In this space of time we only saw one chap on a bicycle and he just sped past us in a nervous hurry. About an hour later and with much surprise our 650’s spluttered back to life. I couldn’t believe it! I just loved this bike of mine even more...it just never let me down!
It was a relief to be mobile once again. Roxy and Kingsley led the way with me following close behind. I couldn’t believe it when we had a few river crossings to make. I was now so angry with Google Maps and myself for not following my gut feeling but we were now committed and just had to continue. Thank goodness this vehicle was a 4x4 as we needed it to get us out of a few problematic areas.


After about another 1.5 hours we popped out onto a tar road...such a relief. We found some fuel and headed off to Dombe where we turned left onto a good gravel road that would take us back onto the EN1. We needed to get to Vilankulos, and still had one hell of a long way to go. I was now concerned about Roxy getting tired as we had all had a very bad night’s sleep. There was still about another 300 km to go. We had frequent smoke breaks along the way as the road was in a shocking state up until Inhassoro. On a bike the going was faster so they often had to wait for me to catch up as the potholes were a nightmare in the darkness, making travelling slow and stressful.
It was about 9.30 pm when we reached the busy turn off to Vilankulos and as expected Kingsley missed the turn off, which Roxy was aware of, so she promptly followed her dad to warn him. I immediately stopped at the turn off, put on my hazards as there was so much traffic around and waited for their return. Roxy thought she was chasing her father but when she caught up it wasn’t him. Somehow she had lost him in the mess of taillights and the New Years Eve busyness. Fortunately she had the sense to continue for another 7 km or so till she reached a fuel station and there she found a bewildered Dad who had lost both of us. After about 20 minutes they both arrived back at the turn off. These two were now so exhausted and battled with the last 19 kms to town. Fortunately, being New Years Eve, Baobab Backpackers was in full swing and very much awake. We were fortunate to get something to eat before heading off to pitch our tents shortly before midnight. It was such a relief to end this last day of 2018.
We spent a day and another night enjoying the wonderful atmosphere and beach of this great place and recovering.









Our new buddy


Thinking about the long haul home!
02 January 2019 We set of for Maputo, which was another long haul of 715 km for Roxy and Kingsley, and required an early start. These bikes work hard when travelling at 110km/hour so frequent stops were needed and fortunately the roads were good. It took us ages to get through Xai Xai and cross over the bridge but late that afternoon we worked our way to the our accommodation which was close to the beach front of Maputo. Again Google Maps was taking us on all the narrow back roads of Maputo. These two were amazing and managed to keep up their spirits.
03 January 2019We were planning on crossing over the new bridge that had recently been completed. In order to get to the Kosi Bay border at 8 am., when it opened, we needed to depart at 6 am. The wind was howling and it was raining once again. It felt good to be warm and dry inside the bakkie as we worked our way along the Maputo promenade but I felt so sorry for the two in front of me as the rain lashed out at them and the wind blowing off the ocean buffeted them continuously.

If you look carefully you can see the new bridge in the distance.Finding the entrance to the new bridge, built by the Chinese and officially opened on 10 November 2018, proved to be a bit tricky as there was no signage leading up to it. We battled our way around asking directions and eventually found the start where we saw the first and only sign indicating the new bridge connecting Maputo, on the northern bank to Katemba, on the southern bank. It is the longest suspension bridge on the African continent, with the main span measuring 680m but in total 3 km long. With the new road leading south towards Kosi Bay in KwaZulu-Natal, travelling time is reduced a great deal, now taking only 90 minutes as opposed to 6 hours via Swaziland. It was a great feeling being able to drive over this amazing engineering feat.





There are two tolls on this wonderful stretch of road which totals about R40 in fees as well as a fuel station. We were treated to some lovely sightings of giraffe as we drove through the Maputo Elephant Game Reserve, but sadly no ellies. Definitely a recommended route.


It rained intermittently up to the border and on arrival here there was just rain and chaos as all the holiday makers from the various Pontes gathered to depart Mozambique. Vehicles parked anywhere and everywhere, people running in all directions from vehicles to get a good position in the queue, hoodies over heads, brollies covering several bodies dodging in and out of stationary vehicles and excitement oozing all over as we all got soaked standing in outside queues.
We were now a bit concerned about our paperwork as we no longer had a trailer but I think the rain and chaos was in our favour and at the customs office there was a bit of mayhem as rain soaked people crowed round declaring good. While Kingsley and Roxy waited in the rain I handed over all the paperwork and was asked if all was in order which I answered ‘all was fine’ and rushed into the rain again and crossed through the boom. No one questioned the motorbike hanging out of the canopy and they waved us through.
The two on motorbikes now had another 530 km ride to get home. The roads were extremely busy and slow until we reached the N2. Once again rain lashed out occasionally but they continued on taking regular breaks. With the rain came the cold and a few times Kingsley wanted to just dump the bikes somewhere safe and get into the vehicle but somehow they bravely persevered. As we passed Durban the mist tumbled in making it even more stressful. We stuck close together and looked after each other as best we could in the busy traffic. Heading up Town Hill and Hilton was like driving through pea soup, slow going and very stressful. It was awesome arriving back at home all in one piece albeit cold, wet and miserable. I only have admiration for these two who rode back all that distance in such awful weather conditions just to get our precious bikes back safely.
Thank you, Kingsley and Roxy, for the wonderful opportunity to experience such an awesome holiday. Roxy, you brought so much pleasure and fun into this trip and I shall cherish every moment spent with you.
“We‘ve been through some things together,
with trunks of memories still to come.
We found things to do in stormy weather.
Long may you run.”
Neil Young
Now that is the end of one amazing adventure!!
