KTM 690 SM - Helping out a friend

[Mpandla]

FYI, this is what I did with the booster plug. Let me know if I'm missing anything here...

Situated inside the airbox, I have basically just put this guy in series with the air temp sensor.

Thats basically it yes
Doubt it will solve the issue though

[Archangel]

FYI, this is what I did with the booster plug. Let me know if I'm missing anything here...

Situated inside the airbox, I have basically just put this guy in series with the air temp sensor.

Thats basically it yes
Doubt it will solve the issue though

You're right, it was always a long shot! At this moment it's trial and error, so it was worth the relatively little effort.

[Mpandla]

You're right, it was always a long shot! At this moment it's trial and error, so it was worth the relatively little effort.

.

It would probably sort out low rev throttle action but only once its running normally again.

Would still be interesting what effect those pipes have on the engine.

Does it still not want to idle properly?

[Archangel]

It mostly idle's fine. And therein lies the problem... 

Even now with the other exhaust, idles fine when it starts. Mostly idles fine when I stop at traffic lights or when I grab the clutch at speed. It's only a "now and then" intermittent thing that it suddenly starts spluttering and then dies. I also can't identify any triggers like quick throttle, constant throttle, bike getting to a certain temp.



I'm tempted to strap the mutlimeter to the dash and hook it up to the battery/regulator to see what the voltages do. With the helmet cam, perhaps I can even capture voltage spikes or dips on video for reference purposes.

[Archangel]

Some clips of what it does...

[Manic]

On a few of my bikes, and Im sure my KTM's did the same.

If you free wheel in neutral towards a robot, the moment you stop, the revs drops a bit. Its as if the motor knows when the wheels are turning or not. It Drops the revs a bit when standing still, but when you start moving and pull the clutch in, the revs will be a bit higher idling, while wheels are turning.

Maybe yours, when you stop, it drops the revs too low and stalls?

[Archangel]

The video doesn't show, because its not so easy to hear and capture, but it also sometimes happens when I'm cruising at constant throttle. At times it just misses one or two firing cycles, other times complete stall. The momentum is usually enough to run-start the bike though.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[Archangel]

And just like that, I'm stranded. Video to follow...

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

[sidetrack]

Some clips of what it does...

Must be irritating as hell !

[Archangel]

As the news spread, jokes started coming through thick and fast. 

[Archangel]

This morning I fitted the multimeter to the bars, just to figure out what the voltage levels are doing.

[Archangel]

It was quite interesting and I don't know exactly how sensitive the ECU's are, but the voltages are roughly constant at 13.6V when I'm riding with throttle, but once I release the throttle and pull the clutch, the voltage jumps up to around 14.5V. Not sure if you can see it that clearly in the video. Any idea of why this would happen and whether this could be part of the issue?

That said, it should prevent the bike from starting again, like it did this morning.

The video also shows how it just dies while at speed and doesn't want to start again.

[Archangel]

So, thanks to Mpandla for sharing this valuable resource: https://www.aberdeenbikers.co.uk/motorcycle-charging-system-diagnosis-checks/

Now on to testing the main charging function, the voltage output from the Regulator. Test the voltage with the bike running at fast idle, roughly between 2000 and 5000 rpm, to confirm if it is getting the correct amount of charge from the bike. With the Multimeter set to 20v DC place the meter leads across the Battery as before, if all is healthy you should be getting between 13.5-14.5 volts, an old or tired Battery will be around 13.2 – 14.8 volts if undercharging or overcharging but is of no great concern as of yet, but keep a close eye on things over time to make sure it does not deteriorate. Please note that these voltages will fluctuate depending on temperature and revs.

Rev the bike and the voltage should be at least in the 13’s at all engine rpm’s and go no higher than around 14.5v. If you are reading 15v or higher it is bad and means that the R/R is not regulating the extra voltage from the Stator and overcharging the Battery. This will start to boil the fluids inside the Battery dry and will eventually leave you stranded as the battery will not be able to hold a charge.

So looks like those voltages are within spec.

[JustBendIt]

My 2c - maybe it helps your cause and maybe not

I once had a 690 that ran kak - turned out it was sucking in air at the throttle body

check that the rubber boots and clamps are tight and properly sealed from

airbox to throttle body
and
throttle body to intake manifold on engine side

[DUSTRIDERS]

My 2c - maybe it helps your cause and maybe not

I once had a 690 that ran kak - turned out it was sucking in air at the throttle body

check that the rubber boots and clamps are tight and properly sealed from

airbox to throttle body
and
throttle body to intake manifold on engine side

This is a good tip and worth looking into

[geopat]

get it onto the open road and really wring it she should pull hard all the way past the redline the object is to see if the injector can cope with the increased fule load , any bogging at the higher revs will mean you are having injector issues that could be affecting your idle

[Jacobsroodt]

Regarding BoosterPlug installation:
Installation Tips

• On the 690 Enduro and the 690 SMC until 2016, the AIT sensor is located on the underside of the airbox.
• On 2017 and newer models, the AIT sensor is placed in the rear left hand side of the airbox.
• You can reach the sensor from the left hand side of the bike.
It is interesting that the AIT sensor is INSIDE the airbox. It should be outside with a probe sticking into the airbox.
The BoosterPlug temperature probe should be OUTSIDE the airbox, mounted towards the front of the bike to receive ambient air. Often heat soak increases the temp inside the airbox, leading to false readings.

[Archangel]

I think this little white piece is the stock temperature sensor, just sticking to the outside of the air filter holder, but the actual plug connector sits inside the airbox.

[Archangel]

The SM is notably different from the SMC and Enduro, as the tank is infront and the airbox is in the back, opposite to the Enduro and SMC. 

[Rough Rider]

The later 690 have a small inline fuel filter which is not visible as it's inside the hose, perhaps the SM has the same, and this tiny little filter is blocked.

https://www.amazon.com/KTM-LINE-FUEL-FILTER-78141013190/dp/B07G5DJGZY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1544519056&sr=8-1&keywords=78141013190&linkCode=sl1&tag=johnhowe-20&linkId=587b8566d46d0827ee2816ef271c5d04&language=en_US