Kenya then.  The oke didn't zero the pump after the previous vehicle, and I didn't notice.  I forget how much he got me for, but my friends laughed at me for days over that one.

Only happened once  :laughing4:

You been using dogsh*t for toothpaste, Mullet?
 

Offline Frohan Visser

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #46 on: September 30, 2008, 08:34:42 am »
Kenia

We got to Tiwi beach in Kenia and camped at Twiga lodge under some very high palm trees next to the beach. That evening we spoiled ourselves and went to eat at the restaurant and each of us had a big steak. We didnt pitched the tents and just slept next to the bikes, but later in the night I crept underneath my bike after a few coconuts fell  very close next to me.





We crossed the ferry at Mombassa and wasnt allowed to take pictures at the ferry, so I took this skelm shot as we drove off. This ferry trip was only about 15 minutes long but it take them about 45 minutes or longer to try and get as most people and vehicles as possible onto the ferry. It was fascinating to see the load of the ferry once it started to off load on the other side.



A visit to Mombassa must include a visit to the very well known Fort Jesus. Me  standing for a photo outside Fort Jesus.






There were very nice baskets and stuff for sale on the streets and I walked around in the Old Town of Mombassa and took a few pictures of the beautiful buildings along some very narrow streets.








We drove more north to Malindi and camped at a very nice spot on the beach. I serviced my bike the next day, new spark plugs, checked the valves, new oil filter and  oil, so now the DR was ready for some more Africa roads again. Here at Malindi were very interesting local people and the one night we braaid fish and had a good few beers together with these interesting locals. I gave the one local girl a lift to the market and she then helped us to buy some food and some woven clothes at a very good price. The locals add a tremendous amount to their original price for all their goods as soon as they see u are a foreigner, so sometimes it pays off to take a local with when u go shopping.







We started driving early and planned to go al the way to Nairobi, as soon as we left the coast the nature changed to more dry surroundings. Some places on that tar road to Nairobi the tar were corrugated and had a very high  middelmannetjie so one couldnt really relax on the bike.





We drove into Nairobi after 620km in the saddle and headed for Mama Roches guesthouse. It belongs to an old lady that changed her house into a back packers lodge with a few extra rooms at the back of the house. We pitched our tents outside in the garden. This was a central place for all travelers in Africa to stop over and get some rest and info for their next destinations and we met some very nice Israelis here. There were 2 overland trucks parked that were getting serviced,  some Germans with XTs and the rest were back packers.

What actually started in Mombassa is that Xander and Christo were talking and deciding to rather turn West after Nairobi and go to Dakar, because I didnt had as much money as them, I sticked to my original plan to go up to Egypt and then to Europe. So as we came to Nairobi the moods  and emotions were high and I realized that they are going to split from me, I was obviously scared to go on by myself but I didnt really had any choice and the atmosphere between us got very uncomfortable.


So the next 5 days in Nairobi I used to get my visas for Ethiopia and Eritrea, I had to buy some tools and a gas stove as well. Until now we were sharing those kind of things. I also only then put my new back tyre on the bike, the old one was a cheap Kenda, but I got 27 000 km with that tyre. A German guy, Stephan, with a 800 cc BMW asked if he could get the tyre and I would later found out that he then still drove all the way to Windhoek with the tyre!!!! In the meanwhile Xander and Christo went for 2 days into the Masai-Mara park and I started getting used to be by myself. They came back the Friday afternoon and I also just then got al my visas and then the next morning I left in pouring rain by myself. It wasnt a nice feeling but very soon I got used to it.

In the meantime Braams father deposit some money in his account and he bought a small camera again and decided to go on with his trip. He left Harare and unknown to us he was all the time just about 4 days behind us. So after we stayed a week in Nairobi, he actually caught up with us and that afternoon after I left from Nairobi, he drove into the camp, so then they were 3 again. I obviously only heard about it months later, I thought it was only Xander and Christo heading to Dakar.

Now alone on the road, I had more time to take pictures, these are two 3 meter tall wooden statues in front of a little coffee shop on the way to the equator.



At the equator. I also stopped to take a picture of mount Kenia, but before I could get the camera out the clouds moved in and the snow capped peak were covered again.








Until now the trip was actually still boring, the roads were in bad condition but ride able, it was still possible to communicate with the people and it was still possible to buy food, but the real trip for me started now in all its essence and I would find that out very soon!!!!!!!!!!






The tar road stopped at Isiolo and I was advised to drive in a convoy from there until Marsabit. There were a lot of bandits that robbed and murdered people along the road, so I joined a very big convoy of about 15 trucks with army soldiers on each of these trucks. I was driving right at the back and in the dust of the whole convoy I didnt see a big rock in the middle of the dirt road and hit it with my front wheel. The tube burst and within a few seconds I went off the road and landed into a thorn tree, the bike wasnt damage except the flat front tyre, but I had about 25 thorns in my arms and legs. I had to use pliers to pull them out and later all of those thorn holes got infected. In the meanwhile the convoy never even noticed that I wasnt with them anymore and just drove on. After fixing the flat I drove the next 150 km with rebels every now and then standing next to the road with their AK 47s, it was a scary sight. That night I slept at a missionary station that was kind of a safe haven to me. They had very little water available and I was only allowed to fill up my 5 liter water container.

This day started bad, I woke up to see that my rear tyre was flat again, I patched it there at the missionary station and hit the road. This was one of the worst roads on the whole continent, full of rocks, loose rocks and high  middelmannetjies and thorns thats ready to attack my tyres. After just 10km I got a flat on the rear again, after fixing it I realize that the front was also flat again, so I took it off and patched it also, not even 30km further I got another flat on the front, it was a slow puncture so I decided to carry on but after I had to stop 3 times in 4 km to pump the tyre, I stopped finally to patch it. I was now wasted!!!





What happened is that these big trucks break some thorns off the trees while driving past and they constantly punctured my tyres. The other problem was that because of the intense heat my patch solution didnt cure in this tremendous heat and the patches came off just after a few minutes.


The little stick on the left of my front tyre I used to dig a hole in the ground, deep enough so my front tyre was in the air to be able to take it off, sometimes when the bike was full of fuel I couldnt let it lie on its side to change the tyres, so it was a mission without a center stand. On the left of my helmet u can see my standard bicycle pump that I bought in Nairobi. After changing the tyres a few times my hands were bleeding of cutting it every time and I also got a big blister in the center of my hand from pumping, I was not in a good shape.




I bought some patches and solution from a passing truck driver but within the next 20km I got another 2 flats. I was tired and gatvol now!! I had 5 liter of water, but by now it was empty and I was thirsty and the sun was giving me a beating from above. I sat beside the bike and waited for the next truck to drive past. After about an hour the next truck came past and after some negotiating a price they were willing to give me and the bike a lift to Marsabit. It was really difficult to get the bike right on top of the loaded truck, but the worse was still to come.

Now I was alone on top of the truck, trying to prevent my bike from falling off while the driver was driving at one hell of a speed on this real shitty road. I was sitting on top of some boxes with bags of sugar inside and I discovered a box that was full of sweats. So while trying to prevent the bike from falling of the truck, I also helped myself with some sweats, they kept the hunger pains away until Marsabit. We came at 20h20 that night at Marsabit and I laughed when I saw myself in the mirror, I was completely covered in fine dust from sitting on top of the truck and only my eyes and teeth were white. Luckily there were enough helpers in Marsabit to help off load the bike, the bike got a few scratches but that was not an issue for me at his moment any more.

That night I slept like a rock. The next morning I bought some local patches and solution and was on the road again.

A volcanic crater next to the road and some more of the bad road, some places the middel mannetjie was so high that it scratched and touched my foot pegs, so one needed a lot of concentration to keep the bike upright!!!!!!! After about 20km I got another flat tyre on the front again, I quickly patched it and did another 50km before I stopped there next to the road for the night.






This was 3 oclock in the morning, already busy repairing my front tyre again. I stopped counting at 12 flat tyres for the past 2 days, so just imagine how my hands looked after taking the tyres off the rim all those times. I had one tyre leaver and two long screw drivers that had to do the job.



I drove on until Turbi where I was told to drive in convoy with an British over lander truck that had some army soldiers with them, so I put some of my luggage with them on the truck. It was a slow drive and I had to wait for the truck numerous times. We came to Moyale at the border and camped on the lawn in front of the police station. Once again I had to repair my front tyre. The over landers invited me for supper and I really enjoyed the nice chicken dish they made. That night a tremendous electric storm hit us and the rain was falling down in buckets.



Beautiful Ethiopia  with big mountain passes and friendly people is coming next.
« Last Edit: November 24, 2010, 09:31:18 am by Frohan Visser »
1986 Suzuki DR 600, Confiscated in Egypt
1992 Suzuki DR 800, sold
1997 Suzuki DR 650, sold
2005 KTM 640 Adv, sold
201.. KTM 690 R in the next 2 years
 

Offline Hidalgo

Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #47 on: September 30, 2008, 09:10:41 am »
Eish man !!

Fixing all those flats must have been a pain in the ass....

Great report  :thumleft:

Keep it coming.

Thx
H
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Offline MrBig

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #48 on: September 30, 2008, 09:29:14 am »
Really enjoying these old reports!
Thanks for taking the time to do a write-up - cant WAIT for the next bit.

btw Xander looks very familiar.
was he in Majuba at some point?
"I know you think you understand what I said, but what you don't understand is what I said is not what I mean."
 

Offline Biesie

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #49 on: September 30, 2008, 12:12:17 pm »
Legendary stuff !!!  8) 8)
 

Offline Stofstreep

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #50 on: September 30, 2008, 03:30:15 pm »
Wow! I will follow this thread for sure!

BTW awesome photos!! :thumleft:
« Last Edit: September 30, 2008, 03:31:41 pm by Stofstreep »
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Offline Fidel

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #51 on: September 30, 2008, 03:52:23 pm »
Ya matter, baaie mooi photos. Jys nogal alraait met daai camera.


Net een ding, as jy daai lang hare in Eendekuil gehaad het, sou ek met jou in jou tent geslaap het.  ;)


How fortunate we are to live in such a massive, diverse and beauty continent. Well done Frohan for exploring it Bru.
 

Offline Fire Dragon

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #52 on: September 30, 2008, 05:06:08 pm »
Thanks for the RR and for the pics. Great to see bikes I can relate to. Looking forward to the rest of the report.
 

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #53 on: September 30, 2008, 09:48:12 pm »
Laat hom rol... :thumleft: Naais!!!
 

Offline Woestersous

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #54 on: September 30, 2008, 10:52:24 pm »
Ya matter, baaie mooi photos. Jys nogal alraait met daai camera.


Net een ding, as jy daai lang hare in Eendekuil gehaad het, sou ek met jou in jou tent geslaap het.  ;)


How fortunate we are to live in such a massive, diverse and beauty continent. Well done Frohan for exploring it Bru.

Fidel, jy moet Frohan sien met lang hare en geskeerde bene :laughing4:Dan sal jy eers die tent wil deel. 

Frohan, lyk my die Switserse girl het jou goeie ingels geleer :biggrin:
 

Offline mrg46

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #55 on: October 01, 2008, 04:04:07 am »
Awesome episode that Frohan. Jiss but that Kenya road is just as kak these days but thanks to technology I didn't sukkel with punchas like you did. You're a pioneer like Nardus.

Keep it coming

 

Offline Ratel

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #56 on: October 01, 2008, 07:42:19 am »
I can't see the pictures :scratch:
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Offline Frohan Visser

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #57 on: October 01, 2008, 07:52:44 am »
BigEd
Looks to me u are watching my moves like Big Brother...hi...ha..."Jy gaan nerens voor jou RR nie klaar is nie...ek watch jou... "

Thanks to everyones replies, I am glad I can share a little bit of my old anventure to all of u............Yes Mark, talking about technology, in the old days I didn't know about heavy duty tubes and stuff like liners for the tyres....I promise u I would have put them in.........those flats made me " moedeloos"....I think Nardus had even more flat tyres than me!!!!!!!!

Woestersous
It sounds to me u know me better than I tought "my broer"......Yes, Fidel would have liked the smooth legs and long hair....ha...ha....!!

1986 Suzuki DR 600, Confiscated in Egypt
1992 Suzuki DR 800, sold
1997 Suzuki DR 650, sold
2005 KTM 640 Adv, sold
201.. KTM 690 R in the next 2 years
 

Offline Frohan Visser

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #58 on: October 01, 2008, 07:55:59 am »
Shit Ratel
I am sorry, I put the pictures on Flickr, it took me a shit lot of work to scan them and then download it there, If someone can give advise then I can try to put it somewhere else as well............
1986 Suzuki DR 600, Confiscated in Egypt
1992 Suzuki DR 800, sold
1997 Suzuki DR 650, sold
2005 KTM 640 Adv, sold
201.. KTM 690 R in the next 2 years
 

BigEd

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Re: Stellenbosch to Egyptian nightmare!!
« Reply #59 on: October 01, 2008, 08:47:23 am »
BigEd
Looks to me u are watching my moves like Big Brother...hi...ha..."Jy gaan nerens voor jou RR nie klaar is nie...ek watch jou... "

Damn right you're being watched... :peepwall:

Good report so far. Solo in them days - WTF were you thinking :eek:

Keep it coming...